How to make a roof with your own hands. The device of a roof and its consecutive erection. Hydro, heat and vapor barrier - current trends in roof construction
Roof construction is a job that belongs to the category of complex construction processes. It is impossible to carry it out on your own, without owning the preparatory base. However, many people strive to master this business. And especially those who have personal suburban areas, with houses installed on them.
Thought to repair new roof, having completely disassembled the previous one and use on their own, often comes to the mind of the owners of country houses.
But, if dismantling, relatively, does not pose a particular problem, then subsequent work, from the construction of the frame to the laying of the upper waterproofing layer, can raise many questions.
Difficulties arise at the stage of choosing the shape of the structure configuration. If an existing coating or device is to be repaired small area the roofs of the adjacent part of the house, the upcoming work does not cause much concern that something will go wrong.
Otherwise, when it comes to full complex work, covering the entire upper area of \u200b\u200bthe structure, the question of how to properly make the roof of a house with your own hands immediately reveals a number of problems, most of which are associated with a lack of experience in such a matter.
Fears quickly fade into the background when the figures for the costs of professional craftsmen, their services and the materials provided, which specialized firms sometimes provide strictly on their own, ignoring the initiatives of customers to do it personally, appear before your eyes. In this case, the desire to gain relevant experience overpowers thoughts about the need to invite a professional team.
Even more interest awakens when viewing photos of the roofs of the house. With your own hands you can do any work, and color visual aids, as well as detailed video tutorials confirm this. The main thing is to know where to start.
The main types of roofs
Begin construction by determining the type of roof. Upper structures country house have several distinct forms. The simplest type - a shed coating is rarely chosen, only during the construction of extensions.
For the formation beautiful view preference is given to the following forms:
Gable. Its advantage is not big weight, the appearance as a result of a large attic space, which can be equipped as an attic. This design is simple, harmonious and most attractive to many.
Four-slope. This design is less popular because its construction contains many difficulties. Without serious skills, it is difficult to build such a roof. If there is an idea to build just such a structure, there should be detailed instructions: how to make a roof.
The advantages of this roofing type are aesthetics, the ability to arrange a wide attic, four-sided heating. The disadvantages include increased weight and complexity of work.
Combined. Such a roof looks very original. Like the previous type, it has its own difficulties in construction.
But for those who want to get a beautiful multi-level roof, all difficulties can be overcome. The result is a roof that harmoniously looks against the background of any protruding section of the house.
Resolving design issues
You can choose a design option without resorting to the help of specialists. But the project can only be done by a professional designer. Making roof drawings with your own hands is an unreasonable idea.
IN this case do not regret the means and it is best to do individual order to a design firm. There, on the basis of clarification of all necessary requests, including: configuration, volume, individual parameters, components and additional details, detailed drawings of the roof will be drawn up.
Main works
The stages of building the roof of a house provide for its construction using a certain technology. By dividing the construction into the main components of the structure, the following is obtained:
- fastening of the foundation part - Mauerlat. It bears the pressure of the main loads. The material is wooden beams section 15x15 cm.
- frame device. This means attaching rafters to the Mauerlat. The optimal size of the beams is taken with a section of 7x15 cm.
- work to strengthen the roof. To reduce the impact of the spacer load on the Mauerlat and gain high roof strength, the rafter legs are fastened with additional beams.
- device wooden crate. It is necessary to create a continuous roof overlap.
The main building materials will be wooden planks and bruce. Fastening is carried out with nails.
When wooden frame will be completely ready, proceed to further work. Their list includes installation of insulation, vapor barrier, device waterproofing layers and topcoating. In this capacity, tiles or a profile sheet are often used.
In addition to the above works, it is imperative to remember about ventilation, installation of cornices, internal valleys, pipes, trays for draining water. In addition, drips and underlayment should be installed along the edges of the roof to protect against moisture penetration.
Do-it-yourself photo of the roof of the house
Installation of a gable roof includes enclosing elements. Bearing elements - truss system, roof foundation (Mauerlat). A gable roof includes 2 roof surfaces at a certain angle, if we refer to SNiP, then the angle must be at least 6 °.
Mounting a shed roof is the easiest option. It is used for commercial buildings and residential buildings. Among the advantages are low material consumption and quick installation, minimal experience and knowledge.
The choice of roof angle is influenced by the material used and the regional climate. If the material is rolled or profiled flooring - 5-8 °. When using metal tiles or seam coating - 18-35 °.
It is worth starting the installation of a mansard roof with the choice of future material, which will affect the type of truss system used.
The greatest weight of ceramic tiles. Pay attention to additional fastening structures.
In the process of installing roofing material on hand, you must have a drawing of the roof itself. All important rafter junctions should be marked there. Consider the stages of mounting the roof with your own hands.
Rafter installation
Rafters are divided into several types:
Inclined - supports of different heights are used, beams are mounted on them at an angle. When the roof is shed, external walls are used for installation. If gable system- internal and external walls. It is not necessary to fasten the rafter legs, it is enough just to place them on the same plane.
Hanging - the elements form a truss truss, for the fastening of which external walls are used. This design implies the emphasis of the legs of the rafters on each other.
Installation of the structure and assembly is carried out on the ground or directly on the structure itself. If on the ground, then you will need to order a truck crane.
Houses made of timber and logs do not require mandatory strengthening of the walls for the subsequent installation of the roof. For brickwork, a reinforced belt will be required.
In the process of casting, metal studs made of galvanized steel are installed in the reinforced belt. They are subsequently used for the installation of a Mauerlat - a bar that acts as the foundation of a future roof.
The protrusion of the studs is 2-3 centimeters in height, this length is enough to install nuts and bolts. Be sure to lay a waterproofing layer of roofing felt over the reinforced belt. Roofing material is rolled up in 2 layers. A special antiseptic prevents the wood from rotting.
The section of the rafters is influenced by several factors: the weight of the roofing material, the load from snow, the pitch of the rafters, the size of the span and the angle of installation (degree of the roof slope).
IN middle lane RF are commonly used gable roofs in the private construction sector. The most modern material is metal tile. The pitch of the rafters is 120 cm and at 30 degrees.
crate
A crate is nailed to the top of the rafters. The selected roof covering material will affect the battens, which can be pitched or solid.
Solid is used for soft tiles, thin sheet material or plywood is used as a substrate. With a step, the crate is used for ondulin, profiled sheet and metal tiles. The width of the boards will be 20-25 cm, the thickness is 2-2.5 cm. Having installed the crate, then a solid flooring from the board is mounted. The width of the cover is 60-80 cm.
Waterproofing, thermal insulation, vapor barrier
The finished roof is like a sandwich. At self-assembly roofing material, do not forget about waterproofing, thermal insulation and vapor barrier. The vapor barrier helps prevent moisture from appearing on the thermal insulation layer due to condensation from inside premises. The vapor barrier material is mounted in a layer of insulation and finishing.
The most common material is membrane film. The roof frame is covered with a film with an overlap on the ridge of 10-15 cm. A construction stapler is used for fastening. Where there is an adjunction of the vapor barrier coating to the surface of the wall, a special adhesive tape is used.
Installation of roofing material
When the laying of all layers approaches its final stage, care should be taken to install the roofing material itself as soon as possible in order to protect the wooden structures from rain and snow.
Roof installation photo
I greet you dear colleagues of my Internet project! described in detail in this article. The roof or covering of a building is made to protect against precipitation, rain and melt water, in addition to thermal insulation. The roofing of the premises is designed to be waterproof, moisture resistant, resistant to aggressive environments, solar radiation, and frost. A roof over your head must be economical, durable and light. we are talking about the roof of the house with their own hands - step by step video, where, among other things, it is told how to hold the loads of your weight, wind, snow.
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How to make a roof at home with your own hands
Do-it-yourself construction of a roof truss system begins with the installation of a reinforced concrete belt along the top stone walls Houses. For houses built from logs or timber, it is not necessary to do it. The reinforced belt is designed to strengthen the top of the masonry and level the horizontal mark of all the walls of the house. 
types of truss systems When pouring concrete, galvanized studs are inserted into the reinforcing cage of the belt, which will serve as fastening of the Mauerlat to the base of the armored belt. The studs should be of such length that they protrude from the Mauerlat by 2-3 cm. The Mauerlat is made from a bar with a section of 150x150 mm or 20x20mm, and serves as the basis for the truss system itself. The cross-sectional size of the Mauerlat depends on the power of the truss system, weight roofing. Naturally, the more load the Mauerlat experiences, the stronger it should be. 
fastening the Mauerlat When building a roof with your own hands, one should not forget about laying waterproofing on the armored belt before laying the Mauerlat on it. In this capacity, roofing material in two layers is quite suitable. Mauerlat must be tightened on the studs with galvanized nuts to eliminate the risk of corrosion. It is necessary to use the building level so as not to disturb the horizontal laying of the Mauerlat. Before making a roof with your own hands, all wooden elements of the truss system must be treated with an antiseptic to prevent wood rotting. Next, the rafter legs are installed. As rafters, a board with a section of 150x50 mm or timber is used. In addition, you will need various bars, boards of different sections for the installation of spacers, crossbars, struts, screeds and others. connecting elements. Depending on the type of roof chosen, rafters are installed, layered or hanging. For hip roofs apply diagonal rafters and sprigs are short rafter legs that support the diagonal rafters on both sides and rely on the Mauerlat. When the roof of a house is erected with your own hands, an assistant is needed, because it is impossible to do such work alone. 
rafter features hip roof With any rafter system, the lower end of the rafter rests on the Mauerlat, and sometimes on the ridge with the upper end, and in some cases on the opposite rafter. Thus, roof trusses are formed, which are connected by a ridge beam or two boards at an angle from opposite sides and forming a ridge. The rafter legs are strengthened by installing spacers and struts, braces and stretch marks, crossbars, which generally give the rafter structure the necessary rigidity and strength. The step of the rafter legs when assembling the roof with your own hands is calculated based on the loads expected on them. During the construction of a gable roof, the truss system looks like triangles placed in a row, connected at the top with a longitudinal bar. With hip roofs, the ridge at the ends, as it were, bifurcates and forms two diagonal (diagonal) rafters on each side. As a result, four main rafter legs are obtained, which carry the entire load from the lathing, roofing, layers of vapor and waterproofing and insulation. Therefore, the construction of such a structure as a hip roof must be taken seriously when you need to make the roof of the house yourself. 
fastening of truss elements When constructing a gable roof, the first two structures of the truss system, in the form of triangles, are assembled on the ground and then raised to the roof. They are temporarily strengthened with spacers and immediately connected with a ridge beam or boards on both sides. After that, the rest of the rafter legs are mounted. For the convenience of workers, even before the construction of the truss system, floor beams are laid on the Mauerlat, on which temporary flooring is laid. The truss system is fastened, in addition to tie-ins and cuts, with iron brackets, metal corners, screws and nails. To create a rigid frame of the truss system, various struts, crossbars, ties, stops are used. If you want to lengthen the rafter legs, this is done by splicing two rafter boards with installation at the junction of shorties on both sides with a length of at least 50 cm. ^
Laying the crate
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How to make a roof at home with your own hands
After almost all the work on the construction of the house is completed, the next step is always the installation of the roof. It is necessary to start arranging the roof after the walls are fully erected on a solid and reliable foundation. The roof can be considered the most expensive stage in construction, so many, trying to save money, undertake its installation on their own. However, in order to know how to make the roof of a house with your own hands, you need to understand the types of roofing and its design. The roof is an important part of any building, as it performs several functions at the same time: protecting the house from rain and moisture, aesthetic function and thermal insulation. That is why it is important to responsibly approach the independent arrangement of the roof and think over its device in advance. 
Roof types
Before proceeding with the preparation of materials, tools and drawings for the construction of the roof, it is necessary to determine the type of roof being erected. The roof of the house with your own hands can be of the following form:
Before choosing to certain type roofs, it is necessary to observe which roof is most common. Very often, broken mansard roofs are erected even on small houses, because it allows you to use the attic space as a living room. However, it differs simple installation and looks quite aesthetically pleasing. An important point: the level of complexity of the roof structure and the presence of additional elements directly depends on how large the house is in area, and what kind of layout it has. Moreover, the more complex the roof structure, the more difficult it is to equip truss system. 
Preparatory stage
In addition to choosing the type of roof, it is necessary to think in advance what material will be used to cover the roof, since the design of the truss system will depend on this. This is due to the fact that any coating will exert loads, in the form of pressure on the rafters. Therefore, an important point is to think over what elements will be used for fastening and how to further strengthen the truss system. It is best to start building a roof with your own hands only if there is a correctly executed drawing that can become the basis for the work. For greater convenience of work, the drawing may contain separately rendered joints in the rafters, which contribute to the strengthening of all elements of the system. Ceramic tiles have the largest weight, so if this material is used to cover the roof, you should take care in advance that the walls, as well as the foundation, are ready for heavy loads. Below is a do-it-yourself roof drawings and photos that may be needed in the work.
An important point: in order to make a truss system, you need a coniferous tree with a moisture content of twenty percent, and on which there are no blue and knots. In addition, the following will also be required:
Construction of the truss system
The installation of rafters during the construction of the roof should begin with the arrangement of a reinforced concrete belt on top of the walls. If timber was used to build a house, then this procedure should not be done. The reinforced concrete belt is necessary in order to strengthen the masonry of the walls and make the horizontal mark of the walls more even and without defects. In the process of pouring concrete, special studs should be inserted into the belt frame, necessary to secure the Mauerlat. Reinforced studs should be of such a length that they can be seen from the Mauerlat by about three centimeters. The Mauerlat itself should be made from a bar that has a section of 20 by 20 millimeters or 150 by 150 millimeters. Mauerlat is the basis for the construction of the truss system. At self construction roofing, it is important to remember about waterproofing, which must be laid on a reinforced belt. To do this, you can lay roofing material in several layers. After that, a Mauerlat is already laid on top, which is fastened to the studs with nuts (galvanized nuts must be taken, as this will help avoid metal corrosion). When laying the Mauerlat, in order to perform strictly horizontally, you should use a level. An important point: before starting the construction of the truss system, all wooden parts must be treated with an antiseptic, as this will help make the structure as durable as possible. 
Next, you need to install the rafter legs. For this, a beam with a cross section of 150 by 150 millimeters is suitable. You will also need boards of different sizes for arranging screeds, spacers or struts. Rafters can be made of layered or hanging type, depending on the type of roof.
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We build the roof of the house with our own hands step by step - the device of the crate
After all the external rafters have been installed, they should be nailed to the crate. To create a crate, you will need boards with a thickness of two centimeters. Depending on the choice of roof covering, the lathing can be made with gaps or solid. Before proceeding with the arrangement of the crate, it is necessary to make waterproofing along the rafters. In the event that in the future it is planned to make a room out of the attic, it is best to pre-insulate the roof. To insulate the roof with your own hands, you should lay the heat-insulating material between the rafters. Suitable for this mineral wool or foam. If you do not carry out insulation immediately, even at the stage of construction of the roof, then later you will have to do it from the inside of the roof, which is rather inconvenient.
To make it cozy and warm room on the attic floor, insulation should be laid in 2 layers. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that each layer is not less than fifty millimeters thick. Apart from thermal insulation properties, the insulation also acts as a soundproofing material. After laying the insulation, you need to lay a layer of vapor barrier. This is necessary in order to thermal insulation material there was no condensation. With self-construction of the roof, in order for it to become durable and reliable, it is necessary to follow all the recommendations and observe the phased implementation of all work on creating a roofing pie. And the final step in the construction of the roof is the overlap with roofing material. The most popular such material is slate, which has no high cost and is durable and reliable. In addition, there are such expensive materials for the roof as ondulin or euroslate. It all depends on financial capabilities and personal tastes.
Source: remontidei.ru
Do-it-yourself roof roofing
Starting to build a roof roof with your own hands, you must first decide: what type of roof will be used, whether an attic is needed, whether there will be an attic. There are several basic types of roof structures, each of which is complicated if necessary or at will. 
Structurally, the roof is divided into flat and mansard roofs. flat roofs, as a rule, non-attic, with a slight design bias. Roof options attic type- the most common roof structures, the installation of which uses special internal supports - rafters.
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Such roofs consist of elements called slopes. Mansard roofs are pitched and flat. Most often, a gable roof is used to install the roof of a house with one's own hands (this type is also called a gable roof). For individual buildings with a polygonal complex shape of the plan, multi-gable roofs are used. Installation of a multi-gable roof of the roof of a house requires good professional training and high qualifications during the work. There are other, less common types of pitched roofs:
- lean-to;
- tent;
- hip;
- half hip.
It would be wiser to correctly assess your capabilities before starting the roof installation. The complex structure of the roof will require a complex truss system for it and special practical skills.
roof roofing materials
How to make a roof at home with your own hands
How to make a roof at home with your own hands? This article was written to answer this question. Everyone has known everything about insulation materials and roofing for a long time, for this reason, in this article we will focus on how to properly make a frame for a roof. 
Mauerlat for gable roof
Mauerlat is the basis that takes on the bulk of the structural loads. If to speak plain language, then the Mauerlat is the base on top of which the roof will be built. For the arrangement of the base, beams are used, with a cross section equal to 150 by 150 mm. They are installed in a parallel plane with the roof ridge. 
The fastening of the Mauerlat beams must be extremely reliable, this is done so that the roof is not afraid of wind and weather disasters. IN ideal, these actions are carried out even when the walls are being built. To do this, you need to lay the top four rows of bricks with thick wire. This wire is called wire rod, and its location should be with a meter gap. The middle of the wire should be in a brick wall, and its ends, which hang freely, should be of such a length that it is enough for the subsequent strapping of the timber. In the event that the house project does not provide for plastering, then the installation of the outer edge of the wire must be carried out inside the solution, so it will not be noticeable. An important point is that the Mauerlat must recede from the edge of the wall by at least 100 mm. To protect the beams from decay, only a few layers are placed under them.
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Strengthening the roof frame
When building a roof, a prerequisite is the arrangement of a reliable frame.
A frame is a truss system attached to a Mauerlat. Be sure to take into account that if the length of the beams is more than 4.5 m, then you will additionally have to mount runs. 
The optimal section of the beams used to build the roof frame in a brick house is 70 by 150 mm. The fastening of the rafters on the Mauerlat is carried out using a special cutout, which is fixed with twenty-centimeter nails. Nailing should be done according to this principle:
- The first nail is nailed through the rafter to the Mauerlat in a diagonal plane;
- The second nail is driven in exactly the same way, only from the reverse side;
- The third nail is driven at an angle of 90° from above.
This method of fastening the truss system does not allow it to move from side to side.
The upper ends of the rafters are fastened with an overlap, it is on the other. One beam, with its end should overlap the parallel beam. In the upper part, they are also fastened with nails, although bolts can also be used for this. 
On this, the work on arranging the frame can be considered completed, it remains only to lay the roofing pie.
How to make a roof at home with your own hands video tutorial
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How to build a roof at home: video + instruction
The fundamental structures of the house will be exposed to the destructive effects of external factors without a solid, reliable roof. In order to save money, homeowners often do all the roofing work themselves. It should be borne in mind that this stage of construction is as important as laying the foundation or erecting walls. Moreover, before starting work, it is necessary to determine what type of flooring is suitable for a house under construction? Table of contents:
Difficulties in choosing a roof structure: information for reflection
Usually on initial stage design, several types of "roofing" attract attention, differing in the complexity of the work, the amount and type of material. The erected roof of the house with your own hands should not retain precipitation on the surface, withstand gusts of wind, please your appearance. 
If we briefly characterize the variety of designs available for independent execution, we get the following accents:
- The method of erecting a frame with one gentle slope is the most economical and simple to perform.
- A roof with two slopes, traditionally most in demand among owners of houses, cottages, it is enough to correctly position and strengthen two simple slopes between them. The work is done quickly and easily.
- The four-slope design will look elegant, it can vary from tent to hip, half-hip. It is more complex, but it also gives maximum opportunities for creating a unique exterior of the building.
- The hip version is a frame that is flat on 4 sides, two opposite surfaces of which make up regular triangles, and the other two are trapezoids.
- The half-hip variety is a kind of constructive symbiosis, combining the features of a gable and hip design, characterized by broken roof lines and complex execution. Strict proportions of four triangular slopes under one peak and harmonious execution distinguish the roofing "tent" in the form of a pyramid.
- The broken line looks original attic construction with characteristic kinks in the middle of the slopes or bevels on the vertical sides. As a rule, compatriots want to get additional square meters living space, using the attic for these purposes.
Attention! Before you make the roof of the house, it should be noted that the increase in the load on the ceiling and the increase in the area of \u200b\u200bthe house is directly proportional to the increase in additional fasteners. A large number of slopes leads to an increase in labor costs for its construction. A novice builder should not take on the construction of complex structures, because. it requires serious calculations and complex scheme rafters.
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The dependence of the operational characteristics of the roof on the type of roof
View of the future decorative coating affects the truss system, the choice of section wooden elements. For example, when tiling ceramics, the strongest frame should be made, because. piece material has a much greater weight than even slate or metal sheet. The complexity of the roof structure, its area, the angle of inclination and the type of coating affect the consumption of materials. In turn, the slope is performed based on the area of the roof and the type of roofing material: metal, ceramic, bituminous tiles; slate; soft roll materials, metal sheets, etc. 
Multi-layered roofing "robe"
Having decided on the choice of the shape of the roof, a drawing is made, where the main elements are indicated: the truss system, supports, nodal connections, thermal insulation, waterproofing, roofing. In the simplest case (a flat version of the roof), the layering of the cake is as follows:
- ceiling covering;
- vapor barrier layer;
- insulation;
- strengthening screed;
- waterproofing layer.
With a pitched roof, the main element is the rafter frame, which holds the entire load and consists of:
- Mauerlat;
- rafters;
- crates;
- crossbars;
- puffs.
- waterproofing;
- insulation;
- vapor barrier coating;
- counterlattice;
- roof.
To hold the weight, coniferous tree material of a certain moisture content (20%) is used, without flaws in the form of knots. For work, you will still need fasteners (staples, screws, nails, self-tapping screws), essential tool, snap. 
The order should not be violated: the technology of erecting a pitched roof
Stage # 1 Formation of a reinforced base for the rafters A layer of reinforced concrete is formed along the upper crown of the masonry of the walls of the house, increasing the bearing capacity of the structures and leveling them in horizontal position. It is not necessary to reinforce the walls if they are made of logs or timber. Studs are attached to the liquid solution of the belt, which are fasteners to the base of the reinforcing screed for the Mauerlat, a bar with a section of 150x150. In this case, the ends of the studs should protrude 30 mm from the support beam - the skeleton for the truss frame. Cross section supporting structure the more, the more powerful the rafter design and the weight of the roof.
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The reinforced edging before laying the Mauerlat must be waterproofed, for example, with roofing material. At the same time, in order to reduce the risk of decay, the minimum distance of the support beam from the wall must be maintained at least 10 cm. The support log is fixed on the protruding studs with nuts with a non-corrosive coating. Mauerlat beams are laid strictly parallel to the ridge. Attention! All stages of roof construction work are carried out with constant control maintaining horizontality. For this, the building level is used. Stage # 2 Selection of wooden elements The stage of installation of compass-like structures is preceded by a preliminary wooden blank (150x50), you can use timber, small fragments of boards of different sizes and sections, which will be used as crossbars, struts, ties, struts, strengthening the rafter legs and increasing strength the whole structure. 
The frame, which bears the main load, is a rafter fastened to the Mauerlat. If the hip option is chosen, then shortened “legs” are also needed that support the diagonal rafter laying on both sides (spiders) standing on the Mauerlat. They should be 5x15 cm in section and fasten the rafter supports. Stage # 3 Mounting the truss frame
- In any case, when decorating the frame with rafters, one of their ends is placed in a special recess in emphasis on the Mauerlat, and the other rests on the ridge or lies on the opposite supporting element. In the lower part, the rafters are additionally nailed to the Mauerlat with nails with a working rod length of 20 cm. Wooden supports are also fixed between themselves with bolts. To do this, nests of the desired diameter are drilled in the tree.
Important! Before building a roof with two slopes, pine or larch wood is pre-treated with refractory antiseptic compounds. The first two triangular frames are assembled near the house, on the ground, in finished form they rise to the Mauerlat, where they are immediately temporarily fastened with spacers and joined with the ridge structure. Only after that the rest of the rafters are installed. 
- Between themselves, the "legs" are located at a certain distance, based on the load. The simplest gable roof scheme is nothing more than triangles lined up in a row, the tops of which are mounted on a longitudinal beam.
- The step between the elements of the frame should be such as to support the weight of the crate, finish coating, the load from vapor and waterproofing, and insulation.
- The angle of inclination is important detail during construction. For each region, it is selected specifically. In cold conditions with an abundance of precipitation, the best option is 40-45 °. In regions with windy weather, a slope of 20° should be adhered to. Hot dry areas allow the use of an angle with the lowest value of 3°.
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Stage # 4 Sheathing Stuffing of the sheathing is done after all the rafters have been installed. It maintains the necessary gap between the heat insulator and the waterproof coating that removes the resulting condensate. Fits on it waterproofing material, which prevents the penetration of moisture into the room and passes vaporous emissions from a warm room into the insulation. The crate is mounted on the rafters to hold the roof. Suitable for this big size solid boards (about 2 m) 25 cm thick. Based on the type of coating, they stuff a solid (for tiles, roll coating) or trellised crate (slate, metal sheet), fastened perpendicular to the rafters. The joints between the boards, not exceeding a gap of 5 mm in size, must be fixed on supports. Stage # 5 Heat, steam, waterproofing 
- You can insulate the roof with mineral wool, carefully laying it in the space between the rafters. Insulating materials "extinguish" noise.
- Stretches over the top of the mineral wool vapor barrier membrane(reinforced film), which prevents the insulation from getting wet. It should cover the frame with some margin, designed to change the parameters in the event of thermal expansion. Be sure to ensure that the film is firmly in contact with outer walls, pipes. If it is necessary to glue the canvases together, this must be done carefully, obtaining a holistic connection.
- The maintenance of a special microclimate is also facilitated by ventilation ducts. To do this, small gaps should be left in the crate: 2 or even 3 channels on each side.
Stage # 6 Installation of roofing Finishing stage- correctly lay the roofing elements directly on the crate so that they withstand the loads and create an airtight coating. The laying direction is "right to left" and "bottom up". The easiest way (and cheaper), which does not affect reliability at all, is to use slate. He is unpretentious in installation. This is the option that is suitable when arranging the roof for the first time with your own hands. Don't forget about drainage system. It must be activated along the entire perimeter of the roof, and effectively remove precipitation in the required direction and in the required amount. The arrangement of the roof does not take a critically long time, provided that it is carefully performed preparatory stage, the technology of work performance is observed. No need to rush to buy cheap materials. And you should also carefully study theoretical material, watch a video on how to properly build a roof. At a sufficient level, master the “basics” of working with metalwork and woodworking tools.
Source: ofacade.ru
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Self-construction of the roof of a private house
The sequence of stages of the construction of the roof is as follows:
In order for the roof to be securely fixed, care must be taken to securely connect it to the wall of the building. If erected wooden house, then the Mauerlat is not required - the upper crown of a bar or log acts as this element. In this case, fastening to the wall is carried out using special "floating" fasteners. They are sold ready-made, most often they are called sleds. This version of the roof device allows the entire structure to slightly shift when the walls shrink without damage and deformation. 
"Sliding" fastening in a wooden house A similar situation arises with a frame house. In this case, the upper wall trim will be the Mauerlat. It is attached to the racks of the frame with a gash using corners, staples or nails. 
Methods for attaching rafters to the harness in frame house The construction of a roof made of brick, concrete blocks or concrete implies fastening through a Mauerlat. In this case, there are several ways. There are four ways to put the Mauerlat on the wall:
- on staples;
- on studs;
- on anchor bolts.
Mauerlat can be fixed on brackets. In this case, wooden blocks are laid in the masonry from the inside. They should be located at a distance of 4 rows from the edge. One side of the bracket is attached to the Mauerlat, and the other to the same bar in the masonry. The method can also be classified as simple. It is not recommended for large buildings with high loads. 
Mauerlat fastening on brackets. In the masonry of the wall, antiseptic wooden bars are provided in increments of 1-1.5 m. Do-it-yourself fastening when installing the roof can be done through studs or anchor bolts with a diameter of 10-12 mm. Fasteners are laid in the masonry. A Mauerlat is temporarily placed on the edge, you need to lightly hit it with a hammer. After that, recesses remain on the beam in the places of fasteners. On them you need to make holes for the studs. After that, the timber is put on the fasteners and the nuts are tightened. The method is ideal for walls made of lightweight concrete in the presence of a monolithic armo-belt. 
Fastening rafters to Mauerlat
In houses made of brick or stone, it is more reasonable to carry out with the help of a rigid attachment of the rafters to the Mauerlat. In this case, you can use both layered and hanging systems. The design assumes two ways:
- with a notch;
- without notch.
Connection with and without cutting In the first case, the rafters are hemmed with a slope so that they are tightly adjacent to the Mauerlat. For the removal of the cornice, fillies are provided. They are attached to the leg with an overlap of at least 1 m. Rigid fixation of the knot should be done using self-tapping screws, nails or staples. But more reliable assembled frame will have if you use metal corners with holes for self-tapping screws for fixing. 
The method without cutting often does not involve the use of fillies. In this case, the frame overhang is provided by the beams themselves. This option is simpler than the previous one, since it does not require high accuracy. It is suitable for beginners. For a snug fit to the Mauerlat, in this case, use persistent bars or boards. Rigid fixation, as in the previous case, is performed with metal corners on both sides. 
Fastening rafters to the wall
INTERESTING VIDEO
How to make a roof at home with your own hands
Any building consists of three main parts - the supporting structure, the box and the upper structure. It is the upper structure that determines the functionality of the building, its reliability and comfort of living. However, it may well be done by hand, if you study the features and principles of building the roof of the house.
Types of roofs
Depending on the shape of the structure of the box of the building and its size, various roof structures are used, many of which can be made by hand.
gable roofs
The most common house roof structures that are easy to calculate and do it yourself. 
The angle of inclination of the rafter legs varies in the range of 20 - 50 °, it is selected depending on the magnitude of wind and snow loads acting in the construction region. Making such a roof with your own hands is not difficult. The simplicity of the design allows you to correctly calculate the need for materials, avoiding overspending.
hip roofs
Such structures differ from gable structures - the presence of additional side planes with a certain slope. 
Obviously, it is somewhat more difficult to correctly calculate such a roof of a house than a gable roof, but it is also quite affordable for do-it-yourself construction. Danish hip - the roof of the house is formed in such a way that only part of the pediment is cut off. This is done in the case when it is necessary to increase the volume of the attic room. 
The rounding of the roof in its lower part is an atypical case, usually all slopes are straight. Norwegian hip - the roof is made with an overlap in the upper part of the pediment, which makes it possible, in particular, to arrange a canopy over the balcony or loggia elements of the building. 
Multi-pitched roofs - such a roof is arranged for purely design reasons, without sacrificing its functional qualities. At the same time, truss systems are designed using computer programs, and execution is hardly possible with your own hands without special skills. Such roofs can only be properly made by qualified specialists. 
For the final coating of such roofs, small-format materials in the form of tiles are used as the final outer coating. Large format materials can be used inefficiently.
Rafter systems
The topside of the building is complex structure, which consists of a number of elements:
Installation of a hip roof truss system
Before proceeding with it, you need to properly organize the workplace:
- put the ceiling beams in place and fix them;
- lay a draft attic floor in accordance with the project.
As preparatory event it is imperative to make a draft design of the truss system, which will allow you to correctly calculate the need for materials depending on the angle of inclination of the slopes, using graph paper, a pencil and a ruler, you can prepare drawings of the main elements of details on the roof of the house with your own hands.
Installation of the spinal beam (ridge beam)
With a symmetrical installation of slopes, the axis of the ridge beam will pass strictly along the longitudinal axis of the building:
- using the dimensions from the draft design, you need to cut out and install in place the bed - the supporting element of the ridge beam through the racks;
- cut out the racks, install them on the bed and fix them vertically with temporary jibs;
- install the ridge beam on the racks and fix it to the racks using plates and self-tapping screws with a length of at least 50mm. Make fasteners on both coinciding planes (4 places);
- carefully set the resulting structure along the longitudinal axis of the building, check the verticality, finally fix the racks on the bed with metal corners (8 places - 4 plates and 4 corners);
- cut in place and install the rafters connecting the ridge beam with the Mauerlat corners, fasten with plates and corners. If all the diagonal rafters are the same size, the symmetrical roof is correct;
- rafter legs must be installed in cuts to ensure emphasis on the ridge beam and Mauerlat. Therefore, it is advisable to pre-produce an appropriate template from more than light board(25 mm) and cut rafter legs along it;
- the installation step of the rafters is best coordinated with the width of the insulation from which the roofing cake will be formed. This will save materials and time in its manufacture;
- after installing the rafters, it is advisable to immediately install the stiffening elements of the system - struts and trusses, the parts are cut out in place;
- sprigs are also made locally, taking into account the dimensions of the insulation and are installed with fastening through the plates;
- the entire truss system along the perimeter of the building must be cut, taking into account the size of the overhang along the cord. If necessary, to increase the overhang, you can install fillies - rafter extensions.
INTERESTING VIDEO
Continuation of work depends on the existing weather conditions. If the weather is stable and the forecast is favorable, you can begin to form a roofing pie. Otherwise, this operation can be performed after installing the roof finish, from the inside.
Formation of the roofing cake
The purpose of this element is to save heat in the house. It is calculated that in houses with insulated attic spaces heating costs are reduced by 20 - 25%. Thus, the cost of insulation will return in the form of savings due to energy consumption. 
The order of work is as follows:
crate
This element is the bearing surface for the final roofing, in addition, it holds together the entire structure of the upper structure of the house. The crate happens:
- solid - the distance between individual boards can be 5 - 10 mm;
- sparse - the distance between individual elements is up to 250 mm;
- rare - the distance between the boards is up to 900 mm;
- counter-lattice - is performed to provide a ventilation opening under the finish coating of corrugated board or tiles.
A continuous crate is used when using small-format materials such as tiles as a finishing coating. The material for the lathing is usually a cut or unedged board with a thickness of 25 mm. Do not use boards with a width of more than 15 cm, constantly exposed to moisture, the boards of the crate are warped. The result may be swelling of individual elements of the roof with a violation of its continuity. The crate on the roof of the house, due to the ease of execution, can be done with your own hands. 
Roof top coat installation
Depending on the complexity, the roof of the house can be entrusted to specialists, and a simple gable roof can be properly covered with your own hands. In the process of framing and installing the finishing coat, it is necessary to observe the order in which additional elements are installed on the roof, to do individual work out of turn, sometimes it is simply impossible without violating the mating elements.
Additional premises
When attaching additional verandas or rooms to the house, it must be borne in mind that the foundation in the extension will live an independent life for at least another five years. The roof will behave accordingly. Therefore, on the extension, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of free movement of its elements without losing the basic qualities.
Conclusion
Completion of construction is a crucial stage, however, even before starting work, it must be remembered that all wood used in structures must undergo antiseptic and fire-fighting treatment. Otherwise, all costs may be in vain. When starting to do the work with your own hands, you need to understand that each step needs to be considered and analyzed. I wish you success! What else to read on the topic? 
How to make a gable roof video 
How to install rafters with your own hands 
shed roof DIY home
Article author:
Sergey Novozhilov is an expert in roofing materials with 9 years of experience practical work in area engineering solutions in construction.
Source: proroofer.ru
INTERESTING VIDEO
How to make the roof of a frame house with your own hands
Finally, in my frame house, I reached the roof. It was December 15 outside and I realized that I didn’t have time to make the roof alone, and soon it would snow (and, as it turned out, it would rain), so I decided to call a team of builders I knew for help. Looking ahead, I’ll say that, to my delight, the main frame of 42 rafters with film, batten and counter batten was installed in just 11 hours by me and 4 lads (for the contacts of these giants, contact the comments or email). You understand, with photos of the process it’s tight, because in 11 hours there was no time even to eat or sit down. The task was tough - to do everything in one day. But we didn't deal with that either. And now about everything in order. I did the calculations for my roof in the text about the calculation of the section of the rafters. Let me remind you, the initial data:
The house is 8.75 meters wide + sheathing with an inch another 5 centimeters = 8.8 meters. 
Accordingly, spans of floor beams: 
Let me remind you that the snow load in our region is 240-320 kg per m2, i.e. very serious. According to the calculations, the rafter should have a section of at least 176 mm. So I took a 190 x 45 mm rafter with a light margin (generally, it was 200 x 50 mm, but dried up).
I talked about cutouts in the rafters in the text on how to make cutouts in the rafters correctly. In theory, everything sounded quite complicated, but in practice, the guys sawed and made cuts in all 40-odd rafters in an hour and a half, and this despite the fact that many were crooked and had to be leveled along the entire length to one size.
Now I’ll tell you in detail how the work went so that you can use it later. 1. We determine the center of the building from both gables, pull the thread. We put a flat board 150 × 50 along these threads, which will serve as a support for the ridge board and pin it to the floor lintels, as well as to the floor joists with an arbitrary step. It will show up in the next photo. 2. We set the supports for the ridge along the edges and the center of the building (in our case, according to the calculation for a roof angle of 26 degrees, they were 2.1 meters). Along the edges of the building, we nailed them to the sheathing (I already had a sheathing with an inch on the pediment), in the center we grab the support from below and make a mowing for it to the ceiling so that it does not fall. 
3. We select the most even boards (in our case, two boards with a total length of 12.2 meters were enough, just a house 11.25 meters long and about 45 cm on each side for the gable overhang).
We expose the horse. 
The quality of the photo is not very good, alas. 4. We sort all the rafters, divide them into 3 piles: ideal, normal and very bad.
We take the ideal ones on the first 2 rafters, which will act as patterns. To do this, we take the first ideal board, make a cutout for the ridge and apply it to it, but 3-4 centimeters higher. Now, from below, another person marks the place and depth of the cutout in the rafter so that it then sits there when lowered by 3-4 centimeters. 5. Now we attach 2 patterns of the resulting ones to the skate and see if there are any gaps. No? Great, we apply them on the other pediment (suddenly the house is crooked?). In our case, the house was almost perfect + -5 mm, so that all the rafters turned out the same. 
We give the patterns down, and there in an hour they saw 40 more pieces of the same for us (one I would saw them all day). They choose normal boards for the rafters, in the end they had to take very bad ones, but they were cut along the entire length to one size (190 mm). 
Outcome 
Beauty, right? 6. After all the usual rafters were installed, we moved on to the remote rafters (consoles), which are also the basis for the end board. 
First, we put them on a temporary board nailed to the wall and attach them to the ridge. And after that we pull the threads (so as not to burst the console) and stuff between outrigger rafter and ordinary with sheathing - jumpers. 
Wow high! In the end they look like this: 
7. Now it's time to add temporary supports under the ridge. 
According to the calculation, with my slope and snow load, I need support under the ridge with a section of at least 100 × 100 in increments of 1100 mm (calculated using Norwegian software for calculating loads). Many put supports under the ridge 150 × 40 (like my temporary ones in the photo), but this is wrong, since the deflection strength in this case is considered according to the smallest section and is equal to 40 mm, and 40 mm does not hold my load. True, there is an option to make jibs on both sides between each each support, then they will be strong enough. 8. The next step was to stretch the waterproofing and stuff the counter-lattice.
Note that the first short of the counter batten is pulled over the end of the rafter without waterproofing. 
Waterproofing is not brought to the eaves so that the roof is better ventilated. 
9. And now the turn of the battens has come with a step of 350 mm under the metal tile. Her lads did with the speed of the wind. I just managed to make all the cantilever outriggers with my partner, and they made a crate on both slopes and urged us on. 
Oh, and tired of all the participants in this event! And this is the result: 
As a result, by 22-00 we did everything we wanted and went home. It remains for me alone to finish the cornices, gable overhangs and lathing in some places and, of course, to cover the roof with metal. Thus it is possible to do frame roof with a span of 9 meters and bearing wall in the middle. If you want this cool team to come to your construction site, write to me (you can use the red box on the right of the screen)!
The fundamental structures of the house will be exposed to the destructive effects of external factors without a solid, reliable roof. In order to save money, homeowners often do all the roofing work themselves. It should be borne in mind that this stage of construction is as important as laying the foundation or erecting walls. Moreover, before starting work, it is necessary to determine what type of flooring is suitable for a house under construction?
Difficulties in choosing a roof structure: information for reflection
Usually, at the initial stage of design, several types of "roofing" attract attention, differing in the complexity of the work, the amount and type of material. The erected roof of the house with your own hands should not retain precipitation on the surface, withstand gusts of wind, and please with its appearance.
If we briefly characterize the variety of designs available for independent execution, we get the following accents:
- The method of erecting a frame with one gentle slope is the most economical and simple to perform.
- A roof with two slopes, traditionally most in demand among owners of houses, cottages, it is enough to correctly position and strengthen two simple slopes between them. The work is done quickly and easily.
- The four-slope design will look elegant, it can vary from to half-hip. It is more complex, but it also gives maximum opportunities for creating a unique exterior of the building.
- The hip version is a frame that is flat on 4 sides, two opposite surfaces of which make up regular triangles, and the other two are trapezoids.
- The half-hip variety is a kind of constructive symbiosis, combining the features of a gable and hip design, characterized by broken roof lines and complex execution. Strict proportions of four triangular slopes under one peak and harmonious execution distinguish the roofing "tent" in the form of a pyramid.
- The attic design looks original with characteristic kinks in the middle of the slopes or bevels on the vertical sides. As a rule, compatriots want to get additional square meters of living space when building a roof, using an attic for this purpose.
Attention! Before you make the roof of the house, it should be noted that the increase in the load on the ceiling and the increase in the area of \u200b\u200bthe house is directly proportional to the increase in additional fasteners. A large number of slopes leads to an increase in labor costs for its construction. A novice builder should not take on the construction of complex structures, because. this requires serious calculations and a complex rafter scheme.
The dependence of the operational characteristics of the roof on the type of roof
The type of future decorative coating affects the choice of section of wooden elements. For example, when tiling ceramics, the strongest frame should be made, because. piece material has a much greater weight than even slate or metal sheet. The complexity of the roof structure, its area, and the type of coating affect the consumption of materials. In turn, the slope is performed based on the area of \u200b\u200bthe roof and the type of roofing material: metal, ceramic,; slate; soft roll materials, metal sheets, etc. 
Multi-layered roofing "robe"
Having decided on the choice of the form of the roof, a drawing is made, where the main elements are indicated: the truss system, supports, nodal connections, thermal insulation, roofing.
In the simplest case (a flat version of the roof), the layering of the cake is as follows:
- ceiling covering;
- vapor barrier layer;
- insulation;
- strengthening screed;
- waterproofing layer.
With a pitched roof, the main element is the rafter frame, which holds the entire load and consists of:
- Mauerlat;
- rafters;
- crates;
- crossbars;
- puffs.
- waterproofing;
- insulation;
- vapor barrier coating;
- counterlattice;
- roof.
To hold the weight, coniferous tree material of a certain moisture content (20%) is used, without flaws in the form of knots. For work, you will still need fasteners (staples, screws, nails, self-tapping screws), the necessary tools, equipment. 
The order should not be violated: the technology of erecting a pitched roof
Stage # 1 Formation of a reinforced base under the rafters
A layer of reinforced concrete is formed along the upper crown of the masonry walls of the house, increasing the bearing capacity of the structures and leveling them in a horizontal position. It is not necessary to reinforce the walls if they are made of logs or timber. Studs are attached to the liquid solution of the belt, which are fasteners to the base of the reinforcing screed for the Mauerlat, a bar with a section of 150x150. In this case, the ends of the studs should protrude 30 mm from the support beam - the skeleton for the truss frame. The cross section of the supporting structure is the greater, the more powerful the rafter design and the weight of the roof. The reinforced edging before laying the Mauerlat must be waterproofed, for example, with roofing material. At the same time, in order to reduce the risk of decay, the minimum distance of the support beam from the wall must be maintained at least 10 cm. The support log is fixed on the protruding studs with nuts with a non-corrosive coating. Mauerlat beams are laid strictly parallel to the ridge.
Attention! All stages of work on the construction of the roof are carried out with constant monitoring of compliance with the horizontal. For this, the building level is used.
Stage # 2 Selection of wooden elements
The stage of installation of structures similar to compasses is preceded by a preliminary wooden blank (150x50), you can use timber, small fragments of boards of different sizes and sections, which will be used as crossbars, spacers, ties, struts that strengthen the rafter legs and enhance the strength of the entire structure.
The frame, which bears the main load, is a rafter fastened to the Mauerlat. If the hip option is chosen, then shortened “legs” are also needed that support the diagonal rafter laying on both sides (spiders) standing on the Mauerlat. They should be 5x15 cm in section and fasten the rafter supports.
Stage # 3 Mounting the truss frame
- In any case, when decorating the frame with rafters, one of their ends is placed in a special recess in emphasis on the Mauerlat, and the other rests on the ridge or lies on the opposite supporting element. In the lower part, the rafters are additionally nailed to the Mauerlat with nails with a working rod length of 20 cm. Wooden supports are also fixed between themselves with bolts. To do this, nests of the desired diameter are drilled in the tree.
Important! Before building a roof with two slopes, pine or larch wood is pre-treated with refractory antiseptic compounds. The first two triangular frames are assembled near the house, on the ground, in finished form they rise to the Mauerlat, where they are immediately temporarily fastened with spacers and joined with the ridge structure. Only after that the rest of the rafters are installed.
- Between themselves, the "legs" are located at a certain distance, based on the load. The most is nothing more than triangles lined up in a row, the tops of which are mounted on a longitudinal beam.
- The step between the elements of the frame should be such as to support the weight of the crate, finish coating, the load from vapor and waterproofing, and insulation.
- The angle of inclination is an important detail in construction. For each region, it is selected specifically. In cold conditions with an abundance of precipitation, the best option is 40-45 °. In regions with windy weather, a slope of 20° should be adhered to. Hot dry areas allow the use of an angle with the lowest value of 3°.
Stage # 4 Lathing device
The stuffing of the crate is carried out after the installation of all rafters. It maintains the necessary gap between the heat insulator and the waterproof coating that removes the resulting condensate. A waterproofing material is laid on it, which prevents the penetration of moisture into the room and passes vaporous emissions from a warm room into the insulation.
The crate is mounted on the rafters to hold the roof. For this, large-sized integral boards (about 2 m) with a thickness of 25 cm are useful. Based on the type of coating, they stuff a solid (for tiles, roll coating) or trellised crate (slate, metal sheet), fastened perpendicular to the rafters. The joints between the boards, not exceeding a gap of 5 mm in size, must be fixed on supports.
Stage # 5 Heat, steam, waterproofing
- You can insulate the roof with mineral wool, carefully laying it in the space between the rafters. "quench" the noise.
- A vapor barrier membrane (reinforced film) is stretched over the top of the mineral wool to prevent the insulation from getting wet. It should cover the frame with some margin, designed to change the parameters in the event of thermal expansion. Be sure to ensure tight contact of the film with external walls, pipes. If it is necessary to glue the canvases together, this must be done carefully, obtaining a holistic connection.
- Ventilation ducts also contribute to maintaining a special microclimate. To do this, small gaps should be left in the crate: 2 or even 3 channels on each side.
Stage # 6 Installation of roofing
The final stage is to correctly lay the roofing elements directly on the crate so that they can withstand the loads and create an airtight coating. The laying direction is "right to left" and "bottom up". The easiest way (and cheaper), which does not affect reliability at all, is to use slate. He is unpretentious in installation. This is the option that is suitable for arranging the roof for the first time with your own hands. Don't forget the drainage system. It must be activated along the entire perimeter of the roof, and effectively remove precipitation in the required direction and in the required amount.
The arrangement of the roof does not take a critically long time, provided that the preparatory stage is carefully completed, the technology for performing the work is observed. No need to rush to buy cheap materials. And you should also carefully study the theoretical material, watch a video on how to properly build a roof. At a sufficient level, master the “basics” of working with metalwork and woodworking tools.
Any building consists of three main parts - the supporting structure, the box and the upper structure. It is the upper structure that determines the functionality of the building, its reliability and comfort of living. However, it may well be done by hand, if you study the features and principles of building the roof of the house.
Types of roofs
Depending on the shape of the structure of the box of the building and its size, various roof structures are used, many of which can be made by hand.
gable roofs
The most common house roof structures that are easy to calculate and do it yourself.
The angle of inclination of the rafter legs varies in the range of 20 - 50 °, it is selected depending on the magnitude of wind and snow loads acting in the construction region. Making such a roof with your own hands is not difficult. The simplicity of the design allows you to correctly calculate the need for materials, avoiding overspending.
hip roofs
Such structures differ from gable structures - the presence of additional side planes with a certain slope.
Danish hip - the roof of the house is formed in such a way that only part of the pediment is cut off. This is done in the case when it is necessary to increase the volume of the attic room.
The rounding of the roof in its lower part is an atypical case, usually all slopes are straight.
Norwegian hip - the roof is made with an overlap in the upper part of the pediment, which makes it possible, in particular, to arrange a canopy over the balcony or loggia elements of the building.
Multi-pitched roofs - such a roof is arranged for purely design reasons, without sacrificing its functional qualities. At the same time, truss systems are designed using computer programs, and execution is hardly possible with your own hands without special skills. Such roofs can only be properly made by qualified specialists.
For the final coating of such roofs, small-format materials in the form of tiles are used as the final outer coating. Large format materials can be used inefficiently.
Rafter systems
The upper structure of the building is a complex structure, which consists of a number of elements:
Installation of a hip roof truss system
Before proceeding with it, you need to properly organize the workplace:
- put the ceiling beams in place and fix them;
- lay a draft attic floor in accordance with the project.
As a preparatory measure, it is imperative to make a draft design of the truss system, which will allow you to correctly calculate the need for materials depending on the angle of inclination of the slopes, using graph paper, a pencil and a ruler, you can prepare drawings of the main elements of details on the roof of the house with your own hands.
Installation of the spinal beam (ridge beam)
With a symmetrical installation of slopes, the axis of the ridge beam will pass strictly along the longitudinal axis of the building:
- using the dimensions from the draft design, you need to cut out and install in place the bed - the supporting element of the ridge beam through the racks;
- cut out the racks, install them on the bed and fix them vertically with temporary jibs;
- install the ridge beam on the racks and fix it to the racks using plates and self-tapping screws with a length of at least 50mm. Make fasteners on both coinciding planes (4 places);
- carefully set the resulting structure along the longitudinal axis of the building, check the verticality, finally fix the racks on the bed with metal corners (8 places - 4 plates and 4 corners);
- cut in place and install the rafters connecting the ridge beam with the Mauerlat corners, fasten with plates and corners. If all the diagonal rafters are the same size, the symmetrical roof is correct;
- rafter legs must be installed in cuts to ensure emphasis on the ridge beam and Mauerlat. Therefore, it is advisable to pre-make an appropriate template from a lighter board (25 mm) and cut rafter legs along it;
- the installation step of the rafters is best coordinated with the width of the insulation from which the roofing cake will be formed. This will save materials and time in its manufacture;
- after installing the rafters, it is advisable to immediately install the stiffening elements of the system - struts and trusses, the parts are cut out in place;
- sprigs are also made locally, taking into account the dimensions of the insulation and are installed with fastening through the plates;
- the entire truss system along the perimeter of the building must be cut, taking into account the size of the overhang along the cord. If necessary, to increase the overhang, filly can be installed - rafter extensions.
Continuation of work depends on the prevailing weather conditions. If the weather is stable and the forecast is favorable, you can begin to form a roofing pie. Otherwise, this operation can be performed after installing the roof finish, from the inside.
Formation of the roofing cake
The purpose of this element is heat saving in the house. It is calculated that in houses with insulated attics, heating costs are reduced by 20 - 25%. Thus, the cost of insulation will return in the form of savings due to energy consumption.
The order of work is as follows:
- Carry out padding of the supporting boards from the inside for laying insulation. Material - edged or unedged board 25 mm thick, width no more than 150 mm, sanding is required.
- Lay a layer of steam protection using polyethylene film. It must be overlapped with an overlap of at least 10 cm, it is desirable to glue the joints with construction tape.
- Lay the insulation material on top. When choosing it for the roof, you need to take into account the characteristics of the material. Fibrous materials tend to absorb water, while they form lumps, and the water deteriorates, an unpleasant putrefactive odor appears, damage to wooden structures is very likely. Therefore, for a roofing cake, tile materials such as foam plastic and the like are preferred.
- A waterproof membrane must be laid on top of the insulation, its feature is the one-sided passage of water and moisture. The matt front surface does not allow water to pass through from the outside, and moisture from the inside freely moves through microscopic holes into the air, so the roofing cake undergoes regular drying.
crate
This element is the bearing surface for the final roofing, in addition, it holds together the entire structure of the upper structure of the house.
The crate happens:
- solid - the distance between individual boards can be 5 - 10 mm;
- sparse - the distance between individual elements is up to 250 mm;
- rare - the distance between the boards is up to 900 mm;
- counter-lattice - is performed to provide a ventilation opening under the finish coating of corrugated board or tiles.
A continuous crate is used when using small-format materials such as tiles as a finishing coating.
The material for the lathing is usually a cut or unedged board with a thickness of 25 mm. Do not use boards with a width of more than 15 cm, constantly exposed to moisture, the boards of the crate are warped. The result may be swelling of individual elements of the roof with a violation of its continuity. The crate on the roof of the house, due to the ease of execution, can be done with your own hands.
Roof top coat installation
Depending on the complexity, the roof of the house can be entrusted to specialists, and a simple gable roof can be properly covered with your own hands. In the process of framing and installing the finishing coat, it is necessary to observe the order in which additional elements are installed on the roof, to do individual work out of turn, sometimes it is simply impossible without violating the mating elements.
Additional premises
When attaching additional verandas or rooms to the house, it must be borne in mind that the foundation in the extension will live an independent life for at least another five years. The roof will behave accordingly. Therefore, on the extension, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of free movement of its elements without losing the basic qualities.
Conclusion
Completion of construction is a crucial stage, however, even before starting work, it must be remembered that all wood used in structures must undergo antiseptic and fire-fighting treatment. Otherwise, all costs may be in vain.
When starting to do the work with your own hands, you need to understand that each step needs to be considered and analyzed. I wish you success!
