Attaching the water heater to the wall. How to hang a water heater on a wall with tiles. Necessary parts, tools
Equally in demand today electric heater and boiler. How to install such equipment will be described in this article. With the help of such a device, you can cope with the problems of turning off hot water. Among other things, such installations can work on an ongoing basis. In a wide range in modern stores, you can find storage or flow-through electric boilers, the latter of which are less in demand, because they are inferior to storage ones in terms of volume and profitability. To install such a device, you can use the services of specialists or cope with the work yourself, but you will need to follow all safety rules. To do this, the electricity is completely turned off, and the hot water pipes are blocked.
Preparation of materials
If you decide to purchase such equipment, you should find out in advance. Of course, doing the work yourself is cheaper. If you refuse the services of professionals, then you should prepare a certain set of materials for installation. You will need either a safety valve, two flexible water hoses, and two dowel-nails. When buying a water hose, you should take into account that you will need two elements, each of which is 2 m long. However, the length will depend on the distance to the tie-in to the water supply system. When buying dowel-nails, it should be noted that there must be hooks at their ends. By the way, about the safety valve. It should be mentioned that it comes with electric boiler. The valve must have a diameter of 10 mm.
Instrument preparation
So, you need a boiler. How to install such equipment, you should know even before you purchase it. Do you want to do the installation yourself? Good luck! However, it is worth considering that in some cases, if the work is carried out independently, the manufacturer's warranty will be canceled. In addition to materials, certain tools should be prepared, among them: screwdrivers, drills with a victorious tip for attaching to a brick wall, an adjustable wrench and a puncher. The latter can be replaced with an electric drill.
Installation instructions
Many home craftsmen, having learned how much it costs to install a boiler, prefer to do all the work on their own. This is not surprising, given that such services cost about 5,000 rubles. Do you have skills and do you know which side to approach the puncher and how to hold a screwdriver? Then why overpay? But if you do the installation yourself, you will have to prepare properly. Not the last role here is played by the reviews of those people who are not new to doing such a thing. If you study all the recommendations, you can come to the following.
The process should begin by choosing a place to mount in the bathroom or bathroom. Most often, such equipment is installed above the toilet, where it will not interfere with anyone. It is necessary to check the strength of the wall, as it will have to endure the load from the boiler. If there are unreinforced drywall partitions in the room, then you should refrain from installing the unit on them. With a boiler volume of 50 liters or more, a double load will fall on the wall, that is, 100 kg.
Before you install the boiler in the apartment, you should decide on the lowest point of the location of the equipment, marking it on the wall surface. Next, the master measures the distance from the mounting plate to bottom point. The first is firmly welded to the body of the equipment. The resulting distance must be marked on the wall. The next step is to drill two holes. The masters emphasize that it is necessary to remember that mounting plate does not have such holes, anchors with a hook at the end should cling to its edge.
So, everything is ready to mount the boiler on the wall. How to install it correctly? The question is by no means idle: the structure must be securely fastened, because the fall of such a massive device can cause injury. If the wall is made of concrete or brick, then for the work of the master it is recommended to use a puncher with a victorious drill. Used for wood wall conventional drill on wood, the diameter of which is smaller than that of a plastic dowel. The latter must be installed in the hole and, if necessary, driven in.
The metal anchor is screwed in until it stops turning. As a rule, a depth of 12 cm is sufficient. The boiler should be hung by hooking the anchor hooks on the bar to fix it on the unit body. On this, the process of hanging the equipment can be considered completed. As you can see, the technology is not very complicated, so anyone can master it. House master. At the next stage, you can connect the boiler to the water supply system, for this you should use flexible hoses.
We connect!
Judging by the reviews, polypropylene pipes can be used instead of flexible hoses, but it will cost more and take more time. There are two tubes at the bottom of the boiler, one of which has a blue plastic ring. Cold water will flow through it. The second tube is indicated in red and is intended for hot water outlet.
According to the craftsmen, in the place where cold water is supplied, a safety valve should be installed. It is usually supplied in the kit or purchased separately. The first step is to attach the relief valve. Do not forget to pre-wind the thread sanitary flax or sealing tape.
Masters advise at the next stage to screw one end of the flexible hose onto the safety valve. In this case, you must refuse to use the tape, since the hose nut contains rubber gasket acting as a sealant. Well, the question of how to install a boiler in an apartment is practically solved. The next step is to screw one end of the flexible hose to the pipe from which the hot coolant comes. In this case, sealing tape is also not required.
Now you can start connecting the free ends of the hoses. The end to which cold water will flow should be connected to water pipe. A valve or tap must first be installed at this place, which will, if necessary, shut off the fluid supply. Do not neglect this recommendation, as the boiler may fail during operation or require replacement of spare parts. The free end of the other hose must be connected to the pipe that goes to the faucet.
In principle, it is not difficult to install a water boiler on your own. You just need to arm yourself with certain knowledge (in addition to tools and materials). And there are many nuances in such a case. In particular, before connecting the unit, it is necessary to remove the tees on the water pipes. In the absence of certain experience, it is better to entrust this work to professionals. Now you can do electrical part. If we are talking about Thermex brand water heaters, they have one feature, which is the presence of a cable for connection along with a plug in the kit. Moreover, this element is connected to the boiler. If this is not the case, then Consumables will have to be purchased separately.
And further. In order for everything to go off without a hitch (read - without accidents), the masters strongly recommend observing safety precautions when working with electricity.
What else needs to be considered when carrying out work
If you are faced with the question of how to properly install the boiler, then you should know that you do not have to open the lid if everything is already connected in the equipment. It is enough to install a grounded socket in advance, which should be located near the equipment. You should turn on the cold water tap to check how tight and secure the connection is. If there are no leaks, the boiler plug can be connected to the outlet. Now you know how to install. If you did everything correctly, then the indicator on the case should light up. After that, you can set a certain temperature using the regulator, which is usually located at the bottom.
Conclusion
It is important to remember the main mistakes that are made when connecting the equipment described in the article. In particular, before installing a boiler in the bathroom, the masters recommend taking care of the presence of a circulation system. This will minimize energy losses if the pipes are constantly hot water.
The water heater has a simpler name - a boiler. This is an ideal alternative to the lack of hot water in the house. In addition, it allows you to save money on utility bills.
Usually the boiler is installed either in the bathroom or in the kitchen. However, if it is about country house, it is possible to install the device on the roof.
Design features
The design of any water heater necessarily includes fasteners. They vary depending on where the boiler is installed - on the wall or on the floor.
WITH floor device everything is relatively simple. But mounting to the wall is carried out using steel fasteners on the back side of the tank body for heating water. In this case, you will need dowels, the dimensions of which must correspond to the mounts on the boiler. By the way, there are devices that require the removal of the back panel. The dowels are fastened with a construction gun. If there is none, then you need to drill holes for screws for fasteners using a puncher or drill.
Usually fasteners - steel hooks - are included with the water heater. Parts should only be used if they are of high quality. Their diameter should exceed one centimeter.
The water equipment market is represented by three main types of boilers. The method will depend on their type. installation work:
- indirect heating. The peculiarity lies in the absence of heating elements, heating of the liquid is possible from external sources. The design can be both wall and floor.
- Gas storage. The liquid is in a special container, it is heated due to the fact that the gas burns. It is recommended to entrust the installation to specialists.
- Electric storage. Liquid heating is provided by heating elements at the bottom of the tank, the water temperature is regulated by a thermostat. The most popular due to the ease of installation, connection and operation.
Location selection
Regardless of where the boiler will be located - in the bathroom or in the kitchen - you should pay attention to a number of nuances:
- the device must be located near communications (water and electricity);
- installation is optimal in the sanitary compartment;
- compactness of the device in the case of a small quadrature of the room;
- the wall must withstand the potential load, not only from the device itself, but also from the water poured into it;
- humidity in the place potentially established design should not be high. Otherwise, the device will easily fail.
If the owner of the premises has chosen the bathroom as the location of the tank, he must take into account the possible inconvenience if the heater is mounted above the bathroom itself. 
How to fix the device?
Brick or block walls are considered ideal for mounting a water heater, but it is highly undesirable to mount it on a thin wall. However, mounting on other types of materials is also acceptable. The most common:
- drywall,
- tile,
- tree,
- lining,
- foam blocks,
- plaster.
Consider the installation features for each type of wall. 
Drywall
Experts consider drywall to be a capricious material and question its resistance to stress. However, there are two effective ways by which you can install a boiler in a room sheathed with drywall sheets:
- installation on reinforcement, which is laid under the sheathing material of the walls;
- installation on holes made in the wall.
Tile
Sometimes during the repair the question arises: when is it better to mount the heating tank - before laying the tiles or after. It's good to have options. What if the tiles are already installed? Qualified specialists believe that in this case three conditions must be met:
- glue evenly applied to the tile;
- tiles must be laid without voids;
- the wall must be made of solid materials that do not allow the tile to sag or stagger.
If all the requirements are met, then any water heater can be mounted on top of the tile. 
Tree
Information about attaching the tank to wooden surface full of contradictions. According to some sources, mounting on a tree is highly undesirable, since the wall will not be able to withstand the enormous load, which will become even greater after filling the boiler with water.
According to other sources, the installation is acceptable. True, with a caveat. Before fixing the water heater, it is important to choose a non-combustible base for the unit in accordance with fire safety rules.
clapboard
This material in this case is considered capricious. Therefore, you can not do without special conditions for the installation process. It will take two vertical beams, which need to be carefully processed and painted to match the color of the lining or tank. They are thoroughly fixed, and a water heater is already hung on them. By itself, the lining is not able to withstand the weight of the boiler. 
foam concrete
You will need special fasteners such as nylon spiral dowels. If the volume of the device exceeds 100 liters, it makes sense to use metal fasteners. Two mounting options are acceptable - using metal dowels or using special or chemical anchors for foam concrete. The option using a chemical (or adhesive) anchor is considered the most reliable and modern, as well as environmentally friendly.
plaster
There are two mounting options:
- Cutting holes in the slabs for the frame (metal profile pipes) with subsequent fixation to solid surfaces such as ceilings, floors or walls.
- The use of two metal tires 40x4, bent at right angles. They will be used as anchors. One end of each tire goes to the anchor to concrete ceilings, and the other for additional fixation - to the dowels to the wall.
Tools needed for the job
To install a water heater you will need:
- instructions describing the connection;
- pencil;
- metal hooks;
- dowels and screws;
- roulette;
- construction pistol;
- perforator or drill;
- hoses;
- network cable;
- water purification filter;
- nozzles.
Clarification regarding hoses for supplying water to the unit: better is more expensive, but more reliable. Flexible products can fail ahead of schedule. It is desirable if the elements for connecting pipes are copper.
To connect plumbing fixtures to the water supply network, a flexible water supply is used. It is in demand when connecting faucets, showers, toilets and other points of water intake, and greatly simplifies the installation process. Flexible piping is also used during installation gas equipment. It differs from similar devices for water in manufacturing technology and special safety requirements.
Characteristics and types
Flexible hose for plumbing is a hose of different lengths, made of non-toxic synthetic rubber. Due to the elasticity and softness of the material, it easily takes the desired position and allows installation in hard-to-reach places. To protect the flexible hose, the upper reinforcing layer is designed in the form of a braid, which is made of the following materials:
- aluminum. Such models withstand no more than +80 ° C and retain functionality for 3 years. At high humidity aluminum braid is prone to rust.
- Of stainless steel. Thanks to this reinforcing layer, the service life of the flexible water supply is at least 10 years, and the maximum temperature of the transported medium is +95 °C.
- Nylon. Such a braid is used for the manufacture of reinforced models that can withstand temperatures up to +110 ° C and are designed for intensive use for 15 years.
Nut-nut and nut-nipple pairs are used as fasteners, which are made of brass or of stainless steel. Devices with different indicators of permissible temperature differ in the color of the braid. Blue ones are used to connect to a pipeline with cold water, and red ones - to hot water.
When choosing a water supply, you need to pay attention to its elasticity, reliability of fasteners and purpose. It is also mandatory to have a certificate that excludes the release of toxic components by rubber during operation.
Features of gas connections
When connecting gas stoves, speakers and other types of equipment also use flexible piping. Unlike models for water, they have yellow and are not tested for environmental safety. For fixing, end steel or aluminum fittings are used. There are the following types of devices for connecting gas appliances:
- PVC hoses reinforced with polyester thread;
- synthetic rubber with stainless steel braid;
- bellows, made in the form of a corrugated stainless steel tube.
Holding "Santekhkomplekt" offers engineering equipment, fittings, plumbing and accessories for its connection to communications. The range is represented by products and materials of well-known foreign and domestic manufacturers. Discounts apply for bulk purchases, and product quality is confirmed by standard certificates. For information support and assistance, a personal manager is assigned to each client. The ability to arrange delivery within Moscow and to other regions of the Russian Federation allows you to quickly receive the purchased goods without any hassle.
Drainage is a hydro-reclamation measure to remove excess ground water.
If water does not leave the territory of the site for a long time, soil gleying occurs, if shrubs and trees quickly disappear (wet), it is urgent to take measures and drain the site.
Reasons for waterlogging the soil
There are several reasons for waterlogged soils:
- clay heavy soil structure with poor water permeability;
- an aquiclude in the form of gray-green and red-brown clays is located close to the surface;
- high occurrence of groundwater;
- technogenic factors (construction of roads, pipelines, various facilities) that impede natural drainage;
- violation water balance construction of irrigation systems;
- the landscape area is located in a lowland, a beam, a hollow. In this case big role atmospheric precipitation and the influx of water from higher places play.
What causes excess moisture in the soil
You can see the results of this phenomenon yourself - trees and shrubs are dying. Why is this happening?
- the oxygen content in the soil decreases and the carbon dioxide content increases, which leads to disruption of air exchange processes, water regime and diet in the soil;
- arises oxygen starvation root-forming layer, which leads to the death of plant roots;
- the intake of macro and microelements by plants (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, etc.) is disrupted, because excess water washes out mobile forms of elements from the soil, and they become inaccessible for assimilation;
- there is an intensive breakdown of proteins and, accordingly, the processes of decay are activated.
Plants can tell at what level groundwater occurs
Take a close look at the flora in your area. The species inhabiting it will tell you at what depth the groundwater layers are located:
- top water - in this place it is best to dig a reservoir;
- at a depth of up to 0.5 m - grow marigold, horsetail, varieties of sedge - blister, holly, fox, Langsdorf reed grass;
- at a depth of 0.5 m to 1 m - meadowsweet, canary grass,;
- from 1 m to 1.5 m - favorable conditions for meadow fescue, bluegrass, mouse pea, rank;
- from 1.5 m - wheatgrass, clover, wormwood, plantain.
What is important to know when planning site drainage
Each group of plants has its own moisture needs:
- with a groundwater depth of 0.5 to 1 m, vegetables and annual flowers can grow on high beds;
- the depth of the water reservoir up to 1.5 m is well tolerated vegetable crops, cereals, annuals and perennials (flowers), decorative and fruit bushes, trees on a dwarf rootstock;
- if groundwater at a depth of more than 2 m, you can grow fruit trees;
- optimal groundwater depth for Agriculture- from 3.5 m.
Do you need site drainage?
Record your observations at least for a while. You yourself will be able to understand how much drainage is needed.
Maybe it makes sense to simply redirect melt and sediment water along a bypass channel, and not let it flow through your site?
Perhaps it is necessary to design and equip a storm drain and improve the composition of the soil, and will this be enough?
Or is it worth making a drainage system only for fruit and ornamental trees?
The exact answer will be given to you by a specialist, whom we strongly recommend calling. But after reading this article, you will gain some awareness in this matter.
Upon completion of the technological and production tasks associated with the arrangement sewer system V apartment building, production building, as well as in private households, it is required to test the system involved using the forced spill method. This task was applied to identify possible defects or improper installation of the entire sewer part involved and the act of testing systems internal sewerage and drains will be material evidence of work on the acceptance of the facility.
Visual inspection should be accompanied by entering into the act of testing internal sewerage and drain systems according to SNIP, which is currently represented by the current regulation of the appendix of the D series, which corresponds to SP 73.13330.2012 "Internal sanitary systems of the building", recently a new one has been applied updated working version according to SNiP 3.05.01-85.
The water heater has a simpler name - a boiler. This is an ideal alternative to the lack of hot water in the house. In addition, it allows you to save money on utility bills.
Usually the boiler is installed either in the bathroom or in the kitchen. However, if we are talking about a country house, then it is possible to install the device on the roof.
Design features
The design of any water heater necessarily includes fasteners. They vary depending on where the boiler is installed - on the wall or on the floor.
With a floor device, everything is relatively simple. But mounting to the wall is carried out using steel fasteners on the back side of the tank body for heating water. In this case, you will need dowels, the dimensions of which must correspond to the mounts on the boiler. By the way, there are devices that require the removal of the back panel. The dowels are fastened with a construction gun. If there is none, then you need to drill holes for screws for fasteners using a puncher or drill.
Usually fasteners - steel hooks - are included with the water heater. Parts should only be used if they are of high quality. Their diameter should exceed one centimeter. 
The water equipment market is represented by three main types of boilers. The type of installation work will depend on their type:
- indirect heating. The peculiarity lies in the absence of heating elements, heating of the liquid is possible from external sources. The design can be both wall and floor.
- Gas storage. The liquid is in a special container, it is heated due to the fact that the gas burns. It is recommended to entrust the installation to specialists.
- Electric storage. Liquid heating is provided by heating elements at the bottom of the tank, the water temperature is regulated by a thermostat. The most popular due to the ease of installation, connection and operation.
Location selection
Regardless of where the boiler will be located - in the bathroom or in the kitchen - you should pay attention to a number of nuances:
- the device must be located near communications (water and electricity);
- installation is optimal in the sanitary compartment;
- compactness of the device in the case of a small quadrature of the room;
- the wall must withstand the potential load, not only from the device itself, but also from the water poured into it;
- humidity at the site of the potentially installed structure should not be high. Otherwise, the device will easily fail.
If the owner of the premises has chosen the bathroom as the location of the tank, he must take into account the possible inconvenience if the heater is mounted above the bathroom itself. 
How to fix the device?
Brick or block walls are considered ideal for mounting a water heater, but it is highly undesirable to mount it on a thin wall. However, mounting on other types of materials is also acceptable. The most common:
- drywall,
- tile,
- tree,
- lining,
- foam blocks,
- plaster.
Consider the installation features for each type of wall. 
Drywall
Experts consider drywall to be a capricious material and question its resistance to stress. However, there are two effective ways by which you can install a boiler in a room sheathed with drywall sheets:
- installation on reinforcement, which is laid under the sheathing material of the walls;
- installation on holes made in the wall.
Tile
Sometimes during the repair the question arises: when is it better to mount the heating tank - before laying the tiles or after. It's good to have options. What if the tiles are already installed? Qualified specialists believe that in this case three conditions must be met:
- glue evenly applied to the tile;
- tiles must be laid without voids;
- the wall must be made of solid materials that do not allow the tile to sag or stagger.
If all the requirements are met, then any water heater can be mounted on top of the tile. 
Tree
Information about mounting the tank to a wooden surface is full of contradictions. According to some sources, mounting on a tree is highly undesirable, since the wall will not be able to withstand the enormous load, which will become even greater after filling the boiler with water.
According to other sources, the installation is acceptable. True, with a caveat. Before fixing the water heater, it is important to choose a non-combustible base for the unit in accordance with fire safety rules.
clapboard
This material in this case is considered capricious. Therefore, you can not do without special conditions for the installation process. You will need two vertical beams, which must be carefully processed and painted to match the color of the lining or tank. They are thoroughly fixed, and a water heater is already hung on them. By itself, the lining is not able to withstand the weight of the boiler. 
foam concrete
You will need special fasteners such as nylon spiral dowels. If the volume of the device exceeds 100 liters, it makes sense to use metal fasteners. Two mounting options are acceptable - using metal dowels or using special or chemical anchors for foam concrete. The option using a chemical (or adhesive) anchor is considered the most reliable and modern, as well as environmentally friendly.
plaster
There are two mounting options:
- Cutting holes in the slabs for the frame (metal shaped pipes) with subsequent fixation to solid surfaces such as ceilings, floors or walls.
- The use of two metal tires 40x4, bent at right angles. They will be used as anchors. One end of each tire goes to the anchor to concrete ceilings, and the other for additional fixation - to the dowels to the wall.
Tools needed for the job
To install a water heater you will need:
- instructions describing the connection;
- pencil;
- metal hooks;
- dowels and screws;
- roulette;
- construction pistol;
- perforator or drill;
- hoses;
- network cable;
- water purification filter;
- nozzles.
Clarification regarding hoses for supplying water to the unit: better is more expensive, but more reliable. Flexible products can fail prematurely. It is desirable if the elements for connecting pipes are copper.
roma100471.ru
How to hang a water heater on the wall?
Mounting the boiler to the wall is not an easy process, requiring special knowledge and skills. You can not install a water heater on the wall to a person who does not have experience in such work. In this case, it is advisable to use the services of specialists. The article is offered to those who, having certain skills, want to learn how to hang a water heater on the wall. Here you will find all the rules and parameters that you can understand and install the equipment correctly, ensuring its safe operation.
- The boiler should be located close to electricity and water communications.
- It is advisable to mount the boiler in a plumbing cabinet, which will allow more efficient use of free space.
- Before hanging the water heater on the wall, consider leaving more space in the kitchen. free space. For this reason, for small rooms it is desirable to purchase a boiler that is compact in size.
Important! When installing a water heater in a bathroom, it should not be placed directly above the bowl, as there will be inconvenience during the operation of the device.
- Before installing the water heater, you need to check the strength of the wall. Perfect option- if the wall is made of concrete block or brick.
Important! The device itself has a fairly large mass, and if water is poured into it, the mass increases even more. The wall must withstand this load.
- Construction pistol.
- Perforator.
- Electric drill.
- It is necessary to mount the water heater on hooks with a diameter of 1 cm or more and dowels, which is due to the size and weight of the entire structure.
- If there is no construction gun, holes are drilled with an electric drill or a puncher for special mounting screws.
- If the boiler is hung on a plastered wall, 10 cm screws can be used for fastening, with a plastic part less than 8 cm.
Before fixing the water heater on a wooden wall, you need to take care of a non-combustible base for the appliance. This is required by fire safety regulations.
Important! Do not use inexpensive flexible hoses to supply water to the boiler. They often fail and need to be replaced. It is better to purchase better and more expensive materials. Details for summing pipes must be made of copper.
In addition to tools, you will need:
- Water heater.
- Metal hooks.
- Hammer drill or electric drill.
- High quality hoses.
- Dowels.
- screws.
- Scheme and instructions for connecting the device.
- Network cable.
- Filter for coarse water purification.
- A set of special nozzles.
- Construction pistol.
- Pencil.
Mounting technology
The installation algorithm is as follows:
- Choose a location suitable for the water heater.
- Prepare holes for dowels.
- Insert epoxy or cement plugs into the holes using wood or plastic inserts.
- Screw the screws into the liners, leave until completely solidified epoxy resin or cement.
- Most often, there is a special mounting plate with shaped holes at the back of the boiler. Insert dowel or screw heads into these holes and screw them into the wall.
- To make the design more reliable, screw an additional screw between the two existing ones so that the lower part of the mounting plate rests on it. This will keep her from bending over.
- Install the water heater.
- Decide on the reliability of the electrical wiring in the apartment, select the materials and thickness of the wires.
- Perform grounding. If all work is done correctly, the boiler will serve you long time.
- In addition, the set includes a protective check valve, which does not allow the outflow of water from the water heater. Also screw a safety valve onto the water inlet pipe.
Important! In this case, it should be borne in mind that the pipe for hot water is located at the top, and for cold water - at the bottom.
- Preparing a new network cable to connect to the shield.
- You need to connect the device in accordance with the colors of the braid. Yellow wire - ground, blue - working zero, brown - phase.
Important! Do not use a gas or water pipe for grounding.
If the water in the apartment is of poor quality, it is advisable to use a coarse filter. Otherwise, the device will quickly become unusable.
These basic principles of work will allow you, if you have the skills to perform similar work, to do everything with high quality. This means that the water heating equipment will work efficiently and safely. for a long time, and you will not experience discomfort due to the lack of hot water.
serviceyard.net
How to hang a BAXI water heater - Electric Plumber
In the previous articles “How to install a BAXI water heater” and “What does a BAXI boiler look like inside”, I started a story about installing a 100 liter BAXI boiler. I keep talking about further actions when installing a water heater.
How to hang a boiler on the wall
The main part of the water heaters is intended only for vertical installation. This model SV 510 is also a vertical. Therefore, there is one mounting bracket at the back of the boiler.
According to the instructions, the boiler is hung on two metal hooks with a diameter of 10 mm. I used 8mm hooks and 12mm plastic dowels.
The wall on which the boiler was hung is made of shell rock. Applied plaster about 40mm thick on top, plus tile. carrier layer the result is about 60-70 mm.
Hook hole marking
All dimensions for the holes are indicated in the instructions. But, for some reason, I like to measure everything myself. So, we transfer the markup to the wall.
In this case, I do not use the level. Tiles on the walls are laid evenly. I use it as a leveler. tile joints. The only advice - do not try to hang the water heater close to the ceiling. I always leave a gap at the top for cleaning.
Hook installation
We drill holes. First we drill the tiles. In the drill mode at low speeds, with victorious drills starting from 6 mm, I ream the tiles to the required 12 mm. Then I switch the hammer to impact and drill the wall. I'm hammering dowels.
By the way, you can read about how to drill a particularly strong tile in the article.
Using an adjustable wrench, I twist the hooks.
After screwing in the hooks, I check their level. The fact is that when you drill a wall, the drill lives according to its own laws. Might be a little crooked. That's what happened to me. The right hook turned out to be two millimeters lower. When a meter-long barrel is hung, these two millimeters will immediately come out. Someone in such cases takes and simply bends the hooks. I put in homemade bushings. I take a piece of drywall profile and cut the tape to the desired width.
Instead of a profile, you can use anything, even though tin can. The resulting tape is wound on a hook until desired thickness. Before this, I unscrew the hook one turn.
I twist the hook and hang the boiler. It is impossible to do this myself, so I involve an assistant. Horizontal slots on the bracket allow you to move the boiler left and right by a couple of centimeters.
We hang, check (you can hang and pull), step back and admire how smoothly everything has fallen.
The next step is to connect the boiler to water and electricity. But, more on that in other articles.
P.S. What if you need advice or advice?
All the best! Good luck! Sincerely yours, Vladimir Electro-Plumber.
elektrosantekhnik.ru
How to hang a water heater on drywall: 3 simple ways for self-use
The heater is installed and it's holding on
Hello. Today we will talk about how to hang a boiler on drywall. The topic is of considerable interest, since more and more various premises sheathed with plasterboard. And since the strength of this finishing material non-professionals are in doubt, a logical question arises, on what basis to carry out the installation of heavy objects, taking into account their subsequent long-term operation.
I note right away that the instruction that you will read in the framework of this article is universal, that is, it can be used both when installing boilers and when installing other items weighing over 50 kg.
General information about what and on what we will hang
Before fixing the boiler to drywall, let's decide whether it is possible to do this at all?
Domestic boilers are of two types:
- Flow heaters through which the flow of water passes and is heated;
- Accumulative heaters in which a certain volume of heated water is constantly collected.
Flow heaters are distinguished by low weight and compact dimensions. There will be no problems with the installation of such devices, since screw dowels will be enough for installation, which will hold 5-10 kg. But, flow heaters few people use because of the high consumption of electricity, and their price is high.
Traditionally, more economical in use are installed in the bathroom. storage heaters, which are a massive container filled with water. It is precisely with the installation of such equipment on the GKL that certain problems may arise.
To make it clear what we are talking about, imagine that a standard boiler with a volume of 80 liters in a filled state weighs about 100 kg. It is unlikely that any drywall will withstand such a load, fixed on 3-4 fasteners.
But it turns out that there are effective ways, using which you can install a boiler in a bathroom with walls sheathed with sheet drywall.
These methods can be roughly divided into two types:
- Mounting on the reinforcement laid under the wall cladding;
- Mounting on holes made in the draft wall.
Consider these methods in more detail, and you can choose suitable option.
Method one - mounting on a pre-installed wooden reinforcement
Embedded hardwood fastening
If you are familiar with the technology of mounting GKL on walls, you know that the supporting frame is first built, on which the sheathing is mounted directly.
Considering that the standard thickness plasterboard sheathing is 9 mm plus the thickness of the wall tiles 4 mm, the fixing surface must be reinforced. To do this, mortgages are attached to the supporting frame and to the wall, which will subsequently take on the weight of the installed boiler.
Let us consider in more detail what is the installation instruction for mortgages, through which it is possible to ensure the reliability of the installation of a heavy attachments:
- After the power frame is mounted, we determine the installation location of the water heater, so that the location of the mounting hardware falls on the perimeter of the cell between the profiles;
- In accordance with the thickness of the profile used in the assembly of the supporting frame, a board is selected (preferably hardwood) with a width of at least 100 mm;
- The board is cut into pieces equal to the width of the cell in the crate;
- The blanks are treated with antiseptic impregnations, working off or drying oil;
We apply working off or drying oil on wooden blanks from all sides in at least two layers with an interval necessary for drying each previous layer.
In the photo, mortgages installed on profiles
- The harvested lumber is attached to the wall surface at those points that, according to preliminary calculations, will not coincide with the location of the mounting lugs on the water heater body;
Fixing hardware for mounting boards are selected in accordance with the density and strength of the walls. For fastening mortgages to concrete surface the best option are anchor bolts with a length of at least 150 mm. If the density of the wall is low, I recommend installing the mortgages on studs with a through passage of the wall with washers and nuts on both sides.
- Without fail, we photograph the location of the mortgages in the wall so that later it will be easier to find them under the skin;
The place for mounting the heater is ready
- After the mortgages are fixed in the crate, the GKL is installed using standard technology, which you can find in my previous articles;
- After the wall is sheathed, tiles are laid on top of the drywall;
- Only after the tile adhesive and grout have completely dried, do we mark the points for mounting fasteners for attachments;
- We drill holes in the wall sheathing to the embedded boards;
- We screw screws into the wood, the size of which is selected in accordance with the predicted operating weight of the suspended equipment;
- The gaps around the perimeter of the screwed fasteners are sealed with grout to prevent the penetration of moisture under the skin;
- We hang a water-heating tank on the fixed fasteners.
This method is not only simple in terms of implementation, but also universal, since heating radiators, wall cabinets and other heavy objects can be hung on wooden mortgages. Depending on the type of wood from which the boards are made, mortgages can withstand the installation and long-term operation of attachments weighing up to 80 kg, which is slightly more than the weight of the boiler by 50 liters.
Method two - mounting on a pre-installed metal reinforcement
If the strength of wooden embedded elements for installing a massive boiler is insufficient, I recommend assembling metal mounts based on steel plates with a thickness of 3 mm.
It must be understood that installation, as in the previous case, is carried out before wall cladding. That is, it is advisable to install a boiler according to this method at the time when it is planned overhaul bathroom.
The instructions for performing installation work in this case are as follows:
- We weld a bolt onto a 100 × 100 mm plate, equal in length to the width of the profile, plus the thickness of drywall and tiles, plus the distance necessary to put on the mounting eyes and fix them with nuts;
On the image general form fasteners that you can make yourself
- We make 4 parts in this way according to the number of mounting eyes on the boiler;
- We attach a water heater to the wall and transfer the location of the holes in the eyes;
The figure shows the approximate location of fasteners in load-bearing frame
- According to the markings made, we attach pre-prepared fasteners to the wall, so that the welded bolt is located exactly in the center of the mark, that is, where the center of the hole in the boiler fastener will be;
- Next, the frame is sheathed with drywall, in which, during the fitting, holes are made through which the ends of the bolts can be brought out;
- A tile or other facing material is laid on top of the drywall;
Mounting lugs on the boiler body
- After graduation finishing works you can mount the boiler by putting mounting eyes on the bolts and screwing nuts of a suitable size.
Method three - fastening with a chemical anchor
If the question is how to fix the water heater to drywall, you can use embedded elements in the crate, as shown in the previous instructions. But, if you decide to hang on the wall not a small boiler, but a full-sized heater, you will need a more reliable fastening than just a screw screwed into the wood.
For installation, we need a threaded rod, a mesh sleeve and a chemical anchor. You can buy the listed materials in almost any hardware store or on the market. In some large hardware stores, you can find ready-made kits designed to install attachments through drywall.
The main advantage of this method, in comparison with the previous one, is not higher strength, but the ability to perform installation work on finished skin. That is, if the mortgages need to be fixed in the profile, then the stud can be fixed directly in the mounting hole by means of an anchor.
Installation instructions are as follows:
- We attach the water heater to the wall and mark the location of the mounting eyes;
- According to the markings made with a long drill, we drill holes through the drywall into the wall;
- Each hole made is carefully cleaned with a brush from dust;
Blow the dust out deep hole can compressor
- If a compressor is available, we blow out the hole and thus finally blow out all the dust from it;
With a vacuum cleaner, things are a little more complicated, since high suction power is needed.
- If there is no compressor, we remove dust with a powerful vacuum cleaner;
If the hole is not dust-free, the chemical anchor will not be able to properly adhere to the walls of the hole and the fastening will not provide the required reliability.
This is how the filling of the hole looks in the section of the wall, but in real conditions it will need to be felt.
- After the hole is prepared, we introduce the nozzle of the tube with chemical anchor and pump the mixture inside;
As a rule, to fill a hole up to 100 mm deep, 5-7 pulls of the trigger handle of the mounting gun are enough. After that, the nozzle of the tube must be carefully removed from the hole. You need to pull out the nozzle straight without distortion. If the tube is skewed together with the nozzle, a chemical anchor will come out.
- At the end of the hairpin we put on a mesh sleeve;
Stud with mesh sleeve
- We insert the fasteners prepared in this way into the hole and press it to the end;
- Next, carefully pull the pin out of the hole so that the sleeve remains inside;
I categorically do not recommend using any knitting needles, long screwdrivers and other improvised devices at this stage instead of a threaded stud. The fact is that our task is not just to insert the sleeve into the hole, but also to center it there. This cannot be done with small diameter objects.
- After the stud is removed, refill the hole with the chemical anchor;
- We wait 5 minutes for the mixture to settle in the hole;
On such fasteners it will be possible to hang a tank with a volume of 80 liters
- With rotational movements, we screw the hairpin into the still elastic mixture until it stops;
- In a day, the fasteners are ready and you can hang a boiler on it.
A water heater is an integral part of many lives. With it, you can always be sure that there is hot water at home. However, during installation work, a difficulty arises - how to mount the water heater on the wall? Today we will talk about this in more detail.
Mounting features
Before proceeding with the installation, it is necessary to visually and technically familiarize yourself with the device. This information can prepare you for future work, and will help you more clearly familiarize yourself with the features of fastening:
- It is recommended to locate the device taking into account future electrical wires and water supply (or with the possibility of convenient access to replenishing water manually - depends on the type of heater);
If the building project is only at the construction stage, then it is worth showing increased attention To this issue. It is better to install sockets immediately with dust protection, with the possibility of emergency shutdown when water gets into them. Water supply pipes should be installed in such a test where they can be reached and made repair work(if necessary). It is not recommended to use "flexible" pipes, they quickly become unusable, better made of copper, or "solid" plastic pipes. At the same time, it is worth showing concern about the future design and appearance apartments - this is laid during the design and at the construction stage.
- It is worth worrying about a special cabinet in which the installation will be made;
Special cabinet - the best place to install a water heater. He will be able to protect him from accidental strikes and visually "hide" him from prying eyes. It is recommended to install it in a special place. It is not difficult to make a wardrobe, but it is worth worrying about this feature in advance.
- It is necessary to make sure that the walls are sufficiently strong and that the humidity level is satisfactory.
Exist Various types walls (we will talk about this a little later), but you need to initially estimate that the weight of the heater will be supported by the wall. It is important to have an idea about its strength - it must be sufficient to withstand given weight(and the weight of future heating systems). Humidity can destroy the fasteners and make the internal parts of the heating elements unusable, which is unacceptable, since the humidity level must be at a satisfactory level. If the humidity is too high, it is recommended to consider changing the mounting location to a more suitable one.
These features are important information that you should have on your pencil, which will allow you to install correctly and reliably!
Necessary parts, tools
For fastening, you need a small set of tools, parts:
- Construction pistol;
- Perforator;
- Electric drill;
- Steel hooks (10 mm);
- Dowels.
How to fix - instruction
Ready! The water heater is fixed!
How to attach to walls of different materials
Because different houses have different kind walls, you should know about the features of fastening to certain, the most common types of materials.
Drywall
Drywall has a soft structure, which makes this type of wall the most difficult type to fix. It is better to use metal pads for the dowel, which increase the pressure area on the wall. Such overlays are sold at any hardware store, if desired, they can be made by yourself from thin sheet metal.
Heavy loads (more than 100 kilograms) should not be attached to drywall.
foam concrete
To fix dowels in foam concrete, it is better to use their nylon counterparts, which are in the form of spirals. Their purpose is to work with foam concrete walls. They will be able to take into account the features of the wall and give maximum grip.
Concrete
For fastening to concrete, advice is applicable, as for foam concrete, with one condition that instead of nylon dowels, it is better to initially install metal dowels, since concrete does not allow their further replacement with another type of dowel. Also, concrete creates a lot of noise (during operation) if the installation work takes place in high-rise buildings, then try to choose a time for work when this noise will not bring inconvenience.
