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How to replace a punch for siding. Notch punch for siding. Installation of siding "Shipboard"

Siding - perfect solution for facade cladding. Doing it yourself is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. Some are frightened by the abundance of details for cladding, and after reading the incomprehensible instructions for the kits, many completely abandon this idea. And in vain, because everything is not so difficult. And we will try to tell in the article how to install siding to a person who is very far from this.

The concept of "siding" means a group of panel elements for finishing the facade of buildings, plinth, balconies. In addition to the aesthetic component, it is one of the parts of the “layer cake”, which is designed to protect the building from atmospheric influences. The siding is the top layer of thermal insulation and waterproofing, it helps reduce noise levels and acts as a windbreak. Modern siding consists of parts that have a specific purpose for facing exterior walls. A complete set of elements will save you from thinking about how to make a corner or decorate a window at home.

elements of siding

Types of siding and finishing features

First you need to say a few words about the main types of siding in order to have an idea about the disadvantages and advantages of installation. Modern market represented by several types of siding.

1. Wooden siding is quite expensive, but environmentally friendly and beautiful. Facing with such material was used centuries ago. In our country, decorating houses with wood is a classic way to decorate and insulate walls, but it is believed that the idea wooden cladding came from the American continent. This finishing material is a lining, shipboard or herringbone. Disadvantages of installation: mandatory preparation of the material in the form of impregnation with an antiseptic, the danger of acquiring low-quality elements, for example, rotten or knotty - they may not be noticed in the total mass of the material. Another disadvantage wooden elements is the impossibility of fastening in rainy weather.
2. Metal panels - made from various kinds metal, covered with polymer protection and painted powder paints. The installation of such material is simple, and the disadvantage is the possibility of punching and denting. mount metal elements it is better at an average temperature of 10 to 15 degrees, since their thermal expansion and contraction are quite noticeable.
3. Vinyl is lightweight material, featuring a variety of colors and textures. Attaches to any surface and does not require special preparation. The disadvantage is the fragility and the impossibility of installation when low temperatures Oh. Never cut plastic in the cold and try not to work in extreme heat.

Types of sheathing

• When mounting the elements, overlap and lock joints are used. When locking, you apply minimum effort to snap the elements in, but too much force prevents the expansion gap between the parts. If it is vinyl, then the panel may warp, deform and break. After some time, the rows will become asymmetrical, and the violation of the harmonious order will become noticeable.
• For fastening, use only anti-corrosion screws, nails or staples. If this condition is not met, then soon rusty smudges will go along the outer lining. This will especially affect wooden material which may start to rot.
• Proximity of the fastener to the edge of the element is undesirable.
• If you cannot align the mounting hole and the hole in the crate, then a small expansion is allowed with a puncher.
• If there is no mounting hole on the part to be mounted, then it is unacceptable to make it with a nail. Use a drill or hammer drill. In general, try to use only factory holes. And to be sure that they are all present, buy only a quality product.
• Fasteners must be of such length that they enter the wall by at least 2 cm, and the cap size must be at least 8 mm.
• When using self-tapping screws, be sure to put a washer, preferably nylon, so the mount will be more reliable.
• Be sure to mount the nails straight - bent fasteners prevent thermal expansion.
• When mounting elements, it is necessary to leave temperature gaps everywhere. If they are not done, then when heated, the panels may rest against each other and deform or break. Subsequent cooling compresses the holes and they can pop out of the locks. Please note that when installing in the cold season, the temperature gaps must be made larger, and smaller in the heat.
• Another important point when using American and Canadian siding. Be careful, the instructions for the kits indicate the dimensions in inches, and to convert them to centimeters, use the measurement scale.

Some installation features

A detailed description of the do-it-yourself siding installation technology

Before starting work, it is necessary to calculate the required number of elements for cladding. Of course, you can entrust this to the selling company, providing some of the required measurements, but it will not be superfluous to check the calculations.

Calculation of conventional siding

Quantity calculation

All types of this finishing material have different sizes. It is difficult to give a simple formula for the calculation, but there are general points:

1. Determine total area finishes, subtract the sum of the areas of doors and windows and add 10% for overlap and cut. Divide the amount received by the number of panels in the pack, usually there are 12. This way you can determine the required number of packs.
2. To determine the number of finishing strips, you need to measure the perimeter of the building and subtract the length of the gables.
3. The H-profile can be calculated by calculating the sum of the lengths of the joints.
4. Internal and external corners can be calculated by calculating the length of the corners of the building.
5. Calculate the number of starting strips by subtracting the width of the doorways from the perimeter.
6. Calculate the number of soffit by calculating the distance between the roof and the wall. Add 5%.
7. Calculate the wind board and window trim as follows: divide the sum of the lengths of the cornices by the length of the wind board or window trim.
8. J-profile is calculated by the formula: count the perimeter of windows and doors and subtract the sum of the lengths of the lower sides. The resulting number must be increased by 20% for slices.
9. Calculate the drain calculation by adding the sum of the widths of the windows and the width of the side strips

An example of calculating siding for a house along with a price

Tools for the job

For installation, you need to prepare special tools so that the work goes smoothly and quickly. All that may be needed for cladding is shown in the photo. Some tools may not be needed for a particular type of panel.

Finishing Tools

Preparing walls for cladding

Before finishing, free the surface of unnecessary details: remove cash from doors and windows, remove lighting fixtures from walls, video surveillance cameras, remove weaving plants and tree branches.

Be sure to clean the walls old finish: beat off fragile plaster, bricks, paint. It is not necessary to level, but large irregularities are best repaired with putty.

Designing a sheathing for siding

The siding coating can be laid directly on the wall, but on condition that it is perfectly flat. It is extremely difficult to comply with this condition, besides, without a crate it is impossible to insulate the house and make it high-quality waterproofing and thermal insulation, because they themselves decorative panels cannot perform these functions qualitatively. Making a frame for siding is easy with your own hands. To do this, you need to stock up on a CD-60 metal profile or a high-quality wooden beam 40x50 or 50x60.

Types of crates for cladding

The crate is mounted directly on the wall with dowels or screws. To align the geometry of the wall, it is better to fix the profile with brackets or special galvanized hangers.

Installation of siding on the crate is more even, durable and of high quality. For the manufacture of the frame, a plumb line is used and laser level, and therefore you can be calm for the ideal rows of facing slabs. In addition, with this method of finishing between the upper decorative layer and a ventilation gap is formed by the wall, which saves the facade from premature destruction.

Thermal insulation fixing

Heat-insulating plates help to bring the dew point from the walls to the outside, insulate the house, make sound insulation and wind protection. interior spaces, protect from summer heat. Siding cannot be mounted on a heater, and therefore a frame is made. Mounting under the crate, inside the cells and double insulation is possible. Mineral wool slabs are fixed with "fungi" to the wall or pressed with slats. The figure shows how you can fix the thermal insulation under the siding.

Insulation under the cladding

J-profile installation

Starting the installation of the starting strips, remember that the entire cladding design depends on how evenly the guides are laid. First of all, take the level and find the bottom of the crate. Now you need to indent 5 cm up and put a mark. You can drive in a small carnation or screw in a screw a little.

We will make marks of a similar plan around the perimeter of the building. Everywhere we check the level and put a mark. At the same distance, we screw in the screws in the corners of the building. Now you need to pull the cord through all the marks. Next, using the level, we outline the boundary of the installation of the starting bar, as shown in the photo. Do not forget to make a centimeter gap for thermal expansion between the profiles and 6 mm from the starting bar to the corner element.

Setting the start profile boundary

Attachment of outer corners

We mark the size of the soffits and apply a corner element with a 0.3 cm gap to the edge of the soffit or roof and 0.6 cm below the starting bar. After checking the vertical, we fix the part from below and along the entire length, but not too often. When fastening high corners, the profiles are overlapped by 2.5 cm. If you need to cut the panel, then use metal shears or a hacksaw with frequent teeth. For vinyl, use a cutter or an abrasive wheel on an electric saw.

You can not use expensive corner profiles, but use two J-profiles, but keep in mind that then the corner will not be so beautiful and airtight.

Installation of outside corners

Fastening of internal corner elements

Mounting internal corners is not particularly different from working with external ones: we leave a 3 mm gap between the spotlights and lower it 6 mm below the starting bar. Pay attention to the photo: there are three main types of fastening of internal corner elements. Splicing of planks is carried out with an overlap.

Installing inside corner pieces

Mounting the framing of openings

Working with openings is slightly different depending on the location of the opening to the wall plane. If the opening is in the same plane as the facade, then we perform the work as follows:

1. We do waterproofing.
2. We frame the window with a J-profile or platbands. We connect them.
3. For a neat articulation with a casing, we will make cuts on the sides of the profile.
4. We bend the bridges to deflect precipitation.
5. We remove the excess material that prevents the connection and connect the profile so that the bridges are inside.
6. We cut the lower profile and bend it to secure the lower bar.

Connection of window openings

For windows recessed into the wall, the technique is about the same, we just use a near-window profile, and not platbands. Be sure to figure out the correct bending of the walkways, as this will help to avoid moisture getting inside the profile.

Framing of window openings

Installing the first panel

We start the installation of the first panel always from the corner. We insert the lock connection into the starting bar and fasten it to the crate. Do not forget to leave temperature gaps: with the lower edge of the corner panel 6 mm, and if work is carried out in cold weather, then 9 mm.

Setting up the first panel

Panel extensions

We overlap any panel, but first shorten the lock by an overlap of 2.5 cm. We do this carefully using scissors for cutting metal, as shown in the photo.

Panel extensions

Fixing the rest of the elements

The H-profile is mounted in the same way as the corner one: we retreat 0.3 cm from the top and drop 6 mm lower from the bottom.

Important! Any docking with the H-profile must have an indent of 6 mm.

Installing the finish panel

We assemble panel by panel according to the principle of the first part. Remember to check the horizontal every 2-3 rows. We remove the excess near the opening and secure the panel with a hook. At the bottom of the opening, we install the finishing profile, which will allow you to align the finish on the plane.

Under roof finish

We fix the J-profile under the roof again. Now you need to measure the distance between the bottom of the finish piece and the lock of the last panel. Next, you need to mark the edge panel, subtract 2 mm from the measurement obtained and cut off the lock. The next step is to make hooks in increments of 20 cm. Insert the resulting part into the penultimate element and snap it into the finish bar. The pediment must be sheathed around the perimeter with a starting profile or internal corner strips. The photo shows well the work with the upper part of the house and the bottom of the roof. You need to fix the gable in the same way as the rest of the panels: cut and connect with the locks of the adjacent profile, not forgetting the 0.6 cm gap.

Under roof finish

DIY siding installation video instructions

Facing the house with siding yourself

Now you can make the installation of siding no worse than any finishing team, while saving a substantial amount of money on the work.

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Improve appearance at home or any other extension, you can install siding, moreover, it perfectly protects the walls from precipitation and wind blowing. This facade material is also used for cladding industrial buildings.

Siding is a practical and popular facing building material. It is produced in the form of panels with a length of 3 to 4 meters, each of which has a latch-lock and an edge with holes for fasteners. The siding has good performance characteristics and aesthetic appearance. Of the positive qualities can be noted:

• makes the appearance of the building more beautiful and neat;
• thanks to a large selection of panels, the house can be given an individual style;
• high-quality siding has a service life of more than 30 years;
• installation can be done independently;
• is a safe material;
• when dirty, it is easily cleaned with water and detergent.

Poor-quality and cheap siding burns out under the influence of the sun after 2 years, since a small amount of titanium dioxide is added to it during production.

Finishing panels are available in a variety of textures, and come in a wide range of colors. Siding is made of several types:

1. Metal;
2. Vinyl;
3. Basement (fiber cement);
4. Acrylic;
5. Wood.

Let's take a closer look at each type:

• Vinyl siding it is made of polyvinyl chloride and in appearance can copy finishing materials made of stone, wood and brick. The panels are lightweight and resistant to mold and decay. The material is non-toxic and not damaged by pests. Vinyl products do not conduct electricity and have a low cost, but are not resistant to mechanical stress.

• Acrylic siding is a new finishing material, and according to technical indicators almost the same as vinyl. At the same time, it is very durable, has a more resistant coating to UV rays. The panels have a long service life and do not deform from high temperatures. It is also resistant to aggressive substances and non-flammable. Acrylic siding has one drawback - the high cost.

• Metal siding is steel, aluminum and galvanized. This material is strong, durable and safe for environment. The panels do not change their original shape with temperature changes and are resistant to oil and chemical substances. Mold cannot grow on its surface and pests do not eat it. Metal siding has several disadvantages. When the protective coating peels off, rust forms on the panel. When it rains, there is a lot of noise. Metal siding is more expensive than vinyl siding.

• Wooden siding or facade lining is the most environmentally friendly material and has excellent thermal insulation performance. Produced from coniferous and larch wood species. So that the panels do not darken and do not crack, they are applied protective covering. The price of the material depends on the type and type of wood.

• Fiber cement panels are made from high quality cement, cellulose fibers and sand. The outer side of the plate has special coating protecting against moisture and sun rays. The material is non-combustible, and also it does not rot or grow moldy. Fiber cement siding is weather resistant mechanical damage and deformation. Does not contain harmful substances and is environmentally friendly. Service life - 25-50 years, depends on the manufacturer and external conditions.

Installation of battens with waterproofing and insulation

Before installing the siding, it is necessary to make a reliable frame. The sheath can be made from wooden beams or metal profiles. Attached to the walls with brackets. The racks of the crate are fixed opposite to the direction of the siding, that is, if the panels are mounted horizontally, then the crate is made vertically, and vice versa. The distance between the elements in the structure depends on the weight of the siding - the heavier the material, the more often the racks are attached.

Step-by-step instructions for making a crate:

1. The surface of the walls is prepared, drains and all protruding parts are removed.
2. If necessary, the walls are primed, wooden surfaces are treated with an antiseptic.
3. Using a level and a plumb line, places for attaching suspensions are outlined. They are placed every 40 cm, retreat from the edges of the walls by 15 cm, from inner corner- 10 cm.
4. Drill holes, insert dowels and mount U-shaped brackets.
5. Beams are fastened along the edges of the wall, a rope is pulled between them.
6. The remaining vertical beams are mounted.
7. In increments of 40 cm, horizontal metal profiles are installed.
8. Above the plinth, above and below windows and doors, horizontal elements of the crate are fixed with the help of a “crab” connector.
9. Mineral insulation is laid between the posts and under the crate, overlapped at the joints. It is attached to the wall with dowels-umbrellas.
10. The mineral wool and the crate are covered with wind and vapor barrier insulation. The edges of the film are stacked on top of each other and glued with construction tape. It is fixed to the crate with double-sided tape and counter rails.

You can insulate the walls immediately after installing the U-shaped brackets. Thermal insulation material it is put on suspensions and fixed with umbrella dowels, after which it is covered with waterproofing, and a crate is mounted for installing siding.

For regions with a warm climate, thermal insulation is not done, and for cold zones, the thickness of the insulation should be at least 15 cm.

Installation of the starting bar

Before mounting the starting bar, ebbs are installed. They are fixed with self-tapping screws with a distance of 40 cm between them. When docking, the ebbs are placed on top of each other. Overlap width - not less than 2.5 cm. even angle use the building level.

The starting or starting bar refers to the elements that carry the load. It is installed from the upper edge of the ebb or at the very bottom of the wall. The first sheet of siding is being installed on it. The initial bar is fixed, referring to the level, since the evenness of the entire wall cladding depends on its installation.

Installation of the starting bar:

• from the lower border of the future sheathing recede upwards by 4 cm;
• using a level, make marks on all vertical racks of the crate or make marks on the wall if there is no frame;
• the initial bar is set with the upper edge to the marks;
• fixed with screws in the middle of the factory holes;
• the starting strips are attached so that the distance between them is 0.5 cm (this gap is necessary for thermal expansion);
• the same distance should be from the edges of the corner elements or the width of the corner profile plus 12 cm.

Why do you need a J-profile

• The J-profile is a versatile, load-bearing siding element. It happens ordinary, arched (flexible) and wide.
• A regular J-profile is needed to complete the facing row at the end of the wall, to sheath the edge of the eaves or to replace the finishing panel.
• Wide is usually used to decorate door and window openings.
• Arched is used along the edge of the opening, which has the shape of an arch. The panel has notches where cuts are made at the required distance, so that it can be bent at the desired angle.
• J-profiles are fixed to the walls with nails or self-tapping screws.

How to install siding

Siding is fastened to the facade of the building or to the crate. Fastening methods depend on the type of facing material:

• Vinyl panels should only be fastened to the factory holes.
• For wooden cladding, it is recommended to use galvanized fixing fittings.
• The elements should be fastened evenly and straight, in the center of the factory hole.
• When fixing the siding to each other, they press it from the bottom up so that the top panel snaps into the lock of the bottom one.
• When installing the planks, it is necessary to leave a gap of 2 mm between them and the crate to expand the cladding during temperature changes.

Installation of internal and external corner strips

Corner panels are load-bearing elements. Fastened after the starting profile. Designed to close and fasten the edges of the siding, they also serve as guides.

Installation of corner strips:

• mount the panel so that its lower part protrudes 0.5-0.7 mm above the starting bar, and the upper edge does not reach the cornice by 5-7 mm;
• begin to fix the profile from top to bottom;
• the first self-tapping screw is screwed into the upper part of the factory hole, the rest of the fasteners are placed in the middle of the holes;
• the distance between the screws is made 20 cm;
• to lengthen the corners, holes for fasteners are cut off at the top profile to a length of 34 mm so that the planks overlap each other by 25 mm, and the remaining 9 mm are left for a gap;
• if the starting strips are located close to the corner, then the edges of the nail fasteners are cut at the corner profile to the height of the starting strip;
• internal and external corner strips are installed using a plumb line and level.

How to lengthen siding strips

When the siding is shorter than the length of the sheathed wall, a connecting bar is placed horizontally to lengthen the panels. The connecting profile closes the joints of the siding, which makes it more durable, protects against precipitation under the cladding. In addition, this way the appearance of the facade will look more beautiful, and look like one whole.

You can also lengthen siding panels using the "overlap" method. Profile sheets should be arranged in a checkerboard pattern, avoiding butt joints at the same level in a row. The overlapping length of one panel on another must be at least 5 cm, with the obligatory coincidence of the factory holes for fasteners.

H-profile installation

H-profile refers to additional load-bearing elements. Used to connect two horizontal sheathing panels if the wall length is over size facing material. It is also used when connecting soffit (cornice) siding.

The fastening of the connecting strip starts from the top of the wall. The first fastener is made in the upper part of the hole, the subsequent screws are twisted in the middle of the holes. The H-profile from the cornice should recede 0.5 cm, and be 6 mm below the starting bar. On both sides, the connecting profile has an indent of 0.6 cm from launch pads, that is, it is located between them.

During installation, the siding is inserted into the H-profile not to the stop, but to leave a gap of 5-6 mm for thermal expansion.

Installation of ordinary siding panels

For a smooth and neat finish of the facade of the building, it is necessary to use a level, the length of which must be at least 80 cm.

The first siding panel is inserted with the end side into the corner bar, and the lower part is inserted into the initial bend-lock and snapped into place. Then, if necessary, it is pulled up to align the horizontal row. Twisting the fasteners on the panel is done from the center to the edges. It is necessary to leave 5 mm between adjacent strips for thermal expansion.

Fasteners must not be fully screwed in. A gap of 1-2 mm is left from the screw head to the panel. You cannot drag the profile up after interlock connection it will snap into place on the starting bar.

Subsequent rows of panels are installed in a similar way - one side of the siding is placed in a corner groove, and the other in an H-profile or in opposite corner. The installed panel snaps into the lock of the previous one and is screwed to the crate.

Facing the facade with siding is mounted to the top of the wall, but so that there is room for the installation of the finishing strip and the last profile.

Siding finish strip

The finish line is decorative element, which is used for a beautiful and airtight finish on the top edge of the last panel. Mounted with the side with the factory mounting holes facing down and the panel latching facing up.

The order of installation of the finishing strip:

• the bar is mounted with screws at the very top of the wall, under the eaves;
• the distance from the top of the finishing bar to the installed panels is measured, and 0.3 cm is subtracted from the result; if the width of the profile sheet is greater than the distance, then the upper part is cut off from it;
• at the cut-off panel (without the upper part), holes are made every 10 cm with perforating pliers;
• for the prepared plank, the lower part is inserted into the lock of the previous profile, and the upper part is inserted into the lock fastening of the finishing panel and snapped into place.

Fasteners are screwed on the finish bar through 3-5 holes and in their center.

How to siding around windows and doorways

Before sheathing the siding, the openings of windows and doors are trimmed with special additional elements (platbands). Rails are fixed along the perimeter of the inner side of the window (door), to which the finishing profile is screwed.

At the upper and lower window trims, the edges on the inside are cut by 2 cm, and bent in the form of "tongues". The upper and lower trim is inserted into the groove of the finish, then fixed with screws to the crate. When installing the side window trims, the "tongues" are brought inward.

If the width of the siding panel does not fit under the window or above the window (or door), it is shortened to the desired depth along the width of the opening. At the cut point, holes are made for fasteners, which should match the factory ones in size. After that, the siding panel is slipped under the window element and fixed. Bottom window opening a low tide is installed, the upper edge of which rises from the window along its entire length. The width of the window tide should be 5 cm larger than the opening.

Above the window (door), the profile is mounted in the same way. For wall cladding on the side of the openings, the panels are cut to the required length. Then they bring it under the platbands.

When wall cladding is made with highly embossed siding, for example, a block house, then the installation of window slats is done after the installation of the panels.

Pediment sheathing

At the final stage, proceed to facing the pediment. If the attic will be used for living quarters, then the gable is insulated.

First prepare the roof overhangs and the end of the roof. Remove old sheathing, ebbs and wind boards. The roofing material is cut so that it is flush with the front overhangs. The crate under the gable siding is done in the same order as on the walls.

Gable siding installation:

• if the wall of the house and the pediment are separated by a cornice, then the tide strips are mounted;
• along the perimeter of the pediment, J-slats are fixed or the starting one is below, and the finish one is above;
• corners are made from a metal profile and strips of external corners are installed;
• since the shape of the pediment has an angular slope, a piece of siding is used as a template to apply cutting lines to it;
• the connection of the panels is done with an overlap or with the help of an H-bar;
• top - ridge siding sheet, fixed from above directly through the panel, it is better to drill a hole in advance.

The cornice is finished with a special facing material- soffit. For the installation of panels, the edges of the eaves are sheathed on the inside with slats. J-strips are attached to them. Soffit siding is flexible enough that it can be easily installed with a slight downward bend and is wound into the grooves of the J-bar. A click is heard when the panel is correctly inserted. The distance between them is 0.2-0.3 cm for thermal expansion. The installation of roofing strips - drippers completes the cladding of the building. They are placed on the outside of the slopes.

You can install siding with your own hands. The main thing is to strictly follow the manufacturer's instructions and follow all recommendations. You should buy building materials in one batch at once, so that it is enough to finish all the walls, plus 5-10% more than the calculated amount (for fitting). Additional elements are purchased from the same manufacturer.

For exterior finish buildings, structures actively used siding. An inexperienced person will quickly get confused in a variety of materials, there are several technologies. When installing siding, it is important to stick to the plan, slowly completing each step.

Do-it-yourself installation

When installing siding, experts follow the instructions:

1. Material preparation.
2. Procurement of accessories for installation.
3. Design, layout.
4. Lattice installation.
5. Foundation preparation.
6. Fixing guides.
7. Installation of a profile under a siding.
8. Corner installation.
9. Finishing around windows.
10. Framing to taste.
11. Panel installation.
12. Fronton trim.
13. Walkway under the roof.
14. Final score.

We mount the crate

When installing siding, everything rests on the material, so it is recommended to do it conscientiously. Well-known and less popular materials are available, each with its own advantages. For fasteners, the condition of the surface is taken into account. In general, the following main stages of work can be distinguished:

1. Decide on the material.
2. Take care of the foundation.
3. Install guides.

The first stage - choose the material

According to the material for a residential building, they choose between metal, wood. The easiest way is to buy bars of the required thickness, but the metal has its own characteristics. Durability is taken into account, plus it is suitable for drywall, but thermal conductivity affects. For wood, it is not necessary to use a heater. The metal is considered durable, but after a while it will be overtaken by corrosion.

To fence off this trouble, materials with a galvanized surface are used. If we consider large residential buildings, it is foolish to hope that there are bars of an ideal even shape. With any change in temperature, the wood is driven in an unknown direction, and in places a large degree of curvature. By physical laws even a small bar, when the humidity increases, twists like a drill. Metal, in turn, is ideal in any situation.

The second stage - preparing the base

Regardless of the square of the building, you will have to start from the corners. Bars or profiles are fixed in vertical position and checked by level. Further, a cord is stretched between the blanks, you can use a regular thread. This is the easiest option, there is no need to install a laser level on the wall.

When installing the trellis big role plays the pitch of each section. Many are repelled by quadrature, but other factors will have to be taken into account:

1. Selected material type.
2. Surface condition.
3. The need for a heater.

Also at this stage, platbands and drains are prepared.

The third stage - set the guides

When the siding is fastened from top to bottom, the bars are laid in a horizontal position. Wooden blanks are better fastened on self-tapping screws. Nails are used as additional fasteners. Considering concrete structure, you can not do without pre-drilling holes and further installing dowels.

We mount J-profiles

To prevent the panels from warping during operation, it is necessary to set the profiles according to the level. To do this, it is recommended to follow the instructions for dummies:

1. Applying markings to the railings.
2. Self-tapping fixing.
3. We make marks around the perimeter.
4. Level check.
5. Mounting the starting guide.
6. Gap check.

The profile should not rest against the corner, an indent of 6 mm is observed. If, when fixing the dowel, the bar is skewed, it is necessary to remove the fastener and re-install it. In the future, it will not be possible to correct the position of the element; it is worth double-checking in advance.

When attaching external corner profiles, the following instructions are observed:

1. Marking with a marker.
2. Sample profiles.
3. Self-tapping fixing.
4. Level check.

The slightest deviation is unacceptable, the distance between the clamps is about 400 mm, the indentation from the edge is 6 mm. The stores sell a profile of various lengths and when applying elements, the minimum overlap is 9 mm. To work with workpieces, an electric saw with a high torque is used.

Important! If professional tool missing, metal scissors are useful, in extreme cases, a hacksaw with fine teeth is taken.

We mount internal corner profiles

According to the technology, the fixation of the internal corner profile may differ. Workpieces with a length of 1 meter or more are used, and the elements are overlapped. In the upper part, it is necessary to provide a ledge, which is attached first. In total, 3 popular options for installing a profile are known:

1. Using a zigzag element.
2. Vertical fastening.
3. Horizontal fixation.

An indent of 10 mm is observed between the slats, fastening occurs from the upper workpiece.

We mount the frames of the openings

If the house has many windows, doors, a novice master may get confused. To get it right, it's important to follow a plan:

1. Waterproofing of openings.
2. Fixing platbands.
3. Profile attachment.
4. Final finishing.

If there are problems with the platbands, you will have to carefully remove the excess material. Initially, incisions are made, then the workpiece is gradually bent. If the material is deformed, the elements will not fit together. The profile must fit snugly against the bridge, distortions are not allowed. If we consider wide frames, the bridge has to be bent.

Openings in the same plane with the facade

As in the case of platbands, near window profiles love precision. At the first stage, the depth of the opening is estimated, then the bridge is prepared. The specialist is obliged to understand the finishing elements in order to prevent moisture from entering the surface. When the opening is flush with the facade, a slope is not required.

Apertures recessed into the facade

To make a slope with your own hands, measurements are made, bridges are prepared. All finishing elements should be at hand; at the end of the work, the profile is fixed.

Installing the first panel

Siding installation begins with rear wall Houses. Various surprises are possible, it is important to be prepared for the worst scenario.

Overall plan:

1. Panel installation.
2. Connection check.
3. Fixing to the crate.
4. Level check.

When fixing the panel to the crate, a person evaluates the technological indent. The parameter depends on the ambient temperature, in summer it is less than 6 mm, and in winter the panel is set to a distance of 9 mm.

We build up panels

If a non-H profile is used, the panels are overlapped. This method is considered simpler, since there is no need to check the locks. The minimum indent from the top of the soffit is 0.3 cm (the panel is laid with an overlap of 3 cm). A large indent is allowed from below, the distance from the guide is taken into account.

Installing the rest of the siding

According to the technology, the whole house is facing, it is recommended to take the level after installing 2-3 rows of siding. To avoid fiddling around the edges for a long time, it is recommended to shorten the panels in advance.

Interesting! In order to level the cladding along the plane, a finishing profile is used.

We mount under the roof

Only the J-profile is suitable for the wall, and when installation is carried out, the specialists act according to the plan:

1. Measuring the distance between the panels.
2. Markup for finishing elements.
3. Calculation of indentation from above and below.
4. Siding preparation.
5. Cuts are made on the panel.
6. Checking the hooks.
7. Siding fixing.

We mount the pediment

Gables are found in various shapes, but they begin to sheathe them along the perimeter. At the same time, the necessary fasteners are installed in the central part, the starting profiles are fixed in level, and the inner corners are checked. As in the case of wall panels, available various technologies installation.

To speed up the siding installation process, it is recommended to trim the elements in advance. Most often, difficulties arise precisely with locks, since the indentation is not respected (at least 6 mm). If the last panel does not become, then the level has swum, you will have to redo everything.

Features of installation in winter

If you install siding in the winter, there is a high risk of doing something wrong. The discomfort of workers due to low temperatures is taken into account, and technology is additionally taken into account. The material can react differently to frost, the difference in humidity is taken into account. The main thing is to prevent significant overheating of the material, try to keep a stable temperature.

If you unload the panels near the heating devices, its deformation will definitely occur. When vinyl siding is on hand, it should only be exposed indoors. Panel preparation also takes place under the roof. Already at a temperature of -5 degrees, the plastic becomes unusually fragile. Even if you work with a grinder, a big crack can go, so the specialist decides for himself the possibility of bending the workpiece, this is displayed on the amount of marriage.

As mentioned earlier, when working in winter, the indentation of the panels is taken into account. In the cold, the siding will definitely become smaller and straighten out when it gets warmer. In order not to miscalculate the gap, it is important to leave a distance of 6 mm. If the temperature does not rise sharply, everything will be fine.

Compensation for the length of the workpiece is partially extinguished by the adjacent panel. Another secret lies in the use of fasteners, self-tapping screws are considered effective, but nails increase the chance of damaging the siding. Elements with a 2 mm head are selected, self-tapping screws are fixed clearly in the center, work is not allowed along the edges.

Do-it-yourself siding dismantling

If you do not want to contact specialists, you can make an independent dismantling of the siding. Such work may be required when the panels are deformed, or the window is moved. Also, often the owners are looking for better quality siding and want to replace it.

Important! From the tools for dismantling, you will need an unpacker, as well as a nail puller.

Special skills are not required, the main thing is to follow the step-by-step instructions. The unpacker can be sold in the store, but it is easy to do it yourself, you only need a plate with a sheet thickness of 3 mm. Touching on the theme of the nail puller, tools with a wide foot are suitable. If we consider compact models, the likelihood of damage to the insulation increases. Also, inexperienced builders with screwdrivers are able to break through the membrane.

Dismantling begins with the lower slats, everything is done easily, without excessive physical effort. The big advantage is that the construction site you can do without a partner. Finished panels are recommended to be laid side by side on a pre-prepared site. All the work is that the unpacker needs to pry off the panel from the bottom side.

Then there is a tightening on itself, the siding is shifted slightly down. If everything is done correctly, the lock opens, the panel is easily detached. Some will have difficulty with fastening, since the life of the elements is taken into account. If the siding was installed recently, it is much easier to detach it.

The problem is that the plates lose their elasticity during prolonged use, they are easy to break in half. Thus, it is recommended to work carefully, not to make sudden movements. Having reached the starting bar, a previously prepared nail puller will come in handy. Fasteners are hooked from the top side.

Cost of siding installation

If there is no possibility or desire to independently install the siding, you need to familiarize yourself with the price list:

1. Installation plastic siding on the wall - per square meter 250-300 rubles.
2. Hemming the roof - prices from 300 rubles. per square meter.
3. Work with fiber cement siding - 700-800 rubles. per square meter.
4. Fixing the film - price per m2 60 rubles.
5. Collection and installation of wooden crates - 100 rubles. per metre.
6. Lathing on a brick surface - the cost per square meter is 200 rubles.
7. Collection and installation of a metal crate - the cost of work is 400 rubles. per metre.
8. Installation of a metal crate on a brick - 500-550 rubles.
9. The use of insulation with a thickness of 50 mm - 100-150 rubles. per metre.
10. Fixing insulation with a thickness of 100 mm - the price for the work is 200 rubles.

cost of siding removal

If you find a little-known company, it will dismantle the siding at a price of 100 rubles. per square meter. There are individuals who take up work at a price tag of 500 rubles. per square meter average price 300 rub. per metre. This cost includes the following steps:

1. Departure of the brigade.
2. Inspection of the object.
3. Removing siding.
4. Dismantling of decorative overlays.
5. Removal of slats ebbs.
6. End closures.
7. Dismantling planks.
8. Frame disassembly.
9. Removing the trim.
10. Removing the heater.
11. Final disposal of materials.

Siding is an excellent material for cladding a house. This rather inexpensive and long-lasting material can be installed with your own hands even by a person who does not have special building skills. To do this, just study the installation instructions for siding and watch the video material.

Wall surface preparation

Before starting work on the installation of panels, the walls of the sheathed building must be carefully prepared.

First of all, you should:

1. Remove all protruding window sills and ebbs.
2. Remove all kinds of fasteners, downpipes, existing moldings from the walls.
3. Remove loose plaster from the plastered surface.
4. On the wooden walls, nail all the lagging boards and replace the rotten ones.

After that, you can proceed to install the frame, which can be made of metal profile or wooden beam.

Profile mounting

Experts recommend using a durable and strong metal crate, which you can attach with your own hands even to an uneven base. Such a frame is installed with a half-meter step and attached to the surface with the help of suspensions. This will fix the structural elements in level and smooth out surface differences.

When choosing a wooden crate, you should note for the following points:

• the material should not have traces of rot and bluish spots;
• it is unacceptable for the bars to be deformed;
• the material must not flake.

To wooden crate served for a long time, it is impregnated with an antiseptic or flame retardant.

Profiles or bars are installed vertically on the wall of the house. They are attached to a wooden surface with self-tapping screws or nails. If the building is built of bricks or concrete blocks, then holes are drilled in the walls into which dowels are hammered.

Rules for fastening the frame of the crate:

1. Bars are mounted every 40 cm.
2. The rails should be fixed around all doors and windows, at all corners of the building, at the bottom and top of the siding.
3. The crate must be securely fastened.
4. The plane formed by the frame must be strictly vertical.
5. The panel is attached to at least two bars.
6. The front parts of the bars should not have distortions.

When installing the profile with your own hands, you must use a plumb line and a long level. With their help, the surface must be carefully marked, and the verticality of the plane carefully checked. Otherwise, the facade cladding may turn out to be uneven and wavy.

If the building must be additionally insulated, then the space between the lathing bars can be fill with special material. Under siding, it is recommended to use mineral wool in slabs. It is better not to lay loose insulation under the panels, since it is often deformed during operation. To make the surface of the house even, the thickness of the material must be equal to the thickness of the bars.

Sequence of work for home insulation:

1. Plates are fastened between the bars of the crate.
2. A diffusion wind-hydroprotective layer is installed on top of the insulation, which is fixed with perforated membranes.
3. Bars with a section of 4x2 cm are stuffed, with the help of which a gap for ventilation is provided.

Siding installation: video instruction, stages of work

Before starting work, prepare the following tools:

1. Roulette.
2. Building level.
3. Screwdriver.
4. Perforator or drill.
5. Electric jigsaw or knife. With their help, the panels will be prepared in size. Experts recommend using a jigsaw, after which a more beautiful cut is obtained.

You should be aware that if a grinder is used to cut panels, then it can only be used at low speeds. Otherwise, the cut of the vinyl sheet will heat up and melt.

Starter bar attachment

To a wooden or metal crate, the first siding panels are attached from below, and then each subsequent one is placed above the previous one. Due to this, the insulation and surfaces have an additional rain protection.

The correct installation of the entire cladding depends on the initial bar attached around the entire perimeter of the building, so this type of work should be approached with all responsibility.

1. The lower mark is marked (a self-tapping screw is screwed in or a nail is driven in), which should be 50 mm higher bottom point crates.
2. Such marks should be made on all walls of the building. At the same time, a thread is pulled between the screws, the correct tension of which is checked by the building level.
3. On a stretched thread with the help of chalk, a line is marked along which the starting strips will be installed. As a result of the work, the start and finish marks should match.
4. Attach a bar to the corner crate and mark the boundaries of its location.
5. Stepping back from the marked border of 6 mm, you can proceed to fixing the starting profile. Do not forget that the distance between the slats should be from 10-12 mm. This is necessary so that during temperature changes they do not touch.
6. When using brackets as fasteners, the gap between them and the profile should be 1 mm.

Some experts advise immediately installing starter strips on door and window blocks. But the need for them does not always arise, since the sizes of windows and doors are often not ideal, and ordinary profiles may end up not at the level of the initial bar.

Do-it-yourself installation of corner profiles

Ordinary panels will be installed in the corner strips, so they are mounted first.

Mounting Features:

In order for the appearance of the building to look harmonious, the joints at the corners and the connector must be on the same level.

Installation of siding around openings

Openings can be located in the same plane with the facade or be recessed into it. That's why installation of panels around openings can be done in two versions.

If the openings with the walls are in the same plane, then the waterproofing is first mounted, and then 4 platbands are attached to each opening and the panels are connected. To prevent connections from being visible, the following rules must be observed:

• make incisions-bridges on both sides of the upper profile with your own hands (they should be equal to its height);
• bend the bridges down;
• on the side profiles, remove pieces of material that interfere with the connection;
• connect the side and top panel of the siding so that the bent bridges are inside;
• connect the lower casing and side elements, in which bridges are notched on the sides.

The incised bridges go down so that atmospheric precipitation from the upper bar goes to the lower one.

If the openings are recessed into the facade, then the cuts on the profile must be equal to the depth of the opening. All other work is carried out in the same way as when installing platbands. The bridges should be bent so that the joints of the cladding parts are not visible. In this case, moisture will not get inside.

Installing the first panel

When doing the installation of siding with your own hands for the first time, it is recommended to start installing the first panels on the most inconspicuous side of the house.

1. Insert panel into corner profile and connect to the lock of the initial strip, leaving a 6 mm gap.
2. Attach the plank to the crate without tension.

Vinyl siding in the cold season can increase its size to 18 mm. Therefore, when installing it, it is necessary to strictly observe technological indents. If the cladding is installed in the winter season, then the gaps should be 9 mm, if in the summer - 6 mm.

Siding extension

Panels are stackable overlap or with H-profile.

1. Before overlapping, locks and fixing frames are trimmed so that the overlap length is 25 mm.
2. When installing the H-profile, 6 mm should be retreated from the starting strip at the bottom, and 3 mm at the top from the soffit. If there are protruding obstacles on the facade, 6 mm should be retreated from them, that is, the H-profile should not touch them. The H-profile is overlapped, in the same way as the corner strips.

Features of the installation of the main siding

To securely fasten the panels, a punch (special punch) is needed, with which “hooks” will be made.

From the bottom of the panel falling on the opening, a part is cut off equal to the width of the opening plus a double technological gap of 6 mm.

The strips cut off at the ends will be able to move in the lock of the near-opening profile and provide a margin of 2 mm.

A finishing profile must be installed in the lower part of the opening, with the help of which the cladding is leveled in a plane.

When installing siding with your own hands, it should be remembered that every third row of panels must be checked for horizontality, using a level for this.

under the roof J-profile should be installed, work with which is carried out in the following order:

1. The distance between the lock of the penultimate and the lock of the last panel is measured, from which 2 mm is subtracted by an indent.
2. On the whole bar, the result is noted and the upper part with the lock is cut off.
3. In the upper part of the resulting element, “hooks” are created, the distance between which should be 20 cm. For this, cuts are made that are bent to the front side.
4. The prepared panel is installed in the penultimate plank and connected upwards to the lock of the finishing profile.

The building is completed with siding along the perimeter of the pediment. To do this, you can use the start profile or panels for internal corners.

Installation is similar to installation of wall panels:

Since the profile will not be visible under the roof, the remains of the panels can be used to finish the gable.

Do-it-yourself siding installation will not cause difficulties if you first study video lesson and during work, strictly follow the instructions, as well as the advice and recommendations of specialists. As a result of such a finish, you will get a house that will delight the owners with its appearance for many years.

The key to proper installation of vinyl siding is strict adherence to the installation instructions and proper planning of the process. Correct installation This best guarantee that the siding will confirm its high reputation for quality. The installation method for vinyl siding and soffit is basically the same for both new builds and existing properties. However, we offer instructions for both of these cases. For each installation, the object must be properly prepared. We recommend that installation workers review local building codes before starting work.

How to take measurements

All buildings can be divided into the simplest geometric figures: rectangles or triangles, or a combination of both. The space to be covered with siding can be determined by measuring the height and width of the house, including windows. Next, you need to add up all the obtained measurements. Usually the squaring of windows and doors is included in this amount. This will provide a supply of material in case of a shortage. If the doors and windows are very large ( Garage Doors), then it is better to exclude their quadrature from total amount measurement.

Basic principles of installation

Before proceeding with the installation, it is necessary to observe a few general rules. Vinyl siding, like all PVC building materials, expands and contracts with temperature changes. The level of compression and expansion can reach 9.5mm. This property of the material must be foreseen in advance in order to prevent deformation of the siding, which will spoil the appearance of the building. For correct installation vinyl siding should follow these rules:

1) Do not store siding in places where the temperature exceeds 60°C (i.e., on black surfaces in unusually hot weather, or under plastic packaging where there is no air access).

2) Installed panels should move freely from side to side.

3) When installing the siding panel, apply pressure from the bottom up until the lock is fully connected to the bottom piece. Do not push the panels up or down when attaching them. Pulling the panel upwards shifts the natural radius of the panel and increases the friction of the locks.

4) Always drive the nail into the center of the nail hole. WARNING: do not drive a nail into the end of the hole! This will cause irreparable damage to the panel. If you need to drive a nail near the end of the hole to get into a batten, etc., increase the length of the hole with a puncher.

5) Do not nail tightly. Leave a gap of 1 mm (approximately the thickness of a small coin) between the nail head and the panel. Drive nails straight in to prevent distortion and warping of the panel.

6) Leave a gap of at least 6.4 mm on all holes for natural expansion and contraction. If installation is performed at temperatures below 5 °C, increase the minimum clearance to 9.5 mm.

7) Do not seal the panels where they connect to the inner corner recess, outer corner or J-profile. Do not seal panel overlaps.

8) Do not drive nails or staples through the siding. Vinyl siding expands and contracts with temperature changes. Driving nails through the siding can cause the siding to crack.

9) During long-term operation of a building lined with siding, it may be necessary to replace some panels.

10) Do not use wooden planks made of young, poorly dried wood as battens. Keep in mind that siding is only flat and stable if the material underneath is even and stable.

Basic tools and equipment

To properly install the siding, you will need the most common hand tools, such as: hammer, jigsaw, square, chalk, level and tape measure. We recommend special goggles to protect your eyes. Other main tools include:

electric saw

A bench or radial electric hand saw can speed up the cutting of siding. For cutting siding, a panel with thin teeth (from 12 to 16 teeth per 2.5 cm) is suitable, while the panel must be installed in the opposite direction.

Vinyl is easy to cut, trim with a knife or a plastic cutting tool.

Tin shears

Well-sharpened tin shears will speed up the cutting of vinyl.

Punch

The punch is used to punch "lugs" along the edges of the siding, for mounting the top of the wall or under window openings.

Perforator

Sometimes it becomes necessary to lengthen the nail holes. They are lengthened to allow the siding to expand and contract naturally.

Panel removal tool

With this tool, the siding panel is removed or replaced. Insert the curved end of the tool under the edge of the panel and grab the back edge of the lock with it. To open the lock, pull down and move the tool along the panel. The same procedure, but in the opposite direction, is carried out to re-fix the panel.

Siding cutting

When cutting siding, observe the following conditions:

• It is always recommended to wear safety goggles during any cutting operation. As in the implementation of any construction works use the necessary protective equipment and follow the safety regulations.
• When using a circular saw, set the fine tooth blade (for plywood) to reverse side for a softer and cleaner cut, especially in cold weather. Cut slowly. Attention! Using the blade installed backwards when cutting any other material may not be safe.
• When working with sheet metal shears, do not cut along the entire length of the shears, use only 3/4 of the shears blades so that the cutting is more accurate and clean.
• Start cutting the panel from the top, fastening part. When working with a knife, make an incision without applying all the force, and break off along the incision. No need to cut through the vinyl.

Choice of fasteners

Use aluminum, galvanized steel, or other anti-rust nails, staples, or bolts when installing siding. All fasteners must be long enough to extend at least 20mm into the frame or batten.

Nails

The head of the nails must be at least 8 mm in diameter. The stem of the nail should be 3 mm in diameter.

bolts

The bolts must enter the hole strictly in the center, while there must be a distance of at least 1 mm between the bolt head and the vinyl. The bolts must enter the frame or crate by at least 20 mm; galvanized self-tapping screws are suitable for sheet metal, size no. 8.

Staples

If staples are used instead of nails or bolts, they must:

1. Enter the frame or crate at least 20 mm.
2. Have a wide head so that the siding can move freely (0.7 mm from the edge).

Preparing for installation

Make a work plan in advance. Check that the surface is level and prepared for installation and level where necessary. The surface must be level with different angles vision. In order for siding to perform properly, it must be installed over "weather resistant" material and properly installed insulation around all openings and where vinyl siding meets other vinyl siding. building materials such as brick, stone or plaster. Keep in mind that additional isolation measures can ensure better protection against water penetration than the minimum requirements we recommend.

Installation of siding on a building under construction.

Make sure all nails and insulation are installed. On new properties or if the old façade cladding has been removed, we recommend that moisture-resistant plywood be installed under the siding.

Installing siding on an existing facility

Attach any loose boards and replace any rotten ones. Remove shutters, gutters, lighting fixtures, etc. around doors and windows. Vinyl siding should be installed over rigid sheathing that provides a level, flat surface and is thick enough to hold nails. You can also change the insulation and insulation.

Siding fasteners

Vinyl siding can expand and contract 9.5mm or more in 3m increments due to temperature fluctuations. Whether you use nails, bolts, or staples to fasten your siding, follow these guidelines:

Make sure the panels are fully joined along the entire length of the bottom edge, but do not force them up when fastening.

Do not drive nails or staples through the siding. This can lead to cracks in the panels.

Don't nail the head of the fastener too hard into the siding. Leave at least 1 mm (thickness of a small coin) between the hat and the vinyl. Failure to follow this rule will warp the siding when temperatures change.

When fastening, start from the center of the panel and move towards the edges.

Place fasteners in the center of the nail holes to allow room for expansion and contraction of the siding.

Drive nails straight in to avoid distortion and buckling of the panels.

Start fastening the vertical siding and corners at the top of the topmost holes to secure them. All other fasteners should be centered in the holes, spaced a maximum of 40.5 cm apart for horizontal siding, 30.5 cm for vertical siding, and 20 to 25 cm for accessories.

Installation in areas with strong winds

To improve wind resistance, use 15.88mm nylon washers with a 6.4mm hole when nailing the siding panels.

horizontal siding

Step 1

Determination of the starting point First you need to determine where you will install the first row of siding. It may be flush with the old siding, or if it is a new object, at a level that covers the edge of the foundation. Use paint tape and a level to establish a horizontal starting point so that all siding to be installed is level. Use a plumb bob at all corners to ensure the corners are vertical. Perform the following steps in the order indicated for the easiest and most complete installation.

Step 2

Before the siding itself can be hung; need to install a whole range of accessories first, ventilation space (6.4mm)

Setting angles

Cut the corner to the required length, leaving a distance of 6.4 mm between the top of the corner and the eaves or soffit. Start driving nails at the top of the topmost nail hole on both sides of the corner, securing it. The remaining nails should be driven in the center of the holes at a distance of 20 to 30 cm from each other.

Note

• To fasten the corner panels together, place the top piece on top of the bottom piece, cutting off 2.5 cm of the nail edge on the top piece. The overlap should be 2 cm, we leave 0.5 mm for the expansion of the panel.
• This method will result in the connection of the 2 corners being visible, but the water will overflow through the connection and the possibility of its penetration will be significantly reduced.

All corners should be cut so that they look the same, and there should be room for expansion of panels from 6 to 12.5 mm under the first row of siding.

Step Z

starting strip

In order for the siding to be installed level, the starting strip at the bottom of the wall must also be level. Using a tape measure, measure the width of the starting strip. Determine (as in Step 1) where the bottom edge of the first row will begin. From this mark, measure the width of the starting strip minus 12.5 mm and draw a straight line across the wall with chalk. Using this line as a guide, set the top edge of the starter strip along the bottom of the line, nailing at 25cm intervals. The starter strip should be 6mm from the nail edge of both the inside and outside corner. Leave a gap of 12.5mm between the edges of adjacent starting strips for a natural expansion of 12.7mm.

Step 4

Windows, doors and roof. window insulation

Before installing the siding, install insulation under the window. Then on the sides. The bottom insulation must be installed under the overlap. The insulation should be long enough to direct water over the nailed edge of the last row of siding panels.

platband

(T) A vertical J-profile or trim is used around windows and doors to secure the siding. You can use the following trim mounting options: Bend the cut-out part

In the first option, make a double incision (1) on the side of the casing and bend the "eye" of the upper part of the profile down so that you get a drain from the side of the profile (Fig. A)

The same notch (1) can be used on the lower edges of the side architraves. Bend the tab inward at the bottom of the window so that water cannot enter under the eaves (Fig. B).

Cut the top trim so that it is longer than the width of the window or door and cut drain channels from both ends of the panel using the cut (1).

Connect the corner cut for the side profiles (2) with an overlap with the upper channels. The profile should fit neatly to the window.

Finishing overlay

This profile is used over and under open openings, as well as in the upper part of the wall, which is adjacent to the soffit. Attach the batten panel to the bottom edge of the window sill. Install the finishing strip by pulling it past either side of the window to the level of the outer edge of the J-profile. The finishing strip is also used in an inverted J-profile above the top edge of windows and doors, and where the profiles join with window frame. Seal where the J-profile and architraves connect to the opening frame.

Low tide

The flashing is used under the openings of windows and doors, and is insulated using the closing part of the J-profile. An eyelet is cut off on both sides of the tide and folded over the J-npo fillets. If you want to keep the corner of the panel, the ebb is nailed to the panel of the crate.

Step 5

Installation of siding panels

The first panel is inserted into the starting strip and nailed. If the panel can be moved from side to side after it has been fixed, then everything was done correctly. Continue nailing at 40.5 cm intervals (no more than 20 cm in strong wind areas). Leave 6 or 9.5 mm of space where the siding connects to the accessories to allow room for expansion. When installing in freezing conditions, leave 12.5 mm.

Stack the panels on top of each other at half the size of the factory marks. To give the siding an attractive appearance, the panel joints should, if possible, not be on the visible side of the façade and should be staggered horizontally at least 61 cm apart from one row to the next. Do not repeat or overlap vertically in less than 3 rows. When overlapping, do not drive nails closer than 15 cm from the edges of both panels.

Installing siding around windows and doors

To install siding under windows and doors or under eaves, measure from the bottom edge of the lock of the finishing strip to the bottom edge of the top lock of the last full panel of siding. Add 1.6 cm to the resulting distance so that the edge of the panel can enter the final strip. Cut the panel to this distance below the windows. Using a punch, punch the "lugs" along the cut portion of the panel at 20 cm intervals. Make sure the "lugs" are facing the front of the panel. Insert the top edge of the panel into the final strip and attach the lock to the bottom edge of the panel. To fit the siding over windows and doors, cut the bottom section of the panel, leaving a 9.5mm gap on both sides of the window so that the horizontal edge of the cutout fits into the finishing strip.

Installing siding around appliances

If there are any external objects in the wall (for example, drainpipes), you can install accessories specially designed for such cases, or you can cut the siding panels so that they fit under the obstacle in contour and shape. Always start a new row of siding at similar locations on the wall to avoid excessive overlap. The hole must be cut 6 mm larger than the bulge itself.

Step 6

Works on the top edge of the wall

The siding is measured and installed at the top edge of the wall in exactly the same way as under windows and doors (see instructions above) except that whole panels of siding are used. To install gable siding, install a J-profile along the corner of the gable against the soffit. Cut the siding to the desired angle and install the soffit into a J-profile, leaving room for expansion.

Transition from horizontal to vertical siding

Finish the last row of horizontal siding with a J-profile and/or a finisher strip. Install the drip tray and J-profile. The top section of the J-profile should have 6mm holes drilled every 60cm. so that the water that enters there has a drain.

vertical siding

Plan your panel placement. The basic installation rules are covered in Steps 1-6 for horizontal siding. Drill drainage holes every 30.5 cm in the bottom section of the J-profile.

Working with accessories and panels in a vertical position, place the first nail at the top edge of the top nail hole. This will allow the panel to hang on the nail in some way. Place the rest of the nails in the center of the holes.

Step 1

Install horizontal battens at 30.5 cm intervals, or continuous siding under siding, if necessary, to level the surface or provide sufficient underlayment for nailing (2 cm).

Step 2

Draw a vertical line for the starting strip. Set the corners at the same level or slightly below the chalk line. The J-profile must be inserted into the corner gap. Remember to leave 6.4mm for siding expansion.

Step Z

Install J-profile around windows and doors and along eaves. The J-profile at the top of the open space must pass over the side section of the J-profile at a distance of 6.5 mm. Cut and fold this top piece down over the side section of the J-profile. This will create a drain for the water.

Step 4

To make vertical siding easier to assemble, it's best to start at the corner. Fill the corner channel by driving a 5 cm piece of board into it. Cut off the bottom fastening part (snap) of the first panel and punch on the edge of the "lugs" with a punch at 30.5 cm intervals. Make sure that the lugs come out to the front side of the panel.

Push the section with the punched "lugs" into the section of the final strip and secure. Join and nail down subsequent panels. Measure and cut the last panel to the desired size, punch the "lugs" around the edge and insert into the final strip in the corner. Note: Before installing any siding, measure the width of the wall to make sure the last panel will fit into the final strip in the corner.

Installation of vertical siding on gables

• First, install J-profiles around the perimeter of the gable, overlapping. If horizontal siding is installed below vertical siding, see previous pages.
• An overhang from the top of the pediment perpendicular to the starting strip will help you draw a smooth vertical coated line. You can either start in the center using an H-profile and start stripes on each side, or from the corners towards the middle. To achieve a harmonious look, determine where to install the first panel - measure from the chalk line along the starting strip until the distance to the J-npo is less than the width of the panel.
• Mark this point with a pencil.
• Measure 3 cm back to the center of the gable from this point and draw a vertical line parallel to the one you drew earlier. This line is where the edge of the first panel will be.

Determine the angle of the roof

Every 3 panels, be sure to check that they are exactly vertical, and also measure the distance to the center chalk line to make sure that when you get to the top of the gable, the center gutter will be level with it. Make small adjustments as needed by moving the panels within the locking area. The castle should "look" away from the middle.

Note: on top of the roof, install the J-profile so that it is 1.27 cm away from roofing material but not directly on its surface. J-profile can be used as a separator between siding and roofing.

Soffit and bevel

Requirements for under-roof space ventilation equipment

Proper ventilation in the attic is very important for any home. Re-read local building codes for under-roof ventilation equipment in order to take into account the structural features of the weather in your area.

Step 1

When installing a soffit, your main task is to install 2 parallel profiles - one on the house and one on the bottom bevel section - that will hold the soffit panel. Depending on the configuration of the truss and chamfer on the house, there are several options for installing the chamfer and receiving channels for the soffit. J-bevel or plain bevel can be used with accessories such as J-profile and F-profile.

Step 2

The best option is to choose a method that is most effective in conjunction with the construction methods used. Study the illustrations and install the receiving channels using the configuration that best suits your needs. design features your object. The channels must be fixed with nails every 30.5 - 40.5 cm.

Step Z

Inserted canopy

When installing soffit with awnings inserted, start by installing a J-profile along the chamfer wood plank and along the edge of the wall flush with the bottom chamfer section. Cut the soffit panels 6.5 mm shorter than distance A (see figure) and install it by fastening the panels together. Fasten with nails. If you are removing an existing wood soffit or moulding, you may need to level the surface with a 2.5 - 5 cm batten.

Step 4

exposed rafters

To install the soffit on an open beam, attach an F-profile to the front wall, and a J-chamfer or an F-profile and a chamfer to the chamfer board. Then you need to cut the soffit to the width of the hole and place it in the middle. In cases with beams wider than 60 cm, we recommend additionally strengthening them with nails in the center of the beams. J-n profiles are attached to the extreme beams. Soffit panels can be nailed into these beams and fixed at the ends into J-profiles. Hemming corners can be made in 2 versions: - simple corner - complex corner.

Step 5

Difficult angle

Set the H-profile diagonally across the corner, then cut the soffit panels to fit the angle formed by the H-profile. To get the "best" external result, cut the soffit panels so that the center v-grooves line up. Porch ceilings can be covered with solid soffit. If the ceiling is wider than 30.5 cm, you can use the PN profile to hide the seam.

Step 6

Chamfer

The final strip is installed along the upper perimeter of the chamfered wooden board. Measure the width of the front side to the end strip and add 16 mm so that you can insert a chamfer into the end strip. Join adjacent bevels with an overlap of about 2.5 cm. To do this, cut 3.8 cm from the bottom of the bevel joint. Nail one end of each chamfer. Position the nail as shown in the illustration so that the top of the mating chamfer covers the nail. Be sure to pre-drill a 4.5mm hole in the bevel for this nail.

Step 7

Chamfer fasteners to the chamfer board

If you're installing a regular bevel, this is one of those rare cases where you can drive nails through the siding. Drive the nail through the V-groove in the soffit panel using small-headed nails. If a soffit is nailed to a chamfer board, it will expand in one direction, towards the opposite receiving channel. Leave room for soffit expansion.

Vinyl Siding Care Instructions

Vinyl siding is very practical material, it is unpretentious, attractive and does not require special care in order to look great. However, like any product that is operated on outdoors Vinyl siding will need your attention from time to time. If you follow our vinyl siding cleaning tips, your vinyl siding will always look good. the best way. Vinyl siding can be cleaned with a regular garden hose. However, if the contamination is too strong, you can use a soft cloth or a long-handled brush with soft bristles along with the hose. To remove contaminants indelible with water, use a special solution: 1 part detergent(eg Tide) and 2 parts trisodium phosphate (eg Soilax) per 4 liters of water. In some geographic areas with high humidity air, problems associated with the appearance of mold can occur. To clean it in the above solution, you need to replace 1 liter of water with 1 liter of five percent sodium hydrochloride (for example, Clorox). To remove particularly stubborn stains, abrasive cleaning powders (such as Comet or Ajax) or stain removers can be used without damaging the siding. The greatest damage they can bring to a siding panel is scratches and, as a result, surface roughness. Such damage is already invisible at a distance of several meters from the house. Before using cleaning powders, we recommend pre-rinsing the upholstery with water from top to bottom. Cleaners should only be left on the surface of the siding for a few minutes, after which they must be thoroughly rinsed with water.

Attention! Do not use cleaners containing organic solvents, pure chlorine (which can "whiten" the surface of the panel), grease removers, nail polish removers, thinners, or furniture polishes. These products can damage the surface of the siding.