How to spray roses in spring. How to care for roses in spring after winter. How to recognize gray mold
As soon as the earth is freed from snow, part of the insulation is removed from the rose bushes wrapped up for the winter. Treat roses in the spring from pests and diseases, pruning, laying the correct formation of a bush, loosen the soil, remove weeds and feed the queen of the garden - this is how the season begins. And just like that, it ends in the fall.
Disease and pest control starts with right choice site, high-quality soil preparation, creating good drainage, allowable distance between bushes, compatibility with neighboring plants, varietal characteristics and care.
When choosing roses, attention should be paid to the disease resistance of the material selected for planting. You need to choose a variety inside garden group(class), and not just a group: park, hybrid tea, etc. Many gardeners believe that certain classes of roses are pest tolerant and disease resistant. However, there are many varieties that are prone to serious diseases and defenseless against insects.
An interesting fact: plants can have 2 types of resistance:
- 1 Phenotypic. The variety is resistant to the disease in certain regions of the country or only in one.
- 2 Genotypic. Due to the presence of genes that are not affected by climate, location or horticultural practices.
That is why, when the term "variety resistance" is used without the specifics of varietal characteristics and reference to the place of growth, its use may turn out to be incorrect if only the genotypic resistance of the variety is taken into account.
Diseases of rose bushes
The queen of the garden is susceptible to diseases, which, depending on the etiology, are divided into infectious, caused by fungi, bacteria, viruses, and non-infectious, arising under the influence of adverse atmospheric factors and growing errors.
One of the most dangerous is black spot. Its causative agent - a fungus - hibernates in fallen leaves. Infection begins after prolonged rains and manifests itself in black spots that appear in the lower part of the plant on the surface of the leaves and spread to the very top. The spots merge, the leaves turn yellow and fall off.
Black spot control measures include:
- pruning affected shoots;
- removal of affected leaves;
- planting roses in places with good air circulation;
- lack of wetting of leaves during watering;
- late autumn and early spring treatment of roses with a 0.6-0.8% solution of copper oxychloride;
- spraying at least 3 times during the growing season with 0.4% copper oxychloride, 1% Bordeaux mixture.
Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that appears as a white powdery coating on infected leaves. They dry up and fall off, roses slow down growth and may die. Humid air does not play a significant role in the spread of the fungus, since its mycelium is carried by the wind and develops on warm and dry days, followed by cool and humid nights. Protective measures upon detection of an incipient disease are as follows:
- top dressing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers;
- spraying 3-4 times during the growing season with an interval of 2 weeks with a soda-soap liquid (30-50 g of soda ash and 40-50 g of soap per 10 liters of water);
- treatment of fermented slurry;
- spraying with 1% colloidal sulfur.
With pronounced signs of the disease, rose bushes should be treated every 7-10 days until the infection is completely suppressed.
There are several types of fungi that cause various damage to the stems and leaves of the plant: infectious burn, bacterial spot, scab. They usually form ulcers or patches. Brown, rapidly blackening, but may appear as wrinkled, albeit green, sections of the stem. Starting on one side, the spore-forming structures quickly “ring” the stem, causing its death. One of the reasons for the damage by mushrooms, experts call the stress of roses caused by improper care. Therefore, treatment methods include not only chemicals, but also the cultivation culture:
- adequate shelter throughout the winter;
- mulching only after freezing of the soil;
- gradual removal of shelters until a period of complete cessation spring frosts and their complete elimination at positive temperature;
- pruning stems below damage, destruction (burning) of damaged shoots;
- moderate watering.
The treatment of roses for diseases of this etiology is similar to the methods of dealing with spotting. In many ways, the treatment of gray rot, caused by fungi of the genus Botrytis and affecting leaves, buds, stems, depends on the care of roses. Special place in the culture of growing a healthy plant, fertilizing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers and spraying with 0.4% copper oxychloride are occupied.
Bacterial cancer, root rot are more complex diseases of roses. Important here: strict selection of planting material, burning of infected plants, pruning of lateral roots and disinfection of the root system for 5 minutes in a 1% solution blue vitriol. Planting roses in heavy soils is undesirable.
insect damage
The most common herbivorous pests that feed on the juice of young shoots and freshly blossomed leaves are aphids. The plant weakens, the leaves turn yellow, curl and die. The most important thing in the fight against this green, red, yellow or black insect is to prevent its spread. The fight should begin with the appearance of the first individuals:
- spray with a decoction or infusion of insecticidal plants (garlic, tobacco, onion, hellebore) or soap, repeating the procedure every 2 weeks;
- wash off the pest with a strong jet cold water;
- remove aphids by hand, while there are few of them;
- grow umbrella plants in the garden that the ladybug loves.
The larvae of this natural enemy of aphids can now be ordered online. Wasps and earwigs can also help.
The Japanese beetle, or Japanese beetle, is gluttonous, preferring buds and flowers, but also attacks foliage. Usually, gardeners collect beetle larvae by hand when they crawl out in the spring from a depth of almost 2 meters. Helps to trim the area. Biologists have proven that the beetle larva does not tolerate nitrogen, so clover with tuber bacteria, which absorbs nitrogen from the air, is especially good for this purpose.
Attracting starlings, thrushes to the garden is an environmentally friendly way to deal with beetles. In the arsenal of funds there is a decoction onion peel. A bucket of husks is completely filled with water and infused for 5 days.
Traps with sticky liquid: grease, glue, illuminated from below by a lamp, also attract pests. Another simple one folk way: early in the morning, numb beetles are shaken from the bushes and fed to the birds.
Wasps do not cause serious damage to plants, do not infect them with diseases. Their harm is rather visual. Perfectly round notches appear on the glossy sheets of the rose. These pieces of leaves were used by wasps for their minks.
But the red spider, as well as the black or brown mite - a relative of spiders - pierces the reverse side of rose leaves and sucks the juice out of them. The leaf "turns gray" or becomes bronze. Ticks multiply quickly. There are a lot of them in dense gardens. A strong jet of water every 2-3 days will interrupt them life cycle. Of the chemicals, it is recommended to use acaricides.
Thrips - very small brown insects They live in the part of the plant they feed on. A broken, speckled bud or scratched flower petals are a sign of thrips. Their hard jaws cause these injuries. Thrips are especially attracted bright hues roses. Some improvement in the situation can be achieved by spraying with insecticides and infusions of insecticidal plants at intervals of 5-7 days.
The same means of struggle are used in the event of a defeat by a sawfly.
Spring plant protection
For most diseases of roses, there are no special preparations. Fungicides, for example, cannot cure infected plants, but they can stop the spread of fungal diseases.
Therefore, spring for a gardener is a hot time for preventive measures:
| Month | Care | Protection |
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Roses are susceptible to many diseases and harmful insects, but can survive without additional protection. Only they are unlikely to be as beautiful as healthy plants.
As you know, the disease is better to prevent than to cure.
Prevention of diseases of roses is proper care behind the plants. If it was still not possible to save plants from diseases, you will have to make a diagnosis and start treatment.
The most common rose diseases are powdery mildew, black spot, gray mold, downy mildew or downy mildew and rose rust.
We offer New roses spring 2018
Downy mildew, or peronosporosis, is caused by many species of oomycete pseudofungi from the Peronospora family.
Leaves, shoots, less often buds and flowers are affected. The leaves are covered with large shapeless brown-red spots without rims. The spots dry and reverse side the leaf forms a barely noticeable gray bloom. Affected leaves fall off.
remember, that the infection persists on fallen leaves and in the cracks of young branches affected by the disease. They must be removed.
The development of peronosporosis is facilitated by low night air temperature (below 10 ºС) at high daytime temperatures. Under favorable conditions for the pathogen, downy mildew can develop rapidly. In dry and hot weather, the course of the disease is sharply reduced or stops.
For the prevention of downy mildew, spraying is carried out with the following preparations:
- Iodine milk - 1 liter of skimmed milk (or skimmed milk) is mixed with 9 liters of water and 10-12 drops of iodine are added (preferably not to exceed the concentration).
- A mixture of drugs "Kemira Lux" and epin (1 tsp. Kemira, 5 drops of epin per 5 liters of water)
- Infusion of ash (1 cup of ash pour 2-3 liters of boiling water, let it brew for 2-4 hours, filter, add water to 10 liters). This infusion can be added to the tank mix when spraying with insecticides.
- Topsin-M (20 g of the drug per 10 liters of water), before flowering
- Phytosporin solution (paste).
When signs of disease appear, spray fungicides: Bravo, Previkur (spraying with 0.2% working solution), Revus, Strobi, Profit Gold, Hart.
You can distinguish between downy mildew and black spot according to the nature of the fall of the leaves : with false powdery mildew they begin to fall from the top of the shoot, and with black spotting - from the bottom.
The causative agent is a fungus of the genus Phragmidium (Phragmidium disciflorum, P. tuberculatum, P. rosae-pimpinellifoliae) Rust is usually introduced with new planting material, or from wild rose bushes growing nearby.
Most commonly affected by rust climbing roses, vintage and species.
Characteristic sign the onset of the disease - the appearance on the stems and leaves orange-red "pads" rounded. They contain spores of the fungus, which, after maturation, are transferred by air currents to other plants.
In the cells of an infected plant, the processes of photosynthesis and metabolism deteriorate, water balance, as a result of which the bark cracks, the affected stems bend and thicken, the leaves, turning yellow, fall off, flowering stops. If you do not take measures to eliminate the disease, individual branches or the entire plant may die.
Rose rust - dangerous disease, it spreads quite quickly among healthy plants. IN open field the most active disease progresses in early spring, with the opening of the first buds. In hot and dry weather, the development of the fungus stops.
Rust is easy to spot early stages because its symptoms are unlike any other disease.
To prevent rust of roses, you should regularly and carefully inspect the bushes for the presence of red spots - the first symptoms of the disease. All affected parts of the plant must be immediately removed and burned. The same goes for fallen leaves.
It is also important that the bushes are not planted too densely, and that there is sufficient air circulation between them, which helps to normalize the level of humidity. At high humidity air creates a favorable environment for the active development of fungal diseases.
First processing roses are carried out in the spring when foliage appears hom or oxychom preparations. The next one is in May drug Falcon. This systemic fungicide preventive, therapeutic action. Active ingredients: tebuconazole, triadimenol, spiroxamine. Thanks to the three components, it has a wide spectrum of action, and the risk of addiction to the drug is low..
The following treatments are carried out in late June and early August. And the last spraying for rust prevention is done in the fall, before covering the roses with a 3% solution. iron sulphate.
The development of the fungus in the spring most often begins with mycelium growth on infected plant debris, on which the mycelium of the fungus overwintered and at this time susceptible damaged parts of plants are infected.
The disease manifests itself on the petals with yellowish-brown spots. irregular shape And different size; browning can cover the entire bud, go to the pedicel.
If you do not take protective measures, weeping brown spots appear on the stem. Then the buds, pedicels and the affected parts of the stem are covered with a gray-brown fluffy coating of sporulation of the fungus. The tissues of the stem are destroyed, in the places of the lesion they can break. Affected buds break and dry out.
The most susceptible to gray rot are roses from the groups floribunda And hybrid tea .
The main control measure is compliance agrotechnical requirements aimed at creating favorable conditions for the growth and development of plants.
- Unthickened planting of roses.
- Timely removal of aging flowers.
- Thorough cleaning of plant residues with their subsequent burning.
- Protection against sucking pests.
- Increasing plant immunity.
- Proper use of phosphorus-potassium and microfertilizers.
- Planting roses away from raspberries and strawberries and not downwind of them.
The rose is called the queen of flowers for a reason. Legends were composed about it, the image of a flower is found in the symbolism of religions, esotericism, on coats of arms, etc. This is a flower of celebration, celebration, sacred rites. Rose oil, petals are used by women to preserve their beauty and youth. Boiled from rose petals delicious jam. Flower growers know what kind of careful care a rose requires, but all efforts are rewarded a hundredfold. Rose care begins in early spring. With the advent of March, it's time to ventilate shelters, prune, treat roses from diseases and pests. personal experience processing roses in the spring is shared by an amateur grower Lyudmila Melnikova from Belgorod:
My Shelter Experience
There are many types and varieties of roses. There are winter-hardy, there are very tender. For example, I always cover tea hybrids or floribunda for the winter, and park ones, for example, winter perfectly just under the snow, which I add to it in the process of cleaning the paths. Or rather, I read garden paths to sprinkle snow on roses. But sissies in late October and early November, when the daytime temperature confidently keeps from -1 degrees to -5 degrees for several days, I cover with five-liter plastic bottles from under the mineral water. When it snows, I just sprinkle it on the banks. Snow mounds are obtained, which keep the bushes until spring. As the long-term practice of such shelters has shown, even in winters with little snow, the bushes feel great. In the thaw, they do not warm up, mice do not gnaw them. In the spring, I take off the shelters when all the snow melts, and the daytime temperature stays at 5-7 degrees Celsius.
Preparations for the treatment of roses in the spring
With such a shelter, only the tops of the branches dry out. I cut these tips to healthy tissue on the branches, 0.5-0.7 mm above the living bud. I immediately spray the sections, like the whole bush, with Zircon. I spray abundantly, so that the drops flow down all the branches right to the root. Then I water the rose bushes under the root with the same Zircon solution (ampoule 1 ml per 2.3 l, I use plastic bottle from kvass or sweet water).
Warning! Apply any solution for irrigation under the root should only be on wet ground. If the ground is dry, first moisten the soil abundantly. When moisture is absorbed to a depth, then I already water with biostimulants or apply fertilizers.
Zircon is an anti-stress drug that strengthens the plant and stimulates its growth, helps plants successfully recover after winter. Therefore, having removed the shelter, I water the roses and spray them with Zircon about every 3-4 days a little, about ten days.
If some plants are still affected, I process Epin in the same way as with Zircon. Epin is an excellent resuscitator. One rose brought from Sochi was saved after a snowless winter with this particular preparation. She froze completely, even almost all of her root system. Epin revived a rose from several half-dead buds from the remaining half-dead root. She only poured as a resuscitator for almost three weeks every three days - poured directly into the root, kept the earth in a slightly damp state. Rose - came to life, has been successfully growing for seven years! And - since then, she has had enough treatment with Zircon in autumn and spring.
Three weeks after removing the shelter, I feed my beauties with potassium humate, sometimes with Agricola for flowers. Also, when I remove the greenhouse jars, I pour bentonite under the bushes (I take it from the filler for cat litter). It retains the moisture that the roots take from it, serves as a baking powder for the soil, nourishes the bushes.
Marigolds, calendula, lavender, lilies, clematis, fragrant and spices(for example, basilicas), daisies, colchicum, hazel grouse and other neighbors useful for bushes. Therefore, for many years, the beauties never had to be treated with anything else - there were no diseases or pests on them. So that roses are not amazed at anything, the main thing is to follow the rules of agricultural technology and take into account the neighborhood that is useful for them. Flower queens should have enough sun fresh air, space.
Unfortunately, for the last three years, buds and blooming flowers have been sprayed in May-June from the weevil. I spray with Spark - it copes well with this pest, which we have appeared relatively recently: either due to warming, or it was brought in with some kind of imported products. Previously, it was not in the Belgorod region.
Treatment of roses with copper sulphate
For prevention from pests and diseases, it is recommended to treat rose bushes in early spring (March-April), before bud break with a solution of copper sulfate (100 - 150 g per 10-liter bucket of not cold water). A before spraying vitriol it is recommended to spend the spring sanitary pruning. Then, with the onset of steady heat, the roses are well watered and fed.
Another printed source says that preventive spraying of roses and the soil around the bushes should be carried out after the complete removal of shelters and pruning - in the month of May, using copper-containing preparations, according to instructions. Can also be applied Bordeaux liquid at a concentration of 100 g per 10 liters of water.
If the stems are damaged by mold as a result of improper winter shelter (usually affected during winter thaws), treatment with potassium permanganate is useful (a dark pink, but not burgundy, solution of potassium permanganate is applied to the branches and trunk with a brush). It can be replaced with a solution of copper sulfate (a bucket of water + 100 g of sulfate).
Spring top dressing
In late March - early April, winter shelters begin to open, and you can feed the roses with urea or ammonium nitrate (20 g per 10 liters of water). Bushes spud at the base and cover from night frosts.
Another printed source says that it is better to start feeding roses in late April - early May, after pruning and with the beginning of bud swelling (25 g of ammonium nitrate and 3 kg of manure per 1 square meter are added). The second dressing - 2 weeks after the first, after the start of shoot growth. Mineral fertilizers are applied: 10 g of potassium salt, 10 g of ammonium nitrate and 25 g of superphosphate per 1 sq. meter. And organic: 3-5 liters of mullein infusion per 1 bush.
It is also advised to pour roses with ammonium nitrate to activate the growth of the root system (1 tablespoon of the drug in a bucket of warm water).
It happens that after an unsuccessful wintering, roses become covered with brown spots and a gray fluffy coating - these are manifestations of gray rot. The damaged parts of the plant are cut out and treated with fungicides: Fundazol, Maxim, Benlat, Teldor. Fungicides "Topaz" and "Ridomil Gold" are also used against diseases.
Also for prevention spray roses herbal infusions from:
- nettles;
- tops of tomatoes;
- wormwood;
- yarrow.
Any processing should be carried out in calm, calm weather, dry, when weather forecasters do not promise rain. Better evening.
It remains to be noted: flowers feel how they are treated. If they are loved, properly cared for, they respond with lush, long, fragrant flowering.
Excellent and luxurious. Queen of gardens and flowers. It is not only the main decoration of floral compositions, but also an indispensable basis in cosmetology. This bush plant has the peculiarity of blooming several times during the summer and delighting with its delicate buds throughout the warm season.
Unfortunately, diseases and pests of roses are no less common than others. garden flowers. Even a novice gardener can fight with them. Otherwise, the bushes will not bloom as often, and the leaves will become weak.
Rose diseases - description and treatment methods
Improper care, or lack of it at all, will lead to a weakening of the rose bush.The lack of light and moisture make the flower unstable to various diseases:
- black spot
- powdery mildew
- Chlorosis
- Rust
Powdery mildew, most often affects young shoots. It appears on the surface of the leaves in the form of a powdery coating, spreading completely over the bush leads to the death of the leaves and the death of young shoots. Council, in the fall, prune the bushes, collect and burn the leaves. Carry out digging of the earth with the turnover of the reservoir. This will reduce oxygen to a minimum in the fertile layers. The fungal pathogen dies.
With chlorosis, the leaves turn white or yellow, thicken and become brittle. Their edges are curled. Most often, young parts of rose bushes get sick, and the tops of the shoots die off. For treatment and prevention, it is necessary to establish the composition of the soil. After all, this disease occurs due to a lack of zinc, magnesium, manganese, boron, etc. in it.
Rust appears in the spring on the stems around new leaves in the form of a mass of rusty color. This disease is especially aggravated during a wet spring. IN rose bushes metabolism and photosynthesis are disturbed. The leaves dry, the stems are deformed, the buds are weak. Digging the soil helps a lot with rust. Pruning diseased elements, burning affected leaves and stems. Diseases of roses require timely treatment.
How to treat aphids on roses
The insect is located in large numbers on the back of the leaves. The larvae are so small that sometimes it is impossible to see them. They grow rapidly, turning into females without wings, which produce offspring up to 10 times a year. By the end summer season, individuals with wings also appear. Such aphids are already laying eggs that will overwinter and in a favorable period new hordes of pests will appear again.Bushes damaged by aphids do not grow well, ugly flowers bloom on them, leaves fall, shoots become crooked. How then to process the bushes?
Suitable funds for spring processing, before the kidneys swelled chemical agents: karbofos, metathion, rogor. You can also mix kerosene with water - 200 gr: 10 l.
Well proven and folk remedy:
- garlic or onion - 300 gr.
- tomato leaves - 400 gr
- water - 3 l
How to treat roses from spider mites
Spider mite - dangerous pest. If roses grow in greenhouses, it can multiply all year round. They damage the leaves from the underside. They suck out the juice, thereby depriving the plant of nutrients.You can treat roses from a tick by spraying. The easiest way daily processing cold water. Insecticides:
- Akreks - 0.08%
- Isophene - 0.05%
- Omite - 0.01%
Means for treating roses from pests: video
Remedies for pests of roses are selected depending on the season, the characteristics of the insects themselves and the soil. If the processing is carried out correctly, the shrub will gratefully delight more than one year with its flowers.
Every grower who has even a small rose garden in his household knows the main rule for growing roses. Beautiful flowering bush can only be obtained by crafting for roses comfortable conditions"accommodation". And, above all, you need to know how to properly care for roses in the spring after winter in order to help the bushes wake up and enter the phase of active growth.
Among spring work There are four main points to highlight in the rosary:
- removal of winter shelter;
- bush pruning;
- top dressing;
- mulching.
Removal from the bushes of winter shelter
Winter shelter is removed from the bushes after the night frosts are gone, and the daytime air temperature reaches stable values.
If the shelter is made of a waterproof material that does not transmit light, you should first slightly open the bush so that it is ventilated and the moisture accumulated under the shelter evaporates. Fully open after a few days when they acclimatize to outdoor temperature.
In the case of using a "breathable" material, the shelter can be removed immediately.
Spring pruning roses
Pruning of bushes in early spring is carried out for sanitary purposes, removing shoots frozen over the winter. In addition, it allows you to form a rose.
Depending on the type of roses grown, there are certain nuances when pruning bushes:
- Hybrid tea roses. After removing dry branches on adult bushes, no more than 8 shoots are left, shortening them after 6 buds. For young seedlings, it is enough to leave 3 short-cut branches (after 3 buds).
- Shrub roses. Varieties that bloom once are not pruned (only dry shoots are removed). Roses that bloom several times are pruned to one-third of their height.
- Standard roses. No more than 5 buds are left on the shoots, cutting them off at about the same height.
- Climbing roses. As well as shrub roses, young climbing bushes that bloom once are not pruned, otherwise flowering will not occur next season. It is enough just to thin them out by cutting out dry shoots. In varieties that bloom repeatedly, the side branches are shortened to 2-3 buds, leaving the main branches intact.
Spring dressing of roses
Young bushes planted in autumn do not yet need to be applied. mineral fertilizers. It is enough to pour them with a solution containing organic matter (bird droppings or mullein).
To prevent diseases after removing the shelter, roses are sprayed Bordeaux mixture(200 g of copper sulfate and quicklime per bucket of water).
Immediately after pruning old bushes, you should scatter ammonium nitrate under them and water them. At the end of April they do mineral supplements Kemira (1 tablespoon per bucket of water).
Mulching bushes
After the bushes are trimmed and fertilized, the soil around the trunk should be carefully dug up so as not to damage the roots. Lay a 5 cm thick layer of mulch on top of the ground, without covering the main shoot.
Sawdust, dry grass or compost are used as mulch.
When the mulch rots, it is mixed with the ground and a new layer is laid out. This will help retain moisture, protect the roots, and create a barrier to weed growth.
Rose care after winter - video
