Plastic windows and balconies for air conditioning. How to install a window air conditioner yourself in a wooden window How to insert an air conditioner in a plastic window
As a rule, they try to install centralized air conditioners in combination with a heating system in order to use its wiring of ducts to cool the air throughout the house.
The conditioner is mounted in a supply part of the heating furnace. Also, the air conditioner serves as an air filter, cleaning the air of dust and drying it (reduces humidity).
The device of the air conditioning system
A standard air conditioning system consists of two separate units: a cooling unit and a condensing unit. The cooling unit is an evaporator located at the top of the furnace.
In this evaporator, a mixture of water and antifreeze (in other words, refrigerant) circulates, which takes heat from the air that is driven over the evaporator using a stove fan.
Diagram of a typical central air conditioning system. Essential elements:
- cooled air enters the rooms;
- the capacitor is mounted outside the house;
- compressor;
- pipes are installed between the radiators for evaporation and condensation, through which the refrigerant circulates;
- furnace furnace for air heating;
- drainage of the evaporation-condensation system;
- drainage laid in the floor;
- supply part;
- evaporator;
- air flow return box;
- gas outlet pipe;
- a tank where condensation and evaporation take place;
- fan;
- air conditioner filter.
The cooled air follows the ducts and is distributed throughout all the rooms of your house. The heated refrigerant, in turn, goes to be cooled in the condensing unit, which is located outside the house. The condensing block consists of a compressor, a fan and a radiator-condenser.
Elements of an industrial central air conditioning system installed on the roof of a building.
The refrigerant coming from the first unit first enters the compressor, which heats it up even more and sends it to the condenser radiator. The fan drives the cold outdoor air through the radiator-condenser in which the heated refrigerant circulates, thus taking heat from the refrigerant. The cooled refrigerant flows back to the evaporator and the cycle repeats again.
Maintenance of the central air conditioning system
In order for your air conditioning system to work long and efficiently, it is necessary to periodically do some work on it.
Filter cleaning
Try to clean or change the filter as often as possible. It is advisable to do this at least once a month. If during inspection you find even a small amount of dust on it, clean or replace it. Most ovens come with cheap replacement filters, so when buying a new one, make sure it's the right size and thickness.
The air conditioner filter is often clogged.
If the filter can be cleaned, wash it with household detergents in warm water. You should know that a dirty filter is not only an obstacle to the passage of air, which is fraught with increased energy consumption, but a favorable environment for the formation and development of various pathogens.
Radiator cleaning
Keep radiators clean. If the design allows access to the evaporative radiator, vacuum it. The external condensing radiator must be periodically cleaned of leaves and debris.
When cleaning, be careful not to bend the radiator fins, as deformed fins will significantly reduce the efficiency of the system. If you need to remove any cover, turn off the power first.
Regularly clean the radiator in the air conditioning system.
Try to check every year if the concrete pad on which the condensing unit is standing has sagged, as for normal operation the block must be level. If necessary, put wooden blocks under it to level it.
Check the furnace hearth for suction cups. Suction cups often cause a huge influx of cold air before it enters the boxes. All joints must be sealed with aluminum foil tape.
Checking the fan belt
Also check the tension of the fan drive belt from time to time. When you press it in the middle, the deflection should be 19 mm. If the deflection is greater, it means that the belt is tightened too loosely, which can lead to belt slippage during operation and, as a result, a drop in fan performance.
Over time, an impressive layer of dirt forms in the air conditioning blower wheel.
In addition, this can lead to scorching on the belt and its early wear. If, when starting the system, you constantly hear a squeal coming from the unit, and during operation you smell burnt rubber, know that the belt is too loose.
Too tight belt tension, in which the deflection of its middle during pressing is less than 19 mm, leads to accelerated wear of the motor and fan bearings.
The process of tightening or loosening the fan drive belt can be seen in the corresponding diagram.
Cleaning the drain tube and removing condensate
Check that the evaporative condensate condensate drain is open. As a rule, the drain is a small tube. If the tube does not allow running water to pass through, remove the obstructions by clearing it with a wire. You can also use a garden hose and clean the drain pipe with pressurized water.
Put a hose on the tube and turn on the water for a few seconds. Then remove the hose and allow the remaining water to drain on its own. Rinse again if necessary. If you need to clean the condensation tray from dust, disconnect the device from the mains and only then can you open the evaporator chamber.
Cleaning the drain tube with improvised means.
Although most motors are factory lubricated once and for all their life, some may have lubrication points that require periodic lubrication. Such points should be lubricated once a season with two or three drops of No. 20 oil without detergents. Do not add too much oil, otherwise the engine electronics may be damaged.
window air conditioner
The principle of operation of a room air conditioner is similar to that of the central air conditioning system at home. Perhaps only the design differs: in a room air conditioner, the condenser and the evaporative unit are in the same housing.
The main functions of a room air conditioner include cooling the air and circulating it around the room, lowering the overall humidity in the house, and finally, filtering the air from dust and other small harmful particles.
The structure of a typical room air conditioner. Elements:
- radiator, aka capacitor;
- compressor;
- the condenser fan removes heat from the refrigerant and transfers it to the outside air;
- cold air enters the room through the grille;
- exhaust vent;
- fan;
- evaporative radiator;
- filter;
- control;
- air from the room passes through the filter.
What is a window air conditioner
As we noted above, all room air conditioner systems are located in a single housing. This case is mounted in a window during installation in such a way that the blower fan and evaporative condenser are located inside the house, and the compressor, radiator-condenser and fans are outside.
A beautiful window air conditioner from Samsung can even become a decoration for the interior of a room.
The indoor fan draws room air through the cold evaporator heatsink where the refrigerant picks up heat. The same fan then returns the already cooled air back to the house. The heated refrigerant enters the radiator-condenser, which is located on the outside of the house. Through this radiator, with the help of fans of the condensing unit, street air is driven, which removes heat from the refrigerant.
Types and varieties
Each type of window has its own air conditioner model. Most models are equipped with special side panels, which, if necessary, can be opened and filled in the free area of the window that is not filled with the air conditioner body.
To prevent air leakage from the house, it is necessary to carefully seal the joints of the panels with window frame. There are models of air conditioning devices for installation in windows with drop-down and sliding frames, as well as for narrow vertical windows.
An example of window air conditioner models for different types of window frames. Main components:
- removable frame;
- plywood panel;
- glazed frame;
- cold air grille;
- filter grille;
- panel, adjustable in width.
There are air conditioners designed to work with a voltage of 120 volts and 240 volts. As a rule, most of the contours of a residential building skip electricity under a voltage of 120 volts and a power of 15 amperes.
Circuits such as, for example, kitchen, conduct electricity with indicators of 120V and 20A. Before you buy a room air conditioner, decide on the place of its installation and find out if the wiring of this room will withstand the load that it will give. If you are having difficulty with this, it is better to consult an electrician on this issue.
What to Consider When Choosing a Window Air Conditioner
In addition, when choosing an air conditioner, you need to consider another important factor: its power and the size of the room in which you are going to install it. If the room is large and the air conditioner is not powerful enough for it, cooling will not occur as much as necessary.
The LG window air conditioner cheekily sticks out of the window of a wooden house.
Conversely, if the room is small and the air conditioner is too powerful, it will work for a short time and will not have time to remove all the moisture and dust from the air. In this case, the room will seem damp.
If possible, try to install the air conditioner in a window that faces the north or east side of your home. This will ensure that he is in the shade during the hot time of the day and, accordingly, will allow him to work most efficiently.
Secrets of the correct installation
If you live in the southern hemisphere of our planet, then it is advisable to install the air conditioner in the southern or eastern parts your house. The operation of the air conditioner should not be interfered with by any foreign objects. At the place of its installation outside, bushes and other possible obstacles must be removed, and inside the house, make sure that it is not covered by furniture or curtains.
Installing a window air conditioner is not at all difficult, especially with two people.
It is recommended that after installing the air conditioner, check the voltage in its circuit and make sure that it is optimal for operation. To do this, use a voltmeter. Insert its plugs into one part of the double socket, and the plug of the air conditioner into the second. Turning on the air conditioner should not cause the voltage in the outlet to drop more than 10 volts or below 108 volts.
If the voltage drops below the specified minimum, then the circuit wiring is too weak to operate this air conditioner. In this case, there are two options: either you need to replace the wire in the circuit with another one with a larger diameter, or connect the air conditioner to a more powerful circuit.
If 240 volts is required to cool the room, then it is desirable to conduct a separate circuit in such a room. As a rule, most rooms are not equipped with 240 volt wiring.
Video on the correct installation of a window air conditioner with your own hands
A simple and clear video instruction for installing an external window air conditioner from LG.
Rules for installing a window air conditioner
Depending on which model of air conditioner you have purchased, you need to carry out a certain installation procedure. Consider some general rules installation.
If your air conditioner is equipped with side sealing panels, these should be installed first. They are attached to the window frame with screws. As indicated above, these panels are designed to close the openings that may form between the air conditioner and the frame.
Installing an air conditioning system in a window opening begins with a drill.
If the air conditioner is not big size, then it can be inserted into the opening as a whole. After inserting, fix it on the windowsill or frame.
If the air conditioner is large, you should first fix its empty case in the opening, having previously removed its chassis, and only then return the chassis with the equipment back to the case.
If it turned out that the air conditioner housing protrudes more than 305 mm beyond the window sill, additional support consoles must be installed. Using rubber gaskets, seal all joints of the housing with the window frame, window sill and side panels.
Installing a room air conditioner in an external wall
In the process of installing the air conditioner in an external wall, the following procedure must be observed. Before you start cutting the opening for the body of the air conditioning device, outline its outline on the inner surface of the wall.
It makes sense to install the room air conditioner as high as possible, since the cold air that will be produced, being heavier than the warm air, sinks to the floor, and the warm air rises. As a result, the effect of the cooled air will be felt longer than if the air conditioner was at the bottom.
Stages of installing a room window air conditioner in an external wall. Essential elements:
- the upper trim of the frame, made of double timber;
- take out the thermal insulation;
- open the frame racks located in the window opening;
- lower trim of the window frame;
- make holes in each corner on the inside of the wall;
- saw through the lining between the holes with a circular saw or a hacksaw;
- outer cladding;
- foundation.
Stages of work:
- measure the hull and double bar bottom strapping for a window opening, plus the upper trim of the opening;
- add a strapping beam, and racks;
- add a new common rack;
- you will also need a double beam of the lower trim;
- the rest of the rack;
- wall frame base.
Wooden architraves and finished wall.
The opening of the opening itself can be cut with a dry plaster saw, a hacksaw or a tool knife. You need to cut through until the posts in the wall are visible. The air conditioner will be attached to them. When cutting the hole, be careful not to hit electrical wiring or plumbing.
In order to be able to inspect the sinus in the wall, it is recommended to cut the opening in small parts. If you come across electrical wiring or a pipeline covered with thermal insulation, remove it, and lay the wires and pipes along a new route.
A modern Kenmore air conditioner installed in the window opening.
Next, holes need to be drilled at the corners of the proposed opening. You need to drill them through the entire wall from outer skin before interior cladding. Then, working with outer side, using manual circular saw cut a hole. During this operation, you may come across nails.
The racks that are in the opening must be cut out in such a way that there is room for the air conditioner, the beam of the upper trim of the opening and the double beam of the lower trim. The opening must be made wider than the air conditioner housing by about 6-13 mm. Since the work takes place with one of the load-bearing walls, if necessary, install a temporary support for the ceiling in the form of several bars. As a backup, you can use bars 2x4 (5x10 cm). Such impromptu racks should hold a horizontal board against the ceiling.
When finished with the opening, make its strapping to bring its dimensions in line with the dimensions of the room air conditioner body. The load from the ceiling or the second floor must be carried by the strapping.
Chassis and Chassis Installation
Finally place the chassis in the opening and insert the chassis with the equipment into it.
How is the air conditioner installed in the window opening. First of all, the sliding panel is attached to the frame and window sill according to the existing instructions:
- attach the sliding panel to the sliding frame and window sill;
- outer and inner parts of the window sill;
- sliding frame;
- attach the frame to the sliding frame;
- seal the joint with the side panel.
- If the housing protrudes from the joint by more than 305 mm beyond the window sill, support brackets must be mounted.
- Insert the housing into the window opening and attach to the sliding frame and window sill.
- Insert the air conditioner chassis into the housing and secure it.
- Level check the placement of the air conditioner and ensure a slight tilt back.
- Use the adjusting screws to mount the case using a level.
Then caulk the joints, repair the wall where necessary, and nail trim around the air conditioner. Ready!
IN modern world window air conditioners have become almost an integral part of a comfortable existence in a room, whether it is a personal living space or an office. Such air conditioners can be found in every second apartment. They are attracted by their affordability and ease of use. In addition to cooling the room (and some models also work as heaters), the window air conditioner also cleans the air from dust, poplar fluff, and so on.
Air conditioners are mounted in a wall or a window opening. Each air conditioner is a one-piece housing, which contains all the parts necessary for successful operation: evaporator, condenser, compressor, fan, etc. The window air conditioner assumes operation on an area of about 60 square meters. Temperature characteristics are individual for each brand.
If you decide to purchase this desired household appliance First of all, you should decide on the room in which you want to install a window air conditioner. For example, for bedroom fit model with low noise characteristics, and for the kitchen, the option with the highest power is preferable. Currently, the choice of so-called "windows" is very large. Models differ in power, in control (in most cases this is an electromechanical option, but you can also choose a completely electronic one), in a set of functions offered in each case.
Installation rules
Of course, one of the main advantages of a window air conditioner is the ease of installation. For this, it is not necessary to attract specialists; it is quite possible to do it on your own. When doing this, it must be remembered that the width of the air conditioner must be less than the width of the window and that the air conditioner must not be blocked by blinds or curtains.
1. So, for self-installation of a window air conditioner, you will need to make a hole in the wall or window opening (about 0.5-1 cm. over size window air conditioner of your choice).
2. In this opening, a special frame with a slope made of a steel profile with a shelf width of 3-4 cm should be fixed, on which the air conditioner itself is located.
3. Plug in the air conditioner.
4. Treat the gaps between the air conditioner case and the frame itself with mounting foam.
The whole process takes quite a bit of time and is very simple, but you should pay attention to some important nuances:
1. When installing a window air conditioner, avoid distortion and leave no gaps between the air conditioner body and the window frame.
2. You need to choose a place in the shade, where the device will not get dirt or precipitation. If necessary, a special visor is fixed above the air conditioner, protecting it from unwanted influences.
3. The distance between the ceiling and the body of the appliance should be at least 17-20 cm, otherwise the air conditioner will work less efficiently.
4. The side louvers of the window air conditioner must communicate with the outside environment, so a part of the appliance must hang in the air outside.
5. If you have chosen a powerful model of window air conditioner for yourself, then it is advisable to make a separate wiring for it.
Window air conditioners are as easy to operate as they are to install, which explains their great popularity. In order for the device you have chosen to work effectively for a long time and create the desired comfort in the room you need:
- Rinse the air conditioner air filter from dirt about once a week.
- Once a year, use a vacuum cleaner to clean the internal and external heat exchanger of the air conditioner.
- IN winter conditions at temperatures below -10ºС, the air conditioner can only be used in ventilation mode. It should also be noted that at negative temperatures, condensate can freeze, and there is a danger that the blades, touching the ice, will destroy your device.
- By following all these rules, you will achieve a long and efficient operation of your air conditioner. Comfort for you and your home!
Not so long ago, some 20 years ago, air conditioners were considered the lot of either big bosses or very wealthy citizens. In fact, these air conditioners were located in “high” offices, luxury hotel rooms or, much less often, in the own homes of wealthy people. However, at present, the convenience household appliances appreciated by the widest sections of the population, it has ceased to be unaffordable, and now no one is surprised by air conditioners that are installed almost everywhere.
As a rule, firms involved in the sale of climate equipment, in most cases, take care of its installation, debugging and commissioning. Of course, this service is not free, and its cost can be quite significant even against the background of the price of the air conditioner itself. Therefore, probably, potential buyers are often concerned about the question - is it necessary to resort to the help of craftsmen? Is it possible to install an air conditioner?
There is no single answer to this question. And the air conditioners themselves are different, and the levels of technical preparedness of homeowners can vary significantly. Besides, great importance has a specific location of the living quarters in which it is planned to install such a device - very often it is simply impossible to make an independent installation without specialized equipment, equipment or construction equipment.
And in order to immediately be able to assess the complexity of the task, you need at least a little understanding of the principle of operation of the air conditioning unit - due to what does the sharp cooling of the air passing through it occur?
Basic principles domestic air conditioner operation
If we argue from the standpoint of physical laws, then in order for cooling to occur in one place of a certain balanced system, then in another area this must be compensated by appropriate heating. How to achieve this?
Everyone knows that the evaporation of a liquid from the surface of an object is always accompanied by the absorption of heat and, accordingly, the rapid cooling of this surface. Suffice it to recall that, for example, a wet palm feels much more cool than a dry one. Wet compresses on the forehead of the sick person when the temperature rises is also one of the practices use of this principle. Conversely, the condensation of steam in liquid state passes with the release of heat. This means that it is necessary to create conditions so that in one single system the liquid in one area actively evaporates, and in the other - under the influence of some external influence condensed, giving off heat. This is how almost all refrigerators, freezers and air conditioners are arranged.
circuit diagram operation of any air conditioner is shown in the following figure:
This unit can be divided into two halves - external and internal. In split systems, this division occurs “literally” - with the division into the corresponding blocks. In monoblock models, this is not so noticeable visually, since the entire structure is arranged in a single case, but the principle of operation does not change.
So, both the external and internal parts of the air conditioning unit have their own tubular radiator, although they perform exactly the opposite functions. In the outdoor unit, it plays the role of a condenser, and in the indoor unit, it acts as an evaporator. They are interconnected by sealed pipelines. A special substance, the so-called refrigerant, is constantly pumped through this closed circuit with the help of a compressor.
The main requirement for such a refrigerant is a fairly high boiling point compared to atmospheric gases, the absence of the likelihood of freezing (transition to a solid state of aggregation), and high volatility. At the dawn of the production of refrigeration units and air conditioners, ammonia was most often used in this capacity. However, the vapors of this chemical compound are very dangerous for the human body, and therefore, over time, it was everywhere replaced by freons - special synthetic gases (or mixtures of gases) designed specifically for such purposes. Until recently, R-22 freon was most often used in most air conditioners, but in a number of countries its use is already banned, as a substance that leads to the destruction of the Earth's ozone layer. More modern, perfect and safer is R-410A freon. The boiling point, that is, the active transition from liquid to gaseous state at normal atmospheric pressure they have about minus 50 ° C.
Regular factory "packages" various types freon
However, as is known from the course of thermodynamics, the process of a phase transition of a substance from one state of aggregation to another depends not only and even not so much on temperature as on pressure. This means that by means of special devices it is necessary to create conditions for active condensation of the refrigerant outside, respectively, evaporation inside the room. This is achieved by the operation of the compressor and the presence of a special throttle device (thermostatic valve).
If we consider in more detail the cycle of work, then it looks like this:
- At the inlet to the compressor, the refrigerant is in a gaseous state at a relatively low pressure.
- The compressor ensures the movement of freon through the system, while significantly increasing the degree of its compression before entering the condenser radiator. An increase in pressure is, of course, accompanied by a significant increase in temperature. The flow of cold outside air supplied by the fan removes heat, simultaneously activating the process of condensation of the refrigerant - its transition to a semi-liquid state.
- Moving through the pipes, before entering the evaporator, freon passes through a throttle device - a thermostatic valve. Due to the special configuration of the passage, the pressure in the line drops sharply, which causes a rapid, almost avalanche-like boiling of the refrigerant with its evaporation, transition to a gaseous state and, accordingly, a sharp drop in temperature.
- The indoor fan blows the room air through the evaporator radiator. with its cooling.
- From the evaporator, freon enters the compressor unit again, thus, the cycle is closed.
The design of the throttle device can be different - from a capillary tube to a complex multi-way valve, which allows not only to accurately control the freon cooling temperature. Such a mechanism is able to "redirect" the activity of the units, turning the evaporator into a condenser and vice versa - this is used when switching many models of air conditioners to the "winter" mode - to heating the room.
Of course, modern air conditioners are high-tech devices with a lot of additional control, management, and service functions, but their principle of operation is the same.
The main types of household air conditioners
It is impossible to understand the rules for installing air conditioners if, in addition to the principle of operation, one does not understand the design features of various types of these household appliances.
First of all, everything can be divided into two large categories - monoblock (collected in one box) and split systems (having two separate units or more).
Monoblock air conditioners
The entire circuit diagram of the air conditioner is assembled in one housing. The "external" and "internal" working units will be separated by a baffle, which in many models is adjustable, allowing air to penetrate from the room to the outside and back for ventilation or recovery.
By the way of installation, they can also have differences:
- Window air conditioners- the name speaks for itself. The unit is installed in a window opening, so that the main part of the body is outside, and only the control panel and blinds remain in the room to direct the cooled air flow.
The advantages of such a scheme are obvious:
- All internal pipelines have already been assembled at the factory, refilling with freon has been carried out in the same place, that is, the installation of the air conditioner itself is greatly simplified, and comes down mainly to general construction or carpentry work.
- Such models allow you to work in the mode forced ventilation premises.
- The price of such air conditioners is low, and if we take into account the absence of the need for complex installation, then from the point of view of efficiency, this — best option.
There are also many disadvantages.
- A sufficiently large monoblock seriously reduces the intensity of the light flux from the window, reducing the natural illumination of the room (often, in order to avoid this, monoblocks are mounted in a specially made opening in the wall).
- The air conditioner itself winter time becomes a "bridge of cold" from the street to the room. It is necessary to think over its dismantling for this time with a hermetic insulated closing of the opening, or in some other way to solve the problem of thermal insulation.
- Such an air conditioner does not fit well into the system of double-glazed windows, unless, of course, when installing PVC windows, its installation was not thought out in advance.
Monoblock "windows" fit well into the interior of the room
- A monoblock air conditioner is “tied” to one place, and it will not always be able to evenly distribute the cooled air throughout the entire volume of the room. In addition, window curtains, curtains, blinds, etc. often interfere with this.
- As a rule, such air conditioners are distinguished by a fairly high level of noise.
- Mobile monobloc air conditioners – mobile (usually equipped with wheels for ease of movement) devices that are installed as needed in a particular room. Externally. As a rule, they resemble a bedside table with system guide blinds on the body and control devices.
Both the condenser and the evaporator are arranged in one housing. Be sure to have a flexible sleeve to remove warm air from the condenser to the outside, outside the room.
Advantages of this type of air conditioner:
- Completely eliminates the need for complex installation - no connections, sealing, refills, electrical connections and so on . Everything is according to the principle - "plug it in and use it", you just need to bring the flexible sleeve out through the window or hole in the wall or window block. (There are, however, more complex models, which even have an external unit. But this variety, perhaps, can even be attributed to split systems, since the installation of such air conditioners takes more than one hour, and they can be called mobile only with a very big “stretch” ").
- It is possible to rearrange the air conditioner from room to room, take it with you to the country house, it is not difficult to clean it up for storage in winter.
Disadvantages of the "mobile" scheme:
- Mobility is rather conditional, as it is limited by the length of the corrugated sleeve for the output of heated air. Usually this is no more than 1.5 ÷ 2 m from the window.
- The water condensate resulting from the cooling of the air is not discharged to the outside, but accumulates in the air conditioner pan. Thus, regular maintenance is required - draining the accumulated water, otherwise the device simply stops.
These air conditioners are quite noisy.
- The cost of such a device is very high, comparable to the price of a high-quality split system with disproportionately lower performance.
- Like it or not, but such an air conditioner clutters up the room, especially if it is a small area.
Split systems
Of all modern air conditioners they are now the most common. Their main feature is that the condensation and pairing units are made in different housings and spaced apart - installed outside and inside the room. At the same time, all the noisiest units of the air conditioner (in particular, the compressor unit) are taken out into the street, that is general level the noise of such an air conditioner is minimal.
What is the approximate layout of air conditioners, made according to the principle of a split system? Certainly, at different manufacturers and in various models may have their own characteristics, but the general scheme is about the same.
To start - outdoor unit.
The fan (pos. 1) on the axis of the electric motor serves to create, as necessary, an air flow to remove heat from the radiator - condenser (pos. 2)
The refrigerant pumping and maintaining the required pressure in its circulation circuit is provided by the compressor (pos. 3). This unit can be piston (cheaper and noisier) or spiral (more expensive, but more reliable, especially at low air temperatures).
The electronics unit (pos. 4) - by the way, can be located not in the external, but in the internal unit, where it will be less affected external environment. Ensures the correct operation of all electrical and electronic systems and mechanisms.
A mandatory element is a thermostatic valve (pos. 5). This figure shows a variant using a four-way valve, typical for winter-summer models, working both for air cooling and heating.
As a rule, on the right end part of the outdoor unit from below (pos. 6) there are fitting connections, through which the connection with the indoor unit is made. For greater safety, this unit is usually covered with a protective cover (pos. 8). Usually, on the same side, only from above, there is a terminal part for electrical switching of both units.
Before the line enters the compressor, a special freon filter is usually mounted, which should not allow small particles, such as copper chips or other inclusions, to enter the system along with the refrigerant.
Now - the structure and layout of the indoor unit. However, if there is usually monotony with the external block, then several options are possible here, depending on specific type split systems.
The most common - wall blocks split systems
- So, air conditioners can be wall-mounted - the most widespread in residential conditions. The internal block is placed on a wall in a place, convenient for the user.
- If it is required to organize cooling and ventilation of air in several rooms, then they often resort to installing a channel split system, which is usually placed above a false ceiling.
- The cassette-type split system unit is placed in the same plane with the ceiling and provides uniform air distribution in all directions. Such air conditioners fit very well into the interior of the premises with suspended ceilings modular design.
One outdoor unit and several indoor - multi-split system
- Finally, one outdoor unit can be equipped with several indoor units of one type or another. This kit is called multi-split system.
Nevertheless, as already mentioned, in the conditions of private houses and apartments, the most widespread are wall split systems. The schematic diagram of just such a block will be discussed below:
- The outer plastic casing (pos. 1) of the unit is, in fact, a grill with holes for air intake. This panel can be easily removed for maintenance work.
- Under it there is a coarse air filter (pos. 2) - a fine-meshed polymer mesh to trap dust suspended in the air, pet hair, etc. Such a filter should be cleaned regularly - usually at least once a month.
- In many air conditioners, fine filters and (or) air deodorization (item 3) are also installed. They can be of various types - coal, electrostatic and others.
- The movement of air flows in the room is provided by a fan built into the unit (pos. 4), which, as a rule, has the ability to adjust the rotation speed in multiple stages.
By the way, the comfort of perception of the microclimate in the room largely depends on the intensity of the air flow. So, with an increase in the speed of air movement, you can save on much higher energy costs for its cooling (the effect of a conventional fan):
| air speed flow m/s | She is km/h | Perceived cooling effect (minus degrees C) |
|---|---|---|
| 0,1 | 0,36 | 0 |
| 0.25 | 0.9 | 0,5 |
| 1.5 | 5.4 | 4 |
| 3 | 10.5 | 6 |
| 5 | 18,0 | 7 |
| 8 | 28,8 | 8 |
| 10 | 36,0 | 9 |
- The process of evaporation and rapid cooling takes place in the evaporative radiator of the unit (pos. 5) - a system of thin tubes with refrigerant circulating through them.
- The direction of the air flow is set by the louvre systems. Horizontal (pos. 6) regulate the movement of cooled air in the vertical plane. They can stand still or change their position in accordance with the chosen program of work. Vertical louvres (item 8) direct the flow in a horizontal direction. For inexpensive models, they are most often manually adjusted, and some premium air conditioners have the ability to remote control them.
- Indication and control panel (item 7) - usually includes a remote control signal receiver window, several LEDs and an indicator panel. Serves to display the operating modes of the air conditioner, signals possible malfunctions or system failures. Sometimes the panel may have several buttons for manual control of the system.
They are not visible on the diagram, but several more important elements require mandatory mention:
- In the lower part behind, under the decorative casing, there are two copper pipe with switching fittings - for connection with an external unit.
- The process of intensive cooling of the air in the room is always accompanied by the abundant formation of condensate on the radiator tubes. The condensed moisture flows into a special tray, from where it is removed to the outside through a laid drainage tube.
- Under the decorative casing, there is an electronics board and a patch panel for connecting the electrical part of the split system. A network cable is connected here to connect the power supply and wires connecting the outdoor unit to the indoor unit.
After the reader has got an idea about the design and principles of operation of domestic air conditioners, it will be easier for him to understand the rules for their installation.
Find out, as well as familiarize yourself with a few simple models, from our new article.
Prices for the range of air conditioners
Air conditioners
How to install an air conditioner with your own hands
In order not to cause unnecessary illusions in readers, it must be said right away that the installation of any air conditioner (with the possible exception of a mobile one) is a task of a high level of complexity and increased danger. This is due to the fact that the process is accompanied by the installation of very heavy blocks, and often work is carried out on high altitude which requires special care and skill of the installer.
In addition, we must not forget that air conditioners are complex equipment which must only be installed by specialists. Thus, carrying out an independent installation, with a probability close to 100%, will deprive the owner of any manufacturer's warranty obligations, both in terms of after-sales service , and for replacement or repair work in case of revealing a factory defect.
If the installation of a monoblock is not associated with laying pipelines, drying, filling and sealing the circuit, then when installing a split system, all this technologically complex specific process falls on the installer. And here special tools are also required, which, as a rule, do not exist in the usual "arsenal" home master, and high skills in performing such operations.
Therefore, before undertaking an independent installation of an air conditioner, it is necessary to repeatedly and very deeply think over the complexity of the upcoming operations, soberly assess your capabilities so that it does not turn out that saving on calling a team of installers can turn into global losses in the form of completely damaged equipment.
Nevertheless, the article will consider the main technological methods for installing air conditioners - window monoblocks and wall-mounted split systems.
Installation of a window monoblock air conditioner
The main difficulty in installing the "window" is to choose the right place for it, cut and decorate the opening, securely fix the block in it. There are no other difficulties - with switching pipes and filling the system - the air conditioner, as a rule, goes on sale in a completely ready-to-use form.
The picture shows basic principles placement of a window monoblock. The height must not be less than 750 mm. The distance from the rear radiator of the outer part to any obstacle is at least 500 mm. The air conditioner can be built into a window or into an opening made in the wall. But in this case, the wall thickness should not exceed 250 mm, otherwise the side shutters for the air intake involved in cooling the condenser radiator will be closed.
- The block must be installed at a slight slope outward, about 1 degree. This is necessary so that the resulting condensate flows freely through the drain pipe to the street, without accumulating in a large amount in the pan.
- From above, the air conditioner from the outside must be covered with a visor - from precipitation and from direct sunlight, especially if the windows face south or southwest. At the same time, this protection should in no case interfere with the free circulation of air from all sides of the unit.
- If the air conditioner will be installed through a window, then it is necessary to choose the optimal place for it - so that the gaps between the uprights and the crossbars of the frame and the unit body are minimal. At the same time, it must be taken into account that at least 100 mm must remain on each side of the block for servicing the device, free air passage.
- Next, proceed to the design of the opening for the air conditioner. Here you have to show carpentry- it is necessary to remove the glass, mount a new jumper, cut the glass to a new size and install it in place.
- In order for a massive block to stand steadily and not vibrate, it is best to install it on a specially prepared mounting frame made of steel or aluminum corner. The design of such a frame bracket can be different, it depends on the specific installation conditions - you just need to “spread your brains” a little. The main thing is that it has a reliable support on stable contraction elements (walls, ceiling, floor, upper edge of the window opening, etc.), ensures a stable position of the air conditioner, without longitudinal or transverse play.
- Home appliance stores often sell such mounting kits. They can also be made independently according to the dimensions of the monoblock, having made a welded structure or collapsible, bolted.
- The operation of the air conditioner is always accompanied by a sufficiently sensitive vibration, therefore, before installation, it is necessary to provide damper gaskets (rubber or rubber-plastic).
- Be sure to close and seal the gaps between the air conditioner housing and the frame elements (or wall). Mounting foam cannot be used here - you will have to close the holes with other elastic materials, for example, foam blocks (tapes). Narrow gaps can be filled silicone sealant. Then the openings, as a rule, are closed with additionally cut-to-size pieces of expanded polystyrene, and on top with decorative panels.
- After installing the air conditioner on site, be sure to install it on drainage hole outlet tube. Most often, a corrugated plastic tube with a diameter of 16 mm is used, although some craftsmen prefer to perform a more “major” drain from metal-plastic pipe. In any case, the drainage flow should not have kinks (loops) with the formation air locks, impeding the outflow of moisture, should not touch the ground or the surface of the liquid in the storage tank.
- The last step is to connect the air conditioner to the mains. Be sure to follow the recommendations for running a separate power line with your machine, for maintaining the required wire cross-section, depending on, for connecting the air conditioner housing to the ground loop (through a special three-pin plug and socket).
- As assured installation work test run can be done. At the same time, it is necessary to once again check the quality of fastening, tighten all fasteners as much as possible in order to prevent increased vibration of the device - it is quite noisy in itself, and poor-quality installation will greatly increase this noise.
Video: installation of a window air conditioner - monoblock
The sequence of installation of a split system
Before proceeding to consider this issue, it would be useful to make a number of important remarks:
So that there are no complaints against the administration of the portal, it can be repeated that, in her opinion, it is not necessary to carry out independent installation of a split system without experience in such work. The reasons have already been mentioned above.
Each air conditioner model has its own installation nuances, which are detailed in the attached technical documentation. Therefore, the sequence of work and some features may not coincide.
Many operations for the installation of split systems must be carried out on the street, outside building wall surfaces. If this — second floor and above, then such actions already relate to high-altitude work that requires special training and special equipment or equipment (lifting equipment, climbing equipment, etc.)
These "tricks" don't end well.
Neglect of safety rules carries a mortal danger both for the masters themselves and for people who may be at the bottom. It is strictly forbidden to perform such work on your own!
So, everything stated below should be taken only as a review article on the method of installing a split system, for example, to control the work of the called team of craftsmen. As an instruction for self-fulfillment, the text is not considered!
Video: tool for work and typical installation errors
Prices for popular models of rotary hammers
Perforators
Installation work split air conditioner held in next sequence:
- The primary marking of the installation sites of the indoor and outdoor units is carried out. the main task- determine the specific places for their installation, so that they comply with the basic rules for their placement (see diagram):
- At the same time, it is necessary to take into account the length of the route being laid. So, "back to back" You can put blocks, but the length of the route, for technological reasons, should not be less than 1500 mm. It is optimal to calculate so that the pipelines to be laid still do not exceed 6 meters, otherwise additional recharging of the system with refrigerant may be required. You can immediately appreciate how to “decorate” the track indoors - put it in a strobe with subsequent embedding, or hide it with a decorative plastic box.
Marking the installation site and determining the length of the route will allow you to decide on the purchase the right amount materials - copper pipes, drainage corrugations, cable, insulating flex and adhesive tape.
- The marking of the place and the suspension of the indoor unit are carried out. It is installed on a special mounting plate, which is rigidly attached to the wall in advance.
When marking the holes for mounting the panel, it must be aligned horizontally using the building level. This is not a "tribute to beauty", but required condition for the unhindered flow of condensate into the drainage pipe, without it flowing outside the sump.
After the mounting panel is fixed, you can “practice” in attaching the block to it - this will be needed later, when finally mounting the blocks with already connected communications.
- Now, along the planned path of the future route, it is necessary to drill a hole in the outer wall of the house. This is not an easy task, especially if the knowledge is reinforced concrete, with thick walls. You don’t have to try to do this with a household puncher - you need a powerful professional tool and a drill with a diameter of at least 45 ÷ 50 mm. In order not to run into reinforcement in the thickness of the wall, it is recommended to first select the optimal place using a special metal detector.
When drilling the hole, make a slight inclination to the outside so that it contributes to the free outflow of condensate from the indoor unit.
If you plan to hide the route in the wall, you can immediately cut out in it from the hole to the installation site of the indoor unit the corresponding strobe up to 60 mm deep.
- It makes sense to move on to the most difficult part of the installation - installing the outdoor unit. To do this, in the intended place, special brackets are attached to the wall of the building (sometimes to the floor of a balcony or a flat roof surface) - they can come with an air conditioner, or they are made on their own from a metal corner.
- Then, in compliance with all possible security measures, an external unit is installed on the “platform” formed by the brackets and fastened to them with special bolts.
- And now - the most crucial stage: laying a freon route from block to block. It is carried out in parallel with the installation drainage pipe and pulling the patch cable.
- All hermetic connections on both blocks are carried out using nipple detachable connections with copper nuts and tubes flared in them. For installation, special tools are required - a pipe cutter,
and flaring, consisting of special vise for different diameters of copper tubes, and a cone with an eccentric head.
How to carry out flaring - it is more convenient not to describe this moment in words, but to present it on a video:
Video: flaring copper tubes
A common mistake of beginners is that they forget to put a flex insulating tube and a nut on the pipe before flaring.
When laying the route, its small margin is taken into account - about 500 mm, which will then be easy to cut off during final installation.
One of the options for fixing the indoor unit - after switching the cable and pipes
Depending on the relative position blocks, pipelines can be immediately connected to the indoor unit, and then carefully brought out into the street, or you can first lay the route, and then switch it on the blocks.
- One end of both pipelines is connected to the indoor unit of the split system (it is impossible to make a mistake there, since the two tubes and, accordingly, the fittings and nuts have a different diameter). The drainage corrugated hose and connecting cable are immediately mounted. All this, after joining, is packed in one package, tightly wrapped with metallized or durable vinyl tape.
- After switching, the indoor unit is hung out on a regular place - on a pre-mounted panel. Further work is carried out outside the premises.
- Outside, in compliance with all safety measures, flaring is carried out and both pipelines are connected to the corresponding fittings (pos. 1 and 2). A fitting with a spool (pos. 5) is used to fill the system with freon and to carry out its preliminary evacuation. Under the protective covers (pos. 3 and 4) there are valves that close the circuit of the outdoor unit for the time being.
- Flaring and connecting pipes are carried out in the same way as on the indoor unit. To avoid overtightening the connections, it is best to use a torque wrench.
- After connecting the pipelines, immediately switch the electrical part. The wires of the stretched cable are connected in accordance with the marking of the terminal connectors on the indoor and outdoor unit.
- The drain tube can be attached to the wall or laid aside to a position convenient for operation.
- Now - an important technological stage - evacuation of the system and its from residues into logs. It is carried out in two ways. The first is using a special vacuum pump, with pumping the system through the spool for 10 — 20 minutes. Then the valves on both fittings (pos. 3 and 4) open and the system is completely filled with freon - a small amount of gas may be etched. This method is considered the most reliable and professional.
Video: professional recommendations for installing an air conditioner
In practice, many craftsmen use the “bleeding” method - by opening the valve (pos. 4), they fill the system with freon for literally 1 second, and then by pressing the spool (pos. 5), the refrigerant is almost completely exhausted. This manipulation is repeated 2 - 3 times (with a track length of up to 6 meters), but you can not be too zealous, since then refueling with freon may be required.
After that, the valves open, the system is fully charged with refrigerant, and it is necessary to check the tightness of the connections. This can be done by lubricating the connecting nodes with dense soapy foam - the bubbles will immediately indicate the presence of a leak. This means that it will be necessary to tighten the connections so that the volatile refrigerant does not erode their systems.
- The places where the pipeline and cable are switched are closed with regular casings - and the installation can be considered completed (if you do not take into account the finishing measures inside the premises).
- Now you can connect the split system to the dedicated field line and carry out the first start-up of the air conditioner.
So, summary publications. Installing an air conditioner with your own hands is an extremely responsible and rather complicated undertaking. Even compliance with all the rules and increased accuracy do not guarantee success the first time - the lack of experience can be trite. Therefore, a sincere recommendation to all beginners is to spare no expense and still call a team of professional installers.
Video: a short installation course from the manufacturer of air conditioners
Installation work on installing an air conditioner is not particularly difficult, unlike installing a split system, but it requires care and adherence to the main steps. However, first of all, strict observance of specific conditions is necessary.
Conditions for installing an air conditioner
Tools and fixtures for mounting the air conditioner
After choosing a device of the required size, you should check the availability of materials, fasteners, and tools necessary for work:
- Perforator and replaceable cartridges for drills for various materials;
- Electric jigsaw;
- Building level;
- Glass cutting tool;
- Hacksaws for metal and wood;
- Angle grinder (Bulgarian);
- Flat and interior furniture corners;
- Silicone white or transparent sealant;
- Water-based paint;
- Hand brush for paint.
- Mounting assembly for window air conditioner (possibility of purchase in the construction market).
Air conditioner installations. Choosing the right place
When installing a room cooling unit, the choice of location is very important. Many factors influence the effective operation of this device:
- strength of window frames. Consider possible options installation of the device, select the necessary fasteners. Strengthen the bottom of the window opening metal corner if its dilapidation was discovered;
- Consider the possibility of draining waste condensate. When installing the device, it is necessary to tilt the rear wall of the air conditioner slightly down. A slope of 0.5-1.0 cm will provide moisture drainage. The sides of the device must be in a strictly horizontal position;
- Provide safe for environment outlet of hot exhaust air from the air conditioner;
- Ensure free air inlet and outlet for the installed device. Protect the side and top surfaces of the device from sunlight.
- Leave 10-15 cm of free space on top of the device and the same distance on the left or right side.
Port air conditioners can be placed on internal walls premises. As in the case of the window arrangement of the device, first of all, it is necessary to check the strength of the wall, the evenness of its surface. If necessary, work is carried out to strengthen and level it. Then, a cycle of preparing the floor for the installation of the air conditioner is carried out:
- On the surface of the wall, a line is drawn for attaching the device, and the contour of the device to be mounted is outlined. Drill holes for dowels are drilled in the wall. The bracket is fixed with dowels to the wall and the screws are tightened.
- With a downward slope, holes are added for the desired direction of drainage.
- Fastening the external structure of the device consists in strengthening its bracket, leveling the horizontal position with the help of a building level. Brackets of the outer case are mounted in series;
- The outdoor unit is bolted to the brackets.
Step by step installation of an air conditioner
The air conditioner is installed according to the scheme worked out by experienced craftsmen:
- Definition of the most convenient option air conditioner placement window opening or a window. In this case, preparation for installation is simplified. Craftsmen need to remove the glass, equip the jumper and cut the glass to the desired size;
- Fix the bracket and the body of the device;
- Sealant close the joints at the junction of the body with the window;
- Install the mechanism of the device in a reinforced case, having previously removed the safety pads used during transportation;
- Check for correct inclination rear wall device for ensuring the flow of condensate; for each model of the air conditioner, the slope is individual and is indicated in the instructions for the device.
- All flaws in the window frame made during installation are treated with sealant and painted.
- The air conditioner comes with a drain hose. This part is necessary for the removal of condensate formed as a result of cooling the air in the room. The drain hose is installed in drainer device. Correct connection drainage device is to ensure that the tube does not come into contact with the ground and the surface of the condensate in the tank.
Electrical connection
After laying the cable for connecting the room cooling unit, connecting it to automatic device, continue the installation of an electrical safe assembly - this is the next stage of installing a window air conditioner in an apartment.
All work in the electrical part of the installation must be carried out in accordance with the safety recommendations specified in the instructions for the air conditioner.
Grounding the air conditioner requires special attention to perform this operation. Errors in the work performed on the grounding of the device can lead to irreversible damage.
Installation and installation of the fore air conditioner is completed. After a thorough re-check of all connections made during the installation process, you can turn on the device and check its operation.
In case of problems found, it is better to seek help from a specialist.
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Plastic windows are gradually replacing their wooden relatives from the apartments. How to be the owners of beautiful and neat double-glazed windows if you want to install air conditioning?
Place for installation of window air conditioner
Window air conditioners can be called the oldest representatives of the species. They began to be produced almost 90 years ago in America. Until now, they confidently withstand competition with more modern and sophisticated models.
It is with this type of air conditioners that plastic windows at first glance do not fit well. But this is only at first glance. Owners, however, will have to bear some additional costs. The window sash, in which it is necessary to mount the climate equipment, will need to be replaced.
Cut in finished window air conditioner hole is unrealistic. The tightness of the structure will be broken and the window can be thrown away. Therefore, there is only one solution: instead of a continuous double-glazed window, insert a sandwich panel. Cutting the necessary opening in it is as easy as shelling pears. And in a few minutes the window for the air conditioner is ready.
The easiest way to worry in advance about the place of installation in plastic window air conditioner and order a sash with a sandwich insert. Then there will be no additional costs.
How to install an air conditioner in a plastic window?
This is not too difficult, however, some skill is required. A hole in the sandwich panel is made to size metal frame from the corner. It will have to be purchased separately. The frame is attached very securely, because it must withstand the weight of the equipment. A slight inclination towards the street must be maintained so that condensate flows freely from the device. Having thus prepared a plastic window for the air conditioner, the air conditioner can be inserted into the frame. Some manufacturers care about facilitating the installation of their offspring. Therefore, they are attached to them with removable covers. They are used instead of a metal frame.
The gaps between the air conditioner case, the window, the balcony and the frame are filled with mounting foam or other sealant.
Do not install the equipment where it will be exposed to intense rain, snow, direct sunlight. Blinds located on the side surfaces must be open.
Otherwise, air will not be able to enter the case and the equipment will be damaged.
So, in plastic windows, balconies, window-type air conditioners are built in quite simply. A little accuracy and diligence - and climate technology pleases the owners, creating comfort in a home or office.
