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Insulation of walls inside the building. Proper insulation of the walls of the house from the inside. Insulation of the walls of a brick house from the inside with mineral wool

External thermal insulation of structures high-rise building- a complex event performed by masters - high-altitude workers for the appropriate payment. Alternative Solution, requiring much lower costs - wall insulation from the inside. How to implement it correctly, read this article.

How to insulate the premises of the apartment

Thermal insulation of buildings is recommended to be performed from the outside, but this option is not always available to residents of high-rise buildings. Warming inside rooms is cheaper, but requires strict adherence to technology, otherwise dampness and mold will form in the thickness of the “pie”.

Important. Secret internal thermal insulation- creation of a barrier on the way of water vapor penetrating into the concrete fence from the room. In such structures, the dew point occurs at the junction of the insulation with the wall, which is why the steam that has fallen into this zone condenses. A small amount of moisture has time to weather out into the street, and a large amount accumulates and serves as a focus for the formation of fungus.

How can you insulate the internal surfaces of walls, floors and ceilings in a brick or panel house:

• mineral wool sold in slabs and rolls;
• polymeric materials based on polystyrene - polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam, often called foam plastic by the name of the brand;
• polyethylene foam coated on one side with a reflective foil layer.

For thermal insulation of roofs, attics and walls of private houses, polyurethane foam is also used, applied through a spray gun using a compressor. This method cannot be called inexpensive; it is rarely used in apartments. Now let's analyze each insulation separately.

Properties of mineral wool

Commercially available mineral wool is made on the basis of glass and basalt fibers. Inside the apartment, it is better to use the second one, since glass wool is intended for outdoor work and insulation of cold roofs.

Basalt or stone wool has the following properties:

• high fire resistance (can withstand temperatures up to 600 ° C);
• good indicators of thermal conductivity - 0.05 W / (m ° C) in the operating mode;
• the material is permeable to water vapor and is able to accumulate moisture;
• The price starts from 27 USD. e. for 1 m³.

Reference. Mineral wool is produced different density: 35-60 kg/m³ in rolls, up to 200 kg/m³ in slabs.

Porous mineral wool products are suitable for external insulation of facades and internal insulation of walls wooden house, in particular, the frame. From the inside of buildings built of brick or reinforced concrete, the material should not be used due to high vapor permeability. In addition, cotton wool contains harmful dust and is inferior to polymers in thermal conductivity.

Polystyrene insulation

Materials in the form of solid boards are made of expanded polystyrene and are divided into 2 groups:

1. Polyfoam with density from 15 to 35 kg/m³.
2. Extruded polystyrene foam (otherwise - penoplex) with a density of 30-50 kg / m³.

It looks like foam in slabs

The difference between them lies in thermal conductivity, vapor permeability and price. Styrofoam is the cheapest insulation (from 32 cu per 1 m³), ​​capable of passing water vapor in small quantities. Penoplex practically does not let vapor through, and in terms of thermal insulation ability it significantly exceeds foam plastic: the thermal conductivity coefficient is 0.043 W / (m ° C) versus 0.053. The price of the "extruder" is decent - from 197 USD. e. per cubic meter.

Note. Both materials are equally combustible and have high hardness, but extruded polystyrene is more durable.

In an apartment where every meter of area counts, it is best to use penoplex and its derivatives for insulation with your own hands, despite the high cost. If the budget is limited, you can take the foam, but carefully perform the vapor barrier, which will be discussed later.

Polyethylene foil products

Foamed polyethylene is produced in the form of thin sheets 6-10 mm thick with a layer of aluminum foil glued on one side. The role of the latter is to reflect infrared heat back into the room.

Reference. The material is often called by the names of popular brands - "Penofol" and "Isolon".

In terms of thermal insulation characteristics, "Penofol" is close to extruded polystyrene foam, and it repels moisture even better. There is no need to talk about the durability of polyethylene, this is a well-known fact. There is only one drawback: the products do not have the required thickness to create a serious obstacle to heat flow.

Polyethylene foam is an excellent addition to other heaters. It can act as a vapor barrier or serve as primary thermal insulation for balconies and loggias. Use "Penofol" as independent material should not be - due to the small thickness of the sheet, the application will not give the expected effect. More information about the choice of thermal insulation is described in the video:

Technology of internal thermal insulation

There are 2 ways of internal insulation of the walls of the apartment:

1. Mounting insulation directly on a leveled surface under plaster or wallpaper.
2. Installation of material on a subsystem of metal profiles for plasterboard lining.

The first method is used in order to save usable volume, when the walls are fairly even, and the finish drywall sheets not planned. The advantage of the second option is the ability to lay a thick layer of heat-insulating material.

Before you insulate a wall in an apartment from the inside, you need to prepare it: remove old wallpaper and falling off plaster, remove protrusions and repair cracks. It is highly recommended to prime the surface with an antibacterial composition for 2 times.

An important point. Direct fastening of the slab insulation to the surface is provided suitable type adhesive mixture. For mineral wool and foam, different compositions are used.

In order not to arrange additional vapor barrier of the "pie", it is better to glue extruded polystyrene foam 40-50 mm thick to the wall. More foam will be needed - 8-10 cm, and material with a density of 35 kg / m³ should be taken and fastened in 2 layers of 40 mm each with overlapping seams. The technology is like this:

Attention! It is not allowed to insulate the wall of the apartment, which is wet or covered with fungus from the inside. The surface must be clean and absolutely dry. How to properly insulate with foam, look at the video:

At the end of the work, you should wait for the complete solidification of the solution for 1-2 days, and then proceed to the further facing of the apartment. If it is planned to install drywall on a frame made of galvanized profiles, then the insulation is done as follows:

Advice. Instead of a conventional film, Penofol can be used as vapor insulation, only the canvases need to be laid end-to-end and glued with aluminum tape. This option is also suitable for a bathroom with high humidity.

If the inside is thermally insulated with foam plastic or foam plastic, use a frame made of wooden beams undesirable. Due to the contact of the polymer material with organic, the latter will begin to rot. The tree is excellent "friends" with mineral wool.

To prevent the wall from freezing from the side of the window in winter, do not forget to insulate the slopes with thin plates of extruded polystyrene foam. How to make the thermal insulation of an apartment under the cladding of the plasterboard, see the next video:

Floor and ceiling insulation

When above the apartment of the last floor is located cold attic or iron concrete floor, it is desirable to insulate the ceiling. Methods of work are similar to the thermal insulation of walls - gluing plates to the surface or installing a subsystem. The material is fixed to the ceiling with dowels in the form of umbrellas or self-tapping screws to the profiles.

Warming of the floors of the first floor is carried out in three ways:

• from the inside under a cement-sand screed;
• the same, on wooden logs;
• outside, from the basement.

Floors can be insulated with high-density foam plastic 35 kg/m³, foam plastic and slab mineral wool 100 kg/m³. In the first case, the material is laid on a concrete floor, covered with a vapor barrier film and poured cement-sand mortar. In the second option, the insulation is laid between the lags, and in the third, it is attached to the slabs from the basement.

Conclusion

If you decide to insulate the apartment with your own hands, then it is better to do this during the repair process. All external fences of the premises should be sheathed with insulation at the same time, and not postpone the thermal insulation of ceilings or floors for the next time. Also pay attention to the efficiency of ventilation: after insulation, the dwelling should not turn into a thermos, water vapor must be removed with a hood.

Structural engineer with over 8 years experience in construction.
Graduated from East Ukrainian National University. Vladimir Dal with a degree in Electronic Industry Equipment in 2011.

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With internal insulation of external walls from the inside of the room, the following features should be considered:

1. Placing insulation on the inner surface of the outer wall creates a very good conditions for the appearance of water vapor condensate under the insulation at the boundary of the wall and insulation. After laying the insulation, the temperature of the wall at this boundary drops below. As a result, water vapor contained in the warm air of the room penetrates through the insulation and condenses on cold surface walls. The humidity of the wall and insulation increases, their heat-insulating properties decrease, fungus and mold appear on the wall decoration. Freezing, water gradually destroys the material of the wall and insulation. The risk of such a development of events, at least in some places of the wall insulated from the inside, is very high.
2. Walls insulated from the inside lose their heat-accumulating properties. The sun through the window, an open window, a change in the temperature of the heater, turning off the air conditioner - all this will lead to a faster change in the temperature in the room than it was before the insulation.
3. Mounting a sufficiently thick layer of insulation on the walls reduces the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe premises.
4. For internal insulation of external walls cold bridges remain through ceilings and adjoining internal walls and partitions.
5. Commonly used heaters are not environmentally friendly. Almost all emit substances harmful to humans, albeit within sanitary norms. Some heaters are flammable or release dangerous gases when exposed to fire.
6. Wall insulation from the inside is usually much cheaper, than the same work outside. The work of insulating the walls from the inside is easy to do with your own hands.

The probability of condensation appearing under the insulation in winter at the border of the insulation and the wall depends on. The thicker the insulation layer inside, the lower the temperature at the boundary of the layers and the higher the likelihood of condensation.

The owners decided to insulate the walls of two apartments in the old house from the outside.
On brick wall a primer was applied, insulation plates (foam plastic or facade mineral wool) were glued and fixed with dowels, thin-layer putty on a fiberglass mesh and facade paint were applied on top of the plates.

Walls are best insulated from the outside. But old houses, apartments, garages, loggias, balconies have to be insulated from the inside for various reasons.

To insulate walls from the inside, in principle, the same methods are used as for insulation from the outside, naturally with some differences.

The insulation layer from the inside of the room must be hermetically sealed (vapor-tight) and, if possible, provide the required resistance to heat transfer with a minimum thickness. Be sure to insulate window and door slopes located in the insulated outer wall. If this is not done, then condensation will appear on the slopes.

Insulation from the inside with polystyrene foam, expanded polystyrene.

On the back side of the insulation boards, we apply glue with cakes with a step of 40 cm.

We glue the plates to the wall with offset seams in adjacent rows

We apply a leveling layer of glue on the glass mesh glued to the insulation

For insulation, foam boards are used, better than increased density PSB-S-25 (35), or extruded polystyrene XPS (foam, etc.). The last insulation has the best characteristics, but its cost is much higher.

Insulation plates are glued to the inner surface of the wall to be insulated. On sale there are special adhesives for gluing expanded polystyrene boards to walls. Or you can use ceramic tile adhesive.

The surface of the wall must be strong and sufficiently even. Old wallpaper and other peeling coatings are removed. To strengthen the top layer and increase adhesion the wall is primed.

Insulation plates after gluing to the wall are recommended to be additionally fixed to the wall with special dish-shaped dowels.

After that, the surface of the insulation is covered with glue and a reinforcing fiberglass mesh with cells 3 - 6 is pressed into the glue layer. mm. Mesh panels are laid with an overlap of at least 10 cm. A leveling layer of glue 2 thick is applied over the mesh. mm. The corners are reinforced with a metal profile.

After the glue has dried, you can stick it on the wall ceramic tiles, or you can simply plaster with a thin layer for painting or wallpapering.

The method described above for warming and finishing walls from the inside is analogous to warming the facade of a house from the outside using the “ wet facade» (light wet method). Read the article, watch the video about it, and you will learn the details of installing insulation boards on the wall, reinforcing with fiberglass and applying plaster.

It should be warned that, unlike the facade, it is impossible to use rigid mineral wool boards for insulation from the inside in the manner described above because of their vapor permeability.

For houses and apartments built according to the old thermal protection standards, the recommended thickness of foam insulation should not be less than 7-8 cm.

Insulation sealing.

Insulation boards made of foam plastic are vapor-tight. With dense laying of plates and careful sealing of their joints, an additional layer of vapor barrier is not required.

Pay special attention to sealing the joints of the insulation layer to the internal walls, ceiling, floor (ceiling), to window and door openings, as well as to the places where pipes pass and where electrical switches and sockets are installed.

It is necessary to carefully close all seams and cracks through which air from the room can enter the border of the wall and insulation.

To seal the joints of insulation boards and joints, sealants are used that form an elastic seam after hardening. Large defects in the insulation are sealed with mounting foam.

At the installation sites of electrical switches and sockets in the insulation boards, round cutouts are made for 20 mm larger than the box diameter.

New installation boxes are inserted into the holes and fixed in the insulation layer with mounting foam, carefully filling and sealing all gaps, especially the junction of the wall and insulation. The box should protrude from the insulation forward, by the thickness of the finishing layer.

Finishing the wall with plasterboard for insulation

There is another finishing option - when instead of fiberglass reinforcement, drywall sheets are immediately glued to the insulation boards.

As a sealant and glue for insulation boards, it is convenient to use polyurethane foam adhesive that has appeared on sale. The composition differs from ordinary polyurethane foam in a lower ability to increase in volume during hardening and quick setting. The adhesive has high adhesion to polystyrene, expanded polystyrene, drywall and wall building materials.

It is convenient to use such glue when using the insulation option with a drywall sticker directly on the insulation. Glue is applied on the back surface of the insulation boards for gluing to the wall, and on the ends of the boards for sealing joints. Then, drywall sheets are glued to the insulation with the same glue.

It is possible to use other adhesives and sealants intended for the applied heaters.

Thermal panels are on sale - drywall sheets with insulation already glued in the factory. Such sheets are simply glued to the insulated wall, applying cakes and a bead of glue along the contour to the surface of the insulation.

Installation, installation of foam boards without glue and dowels

In Finland, a different method of mounting foam boards, expanded polystyrene and plasterboard walls is used, without the use of glue and dish-shaped dowels.

IN Finnish version requirements for strength, evenness and adhesion of the surface of insulated walls are less stringent.

Used for insulation insulation boards 600 x 1200 mm . , in which grooves 50 wide are selected along the long edges of the slab mm. and depth 20-25 mm. Such grooves in the foam are not difficult to make yourself.

Insulation boards attached to the wall during installation using self-tapping screws with washers, dish-shaped dowels 2-3 pcs. for 1 m 2, or two - three "drops" of mounting glue. Reliable fastening to the wall, as in the first option, is not required at this stage.

Lathing boards are inserted into the vertical recesses in the insulation

The insulation is installed so that the grooves in adjacent plates are joined and form vertical channels (recesses) on the surface with a width of 100 mm., depth 20-25 mm. and height from floor to ceiling. The distance between the centers of adjacent recesses is 600 mm.

Insert into vertical channels on the surface of the insulation edged boards section 100 x 20-25 mm. Boards attach through insulation to the bearing wall with a vertical step of 400 mm.

1 - foam insulation boards or extruded polystyrene foam; 2 - sealant, polyurethane foam; 3 - batten board 100x25 mm; 4 - finishing sheet GKL or LSU

For attaching planks to wooden bases use self-tapping screws with a diameter of 4-5 mm. to stone and concrete walls boards are attached with frame (window) dowels, dowel-nails, expansion dowels with a diameter of 6-8 mm. The fastener must go into bearing wall to a depth of 50 mm.

Before installing the board, the joints of the insulation boards are carefully sealed with mounting foam.

Before fixing each board in the technological recess, the joint of the insulation boards under the board is carefully sealed with mounting foam. The board is installed on a non-cured foam.

After fixing all the boards, the joints of the insulation layer with the internal walls, with the floor, with the ceiling, with window and door openings, as well as electrical wiring boxes and pipe passages, are sealed with mounting foam.

The boards installed in the channels of the insulation serve as a crate for attaching drywall (GKL) or glass-magnesite sheets (SML) to them. Besides, sheathing boards securely press and hold the insulation layer on the wall.

Finishing sheets are attached to the boards with self-tapping screws with a vertical pitch of 300 mm., and stepping back from the edge of sheet 15 mm. When mounting on the ceiling, the screws are screwed in more often, in increments of 150 mm.

Scheme of wall insulation with a gap for laying communications: 1 - foam insulation boards or extruded polystyrene foam; 2 - sealant, polyurethane foam; 3 - batten board, double 100x25 mm; 4 - pipe or wire; 5 - finishing sheet GKL or LSU

Sometimes between a layer of insulation and trim sheets leave a gap for laying communications. In this case, thicker bars of the crate are used, for example, with a section of 100x50 mm, or two boards with a section of 100x20-25 are installed in the technological channel at once mm. Due to the presence of a gap, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room in this embodiment decreases more significantly.

In the option of insulation with a gap it is possible to use insulation boards without recess. Insulation plates are fixed on the wall, simply pressing them from above with boards of the crate.

In the manner described above they insulate not only the walls, but also the ceilings of balconies, loggias, as well as apartments on the top floors.

Wall insulation from the inside with foam glass plates

In recent years, the popularity of relatively new insulation- foam glass. In particular, foam glass plates can be used for wall insulation.

To insulate the walls from the inside, foam glass plates coated with fiberglass are produced. Fiberglass provides good adhesion with cement-sand mortar and other building materials.

Foam glass plates are glued to the wall and, if necessary, additionally fixed with dowels. Joints of plates, as well as adjunctions to walls, ceilings, floors and window openings carefully sealed with vapor-tight sealants.

Sheets of drywall are glued onto foam glass slabs or plaster is made on a fiberglass mesh.

Just like foam plastic, foam glass is not afraid of water - it does not get wet, vapor-tight foam glass boards material cuts well.

But, unlike foam, foam glass plates denser, stronger and more durable, the material does not burn, environmentally friendly, resistant to fire, it is not damaged by rodents.

To insulate the walls of houses built according to old standards, it is recommended to use plates with a thickness of at least 100 mm. Foam glass plates are produced in different densities 100 - 600 kg / m 3. The higher the density, the greater the thermal conductivity. To insulate walls from the inside apply heat-insulating plates with a density of 100-150 kg / m 3. For gluing do not use cement-based solutions. Apply liquid nails, polyurethane foam adhesive, gypsum-based adhesive or special adhesive for foam glass.

From plates and blocks of foam glass 100 thick mm. and more put along the insulated wall. Leave a gap of 10 between the wall and the blocks mm. Laying is carried out on glue with a seam thickness of not more than 2 mm. The masonry of the blocks is attached to the transverse internal walls with the help of ties, installing them every 500 mm.

The sealing and finishing of the surface of the insulation from foam glass plates is carried out in the same ways as for foam plastic. For plastering the surface of the plates, ordinary gypsum mortars. Not recommended for use plaster mortars based on cement.

The use of anchors for fixing foam glass plates indoors is not necessary. The surface of the insulation is reinforced with fiberglass mesh and metal corners, in the same way as it is done for polystyrene.

Foam glass plates are quite expensive.

Insulation from the inside with mineral wool insulation

For insulation from the inside of the walls with mineral wool boards, a wall frame is used. The frame can be made of wooden bars or metal U - shaped profiles. The design of the wall frame is similar

Installation of the second layer of insulation boards between the frame posts

Applying sealant to the junction of the vapor barrier to the floor

Adjacency to the floor of the vapor barrier on the sealant is fixed with adhesive tape

The insulation is placed in two layers - between the wall and the frame and between the racks of the frame. Or in one layer - only between the racks of the frame.

For example, for wall insulation with mineral wool insulation with a total layer thickness of 100 mm.(recommended for insulating the walls of old houses) along the insulated wall, a frame is mounted from a U-shaped metal profile (or wooden bars) 50 wide mm. The frame is placed at a distance of 50 mm. from the wall. The space between the wall and the frame is filled with slabs mineral wool insulation 50 thick mm. Then, the plates of the second layer of insulation are placed between the racks of the frame.

For wall insulation, it is better to use mineral wool boards, rather than rolled insulation. The plates are denser, hold their shape better and do not tend to settle on vertical surfaces. The recommended density of mineral wool boards for walls is at least 75 kg / m 3.

Vapor barrier of mineral wool insulation.

On the frame over the insulation must be fixed

The film is fastened to the wooden bars of the frame with staples using a stapler. TO metal profiles film is glued to Double-sided tape or mounting adhesive.

The film is laid with an overlap of panels (at least 100 mm) and overlap on adjacent walls, ceiling and floor (ceiling), window and door openings. The joints of the film panels are placed on the racks of the frame and glued with construction tape.

The places where the film adjoins building structures, pipes, wiring devices are sealed with liquid sealants. The sealant is applied to the junction, the film is pressed against it and the film is fixed from displacement with construction tape, to wooden surfaces nailed with stapler brackets.

It is not recommended to use only adhesive tape for sealing, since gluing rough surfaces with adhesive tape does not provide the required tightness.

Thermal insulation. Insulation. Minvata. Styrofoam. Styrofoam. Penofol. The bars are wooden. Drywall. Plywood. Profile for GKL

The construction market does not stand still. Today in specialized stores you can find a large assortment materials intended for internal wall insulation. How to choose from the whole variety of heat insulators what is best suited for a dwelling, warehouse, office building or premises for other purposes?

Choice the best option, first of all, should be focused on achieving the primary goal - increasing the air temperature in the room during the cold season. But, besides this, it is important to take into account the environmental friendliness of the material, its ability to create an optimal microclimate. After all, if you treat internal insulation without proper preparation, then all the work will only aggravate the situation: the appearance of excessive dampness, the formation of fungi and a layer of mold on the walls and ceiling.

Each of the proposed options for insulation has its own styling features, disadvantages and advantages in use. It is worth dwelling on the issue of choosing a heat insulator in more detail.

Each of the proposed options for insulation has its own styling features.

The parameters that the material used to insulate the apartment from the inside must comply with:

• Thermal conductivity. If the thermal conductivity of the material is high, the insulation layer must be larger, which leads to a decrease in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room and an increase in cost. The ability to retain heat is one of key parameters, which should be guided by when deciding the question, the better to insulate an apartment.
• Strength, resistance to mechanical damage. The use of brittle material reduces the life of the insulation, and also increases the cost and time required to complete the work.
• Environmental friendliness. When insulating a residential apartment, it is advisable to choose a harmless material. After all, wall insulation for an apartment or residential building must be safe, not emit harmful substances.
• Vapor permeability. Taking into account this indicator, you can avoid many problems associated with an increase in humidity in the apartment.
• Biostability. This indicator gives an assessment of the ability of the material to resist the spread and attack of biological organisms such as fungi. In addition to the external manifestation, microorganisms contribute to the destruction of the material and the loss of its original properties.
• Profitability. Naturally, you don’t want to spend extra money on wall insulation in an apartment, but you shouldn’t save too much in this matter either.

Different materials have their own operational features and differ in one way or another. Therefore, before you go to the store, you should familiarize yourself with these characteristics. After all, not only the warmth and comfort in the apartment, but also its suitability for comfortable living depends on the answer to the question, which insulation to choose for the walls.

Styrofoam

Today, this heat-insulating material is the most popular due to several of its advantages:

• proven effectiveness. Styrofoam has low thermal conductivity, which allows it to retain heat well, and low vapor and water permeability, which does not allow liquid to accumulate inside the insulation;
• low cost compared to other materials;
• ease of installation. Styrofoam does not require the installation of additional frames, it is attached by gluing to a pre-plastered surface;
• versatility. This material is suitable for both indoor and outdoor work, it creates a reliable heat-insulating barrier of the ceiling, walls, roof, floor, ceilings between floors.

Plates penoplex

This material has several names: expanded polystyrene, extruded polystyrene and is considered a higher quality "relative" of its fellow polystyrene.

What distinguishes foam from polystyrene:

• fine-cell structure allows you to better retain heat and protect against the penetration of cold;
• increased strength. Under heavy loads, the plates do not deform, but are easily cut with a knife. Due to its strength, this material is good for use both for insulation from the inside in a private house and for outdoor work;
• long service life. The warranty period during which the penoplex will retain its properties is 50 years;
• penoplex is resistant to mold, rodents do not like it. In addition, this material does not emit toxic substances during combustion, as polystyrene, which gives it an additional plus for insulating walls inside the room;
• in order to decide how to insulate the wall of your apartment from the inside, it is useful to pay attention to the cost of penoplex. It is higher than the price of polystyrene, but it is quite justified.

mineral wool

This type of insulation belongs to the category mineral materials and has been used in construction for a long time. Compared to its newer counterparts, it has a number of disadvantages, but due to its effectiveness and low cost, it still remains a fairly popular material.

Features of mineral wool:

• Susceptibility to mechanical damage is a significant disadvantage. By doing internal works It is important to take into account that glass wool fibers scatter easily. This should be taken into account by the master and how to equip. If you decide to work with the material yourself, do not neglect protective equipment: goggles, a respirator, gloves, as well as clothing that protects the body well. In addition, the owners need to completely free the insulated room from furniture or objects that can retain glass wool fibers.
• Price this material rather low, which explains the feasibility of its use.
• Compared to polystyrene, the thermal conductivity of mineral wool is higher, so it retains heat worse.
• Mounting feature. To install glass wool, it is not necessary to plaster the surface of the insulated wall, but you need to mount a frame to fix the material. You also need to provide a layer of vapor barrier. Usually it is a dense film, with which the insulation layer is completely sewn up. It is tightly attached to the floor, frame and ceiling.
• When insulating with glass wool, more is eaten usable area rooms. That is why mineral wool is the answer to the question: how do the walls inside the apartment insulate.

Thanks to continuous development, today it is possible to insulate a wall even with plaster. Plastering technology for the purpose of insulation internal walls thought out to the smallest detail. Nuances that are important to consider when choosing this method of insulation:

• Be sure to apply 3 layers. The first of which is a splash. The liquid solution is applied to the wall with a layer of 5-10 mm. This is done so that the material fills all the gaps. The second layer is 50-60 mm and is applied in three stages. This is the longest process, since each subsequent layer is applied after the previous one dries. Finishing layer most often it is laid with a thickness of 3-5 mm. Its purpose is to completely align the wall and create flat surface. The solution for this layer is sand diluted in water, which is rubbed into the base layer.
• The advantage of this type of insulation is durability and resistance to mechanical damage.
• The disadvantage is the higher cost compared to foam and the greater complexity and duration of the work.
• Plastering retains heat less than foam materials.

polyurethane foam

This type of insulation is a dense foam that is applied directly to the wall by spraying. To work with this material, you do not need to carry out additional training walls, it is enough to mount the frame and fill it with material. Polyurethane foam is one of the latest developments in the construction industry, which boasts many advantages:

• ease of use. Polyurethane foam is quite easy to work with even for beginners. The time required to complete the work is less than when plastering.
• does not require waterproofing, as it does not let water through and does not get wet, like mineral wool.
• low thermal conductivity, as a result - the material retains heat well inside the apartment.
• has good adhesion to any surfaces, so that it forms one whole with the wall. It can even be applied to the ceiling.
• allows you to insulate walls of any configuration, since the application method does not provide for the formation of seams and cracks.

Cork wallpaper is also a novelty in the field of insulation. Consider some aspects:

• environmental friendliness. If you are deciding how best to insulate a room from an environmental point of view, then this material will completely satisfy you;
• saving usable space. Using wallpaper will not take many centimeters from total area rooms or balconies, as they are relatively thin;
• low ability to retain heat. A plus for saving space is a minus when it comes to thermal insulation characteristics. Due to the fact that the layer is quite thin, it is not enough to fully insulate the building;
• attractive decorative finish;
• ease of use will allow you to insulate the apartment yourself, which in turn will save a lot of money.

How to insulate the walls in each case depends on the location of the building to be insulated, the initial budget, the area of ​​​​the apartment, minimum temperatures in the cold season and other characteristics. Getting to know the characteristics insulating materials, you can make your house or apartment warm and cozy without involving qualified workers.

Most of the built panel and brick houses did not provide for the insulation of facades. Concrete and brick have high density and low thermal insulation properties. The result is cold walls and uncomfortable temperatures. There are several ways to insulate from the inside, the main thing is to avoid the appearance of dampness.

Dew point - physics of the phenomenon

A cold wall is not the only drawback of panel or brick houses. Often dampness and accompanying fungus and mold appear on it. The best way struggle - wall insulation from the outside (this is also a requirement of SNiP), but this is not always possible. Therefore, you have to fight cold wall warming it from the inside. But there are pitfalls here.

Even if the cold wall was previously dry, then when it is insulated from the inside, dampness may appear. And the so-called dew point will be to blame.

The dew point is a conditional boundary at which the temperature of water vapor becomes equal to the temperature of condensate formation. It manifests itself, naturally, in the cold season. With proper design of the house (taking into account the characteristics of the region), it is approximately in the middle of the thickness of the facade of a material of uniform density.

If insulation is carried out from the outside, then the dew point shifts in the direction of decreasing density (that is, to the outer surface of the wall). When insulating from the inside, it moves inward, and condensate may appear on the surface of the main wall or inside the insulation.

And in order to assess the scale of possible damage, it is enough to say that as a result of the life of one person, about 4 liters of water evaporate per day (cooking, wet cleaning, personal hygiene, washing, etc.).

Features of cold wall insulation from the inside

There are several ways to prevent condensation on a wall insulated from the inside:

1. Creation of a layer of heat-insulating material with a vapor permeability lower than that of the facade material.
2. Warming with materials with minimal water absorption.
3. Application of ventilated facade technology (taking into account internal placement).

Liquid thermal insulation

polyurethane foam

PPU insulation meets all requirements for vapor barrier, water absorption and the absence of seams. Therefore, even if there is a dew point inside the layer, it will remain “conditional”, since there is no condensation in vapor-tight materials. It turns out from the side of the room a completely sealed heat-insulating layer.

The environmental friendliness of PPU after curing meets the requirements for residential premises. Harmful fumes are present only when the components are mixed during the spraying process - after polymerization, the structure of the material remains stable.

Thermal insulation is applied between the crate and sewn up with moisture-resistant sheet materials(GKL, OSB or plywood). In fact, it is like a large prefabricated sandwich panel.

The disadvantage of this method is the use of special equipment.

liquid ceramics

This is a relatively young heat-insulating material, the action of which is based on the use of two principles - the creation of a thin layer with high resistance to heat transfer and the reflection of heat towards the radiation source.

Of course, a thin heat-insulating layer cannot provide good thermal insulation - this is an auxiliary, but a mandatory factor. Although it gives a fairly high effect - the wall becomes much "warmer" to the touch.

The main task of reducing heat loss is performed by microscopic ceramic spheres that reflect infrared radiation.

According to the manufacturers, the effect of a 1.5 mm layer can be compared with thermal insulation with foam plastic 5 cm thick or mineral wool 6.5 cm.

Application method is the same as for acrylic paint(basic is the same). After polymerization, a dense and durable film is formed on the surface, and latex additives improve the waterproofing properties.

Roll thermal insulation

Penofol

Penofol is a combination of polyethylene foam with aluminum foil. This is a whole series of materials (including single-sided, double-sided, laminated, with an adhesive layer). Moreover, it can be used both in combination with other heat-insulating materials, and independently. By the way, penofol is popular for warming the bath from the inside, and there is much more steam there than in an ordinary residential area.

To insulate a cold wall, penofol is used with one layer of foil (one-sided) and up to 5 mm thick.

In the case, as with liquid ceramics, the effect is achieved due to the low thermal conductivity of foamed polyethylene, as well as its low vapor permeability and high reflective properties of the foil (up to 97%).

But unlike seamless coatings, complete sealing and prevention of cold bridges cannot be achieved. Consequently, condensation may form on the surface of the foil. Even the obligatory sealing of joints with adhesive aluminum foil will still leave gaps inside between adjacent sheets.

The method of combating the formation of condensate on the foil is traditional - a crate with a ventilated gap between the foam and the outer lining.

polyph

Another version of polyethylene foam, but already made in the form of a kind of wallpaper - there is a layer of paper on both sides. Polyfoam and is designed for gluing wallpaper on it.

Of course, its thermal insulation properties are not as high as those of penofol, but in order to make cold wall warm to the touch, they are quite enough.

In most cases, the insignificant thickness of the insulation does not lead to the dew point moving to the inner surface.

The disadvantage of this method is that only a dry wall is insulated.

Insulation with expanded polystyrene

Expanded polystyrene (or extruded polystyrene foam) is glued to a prepared and leveled wall. Both materials have very low water absorption (especially extruded polystyrene foam), so the formation of condensate in the insulation layer is excluded. The main danger is its appearance on the surface of the insulated wall.

Therefore, it is best to glue sheets on special hydrophobic adhesive mixtures applied over the entire surface of the sheets. And to prevent the penetration of water vapor from the side of the room, treat the seams with a sealant (you can also use foam plastic with a step or a tenon-groove connection).

Finishing can be done in two ways:

• mesh reinforcement and plastering;
• sheathing with panels on a supporting frame fixed to the floor, ceiling and adjoining walls (false plasterboard wall).

Warming with mineral wool

Mineral wool does not meet the requirements for vapor permeability and water absorption for insulation from the inside. But it can be used.

The main thing is to provide maximum protection from moist air from the side of the room and the weathering of water vapor from the insulation layer. That is, to make a ventilated facade, but in the reverse order: wall, gap, vapor-permeable membrane, mineral wool, vapor barrier film, decorative cladding indoors.

It is necessary to create a false wall at a distance of 2-3 cm from the main wall. And to weather the water vapor from below and above, make ventilation holes.

You can insulate the apartment with the help of crumpled newspapers and adhesive tape. Or you can arm yourself with a thermal imager, an ultrasonic scanner and nanopaint for this purpose. The homeowner will be able to do some heat-saving work himself, but for some, professionals will be needed. Well, the acceptance of work for quality will be carried out by frosts outside the window. Builders share "winter" secrets with Remont.Divandi readers.

Treatment cold apartment starts with diagnostics. We need to find out why the room is cold, despite the heat of the radiator. The experience of builders says that most often heat leaves the apartment through faulty windows and to the places where windows adjoin the wall. If we are talking about a panel house, one more thing weakness- the corners of the room, formed outer wall. On the first floors, the floor is often the cause of the cold.

Alexey Zykov

director of Binom LLC

A person far from construction cannot always determine the cause of the freezing of the wall. Cracks and cavities inside the walls, broken inter-panel seams, the layman simply will not see the wrong brickwork. Yes, and a specialist may need special equipment - ultrasonic detectors, infrared cameras, etc.

There are companies in Yekaterinburg that provide services for examining premises using a thermal imager for the presence of cold bridges. It costs from 2.5 thousand rubles. for the apartment. You can rent a thermal imager - from 1 thousand rubles. for 1 hour rental. However, even without special equipment, the owner can learn a lot about the thermal circuit of his apartment. The main thing is to understand what to pay attention to.

Alexey Zykov

director of Binom LLC

Check how done window slopes and the windows themselves, whether the sashes are tightly adjacent. If you live on the first floor, check the floor-to-wall connections around the entire perimeter of the apartment. Also check the street walls, especially the sockets in them, as well as the corners of the rooms.

We treat windows for colds

Windows in Yekaterinburg apartments have been actively dressed in plastic for more than 10 years. Nevertheless, as the repairmen notice, 50-60% of the apartments of the townspeople, as before, look at the world with glass in a wooden frame. Wooden windows are very good from an environmental point of view, but over time their heat-shielding characteristics may deteriorate. Timur Abdullaev, director of the Repair Center "Master for an Hour", notes that today he has not lost his relevance grandfather method"piercing" wooden windows with ordinary cotton wool. Especially if the owner of the apartment took care of the insulation of housing after the arrival of winter. When it’s cold outside, it’s more difficult to repair wooden windows with high quality.

Timur Abdullaev

Repair wooden window begins with the search for cold bridges - gaps and cracks. We clean the places where they are found from dirt, if necessary, remove the paint that has tightened the cracks with a spatula. After that, we fill the cracks and gaps with a transparent sealant. It is sold in the form of "pencils". It is better to do this work before the cold weather.

The Repair Center explained that a professional craftsman would insulate one window in about an hour. The cost of work will be 350-700 rubles. Plastic windows provide better protection from the cold than wood. But only if they are in good condition.

Alexander Sukhanov

Incorrect installation of fittings plastic window, especially multiplied by improper operation, can lead to the fact that the window will not close tightly, and attempts to lock it by force will only increase the gap between the frame and the binding up to 3-5 mm. Another problem is the destruction of the rubber seal. All these faults can be corrected by a specialist. Adjusting a plastic window costs about 300 rubles, replacing a seal - from 110 rubles. per running metre. Replacing accessories will cost from 700 to 5000 rubles.

Problems may not be in the window itself, but in the places where it adjoins the walls. As master Alexei Zykov notes, according to construction GOSTs when installing a window, a whole range of special materials and technologies should be used. In practice, many elements are forgotten.

Alexey Zykov

director of Binom LLC

Slopes are often performed by non-specialists who believe that polyurethane foam is a panacea. According to GOST, when installing a window, in addition to thermal insulation, it is necessary to provide waterproofing of the joint from the street side and vapor barrier from the room side. If you forget about these moments, and use foam as a heat insulator, then moisture will penetrate between the wall, frame and foam, the foam will begin to collapse. As a result, we get frozen, bad-smelling, dirty slopes. Price full installation is about 3-4 thousand rubles. for one window. It is clear that window companies with too affordable prices will not be able to do everything according to the rules.

If cold air penetrates into the gaps between the window and the wall, then, as already suggested above, they can be sealed with sealant. But this will only be a temporary solution. When the frosts recede, a full cycle of work on the insulation of slopes should be carried out. It will cost from 10 thousand rubles. for one window. By the way, the cracks formed under the windowsill can also be cured.

Timur Abdullaev

It is necessary to clean the space under the windowsill 3-4 cm down and 4-6 cm deep. Fill the resulting groove with foam. Just before buying it, you need to consult in the store or with a specialist. If it is impossible to use this method, it is permissible to simply seal the gaps with sealant or use sheet and roll insulation that can be glued to the wall under the windowsill.

Door to entrance

The door leading from the apartment to the entrance can also be the cause of a cold snap in the house. To increase the thermal insulation properties of the door, it is often enough to replace the rubber seal and adjust the door hinges. The cost of such work is from 1000 rubles. If there are gaps in the places of contact door frame to the walls, then you can use the above methods of insulation using sealant and foam.

Central heating batteries

Commenting on the question of how to eliminate "frosts" in the apartment, foreman Alexei Zykov explained that the owner of the apartment should take care not only to eliminate heat losses, but also to achieve sufficient heating power. In particular, he believes that the second problem can be solved by setting bimetallic batteries. If this is not enough, then you can apply underfloor heating and infrared heaters.

Director Sergei Rodionov warns that in houses with central heating can't bet aluminum radiators. They are torn by the pressure of the water. You can only use bimetal or modern steel batteries. Purmo radiators have proven themselves very well. The size of the battery depends on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room - one section per 2 square meters. m. Replacement of batteries in a room of 15-16 square meters. m. will cost 8-10 thousand rubles. (including materials).

You can increase the efficiency of the battery without replacing it. It is enough to fix a layer of reflective heat insulator on the wall behind the radiator. In the simplest version, this can be ordinary food foil glued to thin foam or cork. This "sandwich" is attached to the wall with foil outward - towards the radiator. There are also ready-made solutions. Construction stores sell several types of roll insulation, which is a metallized film glued to a sheet of expanded polypropylene or other polymer. For the manufacture of a reflective screen for the battery, you can use, for example, Isospan (FD, FS or FX), Folgoplast SP or Porileks. True, as the builders notice, these materials are sold in rolls at a price of 1.5-2 thousand rubles. The creation of screens even for a multi-room apartment will take only a small part of this volume. The rest will be redundant. The most acceptable version of the edition was found in the OBI store. For 345 rubles. here you can buy a roll of Porilex 3 mm thick. and an area of ​​6 sq. m.

You can fasten a sheet of such material to the wall on “liquid nails”.

It is believed that the installation of a reflective screen behind the radiator allows you to increase the temperature in the room by 2-3 degrees. However, there may also be backfire. It happens that mold or fungus appears behind the screen.

The ceiling is better to insulate from the outside

Builders notice that the need for ceiling insulation rarely arises - heat losses "up" occur almost exclusively in apartments on the top floors.

Alexander Goethe

In an apartment on the top floor, it is easiest to insulate the ceiling by updating the layer of expanded clay backfill in the attic. Perhaps, during the construction of the house, expanded clay was filled up incorrectly, or already in finished house someone borrowed it for their own purposes. But, there are houses where the height of the attic is only a few tens of centimeters and it is impossible to get to the ceiling of a cold room. Then you have to insulate the ceiling from the inside of the apartment. Usually a 5 cm layer of mineral wool is enough for this. We attach it to plastic "mushrooms" and sew it up with drywall.

Sex question

Most often, residents of the first floor experience problems with a cold floor. The technology of insulation depends on the design of the floor.

Timur Abdullaev

If the floor is on logs, you need to make sure that there is a sufficient layer of expanded clay under it, and also check whether the pipe passages are covered with insulation. If not, then literally floorboard cold air will penetrate from the basement or from the street. We had a case - ice formed right on the expanded clay layer. We replaced the expanded clay and insulated the space under the floor.

If the floor is laid on a screed, insulation can be placed under it. Foamed polystyrene is usually used. Another popular option is underfloor heating. Often the problem of a cold floor can be solved just by changing flooring. As the designer, head of Studio-33, Valentina Ivleva, notes, a good result is obtained by replacing the laminate with natural wooden parquet or cork. The price of high-quality parquet is from 1500 rubles. per sq. m., cork costs from 950 to 1500 rubles. per square. Plus, for laying you will have to pay from 500 to 1000 rubles. per sq. m.

Another simple option is to lay carpet over the existing floor. Its price starts from 700-800 rubles. per sq. m.

Sergei Zanin

We were given the task to eliminate the freezing of the floor in a room with a balcony. The floor is boarded on logs. We found that cold air got under the boards through a hole under balcony door. The floor was opened in the room at a distance of 1.5 meters from the balcony. Here the logs were removed, the hole was covered with mounting foam, and waterproofing was made. After that, a solid screed was made in place of the dismantled floor, and a warm floor was mounted on it. Then the entire room was covered with laminate. The cost of work without laying the laminate was about 9 thousand rubles, materials - 8 thousand rubles.

Cold walls in panels

The weak point of panel high-rise buildings is the joints between the slabs of the outer wall. They are sealed with a rubber "sausage". But over the years of operation of the building, the seams could be broken, the blockage could crack, and cold air enters the apartment.

Alexey Zykov

director of Binom LLC

Very often it is cold in panel houses due to the poor condition of the interpanel seams. In such cases, we open from the inside to the full height, adjacent to the outer wall, the corner of the apartment, replace the packing, and treat the seam with a hydrophobe. Then we restore the corner of the room with the help of plaster on the reinforcing wall. Linear meter such works cost from 250 to 500 rubles.

To replace the rubber "sausage", builders today can use hard grades of mineral wool or mounting foam. In principle, both options are acceptable. The main thing not to forget is to waterproof the joint before driving.

"Laying" the wall - an extreme option

According to Yekaterinburg builders, the methods of eliminating cold bridges described above almost always give the desired result - it becomes warm in the apartment. But sometimes the wall facing the street has to be really insulated. IN apartment buildings close outer wall insulation is possible only from the inside - from the side of the apartment. You can use expanded polystyrene, mineral wool, glass wool, ecowool, foam glass, liquid ceramic thermal insulation, cork wallpaper and polystyrene foam wallpaper with thermal insulation properties.

However, as noted executive director Alexey Rylov, some of the listed heaters should be used carefully. wall insulation with inside leads to the fact that the main wall, cut off by the insulation from the room, cools more than before. This causes the dew point to move closer to the inner surface of the wall. The dew point is the area inside the wall that has the temperature at which the steam in the pores of the brick or concrete turns into water. After installing the insulation, the dew point may reach the inner surface of the main wall or even be inside the insulation layer. Wetting will begin, a fungus may start, drywall will suffer from moisture, which closes the thermal insulation layer.

According to Alexey Rylov, the use of mineral wool and similar materials is a surrogate solution. It is more correct to increase the mass of the wall, covering it from the inside with warm plaster. Even a centimeter layer of it gives a good result. Practice shows that warm plaster without special technical tricks, it can be applied in a layer up to 3 cm.

Alexey Zykov

director of Binom LLC

Here is the method that I personally use. We apply a hydrophobic type "Penetron", "Penecrete", etc. on the wall. It is absorbed into concrete by 0.4 meters. In fact, we fixed the dew point. Next, we insulate the wall with mineral wool with a density of 150 and a thickness of at least 50 mm. We close the cotton wool with drywall in 2 layers. Another option for insulation is with a gap of 5 mm. from the main wall we mount a wall of foam glass blocks and put plaster on it under the grid.

Wall insulation using drywall and mineral wool will cost about 800 rubles. per sq. m. Including 500 rubles. - the cost of work, 300 rubles. - materials. Approximately the same amount will cost insulation with cork mats: 400 rubles. the cost of the mat and 400 rubles. - leveling the wall with plaster.

For those who are afraid of problems with the dew point, builders are advised to mount a film underfloor heating on the wall (under a layer of finish). It will heat the wall and move the dew point closer to the street. Wetting the wall can be avoided, but the price for this will be an increase in electricity costs. In addition, it will not be possible to drive a nail into such a wall.

As an alternative warm floors Aleksey Zykov suggests using compact infrared heaters aimed at a cold wall. This method of wall insulation can be implemented by any apartment owner without the involvement of a construction team.