When to Harvest Parsley Seeds. Parsley seeds - therapeutic effect and contraindications. Growing root parsley on a windowsill

To collect your own seeds of the varieties you have tested, you need to know some of the subtleties of their harvesting and the process of growing plants for seeds. Healthy and beautiful fruits will suit you. The soil under the plants left to seed should not be too thick, so that the growing season is not lengthened and the seeds have time to ripen. It is important to plant plants for seeds separately from other varieties of this crop.

legume seeds harvested from mature yellowed pods. To do this, carefully remove the largest from the pods, correct form kernels, dry them and store them in folded paper bags until spring in a cool, dry place.

radish seeds can be obtained in several ways.

I method: in a mature root crop, the leaves are cut to the level of the soil and only the upper growth part is left and the root is cut halfway, then the radish is transplanted to a new place.
Method II: leave the central leaf, the root is not cut off, and the radish itself is dirty before planting clay mash. They begin to collect only when the pods turn yellow and the seeds turn brown.

lettuce seeds. for seeds, they are sown in a greenhouse in mid-March, and at the end of May, the seedlings are transferred to open ground. When transplanting, sick plants and with an arrow are thrown out, and in varieties of head lettuce, without the formation of a head. Seed ripening is determined by When white bats appear in the inflorescence and the stem turns yellow, it's time to collect the seeds. After collection, the seeds are laid out on paper and dried for 2-3 days, then gently rubbed and selected.

Pumpkin and nightshade seeds easy to obtain from ripe and healthy, unblemished fruits. However, the seeds tomatoes and cucumbers they take it out of the fruit with pulp and, after allowing them to ferment for several days, wash and dry. seeds , zucchini, etc. fermentation is not required. After extraction from the ripe fruit, they are washed and dried immediately.

Often several varieties of such vegetables are planted on the site. Therefore, only artificial pollination will help to obtain seeds of the desired variety. To do this, in the evening, large, but not blossoming buds of a male and female flower are selected on the plant and tied with gauze. The next morning the gauze is untied, male flower tear off and touch it with the stamens of the pistil of the female flower. Then pollinated female flower again tied with gauze and removed only when the fetus begins to develop and grow under it.

onion seeds received in several stages. First, onion sets are grown from seeds in the summer. The following year, a turnip is obtained from the planted onion sets, which gives an arrow with real seeds. It is easier to release an arrow onion, frozen before planting or onion, which was placed in a warm and humid environment 2-3 weeks before planting. Seeds that are easily peeled out of the seed pods are considered mature. But in a cold and rainy summer, without waiting for the seeds to fully ripen, the arrows are cut and dried in a dry, ventilated room.

seedsgarlic, like onion seeds, they are obtained from the arrow of an adult plant. To do this, before winter, after the first frost, garlic bulbs are sown on the beds. Over the summer, single-toothed garlic grows from them, which are planted before winter, and next summer they get real adult garlic.

Seeds of carrots, beets, celery, root parsley, white cabbage, turnips and radishes obtained only from well-ripened root crops, i.e. next year after harvesting and winter storage. To get roots for seeds, seeds carrots planted in the soil in mid or late June. During the harvest, the most healthy, medium-sized root crops are selected, which, sprinkled with sand, are stored in cellars at temperatures from 0 to + 2 ° C. In the spring, 1.5 weeks before planting, the root crops are carefully sorted out and the rest put in a warm place. At the end of April, beginning of May, healthy root crops with slightly overgrown greens are planted in the beds. So that the flower stalks that appear on the carrots do not break, they are tied up, and since July, the umbrellas that are newly tied on the flower stalks are cut off. They collect carrot seeds selectively, knowing that the best ones are located on the edge of the umbrella in its southern half. To dry the seeds, choose a dry, well-ventilated place. After drying, the seeds are threshed, ground and winnowed.

seeds obtained in the same way as carrot seeds. But, since parsley can be root and leaf, they must be planted away from each other so that they do not pollinate. In root parsley, a strong, unbranched root crop with smooth leaves is left for seeds. And in leaf parsley, such root crops are chosen, the leaves of which are corrugated more than others.

white cabbage seeds obtained not from the root, but from the stalk. To do this, the heads of cabbage that have wintered in the basement are taken out at the end of March or the beginning of April and the stalk is cut out of them, trying not to damage the apical bud. If bud germination began in the basement, then such stalk is planted in open ground in a shady place, and grown until green. After that, the cabbage, together with a clod of earth, is transplanted to a permanent place. Summer care behind them is frequent loosening, hilling, watering and tying peduncles. When will it start right amount pods, pinch the rest. Clean up and side shoots so that only the main one remains. Harvest the pods when the seeds turn dark brown and the pods turn yellowish with a slight redness. After harvesting, the seeds are dried in a dark, cool place. Seeds that fall out of the pods on their own during harvesting are considered the best.

For beloved gardening readers.

Parsley is a biennial plant, without which not a single garden can do. Growing parsley often causes some difficulties for gardeners - the seeds do not germinate well or at all. Root and leaf varieties are grown in our gardens. Beneficial features parsley, pleasant aroma that improves the taste of any dish, made it essential attribute any garden. How to prepare parsley seeds for sowing, how to speed up or increase their germination? Parsley belongs to the umbrella family along with dill, cumin, angelica, lovage, cilantro, carrots, parsnips, celery, coriander. All of them have hollow stems, umbrella inflorescences. The botanical name is Petroselinum crispum.

It is difficult to say which parsley is more popular with gardeners. Leaf parsley is common, with smooth, shiny leaves or curly, with matte corrugated leaves. They differ from each other in the shape of the sheet. Common parsley usually has a stronger flavor than curly-leaf parsley. But curly parsley is very beautiful, elegant - it will decorate any dish.

  • Beneficial features
  • Growing parsley
  • parsley storage
  • parsley varieties

Beneficial features

Parsley is used in soups, sauces, salads, its use reduces the need for salt. This is food from low content saturated fat, very low cholesterol. it's the same good source protein, vitamin E (alpha tocopherol), thiamine, riboflavin, niacin, vitamin B6, pantothenic acid, and a very good source of dietary fiber. Parsley contains a considerable amount of vitamin C. It is also rich in vitamin A - its effect on vision, reducing the risk of atherosclerosis and diabetes is well known. Carotene, calcium, mineral salts of iron, phosphorus, minerals - this is just the main list of useful components of this fragrant plant. And the presence of aroma, its strength and pleasant taste depends on percentage essential oils. Root vegetables, parsley leaves are used for food.

Preparation of parsley seeds for sowing, increasing and accelerating their germination

Parsley seeds germinate for a long time - 15-20 days. This is due to the fact that the seeds are covered with essential oils that prevent germination, as if they do not allow the seed coat to get wet, do not allow moisture inside. This feature must be taken into account when preparing parsley seeds for sowing. Many gardeners cover the beds with foil or spunbond after sowing to keep the soil moist. Do not remove the shelter until the sprouts appear from the ground. If you are sure that all these 15-20 days required for germination, you will be able to keep the beds moist, then soaking the parsley seeds before sowing is not necessary.

But there are ways to germinate seeds that increase parsley germination, accelerating the emergence of seedlings.

You can accelerate germination by soaking seeds in water overnight before planting. Water, by the way, practically does not dissolve the oil on the surface of the seeds. Therefore, parsley seeds should be poured over before soaking. hot water(not boiling water) to wash essential oils off their surface.

One more way. Very simple. Need to soak the seeds in water, since essential oils dissolve in alcohol-containing solutions. At the bottom of the saucer I pour a little 40-degree. Then I pour the seeds on a small piece of a wide gauze bandage. I dip parsley seeds on gauze into vodka, leave for 15-20 minutes. No longer - you can burn the seeds. Then I lift the bandage with seeds, I wash under running water. It is a must to rinse. Then I dry the seeds. Everything - parsley seeds are ready for sowing. This method of seed treatment allows them to germinate twice as fast. Shoots are friendly, strong.

There is another way fast germination. Many of us grow greens for the table on the window or balcony. It is very comfortable. Parsley seeds germinate very slowly, but there is one way to "make" them germinate very quickly. Prepare a container with earth, moisten it, sprinkle the earth quicklime three times every 10-15 minutes. Sow parsley seeds pre-soaked in milk. The seeds will sprout in three hours. The room should be warm, not lower than 20°C.

Growing parsley

Before sowing parsley seeds, you should dig or loosen the ground well. It will not be superfluous to fill it with organic fertilizers before cultivating the soil.

Sowing dates depend on the condition of the soil. You don't have to wait for warm weather. As soon as the snow has melted, you can sow the seeds. Optimum temperature for seed germination - +1 - +5C. In the Kuban, you can sow in the "February windows". IN middle lane Russia - in April, after the snow has melted. That is, parsley is a cold-resistant plant. Seedlings easily tolerate light frosts, winter well under a good layer of snow. Spring is a great time to sow parsley seeds, but you can sow parsley any time of the year—spring, summer, and fall. The most important thing is to keep the soil moist until germination. Seeds can be sown in late autumn, before winter. At the same time, the sowing dates must be chosen so that the seeds do not have time to germinate before the onset of frost - young shoots will not tolerate the cold, they will die.

The best precursors to parsley are onions, cucumbers, and tomatoes. The seeds are sown finely, to a depth of no more than 1-1.5 cm. It is better to sprinkle the seeds with humus on top. For the entire period of growth, at least 3-4 times it is necessary to loosen the soil, feed 1-2 times. If the seedlings are too thick, thin out the crops. There should be at least 3-5 cm between plants. Top dressing should be started only after the appearance of 2-3 true leaves. Feed with a complete mineral fertilizer with a predominance of nitrogen. The soil should not be allowed to dry out. Parsley does not like weeds, they greatly inhibit its growth.

For the whole season, 3-4 loosening, 1-2 top dressing and watering are carried out. With dense seedlings, the plants are thinned out, leaving 3-5 cm between them. Top dressing begins when 2-3 true leaves appear in the plants, and then they are fed after cutting the leaves. To obtain a large crop of green mass, parsley is fed with a complete mineral fertilizer with a predominance of nitrogen.

Leaves are cut as low as possible. Do not cut too many leaves from one plant at a time - no more than a third, otherwise the bush will not be able to recover quickly or even die. It is worth periodically removing the stem on which the inflorescence develops (unless you want to collect the seeds), because new leaves will not grow on the old stem. New leaves usually grow from the outside of the rosette. By the way, at curly varieties, new leaves grow from the center of the rosette.

Tomatoes and asparagus in your area will grow better if parsley grows nearby. Plant it near roses - their aroma will intensify.

parsley storage

The best storage method is freezing. It retains its taste and color well when frozen. If you have to collect it for storage after rain, then you should rinse the branches well, dry them by wrapping them kitchen towel. Separate the leaves from the stems. Don't throw away the stems, you can freeze them too. They are great for improving the taste of soups. Dip the parsley stalks into the soup shortly before the end of cooking, tied in bunches. Then, after 5-7 minutes, they can be removed from the soup.

Parsley - wonderful greens, biennial spicy herb which can be served with almost any dish. Sowing parsley in the summer, you can try this greenery not only in the year of planting, but also for the next season. In addition, parsley unpretentious plant and there are no complicated rules on how to sow it and how to care for it.

Parsley has one feature - its seeds germinate for a long time.

On the Internet, I even found a post that says: “How to grow parsley in 3 hours” - for this you need to soak it in milk, and sprinkle the ground with dolomite three times every 10-15 minutes before planting. In my opinion - complete nonsense! Moreover, I did not see a single confirming photograph of this experiment.

10 Parsley Growing Tips You Should Really Use.

  1. Parsley can be sown from early spring to early August. Seeds germinate at 3-4°C. Parsley grows best in well-lit places and loose fertile soils with an acidity of pH 5.5 - 6.7, and ash or any potash fertilizers are very effective for top dressing.
  2. When sowing in spring and summer, it is better to pre-soak parsley seeds for 2-3 hours in Zircon. When soaking, it is convenient to use cotton pads to remove makeup. In October-November, winter sowing can be done - with dry seeds.
  3. The soil when planting should not be dry, but also too wet.
  4. Plant the seeds into the soil shallowly, about 1 cm. You can cover the landings for the first time with lutrasil. If you want seedlings to appear even faster, cover the crops with film or glass, and when greenery appears, with lutrasil.
  5. It is better to sow parsley in rows on a separate bed. There is no need to maintain a certain distance: as soon as the parsley grows, thin out the plantings, cutting greens into a salad.
  6. For parsley, you do not need to prepare a separate bed: plant it in the aisle of any vegetable plants. An exception is carrots, parsley is “not friendly” with it. You can even plant parsley along the edges of the potato furrows, of course, after the potatoes have been planted for the second and last time.
  7. Parsley, planted in the form of a border, edging to others, looks very impressive and beautiful. annual plants and flowers. In container gardening, parsley is one of the commonly used herbs: plant parsley in different containers and flowerpots with other aromatic herbs and you will get " kitchen garden”, which will give you various greens to the table all season.
  8. Parsley is “not friendly” with crops such as dill, carrots, parsnips, celery, cumin, cilantro, carrots, so you can’t plant it in the beds where these crops used to grow.
  9. Parsley can have two main pests - the whitefly butterfly and the "swallowtail caterpillar" caterpillar. Check the crops and find the caterpillars, collect them manually and destroy them. And from the whitefly, apply dusting with ash and tobacco dust in accordance with 1: 1 or spraying with tar or laundry soap.
  10. The grown parsley is cut with scissors, starting from the outer leaves. Parsley is consumed not only fresh, it retains its qualities both dried and frozen.

Little tips.

  • Parsley planted around the perimeter of the beds will help against the invasion of slugs.
  • Due to the decorative nature of the leaves, parsley can be sown in balcony boxes or garden vases along with various flowers.
  • To keep parsley leaves fresh longer and not wilted, put them in a vinegar solution for half an hour. half diluted with water.
  • Parsley is not moisture-loving plant, but in too dry weather, the growth of its leaves slows down, they coarsen. In this case, the leaves become more fragrant, as they grow stocks of essential oils.
  • ending holiday season, you can dig a couple of parsley bushes and, transplanting them into pots, take them with you to your apartment: then you can enjoy parsley in winter.
  • Parsley is an assistant to your health. Helps…
    • at viral diseases and flu;
    • hypertension;
    • nephritis - kidney disease (parsley root boiled in milk);
    • obesity
    • edema;
    • cystitis.

Good luck with your planting, harvest and ideas!

Parsley is the herb that we always grow in our gardens and orchards. There are no special secrets on how to plant parsley, planting parsley and dill is easy. It grows on almost any soil, parsley can grow both in the sun and in partial shade. Parsley grows best in light, fertile soil in a sunny location.

Parsley is a two-year-old spicy herb, so in May you can eat shoots of last year's parsley, and wait for new shoots by June. The advantage of parsley is that it has a long period when to plant parsley - it can be planted throughout the summer and even before winter, but do not get carried away too much, it can overwinter badly. Leaf parsley can be sown throughout the summer.

Where to sow parsley in spring

Parsley grows well on fertilized and loose soils, if you grow root parsley, then loamy or sandy soil is suitable for it. This plant is photophilous and loves a long daylight hours, so choose a sunny planting site. Suitable for growing parsley in the garden:

  • direct sunlight,
  • penumbra,
  • scattered sun rays

The plant is moisture-loving, but it is not worth over-wetting the plantings, it does not tolerate this. Can be damaged by powdery mildew, rust, black dry rot. It must be protected from slugs and aphids.

When to plant parsley.

  • Parsley for seedlings and for growing at home on windowsills can be planted from January on the days of the growing moon to December.
  • When can dill and parsley be planted outdoors? In open ground, in the garden, the time to plant parsley comes in the second half of April. But, if it does not sprout (it happens that you sow-sow, but it does not sprout), then you can sow several times per season. Parsley is a cold-resistant plant and the planting temperature of parsley is +1 ... +5 degrees. It easily withstands frost.

Days of the growing moon for planting parsley in 2015:

  • when you can plant parsley in March - from March 22 to March 31,
  • parsley is planted in April - April 1-3 and April 19-30,
  • V planting days for parsley in May - 1 - 3 and 19 - 31 May.

A significant disadvantage of parsley is that it takes a long time to sprout, so if you plant parsley on greens in April, it will be edible in June. Parsley seeds germinate more slowly, so the seeds can be soaked before planting.

To speed up the cultivation of parsley in the open field, cover the crops with a covering material. You can even do this. I downloaded to cover with polyethylene, and then, after the appearance of the first green sprouts, with lutrasil or other woven material. Under polyethylene, parsley will sprout quickly, and then changing the polyethylene to a woven material, you will not need to worry about the shoots burning.

How to plant parsley seedlings.

For growing parsley through seedlings, mini-greenhouses in the form of a container with drawers and a lid are well suited.

  • fill each glass soil mixture,
  • water warm water,
  • lay 5 - 6 parsley seeds,
  • sprinkle with earth for seedlings, 0.5 cm thick,
  • cover the greenhouse plastic lid or polyethylene film
  • put in a bright place with a constant temperature, you can even on a glazed balcony.

Parsley seedlings sprout for a long time, about two weeks.

How to speed up the germination of parsley seeds (how to soak parsley seeds if they germinate poorly):

  • pour dry seeds into a glass hot water from the tap,
  • cool down
  • when the water has cooled - drain,
  • do this procedure several times during the day,
  • wrap in a damp cloth
  • as the seeds hatched - planted in the ground.

How to plant parsley seeds in a garden bed in open ground.

It is best and most familiar to plant parsley in rows. You can even not make a separate bed, but plant it between other vegetables that ripen slowly. It is preferable to grow parsley in beds with a row spacing of 20–25 cm.

There is parsley: root and leaf.

How to plant root parsley.

Growing parsley root has its own subtleties, because root system forms a root crop in the form of a cone, then it must be sown immediately to a permanent place, in early spring(in the middle of April). Shoots appear for a long time, so be sure to soak the seeds. For good growth she needs potassium, so before planting, add ash to the soil at the rate of 1 glass of ash per 1 meter of planting. In dry weather, water the prepared breast thoroughly before adding the ashes. In wet weather, ash can simply be scattered between rows on moist soil.

Leaf parsley has beautiful leaves, which can be used for decorating flower beds and design garden plot. The leaves are smooth curly, corrugated. The root of leafy parsley is thin and highly branched.

Parsley is an unpretentious spicy herb, but still grows better:

  • in a well-lit garden,
  • with fertilized, loose soil,
  • for the root - with a deep arable layer,
  • do not plant this plant in places where other umbrella crops such as celery, carrots, dill, cilantro, cumin used to grow. Only after 4 years it will be possible to plant parsley, after these predecessors, so we make a bed for parsley, taking into account these recommendations.

How beautiful to plant parsley.

Thanks to its beautiful curly leaves and long, until the very frost, preservation of a bright green color, parsley can be used as ornamental plant. It can be used to decorate flower beds or planted from the edge in raised beds. Also, green parsley leaves look beautiful in garden flowerpots. In addition, parsley can be cut off and then it will grow back and you can have several crops of herbs.

Parsley is the most delicious and useful herb, which is so widely used as a seasoning for cooking various dishes. It is also very well used in medicine, serves as the best healer in traditional medicine and not only. Not only leaves are used, but also parsley root. It is grown by almost every gardener on his site. You can choose seeds in a gardening store, where you can choose the variety that you like best among large selection. Each package with reverse side it is written when it will rise and what its taste characteristics are.

Planting and growing parsley

This cultivated plant can be sown as at the end of summer, so that next year it gives a good harvest of root crops and also greenery or in spring to eat this useful greens. It can be planted as soon as the frosts end and the earth warms up enough. Before sowing parsley seeds, you need to prepare small plot land on which you want to plant it. Make grooves with a small distance between them. Plant the seeds as close to each other as possible, this is done so that the parsley sprouts very often and densely, and cover it with the same soil, so that the seeds are not very deep in the ground. After you have planted the seeds, be sure to water them with a small amount of water.
It is best to cover with polyethylene before germination so that the seeds sprout as quickly as possible. After the first sprouts sprout, the polyethylene must be removed. Then watering is not very often, but it is also not worth overdrying the soil, as it will then be bitter, and the taste will not be on highest level. Be sure to loosen between the grooves and weed so that it is not overgrown with weeds. As soon as the parsley grows at least 10-12 cm, it can already be eaten and cooked in a variety of dishes. This will happen around the middle of June, as parsley grows very quickly.

Harvesting and storage

Since parsley is a biennial plant, in the first year only the leaves should be removed, cutting them off with scissors, and in the second year, the roots must also be removed. should be harvested long before the onset of the first frost, it is best to do this at the end of August. Since parsley is very afraid of frost, at the same time it loses most of its beneficial vitamins and trade dress. The cut leaves are tied into bunches and dried, and then finely ground or ground, for later addition to food as spices. Some cut the leaves finely, add salt and put them tightly in jars and store in the refrigerator, but in this form it is not stored for very long, up to 150 days.

Garden parsley belongs to perennials and popular with gardeners. The value of parsley is determined by its vitamin composition, and unpretentiousness in care. The height of the plant reaches about half a meter. Leaf parsley contains a high percentage useful substances, it is used as a flavoring additive to dishes, consumed raw, used in the cosmetic industry.

Varieties of leaf parsley

There are many varieties of leaf parsley, “proven” varieties can be called: Sandwich, Gloria, Astra, Classic leaf, Triplex, Sorceress, Titan, Bogatyr, Breeze.

Classic leaf parsley

The variety is a fragrant lush bushy green with a high yield. Ripening dates come one and a half months after sowing or planting. Greens are ideal for salads, marinades and canning.

curly parsley variety

Due to its appearance, ideal for decoration holiday table. Possesses excellent taste, aroma and gentle greenery. Yields throughout growing season, at correct pruning. Good keeping quality and pleasant taste of curly greens make it indispensable on the kitchen table.

Esmeralda

Parsley is mid-season, one of the varieties of curly. Unpretentious in care, gives a lot of greenery. It can be stored in the refrigerator for more than two weeks without losing its taste.

Sandwich leaf parsley

Resistant to low temperatures, belongs to varieties of medium ripeness, has a bushy thick cap and large sheet. The variety has a bright aroma and an abundance of vitamins. Ideal for preparing complex sandwiches and pickles.

An early variety of parsley, with curly greens. Gives high yield. Quickly gives new branches of greenery after cutting.

Variety Breeze

Tender greens, mid-season variety, does not lose its qualities during storage for a long period. After pruning, the greens grow back quickly and are stored for a long time.

How to plant? Growing leafy parsley

Pre-sowing preparation of the site begins in the fall. The site is dug up, fertilizers, ash are applied, and preserved with a film. In the spring, when the soil begins to warm up, the film is removed, the site is dug up again, potassium, phosphorus and humus are added. They form beds and apply nitrogen, which is an ideal assistant in growing dense greenery.

Pre-pickled parsley seeds are sown in prepared furrows about a centimeter deep. They dig in and water the entire garden. For friendly shoots, with early sowing, the area is again covered with a transparent plastic wrap.

Leaf parsley can be sown several times a year to obtain young tender greens. Top dressing is carried out after sowing with superphosphate and potassium sulfate, about 30 grams per square meter.

Parsley can also be grown with the help of roots, they are germinated in advance, then planted in open ground. Root crops should be planted to a depth of at least 15 cm;

Almost any soil is suitable for both sowing and planting leaf parsley, except for clay, sod-podzolic soil is considered the best.

In the first year of growth, parsley does not produce seeds. If you decide to collect seeds at the end of the growing season, you need to choose a strong healthy plant. Seeds from it will be large and of high quality.

It is better to collect seeds when they become dark in color, with early collection, the seeds will be less likely to sprout together. Sort the seeds, giving preference to larger ones.

In order not to damage the seed capsule, do not collect with your hands, but with a cut of the seed caps. After shaking the seed caps into a bag.

To ripen the seeds, place them in the sun for two days. Spread out on the windowsill in a thin layer, and keep in a cloth or paper bag until sowing.

Parsley root, application

Growing parsley root is practically no different from the sowing method of plant propagation. The roots are also planted in the ground and fertilized according to the schedule.

Parsley root is in many ways similar to parsnips, with a slight nutty aftertaste. The use of parsley root in the form of juice heals the body, increases immunity, protects cells from premature aging.

Parsley root has a high antioxidant effect, the decoction helps to cope with skin problems and stress.

Parsley root juice is diluted before consumption due to the high concentration of vitamins in order to avoid allergies.

A drink made from parsley juice, carrots and honey is considered highly valuable.

Parsley root tincture helps in the fight against fungal infections.

Parsley root for storage is not dug up until frost, after which root crops are dug up and stored in boxes with sand, in a cool place.

Common leaf parsley, curly, sandwich, universal: care, top dressing

Parsley is a plant that can be grown all year round. The main condition for stable growth and obtaining a crop of leaf parsley is the timely care and feeding of greens.

For planting varieties of curly and sandwich, choose a place that is quiet, calm, open to sunlight during the first half of the day and shaded in the afternoon. The greens of these varieties are tender and will simply burn out in the scorching sun.

Do not despair if you do not find such a place, you can beat the situation by planting a universal variety of parsley in the aisles of any other crops that do not need to be sprayed with pesticides.

Watering green spaces, better in evening time, warm water settled in a barrel. Abundant watering of common parsley is required three times a week, on other days, small doses of moisture can be dispensed with.

Like all plants, leaf parsley loves good air exchange in the soil and nitrogen fertilizers. Do not forget to loosen the row spacing, avoiding the formation of cracks in the soil.

Weed according to your personal schedule and according to the intensity of weed growth.

In order for parsley to be bushy and lush, it needs to be thinned out. Do not forget to cut off the flower stalks if you do not plan to collect seeds, as the inflorescences take up to 50% of the nutrients from the root, robbing the green foliage. During the flowering period, parsley leaves become stiff and acquire a bitter taste.

Parsley does not like carrots, so it is better to exclude their neighborhood in advance, at the stage of sowing two crops.

Nitrogenous fertilizers, superphosphate are applied once or twice a month, do not forget about potash supplements, any greenery with them grows by leaps and bounds. It is also possible to use organic fertilizers, but at a small distance from the bush, so as not to burn the greens and the root of the plant.

If you want to get quick shoots of a sandwich and curly parsley, the crops should be covered with a plastic transparent film for a week, and after the appearance of the first bushes, remove the film, thin out the thick seedlings and apply mineral fertilizers. And in two weeks, fragrant greens of leaf parsley will appear on your table.

Leaf parsley diseases

An experienced gardener knows that checking plants for disease important step, for the crop of the plot as a whole. Often diseases affecting parsley pass to other garden crops. And parsley has enough diseases, consider the most common ones.

Fungal disease - white rot. Appears with a decrease in temperature and abundant watering. It looks like a white coating on the neck of the plant, it affects the root. Tip: do not flood the plants, the water should not stand in the garden after watering. The fight against the disease consists in the treatment of plants with fungicides and the adjustment of soil air exchange.

Rust - often affects only the leaves in the form of a rusty coating, spoils appearance and causes the plant to dry out. It is treated with fungicides, as it is a fungus.

Penosporosis or false powdery mildew- affects leaves, pale yellow spots and leads to the death of the plant. To avoid damage to plantings, pollinate the beds with sulfur powder. Spray Bordeaux liquid.

White spotting - spreads in brown spots, merging into large areas of green leaf damage. Spraying Bordeaux liquid and removing infected parts of the plant will help in the fight against the disease.

Leaf cercosporosis - stands out with dirty brown spots. Treatment: pruning of the affected parts of the plant, treatment with fungicides, compliance sanitary norms pre-sowing preparation.

Stem nemotad, carrot psyllid and melon aphid, also not averse to eating leafy parsley. Act as a united front against insect pests biological agents protection. Read about this in the article: chemical and biological plant protection products.

How to grow leaf parsley in an apartment?

Very simple. To begin with, choose a suitable place, for example, an insulated balcony or window sill. Sunlight plants should be enough throughout the daylight hours. Then decide on the parsley variety.

Take plastic containers or any other container suitable for your needs, fill it with soil (chernozem, humus, potassium), make small indentations in the soil and boldly sow the seeds. After watering, only carefully, avoiding erosion of the soil with seeds.

You can also plant root parsley, just stick the parsley root into the already prepared soil and water it. Fertilize once a month with ammonium nitrate and superphosphate.

Collection and storage of leaf parsley

Even a child can cope with the cultivation of leaf parsley. But there are certain rules, subject to which you will get a good harvest. If you need to make preparations for the winter, parsley of the second year of vegetation is better. Since the leaves of a more mature plant are larger, denser and tougher. They are ideal for freezing, and when defrosted, they will slightly lose their shape.

Most varieties of leaf parsley are suitable for harvesting two to three months after the first shoots appear. Starting to collect greenery, cut it at the very base, under the root.

If we are not talking about completely cutting off a bush of greenery, start cutting from the outer branches, not the middle ones. This will stimulate the plant, give more lush greenery to the next collection.

Parsley is one of the few plants that constantly needs to be pruned to keep the foliage tender. Therefore, collect greens at least twice a week.

At the end summer season, you can start harvesting the entire crop of parsley. Do not leave parsley unharvested, otherwise it will be less lush next year and may even get sick.

Each hostess stores parsley in her own way. Someone prefers to chop and freeze the greens for the winter, others preserve it along with sorrel, using it later to season soups, some chop the greens and dry it.

Parsley retains its aroma and color for a long time proper storage in a refrigerator. To do this, wrap the greens cling film, after sprinkling with water, and put in the refrigerator. So the greens will remain "fresh" for a week.

Similarly, you can store parsley without plastic wrap, just put the collected greens in a vegetable basket, and wrap the stems with a damp paper towel.

An interesting way to store parsley is to freeze it in molds. Arrange the leaves of greens in forms, fill with water and freeze, and use if necessary.

For storage, you can dry the parsley without chopping it, simply by tying the sprigs of greenery together and hanging them in a place well lit by the sun. Then collect in a cloth bag. Such parsley will be less fragrant, but will be stored for years.

Parsley is amazing useful plant, which does not need the constant presence of a gardener on the site. You can easily grow and harvest your own leafy parsley with the right approach.

1. Parsley seeds germinate very slowly, so to speed up the process, they need to be washed with clean warm water, then soaked in water for 1 - 2 days. Water is changed 3-4 times.

2. To speed up germination, seeds should be soaked in a double layer of gauze and germinated at room temperature. On the sixth day, when 5 - 6% of the seeds have a sprout, they are placed in a refrigerator (to +1 ... + 20 C) for 10 - 12 days. With this preparation of seeds, seedlings appear on the 5th - 7th day.

When and how to sow

Parsley is sown before winter or early spring. Winter sowing is carried out in October so that the seeds sprout in early spring. Sowing is carried out on the leveled surface of the ridges, in rows at a distance of 15 cm between them. Seeds are distributed evenly in rows.

As you know, parsley seedlings have a weak penetration ability, and they are very tender, so they are sown no deeper than 2 - 2.5 cm. After sowing, the soil is slightly rolled.

O. A. Ganichkina advises not to water the bed after sowing, so as not to compact the earth, but when spring sowing close the bed with a film with a distance from the surface of the bed of 10 - 12 cm. cold water, the water temperature should be +17 ... + 18o C.

What care is required for parsley

With the introduction of humus, many weed seeds often enter the soil. Therefore, before parsley sprouts, the site is overgrown with weeds, and they must be destroyed, as weeds are used for their development. nutrients and thereby reduce the effect of fertilization. In addition, weeds inhibit the development of parsley, which already grows slowly after emergence.

Leaf parsley is not thinned. Thin out the root parsley, if necessary, after forming a rosette of 3 - 4 leaves, leaving a distance of 5 - 8 cm between plants.

Parsley must be fed with ammonium nitrate at the rate of 1 - 1.5 kg per hundred square meters. This makes it possible to obtain a larger leaf "mass. Top dressing is usually carried out after cutting the greens. After top dressing, parsley is watered abundantly. Thus, fertilizers penetrate into the root-uninhabited soil layer.

How to get your seeds

In the first year, parsley forms a rosette of leaves and a root crop (mother liquor), in the second year it forms a branched flower stalk and seeds.

Parsley is a cold hardy plant. Seeds begin to germinate at a temperature of 3 - 4 ° C. Seedlings tolerate light frosts. In the south, root crops can overwinter in the soil.

Plants of the second year of life are more sensitive to heat. Therefore, good crops of parsley seeds are obtained in the southern regions.

Cultivation and storage of uterine root crops. Parsley is selected for growing mother liquors fertile soils with a loose and deep arable layer, well seasoned with organic fertilizers. Manure is applied under the previous crop. If the soil for the previous crop was not fertilized, then in autumn or spring humus or compost is applied at the rate of 3-4 kg per 1 m2 and complete mineral fertilizer- 15 - 20 g of ammonium nitrate, superphosphate and potassium chloride. At the same time, it is necessary to ensure that the soil does not contain an excess of nitrogen, which contributes to the formation of loose root crops, characterized by reduced keeping quality.

Seedlings of parsley appear slowly, usually 15-20 days after sowing. To accelerate the emergence of seedlings, the seeds are soaked in water 4-5 days before sowing. warm water which is changed daily. The swollen seeds are washed clean water and sprinkled on burlap for germination. They are kept moist at room temperature until the first sprouts appear, after which they are dried and sown. Sowing with germinated seeds accelerates the emergence of mass seedlings by 10-12 days compared to sowing with dry seeds. In the Non-Chernozem zone, it is sown in late April - early May.

In individual gardens, about 1 g of seeds are sown per 1 m2 at a depth of 1-1.5 cm. The distance between rows is 45 cm. On heavy soils, seeds are sown on ridges in three lines.

During the growing season, three or four loosening of row spacings is carried out on the site: the first - to a depth of 4 - 6 cm, the second and the rest - by 10 - 15. In dry weather, the plants are watered. After the plants form two or three true leaves, they are fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. For liquid top dressing, 10-20 g of ammonium nitrate and 20-30 g of superphosphate and potassium chloride are dissolved in 10 liters of water. With thickened sowing, the plants are thinned out, leaving a distance of 3–5 cm between them. The formation of root crops ends 120–150 days after germination.

Parsley mother liquors are dug up before the onset of frost. During harvesting, only well-formed healthy root crops that do not have mechanical damage. The leaves are cut, leaving petioles 1 - 1.5 cm long. Root crops are placed for temporary storage in a small pile, covering the top with a layer of soil 10 - 15 cm. With a sharp decrease in air temperature, additional shelter is carried out.

With the onset of stable cool weather (4 - 5 ° C), the mother liquors are transferred to the basement or stored throughout the winter in a trench. In the basement, the queen cells are stored in a stack or in boxes. Each row of root crops is covered with sand. During storage, the air temperature in the cellar is 0 - 2°C, relative humidity 85 - 90%.

Growing seeds. The seed plot is best placed on fertile structural non-acidic soils.

Before planting, mother cells are carefully examined and only healthy root crops are selected. In the Non-Chernozem zone, it is recommended to grow parsley mother liquors to accelerate the development of plants. 3 weeks before planting in the ground, root crops are added dropwise on insulated ridges, in semi-warm greenhouses, or grown in a stack in a place protected from the wind with a layer of humus or compost. Queen cells usually do not need shelter, except on nights when frost is expected.

When growing on root crops, a dense network of roots is formed, holding lumps of soil and humus around them, which keeps the mother liquors in good condition until planting. Queen cells are planted in early dates under a shovel with row spacing of 70 cm, in a row - 30 - 40 cm. Root crops are tightly pressed with soil, their upper part should be at ground level. Care: loosening, before closing the rows, the plants lightly spud. 1st top dressing - during the period of leaf growth - ammonium nitrate (30 - 40 g per 1 m2). 2nd top dressing - superphosphate and any potassium (respectively 30 - 40 and 20 - 30 g per 1 m2) to accelerate the formation and maturation of seeds.

It takes 30-40 days from the beginning of flowering to the ripening of seeds. Seeds ripen unevenly, and therefore harvesting is carried out selectively. Interestingly, seeds after threshing have a lower germination rate than after storage in a warm room. Seeds remain viable for 2-3 years.

parsley in winter

We continue our conversation about the "green window sill" with recommendations about winter cultivation parsley.

Since the owners of home micro-gardens are primarily interested in parsley (after all, it takes too much time to form a root crop), it must be said that it is worth it to grow it, especially during periods of seasonal beriberi. After all, the content of vitamin C, for example, sometimes reaches 300 or more mg%, and carotene - 10 mg%. The set of trace elements is also rich.

Leaf varieties of parsley can be grown for greens by sowing their seeds in boxes, as they say, all over. True, the resulting mass does not promise to be plentiful, moreover, aging will drag on for up to three months. But if an amateur has preserved parsley roots and wants to get greens from it, then, as they say, the game is worth the candle: even the smallest of them will "work" for forcing leaves for up to six months.

When choosing root crops for planting in a micro-garden, carefully inspect each. If the root is partially rotted, then it is not worth planting. But most importantly - pay attention to the condition of the head of the root crop. There, under the remains of once cut leaves, there are growth buds, the number of which determines the yield of parsley grown for greens.

Some experts recommend soaking the roots a little before laying them in a box with a soil mixture that fills it by 15 cm. Then you need to "trim" the planting material, for which the ends of the roots are cut so that it is all the same length - no more than 12 cm. ( By the way, if the rot hit the root below the cut and the state of the latter shows that it did not make its way further along the core of the root, then such planting material is also suitable for growing on greens.)

The roots prepared in this way are planted in inclined rows, and the angle of inclination should be the same (for example, 45 °). Distances between rows - not less than 6 cm, and between plants in rows they can vary depending on the thickness planting material(3 - 6 cm). (All this is done so that the plants do not oppress each other, shoots and growth of greenery are more even). The heads of the roots when filling the latter with soil should remain open.

Milk bags, as well as plastic bags, are also excellent containers for planting parsley, but root crops are deepened vertically and without pruning. When this is done, plantings should be poured with warm water and put in a cool and dark place for two weeks, and with the appearance of leaves, rearrange on the windowsill.

Abundant and frequent watering parsley does not tolerate (rotting roots). Temperatures above 22 ° C are also detrimental to her. Loosening the soil and ventilation of greenery, on the contrary, have a very beneficial effect on the plant.

Green parsley ripens and is ready for the first harvest as soon as the rosettes of leaves develop well. Now you can cut the amount of greens you need at least daily. Greens from one square meter micro-garden you will get at least 2 kg, and root crops, perhaps more. Experienced gardeners already 5-6 weeks after planting, the parsley roots are harvested, and their harvest with the greens removed during this period reaches a total of 8 kg on the indicated area.

For the entire growing period, parsley will have to be "fed" only 1 - 2 times. Top dressing - a weak solution (up to 2 g per 1 liter of water) of nitroammophoska. Of the pests, it is necessary to beware mainly of "white mold", which can be successfully destroyed by dusting greenery with a mixture of chalk and ash, combined in equal quantities.

Parsley heals

We have already noted more than once that parsley has many medicinal virtues. What?

Parsley can serve as a diuretic, and helps with nephrolithiasis, inflammation of the bladder, urination disorder, especially in children, as well as digestion. From time immemorial, its juice has been used to get rid of "fever", strengthen the gums, eliminate bad smell from mouth.

used in medicine and essential oil parsley. Fresh leaves are used for mosquito and bee stings.

Parsley is fairly easy to grow and even easier to harvest, but for a better and more flavorful harvest, there are a few rules you need to follow. Parsley in the first year of cultivation usually collects leaves, while parsley in the second year of cultivation - seeds.

Steps

Part 1

Collection of parsley leaves

    Choose young plants. Young parsley is the most fragrant. Leaves can also be collected from parsley older than one year, but it is better to collect leaves from parsley of the first year of growth.

    Wait until three leaf segments appear on the stems. Check the stems. If the stems have three or more tufts of leaves, they are mature enough to be harvested. Do not touch stems with one or two segments.

    Cut the plant down. When harvesting parsley, cut off the greens at the root, and not just the top.

    • Cut parsley under the root stimulates the appearance more new, more lush and fruitful stems.
  1. Cut the leaves off the outside of the plant. If you need to use only a few small sprigs of parsley, cut them not from inside the plant, but from the outside of it.

    • Even if you want to cut a few whole branches at ground level, you must cut them from the outside, not the inside. Then the inner part of the plant will be able to develop more fully.
    • Removing the leaves from the outside ensures that the oldest parts of the plant are collected, which prevents them from turning brown and staying too long on the plant.
    • Gathering the old parts of the plant gives him the opportunity to focus energy on the production and maturation of new shoots. The result is a lusher, healthier parsley.
  2. Harvest constantly. Parsley grows throughout the season, even after you harvest the leaves. In addition, you will have fresh parsley all the time, instead of harvesting it all at once.

    • Parsley grown on outdoors, usually remains bright green until late autumn or early winter. As soon as the color begins to fade, the aroma is significantly reduced. Until this happens, you can harvest continuously without fear of damaging the plants or reducing their flavor.
  3. Harvest the entire crop at the end of the season. If your parsley is left unprotected outside, it will die in the winter. Before this happens, harvest the remaining crop so that the plant can grow next year.

  4. Store and use parsley as needed. Parsley is best used fresh. It can be stored for several months if necessary, but if you dry it, the flavor will not be as strong.

    Part 2

    Collection of parsley seeds
    1. Wait for the second year of growth. Parsley does not produce seeds during the first year. If you are planning to harvest seeds, then you will need to grow a plant in its second year of life.

      • Parsley is a biennial plant. As a rule, parsley plants live for two years, and at the end life cycle bloom and produce seeds.
      • For maximum seed yield, it is recommended to remove defective or weak biennial plants at the end of the first season. Then pollination will occur between the most healthy plants and the seeds will be of good quality.
      • When harvesting and storing seeds, try to separate those seeds that ripen earlier from those that ripen later in the season. It is necessary to give preference to those seeds that have ripened earlier.
    2. Collect seeds when they turn dark. To collect all the seed heads, wait until most of the seeds are dark brown. If you collect the seeds a little earlier, they will not germinate well later.

      • Parsley seeds go through three main stages. Immediately after flowering, seeds appear light green or bright green. They acquire a yellowish-brown hue at the second stage of maturation, and at the final stage they become brown or other dark color.
    3. Cut off the seed heads. Make a cut right under the seed head. Pinch the stem just below the seed head with a large and index fingers. Cut off the stem just below the fingers.

      • Collect the seed heads carefully, shaking them as little as possible. Seeds may disperse if shaken. And since they are quite small, then, most likely, you will not collect them.
    4. Shake lightly. Gently shake the seed heads paper bag, you will easily and quickly extract most mature seeds.

      • You can also lightly tap or pull the seeds against a sturdy piece of cloth or plastic wrap.
      • Shake or remove the seeds with gentle movements. If you apply too much force, the seeds may scatter.
    5. Let the remaining seeds ripen. If some unripe seeds are still in the seed caps, you can let them ripen by placing the cut seed cap in the sun for a few days.

      • To ripen more seeds, cut stems are laid out on plastic sheets or dense pieces of fabric and placed on a straight line sunlight indoors. Spread the parsley stalks one at a time, in a thin layer, while they dry.
      • Unripe seeds should ripen within two days.
      • Keep the seeds indoors while they dry. If you dry the seeds outdoors, birds or other small animals can get to them.
    6. Take into account the possibility of staged seed collection. If some seeds ripen faster than others in the seed head, you can collect them by simply pinching with two fingers - forefinger and thumb.

      • Parsley plants tend to reach maturity at an uneven rate. Some seeds may be fully harvestable up to three weeks earlier than others, even if they are on the same seed head.
      • Be careful when pinching off the seeds. The force you apply to pinch off individual seeds can cause the stem to veer violently, and if there are too many mature seeds on the plant, the violent wobble will cause them to break off and fly off. Therefore, it is recommended to pinch individual seeds only when most of the seeds are not yet ripe for harvest.
    7. Dry the seeds. Seeds should dry for about 10 to 14 days before you store them for later use.

      • Dry the seeds by laying them out in a single layer on a low-sided baking sheet and placing them in a warm, dry place.
      • Turn and stir the seeds every day to ensure they dry evenly.
      • Seeds must be completely dry before storage.
      • Store dried seeds in airtight plastic bags or containers. Before planting, keep them in a cool, dry and dark place.
 
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