Wood cosmetology and surgery. Secrets of experienced gardeners: how to cover up a saw cut on an apple tree. Bark Treatment Tips What is clay mash
A wound on an apple tree - saw cut, peeled areas of the bark or lacerated damage as a result of breaking off a branch - is open door for pests, bacteria, infections, fungi. Untreated damage heals for a long time, which negatively affects the fruiting of the apple tree, the processes of formation of new shoots. For this reason, no, even the most insignificant damage to the tree should not be ignored, it is better to cover it up. You will learn how to properly disinfect, lubricate saw cuts and trimmings from this review. Measures should be taken as soon as possible - in this case, you will have time to prevent the development of serious diseases in time.
When cuts are formed: if you cut down the old deadwood, damaged branches
The main reasons for the formation of sections:
- crown formation- in order for apple trees to bear fruit and grow well, they need to be properly shaped, but after pruning, defects often appear on the bark and branches.
- Removing old branches- when cutting branches from trunks, wounds are almost always formed that need to be properly disinfected and treated with special protective equipment. Read about how to prune an apple tree in spring.
- Rejuvenation- the same pruning, but for mature trees. Any traumatic events (and with rejuvenation, the volume of removal of branches, shoots is significant) can cause cuts.
Pruning trees and covering up wounds special means do not take place on the same day. Wait a few days until the cut dries, and proceed to smearing.
Processing time
The terms for covering slices on apple trees depend on the time of year and the current weather conditions. So autumn is in season heavy rains sections dry out badly and for a long time - sometimes you have to wait at least a week for the wound to stop getting wet, and it can be fully processed. In sunny warm weather, saw cuts dry up in just a couple of days.
During summer pruning it is necessary to remove only very young, not yet stiff shoots. Sections of small diameter heal quickly on their own and in special treatments dont need. At low temperatures air, wounds practically do not heal at all, even with proper treatment.
In winter, cuts are not processed at all.
Sections, the diameter of which does not exceed 2.5 cm, are disinfected, but not covered with anything. They tighten themselves and quickly enough, they do not pose a danger to the tree. With cuts more than 3 cm in diameter, they work strictly according to plan - immediately after trimming, the wound is cleaned of roughness, burrs with a sharp garden knife, the cuts are smeared with a brush with a special solution that will disinfect the wound and protect it from bacteria and infections. Then the cut is left to dry for several days, after this period carry out processing with a special tool, without affecting the bark of the tree along the extreme parts of the cut. If rodents damaged the bark in winter, it cracked due to temperature fluctuations or received a sunburn, treatment is carried out in the spring (the temperature should be above zero). Damaged areas are cleaned to healthy wood, then processing is carried out in the same way as after seasonal pruning.
Means for processing: what you can choose, how to cover
Consider what means are used for spraying saw cuts, and which ones are used for smearing.
Also, in places of unprotected cuts, the branch may begin to dry out - this process begins due to a violation of sap flow, resulting in nutrients those sections of the branch that are located above the damage area do not reach.
Clay talker
To prepare a clay mash, use part of the mullein, two parts of clay and a little hay or straw. All this is stirred, diluted with water to the consistency of sour cream.
cement mortar
To make a cement mortar, take 3 parts fine sand and part of the cement, mix with water and add drying oil. You can use the tool, including for covering deep cracks, wounds. Since water-based, oil paints over time, washed away by rain, they need to be updated.
Putties are applied only to damaged areas of wood, while the edges of the bark must be clean - otherwise a bark roller will not form, which will heal the wound.
Unprotected wounds on the bark are prone to cracking, sometimes the cracks are very deep. In the place where the cut has damaged the tree bark, a hollow may form. To use a mullein and clay talker, garden pitch, oil paints on natural drying oil, cement mortars, water-based coloring compositions, as well as balm-lacquer, which is also called artificial bark.
Garden pitch, how to cover up / cover up correctly
Garden pitch can be bought ready-made or made independently from fat, rosin, wax.
Wax, which contains var, does not allow air to pass to the tree, so the putty does not drain over the wounds. Cost from 50 rubles. for packing.
Due to the fact that the rosin is sticky, the var is securely connected to the wood, and the fat prevents the putty from cracking. You can replace fat with vegetable oil or drying oil, wax on turpentine. To prepare the solution, take one part fat, rosin and two parts wax.
Melt wax, fat, rosin first, then mix, slowly pour the mass into cold water. When the mass hardens, remove it, mix in the same way 20 parts of paraffin, 1 drying oil, 4 rosin or wax and rosin 2 parts each, turpentine 1 part. You can add ashes to the garden var, do the work away from the fire. Before applying to the cut, the garden pitch is slightly heated - this is necessary to make it softer. Apply the mass on the bark in a very thin layer - like a film. If you make a thick layer of putty, then the wood under it will begin to rot over time.
If juice flows after cutting branches
If sap oozes from small cuts that you didn't cover up, the pruning was done very late and the wounds simply didn't heal before the sap started flowing. This is not harmful for a tree, but small branches, hearth buds can dry out. You can partially protect the tree by making a clay liquid talker and smearing all the wounds with it, including the smallest ones. If the juice flows from several large sections, it means that you have not hermetically sealed, foamed, or painted the damage. Clean the surface with improvised means and do it all over again. Do the work on lubrication with high quality - otherwise, they will be of no use.
To better fix the putty on the branch, use a bandage - they wrap the damaged area around it.
If the cut on the branch turned black
In cases where the cut was not processed in a timely manner, various pathogens settle on it. If no action is taken, the disease will spread to other branches and take large area. Blackening - characteristic symptoms and.
First, individual shoots dry out, and then the tree dies. Moreover, even neighboring crops in the garden can suffer. During treatment, it will be necessary to cut off all damaged parts, going to healthy areas of bark and wood. Process Slice Bordeaux mixture 3% if the leaves have not yet blossomed, and 1% if the growing season has begun. Let the cuts dry, then cover with diluted clay or garden pitch. The treatment is repeated if the disease continues to progress. Read about soot fungus on an apple tree.
But how to remove moss from an apple tree can be understood from the content in.
When blackening the sections, not only the damaged areas are sprayed, but the entire apple tree as a whole.
If the cut of the apple tree rots
Cut rot usually indicates an infection with tinder fungus spores. Spores are carried by the wind, and an open cut is a fertile place for infection and damage. The branch is cut entirely, then the cut area is checked. If after stripping the wood is healthy, it means that the disease did not have time to penetrate deeply. The diseased branch is burned, the cut is carefully disinfected and covered with pitch. In the event that the saw cut wood is dark and soft, the tinder fungus most likely hit the entire tree, and it is too late to take action. To prevent the disease from spreading to trees in the garden, cut down and burn the apple tree.
When the cut is rotting, it makes sense to save the tree (grow further) only if the wood is wet, but hard enough.
Video
This video will tell you about putty wounds fruit trees.
conclusions
- Pruning of trees should be carried out annually, cut down the old trunk and branches, dead wood. To speed up the healing process of sections, special putties are used.
- Sections heal most quickly in young twigs - large perennial wounds are difficult to heal.
- To protect the apple orchard from hares, the trunks are wrapped with agrofibre or fenced with fine mesh nets.
Also read what to do if the bark of an apple tree is gnawed by mice in.
If the bark is damaged, no poisons will save. In practice, the preservation and treatment of the bark is almost more important than other protective measures. Literally in every garden there are trees with gnaws, woodworm passages. A common occurrence is the destruction of the bark around dry stumps, and even the owner himself root collar smeared with salidol and wrapped with a rag: a neighbor advised. The trees themselves are also not without flaws: for example, pears form too thick a scab, and cherries and cherries often tear the bark - it is not prone to expansion in them. In almost all cases, it is easy to stop the rot, heal the wound, and even stimulate the growth of new bark. To do this, you need two main attributes: a knife and clay.
NOT JUST WHITEPAPER
Every spring we pray to the God of Order: we whitewash the trees. In fact, this was invented to prevent “bark burns”: in the spring, during the day, the bark heats up, and at night it freezes and, as it were, dies. However, Valery Petrovich Chernyshov from Saratov established more real reason the death of the bark, and even entire stone fruit trees: with a sharp thaw, the buds began to grow, and the earth has not yet thawed - the roots do not give water. The leaves simply suck water out of the tissues, and the tree is completely dehydrated. So, even lime has nothing to do with it. And it’s better not to talk about its sanitary significance at all, it hasn’t killed anyone for a long time.
Meanwhile, since ancient times, European gardeners have been using a mixture of clay, mullein and ash to coat trees. In our old literature, the same composition is often mentioned, but without the ash. Dilute clay with mullein approximately in half to the density of sour cream and apply with a paint brush on the trunk and branches. Such a talker is really useful. Clay keeps on the tree for a long time, protects from the sun and frost, from dry winds, but at the same time it “breathes” perfectly. Mullein sticks together clay and prevents it from falling off, and also contains a lot of nutrition and bioactive substances. The clay is wet - the bark is nourished and stimulated, dried - protects the growing bark. You can add a little lime and vitriol to the talker, and the trees will flaunt a beautiful ocher-salad “clothes”. Personally, I don’t see the point in just decorating trees with whitewash, but if you need to preserve the cambium, heal a wound or rejuvenate the bark, this composition is indispensable. I think two buckets of clay will last you all summer.
HOW TO REJUVENATE THE CORK
Basically, this applies to pears. Especially undersized, grafted on quince. Their bark quickly dies off from the outside, forming a scab that presses on the cambium and prevents it from growing new tissues. There is a scab on old apple trees.
Take a scraper for old paint or an old file - this will be a scrub - and scrape off the entire scab to green scratches - to a layer of young bark. It is best to do this after rain, when the bark is soft. Now apply the mentioned “moisturizing and nourishing cream” to the tree. Over the summer, the bark will thicken, and the tree will revive.
HOW TO HEAL A WOUND
Any rot, cancer, a zone of dead or dying bark should be cut with a knife as soon as possible, without waiting for autumn, with a knife to a healthy greenish bark. Sometimes you have to walk a meter or two along the trunk and branches with a knife, removing entire strips. It often happens that only the upper part of the bark dies, while the cambium under it is still alive, and a stain of bare wood is obtained, slippery from the living cambium. Don't think that a naked cambium is bound to die. He is too fast and active. Of course, in the sun, in the heat it will dry out. But in cloudy weather, it will have time to quickly "endow" new cells and form an integumentary tissue. After a couple of weeks, you look - and in the hole there is a new bark, thin, but completely real! It is a sin not to use such activity: the cambium is exposed - cover the wound and it will remain alive.
After cutting out the rot or dryness, cover the wound with our “balm”, diluted thicker this time, and wrap it with a film or rag on top, but not too tight. After a month and a half or two, remove the bandage: everything that is possible has already grown there, and now in the light and air the tree will quickly complete what is needed. And we can help him increase the outgrowth of the new bark by again holding the "scalpel".
furrowing
Forgotten and very effective reception, allowing to expand the area of the cortex.
Where it is necessary to expand the bark and strengthen the wood, sharp knife carry out a linear longitudinal cut, cutting through the bark and slightly delving into the wood. Cambium immediately begins to heal the furrow, filling it with new tissues, and the volume of the furrowed part increases.
First of all, the trunks of young trees are furrowed. This is especially true for cherries and cherries. Their bark wraps around the trunk in transverse rings. In dry years, it becomes very coarse, shrinks like a collar, and does not allow the cambium to grow new tissues. If after that moisture is in excess, the cambium tears the bark. You have seen such lacerated wounds more than once. To allow the tree to thicken freely, in spring or summer, furrow the trunk on both sides, and the branches on the bottom. If after half an hour the bark has diverged by more than 2-3 mm, it is better to cover the furrow with clay or earth.
Gaucher furrowed both shoots and twigs, and even fruit twigs, if he wanted to strengthen them. But this is of little use to us. But to strengthen the surviving part of the bark is useful. Or speed up the closing of the rootstock stump with the bark of the scion. In both cases, it is necessary to furrow twice: in May and at the end of June. And if you have especially tender feelings for your trees, use our Plinity Lift every time after furrowing. After all, they deserve it!
Healing talker for garden trees.
most in early spring I coat the trunks with a special mixture.
Slices are best covered with pitch. And wounds and cracks - a healing talker.
For a warning sunburn and healing of frost cracks.
I take clay, dilute it with water and insist for at least two days so that all the lumps in the solution soften. And then I add the freshest cow dung to this talker (horse dung is better, but I don’t always manage to get it). the consistency of the mixture resembles 30% fat sour cream or a plastering solution. Those. swollen clay becomes like liquid dough for pies (crush, soak for a day, stirring occasionally, and then strain from solid particles through a 7x7mm mesh - approximately). Then half a bucket of manure is added to half a bucket of clay and stirred again. And then add 100g blue vitriol(about a glass) and mix again. Such a mixture is easy to take with a trowel, brush, it sticks well, does not slip in either a thin or thick layer, and easily takes the shape of a trunk. After drying, light beige color with a turquoise tint. If there are large wounds on the trunk (a large piece of bark is missing or badly damaged).
On top, for reinforcement, it is wrapped with a bandage in one layer. And once again we pass through the bandage with a mixture - with a brush, but a little more liquid consistency.
Manure is suitable for both horse and cow. It can be fresh, it can be stale. Any bird is strictly prohibited - the trunk will get burned
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How to treat damaged bark in fruit trees. Old-fashioned recipes, but all reliable.
(apple, pear, cherry, plum, etc.)
Sunburn, incorrect pruning, sharp hare teeth are the causes of wounds.
1. Affected (tissue) places are cleaned with a garden knife or a chisel from dead tissue, disinfected with a 3% solution of copper sulfate and covered with pitch or a mixture of clay and mullein.
2. In summer, damaged areas can be treated with sorrel. It needs to be torn together with the cuttings, crushed and put on the wound with a layer 1-1.5 cm thick, make a burlap bandage on top. During the summer, this operation should be done 2-3 times. Small wounds should be smeared with BF-6 glue.
3. You can simply wrap the tree trunk with plastic wrap.
Recipes for making garden pitches and putties for garden trees
1. Rustic. Fresh mullein, oily clay (1:1). To stir thoroughly. To give more viscosity, add a little wool (comb from a lazy cat or dog).
2. Forsite ointment (XVII century). Fresh mullein, dry lime ( old plaster), wood ash, river sand (2:1:1:0.25). Only freshly prepared ointment is applied to the wound in an even, thin (2.5 mm) layer and sprinkled with powder from wood ash and chalk (in a ratio of 6:1).
3. Veragutov var. White resin, turpentine, lard, wood tar (6.5:2.5:1.5:1). The resin is heated to a liquid state, turpentine, lard and tar are mixed, a little more turpentine is added to them to make them easier to mix, and combined with resin. Fresh liquid state var is easily applied to the wound with a brush.
4. Reshetnikov putty. 100 g of fir resin, 10 g of pure wax. Drain, heating over low heat, stirring. In a water bath, 120 ml of 90% alcohol is heated, stirring quickly, it is added to the dissolved and slightly cooled mixture of resin and wax. Cooled, but liquid ointment is applied to the wound with a brush. The wound heals very quickly, even if the tree around the circumference is damaged by rodents.
5. Teploliquid var. Resin, rosin, warm wax, melted beef (lamb) fat, sifted wood ash (2:2:1:1:1). Resin, rosin and wax are dissolved over low heat, lard is added and mixed, then ash and everything is thoroughly mixed. Fresh or heated var is applied to the wound with a brush or wooden spatula.
This var can be stored for a long time in a hardened state.
6. Cold liquid var. Almost 500 g of rosin, 10 g of resin, 19 g of lard, 19 g of sifted wood ash. Mix, dissolve. Add 85 ml of 90% alcohol dropwise to the cooling mixture.
7. Paint for putty wounds. Drying oil and ocher (2:1). After mixing, the paint is ready for use. Apply with a brush.
8. Bee glue. They are collected when cleaning the frames and put into action, you can add a little wax.
9. Cold Var Rayevsky. Dissolve 0.5 kg of wood resin. To the cooling resin, stirring, add 60 g of 90% alcohol heated in a water bath. After mixing, add 1-2 tablespoons of drying oil. Pour into a container (made of non-oxidizing materials) and close the lid. It remains in a semi-liquid state and is suitable for use in any weather.
10. Zhukovsky's ointment. Rosin, yellow wax, fresh interior lard (1:1:1). Each component is melted separately, then mixed. The cooling mass is poured into cold water and kneaded in it like dough. Take out and store in oiled paper. Apply in warm weather.
Immersion of the roots in a clay mash is not a whim of agronomists. This technique is necessary to prevent drying of the roots, to facilitate transportation. Improve contact with the soil, and the stimulant and trace elements introduced into it will improve rooting. In general, if the weather is cloudy outside, then the seedlings in a clay mash do not dry out for up to seven days or even more.
Preparing a chatterbox is easy. A hole is dug in the garden, one or two bayonets of a shovel deep. A couple of buckets of water are poured into it and clay and earth are gradually rolled off the walls with a shovel, evenly shoveling the mixture until the consistency of sour cream is obtained. After that, one-two bags of Kornevin and 0.5 l of ash are added to one pit, everything is thoroughly mixed again.
Mineral fertilizers can also be added. But here it is important to observe the dosage, which is problematic in such a pit, so it’s better not to risk it. It remains only to evenly dip the roots of the seedlings into the talker and, shaking them a little, take them out to a shady place. The roots in the mash do not dry out for a long time, so you can take your time with rags and bags.
Chatterbox is useful not only for trees and shrubs, but also for raspberries and strawberries. Only for them the talker should be cooked thinner.
How not to harm in an attempt to rejuvenate a tree?
How to make a rejuvenating pruning? Such questions often concern beginner summer residents, because sometimes, when purchasing a summer cottage, you get old fruit trees of good, favorite varieties as a load. Cutting down such a colossus is not easy, and it’s a pity, but it’s still a long time to wait for a new harvest from newly planted trees.
You can restore good fruiting by rejuvenating pruning, i.e. limiting the growth of the tree in length and width.
Usually gardeners, for their convenience, simply shorten the crown of apple trees, without thinking that the leading branches should be transferred to the side ones. Some strong branches that thicken the center of the crown should be cut into a ring or bent and fixed in such a position that the upper part of the crown opens and “breathes”.
Do not rush to remove several thick branches at once, this can lead to unnecessary tops and wounds, which will then be difficult to heal. Untreated wounds on the tree will inevitably lead to freezing, disease and crop loss.
We call rejuvenating pruning chasing. It is better to carry out this procedure in more than one year, and ideally it is better to choose a lean season, because. an old or thickened fruit tree still needs sanitary pruning, and in simple crown thinning.
Sick, damaged branches and shoots must be removed in the spring before the onset of sap flow. At the same time, it is good to lower the crown. Each gardener has in his arsenal a tool for smearing saw cuts, it is advisable to spray the wound with a disinfectant solution.
I usually use a weak solution of copper sulfate, then I let the saw cut dry and cover it with garden pitch. I noticed that someone paints saw cuts with ordinary paint based on drying oil - this is not the best option, because over time, the wound can leak and grow. All anti-aging pruning work is best done on a clear, not overcast day.
Trees weakened after pruning first of all need top dressing and mulching trunk circles, be sure to spray from diseases and pests, because while your apple tree or pear was without the attention of the owners, most likely it was subject to both.
There is also forced pruning of trees - this is when in winter the branches broke off under the weight of snow, then it is necessary to cut down the broken branch and treat the wound; it is desirable not to be hard frost and the trunk was dry.
If upon purchase suburban area your hands dropped from the sight of neglected or old apple trees, do not lose heart! Just choose a time in very early spring, find a reliable stepladder, process saws, hacksaws and secateurs with potassium permanganate and slowly start rejuvenating your fruit trees. If the previous owners planted this variety at one time and did not cut down the tree for so many years, then there is no doubt that the variety is excellent, just save it - and you will be rewarded with your first harvest!
Healing talker for trees
Proper and timely care of fruit trees is a guarantee good harvest. Therefore, already in the very early spring, I coat the trunks of my trees with a medicinal talker.
Slices are best covered with pitch. And the wounds and cracks are just a talker. I do this procedure to prevent sunburn and heal frost cracks.
So, I take clay, dilute it with water and insist for at least two days so that all the lumps in the solution get wet, periodically stir. Then I filter through a grid with cells 7 × 7. I add fresh to this talker horse dung(half a bucket of clay - half a bucket of manure) and stir again.
Finally, I add 100 g of copper sulfate (about a glass) and mix thoroughly again. This mixture is easy to take with a trowel, brush, it sticks well, does not slip when applied even in a thin or thick layer. If there are large wounds on the trunk, then after treatment with a talker I wrap them with a bandage in one layer, and once again I pass through the bandage with a brush.
My dacha neighbor adds lime and 1/2 a bar of tar soap to such a talker. A very effective tool!
