Homemade wooden doors. Independent production of interior doors. Carpentry lessons. Do-it-yourself entrance wooden door: different technologies
Any home requires protection from the outside world with its views, cold, noise. This task is performed by a metal or wooden front door. The modern market offers various models, but many men can do it themselves without spending a lot of money.
Any room should be equipped with a high-quality entrance door. The photo shows a variant wooden model.
Input wooden door do it yourself - this is the topic of our article. Is it possible to make a quality door structure at home? What is required for this? Is it good for home protection?
Do-it-yourself entrance wooden door: different technologies
It is installed on any building, even utility rooms. It can be a gate, wooden in a bathhouse, a barn and, of course, in a house. Facades from the array are panel or solid (paneled). Each structure is made of solid or prefabricated wood.
Panel doors are the easiest to make with your own hands. Having in stock:
- carpenter's tools;
- several boards of the same size;
- bars;
- nails;
- loops;
- self-tapping screws.
You can assemble the product in a couple of hours. Consider design features shield input model.
Shield front door: different ways of making your own hands
The design is pretty simple. At the heart is a shield assembled from boards of equal width, length, thickness. The blanks must be processed so as not to splinter hands during manufacture and use. If there are boards of different lengths, they must be sawn to the desired size. For the shield, you can use a solid sheet of plywood or chipboard, if the block is further ennobled.
Panel door can be assembled different ways. Dowels and strut - one of the options for attaching the canvas. For assembly, you will need a beam, which will be sawn into parts for strapping: dowels, strut.
- Dowels are horizontal elements to which the shield is attached. There should be two dowels for the top and bottom of the shield.
- The strut is a connecting element that is installed against the dowels diagonally. If the entrance wooden door is made of boards, the brace will ensure that the proportions of the structure are preserved. The canvas will not lead and will not warp.
- If you use only dowels to stiffen the door, they will have to be installed around the perimeter of the shield, which will increase the load on the hinges and the frame.
Choose the right loops. Their range is quite large. Consider the opening method (right or left) and the weight of the canvas. The hinges must be secure.
Prepare the lock and handle for installation on the canvas after assembling the structure. The choice depends on its functionality. She will protect the house, bathhouse, barn, garage.
We prepare the material according to previously made measurements of the entrance opening.
Pick up boards of the same size, lay them out on the floor and connect them into a single sheet with dowels and a strut. We lay out the parts on the floor and proceed to assembly.
- The traditional way to assemble a panel door is to connect the elements with nails and a hammer.
- Modern technologies make it possible to speed up the process and ensure better adhesion of the boards to the bars. Take a drill, screwdriver and wood screws of the right size. Assemble the shield into a single door, checking all the stages with a level and a tape measure.
- In the old days, experienced carpenters assembled the product without nails, making a special gash in the boards for installing dowels in the recess. This technology requires experience in handling locksmith items and a good eye.
Do-it-yourself entrance construction from solid sheets
Panel types of facades also include sets assembled from solid sheets. Let's take plywood as an example.
- We cut sheets and timber according to the dimensions of the opening.
- We do the strapping of dowels around the perimeter.
- By surprise, we fix the strut diagonally of the box.
- We fix the outer sheet of plywood to the frame.
- Putting a heater insulating layer inside the next door.
- We sew the frame with a second sheet of plywood. The whole panel structure is ready.
The facing material can be any building sheet that can give an aesthetic appearance.
A panel door can be assembled without nails if you know how to handle milling tools and have a good eye. A wooden panel door requires treatment with agents against rot and moisture. After all, the tree, in its properties, is influenced environment from which must be protected in order to prolong the service life. You can use colorless varnish or special paint for wood.
After the assembly is finished. You can safely make installation in the opening. (see Installing a wooden door).
Such a door structure is not reliable due to the weakness of the facade. For a thorough protection of the house from strangers, a more modern and durable wooden entrance door is required. It can also be made with your own hands, but with more effort and using a stronger array. Consider a panel door.
DIY paneled door
A paneled door is a more serious design for an entrance opening. It can be installed both in a private house and in an apartment.
Paneled doors are more reliable for the entrance opening. May have different appearance. It consists of a bar around the entire perimeter, called the strapping. It has a special groove on one inner side, a profile for insertion. Inner part canvases are a panel made of solid wood, plywood, thin chipboard. The insert may be;
- whole / composite;
- smooth/convex;
- deaf / with glass.
It is placed in the groove of the box or with the help of a special decorative lining, which is attached with glue (mainly used in construction with glass).
When making a panel door, use quality wood. When producing a paneled facade with your own hands, take a tree of a denser texture so that the door does not lead over time, it does not swell or crack due to temperature changes. Pine is often used as more available material, but it is advisable to take oak, cedar, larch.
Having decided on what it will be, we buy everything you need:
- timber for horizontal and vertical strapping racks;
- insert in accordance with the desired facade pattern;
- accessories;
- fasteners;
- finishing materials and means.
Let's start assembling with our own hands.
Wooden paneled door assembled. The case remains with the processing of wood special formulations, varnish or paint.
Works with glass insert and typesetting panels
Choosing an entrance wooden door with glass or a complex panel pattern, the assembly process can become a little more complicated.
The glass needs an additional frame, which will ensure the stability of the glass in the frame. You can fix it in the old-fashioned way, using glazing beads, small nails or glue. But it is better to use the inner crate, which has a different pattern of openings.
The glass insert requires an additional crate so as not to fall out of the profile with a strong impact. The crate is made of thin bars, fixed to the main harness. Next comes the glass. The edge can be additionally treated with silicone to make it more reliable. From above, the glass is closed with a symmetrical overlay, which is attached to liquid nails or silicone.
A special approach is also necessary for paneled doors, the insert of which is assembled from separate planks into a special lock. Drawing can be varied. It is better to buy such blanks ready-made than to customize each groove and profile on your own. Usually, when assembling, it is necessary to add a central vertical beam into which the inlaid elements of the insert will be inserted.
For the rest, the production of a panel-type wooden entrance door with your own hands is carried out according to the algorithm described above.
Any wooden door can be assembled with your own hands, if you have a great desire and ability to use tools. It is especially worth noting that we manufacture the front door, which should reliably protect against cold and noise. When designing a door block, consider the thickness of the beam so that two panels (external and internal), an insulating layer, and a heater can enter the groove. So you provide the house with a quality door.
If the wooden entrance door is too thin, the canvas must be insulated, to hide the cracks from the penetration of drafts. If there is a desire to preserve the appearance of the door from the outside, we produce insulation from the inside in any convenient way:
- sheathe with leather;
- lay a layer of thermal insulation inside the strapping and cover it with a sheet of plywood or thin chipboard on top (use the tips from our article “How to insulate the front door”).
Having considered several production methods, a do-it-yourself wooden entrance door becomes available to any man who wants to create comfort in the house on his own. Additionally, we recommend watching a video instruction on how to make a wooden entrance door at home.
The door market is huge and natural wood is still a timeless classic. But not every door can be made by a beginner, so further you will find out which canvases an amateur can take on, and which ones are better to order in a workshop. After that, we will analyze in detail how to make a door at home, and in 2 versions and with all the subtleties.
Not every door can be made by a beginner
Making wooden doors yourself is not a problem, but first you need to figure out where you intend to put this canvas and what requirements are imposed on its aesthetic and operational data. After all, you must admit that it is one thing to have a pantry in the backyard and quite another, making doors with your own hands for rooms or your favorite bathhouse.
Massive canvases
IN this case, the term "massive doors" does not refer to either the size or the weight of the door leaf. This means that the doors are completely made of wood and there are no technological voids inside. Plus, such a canvas is assembled from solid boards and does not have any windows or other inserts.
Massive doors belong to an elite product
In stores, the price for such a product is one of the highest and at the same time, it is quite possible to make one-piece massive doors with your own hands for anyone. home master. The strength of such a canvas is the highest, only stronger than massive iron doors and that’s not all, when compared with Chinese goods, it’s better to make a door from a tongue-and-groove board yourself.
Making doors with your own hands from a solid board for a beginner is quite realistic
Of course, you should not immediately take on a solid canvas, shining with exquisite polishing, but we will tell you how to make doors with your own hands, for example, for a bath, in all details, but a little later.
Paneled canvases
Simply put, the term "paneled doors" means prefabricated canvases. That is, first a frame is made, and then panels (inserts) are inserted in certain places of this frame.
In classic paneled canvases, such inserts are made of wood. In interior panel doors, glass can be used instead of wood. The design is light and beautiful, plus it takes less material.
But we do not advise novice masters to take on this type of door. Firstly, in order to properly dock the frame planks and insert panels into them, you need a skill, and secondly, to make such canvases, you need a lot of good stuff, including a professional tool.
Inserts in interior panel doors can be made from different materials
Panel and frame canvases
From the point of view of the layman, panel and frame doors are not much different. It is believed that the panel door consists of a rectangular box, which is sewn up on both sides with solid sheets of fiberboard or plywood. At the same time, its frame sister is made of the same box, only stiffening ribs made of wooden bars are installed inside.
Professionals divide these doors according to other criteria, they distinguish between solid, hollow and small-hollow canvases.
- Solid canvases are the highest quality in this niche. Inside the box is filled with a wooden lath, which at times increases the strength of the structure. True, the quality of the rail is not the highest, often waste goes there. In part, this design resembles a solid array, only a high-quality tongue-and-groove board is used there, and here production waste;
- Small-hollow canvases - such doors differ from solid ones in that the inside of the canvas is filled in fragments. Roughly speaking, when they want to save money or do not have enough wooden slats for continuous filling, these slats are fastened with gaps, through one;
On the left (A) solid, and on the right (B) fine-hollow filling of the canvas
In panel sheets, the technology and existing GOSTs make it possible to use chipboard, MDF, polystyrene and even honeycomb cardboard as a filler in addition to wooden laths.
- Hollow canvases are the simplest and cheapest option for doors. Here, sheets of plywood or fiberboard are simply stuffed on both sides of the box. To make the empty box not so noisy, a filler is mounted there. The cheapest filler option is honeycomb cardboard, and the best is foam.
It is clear that it is easier to make simple doors with your own hands, so we will leave paneled structures alone and focus on massive and panel canvases.
Two options for assembling the door leaf
We decided on the types of structures, but before we make a door with our own hands, let's briefly go through the minimum set of tools and choose wood for our future work of carpentry art.
What tool do you need
There is never a lot of a tool, at the same time it is not always possible to buy a complete set, but since it will not work to make a door without a tool, we will go through the main positions.
Carpentry tools for making doors
- Hacksaw for wood;
- Electric drill;
- Square;
- Roulette;
- A set of screwdrivers or a screwdriver;
- Plane;
- A set of chisels;
- Level;
- Minimum 2 - 3 clamps;
- Metal hammer;
- Mallet (wooden or rubber hammer);
- Pliers;
- Awl;
- Emery or grinder.
If you want to make a really beautiful door with your own hands, you will have to fork out for a quality manual cutter with a conductor (guide frame for the movement of the cutter). Without it, you will not make curly details.
You can't make a beautiful door without a good cutter
Choosing wood
When choosing a tree species, it is advisable to take into account several recommendations. So for a dry room, you can take any wood, but if we make a door with our own hands, it is better to refuse from strong species such as oak or acacia, they are difficult to process.
In damp rooms, for example, in a bath, it is better to take larch, aspen or pine, they are less susceptible to decay. But at the same time, only hardwoods are used for the steam room, with high temperatures from conifers resin will flow. The most affordable option is linden.
For doors, you need the so-called "business forest". Unlike the usual one, there are fewer knots, and most importantly, it is well dried. Humidity of working wood should not exceed 15%.
Some companies offer wood impregnated with protective compounds in autoclaves, it costs a third more expensive, but then you don’t fool around with antiseptics, plus industrial impregnation is much better.
In no case do not buy curved boards, especially a “propeller”, no matter what you are told, it is no longer realistic to align a behaving board.
Option number 1. Solid wood doors
Making a door with your own hands begins with the selection of a board. The fact is that the basis of the canvas is a shield, typed from a tongue-and-groove or simply planed board. If you are making doors to the utility room, then you can take regular board it's cheaper. If the door is in a prominent place, then it is better to buy a grooved board.
The minimum board thickness for doors is 25 mm, but it is inconvenient to work with such a plank, so if you have a single-layer shield, it is better to use a board with a thickness of 40 mm or more.
A shield made of grooved board is an order of magnitude better
First, take the boards and connect them together on a completely flat table. The grooved board is joined according to the tenon-groove principle, so it can be difficult to assemble the shield “dry” the first time. At this stage, your task is to clean up all the burrs so that the shield connects normally.
When the shield is assembled, you number the boards with a pencil and disassemble the structure. Now alternately put carpentry glue into the groove of each plank and reconnect the shield into a single structure. This time, the first plank rests against some kind of hard ledge, and all subsequent boards, when joined, are tightly knocked out with a mallet.
So that the planks of the shield do not disperse during drying, they need to be pulled in 2 - 3 places with clamps from the sides, plus 2 even boards are applied from above and below and are also pulled together with clamps. With this approach, the bars will not lead anywhere.
The shield is pulled together with clamps in 2 - 3 places
After a day, part of the clamps can be removed and the installation of the main retaining ribs can begin. Stiffening ribs are the easiest option for assembling massive doors, you can arrange them as you like, the main thing is that they securely hold the vertical planks of the shield and provide rigidity to the canvas.
The connection will be an order of magnitude stronger if you cut the stiffeners into the canvas mass, but here you have to choose the grooves for the stiffeners. Theoretically, such grooves can be selected with a hacksaw and a chisel, but only a master is capable of this, it is better for an amateur to take a cutter for such work or to refuse to cut the planks altogether, just nail them on top.
But there is one more Alternative option, in which overhead stiffeners are not used. For this case, it is desirable for you to have a cutter. The scheme is approximately as follows: you assemble the shield, after which you cut a groove along the upper and lower ends of the shield and glue a tongue-and-groove board into it. Additionally, the connection is fixed with self-tapping screws.
Decor of massive doors from natural wood This is a separate big topic and it is best disclosed.
Option number 2. Assembling a panel door
If you have figured out how to make the doors yourself from an array, then it will not be difficult for you to assemble panel hollow doors. In this case, the most important thing is to assemble a solid frame. Often, for these purposes, a board with a thickness of 20 mm or more is taken.
The option of joining the corners is shown in the diagram below, but if you don’t want to mess around with cutting grooves, then you can do it easier, take metal furniture corners and select small recesses under them with a chisel, tighten the body with corners. In any case, then all connections will be covered by a shield.
The most affordable box sheathing option is fiberboard or plywood, but the appearance will not be the best. If the appearance of the doors is important to you, then it is better to buy a ready-made laminated MDF board; among professionals, such boards are called door cards.
Usually an MDF card is simply planted on a good wood glue, but if you doubt the strength of the structure, then you can add a few self-tapping screws. Only in this case, the caps of the self-tapping screws will have to be covered somehow, for example, with stickers or plastic chips.
We do not recommend you to make a completely hollow door; there should be several stiffening ribs inside. And so that the empty box does not “ring”, the rest of the space can be filled with foam or mineral wool.
For insulation and sound absorption, it is advisable to fill the panel door with foam plastic or mineral wool
Now you just have to choose and cut the hinges and then install your new doors. You can learn about the intricacies of choosing and inserting hinges, and the door installation technique is shown.
Conclusion
As you can see, making a door with your own hands is not so difficult, in any case, a person who is not afraid of a hacksaw and a hammer can handle such a task. In the video in this article, the masters reveal their subtleties and give recommendations on arranging doors, so study our instructions, watch the video and do not be afraid, you will succeed.
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After erecting the walls of an apartment or private house, the builders move on to the stage of finishing the premises. Already at this stage of construction, it becomes necessary to install an entrance door to protect the interior from negative impacts. external factors. We also need internal interroom first of all for bathrooms.
What kind of doors can you make yourself
Most homeowners prefer to contact specialized organizations, ordering door structures there or purchasing them in hardware stores. However, there are situations when do it yourself.
- Entrance or internal country house and bath.
- Temporary door at the entrance to a private house.
- All in a situation where the budget does not allow you to turn to professionals.
- This is an option for people who know how to handle tools and wood.
The best material for making your own door is wood. Such structures can be frame or solid wood.
Advantages and disadvantages
Durability, environmental friendliness, reliability, good material processing ability - these are positive traits these devices.
TO negative aspects can be attributed - high hygroscopicity, as a result of which swelling of the material and warpage of the frame are possible, as well as the need for constant care to maintain a good presentation.
What kind of wood is used as raw material
Having decided on the independent production of a building element, the master selects the material suitable for a particular design.
- pine is one of the cheapest materials that can be processed well, but can dry out over time;
- alder is also an affordable, light and soft wood, but its ability to dry out must be taken into account;
- birch - it combines density and sufficient hardness with viscosity and a beautiful texture, but this material can also deteriorate over time;
- oak boards - characterized by high strength and durability, requires skills in woodworking;
- beech - it also belongs to hardwoods, and due to its ability to absorb moisture, it requires additional processing;
- larch, walnut and maple are the ideal material for beautiful door, durable and resistant to all influences;
- in the premises of expensive apartments or cottages, mahogany in the form of veneer is used for interior doors.
Door making tool
If you are going to make a door yourself, you need to think about what tool to prepare for this work. There are several options for do-it-yourself products, and each needs its own set of devices. However, there are always necessary sets:
- roulette;
- chisel;
- hacksaw;
- a square and a long rigid ruler;
- drill;
- screwdriver and a set of screwdrivers;
- grinding devices;
- strong sharp knife for woodworking.
- manual circular;
- milling machine with manual control;
- grinder with grinding wheels for wood.
Door in a budget "shield" design
You can make it yourself from boards with a thickness of 50 mm, without using the special skills of a cabinetmaker. Such a door can be attributed to the budget option, among experts it is called - "with dowels". This may be a temporary structure if it is planned to install a more expensive option at this place in the future. At the same time, she is good for country house or baths suburban area. Its advantage is durability and high strength. In this case, pine doors are the cheapest option.
The size of the door is determined by the opening made during construction. A box is installed in it and after that the necessary parameters of the future door structure are measured.
In width and along the upper edge, it should be 10-15 mm smaller size boxes, and along the lower edge, stand 15-20 mm from the threshold.
On a sheet of fiberboard, laid on a flat surface, the outline of the intended door is applied. Special attention must be given to maintaining 90 degrees at all corners of the contour.
For such a design, it is necessary to prepare boards 50 mm thick, pre-treated with a planer. A quarter is selected on both sides of them so that during assembly there are no gaps between the boards.
The width of the boards is calculated in such a way that a multiple number of elements of the same size fit into the selected contour. In this case, the design will look neat.
Having prepared the boards of the required size, it is required to lay them in the contour drawn on the fiberboard sheet, securing the resulting shield with temporary brackets. Then, with the help of an electric saw, cuts are made at the top and bottom of the shield under the dowels prepared in advance. To do this, the saw is set at an angle of 60 degrees. The unnecessary part of the wood is knocked out with a chisel.
The dowels are made from bars and in the standard version have the following dimensions:- on the bottom of the bar on one side 50 mm, on the other 45 mm;
- on the upper part - on one side 35 mm, on the other 30 mm.
Thus, a kind of trapezoidal wedge is obtained in profile.
These dowels are inserted into the prepared grooves. The final fastening is done with wooden spikes or glue.
A brace is installed from the right edge of the top key to the left edge of the bottom key. Previously, oblique cuts are made on it for tight installation to the keys. The slope is fastened with spikes or wood screws.
Budget door made of wood and fiberboard
You can make a simple wooden door from a wood frame, filler and fiberboard. To do this, you will need the following materials.
- 50mm thick board to make the frame.
- Fiberboard sheet - shields for the outer surface are cut out of it.
- The filler of the inner surface - it can be a heater from stone wool, pressed corrugated board or other suitable material.
To begin with, a sheet of fiberboard is laid out on a flat surface. After that, the contours of the door are applied to it, clearly maintaining 90-degree angles.
On this contour, a frame is assembled from a fifty-millimeter board. It is assembled in the "thorn - groove" variant, when a through groove is cut in one board, and a spike in the other, suitable in size to the prepared groove. Another option is to select a quarter at the ends of the boards, followed by laying one inside the other.
When assembling the "thorn - groove" fastening is carried out with the help of glue and wooden round spikes. When assembling "in the overlay" - it is better to fix the boards with wood screws.
A wooden plank is inserted in the middle of the door rectangle to ensure the rigidity of the frame. So that the frame does not change the geometry during the further assembly of the door partition, it is necessary to fix it with temporary brackets.
Two sheets are cut out of fiberboard according to the size of the door contour. One sheet is attached with screws to the prepared frame.
The resulting internal voids are filled with the selected filler. After that, the second sheet is attached to the frame on the other side.
If necessary, fittings are installed in the prepared door - handles and latches.
Such a homemade wooden door is installed at the entrance to the bath and toilet, or as another interior partition.
Paneled door structure
Production is possible in paneled execution. This is a more complicated way. The person who undertakes such work must have certain skills in woodworking.
Paneled doors made of solid pine are the best option when homemade. Pine is a cheaper material, at the same time, a board made from it is easy to process and is durable.
Components of a paneled canvas: frame or strapping, mullions, panels.
- made of wood with your own hands begins with the manufacture of the strapping, which is the frame of the entire structure. Strapping bars come in different thicknesses. If their thickness is about 44 mm, then they are connected using the tongue and groove method into one spike. With a thickness of the frame bars up to 54 mm - pairing in two spikes, and with thicker bars - in three. The fastening of the bars is done on glue using round wooden spikes.
- Centerpieces are bars of the same thickness as the strapping. Their number depends on the design of the canvas and can be from one to three. In some cases, in addition to the transverse mullions, a longitudinal mullion is installed. These elements strengthen the door system and in addition, panels are fixed in them. The mullions are connected to the strapping also in the "thorn - groove" variant.
- Panels are made of solid wood, plywood, and special reinforced glass. You can fasten the panels in the strapping and mullions in different ways - in a quarter without layouts, using self-tapping screws; in a deeper quarter with layouts that hold the panel in the web structure, the layouts are fixed with self-tapping screws; into a blind groove.
This is done due to the fact that the wooden door leaf can absorb moisture or dry out, depending on the season.
If the master has artistic skills, then panels can be made with patterns.
After the final assembly of the paneled door leaf, it must be allowed to “lie down” for several days so that possible errors during assembly can be identified. Then the canvas is painted or decorated in another accessible way.
Attention! When painting, you need to pay attention to one feature. After applying the first coat of paint or varnish, fluff appears on the wooden surface, forming a surface roughness. When the paint dries, a fine-grained sandpaper must be passed over the wooden surface. The door becomes smooth and you can safely apply the second layer.
So, it is quite possible to make a wooden door with your own hands. The main thing is to correctly assess the abilities and capabilities, correctly choose the raw materials, and in the manufacture of the door structure, exercise accuracy and safety precautions. Anyway, wood soft material, and the tool for its processing is used especially sharp.
Often people cannot choose the right door from the available range. Some buy what they have, while others decide to do everything themselves. To make wooden doors with your own hands, you will need some special woodworking equipment, tools and, of course, it is better to have carpentry skills. But still, if everything is not available, then along the way you can improvise and achieve the necessary success. In addition, readers will learn how to choose and dry boards for a future door.
door material
Usually, pine is used for the manufacture of wooden doors, less often - spruce. It is bad to use it for products, because there are a lot of branches in its wood, which make work much more difficult. In addition, the fiber structure is inhomogeneous and often delaminates. For these reasons, the optimal type of wood to make wooden doors with your own hands is pine.
Choosing boards
To make the door beautiful and even, you need to carefully choose the boards. They must be without flaws, not have large branches, and also so that the structure of the fibers itself is even. If blue is visible on the surface, this means that the storage technology was violated and the material began to rot. It is better not to use such wood, because it will begin to rot in the future.
Drying purchased boards
In any case, to be completely sure of the material, it must be dried. Even if it looks ready for use, it is better to play it safe before making wooden doors with your own hands. Each board must be laid on spacers that will not allow the tree to come into contact with each other. This is necessary so that the moisture contained inside the fibers can freely exit. If this is not done, mold will form, which will ruin the material.
The place where the wood will be dried must be well ventilated and, preferably, the temperature should be above 25 °C. This process takes from one to two months.
The tree can be dried even faster by placing it in a special chamber for this. It creates a temperature of not more than 50 ° C. If you make it higher, then the resin can leak out, and it holds the fibers together. In order for a wooden front door made with your own hands to be durable and serve for a long time, you should not rush into this process.
A drying chamber can be made in a garage, a booth of the required size, or a car body. The boards are laid, as in drying on outdoors, alternating them with spacers.
Materials and tools for creating a door
- boards;
- insulation;
- glue - carpentry;
- roulette;
- level;
- plane;
- chisel;
- drill;
- milling cutter;
- self-tapping screws;
- loops;
- hammer;
- nails;
- sandpaper.
A good one with your own hands should qualitatively protect the home not only from intruders, but also from the cold, as well as noise. Therefore, one side is made absolutely even and the fiberboard is pasted over, on which the insulation is then placed.
On the inside, we set the dimensions of the door itself. In addition, you need to decide on the gaps and the lower clearance. When everything is ready, you can cut a rectangle from the fiberboard sheet, which will exactly repeat the shape and size of the door. It is worth paying special attention to marking and cutting corners. They should all be 90°.
So, we cut two boards, making them 5 cm thick and 11 cm wide. We will create wooden doors with our own hands for standard box 200 * 90 cm. In order for the canvas not to rub against the surface, and also to open and close freely, you need to slightly reduce its dimensions. Therefore, the doors will be 192 * 82.
Before designing and assembling the door, check the geometry of the frame so that its corners are clearly 90°. For entrance doors, five panels are most often made. This solution allows them to be made from whole pieces of material. So, you need to trim two boards 192 cm long, and four 72 cm each, this is taking into account 5 cm studs on each side.
It is better to place the panels symmetrically, but if you want to achieve an asymmetric shape, you can fix them as needed, this will not affect the functionality of the structure. It is worth remembering the grooves of 5 cm.
When everything is ready, the wooden front door is assembled with your own hands and everything is checked to see if everything is smooth. At the same time, they make sure that there are no gaps in the grooves, and at the same time, the spike enters freely. If everything is fine, then the door is dismantled, and then assembled back, but with glue. Since this is an entrance door, it will be affected by external environment. For this reason, better design additionally strengthen with dowels. They are 1 cm wide. Then we take a drill of the same diameter, and drill holes for them at the joints. They must go through the spike. After that, the dowels are coated with glue and driven in.
When everything is dry, you can trim the joints and grind off the protruding parts of the dowels so that the surface is absolutely smooth.
Choosing grooves
Now, to make a wooden door with your own hands, you have to work with a cutter. We put on the so-called window cutter. She needs to select the material for half the thickness of the web, to install panels in these grooves. The corners will turn out to be rounded, so they will need to be finalized with a chisel.
Making panels
They are machined from solid parts of wood, they must fit snugly into the grooves without gaps. One side of the panel is made flat, and on the other side you can even cut out a pattern, everything is at the discretion of the master. Further, this part of the door is sanded for easier collection of all the components of the canvas. The panels must be flush with the surface. It is impossible for any part of them to protrude, this can subsequently lead to deformation of the fiberboard sheet, with which the door will be upholstered.
When everything fits perfectly, you can fasten the panels with self-tapping screws. They need to be screwed in at an angle from the side where the fiberboard will be. And, of course, not a single self-tapping screw should come out on the front. Therefore, their size must be carefully selected. Now it remains to nail a sheet of fiberboard and you can cover it with stain or varnish, whoever wants it. It describes in detail the manufacture of wooden doors with your own hands, step by step instructions.
Wooden door installation
Initially, they decide how many hinges the door will be attached to. Then they carefully mark out so that everything fits together, and with the help of self-tapping screws they fix the loops on the canvas and the box. Then to check how it opens and closes. If everything is done correctly, then, being fully open, the door will be in the same position as it was left. If there is the slightest distortion, then it will open or close. Adjusting and installing wooden doors with your own hands can be a painstaking process, but it must be done perfectly, because comfortable living in the house depends on it.
Wooden door insulation
So that external noise does not disturb, and the cold cannot pass through the canvas, it must be insulated. After all, if only a wooden door is covered with a protective layer, it will perform its functions well only in the warm season. And the sounds of the street will pass more. To improve the door, it is worth insulating it.
markup
To insulate a wooden door with your own hands, you need to paste over with foam rubber that half of it, which is covered with fiberboard. This should be done in such a way as to leave one centimeter of space free of insulation around the entire edge of the canvas. On it later we will nail outer material. In the event that, nevertheless, the foam rubber crawled out of the frame, it must be cut with a sharp knife.
Upholstery material can be different, usually leatherette is chosen, less often fabric. To do everything qualitatively, it is better to use the services of an assistant. So the insulation of a wooden door with your own hands will be much faster and, most importantly, better. It is necessary to fix the material with the help of a centimeter wide area, which we did not seal with foam rubber. When the end is fixed, the material is leveled, and then work continues. The tension must be uniform to avoid creases.
When one part is done, go to the one opposite. To do this, one worker pulls the material, and the other fixes it with the same stapler. When the work is done, rollers must be nailed along the perimeter of the canvas, which will prevent cold air and extraneous sounds from outside from entering the dwelling.
We make rollers for the door
From the material with which the door is upholstered, the rollers are rolled up, they should be about a centimeter thick. Then they are nailed along the edges of the door with construction nails.
It is better to buy more upholstery material, because it will stretch over the foam rubber. And also it will be necessary to make rollers from it, so you need to carefully calculate everything.
Now everything related to the question of how to make wooden doors with your own hands, drawings, diagrams and subtleties in work, we have considered. From the images it is easy to understand the whole principle of what parts the canvas consists of. It is not necessary to make a door of the same dimensions as in the drawings, because the openings and the box are different. However, it will be much easier to create your own project based on them.
loops
In order for the door to serve for a long time, you need to choose the appropriate hinges on which it will be attached. There are many types of them, but the most common are hemispherical. Their design is simple, and if necessary, the owner can easily remove the door by lifting it up in the open position.
You can also hang the canvas using hinged loops. They are similar to the first, only the axis in them is unscrewed. Such a door cannot simply be lifted to remove.
Despite the fact that today doors are made from a variety of modern materials, wood products are still the most in demand. Wooden doors are installed between rooms, at the entrance to a house or outbuildings, and they are also mounted on all functional rooms of the bath. The popularity of wooden doors remains unchanged due to the warmth of the material and its environmental friendliness, as well as the amazing natural beauty of textured patterns.
To figure out how to make a door out of boards with your own hands, you need to decide where it will be installed. The fact is that all wooden doors, from the simplest to the elite ones, are made of boards, but the material can have different quality and processing. There are also significant differences in wood species.
In addition, door leafs are divided into types according to their design, and in order to determine which one is more suitable for a particular case, you need to find out what they are.
Types of doors by design
Wooden doors can have several types of structures - these are paneled and massive, panel (hollow and solid) and frame.
massive doors
Massive doors are made of thick tongue-and-groove or planed boards, interconnected in one plane and thus forming a flat surface. The resulting shield should have horizontal or inclined lintels, which will make the structure more rigid.
For massive doors, wood of different species and qualities is used, depending on where they will be installed. For example, if a massive entrance door is being made, then for it you need to choose moderately dried, dense wood High Quality expensive species such as oak, cedar, larch and others. They have a beautiful noble textured pattern and a dense structure. With proper processing, such a door will serve long time without deformation and damage by wood-dangerous insects.
The massive door may have various design- both simple, which is suitable for installation, say, in a steam room of a bath, and complex, having a relief design, suitable for entering a house or apartment.
For bath doors, less expensive wood can be used, such as pine, spruce, linden and others. The only thing to consider when making a door structure for wet rooms- this is its careful processing and water-repellent means.
Massive doors may have their own design features, but one thing remains unchanged - this is the canvas, which should always be made of natural wood.
Paneled door
Paneled wooden doors are also made from boards or timber, but more often its glued version is used, which is made from individual wooden parts- lamellas. They are glued together, creating thick boards or bars.
Glued laminated timber serves as a rigid frame for the web - vertical and transverse elements, as well as mullions, are made from it. Separate elements were fastened earlier with the help of spikes, today dowels are more often used for this. When making a door, you need to take into account the fact that the more crossbars are provided in the canvas, the stronger it will be. A kind of frame is formed from the timber, in which panel panels are installed, made of thinner boards, MDF covered with natural veneer, or plastic imitating the textured pattern of wood. The panel usually has a thickness of ⅓ of the thickness of the glued beam. The panels are fixed in the frames with the help of veneered or natural glazing bead, which gives the appearance of the paneled door aesthetics, smoothing the sharp edges of the frame.
Paneled doors can have a very diverse design and will decorate any apartment. As can be seen from the design diagram, the main part of the door leaf has a small thickness, so they are most often installed in openings between rooms.
The paneled construction is made of durable materials that are not inferior in their durability to solid wood. Sometimes this kind of door has even more high cost than canvas from the array. Pricing is based on what kind of wood the boards and beams are made of, and what kind of veneer the material for the paneled door is covered with.
It should be noted that paneled canvases are often completely made of natural wood, only made according to a similar design scheme.
Panel doors
Panel doors can be called a budget option, as their price is much lower than the two types mentioned above. They are made of cheaper material - it is low quality wood and fiberboard, lined with veneer or laminate. Qualitatively made panel structures have a completely aesthetic appearance, and if their surface is still lined with natural veneer, then sometimes they are very similar to massive doors.
Panel doors are solid, hollow and small-hollow. They differ in that one inner space completely filled with unedged beams fastened together, the second ones consist only of the strapping and outer skin, and the third ones have partial filling.
A typical hollow panel door consists of two transverse - upper and lower, as well as side bars, which are sheathed with fiberboard, clapboard or other materials. Sometimes horizontal and vertical crossbars are installed inside the structure, as they give the structure additional rigidity. Such a door can already be called a frame.
Small-hollow structures of door panels have different fullness of the internal space, and a variety of materials can be used for filling - it can be plywood, MDF boards, cardboard, shavings or foam.
Solid shield doors are those whose filling is a kind of shield made of unedged or edged timber tightly bonded to each other.
Schemes of panel structures of different occupancy are shown in the figures:
Schemes of panel doors - 1 A- solid construction;
B– small-void filling;
Schemes of panel doors - 2 IN– filling voids with veneer;
G And D- small-hollow filling with pieces of plywood or MDF;
Schemes of panel doors - 3 E– filling with shavings;
AND– filling with paper or cardboard honeycombs;
W- a panel partially filled with solid bars with a place provided for installing glass or plywood sheet.
Schemes of panel doors - 4 AND- filling part of the canvas with veneer;
TO And L- filling with plywood or wood-fiber elements;
M– filling with paper or cardboard honeycombs.
The frame of the panel door is veneered various materials on both sides - plastic (laminate, melamine), fibreboard, plywood or veneer.
When facing panels with high-quality plywood with a beautiful textured pattern, they can be additionally decorated with profiled overlays.
- To obtain a high-quality panel door, the lining of the structure is carried out with linden or alder plywood, which is mounted in one or two layers, each of which is 2 ÷ 3 mm. The material made of alder and linden does not deform, which creates a reliable basis for
On top of the glued layer, finishing plywood made of precious wood is fixed. The direction of the fibers of the decorative plywood layer should be perpendicular to the glued material.
Often, instead of plywood, natural veneer from expensive wood species is fixed on the glued layer. Its layers, and there may be 3 or 5 of them, are also laid perpendicular to each other.
- Sometimes a solid shield of glued timber is immediately shaped with veneer, it is applied in 5 ÷ 10 layers to create a total facing of 2 ÷ 4 mm.
The end sides of the shield must be neat and solid, therefore, if the door is made without a frame, then even, well-crafted bars are used for them, which in color and texture will match the finish of the remaining planes.
The end bars are fastened to the shield with dowels and glue.
This type of door, depending on the finish, can be a bathroom or utility rooms, as well as as . However, it should be noted that panel doors have absolutely no protection, so they are not suitable for the entrance role. Most often, they are used for this only as a temporary option.
Now that the designs of all types of doors are known, you can decide which one is suitable for a particular case, and then move on to preparatory work and manufacturing.
Door making tools
In order to make any model of a wooden door, you will definitely need high-quality tools and a stable large workbench table, on which all elements will be assembled into a single canvas.
From the tools you need to prepare:
- Manual milling cutter - this device will help to make the door leaf smooth, cut out any holes and grooves, equalize the right angles of the structure, process the glazing bead and much more. If the goal is to make a door that looks professional, then this tool is indispensable.
- Planer for leveling the end sides of the door.
- Clamps for tightening the glued web.
- Hacksaw.
- Bow and hand saw.
- Chisels of various sizes.
- Rubber and regular hammer.
- Building level.
- Ruler, tape measure, folding rule and pencil.
- Sandpaper and grinder.
- Screwdriver.
Necessary materials
For the manufacture of doors, the following materials will be required:
- Wood - its grade, quantity and dimensions are selected for each door separately. The choice of this material will be discussed below.
- Joiner's glue.
- Self-tapping screws of different lengths.
In addition, for each type of door, it will be necessary to prepare specific materials, which will be mentioned in the sections on the manufacture of certain door panels.
Choice of lumber
It is imperative to know how to choose the right blanks for the canvas, otherwise the finished door may be deformed, and it will not be possible to correct this defect.
The main criteria for choosing wood are as follows:
- The type of wood is chosen at will and financial possibilities.
- For doors, the so-called commercial wood is purchased, since it has a small number of knots, and if they are, then small size and light color.
- In order for the tree to "behave" well during processing and the period of operation of the doors, upon purchase, the material must have a residual moisture content of 12 ÷ 15%. It is recommended to choose material dried in a special drying chamber. The wood treated in this way does not deform and does not dry out, since the chamber creates an optimal temperature effect on its fibers.
- When buying boards, they must be checked for evenness. To do this, they should be laid on a flat surface and try to connect them with each other using groove-thorn locks. The boards must not be bent or bent.
- The thickness of the boards for the door can be 25 ÷ 50 mm, depending on where it will be installed - at the entrance or between rooms.
- Before starting work, it is recommended to walk on all surfaces of the boards. grinder with fine sandpaper. If this device is not available, then you can make a grinding device yourself from an ordinary wooden block by attaching sandpaper to it.
Production of a massive door
Which door model massive board chosen, it will be based on board shield to be properly assembled. Otherwise, the wood can “lead”, and it will be impossible to operate such a structure.
A solid board door is made for installation between rooms or for installation at the entrance to an apartment, house and outbuildings. Naturally, the appearance of the product in different situations will be different.
- For a bath, the most simple design, in which the shield, assembled from boards, is fastened with transverse and diagonal elements.
In this drawing you can see different variants tie-downs:
General view of the door;
I - a door with a Z-shaped strapping;
II - X-shaped harness;
III - double Z-shaped harness;
IV - double X-shaped harness;
V - triple strapping.
For entry into a house or for installation in residential premises, doors must have more aesthetic appearance. Therefore, the assembled shield is processed in a special way to achieve its perfect evenness and smoothness. Further, the markup of the selected relief pattern is applied to the canvas, and then the relief is cut out using a milling cutter.
| Illustration | |
|---|---|
 | For the manufacture of the shield, tongue-and-groove boards are taken, having a tongue-and-groove fastening, or not tongue-and-groove. The thickness of the boards should be at least 25 mm, but if a door is made to enter an apartment or house, then a board is taken even with a thickness of 40 ÷ 60 mm. Doors for outbuildings or baths are most often made from non-grooved boards using one of the straps shown above. For doors installed in residential premises, a grooved high-quality thick board is taken. |
 | Further, the prepared boards are marked and sawn into the desired segments. |
 | The next step from the board is going to the shield. In this case, it is necessary to lay them in such a way that the pattern of annual rings is directed in one direction. If tongue-and-groove boards are taken for manufacturing, then the spike is carefully cut off from the extreme element of the shield, and the end is carefully processed. When assembling the shield, the grooved boards are assembled using and lock connection"groove-thorn", and wood glue. Ungrooved - simply glued together. |
 | Work should be carried out on a large desktop - a workbench, where it is possible to place the door leaf completely and lay it perfectly evenly. |
 | The assembled and glued canvas shield is pressed in several places with clamps and left to dry. |
 | The finished dried shield is processed by a milling cutter to a perfectly smooth state. In this case, the joints between the boards become almost invisible. |
 | It should be noted that, if necessary, a massive door is assembled from two or even three layers of boards, each of which is glued perpendicular to the previous one, and the entire resulting structure is clamped into clamps. The result is a fairly heavyweight powerful shield, having a thickness suitable for installation at the entrance to a house or apartment. Especially often a door is made in this way, on which some relief pattern will later be milled or cut out. |
 | Next, you need to fasten the shield with one of the types of harnesses. The simplest of them are two or three crossbars installed in the upper, middle and lower parts of the canvas. In this case, parts are prepared, the length of which will be equal to the width of the manufactured shield. Their possible shapes and sizes are shown in the figure on the left. This configuration must be observed for easy entry of the cross member into the groove that will be cut for it in the door leaf. |
 | Then, markings are made on the door leaf where the grooves for the crossbars will be cut. Ready-made transverse elements are applied to them and outlined with a simple pencil. In addition, you immediately need to determine and mark the depth to which the groove will be selected in the boards of the shield. The recess can be ⅓ or ½ of the thickness of the board. |
 | According to the marks made on the shield, transverse grooves of the desired shape and size are cut with a milling cutter. The cutter is able to make their surfaces perfectly smooth, so the crossbars will fit into their “nests” quite easily, but very tightly. Additionally, the groove is coated with wood glue. You can also cut the groove manually - first, cuts are made at the right angle, and then the wood is selected with a chisel. |
 | When the grooves are prepared, the crossbars are inserted into them from one side, and then gradually pushed inwards using rubber mallet or mallet. |
 | When assembled, the canvas, reinforced with crossbars, will look something like this. |
 | If you plan to decorate finished shield any relief pattern, then its outline should first be applied to the surface with a pencil using a template. After that on manual frezer cutters of the desired configuration are alternately installed, and the selected pattern is cut out without haste. |
 | The finished canvas should be treated with antiseptic agents. If the door is planned to be installed at the entrance of the house and, therefore, will be influenced by external factors, then in addition to the antiseptic, water-repellent compositions must also be used. When making a door for entering an apartment, it is recommended to cover the wood with flame retardants. |
 | If there is a desire to change the color of the canvas, make the door more “noble” or artificially “age” it, then staining technology can be used for this. Wood stain is covered with wood in one or several layers, achieving the desired darkening of the texture. After the composition has dried, the doors can be covered with several layers of varnish. |
 | On the finished canvas and door frame markings are made to install the selected model of hanging loops. Then the hinges are mounted on the marked places. |
 | The next step is to mark the location of the lock on the canvas and on the door frame, after which it is cut into the structure and the handle is installed. The last step is to hang the door into the doorway and fine-tune it if necessary. |
Panel door manufacturing
It is not difficult to make a shield door yourself. The main thing is to have all the materials at hand, a solid tool, withstand all sizes, keep the edges even and the corners straight. The amount of work will depend on the design of the selected door option. For example, for a solid panel door, as well as for one made of solid board, it is necessary to make a panel, only it can consist of low quality wood and processing. If it is planned to make a finely filled canvas, then the same bars are used, but they are fastened not into a continuous surface, but with gaps.
Based on the description of the design, it can be made in three ways:
- The first one is that first a frame frame (strapping) of the required size is assembled, and then its internal space is filled completely or partially, that is, a solid or finely filled shield is created inside the frame.
- The shield can also be made separately, and then it must be fixed into the frame, and then sheathed with a finishing material.
- The third option is performed in the reverse order, that is, the shield is first made, and then it is sheathed with a frame and cladding.
Each of the methods has its pros and cons, and which one to choose - the master chooses on his own. Below, for example, the first version of the manufacture of the door will be considered.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation to be performed |
|---|---|
 | So, first, a frame (strapping) of the structure is made, which will determine the size of the canvas. For it, it is necessary to prepare a beam with a section of approximately 30 × 120 mm, which is cut to the size of the future canvas (length and width). |
 | Having prepared the timber, you must select the connection that will be used at the corners. There are several types of connections, but the simplest can be called the one that is called "half-tree". The grooves are first marked on the edges of the prepared timber, which must be done very accurately, and then easily selected using the usual hand saw and chisels. The depth of the groove should be equal to half the thickness of the timber. The grooves are smeared with glue and connected at the corners, and they must be controlled using a building corner, since the bars must be perfectly perpendicular. During the connection of the beam, the frame must lie on a hard, even surface, and after joining the corners, it is left to dry on the same table without moving. |
 | After the glue dries on the joints, they must be fastened with dowels, for which they are drilled through holes with a diameter of 8-10 mm. Then, dowels treated with glue are carefully driven into them. |
 | One side of the frame should be lined with one of the selected materials immediately after fastening and drying the frame - it can be plywood, as described above, but more often, fiberboard is chosen for reasons of economy. cut by the right size a sheet of material is laid on a flat table, then a frame is laid on it and its location is marked on the facing material. After that, the frame is removed, and carpentry glue is thickly applied to the marked strips. Then the frame returns to its place and is firmly pressed against the facing material. In this position under pressure, the entire structure should dry well. It should be noted that very often, for the rigidity of the frame structure, one or two crossbars are mounted between its side bars. |
 | Further, the internal space of the frame is filled with one of the selected filler materials - it can be timber, MDF pieces or other woodworking waste mentioned above, or low quality wood. So, in principle, all panel structures are made, and they differ only in the type of filling. All filling elements are glued together, and also glued to bottom sheet facing material and frame bars. Before covering the entire structure with a cladding on top, it is necessary to allow the glue to dry well. |
| This diagram shows a frame-panel construction, and inserts are clearly visible on it, which are usually installed in hollow and small-hollow versions. These elements are designed for rigid insertion of a lock or door handle. |
|
 | While the glue dries, you need to prepare the material for facing the outside. To do this, the perimeter of the frame is measured and one or two sheets of finishing material are cut out according to these dimensions. If you plan to stick two sheets, then ordinary fiberboard is first glued, and on top of it - a laminated sheet or veneered plywood. It is advisable to send the door leaf under a press that you can build yourself, for example, by covering the canvas with plastic wrap, then laying gypsum boards on top of it. |
 | If desired, instead of a laminated sheet for sheathing, you can use natural wood slats, but they will have to be screwed to the frame by drilling “under the sweat” holes to drown the self-tapping screws. Subsequently, these holes are filled with a mixture of sawdust and wood glue. When it dries, the surface should be treated with sandpaper. |
 | Then, all the corner parts and ends of the door leaf need to be processed with a milling cutter - only then the door will look high-quality and neat. A lock or latch handle is cut into the finished door leaf, and the hinges are also fixed. Finally, the door is hung in the door frame. |
It should be noted that frame doors are made in the same way - their inner space is additionally reinforced with a frame made of timber or boards. But, before making a frame door, it is necessary to make accurate calculations and draw up a drawing.
Panel door manufacturing
Paneled doors have the most complex structure, and one cannot do without special carpentry tools and stable skills in working with them in its manufacture, since the elements require special processing.
Panel doors consist of several parts, which can be made of solid boards or glued laminated timber and plywood. Naturally, they differ significantly in price. On sale you can find a lot of different models, but for self-production in the absence of significant experience in carpentry, it is best to choose the simplest option.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation to be performed |
|---|---|
 | The first thing to do when deciding to make a paneled door is to draw up a drawing future design and put on it the dimensions of each of the parts. This drawing shows a door with four panels: a) general view of the door; b) spiked nodal connections of the upper, middle and lower crossbars: 1- racks; 2- upper cross member; 3-lock crossbar; 4- lower cross member; 5- upper mullion; 6 - lower mullion; 7- top panel; 8 - bottom panel; 9 - key; 10 - groove. |
 | To make a frame, you need a bar - it can be made from a massive board or from a glued bar. It will be somewhat more difficult to work with the latter, since due to the presence of glue in its structure, it has greater rigidity. The beam will be needed for vertical elements, crossbars and mullion. The beam must be processed with a milling cutter, making grooves on one of its sides. And sometimes curly cuts are immediately made, which will replace the glazing bead. If you plan to use a glazing bead, then the surfaces around the groove must be left even. |
 | Then, you need to work on the crossbars, cutting out the connecting spikes on both sides and processing all the edges with a router. At the ends of the crossbars, grooves are made for installing panels and mullions in them. The end side of the upper and lower crossbars, which will go to the end of the door, remains flat and solid. |
 | According to the size of the spikes on the crossbars, in the vertical bars, cut-grooves are made for assembling the door. Before you make them, the bars are carefully marked. |
 | For the manufacture of panels that will be installed in the grooves of the crossbars and beams, you will need plywood, board or chipboard. It should be noted that all or several of the panel parts can be replaced with glass. If it is glass that is chosen, then glazing beads will also be required, which will additionally fix the glass panels in the grooves and become a relief frame for them. |
 | The panels can have an absolutely flat plane, and after installation in the cut out grooves, they are framed with a figuratively cut glazing bead. In another case, the panels are processed around the perimeter with a milling cutter, with which you can achieve the desired relief configuration. If the second option is chosen, then for their manufacture plywood or boards are purchased that have a thickness greater than for flat panels - it can be 20 ÷ 25 mm. The edges of the panel are milled so that their thickness is 1 ÷ 2 mm less than the grooves cut in the transverse and vertical bars, since it should freely enter them. |
 | All prepared door elements are treated with antiseptic compounds and dried. |
 | Before assembly, you need to once again check all the elements and, if necessary, additional markup. The assembly of all parts into a single canvas is carried out on the table, in a horizontal position. All spikes, before installation in the grooves, are smeared with wood glue. |
 | The canvas is assembled in the following sequence: - In the grooves of one of vertical bars, according to the markup, all parts are glued - crossbars and panels. - Next, mullions are installed, the spikes of which are also lubricated with glue. - Then, the remaining panels are mounted in the crossbars and mullions. - After that, the remaining vertical beam is glued. |
 | - The framing glazing beads are glued last. If necessary, a rubber mallet or a wooden mallet is used to install the spikes in the grooves. After that, the canvas is carefully lined from all sides, and its corners are checked with a building corner. Then, it is compressed with clamps until it dries. |
 | At the ready door leaf markings are made for the installation of fittings - hinged hinges and a lock or just a door handle. After that, the parts are installed for fitting on the canvas, but they are not fixed - they are mounted only after the final surface finish. |
 | Finishing the door can be done with acrylic lacquers or water-based paints. If necessary, the surface of the door can be made darker, and thus emphasize the beauty of the textured wood pattern. For this, a stain is used, which can be applied in one or more layers. From above, the stained wood can be covered with a colorless varnish or hot wax. When the coating dries, fittings are installed. |
The position of the loops is approximately as shown in this diagram. In addition, the figure shows the dimensions of the gaps that should be observed when installing the leaf in the door frame.
These parameters are, in principle, identical for mounting any type of leaf in a door jamb.
In conclusion, it must be said that it is quite difficult to make a wooden door on your own, without experience in carpentry. Moreover, it is almost impossible to do without special tools that not everyone has in their home “arsenal”. Therefore, if you want the door to look perfect, it is best to order it from a professional master or buy a ready-made version.
Video: a master class on making a paneled door from a solid wood
But if, nevertheless, it is decided to experiment or there is a persistent desire to learn how to make ever-in-demand carpentry, then you must definitely purchase quality tool, both manual and electric (including, of course, a milling cutter with a set of cutters) and learn how to work with it. Only after everything starts to turn out well, you can try to make individual parts. In any case, if there is a desire to do such work, then you need to try your hand.
Learn how to do it yourself from a new article on our portal.
