How to properly install the external and internal filter in the aquarium. How to install an internal filter in an aquarium How to install an internal filter in an aquarium
If everything is already clear, you should think about a water filter. For fish in an aquarium, the purity of the water is very important, so it is necessary to regularly clean the water from dirt and food residues. Aquarium professionals can perfectly match the flora and fauna so that an aquarium filter is not needed. But this is rather an exception, besides, fish also need special food.
So let's talk about special filters. My aquarium has a filter as shown in the picture. Simple and clear with two sponges. Bought on the market for 100 UAH with a question to the seller: “Give me a filter for a 100 liter aquarium” If you can’t approach the seller with such a question, then read on the text 😉
Buying an aquarium filter is necessary for several functions:
- purification of water from various organic and inorganic particles;
- removal of soluble drugs after treatment of fish and other substances;
- ensuring good water circulation;
- enrichment of water with oxygen.
Aquarium filters are divided into two categories: external and internal. As is logically clear from the names, the internal one is when the filter element is located in the aquarium, and the external one is outside it. There are no particular advantages or disadvantages from choosing one or another type of cleaning - it's just a matter of the comfort of caring for the device. Remember that periodic cleaning of the filter is a guarantee that it will not become a source of harm to fish.
There are several types of aquarium filters:
- bottom, which is located under the pebbles. When working, it creates soil movement, which only benefits the water microflora;
- boxes through which water passes. There are internal and external, and the work uses electricity or air;
- aerators. The principle of operation is that water is directed by a jet of air and passes through a layer of a sponge. Attaches to the wall of the aquarium, and to clean the filter - you just need to wash the sponge;
- type "gas mask". The water is passed through a container with one or more filter media.
The location of the filter in the aquarium: it can be external and internal, and the power comes from the mains.
An aquarium filter can have different types of cleaning:
- you can buy a filter for an aquarium of a mechanical type. The main function is to remove various debris from the water. But there are devices that enrich the water with oxygen and circulate it. Foam, crumbs, sponge can be used as a cleaning agent;
- chemical type of filtration using activated carbon, zeolite or other substances. Used to rid water of ammonia and other toxic substances;
- biofiltration. Used in aquariums big amount fish, which are very polluting water. After undergoing mechanical purification and enrichment with oxygen, the water enters the biofilter. Removal of soluble waste occurs with the help of bacteria.
When choosing an aquarium filter, it is worth considering the speed of its operation. Recommendations are very different, but the best option there will be a cleaning rate from one volume per hour. It is important that the water stays clear.
A good video review of a typical aquarium filter:
How to install an internal filter in an aquarium?
How to install an internal filter in an aquarium? This question often perplexes beginner aquarists. It seems that everything is clear in appearance, but how to do it correctly, so that God forbid something does not happen, is not clear. Is the filter itself completely immersed in water or not? And why, I wonder, such a transparent tube? The instructions for the filters are not always detailed and understandable, and in the photo on the box it is not clear whether the filter is immersed in water or not. The internal filter is called so because it is located inside the aquarium. The external filter is bulkier and designed to be placed outside the aquarium. The internal filter is completely submerged under water so that 2-4 cm of water remains above it. It is attached to the wall of the aquarium with suction cups included in the filter package. The small flexible hose that comes with the kit is needed to supply air, so one end of it is attached to the corresponding hole on the filter spout, and the other is led out, you can fix it on the upper edge of the aquarium wall (often there is a mount on it for this). In any case, the air intake should be above the water level in the aquarium. Most often, there is an air supply regulator on the nose of the internal filter (some at the end of the air hose), you can first put it in the middle position. In the future, adjust as you need. Some aquarium fish love the strong current created by the filter, and some can't stand it at all. Only after installing the filter and attaching all its parts, you can turn it on to the network. In the future, all manipulations in aquarium water must be carried out with the filter turned off, since no device is immune from malfunctions, and they, in turn, can lead to damage. electric shock. Sometimes beginners ask: - Why are there no bubbles from the filter? - In principle, when setting to a weak flow of water, there may not be any bubbles. If you see a wave of the water surface in the aquarium, then the filter is working properly and this is quite enough. Water is saturated with oxygen from the surface due to waves, as in nature, because there are no devices there.
On aquatek.com.ua, it is very well written about the problems with the external filter and its advantages compared to the internal filter for the aquarium.
| Old-school aquarists have come up with a tricky device for a very long time, which they called an external filter for an aquarium. They were made from anything and filled with anything, as long as it was the most porous substrate. Most likely, looking at all their efforts, foreign experts and their technologies went ahead and released the most popular canister type aquarium filter to date, which is installed outside the aquarium. Such a filter was called biological. This means that beneficial bacteria, having settled on the porous surfaces of the substrate, will happily catch organic matter dissolved in water and turn it into substances that are safer for fish. Today, the very concept of an external filter is associated as a filter for the lazy. I would not like to call all aquarists lazy in a row, because there is still such a thing as employment or lack of opportunity for service. I consider myself to be extremely lazy. |
| From this we can draw one relevant conclusion - an external filter is convenient for any aquarium. First of all, due to the large time intervals between its maintenance (or, in other words, cleaning and flushing). Another big plus of an external filter is that the filter materials can be different, separated from each other using special containers for these fillers (or, as they say, baskets). As an example, the following can be cited: in one of these containers, a rather large-pore material can be placed, for example, a large-pore sponge or ceramic rings, which will serve to retain large suspensions from flowing water and to distribute water flows in the filter itself. It is worth mentioning the following here: the slower the water flows through the filter material, the more efficient the filtration. When using an external filter, due to the large area of the filter materials and the uniform distribution of water over the filter material, filtration in the aquarium is much more efficient than in any internal filter. And of course, the filtration efficiency exponentially increases due to the number of filter materials. Further, as an example, we can give Activated carbon, which can also be placed in one of the containers of the external filter in a sufficiently large amount, which is almost impossible to do when using a system that has an internal filter. The benefit of activated charcoal is that, due to its properties, it makes the water absolutely colorless. This is true, for example, after the use of drugs, many of which color the water very strongly or with the active use of dry food containing various dyes that change the color of the water. That is, the use of coal in a canister filter is very effective. Again, by using a slow flow of water. |
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| The next fairly weighty argument that encourages the use of an external filter, in addition to rare maintenance, is that it does not spoil general form aquarium as an internal filter, which occupies a certain space in the aquarium and is clearly visible, no matter how hard they try to hide it. For its maintenance, there is absolutely no need to even lift the lid of the aquarium, not to mention disturbing the peace of the inhabitants of the aquarium. Each external aquarium filter has taps in its aquarium connection system that shut off the flow of water into and out of the filter. To service the canister filter, it is enough to turn off the taps and disconnect the filter from the hoses. |
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View of an aquarium with an internal filter |
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View of an aquarium with an external filter |
Installing an external filter for an aquarium:
External filter. Common Problems and Solutions
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So you have already bought or just decided to buy an external filter. However, this device is not familiar to you, and it scares you to some extent. You ask yourself the question - what will happen if I have difficulties with it and how to deal with it? In this article, I will try to help those who have problems with an external filter, or who are afraid of them, hesitating before buying an external filter or better to stop at other filtration devices. In fact, there are no unsolvable problems. This is the first. The second is that the circle possible problems with an external filter is quite limited, and for all of them there is a real and practical solution. That's exactly what I will try in this article to outline the range of problems that arise when working with an external filter and outline how without special efforts they can be solved. |
| Let's start with the simplest. At first sight. But, as it is not strange, a common case. Having bought an external filter, you opened it, removed the technological lubricant (in those models where it is necessary to do this), pulled out the filter materials from plastic bags (in those models where the filter materials are packed in plastic bags) or just wondering what's inside. But it's not possible to put it back together. The filter head does not fit properly. I note that the head should clearly stand on the filter housing and close with latches without any additional effort. If this does not happen, then this is precisely the problem that is now being discussed. |
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| Violation of tightness between the head and the body of the external filter. In other words, a filter leak. This is the most painful and often raised problem in various specialized forums. And this is no accident - after all, in the event of its occurrence, there is a threat of flooding of the room in which the aquarium is located, and if it is an apartment in high-rise building, then the apartments are one floor below. These concerns, according to our observations, are the main reason that pushes the aquarist to still choose an internal filter, if such a choice is worth it. Is this problem so terrible, and what is behind it? So, possible reasons the occurrence of a problem. The first reason is that the clamps that fix the head on the filter housing are closed loosely or not closed at all, in other words, ordinary ... .. negligence (carelessness and haste). This is rare, but it does happen. elimination– Carefully close all clamps. As mentioned above, the clamps should close without additional effort. Next reason– contamination of the profile seal (or gasket) between the head and the filter housing. Often, between the filter head and the housing, in the place where the gasket is located, dirt deposits accumulate for a long time, which in their density do not correspond to the sealed gasket, and as a result, the water that is under pressure in the filter can find weakness and will come out of the filter. elimination- clean the profile seal (gasket), the very surfaces of the head and body that are in contact with it, lubricate with a special lubricant or vaseline. |
The profile seal or gasket in the external filter is an object of close attention |
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| The third and most common reason– the profile seal (gasket) is inserted incorrectly, misaligned, damaged or missing. Some models of external filters are designed in such a way that the gasket can be easily removed or moved. In such filters, it is highly likely that when the head is installed on the body, the gasket may move slightly to the side in some place, which will lead to uneven tightness of the connection, and therefore leakage (this is especially true when the gasket is already worn out by repeated assemblies and disassemblies of the filter) . Exit to this case there will be accuracy in the filter assembly process, as well as the use of only branded seals, preventing their wear and tear. In some models of canister filters, damage to the profile seal occurs due to several reasons. One of them is the sharp edges of the canister or filter head. This leads to the fact that each time the filter is assembled and disassembled, sharp edges injure the rubber seal, as a result of which microcracks form on it. At some point, pressurized water will be able to seep out and the filter will leak. In order to avoid this problem, I recommend paying attention to the head and canister when choosing a filter, avoiding a model with sharp edges. In the process of using such filters, at each assembly of the filter, lubricate the rubber gasket with a special lubricant or petroleum jelly to mitigate the mechanical impact on the gasket. |
The sharp edge of the canister of one of the external filters |
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| I note that today there are already models of external filters on the market that have already got rid of the gasket disease. Their design eliminates the possibility of both shifting the gasket and its mechanical damage during assembly and disassembly of the filter. As a rule, in these filters, the gasket is located inside a special groove on the filter head, which prevents any of its shifts. Therefore, such a gasket is pressed evenly over its entire area. The edge of the canister in these models of filters is also processed in such a way that it is rolled, eliminating the possibility of causing “injuries” to the rubber seal of the filter. One of these filters is shown in the photo with an emphasis on the location of the rubber seal inside the groove on the filter head. Summarizing the above, I will say that the accuracy of working with the filter, caring for rubber seals, their obligatory timely replacement if microcracks are suspected, as well as choosing a filter with the least safe design installation of a sealing gasket when buying it.. As you can see, with proper handling of the filter, it is quite possible to avoid such a common problem as external filter leakage. |
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| The filter is not working or is not pumping water. We approach the aquarium, but the filter does not work. what happened? Possible reasons. No matter how trite, the first reason is the lack of power supply to the filter. Check if someone at home has unplugged the plug from the socket. Sometimes it helps to get the filter back to work. If this does not help, there is a chance that the filter rotor is blocked by fragments of pebbles or a snail shell. In addition, mechanical damage or destruction of the rotor is possible. For solutions to this problem it is necessary to disconnect the filter from the network, remove the head from it and examine the rotor, and if necessary, replace it. If the filter does not work after washing and reassembling it, the reasons are as follows. The filter has nothing to download, because it has no water. It should be remembered that before turning on the filter in the network, it must be filled with water. The filter itself is not filled with water, therefore, depending on the filter model, after connecting it to the hoses, you must either use a quick start pump or fill the filter with water through a special filling hole, and only after it is filled with water, turn it on to the network. Another reason may be errors in the installation of the rotor after washing - the rotor and / or the axis are inserted crookedly, or the rotor axis is broken, there are no axial rubber bearings (see photo), or the bayonet lock on the body is incorrectly installed. To eliminate it, you need to remove the head and check the assembly of the rotor compartment, carefully installing the components in their places. If missing or damaged, replace. |
Rubber axial rotor bearing |
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| The next problem that aquarists often face when working with an external filter is that the filter power has been greatly reduced. There can be quite a few reasons for this. So, I will try to indicate them all along with the solutions. Let's take a look at the filter taps or locking levers, depending on the model. It is possible that the valves are not fully open, or the shut-off levers are not set to the OPEN end position. It is possible that the taps themselves or the tap connection block are very dirty. If this is the case, then it is necessary to clean the taps or the tap connection block using a special brush. In this case, the tap must be open, and the levers in the tap connection block are set in the open position to avoid damage to the block device. The next step is to take a look at the hoses. Perhaps one or both are broken at the bends or twisted. It is also possible that the hoses become contaminated with dirt deposits. In this case, it is necessary to clean the hoses with a long flexible brush. In addition, there are cases of contamination of the nozzle on the intake pipe with dirt, snails or plant particles. Also, a frequent reason for a decrease in filter power is severe contamination of the filter materials inside the filter. As a rule, this occurs when the external filter is rarely serviced, when the aquarium is heavily loaded with fish, or when keeping those fish species that put a significant load on the aquarium (large carnivorous fish, American cichlids, large goldfish, tri-hybrid parrots, etc.). In this case, it is necessary to reduce the time interval between washing the filter. It should also be remembered that some long-lasting filter media are not recommended for bagging because dirt deposits build up on these bags much faster, which, in addition to reducing the power of the external filter, minimizes the efficiency of these filter media. Another reason for a drop in external filter performance could be a clogged filter pump. In this case, it is necessary to clean the rotor chamber, the rotor itself and the cover from dirt deposits. Another common reason for a canister filter to drop in power is the connection of additional devices on the hose system - for example, an ultraviolet sterilizer. It should be noted that these devices in some cases, as well as with incorrect installation can significantly reduce water flow. However, it should not be assumed that the installation of a sterilizer is definitely impossible on an external filter hose. You just need to do it correctly, but more on that in another material. The last group of problems that I would like to talk about in this material is the presence of air in the filter. It is also a fairly common problem, which, as a rule, results in increased filter noise, and in the future can lead to damage to some components. The appearance of air in the filter can be caused by the fact that the junction of the telescopic filter tube is above the water level. As a result, air is drawn in through the junction. Often this problem occurs during water changes, when the aquarist does not monitor how much the water level has dropped. If for some reason it is necessary to significantly reduce the water level, in order to avoid this problem, simply disconnect the filter from the network. |
Blocks for connecting taps of various filters |
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| A similar reason may be a leak in the connection of hoses with nozzles or taps (cock block), as well as damage to the hoses themselves, as a result of which air is also sucked in during operation of the external filter. In some cases, the appearance of excess air inside the filter may be due to the fact that the external filter itself is installed too high in relation to the water level. Remember that the filter should be located well below the water level, but not less than 20 cm, taking the top edge of the filter pump head as a level. The most common reason for air to enter the external filter is the proximity of the air atomizer to the intake pipe. The problem is solved by increasing the distance between the intake tube and the atomizer. I recommend that this distance be at least 10-15 cm. Another reason for air in the filter may be high resistance to water flow due to heavy pollution filter materials inside the filter or excessively dense stuffing of individual baskets with coarse-pored or fine-pored aquarium synthetic winterizers. The solution to the problem would be to clean the filter media and fill the baskets less densely if the cause was due to excessive density of the media. It should be borne in mind that in any aquarium water contains dissolved air, which over time can accumulate in small quantities in the filter head. This air can be removed by rocking the working filter from side to side several times until air bubbles escape. The same procedure should sometimes be performed when restarting the filter or when starting the filter for the first time, because there is residual air in the pores in the filter materials even after the filter is filled and for several minutes, and sometimes even an hour, it rises to the filter head, which can cause increased noise background his works |
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| Summing up all the above, we can say the following. There are no super-serious problems when working with external filters. Do not be afraid of them or do not trust the reliability of the filters themselves. As a rule, all the problems that arise are the result of the actions or inactions of the aquarists themselves. Of course, technical defects occur due to the fault of the manufacturers, but in this case, you always have the right to apply for a warranty appeal to the seller of this equipment. When writing this article, I deliberately avoided mentioning manufacturers of external filters, as well as their specific models in order to avoid advertising or anti-advertising of a particular device, so that this article would be as informative as possible. |
Thus we have considered all possible options filtration of water in the aquarium. It is up to you to decide which filter is better and which filter is better to choose. I took a hinged inner with aeration with two sponges. See you on our pages! Subscribe to the blog to receive interesting and useful information!
On the Internet, there are a huge number of articles on the launch of the aquarium. Our site also has similar articles telling,,, and also. These materials are certainly useful, however, they are narrowly focused. In this connection, there is a need to write a full-scale material that would serve as an instruction and guide to action for beginners.
Let's first decide on the goals and objectives, the stages of launching an aquarium, as well as the equipment base and the aquarium chemistry that will be needed.
The main goal is to show the novice aquarist that "that aquarium devil is not terrible, as he is painted"! Additional but equally important goals:
Show that a beautiful aquarium with plants is "too tough" for everyone! It's easy to create and maintain.
Give step by step instructions.
Teach the beginner to "see your aquarium" and develop an unconventional way of aquarium thinking.
The objectives of this review:
Create a beautiful aquarium herbalist.
Show the dynamics of the development of the aquarium: one month, three months, six months.
When arranging an aquarium, use the maximum possible palette aquarium plants, which will make it possible to see the development of a single plant and its reaction to a particular action.
Despite the abundance of plants that will be used, show the basics of aquascape - the basics of hardscape, the rules for using snags and stones when building an aquarium composition.
Show the procedure, the basics of aquarium care, as well as give a workshop on the use of aquarium preparations during the start-up and further life of an aquarium with live plants.
Coverage of related issues, nuances and tricks.
Equipment to be used in the review
Aquarium complex Tetra AquaArt Discover Line 60L;
External filter Tetra EX 600 Plus ;
Curbstone for aquarium Tetra AquaArt 60l;
Aquarium Chemistry:
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Aquarium installation:
- choosing a place for an aquarium;
Mounting and installation of aquarium cabinets;
Starting an Aquarium:
Laying the aquarium substrate and soil;
Hardscape basics (placement of stones and snags);
Planting plants (aquascape basics);
Use of starting chemistry;
Features of keeping an aquarium with plants nuances and tricks;
Aquarium care after launch:
Correct adjustment of biological balance;
Aquarium care in the first month;
Use of fertilizers for plants;
Aquarium lighting (daylight mode);
Temperature regime for the aquarium;
AQUARIUM INSTALLATION
This stage is quite simple and understandable, however, a number of beginners make fatal mistakes at the very early stage of creating an aquarium world.
Below, let's look at the rules for installing an aquarium:
The aquarium is installed in an area where direct sunlight does not fall;
The aquarium is installed away from passages and doors. The best place is a corner of a room or an alcove.
The aquarium should not be placed on fragile surfaces.
The aquarium should not be installed near batteries central heating, near other heating appliances, in the immediate vicinity of household appliances and also on the windowsill.
The aquarium is installed taking into account the convenient placement of power outlets.
The aquarium looks aesthetically pleasing and comfortable on a specialized aquarium stand.
Aquarium start-up training film for beginners
And so we chose the place. We proceed to the direct installation of the aquarium. In this review, we used a cabinet for an aquarium TetraAqua Art60l. white. This cabinet was delivered in strong, branded packaging and despite the fact that it was delivered transport company from Moscow, all its constituent parts, including glass door were safe and sound. The curbstone itself is standard, with two shelves and a specially provided design rear wall for convenient supply of aquarium equipment. The cabinet is easy to assemble. The kit includes a complete set of accessories. And what was especially pleased: the necessary furniture key was included in the kit. Probably, many of our readers encountered the problem of the lack of keys when buying furniture, which forced them to run around hardware stores in search of the right hex key. In this case, there was no such problem, the cabinet was assembled in 20 minutes.
The next step is to install the tube in the chosen place.
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IMPORTANT!!! Any tube, any surface on which the aquarium will stand, must be leveled with a building level. The larger the volume of the aquarium, the more carefully you need to approach this issue. Any deviation of the aquarium from the horizontal is fraught with an uneven load on one or another wall of the aquarium.
It should also be noted that the aquarium tube should not be installed close to the walls. It is necessary to observe indents for convenient supply of cords and hoses to the aquarium.
Aquarium installation. In this review, we will install an aquarium complex TetraAqua ArtDiscoverline 60 L. This complex includes everything necessary equipment, which is needed to start the aquarium:
- tray for aquarium;
- convenient aquarium cover;
- lighting + reflector;
Internal hanging filter;
Heater;
The aquarium itself is 60l. net volume;
As well as two bottles of starter chemicals (TetraAquaSafe, EasyBalance) + TetraMin food.
Of course, all these components can be bought separately. In this case, Tetra saves the beginner from the complicated choice of aquarium equipment - everything is ready to go!
How to set up an aquarium:
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The aquarium needs to be unpacked. Remove cover. Remove all components of the complex.
Check the walls and edges of the aquarium for cracks and chips that may have occurred during the transport of the aquarium from the store to the house.
Next, if necessary, you need to stick the background. If film is used as a backdrop, the easiest method of fastening is to secure it with transparent tape to the outer back wall of the aquarium. Please note that the film must be attached to a dry surface. The film is attached with adhesive tape on all sides! This will save you from distortion of the background image caused by moisture between the glass and the background. For more see the article -
We install the aquarium on the curbstone. The bottom of the aquarium should be completely on the surface of the cabinet. After that, we check again with the building level whether the aquarium is evenly installed.
STARTING THE AQUARIUM
After the preparatory activities, the most pleasant stage begins - the launch of the aquarium.
Laying the aquarium substrate and soil.
A novice aquarist needs to take the issue of laying the substrate and soil very seriously. After all, they play a crucial role in the life of plants and the aquarium as a whole. The substrate of the aquarium bottom is both a source of nutrition for plants and a natural biological filter in which colonies of beneficial nitrifying bacteria settle.
The choice of substrate and soil is specific, individual and depends on many factors. It is impossible to give a clear recommendation. Each aquarist, based on his own requests, must personally determine for himself what kind of substrate, what kind of soil he will need in a particular case. Below, we will try to highlight those aspects that a beginner should definitely pay attention to:
1. A distinction should be made between aquarium substrate and aquarium substrate. The substrate is a nutrient substrate, contains the necessary nutrients that the plant absorbs through the root system. The soil is a substrate that may also contain useful elements, but its main function is to cover the aquarium bottom.
2. The nutrient substrate is used only under the root system of aquarium plants. It should not be laid on the entire surface of the aquarium bottom, if the plants, say, will only be located in the corner, in which case the substrate is placed only in the corner. Or, for example, if you have a small number of plants 5-10 pieces, you can and even need to do without a substrate.
Often on aquarium forums you can see the following dialogue:
« Newbie: I applied such and such a substrate, planted 5 plants.
Forum member's answer: Wang you algae outbreak and greening of the aquarium. Since the substrate in the first month will be very radiant.
What does it mean? All aquarium substrates are a nutrient substrate, plain language- this is "earth, black soil." The compositions of the substrates are different and the concentration of fertilizers in them is different.
From the foregoing, we can conclude that before you buy a substrate, you need to clearly understand what exactly will be in your aquarium. If you put a substrate in the aquarium and at the same time do not plant the aquarium with a sufficient number of plants, then the substrate will “flash”, that is, it will give nutrients to the empty one, which will cause an outbreak of algae - the lowest of the aquarium world.
3. If a small number of plants will be used in the design of the aquarium, it is possible to feed them through the root system without a substrate. For example, placing tablets and under the roots of plants. This will be enough for plants.
In this article, we will use the background. In our opinion, this substrate is optimally suited for a beginner aquarist. It is balanced, contains all the necessary world elements and at the same time will save the beginner from excessive concentration of fertilizers in the aquarium.
In addition, this Tetra pad, unlike others, can always be found in any city, in any pet store.
So, open the bucket, pour out the substrate and evenly, using a ruler or a construction spatula, distribute it along the bottom of the aquarium. Please note: if the substrate is distributed over all areas of the aquarium, you should try to distribute it so that the thickness of the substrate at the front wall of the aquarium is minimal (1-2 cm), and at the back wall of the aquarium, on the contrary, it is more. This is done, firstly, in order to visually add volume to the aquarium, and, secondly, as a rule, plants are not planted in the foreground (with the exception of ground cover plants).
After the substrate is laid, you can additionally make a layer of preparations that will “strengthen” it and / or make the aquarium substrate more “attractive” for colonies of nitrifying bacteria:
Crush some pills Tetra Plantastart and evenly scatter them along the bottom, strengthening the substrate;
- distribute the granules ;
Apply granules;
Scatter the required number of capsules.
You can even apply a crumb.
At the same time, we draw the reader's attention to the individuality of each aquarium. All of the above drugs can be used both together and separately.
For example, we did not use Tetra NitrateMinus Pearl when launching the aquarium in this review because we will be using the new Tetra Balance Balls in the future. We also took into account the fact that nitrate (NO3), although they are a poison and the last link in the nitrogen cycle chain, but at the same time NO3 is an important macro-fertilizer for plants. Also, we did not use Tetra InitialSticks, this was done intentionally, firstly, in order to protect ourselves from possible excessive concentration of fertilizers in the first month, and secondly, it was decided to use Tetra PlantaStart and Tetra Crypto for plant nutrition, through root system and, thirdly, we will use liquid fertilizers,,, and also. In this way and with such actions, we put forward the care of our aquarium by a herbalist to a more complex, but at the same time more “advanced level” - transferring it to “manual mode”, when we ourselves, based on the behavior of the aquarium, will adjust: increase or decrease the concentration any fertilizer.
Before laying the soil, we scattered only Tetra Bactozym capsules. Detailed description You can read this drug by clicking on the link that was given above. Here we will briefly say that Tetra Bactozyme is a drug that promotes rapid growth useful nitrifying bacteria, the drug creates an invisible film on which the bacteria “populate” and feed on. Sprinkling Tetra Bactozyme capsules on the substrate, we politely invite beneficial bacteria to quickly settle in the soil.
We proceed to the next stage - laying the soil. It is carried out according to the same rules as for the substrate (the front wall is thinner). We only pay attention to the fact that not every soil is suitable for plants !!! The soil for aquarium plants must meet the following criteria:
1. Should be easy - it will contribute good development root system of plants.
2. Must be sloping - this will negate the possible formation of oxygen-free zones and levels the likelihood of acidification of the soil and substrate.
3. Must be porous - this will encourage the development of a larger population of beneficial bacteria in the soil.
4. The soil should not "hiss".
Soil meets all of the above requirements. This primer is a novelty in the Tetra line of products and preparations for aquarium plants. That is why we will use it and test it in practice.
Hardscape basics - placement of stones and snags.
Any aquarium is a corner of wildlife, a microcosm that lives according to the laws and rules of Mother Nature. The harmony of the world is embodied in everything that we see in every bush and every branch. The aquarist must learn to see beauty, to borrow from nature its rules and laws.
There are wonderful articles on our website that will help you take your first steps into the world of harmony, we strongly recommend that you read them:
In this review, we used diabase as stones, and also used intricate driftwood as the main design element and a surface for growing mosses.
It should be noted to the reader that stones, just like the soil, should be checked for "hiss" - they should not increase the hardness of the water. Diabase is a mountain volcanic rock and in different areas chemical composition This stone is different - one diabase "hisses", the other does not. Be sure to try to check the “stone decor” with vinegar for hiss. "Hissing" stones, "hissing" soil can only be used in aquariums where there are no plants and for fish that like hard water, such are most African cichlids.
In the matter of using snags, there are also some nuances! They are described in detail in our form branch -.
Here we note that you should not use the first log that comes across in the aquarium. Take a closer look, choose a driftwood, think about how it will look in the aquarium, how it will be combined in general in the aquarium composition.
Likewise, before implementation design idea, we recommend that you make sketches of what you want (at least schematically) - this will greatly facilitate the implementation of the idea.
Planting plants in the aquarium.
In this review, we deliberately used an incredible number of different plants:
Hediotis Salzman;
Blixa japonica;
Hemianthus micrantemoides;
Hemianthus monte carlo;
Marsilia;
Cryptocoryne parva;
Rotala indica;
Rotala myanmar;
bacopa caroline;
Ludwigia ovalis;
Ludwigia vulgaris, palustris;
Alternatera colorata red;
Aponogeton is viviparous;
Eleocharis vivipara;
Proserpinac;
Hygrophila balsamic;
Pogostemon erectus;
Moss Phoenix;
Moss flame (Flamemoss);
Queenmoss / S.P.;
Willowmoss;
java mossand others.
Such an abundance of plants justifies the use of a substrate and will allow us to show the reader that growing any, even the most whimsical plant, is not such a difficult task. In the future, the list and number of plants will be adjusted.
Below we give general rules planting plants:
the photo shows the rules for planting aquarium plants
1. Low-growing (ground cover) plants are planted in the foreground, long-stemmed plants in the background.
2. Plants are processed before planting, rotten leaves are removed, the roots are cut, leaving 2-3 cm.
3. Ground cover plants and undersized plants are planted in wet soil (a little water is poured), then the aquarium is still filled, and plants of the middle and background are planted.
4. If a large number of plants are being planted (which can take a long time) a spray bottle can be used to periodically spray the already planted plants.
5. big plants can be planted in the hole with your hands, ground cover with tweezers.
6. Plants with red pigment are placed in the most illuminated areas.
7. Mosses are tied to stones and snags with fishing line or thread.
After planting, we applied the required amount of Tetra PlantaStart under the roots of the plants with tweezers - the tablets contribute to the rooting and adaptation of the newly planted plant. Please note that these tablets can be divided into quarters and applied depending on the size of the bush.
At the end of the planting, the aquarium was completely filled with water.
Sometimes, in the first month, whitish mucus can form on a snag that was drowned in an aquarium - this is organic matter, a phenomenon that is also not terrible, but it says that the snag was not fully processed. Such mucus will disappear soon, but still it can be removed mechanically or, for example, by getting catfish that will clean off this mucus.
Also, a novice aquarist should not worry that in an aquarium filled with water it will not be possible to plant plants or change their location. In the future, you can easily make adjustments.
Additional materials for this section:
Use of starting chemistry when starting an aquarium.
After the aquarium was filled with water, we introduced three basic starting preparations:
TetraAquaSafe- binds heavy metals, completely neutralizes chlorine and creates environment, as close as possible to natural conditions fish habitat. Colloidal silver solution protects the mucous membranes of fish, while magnesium and vitamin B1 reduce the stress effect.
TetraSafeStart- contains specially grown live nitrifying bacteria that reliably reduce the levels of toxic ammonia and nitrite in the aquarium.
TetraEasyBalance- stabilizes pH and carbonate hardness (KH) of water, removes phosphorus, supplements with various vitamins, trace elements and minerals, reduces the number of water changes. Provides a healthy habitat for your plants and fish in freshwater aquariums.
These drugs are essential for the maintenance of the aquarium, especially in the first month. Their use is actually the key to success and the absence of problems after launch. All these drugs have a different focus, but together they most effectively adjust the biological balance in the aquarium.
Features of keeping an aquarium with plants, nuances and tricks.
So, we launched an aquarium! With every hour, every day the aquarium begins to "ripen" - a new life begins! Millions of microorganisms (bacteria, fungi, protozoa) begin to develop, plants begin to adapt, filtration and aeration of the aquarium are carried out, photons of light begin to feed the plants, which, in turn, begin to release oxygen during photosynthesis - this wonderful world created by you! And as a creator, you must understand that this world must develop, there must not be stagnation in it.
Below we will share "easy tricks" that you should learn and put into practice.
Since we created an aquarium herbalist, we must clearly understand the components that are necessary for a comfortable life in an aquarium garden, here they are:
PROPER LIGHTING
+
FERTILIZERS
(CO2, micro and macro fertilizers)
+
CORRECT CARE
(correctly configured filtration, aeration)
PROPER LIGHTING
The issue of lighting an aquarium with live aquarium plants is important and extensive. Lighting is the key to good plant growth! It is important to understand this fact.
To understand all the intricacies of lighting for plants, our articles will help you:
Undoubtedly, given material For a beginner, it will be difficult at first. But you only have to figure it out once and everything will fall into place.
It is worth noting that, in fact, the issue of lighting is not a problem, it is only important to understand “what and how much” you need exactly for your herbalist. And then, you just need to buy and install the selected option of additional lighting - it can be additional fluorescent lamps connected through or it can be and, it can be a MG LED spotlight.
In this review, we took into account the conditions of keeping our plants, calculated the required number of lumens and supplemented the standard aquarium refreshment. The issue was resolved in one day!
Be sure to study this issue, the above articles will help you with this.
FERTILIZER FOR THE HERBALIST
In addition to lighting, plants need a complex of fertilizers that they consume in the process of photosynthesis. All fertilizers for aquarium plants can be divided into MACRO fertilizers, MICRO fertilizers and emit CO2 (carbon dioxide) separately.
All these fertilizers are presented in.
An important fertilizer for plants is carbon dioxide. The aquarist should first of all think about its sufficient amount. This is due to the fact that micro and macro fertilizers, in one quantity or another, will always be present in water, even if they are not specifically applied - they are in tap water, they are formed as a result of the life of fish. But CO2, alas, will always be missed.
Enrichment of aquarium water with carbon dioxide is carried out in various ways:
MECHANICAL;
CHEMICAL;
FERMENTATION INSTALLATIONS;
In this review, we used a fermenter and Tetra CO2 Plus preparation in our aquarium. And here's the thing, Tetra CO2 Plus, when introduced into aquarium water, breaks down into O2 (oxygen) and CO2 (carboxylic acid) in a form digestible for plants. There are no analogues of this drug, it is not pentandial - an algaecide, more aimed at fighting algae than at feeding CO2 plants. This is not a poison: an overdose of which can cause the death of aquatic organisms.
At the same time, the supply of CO2 through the mash does not always give the proper result - over time, the intensity of carbon dioxide in the mash fades. In order to compensate for this uneven CO2 supply, we will be adding Tetra CO2 Plus based on the readings of the drop checker.
MICRO and MACRO fertilizers for the aquarium.
When growing the herbalist in our review, the following fertilizers were used:
The PlantaPro series was developed by Tetra for professional care behind the plants. If you are an amateur herbalist, then one Tera PlantaMin will be enough.
In the matter of micro and macro fertilizers, you should pay attention to the fact that their dosage is purely individual. The proportions of these fertilizers are not indicated by the manufacturer and will not be indicated by us either, because. they are calculated for each aquarium by the herbalist personally, based on its volume and size, lighting power, number of plants and parameters of the water itself.
CORRECT CARE
Properly adjusted filtration in a planted aquarium
As previously mentioned, the aquarium complex includes all the necessary basic equipment. Including the internal hinged filter which is quite enough for high-quality filtration of aquarium water is included in the package.
However, in our opinion, external filters are best suited for keeping a herbalist's aquarium. Firstly, because they do not take up space in the aquarium and do not interfere with the construction of the aquarium composition. Secondly, with the help of an external filter, better filtration of the aquarium is achieved. Thirdly, filtration through external filters is quiet, in every sense: the filter itself is silent and the water flow that creates the filter is “quiet” and adjustable.
In our herbalist we used an external filter Tetra EX 600 Plus - the "youngest" in the line of external filters Tetra. Speaking about its qualitative characteristics, it should be said that this is a solid filter, we had no complaints about it. Its equipment is standard. However, it is worth noting three points that pleasantly pleased:
1. Tetra EX 600 Plus is the junior in the Tetra filter line. That is, it has a minimum power and the ability to filter aquarium water for a certain period of time (liters / hour). Many manufacturers of external filters produce a series of "junior" ones with a minimum number of internal compartments, due to their compactness (1-2 compartments). In this case, the Tetra EX 600 Plus filter has three compartments, which is very convenient, as it allows you to use even more filter media.
2. Despite the fact that the Tetra EX 600 Plus is the youngest in the series, it is capable of passing and filtering up to 630 liters per hour. Which is very solid for similar filters (average value 400-550 l/h).
3. Flute (nozzle for uniform distribution of water flow from the filter) is made of transparent plastic. This is very important for the herbalist's aquarium, as the tube does not violate the aesthetics.
What else is good for an external filter for a herbalist? With it, it is very convenient to regulate the air supply and the supply of CO2. When there is no lighting in the aquarium, the filter flute rises above the water level and powerful jets of water create excellent aeration of the aquarium. When the aquarium lighting is turned on, there is no need for air, the flute is lowered into the water and the water current begins to disperse the CO2 bubbles that rise from the diffuser and distribute them throughout the aquarium. That is, thereby improving the quality of water saturation with carbon dioxide.
If, in addition to all this, you get timer sockets and an additional pump for aeration, you can “automate” the aquarium - that is, you will not need to turn the lights on and off, raise and lower the flute yourself. At the appointed time, the light will turn on and off and the pump will turn on at the same time to aerate the aquarium at night.
In conclusion to the issue of aquarium water filtration, it should be said that earlier, when starting the aquarium, we specifically did not use any preparations that reduce the concentration of nitrates in the aquarium (Tetra NitrateMinus Pearls). Precisely because the Tetra EX 600 Plus has three compartments for fillers. And just recently, Tetra launched a new product - special filter media that reduces NO3 concentration.
We simply added a small amount of Tetra Balance Balls to one compartment of the external filter. The issue with excessive concentration of poisons is solved! The advantage of using Tetra Balance Balls for a planted aquarium is that if we need to increase the amount of NO3 (as a fertilizer for plants), we can simply remove a certain part of the balls.
Aquarium care after launch
Once the aquarium has been set up, the aquarist can take a breath and enjoy the first results of his work. However, you should not relax, because the most interesting begins ahead!
The aquarium is interesting because it is not a static picture with fish in a pond. Our site always encourages people to change their attitude towards this amazing hobby and look at it in a new way. Aquarium science is surprising because it is atypical, it does not contain stereotypes, taboos, clear instructions. Each individual aquarium is unique!
In aquarism, perhaps, there is only one rule - you need to learn to see and feel your aquarium. Do not take aquarium problems and failures as a tragedy. As Shakespeare said: "There are no bad, good, there is only what we call it"! You need to perceive everything with curiosity, study the materials, study your aquarium world and, of course, first of all treat everything with love.
Proper adjustment of biological balance.
We are sure that if you stick to what is written in this article, you will succeed! Additionally, we recommend reading the following articles to help you understand the meaning of biobalance in an aquarium:
An aquarium with densely planted plants has its own peculiarity! The biological balance in such an aquarium is adjusted much better.
When starting the aquarium, we used starter preparations - Tetra AquaSafe, Tetra AquaStart, Tetra EasyBalance. The use of these drugs is the key to success and virtually negates all the problems associated with the establishment of biological balance in the first month after the launch of the aquarium.
As can be seen from the tables and videos, using these preparations, we actually immediately take control of the nitrogen cycle and the breakdown of ammonia products, and also turn tap water into a habitable aquarium fish.
Caring for an aquarium with plants in the first month.
As a general rule, the aquarium in the first month does not require cleaning, changing the water and siphoning the aquarium bottom! These rules also apply to an aquarium with plants. But it is worth noting that keeping an aquarium with plants, you must be prepared for a constant struggle with algae, or rather, their oppression. In the first month after starting the aquarium, algae can be very annoying to the aquarist. This is due to the fact that the biobalance has not yet been adjusted, the planted plants have not yet grown stronger, at the same time, bright and powerful lighting can cause the growth of the lower flora.
When green algae appear on the walls and decorations of the aquarium, we do not recommend using any algaecides - algae preparations in the first month. It is better to simply clean them off with a sponge, a special scraper or an unnecessary plastic card.
Use of fertilizers for plants in the first month.
An important component of the successful maintenance of a herbalist is the correct application of fertilizers for plants in the right proportions.
In the first month of the life of the aquarium, we do not recommend "zealous" with fertilizers. Firstly, because when starting the aquarium, a nutrient substrate was laid, and secondly, Tetra PlantaStart and Crupto tablets were used. - this will be sufficient for newly planted plants. In the future, taking into account the condition of the aquarium, apply liquid and / or tablet fertilizers, starting with small doses. See how the aquarium behaves in the future, adjust the dosage.
Always remember that an overabundance of fertilizers can always be taken advantage of by plant competitors - algae! It is for this reason that in aquariums with lush plants (scapes) frequent and high-quality replacement of aquarium water is carried out (from ¼ to ½ part of the volume per week). By changing the water, we remove excess accumulated fertilizers, leveling their accumulation.
Aquarium lighting in the first month - daylight hours.
Aquarium lighting is an important tool for regulating plant growth and biobalance in general. Excess lighting leads to the growth of algae, its lack leads to poor plant condition.
After starting the aquarium, we strongly do not recommend immediately applying the generally accepted daylight pattern of 10-14 hours a day !!! In the first month, aquarium lighting should be dosed and increased gradually. Let's say in the first week 5 hours, in the second 6 hours, in the third 8 hours and so on until the norm - balance.
Temperature regime for the aquarium.
It must always be remembered that aquarium plants, like fish, need a stable temperature. Do not allow sudden changes in temperature.
It should also be borne in mind that most aquarium plants do not like high temperature. The general norm is 24-25 degrees.
OUR FIRST MONTH REPORT
A month has passed since the launch of our aquarium. During this time, we have done one complete change of aquarium water in 1/3 of the volume, as there was a small outbreak of algae, expressed in the formation of green dots on the front wall of the aquarium. With a sponge, two light cleanings of the walls of the aquarium were made. From the second week we started to apply liquid fertilizers of the Pro series from Tetra in minimum quantities of 1ml. three times a week. A week later, the dosage was slightly increased. Fourth week fertilizer dosage ~ 1.5-2.0 ml. Pro every other day + 1/2 dose of Tetra PlantaMin + CO2 Plus.
Plant growth. Naturally, the first to "get well" after landing were unpretentious plants. By the second week, an obvious growth was noticeable: Ludwigia obna, Ludwigia ovalis, Aponogeton, Balsamic Hygrophila, Proserpinaki. By the fourth week, I had to thin out: ludwigia, apnogeton. First harvest ;)
More whimsical plants have also mastered, but naturally, due to their natural qualities, they do not give rapid growth. Pleases blix japonica - one of the "harmful plants". Alternatera colorata red - beetroot color, noticeably stretched out.
I am very pleased with the mosses, in a month they shook off all the dust that formed when the aquarium was started and fluffed up.
At the moment, the daylight hours are 9 hours, the lighting is powerful, with a margin, so we additionally put some specialized peat in the filter compartment of the TetraEX 600 Plus, which gave a natural shading of the aquarium, a slight decrease in pH and kH.
Finally, we would like to share with you one interesting way to remove nitrites and nitrates from an aquarium - using. Many aquarists create a phytofilter over the aquarium, where expanded clay is poured and planted houseplants. We offer you a "light version" of phytofiltration. The fact is that the aquarium cover, which is included in the complex Tetra AquaArt Discover Line 60L- very convenient and has three "windows".
So, if you are not eager to build the gardens of Babylon, fiddle with lighting, or just want a cichlid! Then you can buy "bamboo", sold in any large flower shop. In fact, this is not bamboo, but Sander's dracaena - a percariously growing plant that develops in water. Three or four branches of dracaena placed in an aquarium will draw out poisons: nitrites and nitarts, and look great above it.
Dracaena over the aquarium
Video of our aquarium
Conclusion
We hope that this material was useful for you! As you can see, the maintenance of an aquarium with plants has its own specifics, the key to the success of maintaining such an aquarium is perseverance, patience, prudence and a burning desire to achieve the intended goals.
How to install internal filters?
Internal filters are installed inside the aquarium. The most popular are internal pump filters and airlift filters. They are inexpensive, they are easy to install on your own, they are convenient to use during operation. However, these mechanisms have their drawbacks - they need to be cleaned of dirt almost daily, they are overall, and noisy. Before purchasing such a water purifier, determine whether it will fit in your aquarium.
Will it be possible to install the internal filter correctly the first time? Quite if you read the instructions carefully. The device must be placed in the tank when it is half filled with water, when there are plants planted in the ground in it. Before connecting the filter to the network, it should be assembled in parts and fixed on the wall or above the aquarium.
Water purification devices such as internal filters must be completely immersed in the aquatic environment. There should be another 3 cm of water above the filter. The apparatus itself must not touch the bottom. If you bought an internal filter, or made it yourself, then it is correct to attach it with suction cups to the glass wall.
See how to disassemble, assemble and install the internal filter.
Included with branded filters is a hose for air supply. IN homemade device it must also be present, however, the principle of fastening is the same for them. Take one end of the tube and attach it to a special filter hole, bring its other end above the water and fix it with the fastened material to the upper edge of the tank wall. The tube must be above the water level, otherwise air will not be sucked in properly.
There must be an air regulator on the tube or directly on the filter. Its location affects the strength of the water flow in the aquarium. After installing the water purifier, set the regulator correctly to the middle position. Then observe the behavior of the fish - some will love the flow of water, other fish will avoid it. Adjust the level of water flow to make the fish comfortable.
Internal cleaners should be installed after they are completely immersed in water. Before removing it from the water for cleaning, the machine must be disconnected from the power supply. Also, you can not leave the switched off mechanism in the water, and turn it on after a long period of stagnation (if it has not been cleaned in time).
How to install external filters?
The organization of a home aquarium is always associated with the need to install an internal filter. It is simply necessary for the normal existence of fish, as it saturates the water with oxygen, improves water circulation, and mechanically purifies the water. But for beginner aquarists, this often becomes a problem, and they wonder how to install an aquarium internal filter.
How to install an aquarium filter correctly?
The internal filter is called internal because it is completely immersed in water. The water level above it, depending on the depth of the aquarium, should be from five to eight centimeters.
The filter is attached to the wall of the aquarium using special suction cups, which in most cases are included in the kit.
A flexible transparent tube, which is called an air outlet hose and is designed to supply air, is connected to the filter spout at one end, and is brought out of the aquarium with the other. The end of the air outlet hose located outside the aquarium should be higher than the one attached to the filter spout.
In addition, when installing the filter, you should pay attention to the fact that the air supply power can be changed using a special regulator, which is located either on the tip of the air outlet hose or on the filter nose. First put it in the middle position. And you can adjust the position you need by looking closely at the fish. There are fish species that love strong currents, and there are those that do not tolerate it well. With a low power level of the filter, there may not be any bubbles, in which case a slight swaying of water will tell about its proper operation.
After the installation of the aquarium filter is completed and all parts are attached, you can connect it to the mains. And for the future, it should be remembered that any manipulations in the aquarium should be carried out with the filter unplugged from the outlet.
How to install an internal filter in an aquarium:: How long should an aquarium filter last:: Equipment and accessories
If you decide to install an aquarium at home, then you can not do without an aquarium filter. His choice should be treated with special attention, since the quality of water in your underwater kingdom will depend on this device.
Instruction
1. Today, there are many varieties of aquarium filters: internal, external, bottom, aerator filters, as well as filters that produce mechanical filter tion (as filter filter thread, sponge or crumb is used), chemical filter tion (using activated carbon or zeolite), as well as bio filter tion (the filter uses microorganisms that purify water from harmful impurities).
2. The filter must be selected based on the volume of the aquarium, as well as the functions that it will have to perform. For example, external filters are easy to use, and bottom filters help create a more favorable microflora in the aquarium, and they need to be cleaned every two to three years. For small aquariums ideal option there will be a filter-aerator, which combines the functions of cleaning and saturating water with oxygen. In any case, before you opt for a particular filter, you should consult with a specialist.
3. Read the instructions carefully before installing the filter. If you purchased a chemical filter, then it must be filled with the adsorbent that comes with the kit.
4. Before installation filter prepare the aquarium. Rinse it thoroughly and fill it with water to check if the seams are leaking. Drain the water and put pre-prepared soil on the bottom of the aquarium. If you purchased a bottom filter, then it must first be installed under the ground. Pour about one third of the water, then plant the plants. If you have chosen an internal filter, then it must be installed at this very moment. Attach the filter with Velcro or a retaining clip, then fill the aquarium with water to the required level. An external filter can be installed after filling the aquarium with water.
5. After filling the aquarium, turn on the filter to check its operation. While the aquarium will come to equilibrium (about two weeks), the filter must be kept on. As soon as you see that the turbidity from the water has disappeared, then you can safely populate your undersea world fish.
note
When buying an aquarium, do not forget that in addition to peace from it, you will also take care of its inhabitants and their habitat, that is, the aquarium. Keep it clean regularly.
The location of the filter in the aquarium
An aquarium is a biosystem, a living organism, in order to maintain its viability, you need to have special equipment. It can be internal and external, main and additional.
The main equipment are considered: compressors that saturate the water with oxygen, filters for water purification, water heaters to maintain the selected temperature mode and lamps for lighting the aquarium.
Internal filters combine 2 functions: oxygen supply and water purification. Internal filters include a pump that pumps water and a filter - an element that can be located both outside and in the filter housing. Installing the internal filter is extremely simple. The location of the filter in the aquarium is as follows: it is attached to the side wall of the aquarium, next to the rear glass. The pump of such a filter must be completely in the water. Only an oxygen hose remains above the surface of the water to take in air and transfer it through the pump to the aquarium.
Remote filters are placed in a cabinet - stand. There are 2 tubes in the aquarium for taking water into the filter and supplying clean water. The filter consists of a pump that is installed on top of the filter, as well as a filter housing with filter material in it. When installing the filter in the cabinet - stand, you need to make sure that the hoses that connect the tubes and the filter are located freely. The intake pipe is placed vertically in the aquarium, about 5 centimeters from the ground, while the pipe for supplying water from the filter is installed in the upper part of the aquarium and can be located both under water and above water, taking into account the tasks assigned to the filter.
Remote filters are designed only for water purification, and a compressor is used to supply oxygen to the water.
How to put a filter in an aquarium:
Open the filter, unfasten the covers, then remove the engine.
Pull out the baskets with the filter elements. In the penultimate basket - activated carbon, remove the packaging from it. Then put the net with coal into the basket.
Drop the baskets into the filter.
Reinstall the engine and close the covers.
Install a water intake pipe into the aquarium through the technological hole, putting a tip on it in advance. Suction cups must be used for fastening.
Attach a hose of the desired diameter to the tube. This hose can be lowered into hot water briefly, so that it is easier to put on the tube. Additional fasteners are not required here.
Place a tap "in" on the hose. Before installation, hold the end of the hose in hot water.
Install the water supply pipe in the 2nd technological hole. Attach a hose to it, the smallest in diameter “out”.
Connect the cocks to the filter using the gray tightening washers.
Place the filter next to the cabinet.
How to install the filter in the aquarium:: aquarium installation:: Equipment and accessories
How to install a filter in an aquarium
An aquarium with fish is not only an element home decor. It has long been proven that watching the behavior of fish swimming there, behind glass, calms and relaxes. Thus, the aquarium can play the role of a stress reliever.
Filtration should be in every aquarium, otherwise the fish in dirty water will not live long. Filters purify water from inorganic substances, remove organic compounds and other substances dissolved in it from water, circulate water and enrich it with oxygen.
Instruction
1. The installation process of the filter depends on its purpose and type. And according to the location, filters for aquariums are divided into external and internal.
2. Internal filters:
Aerolifts are the simplest devices that raise water in a tube using bubbles created by a compressor. Such filters are almost completely immersed in the aquarium, almost to the very bottom. Aerolifts are installed in small aquariums, spawning and rearing for fry.
glass filters. A plastic "glass" with a substrate for filtration inside is attached to the electric pump. Such filters often play the role of water aerators.
Multi-section internal filters are like boxes divided into sections. Such filters combine several types of filtering at once. And each section has its own filtering. These filters are attached to the walls of the aquarium. True, they have a significant drawback - they are large in size.
Bottom aquariums are installed at the bottom of the aquarium. A plate or several connected plates are placed on the bottom, covered with sand. Bottom filters usually play the role of auxiliary filters.
3. External filters are multi-section and canister.
Canister filters are installed outside the aquarium and communicate with it through water intake and return hoses. Very roomy. Supports all types of filtering. Some models are equipped with a heater.
Multi-section external filters are very similar to their internal counterparts, only they are installed outside the aquarium.
Related videos
The best filter for an aquarium: types of filtration, photo and video review
Mechanical filters and aquarium filtration
Chemical filters and aquarium filtration
Biofilters filters and aquarium biological filtration
Combined filters and aquarium filtration
photo mechanical aquarium filter
Internal aquarium filters
- fasten and work inside the aquarium. They can be of all types of filtration, that is, mechanical, chemical, biological and combined.Perhaps these are the most popular and best-selling filters. Their price is an order of magnitude cheaper than that of external filters, they are easy to operate and clean. As a disadvantage, some aquarists note that they take up space in the aquarium - thereby eating up precious volumes. However, this is a controversial point, because the filter does not occupy 1/3 of the aquarium. Well, yes, it takes up 2-3 liters of volume, hanging quietly in a corner. It seems to me that this is not a very significant drawback, especially for medium and large aquariums.
The aquarium calms, surprises with its beauty and becomes an excellent decoration for any interior. However, not all breeders know how to install a filter in an aquarium; this causes all sorts of difficulties. The filter is one of the most important elements of the aquarium, so its selection and installation should be approached with special responsibility. Consider how to do it correctly and what you should pay special attention to.
Before you properly install the filter in the aquarium, you need to do right choice towards the most expedient and effective device. On the modern market there are two types of devices: internal and external type. The latter are fixed from the outside, and the second - from the inside of the water container. Making a choice in the direction of a specific option is quite difficult, in this case, you need to take into account not only its effectiveness, but also how to put the filter in the aquarium. It is important to consider the size, volume and variety of the inhabitants of the aquarium.
Internal filter
by the most simple view The filter is precisely internal, it is fixed on suction cups or hooks. Water penetrates into the lower zone, penetrating through several layers of filtration, they are synthetic winterizer and foam rubber, leaving through upwards. The jet is directed towards the surface, due to which the water is enriched with oxygen. This option should preferably be chosen by beginner aquarists. As a rule, beginners do not know how to properly put the filter in the aquarium, moreover, their containers have a small volume.
The advantages of the internal filter include the following qualities:
- affordable price and wide use thanks to which you can purchase any model at the nearest pet store;
- economical consumption of electricity;
- the efficiency of the device guarantees a comfortable stay for all the inhabitants of the aquarium, both plants and plants;
- even a person who does not know how to install a filter in an aquarium for fish can mount the device.
Internal filter
Before you put a filter in this type of aquarium, you need to consider the disadvantages. Despite this abundance positive qualities, there are a number of negative points that scare many away from buying an internal filter. These aspects include the following:
- occupies free space in the aquarium;
- for cleaning, it is necessary to put your hands into the container, because of which the water can become infected with microbes, and the fish will experience psycho-emotional overstrain;
- can only be used for small aquariums.
When considering these indicators, it should be determined which option would be preferable. However, for this you should consider aspects of the external filter, perhaps it will suit you better. Therefore, you should not rush, you need to familiarize yourself with all the options before installing a filter for an Aquael aquarium or any other company.
External filter
The external filter has high cost, but provides highly effective cleaning of the hearth even in the overall tank. The advantages of this option include:
- high degree of filtration;
- the presence of dopotsek for all kinds of fillers;
- simple replacement of filter elements;
- there are additional places for placing fillers;
- does not take up space in the aquarium, and you don’t really need to suffer how the filter should be in the aquarium.
External filter
As in the previous case, for the conclusion, you should familiarize yourself not only with the positive aspects, but also with the negative ones. In this case, the only drawback will be the cost of the product, besides, sometimes you still have to get confused and think about how to use a filter for this type of aquarium.
The filter from the Fan series is an ideal device in terms of maintenance, they are especially suitable for novice users. All models can provide high-quality cleaning of freshwater containers with a volume of 3 to 250 liters. It is important to know how to assemble and how to install the filter in Aquael Aquarium, since the degree of cleaning and the duration of uninterrupted operation directly depend on this. If everything is clear with the first, if you follow the instructions, and in most cases the products come assembled, then with the second, things are more complicated.
Maximum efficiency is achieved when the device is installed 3-4 cm below the water level. In this case, high-quality aeration is fully ensured. It is important to bear in mind that when the water evaporates, its level gradually drops as a result of natural evaporation, this must be taken into account when installing the filter in the aquarium. The deeper the item is in the water, the lower the cleaning efficiency. To the inner cavity of the aquarium, the internal filter is fixed with suction cups. When using the mount, the L-shaped holder is great - it comes with the package.
Filter for aquarium Aquael
There is a hole on the holder with which you can fix the aeration tube. It is very important that its end is well above the liquid level. Sometimes, for the maintenance of certain varieties of fish, it is necessary to create a current. This device is suitable for these purposes, you can adjust the strength of the current with a special handle; to switch it, you do not need to lower your hands deep into the water.
It should be understood that with a decrease in the strength of the current, aeration also decreases.
All kinds of accessories come with the filter. They are designed to change the design of the product, depending on the tasks and desires. Therefore, this filter for fish in an aquarium can be considered truly universal and modern.
Each manufacturer differs in the installation features of their product. On some devices, this is very easy to do, while on others you will have to get confused. In this case, you need to follow the following algorithm of actions:
- First of all, you need to prepare a few dry rags, since it is not always possible to eliminate a water leak.
- We unpack the box with the device, we take out all the contents. Be sure to have hoses, a device, internal sponges, plastic outlets for liquid, fillers.
- The external filter is assembled according to the manufacturer's instructions. Be sure to follow the established algorithm of actions. The valves on the lid must be closed.
- After that, you can proceed to the preparation of the outer parts so that it is possible to take and release the liquid. The detail of the fence is a long tube, rounded at the end, with one end it must be lowered into the aquarium. The withdrawal element is a curved short tube, it is mounted at the other end of the container. Be sure to calculate the duration of the hoses so that the length is enough to the cabinet.
- At this stage, you can already start the device. The filter should fill with water by gravity. To do this, the hose is connected to take water with a threaded clamp, you can open the tap and the liquid will flow out.
Aquarium filter Barbus
Such simple activities will allow you to connect a device that purifies the water in the aquarium. This will make you feel very comfortable, which will guarantee proper development and a long life.
Replacing the filter is a purely individual event and depends on various factors, so it is very difficult to clearly determine the time. First of all, you need to look at the working conditions, pay attention to:
- The filter must ensure a normal flow of water through its filter parts, that is, it must provide normal performance for an aquarium of a certain size.
- There should not be areas with stagnant water in the aquarium.
- Filter cleaning should be carried out depending on the manufacturer's recommendations.
The performance of the filter is fixed by the volume of water that passes through the filtering parts of the device for a specific period of time. This value is one of the most important when choosing a device. If the indicator does not correspond to the recommended one for the aquarium, then the device must be replaced with a more powerful one.
The owner's manual for each model indicates how often it needs to be replaced. There are options when it is enough to replace only the filter elements in order to return it to its normal technical capabilities.
Which filter to choose for a small aquarium
Small aquariums can be cubic or rectangular. They need to be placed away from drafts and sun rays. To equip such reservoirs, you will need the same equipment as for large analogues, that is, a filter, a lamp, a device for producing carbon dioxide and a heater. The filter is of great importance, since it is difficult to maintain the correct biological balance in a small container, even a slight deviation from the normal water parameters can be detrimental to the inhabitants.
The filter must have a large fill area in order to be able to create the correct biofiltration
The filter must have a large area of \u200b\u200bfiller in order to create the correct biofiltration, such a device will pump through itself 8-15 times more volume every hour than the capacity of the aquarium itself. It is important that the discharged water flow is not too high, otherwise it may injure the fish. Of course, serious requirements are placed on its dimensions and appearance. The following varieties meet these conditions:
- Filters of internal type with open sponges. They do not have a body, so no fish can get into the inside.
- Outdoor filters-waterfalls (hinged). This device takes up little space because the main part is on the outside.
- canister filters. For a long time, this variety was used only for large containers, but now more modest options can be found on the market.
In addition to everything else, for small aquarium fit various homemade devices – plastic bottles with porous elements, airlifts, Hamburg filters and others. Plants can act as an additional filter.
How long can an aquarium be without a filter
The filter is important element any aquarium, without it, an artificial pond will not be able to function properly. Some breeders claim that they can do without a filter and the fish still feel great. But this does not mean that you can safely do without this device. It is necessary to equip the container with natural filters, as in the natural environment.
Bacterial colonies and soil can play such a role. Microorganisms are able to maintain a normal nitrogen cycle and biological harmony, so that the fish do not die, and the plants develop. If you decide to do without a filter, then you must comply with the following conditions:
- It is necessary to choose and prepare the right soil.
- It is best to give preference to plants with a branched rhizome.
- Change the water regularly.
- You can't overfeed the fish.
- An overcrowded aquarium cannot naturally filter.
Ammonifying and nitrifying bacteria that are present in the soil are able to decompose rotting vegetation and waste from the vital activity of underwater inhabitants to harmless nitrates. The latter are necessary for the normal development of plants. To keep the aquarium clean, the soil is systematically siphoned, and the accumulated dirt is removed several times a week. Experts say that even without preparation, the normal environment in the aquarium lasts for several days, then the environment becomes dangerous for the fish and they die.
The technology of properly installing a water filter is always of interest to beginner aquarists. And this is natural, since a lot depends on this device, including the physical condition of the “residents” of an artificial home reservoir.
There are 3 main types of aquarium water purifiers:, and. Accordingly, the installation of each such device depends on its belonging to a particular type.
So, external filters - they are also called canister - are installed outside the aquarium, and the suction and exhaust hoses are lowered into the tank (or mounted through special adapters and holes). The principle of installing a bottom cleaner is already clear from the name itself: it is placed directly on the prepared bottom of the “can”. It should be noted that these 2 types of devices are used, as a rule, in large-capacity aquariums.
Most often, beginners prefer to clean their pets' habitat with small filters located inside the aquarium. Such devices in everyday life are also called "glasses". It is these devices that can most often be seen in small artificial home and office ponds.
How to install an internal filter
So, in a specialized store, with the help of a consultant, the necessary internal water purifier was selected. Before that, you should carefully check its completeness and read the tips for installation and commissioning.
First, the device must be assembled according to the recommendations set out in the instructions for use. Can't wait to check it out as soon as possible?
You should not rush, as the filter must first be properly fixed in an aquarium filled with water. Moreover, newcomers, as a rule, have some questions. To what depth should the "glass" be immersed? What is the plastic flexible transparent tube for?
The vast majority of internal water purifiers are vacuum-attached to the aquarium wall using special suction cups. These suction cups are included in the delivery. Mandatory condition: the filter must be completely immersed in water, the height of the water level above the top point of the device must be from 2 to 5 cm.
A transparent flexible tube is used to supply air to the device and is attached to its "spout". The other end of the tube should be outside the aquarium, in the open air.
It would seem that you can already start the "glass" in the work.
It's better not to risk it and move to a short time all the fish in a small sump. If the first inclusion showed normal work technical device, pets can immediately be launched into their water house.
After the first switching on, it is recommended to set the power regulator, which is available on each filter, to the middle position. It takes some time to observe the condition of your pets and then empirically establish the optimal power of the filtering device.
Features of installing an external filter
An external aquarium filter, which is often called a "canister", is usually installed in a pedestal under the aquarium, much lower than the aquarium water level. After preparation for work, according to the instructions, the releasing and retracting hoses, which are connected to the device, are lowered into the “bank”. Switching on.
Everything is very simple, but it seems so only at first glance. If we consider only the aesthetic factor, then this installation method is absolutely correct. Many ornamental fish owners attach hoses through specially prepared holes in the bottom of the aquarium.
However, you need to look at the problem from the other side.
Depending on the model of the "canister", its pump can raise water to a height of up to 3 meters. And this, in turn, promises a large power consumption and increased energy costs. This is why many aquarists mount their "canisters" either behind or to the side of the aquarium at a height about halfway up the water level. There is no need to talk about aesthetics here, but the energy savings are very significant.
Bottom filter installation
Already from the name of this cleaner it is clear that it is installed on the bottom of the water house for fish. But the choice of this type of filter is resorted to only when there is very little or no decorative bottom aquatic vegetation in the aquarium.
Such a device is a relatively thin plate with an internal filter material and many holes through which water flows. Some believe that such a plate with tubes attached to it can simply be laid on the ground and this will be enough.
First, from the bottom of the aquarium (or from a separate area), you need to remove the soil and put plastic frame, which will raise the false bottom by 2–3 mm. Only then can you close technical device soil, and then put it into operation.
Not only the purity and high-quality chemical and biological composition of water, but also the degree of its saturation with air depend on the correct installation of any aquarium filter. In addition, this determines the reliability of the device itself. In any case: before the water purifier is put into operation, you must carefully read the instructions attached to it and strictly follow the rules indicated in it.
How to install the internal filter in the aquarium, see the video:
