When is the best time to plant strawberries? How to plant strawberries - the best planting methods. Video: planting strawberries in the fall
Planting strawberries is a rather painstaking and hard work. However, there are a number of recommendations with which you can plant strawberries correctly and grow a rich harvest of this tasty and juicy berry.
Strawberries are delicious berry, which almost every gardener dreams of growing. It can be eaten straight from the garden or cooked delicious compote, jam or jam. If you are thinking about how to properly plant strawberries, then you need to decide on a few important aspects this process.
Planting strawberries: how to choose and prepare a place
The quality of the crop, the process of growth and development depends on the chosen place for planting strawberries. It is necessary to pay attention to the following factors:
1. Type of soil
For planting strawberry seedlings, it is best to choose black soil or loamy soil. Sandy and dark gray forest soil is also suitable.
2. Soil acidity
Acidity affects the growth rate of the crop, so before correct fit strawberries definitely define it. The pH level should vary between 5 and 6.5.
3. Lot location
If the planting site is in a lowland or closed, then the likelihood of getting a good strawberry crop is reduced significantly. For planting strawberry seedlings, it is better to choose the southwestern sides, where a lot of sunlight enters.
4. Groundwater level
Groundwater should not be too close to the planted strawberries. Otherwise, there is a risk that strawberry seedlings will simply die. Level ground water must be at least 60 cm.
How to plant strawberries: choose planting material
As planting material, already grown strawberry bushes are suitable, which can be bought at special markets or grown independently. You can also purchase strawberry seeds and grow them at home in special containers. This will take approximately 1.5-2 months.
You can also grow strawberries with the help of mustaches from bushes that are immediately planted in the ground. This must be done in autumn period so that the mustache has time to take root for the next season.
If you want to start planting in late spring or early spring, then you can use an already established strawberry bush that does not produce a mustache. To do this, you need to separate part of the bush and plant it in another place.
When to plant strawberries
You need to plant strawberries at a time when there is no strong heat, but there is already abundant sunlight. This weather is established in May and persists in July and early August. It is important to consider that you can only get a good harvest in the second year after planting strawberries, so you need to be patient.
Ways to plant strawberries
If you are seriously thinking about how to plant strawberries correctly, then you need to seriously approach the choice of how to plant them. Consider a few basic ones, using which you can grow a rich harvest of berries.
Planting standing bushes
With this method of planting, sockets are planted at a distance of 50-60 cm from each other. Due to this remoteness, the plants do not touch each other and are well ventilated, which makes it possible to obtain large berries. During the growth of strawberries, you need to constantly remove mustaches and weeds, as well as loosen the soil.
Planting nests
Planting strawberries in this way will require a lot of space. Holes will need to be prepared in the garden. One of them is in the center of the nest, and the rest are around it. The distance between rows should be 35-40 cm, and the distance between nests in this row should be about 30 cm. This planting method will allow you to grow many times more crop.
Planting in rows
This method is one of the most common. Thanks to him, you can get large strawberries, which will grow over 4-5 years. With this method of planting, the bushes are planted in one row at a distance of 20 cm from each other. During their growth, it is necessary to periodically loosen the soil and remove weeds.
How to plant strawberries correctly
The whole process of planting strawberries can be conditionally divided into several stages:
1. soil preparation;
2. preparation of seedlings;
3. planting seedlings.
Preliminary soil preparation consists in checking it for infection with larvae of May beetles and wireworms. You need to make sure that after the snow melts there are no larvae of these harmful insects. If larvae are found on the landing site, then you need to collect all the dry grass from the soil and burn it. Then it is necessary to treat the soil with ammonia water at the rate of 20 k. per 1 weave. It is important to make sure that this water penetrates to a depth of about 20 meters. To do this, you can use a cultivator or other devices for loosening the earth.
After preparing the site, you can proceed to the preparation of seedlings. Prepared seedlings 5-6 days before planting should be placed in a cool place. Immediately before planting, you need to deal with the root system of the seedling. If it is very long (more than 10 cm), then it must be shortened to 7-9 cm. Then you need to lower the roots of the seedlings into a clay mash. You can get it by mixing half a bucket of orange clay with water. Such a measure will avoid drying out.
Seedlings should be planted in prepared holes sprinkled with humus. First you need to moisten the soil so that the strawberry seedlings take root better.
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Strawberries are the queen of berries! Every gardener looks forward to her harvest. For successful cultivation strawberries, you need to choose the right seedlings, variety, plot, follow the planting technology and be ready for pest control.
Rules for planting strawberries - choosing a place and soil
Strawberries grow best on black earth, sandy or loamy soil, on southwestern slopes and dark forest soils. On light gray, clayey, peaty, soddy-podzolic or sandy soils, the strawberry crop will be much worse.
Strawberry planting rules - site preparation
Wireworm, strawberry nematode, Colorado beetle and other pests love such a delicacy as strawberries. Before planting strawberries, check the area for the presence of larvae. In the spring, after the snow dries up, all the remains of vegetation are collected and burned. If you find a lot of larvae, treat the soil with ammonia water, they die from it. In October, plow the ground to a depth of 30 centimeters. In spring, the earth is harrowed and cultivated to a depth of 15 centimeters.
Rules for planting strawberries - we determine the quality of seedlings
Seedling good quality must have a root collar with a diameter of at least six millimeters, and root system whiter than seven centimeters. On 1 bush there should be 3-5 leaves, whole apical soil and juicy white roots 3-5 centimeters long.
Strawberry seedlings, either locally selected or obtained externally, should be planted as soon as possible. If you are forced to reschedule planting, then seedlings can be stored for up to 3 days in the cellar, while the roots should be wrapped in a wet cloth.
Ways to plant strawberries - planting in rows
Bushes in this case are planted at a distance of 15 centimeters in 1 row. In the aisles, a strip 40 centimeters wide should be left for free access to plantings. When planting, the soil must be loosened, removing weeds and mustaches.
Advantages of the method: strawberries planted in rows grow well and bear fruit for 5-6 years.
Disadvantages of the method: labor-intensive planting process, weed control, mustache trimming, mulching, frequent loosening of the soil.
Methods for planting strawberries - planting free-standing bushes
Strawberries are planted one bush at a distance of 40-60 centimeters. Whiskers should be removed regularly. This is done so that the bushes develop intensively and bear fruit abundantly.
Advantages of the method: the fruits grow large, it saves planting material, minimizes the likelihood of putrefactive diseases.
Disadvantages of the method: the same as the first.
Ways to plant strawberries - carpet planting
This is the cheapest and easiest way to land. In this case, the whiskers of the bushes do not break off, which makes it possible for the berry to grow over the entire available area.
Thanks to this compacted method of placing bushes, a special microclimate is formed in the surface layer. This allows you to restrain the growth of weeds and retain moisture.
Advantages of the method: it is very convenient way for those who rarely visit the country. Berries practically do not need watering, loosening and fertilizing due to natural mulching.
Disadvantages of the method: the berries will shrink over time.
Ways to plant strawberries - planting nests
The technology of this method is to plant 6 more bushes around one plant at a distance of 5-7 centimeters. The result should be a regular hexagon. The distance between nests in one row should not be less than 25 centimeters.
Advantages of the method: it is planted much more plants than with the above methods, which provides a large yield.
Disadvantages of the method: a lot of planting material is needed.
After a while, gardeners begin to understand the issues of growing strawberries, and they themselves give advice to inexperienced summer residents. Planting strawberries should be treated as responsibly as possible. It will not be superfluous to talk with experienced amateur gardeners and re-read special literature. Please note that only with strict observance of agricultural practices can one hope for a good harvest.
Strawberries contain sugar, carotene, citric and malic acid, salts of iron, phosphorus, calcium, manganese, etc.Strawberries are a dietary food product that quenches thirst, stimulates appetite and improves digestion. Fresh berries are used for hypertension, atherosclerosis, peptic ulcer of the stomach and duodenum, constipation, who have a violation of salt metabolism.
Forest strawberries are no less useful than garden strawberries. In the forest, you can collect leaves together with petioles in the budding and flowering phase and dry. From dried leaves and fruits, infusions are obtained, used for stones in the liver and kidneys, for colds. Reduces, especially infusion of leaves, blood pressure dilates blood vessels. Strawberries are especially useful for high blood pressure. It is good to drink infusion with anemia or loss of strength. The infusion is prepared as follows: take two tablespoons of chopped fresh leaves or berries per half-liter jar or one tablespoon of dry leaves or berries. Pour boiling water over and use the infusion after 2-3 hours. Berry juice is treated, eczema, minor wounds. Berry masks are used against skin aging.
LANDING LOCATION
Strawberries grow well flat surface, on a surface with a slope facing southwest. It is impossible to grow strawberries on steep slopes, also in low-lying places where cold air accumulates, from which the harvest is received late, and the number of diseases increases.
Unsatisfactory results are also obtained on the steep southern slope, where the snow quickly melts and, as a result, the strawberries are exposed. Strawberries are moisture-loving, but do not tolerate waterlogging. The place where strawberries grow should be protected from the winds, since part of the root system freezes at a temperature of 10-12 ° C cold, so it hibernates better under snow cover with a layer of at least 20-25 cm.
Strawberries cannot be grown for more than 4 years in one place (2-3 years is good), as various infections and fungal diseases accumulate, such as wilt, gray and white rot and other diseases.
BREEDING
Strawberries are propagated by seedlings (rosettes). Seedlings are either bought or grown on their own plantings, which are grown on shoots (whiskers) of mother bushes. The best sockets those that are closer to the uterine bush. No more than three outlets are left on the shoot, up to 5 outlets can be left, but in this case the last two will be less developed than the first three. Up to 5 shoots are usually left on one mother bush, each with three rosettes. From one bush, 15 pieces of well-developed rosettes are obtained.
As rosettes appear on the shoot, they are fixed in moist soil, i.e. small roots deepen into the soil. You can immediately plant sockets in small nutrient pots, while the pots are deepened into the soil, see Figure 1.
It is impossible to grow rosettes and berries on mother bushes at the same time, so the first flower stalks that have appeared are removed. The best seedling obtained from the bushes of the second year of fruiting.
Soils are better slightly acidic pH = 5-6, mostly loamy and sandy, containing humus and nutrients. Clay cold soils without cultivation are not suitable. On moist soils with closely located groundwater, strawberries should be grown on high beds. On sandy soils, strawberries tend to produce low yields with small berries, as there is always a lack of moisture and strawberry plants on these soils feel oppressed. Therefore, for planting strawberries, the garden bed is cultivated 1-2 months before planting it.
DIY GRID
Making ridges in low places, as well as where groundwater is close, make ridges at least 30-35 cm high. In dry places, the ridges are not high, 8-10 cm, it is possible without ridges. The width of the ridges is 90-100 cm. On loamy soils, add one square meter a bucket of manure humus and a bucket of peat, and on sandy ones add a bucket of soddy soil, peat and humus and 3-4 kg of sawdust.
On peat soils add 10 kg of sand and 6 kg of manure humus, and on clay soils 12 kg of sand, 10 kg of manure humus or compost and 5 kg of semi-rotted sawdust.
From mineral fertilizers, two tablespoons of nitrophoska or ROST-1 are added per square meter. If we make beds in the fall, then we additionally add two glasses of dolomite flour and one glass wood ash, and if the beds are prepared in the spring, then in addition to nitrophoska or GROWTH-1, we add one half-liter jar (0.5 l) of wood ash.
We do not add fertilizers with chlorine under strawberries, since chlorine is dangerous for strawberries.
Dolomite flour or other lime materials can only be applied to strawberries in autumn, and not in spring, since dolomite flour or fluffy lime contain calcium, which adversely affects the development of plants if they are applied immediately before planting.
The bed is dug up to a depth of 30-35 cm, while it is cleaned of all rhizomes, weeds (wheatgrass, sow thistle, wood lice), and also the larvae of the May beetle and yellow wireworm larvae are removed. After digging, we level the bed and sprinkle it on top with a small layer (up to 2 cm) of coarse-grained sand, otherwise slugs, snails, centipedes will develop a lot, since these pests quickly develop on damp humus soils, and the sand dries quickly, heats up and this negatively affects them .
Beds prepared for planting strawberries in autumn or spring can be used before planting strawberries for the cultivation of the following crops: all leafy salads, spinach, legumes, dill, cabbage, kohlrabi. Before planting strawberries, the bed must be loosened with a pitchfork, leveled, easily compacted, watered at the rate of 10 liters per square meter and treated with a solution blue vitriol(two tablespoons of copper sulfate are diluted per 10 liters of water) and watering the bed at the rate of 1.0-1.5 liters per square meter.
LANDING
The best landing time is summer, from July 20-25. Planting is done in cloudy weather or in the evening, so that the plants can acclimatize overnight. Seedlings (sockets) are planted with 3-4 leaves, a well-developed heart and root system. Seedlings are separated from mother bush and dig with a small wet clod of earth and immediately planted in the garden. If the seedlings were purchased from the outside, they are washed along with the root system in the next solution. Take three tablespoons table salt and one teaspoon of copper sulfate and diluted in 10 liters of water and immersed in this socket solution for 10-15 minutes. Then they are taken out and rinsed. clean water and seedlings will be with clean washed roots.
After these treatments, the seedlings are planted in the garden. When planting any seedlings of strawberries, you can not deepen or raise the heart, otherwise it rots in one case, and naturally dries up in the other.
When planting, you need to straighten the roots well, make sure that they do not bend or they pour a mound in the hole and put seedlings on it, carefully straighten the roots on it and sprinkle it with moist earth.
After planting strawberry rosettes, it is immediately necessary to easily water from a small watering can by sprinkling.
Properly planted seedlings by winter will already form good bush, which will contribute to normal overwintering. The next year (summer) from these bushes we get a good harvest - strawberries of the first year of fruiting.
For early and mid-early varieties, planting in the first year is thickened, i.e. between rows 60 cm, in a row 15 cm. With such a dense planting in the first year of fruiting, strawberries give high yield due to thickening. As soon as the last berry picking is over, every second bush is removed, and a bush will remain in the garden from the bush in a row with a distance of 30 cm.
For late varieties, the planting pattern in the first year is 60 cm between rows, in a row - a plant from a plant 20 cm. After harvesting the first summer crop, every second is removed, and the plant will remain in the row from the plant at a distance of 40 cm.
In the first year of fruiting, strawberries give a good harvest due to thickening in the rows. In the second year of fruiting, the strawberry crop is considered the highest and with large berries. In the third year, the harvest does not decrease, but the berries are slightly smaller size. In the fourth year, there is a decrease in yield and the berries become smaller. Therefore, after the third year of fruiting, strawberries are removed, i.e. the entire above-ground and root system is dug up and burned.
CARE OF YOUNG PLANTINGS IN THE BED
The seedlings planted in the garden are covered loosely with sheets of paper for the first two days, then every day, 2-3 times a day, they are watered from a watering can by sprinkling 2-3 liters per square meter for a week, so that the seedlings are well accepted. In the future, they are watered once every 6-7 days, in hot weather they are watered more often, after 4-5 days at the rate of 8-10 liters per square meter. If single flower stalks appear on the plants, they are removed.
During August, 2-3 loosening of the soil is done to a depth of 5 cm. In October, a bed with plantings is mulched (sprinkled) with a layer of up to 5-6 cm, preferably with peat or sawdust. In November, cover with spruce branches to keep snow in the garden. During the first frosts (minus 8-10°C), strawberries should be covered with a layer of snow up to 10-12 cm.
SPRING CARE FOR STRAWBERRY OF THE FIRST YEAR OF FRUITTING
In early spring, dry, completely dead leaves are removed, removed upper layer(autumn mulch-bedding) up to 3 cm thick, thereby reducing the number of overwintered pests, and the root system warms up faster from the sun's rays. But many gardeners violate this and often, on the contrary, add strawberries in the spring, and even with a thick layer, which is why the root system does not start growing for a long time, and the ripening and picking of berries are delayed for more late dates. Well, if, nevertheless, the soil bedding was not removed, then it is necessary to loosen well between the rows, approximately to a depth of 6-8 cm.
All old leaves are not removed, they can only be removed when young leaves have gone. At this time, strawberries are fed: in 10 liters of water, one tablespoon of ammonium sulfate and two glasses of mushy mullein are diluted. Feed each plant in a liter jar under the bush.
Before flowering, they also feed: two tablespoons of nitrophoska and a teaspoon of potassium sulfate are diluted in 10 liters of water, spending a half-liter jar under a bush.
The third top dressing is done after the last harvest or no later than August 10: two tablespoons of nitrophoska and one glass of wood ash are diluted in 10 liters of water, spending one liter per bush. This top dressing is needed to lay flower buds for the next season's harvest.
CARE OF STRAWBERRY OF THE SECOND YEAR OF FRUITTING
Top dressing is done the same, but the dose of the solution is increased, i.e. they are fed both in spring and before flowering, 10 liters of solution per square meter. In addition, in the spring, when loosening the soil, add two glasses of wood ash per square meter of beds.
GENERAL AGRONOMIC WORKS
Proper watering: In the first year of fruiting, as well as in subsequent years, strawberries are watered, as a rule, as needed, i.e. it depends on weather conditions. Strawberries are watered only in the morning, so that the moistened plants have time to dry by night. Before flowering, the leaves can be watered by sprinkling, while the leaves are cleaned of dust and they develop better, and during flowering and fruiting they are watered only on the soil, without trying to get on the plants.
Watering often, and even in small doses, is very dangerous, as this can lead to the multiplication of diseases, such as gray rot of berries, powdery mildew and other fungal diseases.
In warm weather without rain, it is watered once every 8-12 days, the watering rate before flowering is from 10-12 liters per square meter, and during fruiting up to 20-25 liters to moisten the soil to a depth of 20-25 cm. Cold water do not water. best temperature water 18-20°C.
Who grows strawberries in small beds can be covered with foil during periods of flowering and fruiting, during heavy rains.
Mulching (i.e. bedding): The first mulching is done during the setting of the first berries. To do this, take clean straw or wood shavings or dry moss or film tapes and place them only under the bushes to avoid touching the peduncles from the soil. This way the berries will be clean and there will be less gray rot.
The second mulching is done in late autumn (October 10-15), for which they take peat or sawdust and pour on the bed with a layer of 5-6 cm. Do not pour on the bushes, do not fall asleep the leaves. As already noted above, the bedding in the spring cannot be done, and the bedding, which was done in the fall, is raked from the garden in the spring or deep loosening up to 7 cm is done. By doing this, we not only warm sunbeams root system, but also remove a large number of pests and diseases.
Many gardeners mulch the beds with film, especially black - I don’t advise, because, firstly, due to lack of air, the root system develops poorly, i.e. the roots come to the surface (like hummocks in a swamp), and secondly, a lot of pests such as slugs, snails, wood lice, centipedes and others accumulate under the film. The film is especially dangerous in rainy summers, and black - in hot weather.
Pollination: All modern strawberry varieties are self-pollinating, so you can additionally pollinate with a soft school brush, i.e. brush over the flowers. This is done on a warm day from 12 o'clock.
If there are bees, then they supplement pollination, moreover, the harvest is much higher, with aligned berries. To attract bees, you can sprinkle the bushes with a solution of honey (one teaspoon per liter of water) during the beginning of flowering.
Often you can see deformed berries - this indicates that there was insufficient pollination, i.e. there were adverse conditions (rain, heavy fog, very hot or cold). The best temperature for flowering is 18-20°C.
Picking berries: berries are removed only in the morning, always with the stalk and calyx, trying not to touch the pulp of the berries, which is why they are easily damaged and poorly stored, after picking the berries, you need to immediately cool them for 1-2 hours at a temperature of 2-3 ° C.
Landing different varieties does not exclude the possibility of cross-pollination of varieties.
So, every gardener should have three beds of strawberries: the first year of fruiting, the second year of fruiting and the third year of fruiting. To do this, you need to plant three years in a row new garden and only in the third year after fruiting, they dig out a three-year-old bed and instead plant strawberries again, but on a different bed, after green crops.
STRAWBERRY DISEASES
Gray rot - very dangerous fungal disease. Typically, the outbreak occurs in years of cool and wet weather. Severe damage to berries occurs in old, thickened areas. Softened brown spots appear on the berries, then they increase, and the berries are almost completely covered with a thick gray velvety coating and rot.
Control measures: Diseased berries should not be left in the garden, as the smallest spores of the disease spread throughout the area with the help of wind and rain. Treat before flowering with copper chloride at the rate of one tablespoon per 10 liters of water, spending one liter per square meter. The second time is processed after the last picking of berries. For 10 liters of water, dilute two tablespoons of copper oxychloride and liquid soap.White, brown and brown spotting of strawberries - spots appear in summer and especially in autumn, as their leaves spread, they begin to turn brown and fall off.
Control measures: in case of severe damage to these diseases, spraying with copper oxychloride is carried out (one tablespoon of copper oxychloride and one tablespoon of soap are taken per 10 liters of water), sprayed in early spring when young leaves appear and in autumn after picking berries.Powdery mildew affects all above-ground organs of strawberries, especially leaves, where their edges are twisted in the form of a boat, the leaves become rough and have a light bronze tint. The berries are also affected, they are covered with a powdery coating, rot, while having the smell of a mushroom.
Control measures: in early spring, on young and old leaves, before flowering, sprinkle with sulfaride (paste is sold in stores) two tablespoons (at the level) per 10 liters of water, sprayed also in autumn. It can be sprinkled with potassium permanganate in the spring before flowering (1.5 grams are dissolved in 10 liters of water), spending 1-2 liters per square meter. It can also be processed like this: they take two tablespoons of colloidal sulfur and dilute it in 10 liters of water, the temperature of the solution should not be lower than 25 ° C, sprayed in the spring before flower buds appear. Berries affected by this disease are harvested and burned.STRAWBERRY PESTS
There are many pests in strawberries.
Most dangerous pest is a transparent strawberry mite that damages leaves, especially young leaves. The leaves curl and acquire a yellowish-oily hue, and the bushes themselves become dwarfed, the berries are small. Strawberry mites breed more in wet weather.
Control measures: most effective method- spraying with karbofos (three tablespoons of karbofos are taken per 10 liters of water, carefully diluted, the temperature of the solution should be 30 ° C). Sprayed immediately after the last harvest of berries. They take a solution and water it from a watering can by sprinkling over the entire garden bed at the rate of up to three liters per square meter, trying to moisten the bushes well. Immediately after watering, it is necessary to tightly close the entire bed with a film for 2-3 hours. This treatment will also help against strawberry beetle, weevil, whitefly and other pests.If strawberry plants are heavily damaged by strawberry mites (80%), then after the last harvest and treatment with karbofos, the plants must be mowed. This is done no later than August 10, so that the bushes have time to form before winter. good crown leaves, in this case, strawberries will normally overwinter.
Slugs, snails, centipedes - severely damage strawberries, especially in damp, shady places with humus soils.
Control measures: best method the destruction of these pests is the drug metaldehyde (granular). Granules are laid out in places where pests accumulate, 5 grams per square meter. The drug is laid out on the beds after picking berries.The general processing of strawberries against pests and diseases in the fall around the second decade of September is processed as follows: per 10 liters warm water(30 ° C) add two tablespoons of liquid soap, three tablespoons of burnt vegetable oil, two tablespoons of wood ash and two tablespoons of vinegar, mix everything well, strain and immediately sprinkle not only the strawberry bushes, but also the soil.
STRAWBERRY VARIETIES
Varieties should be high-yielding, resistant to pests and diseases, large-fruited, good taste.
Varieties are divided into early, mid-early and mid-late. to the most promising and productive varieties include such as: "Pavlovchanka", "Pomegranate", as well as "Beauty Zagorye", "Roxana", "Desnyanka", "Early Makherauha".
To mid-early varieties: "Hope", "Coulomb", "Zenith", "Redcoat", "Festival", "Generous", "Mary Maherauha" To late varieties: "Dobrynya", "Amulet", "Cinderella", "Lord ", "Zenga-Zengana".
Recently, many gardeners are fond of varieties of foreign collections, such as: "Cambridge Favorite" and "Bogota" (England), "Black Svoi" and "Cardinal" (USA), "Troubadour" (Scotland), "Gigantella" (Holland ) and others.
Strawberries are one of the most popular berries (except that it can compete here). It is valued for its excellent taste, excellent aroma, beneficial features and the most delicious compote, which is obtained from it.
It is not surprising that many gardeners and gardeners are trying to grow it on their plots in summer time, and in winter - in greenhouses. However, not everyone manages to harvest a large crop, because this culture is finicky. It is difficult for novice gardeners to grow this queen of berries and create all the conditions for abundant fruiting.
To understand all this, you should use the tips that will be useful at all stages of growing strawberries.
The main mistakes when growing strawberries
- Too dense and frequent planting. Strawberries grow quite well and planting bushes too often will interfere with development.
- Not cutting the "antennae". Many gardeners prefer not to cut the so-called mustaches of strawberry bushes, as it grows with their help. But this is quite bad for the crop. Growing strawberries spend less energy and substances on the formation of berries. So if your goal is precisely the berry itself, then these very mustaches should be trimmed from time to time
- Landing in a place that is illuminated by the sun all day. Despite the fact that strawberries are a sun-loving berry and need a lot of it, too hot exposure to the rays can lead to shrinkage and sunburn. Provide either a partially shady plant or a special shelter-canopy.
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SHIELD BLUEBERRY Shield (or tall) blueberry is the most common blueberry variety cultivated in household farms. Berries
Strawberries are the queen of berries! It is long-awaited for every gardener. The vegetative period has 2 waves: in spring and summer after the first harvest.
For the successful cultivation of strawberries, you need to choose the right site, variety, seedlings, observe crop rotation, planting method and be prepared to fight pests and diseases.
Soil and place for growing strawberries. Strawberries grow best on chernozem, loamy and sandy soil, on dark gray forest soils on southwestern small slopes.
The yield will be worse on light gray, peaty, clay, sandy or soddy-podzolic soil, in a lowland. , it is necessary that the pH was 5 - 6.5. The groundwater level must be at least 60 cm, and the soil in winter at a depth of 15-20 cm does not freeze to -8°C.
How to prepare a plot for planting strawberries
The Colorado potato beetle, strawberry nematode and others will not refuse such a delicacy as strawberries. Before planting, it is better to check the area for the presence of their larvae. After the snow melts and the soil dries up, collect all the remains of vegetation, burn it. If there are many larvae, then alkaloid lupine is planted, the larvae die from it, or the soil is treated with ammonia water (20 kg per 1 hundred square meters). It is possible to clear the area from cereal weeds in autumn with the composition of Roundup (2.5-3 liters per 1 ha). Plow the ground in October to a depth of 25-30 cm. In the spring they are harrowed and cultivated immediately before planting to a depth of 15 cm.
How to determine the quality of seedlings for planting strawberries
The best seedling is the one with root neck more than 6 mm in diameter, and the root system is fibrous, in root processes more than 7 cm. Seedlings should have 3-5 leaves, a whole apical bud and succulent roots white color 3-5 cm long.
Strawberry seedlings, obtained on the side or selected on the spot, need to be planted faster. If, for some reason, planting is delayed, then the seedlings can be stored for 2-3 days dug in moist, loose soil in a shady place or a cold room (basement, cellar), wrapping the roots in wet moss.
How to plant strawberries
Planting strawberry seedlings in early spring(as early as possible) or very early autumn. Autumn planting is carried out from August 10 to September 25, after moistening the soil well. Do not delay planting, as later spring or autumn planting significantly reduce yield. There is an opinion that it is possible to plant strawberries in the summer, July-August, using the two-line method. Then on the selected site in the spring you can grow early vegetables. But in the south of Russia and Ukraine, there is little precipitation in the summer-autumn period, and the air and soil temperatures are so high that no shading and watering can give the desired effect. Planted plants quickly wither and die.
5 days before planting, the seedlings are kept in a cool place, immediately before planting, the roots are dipped in clay mash for better survival, to avoid drying out. Planted in moist, but not wet soil. During planting, the box with seedlings should be in the shade. If the root system is too long, then shorten it to 7-10 cm.
For protection from fast drying soil and crust formation, the wells of watered plants should be sprinkled with earth, and even better - with humus. After planting, the soil on the site is compacted, it should be loosened to give free access to water and air to the roots of plants. If the weather is dry, watering should be repeated as needed.
Clay mash recipe:
- Pour 1/2 bucket of orange clay with water to slightly cover the clay, leave to infuse.
- After a while it will be a creamy mass.
- If the lumps of clay have not completely dissolved in the water, then mix the mass several times so that the water can completely absorb all the lumps.
Ways to grow strawberries in the country
Growing strawberries in rows using the row method
With this placement, 600 to 670 seedlings are required per 100 m2.
Any time for planting strawberries can be chosen, except for winter. In the spring, strawberries are planted as early as possible, in early April, since if you plant them in May, the development will be much slower. If planted in July-August, it will be possible to harvest the next season. Deadline mid-September can be considered for planting strawberries.
1 - two-line; 2 - single line; 3 - two-line on the ridges
For planting, cloudy and damp weather is chosen. You can plant with a single-line method, two-line or two-line in the beds. The most optimal is a two-line planting, where the distance between plants is 15-20 cm, between ribbons (rows) 60-70 cm, between lines 30 cm. With a single-line planting method, the following distances are observed: between plants 15-20 cm, between lines 60-70 see. Place the beds from north to south, plant 2 rows of strawberry seedlings along the edges.
Planting strawberries on small areas follows the cord. To do this, at two opposite ends of the plot, using a tape measure, you need to make marks for future rows-lines. Put pegs in the marked places and pull a cord for every two opposite pegs. Using a stick measuring 25 cm near the cord, mark the places for planting plants in a row. On the same side of the cord, make holes with a bayonet, and on loose soil with ripper cats or hands. A liter of water is poured into the hole. When the water is absorbed into the soil, the roots of the seedlings are placed in the resulting mud and they are well covered with mud, the holes are covered with dry earth, which then must be tightly compressed. The holes should be of such depth that the roots of the plants do not bend when planting. Before planting, it is necessary to inspect each strawberry bush and remove plants with diseased leaves and roots. For seedlings intended for planting, the roots should be shortened somewhat, leaving them 5-7 cm long. This will contribute to more strong development lateral roots.
To protect strawberries from pests, dirt and decay, place a roofing material or lutrasil on the ground, making holes in it 25-30 cm wide from each other (cut the canvas crosswise with a knife and bend the corners into the soil).
Make a hole bayonet shovel and arrange the seedlings so that the heart is flush with the surface of the soil. If the heart (growth point) is deep, it will rot; if it is high, it will freeze from the cold in winter.
1 - correct;
2 - wrong (deep);
3 - incorrect (high)
Sprinkle the roots with earth and compact a little. Water at the rate of 0.5 liters per plant and so on for 7-10 days until it takes root. Be sure to mulch after watering. It is important that the roots, when planting, are located freely in the hole and the earth fits snugly against them. With such a planting, a plant pulled by a leaf does not pull out. If the roots are not tightly pressed against the ground, then the plant takes root more slowly and may die.
Do not leave covering material on the site for the next year, since ants will create colonies under it, which will be extremely difficult to fight - the plants will die.
In dry hot weather, plants are shaded with green branches or burlap, after watering they are mulched so that the soil does not take on a crust. In November, strawberries are covered if there is no snow cover yet.
Growing strawberries under cover (film tunnels)
Shelter allows plants to develop faster, ripen several weeks earlier than plants planted in open ground. Usually grown like this early varieties strawberries. The simplest shelters are film tunnels. Strawberries cover the 1st and 2nd year of fruiting. Install tunnels in late April-early May: install wire arcs placed at a distance of 1 meter from each other, up to half a meter high from the ground. Deepen the ends into the soil and fix the film on them. The film may sag on the side and top, so the arcs should be secured with twine. Film tunnels need to be ventilated from time to time, watered, mulched and harvested, which means that one side must be made deaf, sprinkled with earth or laid heavy objects on the edges of the film, on the other side, attach a rail to the film. At the end of the shelter, collect the film, tie it in a knot, tie it to pegs, which you then dig into the ground.
It is not difficult to take care of strawberries in film tunnels, place a thermometer in a shelter, if the temperature inside the structure rises above 25 ° C, then you need to urgently ventilate it. When the weather is good and the strawberries are in bloom, the shelter is removed for the day. When the crop is harvested, the film is removed.
- In summer, water strawberries once a week early in the morning. warm water. Weed the beds periodically. Fertilize plants and watch out for pests on strawberries.
- In autumn, strawberries are covered with straw, spruce branches, corn stalks or fallen leaves (spunbond or lutrasil is also suitable). If there is no such covering material, then spud the bushes without sprinkling growth points. Immediately apply compost, peat or a mixture of them as fertilizers.
Growing strawberries in vertical beds
Cultivation takes place in a multi-tiered arrangement of containers. This method can be used both in open and in closed ground in cases where the soil is infertile, heavy, with a high level of groundwater, near fences and various buildings. Undoubted advantage is the ability to get a large amount of crop with a small area of planting.
As containers for vertical cultivation of strawberries, any designs of cone-shaped and pyramidal shapes, 10 cm high, are used. Containers should be placed in such a way that there is a distance of at least 10 cm between plants, and the volume for each root system is at least 1.5 liters. Containers are filled with a mixture in equal proportions of peat, humus and sod land; peat and sod land in a ratio of 2:1 and a little sand.
Having prepared containers and freshly dug strawberry seedlings, planting begins from the lower tier. Such strawberries need regular watering with warm water (2-3 times a week, 200-300 g for each bush), fertilizing is carried out (combined with watering) and mustache removal.
Plants are protected from frost by:
- The containers are removed and placed on the ground, covered with agrofibre, leaves or peat.
- If frost intensifies, the “insulation” layer is also increased, plus covered with a layer of snow, trying to keep the temperature inside above 6 ° C.
Growing strawberries under agrofibre
Thus, berries can be obtained in more early dates, for about a week. When the snow melts, the strawberry bushes are covered with agrofiber, which allows you to create a good temperature inside for the growth and development of plants, and also protects against temporary frosts and winds. When weather become stable, the material is removed.
You can get a crop 2 weeks earlier than usual, you can also use a tunnel under the agrofibre. Long wire frames 2 m long are set in an arc along the rows of strawberries at a distance of 1 m from each other, using a wire 4-6 mm thick. They are deepened into the ground to a depth of 25-30 cm, fastened from above and covered with agrofiber in April, burying the ends in the ground. If the weather is warm, slightly open the ends of the agrofiber for ventilation. If the weather is completely settled, then the material can be opened completely. Close with agrofibre immediately after the plants fade.
An efficient way to grow strawberries from seeds
This is an interesting method that is not suitable for every strawberry variety, and especially not for hybrid varieties.
Prepare a container or box at least 10 cm deep, fill it half way purchased soil for seedlings, water well. Spread the strawberry seeds and cover the box with glass. Attention: you do not need to cover the seeds with soil! Put the box in a warm place, the soil will be moist, and when the first shoots appear, move it to the brightest place. Remove the glass from the box. When a few true leaves appear, pot out and fertilize every two weeks with strawberry fertilizer. As the seedlings grow up, they can be transplanted into open ground in the country. To stop growing strawberries from seeds good harvest, it is important to follow some more rules: plant seedlings shallowly, you can not fill up the apical bud. Strawberries not planted deep enough can expose the roots when watered.
How to Harvest Strawberry Seeds: To grow strawberries from seed, use only the largest berries, which are harvested in July-August. With a blade, remove a thin layer of the berry and rub it on the fabric. Dry in the sun, clean the seeds and collect in paper bag. Store for planting at room temperature.
To grow strawberries from seeds, pay attention to such varieties as: Mutofavorit, Bogota, Lakomka, Sakhalinskaya and others. So that you can enjoy strawberries all the time, select varieties with different periods maturation.
How to water strawberries
- Strawberries are watered from a watering can. This method of watering is suitable for small beds with plantings.
- Watering strawberries from a hose is a minimum cost physical strength, but it takes a lot of time, the water is unevenly distributed, it is possible to damage the seedlings and it is impossible to pour warm water, as strawberries love.
- The presence of a well or well on the site also takes place.
- Drip irrigation from manufacturers of irrigation systems - food (water) is supplied directly to the root system. Suitable for growing strawberries in a bag or container way, as the system is installed in a pipe break. For ordinary beds, a system is suitable that is installed in the side surface or at the ends of the pipe. "Factory" drip irrigation It is also good because, together with water, plants can be fed with fertilizers (fertigation). Among the shortcomings are the cost and the inability to protect plants from frost.
- Sprinkling with sprinklers: circular, fan, swinging, rotary and other types. But here it is desirable to use warm water.
- By furrows: before planting, make furrows, water well and plant seedlings in the walls of the furrow, depending on how much row planting.
You can determine the level of soil moisture as follows: with a shovel, dig the soil to the depth of the roots and take soil samples, squeeze in your hand and determine by touch how moist the soil is.
strawberry care
Remove weeds and any pests you see, loosen the soil after watering or compacting. If in the year of planting the soil was supplied with organic matter and mineral fertilizers, then strawberries do not need additional feeding. If not, then in the spring, when digging, you need to add 15 g of ammonium nitrate, superphosphate and potassium salt, 30 g and 10 g, respectively, per 1 sq. M.
Winter care for strawberries
Chic snow cover will be an excellent means of protecting plants from frost. The layer should be from 10 to 20 cm. In the absence of snow and mulch in the form of straw at a temperature of -12-16 ° C, the plants may die.
Development of strawberries in subsequent years
Second year after planting
In the spring, when you see young shoots of strawberries among the foliage, remove the shelter, remove the yellowed and dried leaves (burn them), as they could overwinter different kinds pathogens and pests. Do not touch last year's green foliage, it will nourish the plant and protect the buds from spring frosts.
Let the soil dry out so that you can loosen the aisles well. Then just water and loosen. When the ovary is formed, lay out sawdust, straw or peat, such a mulch will serve to retain moisture and protect it from rotting and bending to the ground during the fruiting period.
That's it, now we are harvesting and waiting for the strawberries to begin to “throw out” their mustaches. Inspect the beds every week, running the whiskers into the rows of strawberries to compact them. In one season, an adult strawberry bush should have 3-5 young shoots. With greater thickening next year, the yield will fall, the berries will become smaller, and diseases will develop more. Remove the weakest whiskers, they will drink juice from the plant, which can be directed to the development of stronger ones. Before winter, cover strawberry bushes with spruce branches, straw or other covering material.
Third and fourth year after planting strawberries
Here, care will be the same, it consists in regularly removing all mustaches (the bushes no longer need to be compacted), if necessary, remove foliage at the end of the season and regularly spud adventitious roots (near the soil surface).
