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Waterproofing floors in public baths. Methods for waterproofing the floor in a bathhouse. Non-leakage floor: protection against moisture

Bathhouses, saunas and steam rooms are functional auxiliary buildings with high humidity, and the waterproofing of the floor in the bathhouse determines its durability. Wooden building at the dacha can be built on summer season when cracks are made in the floors to allow water to drain naturally. However, the capital structure on suburban area For year-round visits, it is imperative to build according to all the rules, with insulation and waterproofing of the floor.

What is important to know about bath floors?

The country bathhouse is constructed from different materials, including cast walls and brickwork, but in many regions it is common to build from natural wood. This universal material, but with excess steam and moisture, any wood is susceptible to rot, mold and other fungal infections. To avoid having to redo everything after a couple of seasons, it is better to provide proper insulation of the bathhouse:

• foundation;
• floors;
• walls;
• ceilings;
• outlets of all communications.

Water, even with a single flood, can damage a structure, especially when there is constantly high humidity in the building and there is water on the floor. Excessive moisture destroys brickwork, reinforced concrete products, wood and Decoration Materials. A primitive building with a specific microclimate can be built without any special frills. But even if this is waterproofing the floor of a bathhouse on stilts in a permanent building, everything must be done thoroughly regarding fire safety and protection from bending.

In order for a bathhouse to bring nothing but positive emotions for a long period of time, it is important to protect all surfaces from destruction by moisture in stages:

• waterproofing the foundation and floors in all departments;
• vapor barriers and insulation of walls against the formation of condensation with waterproofing;
• vapor barrier and waterproofing attic space or roofing.

The absence of these measures and a complete outflow of water with the possibility of ventilation after using the bathhouse leads to stagnation of used water and rotting of materials. It's unpleasant for anyone to walk on dirty water and slip on wet surfaces. A dry, insulated and clean bathhouse is hygienic, safe and comfortable. Therefore, be wise about all protective measures House master care must be taken at the design stage of the building, starting with the foundation, as well as with waterproofing the walls and floors in the bathhouse.

When laying communications and arranging the floor in the bathhouse, drainage should be provided in all rooms and a slight slope in the floor - as in the figure:

If everything is done correctly, then all used water will go into a special hole. This is the simplest gravity-flow system, but it does not exclude waterproofing the floor in the bathhouse. The drain chute must be made of stainless steel or polymers. The place of the water where the feet stand should be insulated from the metal, not too hot or cold. It is advisable that the drainage funnel be away from the place where water procedures are performed.

Attention: When waterproofing the floor in a bathhouse, materials should be applied only to a dry surface, depending on whether they are rolled or poured materials with penetrating characteristics.

Types of waterproofing of the lower surface

High-quality insulation and waterproofing of the floor in a bathhouse is only possible taking into account the characteristics of the base and the type of water drainage from the room:

1. Solid non-leaking floor with drainage made from traditional materials.

2. Leaking floor, lined with sanded boards with a small gap or with drilled holes, where the outflow is expected. Cold floor with cracks and drainage under the bathhouse - only for the summer option.

Attention: When purchasing materials, it is important to make sure that there is a marking indicating that installation is permitted during damp room. They also give preference to non-rotting varieties coniferous species wood treated with an antifungal compound.

Properties of penetrating floor waterproofing

The simplest way to waterproof a non-leaking floor is to treat it with bitumen mastic according to smooth surface, after that it is lined finishing layer finishing. This method provides high-quality protection from moisture, but there are some disadvantages, for example, the specific smell of the material, which takes a long time to erode.

Under the waterproofing flooring, a polymer membrane, glass roofing material, hydroglass insulation and other non-degradable materials are used. The mastic is applied with a brush with an overlap of up to 10 cm on the wall material to make something of a waterproof pallet, on top of which it is laid wooden boards, tiles or other suitable flooring.

Classic concrete waterproofing - effective method, but it is not practical for small country bathhouse. It is used in the construction of swimming pools and permanent structures or for waterproofing a concrete floor in a city bathhouse.

Waterproofing with polymer-cement compositions is known for excellent adhesion, leveling of the treated surface, strength, and environmental friendliness. Seamless waterproofing guarantees the greatest effect and is suitable for any room.

Important: When performing seamless waterproofing, special attention is paid to areas where communications pass, opening passage to the foundation.

Sometimes a leveling (self-leveling) mixture is used to level the floor, which provides an ideal surface. It interacts well with any type of penetrating insulation - polymer-cement, concrete or polymer-self-leveling.

Features of waterproofing wood floors in a bathhouse

Advice: Before waterproofing the floor in the bathhouse, you need to wait a period of time after the foundation has settled to ensure the integrity of the coatings. It is better to combine all insulation processes with thermal insulation (expanded clay, mineral wool).

Wood is an ideal eco-material for a bathhouse, as it is susceptible to fungal infections and rotting. High-quality waterproofing of a wooden floor in a bathhouse and impregnation of boards protective compounds allows you to control these processes. This requires:

• handle wooden joists for laying bath floors;
• lay the sheathing on the subfloor, including backfilling with drainage;
• pile up to 100 mm of timber onto the base and lay a layer of film hydrobarrier;
• pour expanded clay between the beams;
• lay the subfloor;
• complete the finishing of the floor.

Euroroofing felt, membrane materials or aquaizol are used as the main insulating material. The roofing material at the joint is welded or glued with hot bitumen. Between insulating layer and wooden flooring, be sure to leave a gap of 2-3 kg - for ventilation and to counteract the formation of condensation.

Waterproofing a concrete floor in a bathhouse using Gidroizol is no less effective. In this case, sheets of plywood are nailed to the rough base. The polymer sheet is laid on this base with the ends of the segments placed on adjacent walls. It makes sense to leave the lower ends of the finishing board on the wall temporarily loose, and complete the process after completing the main work.

Features of waterproofing concrete floors

For those who do not know how to properly waterproof a bathhouse floor over a concrete floor, it is important to take into account their specifics. Concrete is known for its reliability, coating strength and durability, but even in such a bath, waterproofing is done properly. When the concrete screed has set, they proceed to arranging protection against water penetration under the floor, as is done with any other type of foundation.

In regions with cold climates, ice may form on the floor if the bathhouse does not have proper thermal insulation. At the same time, even rapid heating of the room is not effective. The use of highly flammable polystyrene foam is undesirable. A layer of waterproofing must be applied on top of the thermal insulation layer to protect against freezing in the winter.

Concrete mixture is applied to a smooth rough floor surface, leveling the base as much as possible so that there are no distortions when finishing floor. Apply 2-3 layers to the cleaned surface waterproofing mastic, on which roll materials are laid - a thin membrane or a denser roofing felt.

A construction hairdryer is used to seal the seams. A reinforcement mesh is placed on top of the waterproofing and a layer of concrete screed is again made. It is important to be careful not to stain the wall finish when using masking tape. On top of the layer of screed and waterproofing of the floor in the bathhouse, non-slip porcelain tiles or other suitable finishing are laid under the tiles.

Attention: If the bathhouse is a typical log house with a concrete base, then all work on heat and waterproofing is done after the initial shrinkage of the wood. That is, the main work is carried out 1-2 years after completion draft stage construction, but before finishing.

Waterproofing the floor with liquid glass

The process of treating a bathhouse floor with liquid glass is almost no different from a similar technology for silicatizing concrete structures. This is the most economical method, and it takes less effort and time. Using liquid glass to waterproof the floor in a bathhouse, we create an analogue of penetrating insulation, but with a different material. This substance, when applied to reinforced concrete, foam concrete, concrete or bricks, provides a crystalline base to fill a solid base.

Liquid glass resembles molten rubber or resin, and this semi-liquid medium forms a waterproof layer. After pouring the foundation and rough preparation of the floor, this viscous transparent mass eliminates the penetration of air and moisture. The basis of such waterproofing is calcium (sodium) silicate with the addition of quartz sand and soda. The melted and frozen mass is crushed into powder, which is then diluted to a certain consistency. The main properties of the viscous mass after hardening:

• water-repellent;
• antiseptic;
• chemically neutral;
• fire protection;
• antistatic;
• high adhesion.

The service life of such waterproofing is short, about 5 years, the silicate mass is prone to self-destruction. The thicker the insulating layer, the longer it will last, especially if covered with protective paint.

You shouldn’t make a lot of solution at one time - it's going fast crystallization. After half an hour it sets, and nothing can be altered or added. It is advisable to have skills in working with the application of liquid construction suspensions, so that in half an hour, before the liquid glass loses its properties, you can treat a significant area of ​​the floor. For beginners in repair, such high-speed processing causes difficulty. The less solution is prepared, the easier it is to handle. But this waterproofing has advantages - the ability to work in conditions high humidity, penetrating cracks or holes treated with other materials.

Experts have learned to add liquid silicate mixture to other solutions to obtain new properties. For example, cement solution is often poured into liquid glass in a ratio of 10:1. Here it is important not to violate the ratio, since if the proportions are violated (in the direction of increasing liquid glass), the mixture immediately “tans.” But this property can be used to quickly fill suddenly formed gaps or cracks in the foundation and floor of the bathhouse.

Attention: If the proportions are not correct building mixtures Excessive crystallization can tear seams and surface joints. The crystalline structure is also susceptible to cracking when subjected to a sharp impact or other mechanical stress.

If ready-to-use liquid glass is stored in a sealed container, it does not lose its properties even with temperature changes. The solution first penetrates into all the cracks, after which you can add a little more to the failed areas. When the liquid glass dries (hardens), after about half an hour it is time to apply the next layer of insulation.

It is better to vacuum the cleaned surface to increase the adhesion of the solution to the screed. If there is any doubt about the integrity of the coating, it is better to further clean the surface with a spatula and a stiff brush to remove all unstable particles. After this, the prepared liquid glass is applied in a small layer with a brush or roller, and after crystallization, the process is repeated.

Experts apply waterproofing with liquid glass in uniform strips, for example, parallel to the wall distant from the door. On small area floor, you can pour the solution in portions, distributing it over the surface wide spatula or other tool. It is convenient to work with a wide paint spatula on a long handle or a spiked roller attachment.

Important: During application, air bubbles may form in the solution, which must be eliminated.

The finished insulation layer is removed at least 3-5 mm. Since the material is transparent, it is important not to miss any “bald” areas. Finished surface after complete crystallization, it is covered with a protective layer of polyurethane or acrylic varnish.

Special attention deserves a “warm floor” system in a bathhouse, which is best left to specialists. However, all work on arranging high-quality waterproofing can be done independently. When working with any type of waterproofing, it is important to follow safety precautions - work in protective clothing, ventilate the room well.

High temperatures and humidity, which form the microclimate of the bathhouse, can negatively affect the durability of the structure itself. Water protection is necessary for a bath made of any building material, but it is most relevant for wooden buildings. All structural elements need waterproofing: walls, ceiling, floor and foundation.

If work to ensure water protection was carried out incorrectly, this will lead to the proliferation of mold inside the building. It is worth taking a closer look at how waterproofing measures are carried out for each structural element baths

Carrying out waterproofing measures for the foundation, floor, walls and ceiling is possible using different materials.

To properly waterproof a foundation, it is necessary to place drainage material underneath it. A cushion consisting of sand and gravel is suitable for this. Its thickness is approximately 20 centimeters. Its inclusion in the design ensures that water does not stagnate under the foundation itself.

After installing the drainage, the formwork is installed, then the foundation is poured. After the concrete base has hardened, the foundation is waterproofed using horizontal and vertical methods.

Creating reliable hydraulic protection of the foundation is possible with the combined use of vertical and horizontal insulation.

Horizontal waterproofing is carried out using several layers of roofing material, which is laid directly on the foundation. The number of layers should be three or more.

Vertical waterproofing is more difficult to implement than horizontal waterproofing. It should start from the base of the foundation, and from above it should be joined to the horizontal waterproofing.

There are two main technological methods implementation of vertical waterproofing technique:

• Pasting. To implement it, fused rolled materials are used, which include bitumen and polymer substances. Also adhesive waterproofing can be carried out using polymer membranes. Important feature membrane material is considered to lack continuous adhesion to the base. As a result, the durability of the membrane does not depend on the deformation of the elements and the entire structure. Membrane materials can be installed on a damp base. The structure of some membranes includes stabilizing components that make them resistant to aggressive substances (alkali, acid, salt) and biological agents. In order to protect membranes from the action of oils, solvent compounds and fatty substances, needle-punched geotextiles are used.
• Coating. Capable of highly reliable protection of the foundation from capillary penetration of liquid. Produced using bitumen-polymer or bitumen mastics. As a result, you can get a seamless coating, which is applied either manually or mechanically using spraying. Before starting waterproofing measures, the foundation should be cleaned of dirt and unevenness should be eliminated using cement building mixtures.

The waterproofing composition is applied in layers, the number and thickness of layers are determined by the depth of the foundation. The next layer must be applied after the previous one has completely dried.

If you use polymer mastic materials when creating a waterproofing foundation for a bathhouse, then the requirements for the surface will not be so stringent: the moisture content of the base can be up to 8%. To check the readiness of the surface to continue work, it is necessary to 1 square meter lay polyethylene over the area. If condensed moisture does not appear on the film during the day, then a waterproofing compound can be applied.

In order to improve the adhesion of the concrete base and coating waterproofing you need to use a primer. A primer is a type of primer used to prepare the base for coating. Bitumen primer (which is used as a primer) can be purchased ready-made, but you can also use a homemade mixture. You should select a primer that matches the composition of the mastic material.

Plaster waterproofing of the foundation is carried out using a mineral-cement mortar, which includes additional components to increase moisture resistance. The thickness of all applied layers can reach 22 millimeters.

If the construction of a bathhouse is carried out near a reservoir, the quality of waterproofing of the foundation is of particular importance and should not be neglected.

Upon completion of waterproofing the foundation, it is necessary to fill the pit with rich clay around the perimeter. This allows you to form an additional waterproofing layer.

Waterproofing walls in a bathhouse

To waterproof bath walls (in the wash room, steam room and relaxation room), a new foil material is used.

In addition to providing waterproofing, it provides heat and vapor protection. The foil material is easy to install, its use does not affect the area of ​​the room.

The foil material option must be chosen based on the purpose of use. So, for the steam room, materials from kraft paper are suitable, and for the washing room and rest room - isokom, isolon, penofol.

Material for hydro- and vapor barrier, based on foil kraft paper, reduces the loss of steam, reduces heat loss through the walls, and prevents the accumulation of liquid in the walls. The absence of polymers in the material makes it possible to use it at a steam temperature of more than 100 o C.

• Implementation of waterproofing using foil material is carried out according to the following stages of work:
• It is necessary to vertically nail bars to the wall with cross-sectional characteristics of 40x40 mm.
• Between the bars you need to place insulation (40 mm thick).
• A foil waterproofing material is laid on top of the beam, which is fixed to it with a construction stapler.
• To join the waterproofing sheets, use aluminum-based tape.
• Next, the boards are fixed for the purpose of cladding.

The boards at the bottom of the walls are not nailed so that after the waterproofing of the floor is completed, it remains possible to isolate the joints of the waterproofing materials of the walls and the floor.

Floor waterproofing

Waterproofing the floor in the bathhouse is carried out after the insulation of the walls is completed. The technology of waterproofing measures in this case is determined by the material from which the floor is made. The most common flooring materials in a bathhouse are concrete or wood flooring.

A concrete floor is provided in the washing room and steam room, due to the fact that wood quickly rots in high humidity conditions.

Waterproofing the concrete floor in the steam room and in the washing room is carried out according to two options:

• Coating. The most popular type of waterproofing. To carry it out, the surface is leveled and bitumen or polymer mastic is used. If the instructions specify the application of a number of layers, then they are applied in a perpendicular direction.
• Pasting. First on rough floor Plywood sheets are fixed, waterproofing is laid on top of them. This material is asbestos-cellulose or asbestos cardboard, which is impregnated with petroleum bitumen. The edges of the waterproofing are placed on the surface of the walls, after which the joints of the waterproofing with foil wall insulation are secured with aluminum tape. After this, a reinforcing mesh is applied to the waterproofing and a cement screed is poured. Construction tape is used to protect the walls. Tiles are laid on top of the screed.

If the bathhouse is made of logs, then the floors are poured after 1-2 years of shrinkage. If you do this earlier, on concrete floor cracks form.

The best waterproofing of concrete floors in washrooms and steam rooms is achieved in a situation where an additional layer of coating waterproofing material is applied on top of the screed.

Waterproofing a wooden floor in a bathhouse is extremely important because wood is not resistant to moisture. Two options for floor insulation have been developed, which is determined by the design option. Floors come in leaky and non-leaky types.

Based on this, the waterproofing option is determined:

• The leaking type of flooring is used in warm regions and is a variation of cold flooring. In such a structural scheme, liquid flows down through the cracks between the boards and is absorbed into the ground or brought to the surface, which is determined by the type of soil. Such floors are simple and inexpensive to install. In order to increase the service life of a leaking floor, the logs must be treated special composition against rotting, the supports for the logs must be insulated with roofing felt or glassine, and drying oil must be applied to the boards twice. The completed subfloor must have high-quality ventilation, which will ensure that the floors dry out quickly.
• A non-leaking floor is more difficult to install, but it has the advantage of being warm. This floor option is installed with a ten-degree slope towards the central part in which the drain is located. How to waterproof the floor in a bathhouse if it is not leaking? Beams should be placed on the joists for support, a subfloor should be laid on them, then roofing felt or polymer film in several layers. The edges of the roofing material are lubricated with heated bitumen, and the joints of the film are covered with tape (insulated). Next a layer is laid heat-insulating material(glass wool or loose expanded clay). To achieve waterproofing of the insulation, several layers of roofing material coated with bitumen are used. Next, the finished floors are installed.

To ensure effective ventilation and prevent rotting of the wooden floor, after the waterproofing layer, a gap is left in front of the finished floor.

Ceiling waterproofing

It is carried out in a similar way to how waterproofing measures are carried out for walls. First, bars are nailed to the rough ceiling, and insulating material is fixed between them. Next, foil waterproofing is secured to the beams (the metallized side should face the inside of the room). Then he nails another row of bars, and the lining (finish ceiling) is fixed to them. This allows for optimal waterproofing protection of the entire room.

Requirements for waterproofing materials

In order to waterproofing works were effective, it is necessary to select materials that meet the following requirements:

• Weather resistance.
• Resistance to microorganisms.
• Water resistance is the property of not allowing liquid to pass through.
• Water resistance is the ability to retain characteristics when exposed to moisture.
• Durability.
• Vapor permeability.
• Resistance to temperature changes.
• Chemical resistance.
• Resistance to mechanical damage.

If the material meets all the listed requirements, it can be selected for waterproofing measures. When purchasing, you should also consider how to waterproof each structural element baths

Video: finishing and insulating the bathhouse

Thus, waterproofing a bathhouse from the inside is not difficult, although labor-intensive. It is important that this approach allows you to protect the structural elements of the bathhouse from the effects of excess humidity. For waterproofing measures to be most effective, it is necessary to use high-quality and suitable materials, and when choosing them, focus on the design features of the building.

Waterproofing a bathhouse is the best way to increase its durability and functionality. The correct combination of materials and methods of carrying out waterproofing measures will significantly increase the service life of the structure.

Waterproofing the floor is preferably done in a way that is universal for buildings made of any material. Reliable protection from the penetration of moisture will prevent the floor material from deteriorating, will protect the room from the development of fungi and mold, so the bathhouse will long remain a room that gives health and good mood. Concrete floors have a long service life - almost 25 years.

The installation of the floor of the future bathhouse is planned at the design stage. To keep the washing area of ​​the bathhouse warm, heated floors are installed in this room. Then you are guaranteed not to freeze while taking a shower between bath procedures.

sand cushion

The example considered is floors on the ground on top of a strip foundation. Floors on top of the ground are traditional for bathhouses, and strip foundation for them - the most suitable. This type of foundation is suitable for light buildings such as bathhouses, garages, and small log houses.

Starting the installation of floors, layer fertile soil remove 15-20 centimeters, exposing the clay. A sand cushion is made in this recess to protect the concrete screed from penetration groundwater. A drain pipe is laid on an even layer of sand, soaked in water and compacted by hand or with a special machine, in which a water seal is required to prevent the appearance of unpleasant odors in the room. The plug provided in the pipe will close its outlet in winter.

Waterproofing

On top sand cushion Overlapping with a slight overlap, a layer of waterproofing material is laid on the walls: roofing felt, PVC membrane or dense film. All seams waterproofing material carefully glued. A technological mistake would be to lay waterproofing under a sand layer; this will lead to moisture condensation, leading to cracks and breaks in the floor.

Thermal insulation

A material is laid on top of the waterproofing layer that will retain the heat coming from the heating elements of the heated floor. Thick foam plastic (at least 10 cm) and sheets of extruded polystyrene foam (5 cm thick) are suitable for this. Insulation sheets will not allow warm floor heat the ground, directing heat upward to the floor covering, so their main characteristics should be the following:

• mechanical strength;
• resistance to temperature changes.

The insulation is laid horizontally, evenly and dry. The tight fit of the thermal insulation boards guarantees the quality of the insulating layer. So-called cold bridges often appear on the foundation side. To prevent their occurrence, 4-5 cm of insulation is laid vertically.

Reinforced base and concrete screed, electric heated floor

A reinforcing mesh is placed on sheets of heat-insulating material, which will give the concrete additional rigidity. You can buy it ready-made or weld it from reinforcement bars. There is one more modern method reinforcement: adding a special additive to the concrete mixture - fibrin. This will create a powerful, monolithic reinforced concrete slab covering a thermal insulation layer; it will not collapse under loads and significant temperature changes, which is possible if you heat a bathhouse in winter. A layer of cement will prevent the underfloor heating cable from overheating and will serve as a reliable foundation for it.

In order to properly level the screed and ensure the required slope angle, use beacons made from a slatted profile. To prepare the solution you can use ready mixture or make it yourself from sand and cement. The guarantee of the quality of the rough concrete screed is the exact observance of the proportions of all components and their thorough mixing.

1. Cement. The floor in the bathhouse is rarely subjected to large mechanical loads, so you can choose any brand of cement.
2. Sand. It is not recommended to use river sand; the material must be washed and of natural moisture.
3. Plasticizer. Helps stir the solution, reducing its viscosity. The use of a plasticizer helps extend the life of the solution to 7-8 hours.

The proportion of sand and cement in the solution varies depending on the expected intensity of use of the room in the future. The solution is prepared manually or using mechanisms. It is mixed manually with a shovel on a special tray. After pouring water into the container, add cement and mix thoroughly, then add sand. You can use a homogeneous mass without lumps. The quality of the solution improves if a drill with a special attachment is used for mixing. Perfect smooth coating provide self-leveling mixtures.

It is recommended to fill the entire room in one go. An hour after pouring, the solution will set and it will no longer be possible to level it. Adding water will only worsen the result. The screed is poured from the wall opposite the door. Level the solution using the rule. To allow air to escape, several holes are made in the mixture. Stand on rough screed possible after one day has passed after pouring.

When the concrete slab becomes dense and rigid, you can lay the electric cable for the heated floor, then the surface is leveled cement screed. When the thickness of the resulting screed is less than 3 cm, its surface may crack. To securely fix the underfloor heating cable, use mounting tape.

For free flow of water, a slope is arranged in the direction of the drain ladder.

The installation of electric heated floors leads to an increase in electricity costs, but it also has its advantages. It is suitable for any floor covering, durable, temperature control is available, and can be installed under heavy floor coverings such as porcelain stoneware. The floor thermostat is installed on the wall and looks like a regular household switch.

Before pouring the screed, concrete surface remove dust and treat with a special primer for better adhesion of the layers.

Installation of porcelain tiles

— final stage bath floor installations. This material is strong and frost-resistant. The surface of each element must be rough so that the floor is not slippery. For greater safety, place it on the floor wooden gratings from beams. If you dry them after each use, these grilles will last a long time.

Wall edging

This stage is necessary so that the lower crown of the frame or the lower part of the brick walls does not get wet from the flowing water, and rotting does not occur, so the waterproofing of the floor in the bathhouse will be complete.

The work begins with installing and fixing several strong wooden blocks against the walls of the room to provide a ventilation gap. When the bathhouse is not in use, the ventilation gap ensures that the space between the bathhouse wall and the flange is completely dry. The bars are fixed according to the height of the future base. Mounted on bars moisture resistant drywall or DSP, onto the surface of which tiles are glued. To keep water within the resulting container, the joint between the floor and the flange is sealed with sealant. The space behind the plinth wall will be protected from water by tiles laid on top.

Russian bathhouse - what could be better on the weekend for tired skin, tired psyche and overworked body? Steam every pore of the skin, make it breathe and get rid of all the burden of negativity and energy donation over the past week. Every worker dreams of such a vacation!

The owners of their own bathhouses are incredibly lucky; they can afford such a wonderful vacation regularly without loss or expense, without leaving the confines of their own yard.

When arranging a bathhouse, it is necessary to take into account several basic rules - proper waterproofing, thermal insulation and ease of planning.

Why do you need floor waterproofing?

Start

Any building begins with a foundation. If it is not equipped correctly, then in the near future the walls of the bathhouse building will begin to absorb moisture from the soil through an improperly organized foundation or due to its complete absence. Therefore, the foundation should be built according to strict rules.

The depth of the foundation must be no less than the depth of soil freezing in the given region. After filling the level above the soil, be sure to cover it with a layer - for example, roofing felt. Fiberglass and bitumen mastic in the composition of roofing felt will not allow moisture from the soil to penetrate into the walls of the bathhouse.

The next step is the base

subfloor in the bathhouse

When the walls are raised, ideally the bottom row of the building, bordering the ground, should be treated with a waterproof coating solution. For example, standard bitumen mastic in molten form is applied to the surface of the walls of the base of the building and covers them with a waterproof layer. If the bathhouse is built immediately finishing material, you can cover the walls not with bitumen, but with a special polymer composition that penetrates the walls, deep into the pores and cracks, merging with their surface.

The final step is directly waterproofing the floor in the bathhouse

The choice of material depends on the type of base and finishing device. The most important thing is the elimination of moisture, proper drainage of sewer drains, and high-quality insulation of materials from the effects of steam and condensate.

For wooden floor

Laying roofing felt or other water-repellent material on the wooden sheathing of the subfloor.

1. The result should be secured using liquid bitumen mastic. It is melted and applied by coating method to roll material.
2. When it hardens, all rough surface covered with a sealed film, through which it is impossible for moisture to penetrate in any direction - neither from the ground nor from the floor surface.
3. Giving the level of the finishing coating a certain slope to allow water to drain and prevent moisture from stagnating on the surface.

In order to prevent the surface from freezing in winter, it is necessary to take care of careful thermal insulation. To do this, a heat-insulating material is placed under the waterproofing layer - glass wool or mineral wool, light reflector or special floor foam.

In the very center of water collection at the lowest level, it is necessary to organize the removal of moisture through a drain.

Protecting the concrete floor in the bathhouse

— Penetrating:

• Dehydrol luxury brand 3
• Luxury brand 12
• Gidropronik
• Penetron admix
• Calmatron
• Crystallisol
• Hydrotex
• Lakhta

A layer of liquid, quick-hardening insulating material is placed on the surface of the screed. Its smallest particles flow into every pore of the screed and fill all the unevenness. The surface becomes perfectly smooth and water-repellent. There are many types of such materials. Various brands offer their range of penetrating insulation. They are made on the basis of bitumen, polymers, fiberglass and other components that provide guaranteed protection against excessive moisture.

— Roll:

• Ruberoid
• Euromast
• Gidrostekloizol
• Glassine

The material is laid and glued using special adhesive compositions– bitumen or polymer mastic.

Waterproofing the floor in the steam room

pasting

Considering that this room has a huge influence of moisture, you should take utmost care to eliminate it. One example of a heat-moisture insulation pie is the following action plan:

1. Dry screed made of crushed stone 10-15 cm.
2. Sand cushion 5-10 cm.
3. Two layers roll waterproofing, the second layer is perpendicular to the direction of the first.
4. Cement-concrete screed.
5. 50mm polystyrene foam or mineral wool board.
6. Reinforcing mesh (diameter 8-10 mm, cells 150x150).
7. Cement-sand screed 4-5 cm.
8. Finish coating.

Another variant:

1. Subfloor in the form of a concrete screed (you can just compacted soil, you can have layers of expanded clay or logs).
2. A layer of glassine.
3. Cement-sand mortar screed about 3 cm.
4. Special floor foam (pink or blue) 10 cm.
5. Cement-sand mortar screed on the top and sides of the foam.
   To prevent the foam from floating, it must be pressed down with a load - bricks, boards, metal - something heavy.
6. Finish flooring.

A method of combating sudden temperature changes and the subsequent occurrence of condensation

A sheet of tin is placed at a certain distance (1-2 cm) from the furnace wall that heats up the most. The gaps on the sides are closed by bending the edges of the sheet metal and secured. The lower tin edge is placed 2 cm above the floor. Cold air from the floor is subsequently heated, warm air falls down below the level of the stove and heats it.

In this way, not only thermal insulation is carried out, but also waterproofing of the floor in the steam room.

Since the washing room is one of the main rooms in the bathhouse building, work on its installation must be carried out in full accordance with the technology, taking into account the slightest nuances. Even a minor mistake can make things worse operational parameters washing department. The solution to the question of how to make a floor in washing bath Right.

The conditions in which the floor covering is used in the washing room are characterized by the constant presence of high levels of humidity and frequent temperature changes. This must be taken into account in the process of designing a bathhouse and during its construction.

Requirements for flooring in a washing room

In order for the bathhouse floor in the washing room to be made with high quality and last long enough, it must meet a number of requirements:

• quickly and completely drain water, for which the floor covering is made with a slight slope to the side drain hole or arranged according to the so-called flowing technology. Naturally, you can drain the bathhouse yourself without involving specialists;
• ventilate well and dry quickly;
• be resistant to high humidity and temperature changes;
• it should be laid in such a way as to eliminate the possibility of drafts.

Types of floor coverings in the washing room

In private households, wooden (leaky or non-leaky) and concrete floor structures are usually laid in the washing sections of bathhouses.

As practice shows, the easiest option in terms of implementation is the leaking floor shown in the photo. On a pre-prepared base, which can be a concrete screed, a lower crown, support pillars, etc., logs are attached - they will become the basis for installing flooring from boards.

Floor elements are laid at intervals of 3-5 millimeters. It is through these gaps that water will be drained. Typically, leaking floor coverings are made dismountable. This design allows, if necessary, to remove the flooring and efficiently dry the boards outdoors.

The leaky option, easy to implement and inexpensive, has a significant drawback - it cannot be insulated. When a bathhouse is being built, floors in the washing room made using this method can be installed without creating a slope. Water will flow out through the gaps between the boards and then into the soil under the building.

When creating a non-leaking floor from wood materials, its elements are laid without gaps. This design does not involve disassembling boards. It is equipped with a slope in the direction of the drain hole. Next, the water enters the reservoir and is discharged outside the building through a pipeline.

Non-leakage flooring in the bathhouse in the washing department requires the presence of a rough base and laying a layer of thermal insulation. Particular attention should be paid to solving the problem of ventilation of the underground space. One or more holes are made in the floor for ventilation - their number depends on the area of ​​the room. Plastic pipes with a cross section of 50 or 100 millimeters are inserted into them.

By the way, when a bathhouse is built, heated floors in the washing room are designed to be leak-free.

Concrete floors in the garbage room are made quite often, because they have many advantages:

• simple device;
• durability, strength and reliability;
• ease of care.

There are several ways to solve this problem:

• move in special shoes;
• insulate the floor;
• install a floor heating system, which will require considerable financial expenses.

Wooden floor technology

When deciding what to cover the floor of a bathhouse in a washroom, many of their owners choose wooden flooring. The work is carried out in stages (more details: " ").

First they prepare the foundation. To do this, logs are installed using timber from pine or larch. It is advisable to make the flooring from boards, the material of which must match the lag wood. The floor covering (not leaking) is made with a slope, so that water flows into the drain.

The logs are installed along the width of the washing compartment, thereby choosing the smallest distance between opposite walls. If the room is square, they can be installed in any direction.

Installation procedure for logs:

1. To make them stable, a support chair is made in the center of each of them from bricks, wood or using concrete pouring. When using brick or wood, you need to fill a special platform with a height of 20 centimeters with reinforcement. It should be sized so that it protrudes 5 centimeters on each side of the support being created.
2. Foundation holes are dug 40 centimeters deep for each site. The bottom and walls are compacted. Sand is poured into the recess in a 10-centimeter layer and 15 centimeters of crushed stone. Formwork is made from edged boards; its height should exceed the ground level by 5 centimeters. Roofing material is laid along the edges of the pit and prepared concrete mortar and fill the formwork with a layer of 10-15 centimeters. A reinforcing mesh is laid on top. From above it is again filled with concrete to the very top edge of the formwork (in more detail: ""). The sites should dry within a few days.
3. Heated bitumen is applied to the surface of the concrete base and a layer of roofing material is placed.
4. When laying out a brick support, 4 rows are sufficient. Laying is done using standard mortar. Each joist requires support.
5. At the next stage, the underground is prepared, or rather the ground in this place of the structure. When constructing a leaking floor structure, when the composition of the soil allows moisture to pass through, crushed stone is poured into the underground in a 25-centimeter layer and compacted. As a result, water will seep between the flooring elements into the existing gaps, penetrate into the soil through the backfill and be absorbed. Crushed stone in this case will act as a filter.
6. If the soil does not absorb moisture well, you need to install a tray in it to drain the water into the reservoir.
7. When implementing a non-leaking design, you need to decide how to insulate the floor in the bathhouse in the underground washing room. It is best to use expanded clay, maintaining a 15-centimeter gap between the logs and the backfill.
8. A pit 30 centimeters high and 40-50 centimeters wide is dug near the wall. Its walls are compacted and reinforced with clay. A pipe is led out of the pit at a slope, for example, into a sewer. It is necessary to use products with a diameter of at least 11 centimeters to drain liquid as quickly as possible.
9. The installation of the logs begins and they are secured with anchors. In this case, you need to maintain a 30-40 mm distance between the walls and joists. Before the beginning installation work The mortgage crown should be covered with roofing felt. The timber for logs is additionally treated with an antiseptic composition.
10. During the process of attaching the lags, you need to ensure their horizontal position. If necessary, they are trimmed at the point of contact with the support. It is also necessary to control the ratio of the lags to each other using a level.

Then they start laying wooden covering. The construction of the floor in the bathhouse in the washing room according to the leaking option is carried out using unedged boards. Flooring elements should be pre-planed. It is necessary to do as much as possible from the end of the boards flat surface. Better yet, buy edged products.

Lay in the washing room wooden bath floors in a flowing manner in the following sequence:

1. The boards are cut taking into account the parameters of the room, maintaining a ventilation gap between adjacent flooring elements and walls of at least 20 millimeters in size.
2. The floor surface is laid from any wall, placing the floorboards parallel to it. 20 millimeters are retreated from the selected wall and the first board is placed on the joists, nailing it. The length of fasteners is selected in accordance with the thickness of the flooring. For example, 4 cm elements require 8 cm nails.
3. Drive in the fasteners correctly, retreating approximately 15 millimeters from the edge of the board. The nails must be set at an angle of 40 degrees. A minimum of two fasteners should be used to secure one board.
4. When the first plank is fixed, begin installing the second. The recommended gap between adjacent boards should be at least 3 millimeters. All flooring elements are fixed according to the described technology.
5. They begin the final treatment of the floor (more details: " "). Even two layers of drying oil will be enough. It is better to refuse coloring.

When installing a non-leaking floor, use a tongue and groove board. The flooring elements are laid with a groove inside the room. During the adjustment process, tap the end with the groove with a mallet. If you do not adhere to this rule, the tongue and groove may break, since it is 2 times thinner than the fabric of the product. Here in the future a plastic bathhouse may be installed, which is now increasingly found in bathhouses.

A non-leaking floor in a sink in a wooden bathhouse or other type of bathhouse building is equipped as follows:

1. First of all, a rough foundation is made. Wooden blocks measuring 5x5 centimeters are nailed along the bottom edges of the mounted logs. Rough foundation boards are laid on them, for which grade 2-3 wood can be used. They are fixed with nails.
2. Next, waterproofing of the floor in the bathhouse in the washing room is ensured. To do this, lay, for example, roofing material or a thick film on top of the rough base.
3. Install thermal insulation. Optimal choice thermal insulation material can be called expanded clay, which is poured between the lags. A second layer of waterproofing is placed on top of the insulation.
4. At the final stage, they begin to create a finishing flooring from tongue-and-groove boards. Laying is carried out using the same technology as in the case of leaking flooring, but the floor elements are fixed without gaps.
5. It is permissible to refuse to fasten boards with nails. Then they can be removed to be taken out of the washing room for drying. In this case, a special method is used: the floorboards are fixed at the edges with the help of bars, which in turn are attached to the joists with wood grouse screws. When the need arises, they are unscrewed, the bars and boards are removed and dried outside the garbage room.

Ventilation design

The simplest method of solving the problem of ventilating the space between the rough foundation and finishing floor, it is considered to create holes to which pipes are connected that lead water out of the washing room.

There is another way to create ventilation - this is the installation of multi-level floors. Therefore, in each room they make a floor structure of different heights. For example, in the washroom the floor surface will be 3 millimeters lower than in the dressing room.

Option one is the most popular among developers, and the order of work is as follows:

1. In the corners of the washroom at the base of the floor, holes are left for laying ventilation pipes with a diameter of 5-10 centimeters. The material used to make them may vary.
2. Install pipes for ventilation after finishing the walls in the room. Products with a diameter of no more than 5 centimeters can be disguised under the casing. Pipes larger section should be installed in bathhouse buildings that are visited more than twice a week. They are mounted in the corners of the room, attached to the surface of the walls using special clamps.

Concrete floor installation

Floor covering created using concrete mixture, will last more than 25 years, while wooden floors and logs only last 6-10 years. But installing the screed is a labor-intensive process, since you will need to purchase or prepare a solution and pour it, making reinforcement. You will also need to install thermal insulation and perform other measures.

The procedure for pouring concrete floors:

1. First, prepare a pit where water from the washing room will flow. To make it, they make a hole. A pipe with a diameter of 15-20 centimeters is laid in the pit and discharged into a drain, sewage system or other similar place. The dimensions of the pit depend on the area of ​​the room.
2. The soil is leveled and broken bricks are poured onto it in a 15-centimeter layer. Crushed stone is placed on top of it in a layer of 10 centimeters, after which it is compacted. In other backfill options, crushed stone is used first, and then sand or broken brick and sand. All methods are considered correct.
3. For waterproofing, roofing felt or other similar rolled material is laid on top of the backfill in one layer, not forgetting the need to make a 10-centimeter overlap on the walls. To ensure complete sealing, joints and seams are treated with bitumen.
4. Insulation – expanded clay – is poured on top of the waterproofing material. The thickness of this layer depends on the climate in a particular region. Most often, the backfill is made 5-10 centimeters high. A reinforcing mesh is placed on top of the expanded clay, preferably with cells of 15x15 centimeters, assembled from rods with a cross-section of 10 - 12 millimeters. At the intersections they are fastened with flexible knitting wire. The mesh is fixed for reliability cement mortar. Before pouring, guides are fixed to the base.

At the end of the work, the pouring of the sand-cement screed is leveled, distributing the mixture evenly over the surface. For smoothing, use, for example, a segment edged boards. To prepare the solution, it is advisable to use expanded sand (perlite). When using it, it is important to maintain the correct proportions.

The solution is made as follows:

1. Pour 2 buckets of perlite into a container (concrete mixer or trough) and pour 10 liters of water. Mix everything well.
2. Then add ½ part of a 10-liter bucket of expanded sand, stir the mass for 10-15 minutes, pour in 5 liters of water. Kneading is continued until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.
3. Then fill a bucket of perlite and add 2 liters of water. The result should be an almost free-flowing composition. No water should be added. After the mass has been infused for 10 minutes, it will become plastic.

The finished mass is laid and leveled. The layer should be no more than 15 millimeters. It hardens completely after 4-5 days. Ceramic tiles can be placed on top if desired.