How to treat walls before wallpaper. Finishing the walls before wallpapering. What is the preparation of walls for wallpapering?
Fungus and mold can form in absolutely every apartment or house, which negatively affect human health. It is very important to know how to treat a wall against mold and mildew in order to make it more aesthetic appearance premises and prevent the development of diseases.
Main types of fungi
Before deciding how to treat a wall against mold and mildew, you need to know what types of fungi there are. There are quite a few types of them. The most common among them are:
- moldy;
- blue fungi;
- decay fungi.
If the surface of the walls is heavily damaged by mold, the room is completely disinfected by using a sprayed disinfectant. This product penetrates into microcracks, completely eliminating fungi and mold even under wallpaper.
Folk remedies for eliminating mold and fungi
Many people are interested in how to treat a wall against mold and mildew with folk remedies, since many of the chemicals used can be very dangerous to human health. Among the most popular folk remedies you need to highlight the following:
- bleaching powder;
- hydrogen peroxide;
- copper sulfate solution.
A bleach solution is considered a good solution. To do this, you need to dilute 200 g of lime in 1 liter of water. In addition, it is advisable to additionally use fungicides included in adhesive compositions.
If the mold has spread to the plaster layer, then hydrogen peroxide must be used for treatment. Also good remedy Copper sulfate is considered to be used to eliminate mold and fungi. To prepare the liquid, you need to dissolve 100 g of vitriol in 10 liters of water. The solution must be applied to the surface of the walls using a brush or spray.
How to get rid of mold and mildew forever?
Having found out the reason for the formation of mold in the apartment, you can choose an antimicrobial agent. Before treating walls against fungus, you need to carefully check the adhesion of the plaster to the base. A dull sound may indicate that there is a cavity under the plaster, which leads to the spread of mold. All plaster must be removed from this area and the putty must be reapplied.
Then you need to apply an antiseptic composition to the treated surface using a sprayer, brush, or roller. The product is evenly distributed throughout the infected area.
Prevention of fungi and mold formation
Most often, fungus forms in rooms with poor ventilation. In the bathroom, a favorite place for mold and mildew is in the seams between the tiles. You need to fight fungus on the walls in the bathroom by stabilizing humidity and temperature, which does not require tightly closing the door. If ventilation is not good enough, you need to install an additional fan.
The cause of mold formation can be cold and drafts. In this case, it is worth carrying out external insulation. To remove fungus and mold, you need to perform antiseptic treatment and subsequent waterproofing.
Before wallpapering
Before you start wallpapering ceilings and walls, you need to prepare the surfaces well. The appearance of the wallpaper will depend on how you do this work.
If old wallpaper is pasted on the ceiling or walls, it must be removed and traces of glue washed off. To make this easier, you need to wet the wallpaper a couple of times hot water and remove with a metal spatula or scraper. There are wallpapers that do not get wet easily, so they will need to be cut to make it easier for water to penetrate into them. You can use a special wallpaper remover added to water. You need to wet the wallpaper and leave it for half an hour, and then moisten it with water again and remove it with a spatula. Wet old wallpaper well with an old brush or large sponge.
After complete removal wallpaper and its residues, you need to thoroughly rinse the surface with water using a wide brush; you may also need a bucket of warm water and a spatula. Using a brush, wet about 2-3 m2 and leave for a few minutes so that it absorbs moisture. After wide spatula clean surfaces that have a layer of whitewash or old glue. After cleaning the surface in this way, it should be washed away with a brush well moistened with water. As a result, you have a surface cleaned of deposits, small particles and dust.
When cleaning the ceiling, it is easier to take a sponge previously attached to a long stick. Thus, it is not difficult to reach the ceiling while on the floor. If the old paint was adhesive, it is washed off with water, and if it is dispersion, then it needs to be scraped off.
If the surface has been painted oil paint, then it will need to be washed with soap, dried and sanded all uneven places. Only after data preparatory work, you can start wallpapering the surfaces.
Often in damp areas, such as the kitchen or bathroom, mold can grow on the ceilings and walls. It must be removed, otherwise it will appear on the new wallpaper. Places where there is mold must be thoroughly cleaned of paint or old wallpaper and the surface treated with a bleach solution. Method of preparing the solution: 200 g per 1 liter of water. bleach. You can also treat such a place with a fungicide. And when gluing such places, it will be necessary to use glue that contains a fungicide.
After the old wallpaper, former glue and mold have been removed, you need to inspect the ceilings and walls for defects. Often old surfaces need additional treatment: filling cracks, which then need to be cleaned, removing irregularities. If you have cold walls, you can additionally insulate them with thin polystyrene foam; in addition, you can even out defects on the surface with it. On the ceiling you need to remove unnecessary holes from fasteners, if you need to remove hooks for chandeliers and then fill them with putty.
If there are nailed sheets of any material on the surfaces, you need to check them thoroughly so that the nail heads do not stick out. To avoid the appearance of rust on the wallpaper later, the heads of the nails need to be recessed and painted over with light oil paint, then putty and sanded.
The next stage in preparing walls and ceilings for wallpapering is priming. Porous surfaces such as drywall or plaster must be primed. Applying primer is necessary to fix small particles on the surface so that they do not subsequently damage the connection of the adhesive to the wall. We recommend these primers. or. It can also be primed using highly diluted wallpaper glue. After priming, the surface must dry. With this treatment it will be much easier to glue the wallpaper, and in addition, it will protect against fungus.
Pre-pasting with paper.
Usually, small roughness can be smoothed out by gluing plain paper or ready-made wallpaper paper - waste paper - to the walls. A special composition is applied to the surface of this wallpaper paper; subsequently, it is very easy to remove old wallpaper from it. You can also use old newspapers. If you decide to pre-glue it with thin paper, you will need to glue it overlapping; if it is thick, it will need to be glued end to end.
Specially designed wallpaper paper is smeared with glue and folded for a while so that it is saturated with glue. Then the paper is glued to the wall and smoothed with a brush or rag to remove wrinkles and bubbles. If you decide to use newspapers for these purposes, then you need to fold them in a stack and smear them with glue, then immediately stick them to the wall, also smoothing them thoroughly. After the pasted surface has dried, it must be sanded to remove all roughness and wrinkles.
The pasted paper acts as a primer under the wallpaper, protecting it from the effects of alkalis, which often appears on plastered or concrete surfaces In addition, the paper smoothes out unevenness.
Preparing the walls
1. Removing old wallpaper
Before gluing wallpaper and other wall coverings, you must carefully remove old wallpaper and coverings. How to do it? Very simple! Apply Metylan Wallpaper Remover to the wall and let it soak in. Then simply scrape off the old wallpaper. Use a scraper if necessary.
2. Leveling the walls
Before you start gluing wallpaper, the surface of the walls must be leveled and treated with a primer. Fill and plaster all uneven areas. After drying, sand the surface. New walls must be primed. After priming, the surface to be pasted must be thoroughly dried. Pre-treat highly absorbent surfaces (especially wood) with a weak adhesive solution.
3. Surface preparation
It is best to stick wallpaper onto hard, smooth surface. Test the wall surface by running your hand over it.
If there is lime/dust left on your hand, then the wall is not well prepared for wallpapering. To ensure good adhesion to the wall, use a surface preparation solution, which can be prepared from wallpaper paste in accordance with the preparation proportions indicated on the pack.
Treating walls before wallpapering: steps, materials, tools
The wallpaper in the neighbor's apartment looks unsurpassed, and the neighbors are celebrating the completion of the renovation? Is your own wallpaper bubbling, peeling off in places, or has it fallen off altogether? Don't panic. The secret to the success of neighbors is the correct and thorough preparation of the walls before wallpapering, although this work takes time, but the result is long-term contemplation and admiration of the fruits of one’s labor.
To properly prepare the walls before wallpapering, you need to be patient and have the necessary tools:
- spatulas, brushes, rollers, sponges, grout boards, water, sometimes even tape
- starting and finishing putty and gypsum if necessary
- primer
- glue suitable for the type of wallpaper
- the wallpaper itself.
Perfectly treated walls mean perfectly glued wallpaper. Having mastered this rule, you can safely get to work.
The first stage of wall treatment is removing old wallpaper
Labor activity begins with removing the old coating layer. It’s good if the old wallpaper did not adhere firmly to the walls, then carefully prying it up at the seams, we remove it sheet by sheet. If the old wallpaper is not ready to give up without a fight, wet its surface with water and give it a little time to soak. So the work will pass much easier.
Along with the old wallpaper, it is necessary to remove all remnants of various coatings on the walls. This could be old newspapers, paint or whitewash residues, and so on. To do this, you can walk soaked in warm water brush on the walls, and using metal scraper deal with them.
One is small, but very important nuance. If signs of life (fungus and mold) are found under your old wallpaper, you need to treat the walls with a solution of lime with chlorine or special chemicals. Otherwise, your uninvited neighbors will soon remind you of themselves with stains on the new coating. This also applies to stains from water leakage or rust. Such places are carefully sanded, opened necessary solutions and putty.
The next step is leveling the surfaces
If the walls are very damaged, then you should first apply the starting putty and wait for it to dry.
Before using the finishing fine-grained putty, the plastered walls must be cleaned with sandpaper. This will help avoid grains and unevenness from appearing on the wallpaper.
After application finishing material, it is also advisable to lightly sand the walls with fine-grained sandpaper.
Option with drywall
What to do if plasterboard sheets are attached to the walls. First of all, make sure that the screw heads are not protruding. If necessary, correct this defect. Next, putty is applied to the surface of the drywall. Namely, at the places of fastening and joints of sheets. A special mounting mesh is pre-glued to the joints. It will help to better apply the putty material and hold the sheets together more firmly. After drying, apply finishing putty over the entire surface of the plasterboard sheets.
Priming is the final stage of wall processing
Priming is a necessary and final stage in preparing walls before wallpapering. Prime any coating, be it putty, drywall or gypsum surface. Applying primer will help avoid cracking of the coating, as it holds together the smallest particles, and as a result, deformation of the wallpaper.
Only after the surface has completely dried can you start gluing wallpaper. To do this, you can stick a small piece of tape to the wall. If after some time droplets of moisture appear on it, the surface is not quite ready yet. Do not force the drying of the primer. Low temperatures increase the drying period, and high temperatures can lead to the formation of bubbles and divergence of joints on surfaces. The ideal temperature would be 20 degrees.
There are many types of wallpaper:
- paper, consisting of two layers - a base and a decorative layer with a pattern or embossing
- structural, with colored paste applied to the base. This is a very damage resistant wallpaper.
- non-woven wallpaper suitable for subsequent painting
- vinyl, with a fabric base and vinyl seal. Such wallpaper is very wear-resistant.
The choice of glue is carried out according to the type of wallpaper selected. You need to remember one unspoken rule: the denser the wallpaper, the thicker the glue. Also, the glue must be neutral in chemical composition, environmentally friendly and transparent.
Next, marking the wall and cutting the wallpaper begins. It is better to cut the canvas with a drying allowance of five centimeters. Extra centimeters can be easily removed with a paper knife after gluing. If the wallpaper has a pattern and design, then it should be taken into account that when adjusting the pattern, it is permissible to move the canvas up to 64 cm. It is better to adjust the pattern from above.
The glue is applied to the canvas in the direction from the center to the edge, and the latter is coated especially carefully. If necessary, coat the wall. Special instructions can always be found in the instructions on the rolls.
Having previously dismantled all switches and sockets, for the convenience of the pasting process, you can begin to work. Gluing the canvas begins from the top, gradually ironing the wallpaper from the center to the sides to avoid the formation of air pockets, wrinkles and folds.
Almost all types of modern wallpaper are glued on the joint-to-joint principle; the overlapping method has long been no longer relevant. You should carefully monitor the gluing and smoothing of the canvas so that gaps do not form between the canvases.
Like any other matter, preparing walls for wallpapering and the process of wallpapering itself cannot be rushed. By strictly following the instructions and observing safety precautions, you can achieve good results in all aspects of the repair.
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Many people pay great attention to the process of choosing wallpaper, without attaching importance to proper preparation of the surface before pasting it. And completely in vain. Preparing walls for pasting is an extremely important procedure, on which the success of the undertaking entirely depends. And if it is carried out incorrectly or if this stage is skipped altogether, then the new decorative coating, even if you paid a lot of money for it, will have a very unsightly appearance. Or it won’t stick to the wall at all, which is actually even worse. Be that as it may, the preparation procedure must be carried out very carefully. Which, in fact, is what we want to tell those who don’t know what needs to be done before hanging wallpaper, how to treat the walls, and why do it at all.
What should be the surface for wallpaper?
So, what preparatory work needs to be done so that the updated decor of the room not only pleases with its appearance, but also stays well on the wall for a long time? In order to correctly understand the essence of the issue and correctly determine the volume and type finishing works, you need to start from the opposite. That is, to know what the ideal surface for wallpaper should be.
But first of all it must be dry. A wet surface will poorly absorb the water contained in the glue, and therefore the composition will not adhere properly to the wall and will not provide the required quality of adhesion of the surface to the decorative coating.
The base must be strong. That is, the presence of flaking surfaces on the wall, areas of plaster that are literally breathing under your hand, old wallpaper hanging in shreds and other unnecessary elements is a direct contraindication to pasting. First, the base coat needs to be polished, as they say, and only then can you begin the pasting procedure.
The surface must be clean. If there are black stains from mold and mildew on it, there is no point in asking the question of whether the walls need to be treated before wallpapering. Here already we're talking about not even about how the new coating on such a wall will look, but about how you will feel in the near future, because dampness in the room negatively affects not only the condition of the wallpaper, but also your health.
The wall should be smooth and have a uniform color. Only then on the new decorative coating All possible and impossible defects will not appear, which will cause not joy from the work done, but bewilderment and annoyance.
What is ideal wall preparation?
Home craftsmen do not always carry out thorough preparation. And quite often, not because they don’t know how to treat the walls before wallpapering, but because this procedure itself is quite lengthy and expensive. After all, ideally, the walls need to be rid of the old coating, then an antiseptic treatment of the base should be carried out, after which it should be carefully leveled with plaster, and then puttied, cleaned and primed. There is a lot of work, and a lot of expensive materials will be required. So the craftsmen resort to all sorts of tricks, trying to skip one or another stage of preparation. Sometimes this can be done when there are appropriate prerequisites for this (we will give some tricky tips on this at the end of the article), but most often it is still unwise to do so. In principle, of course, everyone decides for themselves what they need. One person is also happy that a month after the renovation, the wallpaper is hanging in the corners of the room and angrily grinning at the separated seams, while the other begins to almost have a nervous attack at the sight of a small tubercle sticking out from under the wallpaper in a far from the most visible place in the room.
We, in turn, will still allow ourselves to give a few recommendations and will try to describe in as much detail and step by step as possible how to properly treat the walls before wallpapering.
Stage one: general preparation
How to treat concrete walls before wallpapering
The fungus seems to have been dealt with. But what should you do if under the old wallpaper you suddenly find not a layer of plaster, but literally bare concrete? What to do in this case? Glue on such a base modern wallpaper under no circumstances is it possible. In general, this can be understood at first glance. Such a wall has a very unsightly appearance, it is all rough, full of defects and literally brings tears to your eyes with its curvature. How to treat the walls before wallpapering in this case? We answer - nothing! You just need to ignore the notorious savings and wasted time and start plastering the surface. Which, in fact, is the second stage in the process competent preparation bases for wallpaper.
Plastering
As for the plastering process itself, there are two possible scenarios. In the case of the above concrete walls(as well as brick or made from silicate blocks) there is no alternative. You will have to plaster the entire surface, from corner to corner. Moreover, in the case of large curvature, be sure to install beacons. By the way, you will be forced to carry out exactly the same procedure if you have a plastered one, but it’s also not very flat surface. But if the wall does not cause any particular complaints, but only has minor defects and the areas of curvature on it are relatively small, then it is quite possible to limit ourselves to resuscitation measures. That is, seal all existing defects and cracks with plaster, as well as trim some areas. Then you need to wait for the solution to dry, and then prime the entire surface of the walls with an acrylic primer. After it has dried, you can proceed to the last stage.
Puttying
The purpose of this procedure is to make the underlying base white and smooth. After which you can glue any wallpaper, even the most capricious, without fear for the outcome of the matter. As for the process itself, it will not cause any particular problems for those who know how to hold a spatula in their hands. Buy putty mixture, and not necessarily a very expensive one, mix, apply a thin first layer to the walls, wait for it to dry. Then you sand it with sandpaper, prime it, then putty it again, sand it again and prime it. At the same time, it is not at all necessary that the surface be perfectly smooth, without a single scratch. Minor minor defects will be hidden under the wallpaper. The main thing is to make it smooth and durable. But to achieve the latter, a primer is used. A little more about her.
What primer to use on walls before wallpapering?
Some may not think the question worth attention. Primer - and primer. Bought it, anointed it, done. But things are a little more complicated. The fact is that at the moment there are quite a lot of different compositions. And not all of them are suitable for wallpaper, as they have a special purpose. The primer is designed to give the surface such quality as adhesion. That is, it should ensure maximum adherence of the wallpaper and its adhesion to the wall. And it is best suited for these purposes. It is generally considered universal, compatible with all types of surfaces, and dries quite quickly. So when buying soil, don’t be smart. Buy acrylic - you definitely can’t go wrong. The choice on the market is quite large, but the most popular brands are “Ceresit”, “Snezhka” and “Master”.
And remember: after priming, the wall must dry thoroughly. And it’s best not to rush and give her a day to do this. And then you can proceed directly to the pasting process.
It is compliance with all the above rules and carrying out the described procedures that will answer the question of how to properly treat the walls before wallpapering. This is the only way to get a truly even and durable base. And the wallpaper glued to it will stick perfectly to the wall, delighting you with its excellent appearance for many years.
Secrets of the masters
Finally, a few tricks and useful tips. If you were unable to achieve perfectly smooth walls, it doesn’t matter. The main thing is that you end up with a durable and well-finished base. Just don’t buy plain or solid colors in this case. striped wallpaper- buy something colorful, albeit with an unobtrusive, but pattern.
If you have no way to re-plaster and putty the walls, that is, you are forced to glue on what you have, then in any case, first of all, carefully treat the surface with a primer. And preferably twice, with a break of several hours. And try to disguise any existing defects on the walls with wallpaper. And to cover such problematic surfaces, purchase the most “plump”, corrugated decorative coating, preferably with an abstract pattern.
Conclusion
We tried to answer as fully as possible the question of how and why to treat walls before wallpapering. We hope that we not only managed to convince you of the need this process, but we also managed to teach you how to do it correctly.
Treating the walls before wallpapering is an important stage in the renovation process, requiring time and attention. Their appearance and service life will depend on how carefully and efficiently the surface was prepared before wallpapering.
What is the preparation of walls for wallpapering?
Without proper training high quality finish walls is impossible. If your plans for the future do not include the item “do repairs every year,” then the issue of wall treatment should be taken very seriously. Regardless of the quality of the wallpaper, what material it is made of and how much it costs, they require a properly prepared surface. Therefore, all the time, effort and resources spent on leveling, priming and puttying the walls will pay off in the future with interest.
The requirements for the wall surface intended for wallpapering are as follows:
- the surface must be dry. When wallpapering, the wall absorbs moisture contained in glue solution, and a wet surface will not absorb anything. To check the condition of the surface, you can glue a piece of cellophane with tape overnight. If droplets of dew appear under it in the morning, then the room needs to be ventilated and dried.
- clean and monochromatic. Stains may show through the wallpaper, ruining its appearance. Therefore, it is necessary to get rid of dirt and prime the surface;
You can find out whether stains will show through the wallpaper by examining the canvas against the light. If the wallpaper is transparent and has veins, then the defect will certainly be visible. If the wallpaper is thick and heavy, then the stains will not be visible.
- durable. If the wall is crumbling and peeling, then the wallpaper will soon begin to peel off. It’s very easy to check the strength; you can use your fingernail, a key, a coin and run it across the work surface. If there are no traces left, then the condition is satisfactory;
- no limescale stains. The danger of such a defect is that these areas do not absorb moisture. As a result, swelling of the wallpaper occurs. You can check such places using litmus paper. If the alkalinity is increased, a reaction will occur.
- absence of mold and mildew. Such a defect not only looks bad, but also has a bad effect on health. To prevent a “new pattern” from appearing on the wallpaper, you need to carefully treat the affected areas with an antifungal primer.
To fulfill all these requirements, you need to carry out only three stages to prepare the walls for wallpapering:
- Dismantling or removing old wallpaper;
- Plastering walls;
- Puttying the surface.
Treating walls before wallpapering: stage one
The first stage is dismantling the old layer of wallpaper. You need to get rid of it and under no circumstances glue a new layer on top of the old wallpaper. This cannot be done, because the previous layer may simply not withstand the weight of the new wallpaper, and everything will slide off the wall at once. On the surface of the new wallpaper, after the glue has dried, the pattern that adorned the previous layer will most likely appear, and all this will be covered with wrinkles and bubbles.
Before you start getting rid of the boring old wallpaper, you need to start preparing the room. The room must be cleared of furniture in order to have free access to the necessary areas. It is recommended to dismantle the plinth, but there are cases when it is not rational to do this, for example, if the plinth is wooden and there is a risk of breaking it. The sockets must be de-energized, the chandelier removed, the radiators, window sills and floors covered with thick polyethylene.
The site’s site masters have prepared a special calculator for you. You can easily calculate the area of the walls.
So, everything is ready, and you can free the work surface from the old wallpaper:
- soaking will make this process easier. A bucket will come in handy hot water and a paint roller on an extended rod. The roller needs to be soaked in water and passed over the surface of the wallpaper.
- The wallpaper is peeled off using an overlay spatula. If the canvas still resists, you need to repeat the soaking procedure.
- When the wallpaper is finished, you need to remove the peeling plaster, unscrew all dowels, screws and nails, remove cables and wires.
- a visual inspection of the walls is carried out for the presence of defects (bulges, depressions, cracks, etc.).
- The surface is checked using a level and the scope of work on plastering the walls is indicated.
Plastering or how to level walls before wallpapering
Plastering is the application of a leveling solution to the work surface; this is exactly the means that can solve the problem of how to level the walls before wallpapering. Modern gypsum-based solutions have good adhesion and can be applied in a layer of 5 mm to 7 cm at a time, which is very convenient. For such pleasure you will have to pay a little more than for cement plaster, but the result is worth it.
To rid walls of geometry defects, you need to familiarize yourself with the following aspects:
- Preparation plaster mixture. To dilute the mixture, you will need a bucket of water and a construction mixer. All proportions and instructions are indicated on the package with the mixture.
- Working with a spatula. You need to take two spatulas: a wide one and a small one (overlay). So, both hands are busy, which means both will work. Using a small spatula, apply plaster in small portions from a bucket onto the wide surface. Then the plaster is applied with smooth movements from bottom to top.
- Working with the surface.
- Potholes and depressions on the wall are filled by simply moving the spatula from bottom to top.
- You can first try to knock down the bulges and humps with a hammer or perforator. Next, you need to smooth out this defect along the edges with plaster, increasing its width, gradually eliminating this flaw.
- Leveling a blocked wall. This is a more labor-intensive process; you cannot do without plaster beacons, a plumb line and long rule. Before plastering, the surface is primed. The first beacon is placed on the flattest protruding section of the wall. The second one is mounted on the opposite side. Threads are run along the wall from below and above to determine the plane. Then more beacons are attached pointwise to plaster or dowels at intervals of approximately 1 m.
- The rule and level will help to install the beacons in the same plane. If everything is correct, you can apply the plaster after the plaster has dried. It is recommended to first spray more liquid solution plaster, onto which, after drying, the bulk of the solution will be applied. The solution is thrown onto the wall and leveled according to the rule from the ceiling down. This procedure can be performed several times with intermediate drying.
Spraying with plaster prevents the base layer of mortar from slipping.
Final direct preparation of walls before wallpapering
After all the manipulations with leveling the walls, it is necessary to make them clean and smooth. It is on such a surface that high-quality wallpaper can be hung. After finishing puttying, the surface becomes white and monochromatic, which guarantees that dark concrete or dark concrete will not show through the wallpaper. various spots. Putty walls can be painted, which is important, since under some wallpaper it is recommended to paint the walls to match the canvas.
The puttying sequence consists of several stages:
- Prime the walls using an impregnating or strengthening roller.
- Preparation of putty. You will need a bucket, water and a construction mixer. The manufacturer's instructions describe all proportions and mixing conditions. The prepared solution should not drain from the spatula.
- Puttying walls. The solution is applied with a wide spatula in a circular motion. Putty is produced in several layers. The next layer can be applied only after 6–24 hours, when the previous one has dried well.
- Puttying is carried out in at least two layers, since 1–4 mm of solution can be applied at a time.
- Puttying areas in hard to reach places. To carry out work on the battery, pipes, etc. A rubber spatula will come in handy.
- Finishing layer of putty. It is applied more carefully so that there are no traces of the tool left, and there is less work on sanding the walls.
Sanding the walls after puttying is done using sandpaper. For convenience, you can attach sandpaper to a block with a holder. Sanding is done from above the corner using circular movements. Apply even pressure on the bar, gradually moving downward. After sanding, the surface is primed again, dried, and you can glue the wallpaper.
Many homeowners starting their first do-it-yourself repair, suggest that hanging wallpaper on walls is a very simple and quick process, which in many respects is superior to other types of finishing in these indicators. In part, this is exactly the case, but only if the surfaces are well prepared for the main work. Preparatory activities consist of several stages, and some of them are enough labor-intensive and "dirty". But carrying them out is a prerequisite, otherwise the desired effect from the finishing will not be achieved, and expensive wallpaper will be damaged.
One of the necessary steps involved in preparing surfaces is their careful leveling with subsequent priming with special compounds. Knowing this only from hearsay, beginners often have a question - how to treat the walls before wallpapering? In addition, you need to know that in order to create an ideal surface for wallpapering, all work must be carried out in a certain order, without omissions or simplifications.
Requirements for surfaces for wallpapering
First you need to determine the criteria that the wall intended for wallpapering must meet. Not only the decorative quality of the finish, but also its durability will depend on compliance with these conditions. Therefore, the first step is to inspect the surface and determine the amount of work to be done. The walls can be checked only after the old coating has been removed from them.
After completely cleaning the walls from the old decorative finishing, they must meet the following requirements:
- The walls must be dry, since a wet surface practically does not absorb water, which is the basis for wallpaper glue. In this regard, the canvases will not adhere well to the wall, and as the temperature in the room rises and moisture evaporates, the wallpaper will begin to peel off from the surface.
- Cleanliness of the base. The walls must be freed not only from old coatings, but also from possible pockets of mold (even if they are only suspected). You shouldn’t even start pasting the wall if you find suspicious dark stains or obvious colonies of some kind of microflora on it, since sooner or later they will destroy the finish and will definitely appear outside.
In addition, mold, growing, is thrown into environment spores that are dangerous to human health. The wallpaper is on paper based are a very favorable environment for rapid development such colonies. And they will definitely appear under the already pasted canvases if the wall is even a little damp.
- The wall should not have cracks or other damage, as they will appear through the glued sheets. Well, with further expansion of the cracks, tears or folds from distortions may appear on the decorative coating.
- Surfaces must be even and smooth, as well as uniform in color, otherwise unevenness will definitely be visible through the wallpaper. If the selected canvases have a small thickness and are painted in light shades, then the color difference on the wall surface will certainly appear through them.
Step-by-step preparation of surfaces for wallpaper
The process of preparing surfaces for wallpapering - quite long and a tedious procedure that requires not only effort, but also some additional costs. Therefore, some home-grown craftsmen, trying to save time, effort and money, consider it optional. However, in order for the wallpaper to have good adhesion to the wall, look aesthetically pleasing, adhere reliably to the surface and last a long time, it is impossible to do without preparatory work.
Wall preparation consists of the following steps:
- Cleaning surfaces from old coatings.
- Cleaning the walls and carrying out “treatment”.
- Repairing detected cracks and chips.
- Priming of surfaces, which will strengthen the structure of the wall material.
- Leveling surfaces with plaster or putty only, depending on the original base.
- Sanding leveled walls.
- Primer treatment to increase the adhesive properties of materials.
Plastering work is necessary in cases where surfaces have serious deformations. In some cases, an alternative to the “wet” technique for leveling walls can be the use of plasterboard (“dry plaster”) for this purpose, which is glued directly to the wall.
Cleaning surfaces from old coatings
The first step is to clean the walls from old coatings - paint, wallpaper, whitewash and others. Be sure to remove any nails or dowels found.
- , although in some cases this process may take longer if they were glued with high-quality glue.
Various methods are used to remove used canvases.
— The first method, which is most often used by home craftsmen, is to try to pick up a sheet of paper with a spatula and carefully remove it from the wall, being careful not to tear it. Sometimes the canvases are easily completely separated from the surface, and there are no special problems with cleaning.
— Another option is to generously moisten the paper sheets with warm water using a brush, roller or spray. Water is applied to the surface several times, as it should completely saturate the paper and soften the glue. In this case, the soaked wallpaper has to be cleaned off with a spatula using some effort.
— Vinyl multilayer wallpaper has to be removed in two stages - first, the top decorative layer of the canvas is removed, and then the paper backing, which, as a rule, is securely attached to the wall, is peeled off. It is also well moistened and removed with a spatula.
Prices for antifungal agent for walls
antifungal agent for walls
- In addition, wallpaper can be removed using steam. Some craftsmen use a steam iron for this purpose; professional finishers often purchase a special steamer to facilitate large-scale work.
- If you plan to paste over a previously painted wall, then getting rid of the paint layer will be somewhat more difficult. Surfaces can also be cleaned using several methods.
— Mechanical method consists of removing a layer of paint using an electric drill. To do this, an iron brush or an abrasive attachment is installed in its cartridge.
— The thermomechanical method consists of two stages - heating the paint using a hair dryer and further cleaning the peeled coating with a spatula.
— Chemical-mechanical method. In this case, a special stripping compound is applied to the wall, softening the paint layer, which, under the influence of the drug, is easily separated from the surface.
- It may not be difficult to remove whitewash from the walls, but you need to prepare for a lot of dirt. Therefore, before starting work, it is recommended to lay the floors along the wall plastic film. If the whitewash has quite thick layer, it is advisable to soak it abundantly with water and then remove it in separate fragments. A thin layer of whitewash is washed off with water, to which a little vinegar is added, which will degrease the coating, and it will be easier to remove from the wall.
Removing foci of biological damage and “treating” the wall
If, after removing the old coatings, mold stains are found on the walls, it will not be easy to get rid of them. But this must be done in any case, otherwise there is no point in taking on new finishing.
The problem with their removal is that this microflora grows deeply into the structure of the wall material. And if the stains are removed only from the surface, without further taking any more radical measures, then after some time they will again appear on the outside, and, they will easily “eat” the new pasted wallpaper sheets. Therefore, to remove mold it is imperative to use special compounds, capable of penetrating deep into the material.
However, first you should determine the cause of fungal formations and take measures to eliminate it. If this is not done, the removed stains will soon return to their place. For example, if this is a wall bordering a bathroom or kitchen, then it is necessary to start processing from these rooms. If mold occurs on external wall, then it may be worthwhile to sort out the system or apartment, and also check the corners for the occurrence of through cracks.
If mold has formed on the plaster layer, then it is better not to even treat it, but to remove it completely.
Today, specialized stores offer different variants fungicides to remove biological formations. The compositions can be sprayed onto the surface or applied using a brush or roller.
Mold solutions are sold in containers of various sizes. Hands must be protected during this process. Airways and eyes, since most solutions are made based on chlorine, used in high concentrations.
Most likely, the wall will have to be treated five to six times, since mold “goes away” is quite difficult. After waiting for the disinfectant to dry, the wall must be washed with water, removing any remaining stains with a brush.
If necessary, the process will have to be repeated, that is, apply the solution again, then rinse the surface well. If everything went well and the wall became clean, then it is recommended to dry it well with hot air by pointing a heater at it. Best suited in this situation heat gun, since it is designed for directed action.
If after treatment the mold does not go away, then you should seek help from specialists who should cope with this task. But professional processing will cost much more.
At home, you can prepare a mold control agent that is less harmful to humans and does not contain chlorine. To do this you will need 200 grams of slaked lime and a liter of water. If more solution is needed, it is prepared in the same proportions.
I would like to give advice to those who are moving into apartments in new buildings. To prevent mold from taking over the surfaces of your home, it is best to immediately, before finishing, treat the walls with a special primer, which will prevent the appearance of foci of biological damage.
Carrying out wall surface repairs
If cracks are found on the wall, which is not uncommon in old houses, they must be repaired. Otherwise, in the future they can ruin the appearance of the finish.
Wall repair work is quite simple, and this process includes the following steps:
- The detected crack is widened so that the material with which it will be sealed penetrates as deeply as possible into the wall.
- Then, it is cleaned with a brush, sweeping away dust, sand and fragments chipped from the edges of the crack from the inside.
- The next step is to crack. It is advisable to do this with a spray bottle, but if you don’t have one, then a soft brush will do.
- Next, the crack needs to be filled repair material. It can be made on the same basis as the wall material. But modern polymer-based repair compounds are also very convenient, especially if the crack is small in width. To repair a wide crack, it can also be used polyurethane foam with a low expansion coefficient.
- After waiting for the repair composition to harden, the protruding excess is cut off, and then the surface is sanded, since the applied “patches” must be brought to the level of the main surface.
Surface priming
The next step is to treat the walls with a primer solution that contains antiseptic substances. Some consider the priming stage to be optional, but you need to know that it is thanks to this layer that high adhesion of any materials and protection against the occurrence of new mold formations is ensured.
Prices for primer for walls
primer for walls
Primer solutions can be different types, they are divided according to the basis on which they are made, as well as according to other criteria.
| Criteria for subdividing primers | Types of primer solutions |
|---|---|
| Based on manufacturing | Acrylic, mineral, alkyd and others. |
| According to the degree of penetration into the base. | Deep penetration, ordinary. |
| By purpose | For plastered walls, concrete, wood, metal surfaces and universal. |
| By area of application | For outdoor, interior works, as well as universal. |
| By properties | Antiseptic, moisture-resistant, antifungal, anti-corrosion, fireproof, etc. |
Based on these characteristics, you can select the required solution.
To treat any walls, it is best to purchase the composition deep penetration. It will strengthen the base by filling the pores of the wall material structure. Based on the material of manufacture, it is recommended to choose an acrylic-based solution.
The primer is applied to the walls using a roller or brush in two to three layers, each of which must be dried before applying the next.
Leveling surfaces
The wall to be wallpapered must, of course, be very smooth. But it doesn’t really need perfect smoothness, unlike preparation for painting. Therefore, some roughness is quite acceptable.
The alignment process can be done in three ways. The optimal one is selected depending on the quality of the surface:
- Traditional way leveling is a “wet” method using cement-sand mortar or gypsum-based mixtures. This method gives good result, but not always convenient, quite difficult to perform and requires certain skills. It should be noted that not every novice master is able to perform such work efficiently the first time. When choosing plastering to level walls, you should prepare for a lot of dirt, since mixing the solution will be done in a room where work is being carried out. Due to inexperience, a lot of plaster will end up on the floor. In order not to spoil the solution flooring, it will have to be covered with polyethylene.
Most likely, the matter will not be limited to plastering - finishing putty will have to be done on top of this layer. Another disadvantage of this method is the duration of the process, since each layer of plaster, and then putty, must be thoroughly dried before applying the next one.
Prices for finishing plaster
finishing plaster
Plastering walls is not as easy as it might seem.
It would not be surprising if the first attempts are not entirely successful. There is no need to give up - experience will definitely come. And to help the novice master there will be an article from our portal.
- Leveling walls with plasterboard is perhaps a more accessible method for an inexperienced builder. Sheets of this plaster can be fixed to the wall using a special glue, also made from gypsum. This technology is well suited for use if the wall has slight unevenness. It will be problematic to fix a strongly curved wall by gluing drywall.
One of the difficult operations when using this alignment method is the installation of the sheet since it has quite a heavy weight and size, and can easily break if not handled carefully. Therefore, when installing solid sheets to the wall, you cannot do without assistants.
If the wall is relatively flat, then a sheet of drywall is possible, but gluing them to the same level will be more difficult. In addition, the volume of work will increase due to reinforcement and puttying of numerous joints.
The advantages of this method of installing gypsum boards is obtaining a perfectly smooth and even surface. At the same time, additional thermal insulation of the wall is achieved, since plasterboard has low thermal conductivity. If mold manifestations were previously detected on the wall being leveled, and it went away antifungal treatment, then to level it it is best to use a moisture-resistant type of material (GKLV).
How to mount plasterboard covering on glue?
This technology allows you to achieve a smooth wall surface in as soon as possible and with minimal costs. True, it is not suitable for all cases. More detailed information o posted in a special publication on our portal.
Drywall prices
drywall
- The third method of leveling the wall is also using plasterboard, but with the sheets secured to the mounted frame. This technology is used if the wall has large distortions or if it needs to be additionally insulated.
The curvature of the wall is leveled using sheathing posts aligned in one plane. And heat and sound insulating material is installed in the space between the frame elements and the wall.
The work, although not simple, is still accessible to even a beginner. It is enough for her to have necessary tools, mobilize your attention and accuracy, and act in accordance with technological recommendations.
Surface putty
Whatever method of preliminary leveling is chosen, the next step is to bring the surface of the walls to optimal evenness. Many are perplexed as to why, for example, putty on drywall - after all, it is already even and smooth. However, this must be done - there are a number of important reasons for this.
Putty will make the surface smoother, more receptive for gluing wallpaper made from different materials. In addition, this layer will even out the color of the wall. Wherein, if necessary, the putty can be given the desired shade by adding color to the solution. Sometimes this is required to maintain color scheme wallpaper
Putty is applied, as a rule, in one or two layers, each of which is dried before applying the next. Due to the fact that putty compounds dry out quickly enough, the work will not take too much time.
The wall treated with putty must be sanded to remove invisible, at first glance, irregularities. This work is done using a construction float with an abrasive mesh or medium-grain sandpaper (approximately P 120 ÷ P 180), since the surface being prepared for wallpaper may have slight roughness.
Why and how to putty walls under wallpaper?
The process was described very briefly, but this is only because a separate detailed publication is devoted to the issues on our portal.
Final priming of the wall
It is recommended to coat the leveled and puttied wall again, which will not only bond the leveling layers together, but also improve the adhesive ability of the surface. This will especially help in cases where non-woven or vinyl wallpaper that is difficult to paste is chosen for wall decoration.
There are primers that paint the surface. They are chosen for the final stage if the color of the wall after puttying is uneven.
At this stage, the primer is applied in one layer using a roller. The work will not take much time if carried out on a well-prepared surface.
Prices for non-woven wallpaper
non-woven wallpaper
The most the best option primer composition applied to almost finished surface there will be a deep penetration acrylic primer with antiseptic properties. However, for final priming of the wall on given At this stage of work, the same glue that will be used for gluing wallpaper is often used.
After the final layer of primer has dried, you can proceed to the stage final finishing walls Thanks to the work done, it will not cause any difficulties and will go quickly, and the result will please the eye for many years.
And at the end of the publication - a short video about preparing walls for wallpapering:
Video: Example of preparing walls for wallpapering
