How to make wooden dowels. Drill for a bar under dowels. There are fastening rules
How to make dowels with an electric drill.
Spike connection of parts in the manufacture wooden furniture used quite widely. This old classic way
assembly of furniture parts is still the most reliable and durable connection.
All spikes can be divided into two large groups,
inserted and root. Plug-in spikes can be
flat and round (dowels). The easiest thing to do
round plug.
A round plug-in spike (dowel) can be made using
electric drill, well, or a fairly powerful screwdriver.
To do this, you first need to make blanks, these are bars
section 11/11 mm. and 300-400 mm long. . one end
the bar must be sharpened into a cone, the other rounded.
You will also need a die (lerka) m12. We clamp the plate in a vise
flat so that the hole is completely open.
We clamp the rounded end into the chuck of an electric drill. Drill
the end of the workpiece into the hole of the die and slowly drive
When using the M12 die, we get a dowel
10 mm in diameter. . If you use plates of a different size,
then you can respectively get dowels of a different diameter.
But in practice, it is not advisable to do dowels in this way.
with a diameter greater than 10-12 mm. .
Security Warning.
1. Choose bars - blanks with a straight texture, otherwise they
during the operation, they can split and injure the master.
2. Take your time, go through the workpiece while holding the drill straight.
If the workpiece is long and starts to vibrate, immediately
turn off the drill. With strong vibration, the dowel may
Making your own wooden dowels
I needed to make wooden dowels for making plugs when connecting to an oblique screw using the Wolfcraft Undercover Jig. I studied several ways and settled on the simplest for me.
12 Responses to “Make your own wooden dowels”
Andrey, hello, an interesting adaptation, but I would like to know at the expense of the planer how it works for you, they sent me a defective chtol, the sole with a V-shaped groove rises crookedly
In my planer, I exposed the fixed part of the sole, placing pieces of bronze foil and washers between it and the body of the planer, so that if you put the ruler on both parts of the sole (movable and fixed), there would be no gaps. And initially, both parts of the sole stood like a “house” ^ - like this. After that, I re-set the knives. Now it cuts fine. The moving part, it seems to me, is more difficult to bring to mind.
and the thickness of the layer to be removed is not regulated.
It turns out. The fact is that initially the front and back of the sole are not parallel. After the rear fixed part is aligned parallel to the moving part, when moving the moving part (i.e. when adjusting the amount of removal), the parallelism is maintained.
Andrey good video! I also tried to make dowels in a similar way before, the hole in the pine also broke and replaced it with a cherry, but the quality of the dowels still did not suit me. As a result, I learned how to make dowels from any tree on a circular saw.
I saw this method from a Japanese (on youtube nickname noho91). He also has a video about dowels on a band saw - it seems to me that this is safer. For large diameters, one of these methods must be chosen.
The dowels that I made were designed to seal the sinuses when connected to the oblique screw with the WolfCraft fixture and have a diameter of 9.5 mm. the quality of the dowels here was not critical.
So I remembered from a Japanese that I saw metol with band saw only I don’t have ribbons, it also works well on a circular, especially with soft wood.
Will have to try. It's a pity the Japanese doesn't upload more videos - the hike is really bad with health. From what I understand from reading his blog through a translator, he broke his ribs when he fell. Sorry, very interesting person with extraordinary thinking.
Yes, I agree, many of his ideas are implemented using a conventional drill.
Andrey, why don't you use a router for making dowels?
I think it's easier that way. I know two ways to make dowels with a router. First: using a radius cutter - not suitable, because. I needed dowels with a diameter of 9.5 mm, but I don’t have cutters of such a radius (4.25). The second is when a cutter is used instead hacksaw blade in a device similar to the one in my video. You can use instead of a cutter and a circular saw. This method seemed to me more cumbersome. Or do you mean some third way with a router?
I made using a radius cutter, just if you need a lot of dowels, then it’s easier with a milling cutter, and if not a lot, then a jig should be enough, but since it’s made of wood, it’s not durable. You can try from metal if there is such happiness.
there is somewhere a video in which the jeg is made of metal, he cuts the blanks and just breaks through if you are interested, then I will look
Dowels for timber: do-it-yourself manufacturing process
As a rule, the construction of any wooden building associated with the use of fasteners in the work. They help build strong monolithic structure independent of the type of building. Dowels, or dowels, are an integral part of any building. Their quality determines the reliability of the structure. Dowels for timber with your own hands can be made by following a certain technique.
Scheme of interventional connection using a dowel.
Nagel is small element, but it is impossible to do without this detail. It provides reliable fastening of walls from a bar and a felling. These fasteners were called dowels in ancient times by carpenters from Vyatka. IN XVIII-XX centuries there, the construction of huts from timber and logs began to actively develop. In that era, one could observe the active development of woodworking production, as a result of which a construction boom arose.
At that time, natural wood houses were built using birch spikes. The construction of log cabins in those parts and throughout our country began to be carried out using this particular type of material. Every carpenter knew this.
Purpose and features of dowels
Schemes and sizes of various dowels for angular fastening of a beam.
Wooden pins are specially designed for fastening log walls pins. They prevent such natural processes in wood as shrinkage, as a result of which the tree changes its original properties, deforms.
The use of such bolts will help to avoid the process of displacement of logs in the wall. Their correct installation will provide the structure with stability, the bars will be located as they were in the initial position.
The most popular are dowels made of hardwood. Birch or oak dowels cannot be broken if they are correct installation. Most often they are given a rounded shape and a size corresponding to 24-25 mm. wooden nails should be even and smooth throughout.
Nagels are a material that helps to hold the wall in a certain position. Dowels are used without fail, regardless of whether the building is log or timber. Most widespread received birch thorns.
These wooden bolts cannot be replaced by other components such as nails or self-tapping screws, the use of which will only cause the situation to worsen. In addition, do not use metal-based dowels, which are most often reinforcement. As a result, it is possible to observe the interaction of materials with varying degrees thermal conductivity.
As a result, condensation may appear on the inner surface of the timber, and this is completely unnecessary. In this case, the fittings will begin to rust, and the wood will rot.
Manufacturing guide
Wooden dowels should be even rounded.
Dowels for timber can be made independently, it is only important to know about some of the nuances. To do this, you need to take birch logs of a given length and split them into many parts, creating square-shaped blanks. Then manually trim them, giving a rounded shape of a certain diameter.
If there is lathe all elements can be accurately and quickly machined. In addition, as the basis for the spike, you can take obsolete cuttings from shovels. To give them the desired shape, you just need to cut them and make blanks. Round spikes can also be made using circular saw.
Mounting sequence
How to work with wooden spikes comes down to the following points: first you need to find the middle on the desired plane and mark the future hole.
- By using drilling machine a recess needs to be made. A spike will be inserted into it. The diameter of the drill should be the same as that of the dowel. Depth - 1.5 timber.
- If the fastener is too loose in the hole, it will not be able to perform its function fully. In the case of excessive density and protrusion of the dowel above the surface, problems may arise as a result of the natural shrinkage of the building.
- When processing a hole, make sure that the angle of the drill is perpendicular to the base. This will help avoid problems when connecting parts. Nagel connects 2 beams or logs, and this must be done in a checkerboard pattern along the perimeter of the log house wall. Wherein allowable distance between them will be 1000-1500 mm.
- From the combination of bowls and openings, it is necessary to indent 300 mm. During installation, the moisture level of the dowels must match the humidity of the beam itself.
- It is necessary to insert core buttons into the resulting hole, designed to mark the hole on another board. In the absence of such a detail, it is quite possible to resort to self-production. To do this, you need to sharpen the rod in the form of a pencil so that there is a needle in the middle. Insert it into the hole.
- Then two boards are laid on flat surface, slightly pressed against each other. Thus, markings appear on a blank board for drilling a recess for a spike.
The dowel must sit tightly and without bevels in the grooves of the timber, otherwise it will not fulfill its function.
For such purposes, you can use the marking gauge. Here it is important to correctly find the middle of the desired surfaces.
Insert the rod into the holes obtained, process the parts of the boards with glue, connect the blanks and clamp them into the clamp. Then you need to dry the structure.
- Make holes for dowels correctly. This connection has its own peculiarity: it cannot be changed at the time of assembly.
- A prerequisite is the drilling of recesses strictly perpendicular.
- Do not make holes too deep, this can lead to the dowel coming out of the board. They shouldn't be stuck.
The use of pins in the construction of houses and baths
Wooden dowels are used in the construction various structures with log or timber walls. Their use is approved by the standards of construction organizations, projects of wooden houses. In practice, the use of birch thorns provides wooden bases perfect connection. It is distinguished by the mobility of the vertical level. However, this does not prevent the wood from undergoing natural shrinkage.
In the process of building wooden houses, they often resort to making dowels for timber with their own hands.
Round birch nails give the building strength and security.
The build quality and reliability of the walls will be at the very high level and make anyone happy.
So, although independent production dowel seems at first glance to be something complicated and time-consuming, in fact it is a primitive task. Here it is important to observe clarity, planning and follow the instructions.
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A good tool. I processed the bath two years ago, so far everything is ideal.
Looks presentable, environmentally friendly and in case of damage it is not difficult to replace) great)
the timber lay down, blackness wound up. how to process it?
Dowels are completely environmentally friendly and safe, do not rust or rot. Application metal options not allowed by the rules. Assembly using dowels guarantees uniform shrinkage. They also prevent the crowns from sagging during shrinkage. In addition, such a house will be easy to dismantle and assemble in a new place.
Fastener Benefits:
- Inexpensive budget price;
- They do not contain resin in their composition, unlike coniferous wood;
- The strength of birch wood is comparable to oak;
- High fracture toughness;
- Completely factory production cycle.
Technology of installation (driving) of dowels in a bar
Dowels are driven into the beam only vertically at a distance of 1-2 meters from each other into pre-drilled holes in the very center of the log. It is important to take into account the fact that the moisture content of the dowels must correspond to the moisture content of the log itself. For a bar with a section of 150x150 and 150x200 mm, it is quite enough to install fasteners with a diameter of 25 mm. A bar with a section of 200x300 mm and logs rounded and chopped with an ax with a diameter of 30-32 cm is better to be fixed in a log house on dowels d. 30 mm of round section. The installation of metal and wooden dowels made of coniferous wood (pine, spruce, larch) is not allowed. Because conifers with their resin they glue the beam and log connection. And this is a gross violation of building codes and regulations!
Table of technical parameters of used dowels for beams and logs of log cabins made of wood
Sale in Moscow
To buy dowels d.25 or d.30 mm in Moscow (Moscow region), we recommend placing an order or calling. With the wholesale purchase of these fasteners, we have delivery to the regions of the Russian Federation with shipment by transport companies from Moscow. Call!
Photo: birch products with a diameter of 25mm.
Birch dowel is one of the most common and necessary materials used in wooden housing construction for screed timber rims. If you wish, you can do without a jute rope when finishing and painting a house, but you can’t do without a dowel. First of all, this concerns timber houses and other structures for the construction of which wood is used.
That's what tells us experienced builder engaged in wooden housing construction - construction wooden houses do-it-yourself - for many years, Nikolai Pervachev: “Nagel is an indispensable thing in the construction wooden house, acting as a kind of frame, or holder of walls made of timber. The dowel is a pin or cylindrical stick, the diameter of which depends on the size of the wood material used. As a rule, a dowel with a diameter of 2.5 mm is used, and therefore it is the most common and can be easily bought at any construction market. Moreover, very often ordinary mop or rake cuttings, sold in a hardware store or garden market, are suitable for these purposes. The main thing is to pay attention to what the stalk is made of. most the best wood for pins, birch is considered, as it has all the qualities necessary to fulfill the purpose of installing pins. Birch wood is quite strong and strong, has a homogeneous structure, but on a par with this it is easy to process and quite resilient and elastic. But birch and wall wood - pine and Christmas tree - should be treated with the use of fire protection means for wooden structures.
The need to use dowels is primarily due to the fact that when drying, the beam begins to twist, turn out, which occurs due to uneven shrinkage of the material and for a number of other reasons, for example, when paint for a log house is incorrectly applied - very early. If, however, a dowel is used in construction, working on a bend, then the timber is only crushed in horizontal planes and does not spin. A cut of a dowel that is suitable in size is called a dowel, and the technology for its use is quite simple, even a beginner can handle this task, you just need to follow certain rules for installing dowels.
IN carpentry hardwoods are of great interest. Birch is one of these materials. It can be seen that in construction and in any other industry it is very difficult to meet. This can be explained by its characteristics, disadvantages and advantages.
In Russia, 4 types of birch are mainly used in production: ordinary, dwarf, downy and drooping (due to their size). But, in general, there are more than 100 of its varieties. In terms of properties and application, they differ slightly from each other. Basically, birch is white with a yellow or even reddish tinge. Its structure is homogeneous, layered without the presence of natural resins.
Common birch is used to kindle stoves, or as charcoal for barbecue, (due to its high calorific value). Skis, plywood, pressed boards are made from fluffy and drooping. these trees are more durable and are not afraid of moisture. Regardless of the type, birch has good physical and mechanical characteristics.
Benefits of birch wood
The advantages of birch wood are:
- Strength. She is not afraid of mechanical impact (blows).
- Hardness.
- High wear resistance, practically not inferior to powerful oak in this parameter.
- Beautiful material texture.
- This material bends easily, but being in a steamed state.
- Birch stains well when etched, so it is often used to imitate precious woods.
- Resistance to the effects of biological microorganisms.
Lack of birch wood
There are also disadvantages of this wood, due to which it is not found in the construction industry:
- If she stays indoors for a long time high humidity, then easily succumb to the processes of decay.
- Small density.
- Moisture permeability. Wood after getting wet, or being in a room with humid climate long and hard to dry.
- With temperature changes, the birch begins to warp.
- Processing birch wood is not easy. It is a hard and highly drying rock.
For the construction of houses, birch wood is rarely used, due to its fragility. But if nevertheless given material it is decided to purchase for the construction of a building, it is recommended to lay the first crowns of the log house with oak or larch logs, and then lay the birch. Birch is great for holding finishing works indoors, for the production of furniture, plywood, creating floor covering(floor boards, parquet), production of ancillary building structures.
Before installing the dowel, a row of holes of exactly the same diameter as the diameter of the dowel is first prepared. The dowels connect all the crowns of the structure in a checkerboard pattern according to the scheme - three crowns through the crown, and are located at a distance of one and a half to two meters from each other. It is also advisable to pay attention to such a question as the degree of humidity of the dowel and the wood of the structure. The pin should be a little drier than the base material, then after drying, the dowel will firmly wedged in the body of the timber and will not move there. In this way, strength and mobility will be ensured. wooden walls and the sealant for the tree between the logs will be preserved - the inter-log, the wooden dowel will not be able to damage it.
Chopped log - the most unpredictable construction material. In the process of shrinkage of the log house, the crowns can be twisted so that through cracks appear in the walls, and their appearance will be hopelessly damaged. Insufficiently diligent builders can distort a house, the construction of which went to a bar, gun carriage or rounded log. Repair.Divandi experts tell you what you need to pay attention to in order to get a beautiful, warm and durable wooden cottage (or bath).
Customer errors
A minor mistake made by builders during the construction of a wooden house can dramatically worsen the thermal performance of the house or shorten its life. But customers can also make mistakes. Conscientious builders always dissuade a private trader from buying log cabins that have stood at the production site for a year or more. As a rule, their lower crowns have already begun to rot or are affected by a fungus. To give a presentation, the log house can be bleached, but this will also have a bad effect on the durability of the wood.
Alexey Galimov
A similar situation can be if the timber was brought to the construction site, but they did not start cutting it right away, but dumped it on the ground. After some time, the logs begin to turn blue - this starts the process of decay. Blue is removed with chlorine-based chemistry, but as a result, the oil that is used for finishing log house. If under construction big house, then the forest must be brought in as necessary so that it does not lie, but falls on the walls as quickly as possible.
Another problem with old log cabins is that there is a possibility that the cutters who made the box are already working elsewhere, and other people will be assembling the log cabin. A hired team will easily shift the blame for poor-quality assembly onto unknown cutters. Those, they say, made a frank marriage, and it is impossible to collect it qualitatively. The assembly of the log house should be trusted only to those who made it. Otherwise, there will be no one to ask for quality.
By the way, not only chopped logs, but also other materials deteriorate from improper storage.
Alexander Bunkov
Aleksey Markin, director of the AMstroy company, tells about another mistake often made by customers.
Alexey Markin
For example, a person decides to build a house from a gun carriage, rounded log or profiled timber. Log cabins from these materials, as a rule, are made on special equipment. The customer comes to the enterprise with a project that was prepared for him by a third-party architect, and it turns out that here they cannot make the nodes the way they are in the project. The equipment is designed for other sizes. As a result, one has to either abandon the selected material, or completely redesign the house for the technologies available at the enterprise. It happens that reworking a project costs as much as the project itself.
Another tip that saves you from mistakes can be considered naive, but in some cases it will come in handy. Builders categorically advise against contacting companies that promise to build a log or timber house in a month. Construction of a timber building natural humidity or even dry wood is always carried out in two stages - the construction of a log house with a roof, and after about a year's break, windows, ceilings, and floors are put on the shrinkage of the log house. Shrinkage is not needed only at houses made of glued laminated timber. Earlier, the Repair.Divandi portal talked about.
Photo #1- A log house with huge cracks.
Builders' mistakes: typical and gross
As Aleksey Markin notes, the most common mistake in making a log house from chopped log, - these are small areas where the log fits to the log (small width of the interventional groove). The thermal performance of such a house will be low. The head of the Domostroy-SK enterprise, Oleg Valuev, adds that in some cases the crowns may not be adjacent to each other at all (photo 1). Huge gaps will have to be regularly caulked, which will require considerable additional costs. At the same time, the appearance and thermal characteristics of the house cannot be radically improved.
Photo #2- The log house cannot sit properly due to incorrectly set racks.
It happens that builders build a house in such a way that it simply cannot sit down.
Oleg Valuev
This is a very common mistake. Often the house has open veranda under common roof. It turns out that part truss system rests on the frame, and part - on the racks of the veranda. The log house shrinks - by 10-15 cm per year - and the racks are not shortened. As a result, the upper crown hangs on the rack, the edge of the frame closest to it cannot sit down, gaps appear here. If the material is damp, it can warp the roof.
As Oleg Valuev explains, if it is planned to make a veranda under the roof, then a special shrink jack must be installed between the upper end of the rack and the upper crown (photo 3). It will allow the frame to sit evenly. Instead of a jack, you can put a few boards that will need to be knocked out periodically. By the way, shrinkage jacks are clearly visible in the first illustration (Fig. 1) to ours.
Photo #3- Jack for shrinkage (photo "Domostroy-SK").
Another mistake that prevents the log house from shrinking is an attempt to fasten adjacent crowns with nails. The log lies unevenly on the head of the nail, and an intervention gap appears. Due to the loose fit, the log may begin to “spin” during the drying process.
Alexey Galimov
There are quite severe cases. One day a man came to us with a request to fix a frame made of profiled timber. We came to the facility, and there the crowns were fastened not even with nails, but with self-tapping screws. If the log can somehow slide down along the nail during shrinkage, then the self-tapping screw holds it tightly. There are huge gaps in the log house, all the jute is outside, the blue has gone at the joints. Here the treatment is only a complete disassembly, processing and installation on a new one.
The problem of poor-quality waterproofing of the lower crown of the log house has somewhat lost its relevance. As a rule, the installation team performs this operation with high quality. However, the customer should pay attention to how the foundation and wooden walls are paired. If the foundation is tape or grillage, then the surface of the tape should be leveled, and between the foundation and the lower crown there should be 2-3 layers of roofing material, or a waterproofing layer of a similar efficiency.
However, excess moisture can get into the wood not only through the foundation. If you lay floors in the house and hang ceilings before the log house has sat down and dried, this will impede air circulation and lead to “steaming” of the house - mold or fungus may appear on the inner walls.
Alexander Bunkov
Especially the issue of protecting wood from moisture is relevant for the lower rims of the bath. We recently had a case - they were repairing a bathhouse, in which the lower logs had rotted. It turned out that the builders insulated the floors in the steam room and the washing department with polystyrene foam. The space under the floor was clogged. The water that got under the floor from the sink did not dry up. For six months, the lower crowns rotted. We raised the log house on jacks, changed the crowns and redid the floors. The repair cost a third of the price of the bath ... The floors in the washing department and in the steam room must be done without insulation.
The head of the Domostroy-SK enterprise, Oleg Valuev, notices that in the washroom it is also not necessary to make baseboards on the floor. Moisture collects under them and the process of decay also begins.
Photo #4– Mold on unventilated wooden structures.
Unpredictable wood
Even experienced builders cannot always predict where moisture will go and where it will begin to accumulate.
Alexey Galimov
A very recent case. They polished inside the log house from chopped logs. The days were very hot. The heat presses - moisture goes inside the house. The inner surface of the walls turned out to be more wet than expected. The sawdust, formed during grinding, stuck to the walls and underneath it went blue. Well time noticed, cleaned up. So that moisture does not form anywhere inside the log house, the log house must be well ventilated.
To skew or not to skew...
Many Yekaterinburg builders consider it a mistake not to use pins (dowels) when assembling log cabins. These are wooden rods installed in vertical holes and uniting two logs adjacent in height. In general, the scheme is as follows: dowels pierce the first and second logs. When the third is placed on top, then holes are drilled in it and in the second log (with an offset relative to the existing ones) for the dowels of the "second portion" and so on along the entire height of the log house.
Alexey Galimov
Main mistake during the installation of log cabins - they do not dodge. And without dowels, the log may begin to spin when it dries. However, different factors must be taken into account. For example, if a profiled timber of natural moisture is laid in winter, then the drying process will not be fast. Such a log house and without dowels can sit down normally. And if you build in the summer, then dowels are required. Otherwise, the log house will lead, it can snatch a cup.
Not all builders agree with this position. Some believe that cutting should be done in such a way that the walls stand firmly and without dowels. However, recently there have been much more supporters of the use of dowels. After all, the additional fastening of logs allows you to make the shrinkage of the log house more predictable, and in some cases, correct the shortcomings of the lumber. The presence of pins in the walls with openings for windows and doors is especially important.
Photo #5- Installation of dowels when assembling a log house from profiled timber.
Aleksey Markin, director of AMstroy, emphasizes that when working with a bar, rounded log or gun carriage incorrect installation dowels can lead to hanging crowns. Other experts are reminded of the same.
Oleg Valuev
Usually dowels with a diameter of 22 mm are used. The holes for them should be slightly larger in diameter. For example, we use a 25 mm drill. Otherwise, during the drying process, the log may pinch the dowel and this will prevent the shrinkage of the crowns, since the log will not be able to move down and hang on the dowel. I also remind you that to drill holes for dowels, you need to use a very sharp drill. So that he cuts through the jute laid between the crowns, and does not pull it through. Otherwise, the occurrence of cold bridges in this place is possible.
Photo #6- Laying jute in the interventional grooves (photo by Domostroy-SK).
A heater / sealant is laid in the interventional grooves - moss, tow, linen or jute felt (more often they just say “jute”). The last option is the most popular today. Oleg Valuev draws attention to the fact that in the cup the width of the pairing of logs is almost twice the width of the interventional groove. Therefore, in this place, the builders must not forget to increase the width of the insulation tape (photo 6).
There are other points that a private developer should keep in mind.
Alexander Bunkov
The side of the log that was facing north at the tree has denser wood. This can be seen on the cut - the annual rings on the north side are thinner. north side you have to put the logs outside. Then there will be fewer cracks. However, the brigades, as a rule, do not pay attention to the annual rings. They put it how they feel comfortable. True, and customers also do not take this moment into account. When we offer for a surcharge - 50 rubles. running meter- laying logs taking into account the rings, customers, as a rule, refuse.
Yaroslav Kulikov, specialist of VIRA Group, reminds that wooden house also makes special demands on the arrangement of the roof. Usually a log house has not only external, but also internal walls. They sit down faster than the outer ones. This can lead to deformation of the rafter system, which relies on both internal and external walls. To prevent this from happening, small backlashes are laid in the attachment points of the rafters, and the rafters are made sliding.
Yaroslav Kulikov
I would also not recommend using tapwood for construction. These are tree trunks from which the resin was collected. They show a characteristic Christmas tree made of cuts. There is no resin in this wood. She is fluffy. The house will not last long. By the way, in order for the house to be durable, we use the following technique in the manufacture of a log house - on the lower surface of the log along the lunar groove, a compensation cut is cut with a depth of 3-5 cm. Then, when the wood dries, the cracks will go inside. Outside, large cracks should not appear.
If the house is being built from a chopped log, then the presence of tap wood in the prepared materials can be calculated from the characteristic Christmas tree from the cuts (“the top” of the Christmas tree is directed to the butt part of the log). If a timber or a rounded log is used, then the absence of a "tap" will have to be taken on faith. However, some assurance is given by the fact that last years(about 15-20 years) in the Ural region, pine tapping is practically not carried out.
