How to prune gooseberries after harvest. Proper pruning of gooseberries is the basis of a healthy plant. Timing for pruning gooseberries in autumn
Every year, a large number of new shoots appear on the gooseberry bush, which not only complicate the harvesting process, but also interfere with the penetration of light. And as you know, this crop is light-loving and with insufficient sunlight it will bear fruit worse and its resistance to diseases will significantly decrease. For these reasons, pruning gooseberries after harvest is very important. And if you want to get a lot of tasty berries every year, and also strive to protect the plant from diseases, then you will have to regularly thin out the plantings.
Autumn pruning of gooseberries will significantly simplify the process of harvesting the future harvest and will not take up much of your time.
Pruning rules
When to prune?
The optimal time for pruning gooseberries is autumn. The thing is that in the spring the plant wakes up and active sap flow begins in its shoots. The buds rapidly swell and just as quickly they turn into young green leaves. And if you don't guess with the right time spring pruning, then you can seriously harm the plant. In the fall, after the bushes have given you all their berries, their activity gradually decreases, sap flow slows down, and it is at this time that it is recommended to manipulate excess shoots.
Important! Gooseberries need to be pruned only after leaf fall, but always before the first frost arrives!
Early autumn is considered an inappropriate time for carrying out this work due to the fact that at this time the weather often indulges in warm days - thaws, during which the bush can produce several more young shoots. And these young growth, remaining on the bush, will not have time to become covered with dense bark and will simply freeze in winter. For the same reason, gooseberries are not pruned in the summer.
How to trim?
The scheme for autumn pruning gooseberries is as follows:
- In young one-year-old plants, the shoots are shortened so that the remaining part contains about 4 buds. The speed at which the bush forms will directly depend on how much you prune its branches in the first year of growth. In this case, young branches are cut off by a third, and no more than 4 of the root branches are left, and only those that do not grow in the middle of the bush.
- Until the gooseberries thicken strongly, from time to time it is necessary to remove branches on which fruit ovaries do not form. Such shoots should be cut off almost at soil level and try not to leave stumps.
- In the second year, the branches that formed as a result of growth are again shortened by 1/3, and 8 of the basal ones are left.
- Don't forget to watch the growth of the ends. If during the season the end of the cut shoot has grown no more than 7 cm, then it should be removed without regret to the very base.
On a note! It is very easy to recognize a growing horse - it will have more light color compared to the shade of the shoot at its base!
- In the third year, the plant will begin to bear fruit and there will already be about 15 shoots of different ages. Here the pruning scheme will be similar to the first year - this year’s branches are shortened by a third, and no more than 4 root branches are left.
- At 5-7 years of life, the bush should have at least 18 shoots of different ages. This is the peak of gooseberry fruiting. From now on, every autumn it is necessary to remove all old branches to the very roots.
- Sometimes on bushes you can find basal shoots that have taken root from the tops - this happens in advanced cases, when the cutting has not been carried out for several years and the tops of the branches have hung so low that they could go to the root. Such shoots must be removed without fail.
- The juiciest berries appear on young shoots - this is a well-known fact. Branches are considered old when they reach 10 years of age; the fruits on them become smaller and over time they completely stop producing fruit. And thanks to autumn pruning of gooseberries in the spring, the growth of zero shoots will be activated. To recognize an old branch, you need to pay attention to its bark - on young shoots it will be light, on old shoots it will be darker, and their thickness may be the same.
- On last stage gooseberry pruning - at the end of autumn (just before frost), you can cut off excess branches, as well as those that grow in the middle of the bush and prevent the normal penetration of sunlight.
Upon completion of the work, it is advisable to treat sections with a diameter of more than 8 mm with a healing garden varnish. This way, the plants will return to normal faster after the procedure, and the risk of pathogenic bacteria and fungi entering the wound will disappear.
The main attention of novice gardeners when caring for gooseberries after harvest and in the fall should be directed to timely pruning bush for the winter. This very important agrotechnical technique contributes to the correct formation of the crown, maintaining good growth, increasing the yield and quality of berries. In addition, by correctly pruning “northern grapes”, it is possible to prevent the exposure of internal branches, improve the growth and fruiting of aging shrubs, and lengthen the period of productive age. We will talk about why, when and how to prune, as well as about pruning schemes by year and schemes for rejuvenating an old gooseberry bush in the material below.
Like most berry bushes, the gooseberry grows quite quickly, begins to shade itself, gets sick more often and its fruiting worsens. Therefore, every year, excess branches must be cut off and a bush formed. Already starting from 5-6 years, it is recommended to carry out anti-aging pruning, removing the oldest (5-6 year old) branches.
Thus, autumn pruning of gooseberries is necessary in order to:
- improve income sunlight and air to the branches located inside the bush;
- reduce the risk of diseases and pest damage (powdery mildew);
- increase the volume and quality of the harvest;
- give bush correct form, that is, to simplify the care of gooseberries, because it is much easier to care for and pick berries from cultivated bushes than to carry out these manipulations in hopeless thorny thickets.
Of course, you don’t have to prune gooseberries in the fall, but you are unlikely to be able to collect a generous harvest from an unkempt plant.
However! Incorrect and untimely pruning of gooseberries negatively affects the condition of the bush; it weakens and bears fruit poorly. Therefore, so that pruning gooseberries after harvest and in the fall is not done in vain, you need to know the optimal timing and basic rules for carrying out this important garden manipulation.
When to prune gooseberries in the fall: optimal timing
If you need to do it as quickly as possible, before the bush’s growing season begins, then pruning the gooseberries after fruiting (harvesting) can be divided into two stages. Dried and diseased branches (sanitary pruning) delete immediately after harvest (even in summer), but rejuvenating and shaping pruning it is customary to carry out gooseberries in autumn, and it is desirable after the leaves fall, but before the onset of frost and stable negative temperatures.
Note! After harvesting (in the summer), you cannot carry out shortening pruning, otherwise you will provoke the appearance of new growths that will not have time to become woody before frost and will simply dry out.
Thus, approximate dates gooseberry trimmings in autumn middle lane(Moscow region) - October-November, after harvest - from late July to September.
When is it better to prune - autumn or spring?
Of course, gooseberries can be pruned in the spring, but this must be done early enough, even before the buds open, that is, before the sap begins to flow. If we do this later, the plant will simply waste some of its juices to bloom those buds that we will cut off anyway. Besides, there is a lot to do in the spring without it. Therefore, it is much more practical to prune gooseberries in autumn.
Video: pruning gooseberries in autumn
How to prune gooseberries in the fall: basic rules and recommendations
Advice! It is very convenient to prune an old gooseberry bush using pruning shears with long handles (lopper). In principle, you can use ordinary pruning shears (for trimming young branches), but when using it, you will definitely prick yourself (the bush is prickly), which means you should also wear protective gloves (optimally - welder).
What branches and shoots gooseberries needs to be trimmed after fruiting (harvest) and in autumn:
Important! If there are branches bent down or located horizontally, then they must be shortened so that the outer buds on the remaining part (or side shoots) were directed vertically or under good angle up.
- Everything is completely cut out old branches, which over 5 years and older.
- Weak young growth and thin branches you need to shorten it to the largest bud, which looks not inside the bush, but outside.
Worth knowing! How to distinguish weak shoots from strong ones? Strong shoots have an annual growth of at least 50 cm.
- Strong replacement shoots (zero) - those shoots that grow from the ground need shorten by 1/4 above the kidneys so that they branch better. Rest weak young (zero) shoots, you need to cut them out completely so that they do not shade the crown. There should be 3-4 of them left in total.
How properly trim branches and shoots gooseberries in autumn:
Thus, a 5-year-old bush should have no more than 18 branches, that is, 2-3 branches each year, including 3-4 strong zero shoots.
Video: how to prune gooseberries correctly
Interesting! Some gardeners do not prune gooseberries according to the rules, because this greatly simplifies the process and makes it less labor- and time-consuming. In this case, no special losses or reduction in fruiting are observed at all, but on the contrary, the bush gives excellent harvests. For more information about this autumn pruning of gooseberries, see the video below.
Video: how to prune gooseberries according to the rules
Scheme of formative pruning by year
If you have planted a shrub seedling and want to form a compact and abundantly fruiting bush, then you should adhere to a certain scheme formation of gooseberries, taking into account the age of the bush (pruning by year):
- After planting the seedling– all shoots (if it is not the only one) are shortened, and 3-4 buds should be left above the soil surface.
- after 1 year- all young shoots are pruned by 4-5 buds and 2-3 zero shoots are left. At the same time, it is worth starting to carry out sanitary pruning - removing diseased branches and those branches that do not grow vertically, but are directed towards the center of the bush.
- in 2 years(3-year-old seedling) - all zero shoots are pruned (pinched) by 1/4, as well as growth growing on skeletal branches is shortened by 1/4. This will provoke the growth of young shrubs in width, and not in height. Don't forget about sanitary pruning.
- in 3-4 years– fully corresponds to pruning on a 3-year-old seedling. Sanitary pruning.
- for 5 years and beyond– the rejuvenating pruning of the bush begins. First, sanitary pruning is carried out, then all old shoots are cut out (anti-aging pruning) and formative pruning is completed - all according to the 2-year-old type (3-year-old seedling).
- And don't forget Every year leave 2-3 new zero replacement shoots.
There is also standard method of forming a gooseberry bush.
Pruning by year should be carried out according to the following scheme (by year), presented in the picture below:
Video: standard gooseberry
How to prune an old and neglected bush (anti-aging pruning)
Note! You need to trim old branches without fanaticism. Gooseberries bear fruit on young growth, which is formed on old branches (the most fertile are 3-5 years old), and this is how it differs from currants.
If you inherited it (inherited it or bought it from the previous owner) old site with overly thickened gooseberry bushes that produce a very small harvest, then in order to restore fruiting, you need to carry out proper rejuvenating pruning of the bush. Moreover, it is better to divide it into 2 stages. Naturally, it is better to start with sanitary pruning, and then get rid of all the old (anti-aging pruning) and other unnecessary branches. The bush is cleared, which means that all conditions are created for the active growth of new young shoots.
Scheme for rejuvenation and pruning of an old gooseberry bush:
Video: rejuvenating autumn pruning of gooseberries
Interesting! There is quite radical rejuvenation method old gooseberry - cut it down to zero.
So what needs to be done:
- In order to rejuvenate the gooseberries, you cut off almost the entire bush at soil level. Although it is still better to leave 3-4 of the youngest and strongest branches (with light bark).
- In the first year after severe pruning, a lot of shoots will grow. Some will need to be removed, leaving only 4-5 of the strongest and most well located.
- Next you will need to enter organic fertilizers in the form of mulch. Or scatter minerals over the surface, lightly cover them with a rake and water generously.
By the way! Gooseberries will begin to bear fruit in the third year after such total pruning. Although when good care maybe even in the second year.
What to do before and after autumn pruning of gooseberries
- cleaning the tree trunk circle from old mulch and litter so that pests do not overwinter there;
- loosening;
- watering and fertilizing;
- transplantation (if necessary);
- direct pruning;
- treatment against pests and diseases;
- shelter (new mulching) for the winter.
In order to avoid mistakes when pruning gooseberries in the fall, after harvesting, it is very important, especially for a novice gardener, to adhere to optimal timing, rules and schemes for pruning bushes. In addition, you should not ignore other autumn activities for caring for the berry garden for the winter. Only then will you get the desired effect.
When and how to do it correctly.
Why do gooseberries need pruning?
IN general outline Everyone knows the answer: if you don’t take care of the bushes, they will quickly turn into thickets. Indeed, gooseberries produce many shoots during the season that need to be organized.
There are others causes, which make such manipulation necessary and regular:
- Heavily overgrown bushes become impenetrable to light, which creates all the conditions for the appearance of and.
- When the branches are tightly intertwined, they become smaller.
- The more branches, the less nutrients receives each escape separately. As a result, productivity decreases.
Important! Incisions are made only above the inner kidney (it is located along inside branches).
- Branches that are too long as they grow simply lie down on the ground and take root. After a year or two, such a “giant” stops bearing fruit and becomes dangerous for other crops: they settle on the shoots and leaves.
When to prune
The most effective is considered to be pruning gooseberries in the spring, before the start of the growing season. By forming still “dormant” branches in the first ten days of March, you will ensure normal growth of the gooseberries and thus “lay in” a good harvest.
But there is one difficulty: sap flow begins very early, literally with the first rays of the spring sun. "Catch" right moment and not everyone manages to get out on time, but at the end of March - beginning of April, young leaves are already visible. So, we'll have to wait until the fall. It is undesirable to make live cuts; it harms the plant.
Did you know? In Russia, gooseberries have been cultivated since the 15th century. And in the 19th century foreign varieties replaced local varieties- these were mainly productive British lines.
In the summer, only individual branches are removed, and only if they are severely damaged or infected.
A more popular option remains pruning at the end of the season, which is carried out after the leaves have fallen. This event can be called formative and sanitary: the necessary branches are “exposed” and excess shoots are removed. The horizontal and oldest ones are removed first (they are almost black in color).
Garden tools for work
Needed simple devices: and lopper. They are simple, but there are some nuances here too. Eg, pruners
Available with single- or double-sided sharpening. The first include the simplest, similar to, devices. One of their blades acts as a stop, while the second acts as a cutting edge. Everyone knows how difficult it can be to cut a powerful branch with pruning shears. For such purposes, devices with ratchet mechanism , which regulates the position of the blade and its stroke. Loppers
Important! remove thick (3–5 cm) thorny branches. Essentially, these are the same pruners, but with long handles. They are easier to work with - the handle acts as a lever and transfers a lot of force to the blades, preventing your hands from getting tired.
When buying a pruner, look at the thickness of the blade and supporting lip. If they are made thin, then the tool is only suitable for cutting thin branches, and it simply cannot handle a large shoot.
Note that these two devices do not replace, but complement each other - the pruning shear is ideal for “close combat”, and the lopper completes the work with large branches that are difficult to reach with thorns. There is also brush cutters
, but there is one drawback: they “take” a maximum of 25 mm, and models with one-sided sharpening - even less. In our case, they are only suitable for young bushes.
- The requirements for the tool are as follows:
- high-quality sharpening, there should be no chips on the edge;
- light weight;
- comfortable handle; the material from which it is made does not matter, the main thing is that it should have rubber inserts that prevent your hand from slipping;
- narrow ends that do not damage neighboring branches;
- safety and bright color - such a device is easy to find in the bush.
Pruning gooseberry bushes depending on age
The amount of work and its nature are assessed taking into account the age of the bush. For different periods Only “our own” pruning techniques are suitable, which we will now consider.
In the first year
It all starts before landing. On young seedling shorten all shoots. On strong branches leave 3–4 buds from the soil level, on weaker growths 2 will be enough. It happens that branches are damaged due to negligence. They are already hopeless, they are cut out immediately. But this already weakens the bush somewhat. This pruning is aimed at proper nutrition bush and the formation of future skeletal branches.
Over the course of the season, the roots will grow well and sprout new healthy branches.
Did you know? Autumn “intervention” in the first year after planting is kept to a minimum - they inspect whether the branches are healthy and leave 5–6 annual shoots for wintering.100 g of berries contain only 43 kcal. In addition, there are almost no proteins and fats (0.7 and 0.2 g, respectively)
- an excellent and “healthy” product for weight loss.
In the second year
In the spring, up to 5 zero shoots are left; these should be healthy, conveniently located shoots. Weak branches that do not reach 20 cm are cut off completely. This is necessary - small growths only draw nutrients onto themselves, taking them away from more developed ones. To stimulate branching trim strong branches that grow vertically
Important! (to approximately 30 cm from the ground). The same applies to slightly inclined processes. But horizontal branches are removed without regret - no garters will help here. In autumn, the cuts are treated with garden varnish. Here is one recipe for a cold-resistant composition: 60 ml of alcohol and 0.5 kg of tree resin, heated separately, are mixed, adding 2 tbsp. l. linseed oil
. It is better to keep the mixture in a closed tin.
With this approach, in the fall, 3 “biennials” and the same number of promising annual shoots will be formed on the bush.
For 3–4 years
This is a time of rapid growth. In the 3rd year, all weak and horizontal shoots are removed. If there is poor growth and unimportant branching, the remaining ones are “revived”, shortening by 12–15 cm
In the 4th year after planting, the gooseberries are considered already formed, and pruning becomes more moderate. It comes down to complete removal young shoots, including those launched from the root collar. Closer to winter, the bush takes on a beautiful raised appearance.
5 or more years
“Five-year plan” is the peak of productivity, when there are up to 30 branches of different ages. It is already difficult for the bush to cope with such a load.
Here rejuvenation is important. In spring, the bushes are thinned out, removing all thin branches and leaving only strong root ones. For very “aged” plantings, there is another, more radical method: they leave only the 5 most powerful branches, removing all the rest. With normal care, such bushes will form again.
As you noticed, the work described above is carried out mainly in the spring. Autumn pruning of gooseberries is no less important. Here are its basic rules:
- Lighten the bushes. , receiving light in abundance, gives large and delicious berries. If you hesitate with thinning, you risk introducing powdery mildew onto the bushes.
- Pruning is done from the base. It is from this place that old shoots (more than 5 years old) are cut off. If the bush looks “plucked”, do not be afraid - in the spring it will grow again.
- In old plantings, young shoots are removed. Too many of them will lead to their “sterility” or the appearance of small berries.
- The green tops are cut off. They are unlikely to survive the winter.
Pruning a neglected gooseberry bush
Often they abandon processing of outdated bushes. And there are different situations - for example, during 1-2 years of the owner’s absence, relatives do not pay attention to the gooseberries, and they become completely thickened.
“Reanimation” of such plants comes down to the following work:- In the spring, even before the start of the growing season, all weak, diseased, broken and low-yielding branches are removed. They especially thicken the base of the bush, where the shoots look like brushes. From all this mass we will leave 5-6 strong “annuals”.
- If the rescue began in the fall, they try to remove the oldest branches before frost. They are darker than the others and disappear at the base. This ensures fresh growth for spring.
- Dry branches must be removed.
Non-standard ways to form a bush
We already know how standard (aka “classic”) pruning is carried out. But there are other shaping methods that are worth mentioning.
Trellis
For growing vigorous varieties with big amount shoots are being prepared. Here The sequence of this process is:
- Seedlings are placed according to the following scheme: 1.5 m row spacing and 60–70 cm between bushes.
- Supports (tubes, thick rods or branches) are placed at intervals between the rows. The wire is pulled in 3 rows. The first line is 50 cm from the ground, the rest are 80 cm and 1 m.
- Strong branches (up to 5 pieces) are tied to the finished lines, maintaining an interval of 20–25 cm.
- Annual pruning comes down to removing 1/3 of the tips of last year's shoots (less often, half). Leave 4-5 seasonal shoots, not allowing them to thicken.
- As they age, the bush is rejuvenated.
Did you know? These bushes used to be called simply kryzhas or bersenias. In some regions such names can still be heard.
Standard
In a nutshell, this is a method of turning a berry plant into a tree. The work is also quite labor-intensive, but it’s worth it: the bushes look more elegant, harvesting is more convenient, and maintenance is easier - you don’t have to deal with thorns every time.
The scheme for such cultivation looks like this:
- The most powerful vertical shoot from the bush is selected, which will be the “trunk”.
- Select a standard of the required height. Usually this is 1 m. It is to this level that all the lower branches on the trunk are cut. Some wrap it with a meter-long piece of film or insert a tube that does not allow light to pass through - this will eliminate the need for trimming at the base.
- The plant is immediately tied to a peg.
- In subsequent years, 4–5 strong “seasonal” branches are left, while cutting last year’s branches by half. Sick, horizontal, broken or old (7 years or more) are removed. The same applies to the shoots that appear at the base.
We already know about the advantages of this method, but it also has disadvantages. The first is the age of such a “tree”: they select one shoot, but it ages, and 12 years for a standard shrub is the limit. Let's add here and possible problems during wintering - only frost-resistant ones are suitable. Well, the labor costs are a little higher: you will have to “adjust” the pegs and stands several times a season.
You saw how to work with gooseberries so that they please the eye and produce large yields. Now pruning does not represent any secret for our readers. Good luck at the dacha!
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Experienced gardeners recommend pruning gooseberries immediately after harvest or in the fall. The fact is that this plant wakes up very early in the spring, sap flow begins with the arrival of the first warmth, cutting or completely removing shoots after they have already received their share of nutrients means forcing the bush to waste them. In the spring, it is not always possible to come to the dacha; the period for spring pruning is very short, and it is not always possible to meet the required deadlines.
General rules
Annual pruning of gooseberries is necessary due to the fact that they constantly send out shoots, and they are known to have many thorns, which make picking and caring for berries difficult. It is important to remove part of the shoots so that the berries do not become smaller due to lack of light, moisture and nutrients, a large number of small fruits will not increase the yield of the bush in any way.
In the summer, after picking berries, it is more convenient to prune gooseberries than in the spring; weak, dried out or infertile shoots can be easily identified by the number of berries collected from them, by the foliage and condition of the foliage.
The first pruning is carried out a year after planting, in the fall before the arrival of cold weather, so that the plant has time to recover and the cut areas dry out. At this time, old, weak and small shoots are removed. But full stems are not shortened, otherwise young shoots will appear on them, which will not have time to become lignified and will die from frost.
If the bush is old and there are no fruit-bearing branches on it, you cannot remove everything at the same time; some of the shoots with leaves must be left so that the bush continues to live as usual. Gradually, you can cut off some more branches, then the rest, but only after new shoots grow from the root.
In the spring, you can remove branches damaged over the winter, shorten young shoots so that new shoots appear, and remove shoots that have grown close to the ground.
To form a young bush, 3-4 zero shoots are left; as a result, over time, the bush will consist of 20-25 strong shoots different ages. The aging of gooseberry branches begins at 8-9 years, gradually the old shoots will need to be removed, leaving the young shoots.
Zero shoots are shortened by ¼ part, the shoots that appear on them, directed into the crown, are removed immediately. Thanks to this, the bush will always be well lit, you can care for it and pick berries without scratching your hands with thorns.
Young growths 1 year old should not be removed from fruiting shoots. Only damaged and blackened, disease-affected growths are pruned.
If you provide gooseberries with optimal growing conditions, you can collect 10-20 kg of berries from one bush. This shrub bears fruit for up to 20 years. In order for the harvest to be plentiful, the plant needs proper agricultural technology. One of the techniques that affects yield is pruning bushes. With its help, the bush is also rejuvenated. Let's talk about the features of this procedure, when and how to carry it out correctly.
Over the summer, the bush usually grows and in the fall it requires pruning to rid the crown of branches that thicken it. Gooseberries need regular pruning because they are a light-loving crop. On dense bushes, the berries will be small, and their collection will be problematic due to the interweaving of thorny shoots.
During the procedure, the bush is given the desired shape, and at the same time all diseased, weak or damaged shoots are removed. You also need to cut the lower branches touching the ground. If this is not done, they will take root and subsequently freeze out in winter.
On a note! Anti-aging pruning is necessary for the plant already from 5-6 years of age.
In general, the procedure contributes to:
- branches located inside the crown are freely supplied Sun rays and air;
- the risk of disease and pests is reduced;
- the quality of the harvest improves and its volume increases significantly;
- the bush becomes cultivated, making it easier to care for.
If you do not prune the bushes in autumn, the harvest will noticeably decrease next season.
Important! Do not forget that when planting, gooseberry shoots are shortened, leaving 4 buds on strong shoots and 2 on weak branches.
Experts are unanimous in their opinion that best time Autumn is the time to prune gooseberries. It is impossible to carry out simultaneous pruning in autumn and spring time. The fact is that the plant needs strength to recover. If you weaken it by cutting it twice, it will experience severe stress and may not survive the coming winter.
If you did not have time to trim the gooseberries in the fall, then in the spring this needs to be done as quickly as possible, before sap flow begins and the buds open. Otherwise, the plant will waste its energy on planting new shoots, which will be cut off anyway. Gooseberries wake up from hibernation earlier than other crops.
An additional advantage of autumn pruning is that the gardener has free time; he can slowly and efficiently trim all unnecessary branches. In the spring, there is already enough trouble preparing the beds on the site. You need to prepare equipment, buy seeds and plant seedlings.
The estimated time for pruning is mid-October. The bush is trimmed after it has dropped all its leaves. Choosing exact time, you need to take into account the climatic features of your region, weather conditions, temperature indicators.
Pruning should be completed a month before the onset of sustained frost. In the time remaining before the cold weather, the bush will come to its senses. By the time of wintering, all wounds on the gooseberry should heal, this will take some time. The plant also needs to be additionally prepared for winter.
In the Moscow region, Central zone
The middle zone is characterized by a moderate continental climate with pronounced seasonality. If autumn is not late, the first snow may fall here already in the second ten days of October, and winter weather finally sets in by the end of the first ten days of November.
It is recommended to prune gooseberries in this climate zone closer to October 15th. By this time, the movement of sap in the branches has already stopped, which means that the formation of new shoots will not begin.
The length of the Urals is quite large, which is why the difference in weather conditions may be significant. If nothing predicts a sharp cold snap, you can prune gooseberries in the southern regions on October 10, and in the middle Urals on October 1. Often the weather here is the same as in central Russia, but winter comes a little earlier.
Due to the cold climate of Siberia, an exception is made for pruning gooseberries and is carried out in the spring. The winters here are too long and harsh. Haircuts begin to be used from the second year of life, carrying out in early spring. Be sure to cut off diseased, damaged branches that have frozen over the winter, fattening branches and old shoots. In winter, bushes should be under cover.
In the Leningrad region
In the Northwestern region, which includes Leningrad region, a humid, cool climate prevails. Here gooseberries are called “northern grapes” and are readily grown. An unpleasant feature of Leningrad winters are recurrent thaws caused by warm atmospheric fronts.
Once the snow melts and frost hits, even the roots can be damaged. During cold winters, young immature shoots often freeze, so immature growth is cut out at the end of the first ten days of October, and the soil under the bush is mulched.
Gooseberry pruning scheme For beginners, pruning shrubs is always somewhat difficult, as it requires knowledge and experience. To prevent gooseberry bushes from turning into thickets, they require regular pruning, taking into account the age and condition of the plant.
Since it is undesirable to make cuts on living things, and it is not always possible to get to the site in early spring, experts recommend autumn pruning. To work you will need pruners and loppers.
Old bush
A bush that is 5 or more years old is considered middle-aged. At this age, there are more than 30 shoots of different ages on the plant; it is difficult for the roots to provide nutrition to such an abundant vegetative mass and this negatively affects the volume of the harvest. That is why the bush needs rejuvenation. During pruning, only strong basal branches are left, and all young shoots are cut off.
On bushes that are too old, no more than 5 powerful branches should be left, and all the rest should be removed. In the spring, the gooseberry will produce many young shoots and grow its crown again. Radical pruning stimulates the growth of zero shoots from the base of the bush, and the plant gradually completely rejuvenates.
Subsequently, all shoots that have stopped bearing fruit are removed from the bush. As a rule, these are branches older than 7 years, distinguished by dark-colored bark. By the age of eight, the bush should have up to 8 main branches and up to 24 shoots of different ages. Specimens that have reached 20 years of age are not rejuvenated, but replaced with new plants.
On a note! Using the branches remaining after pruning, you can propagate the crop by cuttings.
Features of pruning a young bush
Peak fruiting of gooseberries occurs from the age of five to ten years. It is important to form the correct crown in advance at this time. This should happen like this:
- At the age of one year, all weak and broken branches are cut out from the seedling, and the tops at the level of 2-3 buds are removed from strong shoots.
- When the bush is 2 years old, 3-4 of the strongest branches are left on it, shortening them by 1/3, everything else is cut off close to the ground. The crown will be formed from the remaining trunks in the future.
- On 3-year-old and 4-year-old bushes, no more than 4 main trunks are also left. Zero shoots that grow close to the ground are completely removed, and all remaining branches are cut by a third.
- For a 5-year-old bush, formative pruning is no longer relevant. At this age, the crown takes on a finished appearance. The plant only needs sanitary pruning and control over the number of shoots so that the crown does not thicken.
Important! Autumn pruning often carried out in two stages. The first stage takes place immediately after harvesting, during which diseased and withered branches are cut out. Shortening pruning should be carried out only at the second stage, in late autumn, after the end of sap flow.
As gardeners gain experience, they begin to grow gooseberries on a trunk or trellis method; in these cases, completely different formative pruning is used. To form a trunk, a single strong shoot is left, which will serve as a trunk. And when growing on trellises, the emphasis is on horizontal growth of shoots, leaving several strong branches.
Standard method gooseberry trimmings Removing part of the branches always causes stress for the plant, so it is important to provide the bush with necessary care for the purpose of its speedy restoration. First you need to treat all thick sections with garden varnish. Some people use a mixture of crushed coal and urea in a ratio of 1:7 for these purposes.
After this, the gooseberries are fed with organic-mineral industrial fertilizer, or a fertilizer made from rotted manure with the addition of superphosphate and potassium sulfate is used. Before wintering, the bushes need moisture-recharging watering. Under each plant, 20 liters of water are added in small portions, so that the moisture is absorbed into the ground and does not spread around.
If the gooseberries show symptoms of disease or pest damage, treat Bordeaux mixture And industrial insecticides. Mulch closer to winter trunk circle peat or rotted leaves. It is especially important to insulate young plants.
Pruning gooseberries in autumn: video
In cultivation garden plants there are no small things. Try to prune gooseberries according to all the rules and taking into account the characteristics of the variety. Be sure to follow the timing of this event and provide the plant with further care. Only if all these conditions are met can you count on a generous return from the harvest.
