Chinese wisteria, planting and caring for a flower waterfall. Wisteria (Wisteria) - sweet liana: planting, growing and care How to plant and care for Chinese wisteria

The flowering of wisteria is a whirlpool of bright colors, when long brushes - purple, blue, white and pink clusters, emitting a sweetish aroma - rush down like an unstoppable waterfall. After all, it is not for nothing that the reserved Japanese compare a garden with blooming wisterias with a walk in paradise.

Growing wisteria in garden culture actively used for the site, because occupying a minimum of space, it has an exceptional decorative effect. With the help of wisteria, you can not only decorate a wall (it’s not for nothing that they call it a “garden climber”, it grows by easily climbing supports), a fence or any building, but also mask visually unsightly “technical” parts of the garden, zone the yard with green screens and get protection and shelter from wind and sun.

Types of wisteria: Chinese, floriferous and frost-resistant

Wisteria as a genus includes 9 species, but we have most widespread received only a few:

  • Chinese - Wisteria chinensis, densely leafy creeper, reaching a height of up to 20 m. Its flowers are light purple inflorescences, less often - white color, up to 30 cm long, while in the entire inflorescence the flowers bloom almost simultaneously. Wisteria blooms its flowers simultaneously with the appearance of foliage and continues to bloom all summer. The secondary flowering is quite common between August and September. Cirrus graceful foliage adds to its decorative effect, its golden color will decorate autumn garden. With proper systematic pruning, you can get a tree-like upright or standard form. It perfectly adapts to the conditions of the city, can tolerate short frosts down to -20C. Decorative forms: with terry and white flowers
  • profusely flowering - Wisteria floribunda or multi-flowered, leads its pedigree from Japan. It reaches a height of about 8-10 m and a width of up to 6 m, has large (45-50 cm) racemose hanging inflorescences of a conical shape with purple-blue flowers. It begins to bloom after the appearance of leaves, compared to Chinese - 2-3 weeks later. In this case, the flowers bloom gradually, starting from the base of the brush and gradually descending lower. It blooms until the beginning of summer (mid-June), but in some varieties re-blooming occurs in July-August. Compared with another popular species - Chinese wisteria, this variety is more decorative (after flowering, abundant large, up to 45 cm, leaves act as an excellent decor) and more frost-resistant - it tolerates frosts down to -23C. There are a few decorative forms: white, pink, purple terry, with variegated leaves, large-clustered (inflorescences reach a length of up to 1.5 m)
  • blue moon frost-resistant wisteria, "adult" plants are able to endure frosts down to -37C without damage and without shelter. Made in USA, Minnesota. IN middle lane blooms in early June, flowering lasts about 2 weeks. Inflorescences 20-25 (sometimes up to 30 cm) long, blue
  • Japanese wisteria - less common, primarily because of its low frost resistance, feels comfortable only on the coast of the Caucasus or in the Crimea. Less decorative than other species - white flowers, inflorescences 15-20 cm long.

Wisteria care: rules and features

Wisteria can not be called too demanding in care, it does not require much time. Enough must be observed simple rules care so that the plant grows actively and blooms profusely.

Choice of location. Wisteria is photophilous, under sunbeams should be at least 6 hours a day. At the same time, it should be well protected from a cold place, so the southern (southwest, southeast) will be the best place. house wall. When used in vertical gardening for shoots of wisteria, a durable and strong support should be selected. Due to the high windage of the vine, it must be stable and able to withstand a sufficiently high wind load.

Advice! The shoots must be tied up, otherwise they can independently braid around the support, and in the fall it will be very difficult to remove the vine without damage in order to press it to the ground for shelter for the winter.

The soil. Wisteria loves fertile, light, well-permeable, not very wet soil. It is very difficult to tolerate calcareous soils - in this case, it develops chlorosis - the leaves become very light and lose their decorative appeal. The best thing, landing pit(dimensions 60x60x50 cm) fill with a mixture of humus, peat and sand and soddy soil in a ratio of 1:1:1:3 - this mixture contains many nutrients and contributes to the active development and further flowering of wisteria.

Watering. Wisteria does not like too wet soil - excessive soil moisture can cause leaves and buds to drop. In a very dry spring, wisteria should be shed abundantly so that, due to lack of moisture, the buds do not dry out and crumble. From the beginning of flowering until the end of summer, moderate watering is carried out - the soil should be only slightly moist. In order not to cause water stagnation at the wisteria root, in hot weather, watering is carried out better method spraying. At the end of September, watering is practically stopped - the plant slows down growth and begins to prepare for winter.

Light purple and white brushes of flowering wisteria do not leave anyone indifferent. Since the spring this tree liana pleases the eye with its flowering, which lasts all summer. IN open ground wisteria is widely used as ornamental plant. This article will discuss the features of planting and caring for this beautiful liana.

Varieties and varieties

The tree-like wisteria liana also has the second name "wisteria". natural environment habitats are considered subtropics, however, cultivated species are able to grow in almost any climate, and some varieties bred by American biologists can withstand severe winter frosts without shelter and retain the ability to bloom.

Wisteria is an incredibly beautiful liana that can be easily grown even in the north of Russia

In total, wisteria has 9 species, but most often you can find several of them:


Planting wisteria

When planting wisteria, it must be borne in mind that the plant is a perennial, and a place for it must be chosen on long years. If you want to achieve maximum flowering, then you should choose a site where the vine will be in the sun for at least half a day. In addition to the sun, care must be taken to ensure that the place is sufficiently protected from the wind, and the soil is nutritious and well-drained. Wisteria prefers slightly alkaline soils.

Planting wisteria is best done in the spring, after the last frost has passed. Despite the fact that most varieties of wisteria are frost-resistant, it is not worth putting young plants at risk once again.

For wisteria, it is necessary to determine a sunny place on the site.

Most often, wisteria is grown from seedlings. The soil is dug up with mineral fertilizer before planting, after which holes are dug 50 cm deep, into which young plants are placed.

If you plant wisteria from seeds, then the vine will not begin to bloom soon. IN best case after 5 years, but very often only by the age of 10.

wisteria care

Wisteria care begins with a garter of young shoots. Since the vine grows for a long time and has a high windage, the support must be durable and able to withstand wind loads.

Advice. It is best to tie a wisteria to the support, because independent weaving around the support can lead to the fact that in the fall it will be very difficult to remove the vine in preparation for winter.

The soil should not be calcareous, otherwise the wisteria leaves will brighten and lose their decorative effect.

Watering. Too wet soil can cause the plant to drop leaves and buds. Therefore, moderation in watering should be observed from the beginning of flowering until the end of summer. In the summer, additional spraying can be carried out so as not to once again fill the roots with water. In September, watering should be minimized and the plant should be allowed to prepare for winter.

The soil around the wisteria should not be too waterlogged.

Pruning. Very important condition flowering of wisteria is timely and correctly carried out pruning. Wisteria flowers develop on last year's and even earlier vines. Sometimes on young shoots of this year. Therefore, for the correct formation of color buds at the beginning of summer or at the end of May (depending on the flowering season of wisteria), the shoots of the previous year are shortened, leaving no more than 30 cm.

In autumn, the shoots of the new season are cut off, cutting off 4 buds. Then in early spring, while tying the liana to the support, last year's shoots are reduced by another 2 buds. By following these simple pruning rules, you will achieve the most decorative and lush flowering, which is so valued in wisteria.

pruning wisteria

Preparing for winter. Many varieties of wisteria are preferably covered for the winter, especially in the northern regions. Young shoots are considered the most vulnerable. In autumn, it is recommended to untie them from the support and lay them on the ground. The root part is added dropwise with a thick layer of earth, and the shoots are covered with spruce branches, a layer of leaves or a special covering material. The older the plant becomes, the higher its frost resistance, respectively, the less it needs winter shelter.

Scheme: pruning and shaping vines

Advice. At severe frosts some of the young shoots still die, but you should not be upset because of this, because this is exactly the material that is to be pruned.

Fertilizer and top dressing wisteria

It is impossible to take your eyes off the photo with blooming wisterias. To achieve the same flowering on your vine, you should pay a little attention to top dressing. During active life, it is recommended to fertilize wisteria at least once a week, while liquid fertilizers are best. mineral fertilizers alternate with organic ones (for example, with mullein infusion diluted with water in a ratio of 1:20). A one-time top dressing in the summer can make a chalky solution. To do this, dilute 100 g of chalk in a bucket warm water and water the plant under the root.

No need to feed wisteria too often

Advice. Experienced gardeners remind that wisteria refers to leguminous plants Therefore, you need to be careful with nitrogen-containing fertilizers.

Propagation of wisteria

There are many ways to propagate this beautiful vine.

The easiest way to propagate wisteria is cuttings. In late autumn, the vine is cut off from the bush, cut into cuttings, tied and cleaned in a cool place, after being buried in a damp base. In early spring, the vine is taken out of the basement and planted under plastic bottles. It can be planted both in a cold greenhouse, and immediately to a permanent place of deployment. Approximately half of the planted cuttings will take root.

In December, you can try to propagate wisteria vaccination. It must be done exclusively on the roots, because the wood of the vine is too soft, and it will not be possible to graft.

Wisteria is well propagated by cuttings.

Enough effective method breeding is rooting layering. In the fall, when all the leaves fall off, the lowest shoots are slightly scarred, tilted to the ground and sprinkled with soil so that only the tops remain on the surface. Shoots are ringed from the side of the mother bush in the spring, when the buds begin to appear. And in the fall, it is necessary to check whether the root system of layering has developed sufficiently. If the roots have not yet grown sufficiently, then the layers are left in this form for another year. If the root system has developed enough, then the layers are dug up and planted in a new place.

Also common is the method of reproduction. winter cuttings. February is considered the best time for this. The shoot prepared in advance must be split lengthwise into two parts and the resulting halves cut into cuttings. The length of the cutting is about 5 cm, and in the center of each there must be a kidney. The cuttings are planted in boxes, maintaining a small distance between them, and the soil is sprinkled with sand on top. The boxes are stored in the greenhouse until rooting.

Young creeper

Another way that brings almost 100% results is reproduction. this year's shoots. In order for the root system to form faster, the lower edges of the cuttings must be treated with synthetic phytohormones in accordance with the instructions. After the cuttings have stood in the solution for 12 hours, they are washed running water and planted in a greenhouse with a loose substrate prepared from equal parts of sand, earth and peat. You can plant petioles in boxes that need to be covered with glass and put in a light shade and watered once a day, maintaining sufficient soil moisture. When the first shoots appear, they switch to moderate watering (once every three days). In the fall, they are transferred to a sunny place or shading is removed.

wisteria seeds

Propagation of wisteria seeds many gardeners consider it ineffective, because the flowering of such vines may not begin, or begin only after a few years. Yes and decorative properties very rarely saved. However, some shoots from seeds give unexpected results and young vines outshine the mother ones in their decorative qualities. Such findings are subsequently used for selection.

Seeds are sown in a greenhouse in the middle of winter. When sowing directly into open ground, it is best to do so in early spring. Seeds germinate late. However, this method of propagation also has its advantages - plants grown from seeds from the first days are adapted to natural surprises and are much more stable and hardy.

Pests and diseases of wisteria

Wisteria is quite resistant to diseases, but from time to time it is subjected to aphid occupation, which can be easily corrected with an insecticide. Some gardeners also noticed the raids of the clover mite, which is successfully destroyed by acaricidal preparations. Of the diseases, chlorosis can overcome wisteria if you place your vine on alkaline soil. This disease can be identified by yellowing and falling leaves. As a treatment, it is necessary to make fertilizing with iron salts.

clover mite

Wisteria in the garden

The flowering of wisteria is an unforgettable whirlpool of colors, in which long brushes of many shades - blue, red, white - rush down like an unrestrained waterfall, exuding a sweet aroma. In Japan, walking through a wisteria garden is like walking through paradise.

Perennial flowers can be planted under the wisteria

Very often in landscape design wisteria is used as vertical gardening site. Despite the fact that the liana occupies a minimum of space, its decorative effect is exceptional. With its help, they decorate unsightly walls, fences and any other buildings and technical structures that can spoil the overall appearance. This vine will help zone areas, acting as a screen and creating natural shelters from the sun and wind. To create an original ensemble, try planting wisteria and at the base. Will look good against the background of wisteria, white or wolfberry. Numerous photos will tell you how best to decorate your garden with this beautiful creeper.

Unpretentious in care, wisteria is able to please the eye of any fastidious gardener.

How to cut wisteria correctly: video

Wisteria: photo




Can be planted in the garden as well as indoor plant, but this method is rarely used. Mostly grown lush and Chinese wisteria.

Wisteria seedlings are planted in spring and summer. It is better if these are annual shoots from 25 cm long. You need to dig in the garden hole up to 20 cm deep. Lay in it nutrient soil, humus and mineral fertilizers 25 grams per square meter area. Water daily 2 liters. It is better to cover the soil with fresh grass, this will keep the soil moist. A warm, well-lit and wind-sheltered place will do.

At first, long thin shoots are formed, so that immediately it does not bloom and does not show any signs of life. Her luxurious flowering you will be able to observe only in 5-10 years.

Temperature

Wisteria is extremely thermophilic and grows mainly in tropical latitudes. Most comfortable temperature plus 18 degrees, will not survive if the temperature drops below minus 20 degrees Celsius. drop her off better in spring or in summer, and if planted in a greenhouse, then in November and December.

soil for growing

Before planting seeds at home, loosen the soil, mix with humus, sand, peat, clay and soddy soil in the ratio 1:1:1:3. It almost does not tolerate calcareous and damp soil, so it is good if there is a water outlet. If the climate allows, it is better to grow wisteria in the garden in the same soil. Although any garden fertilized soil will do.

Photo

Below you can see a photo Chinese flower:

When and how to transplant?


It is recommended to replant every year in July young plant. Already adult wisteria once every 3 years. At home for transplanting, you will need a clay pot 3-4 cm larger than the previous one in circumference. It is better if you wash it thoroughly or scald it with boiling water.

Water the plant the day before transplanting. An earthen mixture can be bought, taking into account the needs of wisteria. Close the holes at the bottom with pieces chipped off the brick. From above you need expanded clay and sand, then cover with earth about 2 cm.

Then flip old container with the plant and carefully pull it out, preferably without touching root system. Separate it from excess earth, put it on a layer of soil in a new pot. Fill the space between the walls and the plant with slightly damp earth, distributing it with a stick. The wisteria should sit in the middle at the same depth as in the original pot. At the end of the transplant, water a little more than usual and place in a slightly dark place. After a while, look at the state, put the tree in its original place and create the usual conditions that were before the transplant.

If the plant grows in the garden, transplant only when absolutely necessary. Completely mature it is better not to transplant at all.

Care and prerequisites

The tree must provide the following conditions:

  • Warm and bright light, well, if it will be the sun;
  • Create a support along which the plant will grow;
  • Watering, keep the soil slightly moist, does not tolerate excess water;
  • Suitable and nutritious soil;
  • Mandatory top dressing liquid fertilizer, is important during the period of bud ripening;
  • Warm and reliable shelter in frost, protect from cold wind;
  • Lush flowers require pruning when the tree has faded and after the leaves have fallen. cut off side shoots more than half.

If you often prune the shoots, then you can ensure that the tree takes on a miniature and decorative look.

 
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