Planting a garden rose. Growing roses in open ground - the necessary information. Prevention from diseases and pests when growing a park rose
- Kind: rosaceous
- Flowering period: June July August September
- Height: 30-300cm
- Color: white, cream, yellow, pink, orange, red, wine red
- perennial
- hibernates
- sun-loving
- moisture-loving
If the lion is the king of animals, then the rose is the absolute queen of the garden. This plant has long been considered an object of admiration and worship. No wonder it was chosen as a symbol of love. The first mention of the rose can be found in the legends of the ancient Hindus. legends about beautiful flower found in the annals of ancient Iran. Charming according to legend white rose with very sharp thorns Allah himself created. She was supposed to become the mistress of flowers instead of the magnificent, but very lazy Lotus. Today, this plant can become a real decoration for your gardens, but for this you need to learn how to choose and plant a seedling, what is the correct care for roses.
Planting and caring for roses is not as difficult as it seems. Important to follow simple rules, and your garden will be filled with magnificent fragrant bushes.
Selecting and maintaining seedlings
In order to initially ensure success in growing roses, it is necessary to purchase high-quality planting material. It is better to choose plants, root system which will be closed. When planting such a seedling, the ground around the root must be preserved.
Rose seedlings are best chosen with a closed root system: they take root more easily at the planting site and get sick less.
Often in modern supermarkets you can see imported roses with a closed root system, which are sold in advance. Several seedlings can be stored in the refrigerator on the bottom shelf at a temperature of 0 to +5°C. During storage, you will have to regularly monitor the condition of the substrate around the rhizome. It should not dry out completely, but too much moisture is also harmful for it.
Advice! A solution of root or heteroauxin promotes root growth, so you can water seedlings with it several times.
When should roses be planted?
Most roses are recommended for autumn planting. The preferred work period starts in mid-September and ends in mid-October. An earlier planting time is undesirable due to the fact that the rose can give fresh shoots in the warmth, which will not have time to get stronger and freeze in winter. Late planting is also dangerous, because the plant must take root before frost.
Most roses are planted in autumn. This is also convenient because when buying planting material on the market, you can see the flower itself
Planting flowers in May. Helpful Hints gardeners and a calendar of May plantings:
Decide on a place to land
The place for planting roses should be sunny. In the shade, roses can get bored, they stop flowering, dark spots appear on the leaves of plants, and blind shoots form. The plant can be affected by powdery mildew. Choose an area that is ventilated, but has protection from strong northerly winds.
Roses decorate the garden, regardless of their location, but the plants themselves for successful growth and flowering needs conditions
Roses have no special preferences in terms of soil. They are not as capricious as it may seem. Any soil is suitable for them, except for heavy clay and light sandy loam. The landing site should not be located where groundwater comes close to the surface of the earth.
The process of planting roses
Planting pits need to be dug deep and wide enough for the roots of the plant to be spacious. If the soil is fertile, then half a meter of depth and the same width will be sufficient. For clay soil with the same width of the pit, 60-70 cm should be dug in depth.
It is necessary to prepare a nutrient mixture for backfilling in a pit. It contains humus or compost, rotted manure and soil. Fertilizers should not come into contact with the roots of the plant, so we sprinkle them with a layer of soil.
The soil or substrate that covers the roots of the plant must be preserved: the rose quickly adapts to new living conditions
Pour water into the hole before planting the seedling so that it is absorbed. If the root system of the rose is closed, it is not necessary to free the root from the ground. If the root is free, it must be cut to a third of the length and soaked in plain water or a root growth stimulator for two hours.
Shoots should also be cut:
- in polyanthus and hybrid tea roses so that 2-3 buds remain on each of the shoots;
- leave 3-4 buds for floribunda roses;
- in park roses, the shoots are shortened by 10-15 cm;
- only cuts of the roots are cut off (updated, not shortened).
The seedling should be sprinkled with earth so that the grafting site is about 5 cm below the ground. Wax should be removed from the place of deepening, if any. The earth should be compacted and watered again. In this way, air that could remain around the roots is removed, and the closest contact between the plant and the soil is achieved. You can spud a seedling by about 10-15 cm. The resulting hill should be removed in two weeks - the time during which the seedling should take root.
Reproduction of the queen of the garden
There are not so many ways to propagate roses. But the desire to have as many of these undeniably beautiful and diverse plants as possible on the site is so great that gardeners strive to master them all and to the maximum extent. Here is a list of ways to propagate a rose:
- Budding. On the bark of the plant stem, close to the ground level, a T-shaped incision is made, into which the bud of the cultivated variety is inserted, after which it is fixed with a film. The scion can use the developed root system of the stock. Such an operation is not difficult, but requires some experience.
- Seeds. This method is used extremely rarely due to the fact that the result has to wait a long time, and there is no certainty that it will be positive. And the germination of rose seeds leaves much to be desired.
- Layering. Shrub and climbing roses are propagated this way because they have long and strong stems. The shoot of the plant in the lower part is cut for 8 cm, a sliver or match is inserted into the cut. The cut part of the shoot is placed in the ground and fixed, and its free tip is tied to a peg. The rooted shoot is cut off from the parent bush.
- Cuttings. The method is good because roses rooted in this way will not give wild shoots. The cutting is part of a strong shoot. It is cut next to the leaf bud, and germinated using root stimulants. After the appearance of the root, the rose can be planted in the ground.
It is good to use the layering method only for propagating plants with long stems, which are used to create a new one. rose bush
Rules for caring for a garden rose
For the rose to bloom and delight its owners long years, you should pay attention to her, do not forget to feed her and protect her from viral diseases. Do not be afraid of difficulties: growing in the garden is not as difficult as it seems.
Plant nutrition
Manure is a natural fertilizer and preference should, of course, be given to it. The best horse manure is considered to be at least six months old. chicken and pig manure, especially when fresh, can seriously harm the plant: it is sour and can simply burn young shoots. Fresh manure also has a bad effect on the soil, because it blocks nitrogen.
Manure is a natural fertilizer, therefore the most acceptable. When choosing top dressing, preference should be given to rotted horse manure or mullein.
During the formation of buds, you need to feed the plant with a solution of calcium nitrate at the rate of 1 tbsp. for 10 liters of water. At the time of active growth and development of the plant, it should be watered every 10-15 days with herbal infusion, a solution of mineral fertilizers, chicken manure or infused mullein. In order for the top dressing to be better perceived by the plant, it is better to apply the same mineral fertilizers in dissolved form and after the next watering. When the first half of summer is already behind, that is, in the second part of July, rose feeding stops. The plant is getting ready for winter.
Plants can also survive stress. It is in this state that they are in a period of extreme heat, cold or prolonged rains. To make it easier for roses to overcome difficult times in their lives, you need to spray them with zircon, epin, ecosil or sodium humate. Overfed roses produce abundant greenery, but bloom very sparingly.
The order of watering the plant
Roses should be watered no more than once a week. If the summer is hot, then the frequency of watering can be doubled. Irrigation rate - a bucket of warm water for each bush. It is necessary to pour water under the root, trying not to get on the foliage. Water should penetrate the soil to a depth of at least 20-30cm. If watering roses is shallow, superficial roots can form, which are easily damaged.
A rose in the dew is a magnificent sight, but nature decreed that the dew disappears with the first rays of the sun, otherwise its drops, like magnifying glasses, would amplify the energy of the sun and burn the petals: you need to water the roses at the root
If there is no one to water the roses for a long time (more than a week), the soil at the base of the plant should be covered with humus, mowed grass or tree bark. Such a measure will not only retain moisture at the roots, but also prevent the growth of weeds.
With a lack of moisture, the flowers of the plant may become small, but roses should not be poured either: this can lead to a reduction in oxygen supply to the roots. As a result, the leaves of the plant will turn yellow. To prevent this from happening, do not forget to loosen the soil after watering.
Certainly, proper feeding and watering are important, but the process of caring for a garden rose is not limited to this. One of the most unpleasant diseases for garden roses is powdery mildew. Plants will help take care of the health in advance preventive measures. The rose must be sprayed directly on the leaves with a solution of ordinary baking soda at the rate of 40g of soda per liter of water. This must be done from spring 2-3 times a week, as well as at the beginning of summer.
Plants, like all living things on earth, can get sick. These are not random spots or traces of fertilizers. This is powdery mildew, which is easier to prevent than to treat.
Aphids are a big nuisance for roses. But you can overcome it. To do this, boil a bucket of water, put a piece of grated laundry soap and a couple of branches of wormwood, after which they cook for 10-15 minutes. A cooled and filtered solution of roses is sprayed. A week later, the procedure should be repeated. If the aphid stubbornly does not want to leave the plant, you will have to use a systemic poison, for example, Aktara.
Aphids will not appear on roses at all if you plant lavender or nasturtium under them. And calendula and marigolds will help get rid of beetles. By the way, onion and garlic will add health to roses, like people. In their environment, plants become more fragrant and get sick less.
Spots on the leaves, cracks in the stems and the cessation of bud development indicate the disease. Affected branches should be removed. Prepare an infusion of horsetail, wormwood and nettle, which is sprayed on the rose.
A few words about rose pruning
Plant shoots growing inward should be cut off. This stimulates the emergence of young shoots and active flowering. Withering flowers need to be removed, then the saved forces of the plant will be directed to a new wave of flowering, which will be more abundant.
Just look how beautiful! But all this splendor can be grown with your own hands. If someone has succeeded, you will definitely succeed too.
There are many pruning rules and this topic is undoubtedly worth it to be devoted to.
Roses are noble ornamental plants that have been prized for centuries. They are planted in palace gardens, parks and household plots, and love for the aroma, appearance, graceful beauty, especially appreciated by women. Thanks to its many virtues, many people want to plant a garden rose. Unfortunately, the advantages they offer us come at a price.
Roses are quite demanding plants that are generously grateful for the effort and money invested in caring for them. These are exquisite plants, the richness of which tempts each of us to find our favorite variety. In the article below, we will present proven varieties, what a rose looks like, care and cultivation in the garden so that it grows healthy, beautiful.
Growing garden roses
There are many varieties of roses in the world. Their classification covers 5 groups, which differ in terms of decorative parameters:
- large-flowered;
- multicolor;
- park;
- ground cover;
- climbing.
You can also select a group of historical roses and wild ones.
Photo. Beautiful climbing roses
Photo. large-flowered roses
Choosing a place to land
First of all, you need to find out where it is better to plant roses on the site in order to provide them with the best soil and climatic conditions. More precisely, the optimal conditions are described in the instructions for the cultivation of a particular variety. However, there are also general recommendations.
- Rose loves sunny places. At the same time, it is not necessary that it be lit all day and be constantly under the scorching rays of the sun, but flowers will not bloom in the shade.
- The soil should be well permeable, fertile, preferably sandy.
- Plants require some space to ventilate their planting site, this will protect them from fungal diseases.
- Because of their seasonal decorativeness, they are best paired with evergreens that will provide a presentable green backdrop.
Photo. In a sunny place, roses will bloom profusely
When is the best time to plant roses?
As you know, many plants are best planted during the dormant period. When to plant roses in autumn or spring? This plant is best planted at the turn of October and November, but before the first frost. Another optimal time planting is the end of March - the beginning of April.
You can purchase ordinary seedlings with a normal root system and with a lump of substrate, which will allow you not to damage the roots when planting. Plants bought in pots are not as demanding in terms of planting time as traditional seedlings, they can be planted even in summer.
How to plant roses?
- We moisten the root block. At the bare root system, we cut the roots, significantly reducing them - up to 20 cm in length.
- We are preparing a hole - you can add fertile soil.
- We plant the plant, evenly distribute the roots, check its vertical position.
- Gradually sprinkle the plant with earth, water it, check its location and water it again. Repeat the steps several times until the hole is filled.
- We pour a mound that helps to keep water within reach of the roots.
How to prune roses?
Roses are best pruned in the spring, then we can assess how much damage is caused by winter frosts, if any. In addition, plants that are not pruned before winter tolerate low temperatures better.
Large-flowered and multi-colored varieties should be cut at a height of 20 cm above the ground, and the remaining varieties are cut as needed - removing frozen and diseased shoots.
How to prune a rose after flowering? You can also prune after flowering, removing dried flowers to encourage new blooms.
Photo. Trimming off faded flowers enhances flowering
Care, pest and disease control
Roses require a fertile substrate - so they must be fertilized, preferably twice a year - in early spring, and again when in bloom to ensure abundant blooms. There are many fertilizers for roses on the market, which affect not only abundant flowering, but also active growth, beautiful green color leaves. healthy plants less susceptible to disease.
Roses are most often affected by leaf rust and other fungal diseases. They are also often affected by aphids. Therefore, at the beginning growing season it is advisable to spray them with special chemicals prophylactically, carefully observe and respond to any changes in the condition of the plants.
If it is a grafted variety, the rootstock, a wild rose that often appears at ground level, should be cut regularly as it can drown out the grafted part.
Growing roses in the garden, video
Preparing roses for winter
This plant is sensitive to frost, so we must take care of it in winter. Before frost, the base of the bush should be especially well protected by covering this area with bark or other material for insulation. Grafted forms on stems, or climbing roses or large bushes, can be protected with agrofibre and straw "sheaves". They are not only effective in winter, but also quite attractive.
Rose varieties
There is a huge variety of these plants. Consider the most popular varieties.
large-flowered roses
They have the highest decorative qualities. These are solitary magnificent flowers, blooming on a straight stem. Often varieties of large-flowered roses have a wonderful aroma.
The following large-flowered varieties are also known:
- white and cream - "Pascal", "Mounte Shasta", "Papt John XXIII";
- red - "Mr. Lincoln", "Dame de Coeur" (Lady of the Heart), "Papa Mayland";
- two-color - "Kronenburg", "Neue Revue", "Die Welt";
- purple - "Blue Moon", "Charles de Gaulle";
- orange - "Flora Danica", "Ave Maria", "Lady";
- yellow - "Mir", "Casanova", "Landora".
multicolor roses
Often used in home gardens and increasingly in urban greens. The flowers are smaller than the large-flowered species, but they are more numerous, forming massive clusters on the shoots. The flowers are often fragrant, bloom very profusely and repeat bloom.
Popular varieties:
The following multi-flowered varieties are also known:
- white and creamy - "Swany", "Schneewittchen";
- red - "Pushta", "Lily Marlene", "Nina Weibull";
- orange - "Samba", "Rumba";
- pink - "Queen Elizabeth", "Kalinka", Bonica 80;
- yellow - Frisia, All Gold, Marselisborg.
ground cover roses
As the name suggests, they quickly cover the soil with shoots. This is a low, very stable group, does not freeze, does not get sick, does not require care. Roses are decorative, thanks to the abundant, slightly more delicate flowers which look very natural and charming.
Popular varieties are:
The following ground cover varieties are also known:
- white - "Snow Ballet";
- red - "Mercury 2000";
- pink - Sommerwind, Veneda;
- yellow - "Sommermond".
Ground cover roses are easier to care for, grow easily and require less attention than varieties of other groups. The plants are resistant to frost, so, unlike other garden roses, they do not need to be protected from it.
Shrubs do not require heavy pruning - only diseased and damaged shoots should be removed every spring - or wilted flowers should be removed (numerous coral fruits adorn the bush in autumn). In addition, they are generally more disease resistant than other varieties.
Landing. Seedlings are planted in spring or autumn in dug up soil, to which manure or compost (4-8 kg / m²) is added. You can also add fertilizer for roses (recommended by the manufacturer). Most varieties in the garden are planted at 4 pieces/m², but there are also stronger varieties that need 2 pieces/m² (for example, Max Graf, Weisse Immensee) and weaker varieties that should be planted at 5 -6 pieces / m² (for example, "Beautiful Fairy", "Fairy").
climbing roses
This group is growing faster and stronger. Climbing varieties require reliable support in the form of supports to which shoots are attached. These varieties often repeat flowering and are very fragrant.
Varieties worth noting:
The following popular climbing varieties are also known:
- white - "Snow White", "Elf";
- red - "Flammentanz", "Baikal", "Amadeus", "Dortmund";
- pink - " A new dawn”,“ American Pillar ”;
- yellow - "Golden rain", "Goldstern".
These varieties belong to the group that requires more time and patience. To get the effect of a flowering wall, sometimes you have to wait 3-4 years or even longer. Plants can climb a pergola or tree by clinging to the thorns, however, sometimes they need help in the form of a garter to a support.
Climbing varieties tend to have smaller flowers than large-flowered varieties, but newer varieties are also quite big flowers. The range has recently expanded significantly, so it's easy to find an option in almost any color.
Climbing varieties are less demanding on soil and relatively resistant to frost, but more vulnerable to pest damage on leaves and shoots. Climbing varieties are best planted with an existing support such as a trellis or pergola. They can also be planted in wooden pot with a lattice, in which they will be presented very exquisitely.
It is very important to carry out the correct and timely pruning. For varieties that bloom once a season, pruning should be done only after the shoots have faded.
Hard-shooting Ramblers, characterized by smaller flowers, are pruned every year, removing the whitened shoots and the whole mass of thin, long branches growing at the base of the bush. To speed up the growth of the bush, we can cut only half of the two-year-old shoots that will fill in the gaps. Heavy pruning in the lower parts of the bush is especially necessary for some varieties (for example, Dorothy Perkins), because the plants are easily attacked. powdery mildew- a disease of roses that develops when the leaves remain wet for a long time.
Varieties of climbing roses that repeat bloom do not require as much pruning. It is enough to remove the oldest or too thin shoots that thicken the crown every 2 or 3 years. Frozen stems or damaged by diseases should be removed every spring.
park roses
This is the last group, which is also called cultural rose hips. These varieties are bush-shaped, characterized by high resistance and low maintenance requirements. The flowers are very attractive, in groups or solitary, usually in warm colours. Very often used on open lawns or in urban areas.
The following varieties are distinguished in this group:
The following park varieties are also known:
- white - "White Grootendorst";
- red - "Grand Hotel", "Kordes Brillant";
- pink - "Pink Grotendorst", "Rosary Yutersen";
- yellow - "Lichtkönigin Lucia", "Westerland", "Persian yellow".
Roses are one of the most noble plants. Great care and planting requirements are paid off by its beautiful appearance and pleasant aroma. For centuries, they have been used in gardens, where they have become a real decoration of the landscape.
The recognized queen of flowers, the fragrant rose is not too difficult to breed in gardens. However, it is necessary to follow the key rules for caring for her, starting with the choice of planting material.
Viable shoots of roses can be obtained in several ways:
Landing
In order for garden roses to give strong shoots covered with healthy foliage and bloom profusely, you need to choose the optimal location for them:
- The place where a beautiful bush will grow should be well lit and securely sheltered from the harsh north wind.
- The soil will need drained, fertile, neutral, medium density - neither too light sandy nor compacted clay soils will do. The groundwater level should also not be high.
A landing pit in a selected location with suitable soil is prepared as follows:
- The soil is taken out a meter deep. The diameter of the pit is at least half a meter.
- At the bottom is placed drainage layer crushed stone, pebbles or ceramic batt.
- Then a nutrient layer of humus and / or well-rotted manure mixed with the soil is laid.
- On top is a layer of soil that will temporarily protect the developing roots of the rose from direct contact with concentrated fertilizers.
- The root system of the seedling is placed on the soil layer. If it is in the substrate, it is preserved. Unprotected roots are pruned by about a third and kept for up to two hours in water or in a solution of a root formation stimulator before planting.
- Fill the planting hole with soil so that the grafting site is five centimeters below the soil level.
- The earth is rammed, and then well watered - no less than a bucket of water. Tampering and watering create maximum contact of the root system with the soil. As a result, the growth of new roots is accelerated, and after them, young shoots.
Video - How to plant a rose. All stages of landing
Watering
Beautiful roses are moisture-loving, but waterlogging does not benefit them.
IN middle lane if the summer did not turn out to be dry, it is enough in the morning or evening time water the bushes once a week. Adult roses will require a bucket of water for each plant, growing up half the dose is enough. If hot weather is established, the frequency of watering is increased up to daily.
It is better to use soft water, without excess salts - well, rain, well-settled tap water. In any case, watering with cold water is unacceptable.
The watered earth is loosened to provide the root system with air.
So that the soil does not lose moisture, its surface is mulched with chopped bark, hay, compost.
top dressing
Mineral and organic complexes are used to feed roses, and they alternate depending on the season:
- In spring, rose bushes are fed twice with full mineral fertilizer containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, at the rate of 30 g per plant. The first feeding is carried out with the awakening of the kidneys and the beginning of the growth of shoots, the second - with the formation of the first buds.
- In summer, during the period of intensive vegetation and abundant flowering, three to four times alternate complex mineral top dressing with organic - a solution of 2 kg. mullein in a bucket of water. Under each bush you need to apply half a bucket of such fertilizer. The last top dressing occurs in August and contains only potassium and phosphorus components.
pruning
Purchased seedlings, as a rule, are grafted plants, the growth and resistance of which is ensured by a viable and hardy wild rose. This powerful base most often stubbornly produces its own shoots, which must be tracked and cut mercilessly throughout the growing season.
Pruning your own stems of varietal roses can be of three degrees:
- Up to four buds from the base of the shoot. It is used for spring seedlings, rejuvenation of old plants and as a last shock therapy for underdeveloped bushes.
- Up to seven buds from the base. By shortening the stems in this way, they get strong young growth and abundant flowering of the bush.
- Affecting only the ends of the stems. This method is used as a light shaping agent that stimulates flowering.
In addition, pruning roses has its own seasonal specifics:
- In the spring, after liberation from winter shelter, weak, dead, thickening shoots are removed.
- In summer, gentle pruning is carried out, removing wilted flowers and inflorescences to the first viable bud.
- In autumn, in the middle lane, shoots are shortened to the height of a winter shelter. In warmer climates, serious autumn pruning do not carry out.
Graft
You can propagate roses in your own garden by grafting tender beautiful varieties on strong shoots of wild rose grown from seeds.
To do this, choose a sleeping bud of an already faded rose, cut it off with a small piece of the stem, remove the bark and introduce this graft into a T-shaped incision on the stem of the wild rose. The place of vaccination is wrapped plastic tape, completely cut off the rosehip shoots located above and, having gained patience, wait for the scion to grow together with the stock, as a rule, until next autumn.
Disease protection
With unfavorable weather conditions, inappropriate place of cultivation, thickened planting of roses are affected by a variety of infections.
| Disease | Description of the affected plant | Image | Prevention and treatment |
|---|---|---|---|
| On the leaves - dark, with purple tint spots with a clear border. Affected foliage quickly turns yellow and dies. | Spraying with Bordeaux liquid, infusions of nettle and / or horsetail. | ||
| The leaves are covered with whitish small grains of easily erasable plaque. | Pruning thickening shoots, spraying with a one percent solution of Bordeaux mixture. |
||
| brown, brown, yellow spots on foliage. | Spraying with a solution blue vitriol with soap, Bordeaux liquid. |
||
| The outer side of the leaves is covered with red-brown spots, and a grayish coating forms on their inner side, which cannot be erased. | Avoid getting water on the leaves. Spray with infusions of horsetail, nettle, sow thistle, ash solution. Strengthen the potassium component in the root dressing. | ||
| Zones of intensive growth - the ends of the shoots and buds - covered with mold gray color. Affected areas quickly dry out and fall off. | Fertilizing with manganese, spraying with one percent Bordeaux liquid. |
Pest control
Garden roses are attacked by specialized "rose" insects:
- Aphids. They settle on young shoots, occupy the lower parts of the leaves. You can try to get rid of this small fry with the help of wormwood infusion or fermented nettle solution. Extensive colonies will destroy only the appropriate insecticide.
- Leafhoppers. They also inhabit the lower surfaces of leaves. Small whitish spots appear on the outer side of the leaf plate. You can eliminate leafhoppers with a solution of laundry soap.
- Spider mites. Willingly breed in heat and dryness, braiding the lower surfaces of the leaves with the thinnest cobweb. Severely affected foliage is removed, the plant is sprayed with garlic or tobacco infusion. Yarrow and horsetail also help.
- Leaf roller. These insects lay their eggs on the leaves in such a way that the developing larvae wrap the leaf blade into a tight tube. Such formations must be removed and the rose sprayed with an insecticidal preparation.
- Sawflies. Settle the larvae inside the shoots. As a result, holes are formed in the stems. Affected areas are subject to immediate removal and destruction. For preventive purposes, rose bushes are sprayed with infusion of wormwood.
Shelter for the winter
In the middle lane, most varietal roses need winter shelter, which, on the one hand, will reliably protect against frost, and on the other hand, eliminate excess moisture.
The optimal covering material is specialized non-woven fabrics - lutrasil, agrotex, spunbond. Preparation for winter begins in October, with pruning of unripened shoots. With the approach of the first frosts, the stems are bent to the ground and an arc structure is built above them or installed wooden frame to guarantee the necessary winter roses air layer. It is best to put a strong plastic mesh on the frame structure, which will protect the shelter from sagging under the snow, and then, on top of the mesh, arrange a two-layer non-woven coating and securely fix its edges to the soil.
Overwintered roses are unpacked in March-April, after thawing the soil to a depth of 20 cm, in cloudy weather, which excludes burns on those who have become unaccustomed to sunlight plants.
Video - How to properly cover roses for the winter
Calendar of works in the rose garden
By season, rose care is distributed as follows:
| Season | Actions |
|---|---|
| Spring | Transplantation, preventive spraying with Bordeaux liquid, sanitary and stimulating pruning, complex mineral dressing. |
| Summer | Watering, weeding, mineral and organic fertilizing, loosening, removal of wilted inflorescences, disease prevention, pest control. |
| Autumn | Loosening, weeding, preventive "Bordeaux" spraying, pre-winter pruning, hilling. |
| Winter | Protection of bushes from rodents, sprinkling of shelters with snow. |
Timely complete care provide strong growth and lush bloom garden roses of the most exquisite varieties.
The rose is a noble flower that can brighten any garden, but it requires the right care. To begin with, it is worth considering a little more in detail the process of planting this plant. It's actually not as complicated as it might seem. About the intricacies of planting a rose and caring for it in open ground- later in the article.
It is best to plant only high-quality roses, and, therefore, you need to choose the right planting material. It is advisable to select plants with a closed root system. You can buy rose seedlings today at different places, for example, in the market, in the online store. Do not believe the photo that is attached to the seedling. So, the photo may show a rose of an unusual lilac color, but in reality it will grow an ordinary red one. In addition, it is not known under what conditions the seedlings were stored and how they were grafted. It is best to purchase them in a special nursery where you can see the roses live. Seedlings can be sold in three types: in containers, with an open root system or with a clod of earth wrapped in black plastic bag. Of these options, those that were purchased in a container take root best. In mid-May or summer, it is already better to buy roses in a pot. When choosing a seedling, you should pay attention to its aerial part. Be sure to read the label of the plant. If it has an ADR mark on it, then this indicates that this variety is frost-resistant and resistant to various ailments. It is these plants that are most suitable for growing on the site. How to plant roses
It is important to choose the right landing time. Consider first planting roses in the spring and caring for them. So, during this period in the middle lane it is better to plant these plants when the soil warms up to at least +10 degrees. Usually such conditions are formed in late April or early May. Usually planted in spring standard roses. However, most varieties are best planted in the fall. It is recommended to start work around mid-September, and finish no later than mid-October. If you plant roses earlier, then very weak shoots may appear that will freeze in winter. Late landing is also dangerous, because. the plant will not have time to take root before the onset of frost. As for the landing site, it should be sunny. In the shade, roses may stop blooming, and dark spots will appear on the leaves. In addition, the site should be well ventilated, but at the same time there should be protection from strong gusts of wind. But roses have no special preferences for the soil. So, they can grow without any problems on any soil, with the exception of heavy clay and light sandy loam. It is important that the landing site is not located where the groundwater is close to the surface of the earth.
To plant a seedling, you will need to dig a hole, the size of which should be sufficient for the roots to be spacious. In addition, the depth of the hole depends on the quality of the soil. So, if for landing on fertile soil enough depth and width of 0.6 m, then on clay soil you will have to make a hole with a depth and width of at least 0.7 m. A nutrient mixture will be poured into the finished hole, which must be prepared in advance. It contains in its composition humus or compost, as well as rotted manure. Before fertilizing, the roots of the seedling should be sprinkled with earth. Before planting seedlings, a small amount of water is poured into the pit. If the root system of the planted rose is closed, then the roots do not need to be cleaned from the ground. The root rod is cut to about 1/3 of the length, and soaked in water for about a couple of hours. You need to cut more and shoots. At different varieties it is done differently. So, let's talk a little about hybrid tea roses, planting and caring for them. Plants of these varieties are pruned so that a couple of buds remain on each shoot. In park crops, when pruning, the shoots are shortened by about 100-150 mm. In floribunda roses, no more than three buds are left on the shoot. In ground cover varieties, the roots are usually cut off. Seedlings should be sprinkled in such a way that the grafting site is approximately 50 mm above the ground. If there is wax at the place of burial, then it should be removed. The earth needs to be compacted and watered. This will remove the remaining air and thereby create close contact between the soil and the roots of the plant. The seedling still needs to be spudded. After about a couple of weeks, a hill of soil from above needs to be removed. Rose Care Rules
Rose care includes loosening the soil, fertilizing, weeding, watering, disease and pest control, as well as pruning and shaping the bush. In order for the flowers to grow and develop without problems, they need to be periodically fed with fertilizers. The first top dressing is best done in the spring, after the appearance of the kidneys, and the second - in July. At the end of summer, it is better not to fertilize so that new weak shoots do not appear that will not survive the winter. Do not apply too much fertilizer. Otherwise, unpredictable reactions may occur. In particular, an excess of fertilizer can lead to the cessation of flowering. A couple of years after planting in early spring, rotted manure or compost should be applied. Pruning is usually done in early spring, while the buds are not active. Weak and diseased stems, as well as shoots, should be removed. This must be done in order for the rose bush to develop correctly. In practice, we use Various types pruning. So, with weak pruning, 10 buds should be left on each stem, with moderate pruning, 4-7 buds, and with strong pruning, most of the shoot is removed so that no more than 3 buds remain. The latter option is often required after a bad winter, which will allow you to quickly update the rose bush. So that the bark is not damaged during pruning, the tool must be sharp enough, and the wounds should be covered with garden pitch. Closer to winter, you should think about how to cover the rose bushes. To date, some types of these flowers are able to overwinter without shelters, but still you should not count on it. To warm the culture, you should choose the optimal time. This is usually done in early November. It is not worth covering early. this can harm the roots. Some gardeners wrap their rose bushes too tightly, which is a mistake because this can lead to death due to damping off. Roses do not need to be covered with branches or spruce branches. It is best to insulate with peat, but if you did not find it, then you can cover it with loose earth. In the third decade of March, insulation can be removed, and after another week it is recommended to do the first top dressing. During the season, flowers need to be sprayed three times with special means that allow you to fight fungal diseases, as well as pests and rust. Most varieties of roses are grafted. This is done in order to improve the plant's immunity to fungal infections. In some cases, overgrowth may appear. This is the name of the branches that extend from the root rod below the grafting site. They are called wild. Leaves usually appear on them like those of a wild rose, i.e. small and light. Therefore, they stand out strongly from the general background. Wildlife must be fought. The fact is that such shoots not only spoil the appearance of the bush, but also take a lot of nutrients in healthy branches, which, in turn, makes the bush weak. To eradicate wild shoots, they do the following: they dig out the place where such an escape appeared, and cut it off at the root. If you cut off only the above-ground part of the shoot, then a few more buds may appear, which will cause even more wild shoots to grow. Rules for watering roses
This noble culture is recommended to be watered no more than once a week. If the summer turned out to be hot, then it will need to be watered twice a week. It is enough to pour no more than one bucket of water on each bush, and the water should be warm. It should penetrate into the soil at least to a depth of 200-300 mm. If watering roses is shallow, then roots can crawl out to the surface, which can easily be damaged. If you know that roses will not be watered for a long time, for example, due to departure, then it is recommended to cover the soil at the base with humus, mowed grass. This will reduce the evaporation of moisture from the roots. If there is not enough moisture, the flowers of the plant may grow small and weak, and excess moisture can lead to oxygen starvation, because of which the leaves usually turn yellow. To prevent this, it is recommended to loosen the soil after watering. Culture varietiesTo date, there are so many varieties of this culture that it is pointless to list them all. About 200 new varieties of these flowers appear annually. All varieties can be divided into two groups:
Let's take a closer look at their description. So, the first group includes varieties that grow on open areas and do not require shelter. They can endure winter light protection. This group includes frost-resistant species. As for the group of garden roses, they were all bred through selection. They are grown with the active use of agrotechnical devices. Roses that belong to this group are quite delicate and must be properly protected for the winter. To date, more than 20 thousand varieties of this group are grown. The most popular are groups of climbing and semi-climbing roses, as well as flight and Kordes roses. Climbing roses: planting and care
This group of roses should be told a little more. It's about about climbing varieties. To date, they are considered the most popular. Varieties of this group appeared as a result of crossing several plant species. So, when breeding, the Japanese Vihura rose, the multiflora rose, as well as hybrid tea roses were crossed. Many varieties of climbing roses are actively used in landscape design, in particular, when creating garden and park compositions. Important feature- these varieties begin to bloom only in the second year after planting.
Roses planting and care: photo
Rose planting and care: video |
Flowers are a living art and the rose is the queen of flowers. Its aroma and variety of forms of inflorescences awaken in us all the most tender and beautiful. Many would like to have a rose bush in their area, they look with envy at how these queens shine with their neighbors, but they are afraid of “difficulties” and leave their hopes of having such a beauty in their dreams. In fact, in growing roses, the most important secrets are desire and courage. What should be considered when planting a rose bush? Let's find out.
Rose Grace by David Austin. © David Austin Content:
Choosing a place and preparing the soil for planting roses
For roses, open, well-lit areas protected from the wind are preferred. Before planting, it is necessary to prepare the soil well. The soil is considered well prepared if it contains enough nutrients, humus and is free of pests. Before planting roses, the site is planned, divided into quarters, the planting material is sorted by variety, and a planting tool is prepared.
When to plant roses?
You can have excellent planting material, prepare the soil well and even take good care of roses, but if they are planted incorrectly, the viability and productivity of the bushes, the quality of the flowers will be much lower than with proper fit. The main task of planting is to ensure full survival. The timing of planting roses is determined climatic conditions terrain. You can plant roses in spring and autumn. Autumn planting pays off when protecting plants from cold and moisture. Roses planted at this time develop much better than those planted in spring.
Soak the roots of roses in a nutrient solution. © David Austin The best planting time - before the onset of permanent frosts - guarantees the survival of the roots. Under favorable conditions, 10-12 days after planting roses in autumn, small young white roots form on the roots, which, before the onset of frost, have time to harden and turn brown, that is, they take the form of active growth root hairs. In this form, the bushes winter well, and in the spring both the root and above-ground parts of the plants immediately begin to develop.
Sometimes in the south, the buds of newly planted roses begin to sprout in autumn. This should not be feared. In this case, the growing green shoot is pinched after the formation of the third leaf. If the third leaf has not yet formed, but frosts are expected, then the growing green shoot is pinched so that a stalk 5-10 mm long remains from its base.
Usually in autumn there are more opportunities to purchase good planting material for roses. Having received it at the end of September, it is quite possible to plant it - with appropriate shelter for the winter, roses will not disappear. Having received roses late in the fall, it is better to dig them in for winter storage, for example, in a layer of slightly moistened sand (40-50 cm) in a basement with a temperature of 0 to minus 2 ° C. The room should not be dry, otherwise it is periodically sprayed with water to a relative humidity of 70-80%.
You can store planting material outdoors in a trench or hole under a canopy. The trench is arranged so that there is a gap of 5-10 cm between the soil and the shelter, through which air must pass. From above, the trench is covered with boards. IN very coldy leaves, needles or soil are piled on the boards. It is even better to use an air-dry storage method for wintering roses.
We dig up the ground in the place of planting roses. © David Austin 
We loosen the soil. © David Austin 
Digging a hole for planting a rose bush. © David Austin In the spring, planting roses should not be late. From the strong heating of the soil by the sun, water from the tissues of the plant quickly evaporates and the roots take root poorly. If the rose seedlings are somewhat dried up, that is, the green bark on the shoots is wrinkled, the material is immersed in water for one day, after which it is added dropwise to moist soil in the shade before planting.
If the rose seedlings are frozen during shipment, they are placed in a package in a cool room for thawing.
Processing roses before planting
Before planting, the stems and roots are cut so that the number of remaining shoots matches the number of remaining roots. This is due to the fact that during digging and transportation, a huge part of the roots is lost. In the initial period of growth, small roots cannot provide nutrition to the entire vegetative mass of newly planted rose bushes. After removing the extra shoots, the remaining one or three are shortened to 10-12 cm, leaving two or three dormant buds on each. Such pruning will ensure good survival of seedlings. Often this is not done, as a result there is a large attack of seedlings.
We plant a rose observing the level. © David Austin Planting roses
When planting on pre-cultivated soil, plowed or dug up by 50-60 cm, the distance between the rows is left in accordance with the dimensions of the processing agricultural implements - 80-100 cm, the distance in the row, depending on the variety, the thickness of the bush - 30-60 cm. Dimensions landing pits or trenches are chosen so that the roots can be freely placed on the earthen roller.
When planting in non-planted areas, pits 40-50 cm in size are arranged. When digging such pits, the upper nutrient soil layer 25 cm thick is laid separately from the lower one. Then add to the top layer: organic fertilizers (preferably rotted cow manure) - 8 kg per planting pit, superphosphate - 25 g each, potash fertilizers- 10 g each. The missing amount of soil is taken from the lower layer. All this is well mixed.
The bottom of the pit is covered with 10 cm of rotted manure and dug up on a spade bayonet, after which it is covered with soil in such a way that a roller is formed from the soil on which the roots are laid out.
Then the rest of the soil is covered, shaking the roots slightly to evenly place them in the soil. In order not to form air voids around the roots, the soil is slightly compacted after planting, making a small hole around the bush so that the water does not spread during irrigation. Watered at the rate of 10 liters per bush. The next day after planting, the place of budding should be 3-4 cm below the soil horizon. If it turned out to be lower, then the bush should be lifted with a shovel and soil should be poured under it. If the bush is above the mark, it is lowered.
We trample the earth around the rose bush and water it. © David Austin After two or three days, the soil is loosened to a depth of 3 cm and the bush is spudded with soil to the level of the cut of the shoots, that is, 10 cm. As soon as the buds begin to develop, the soil is removed from the shoots. Newly planted roses, until they develop normal leaves, it is useful to spray early in the morning or in the evening before sunset (so that the leaves have time to dry).
