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How to make a concrete countertop. We make a concrete countertop with our own hands: a detailed master class Epoxy resin for pouring a countertop

Hello Dear Friends!

This article will talk about working with resin in the manufacture of a table or countertop:

• For transparent products, a new generation of resin must be used: MG EPOX STRONG
• For color (designer and single color) : MG EPOX WHITE (no longer available)

As for hot items: it is strictly forbidden to put pans, pots taken off the stove!!!

Making a table / tabletop with your own hands from epoxy resin:

Where to start, of course, with surface preparation, because, as in any other business, high-quality preparation is the key to success. The blank of the future product must be exhibited in horizontal position with maximum precision, otherwise sagging may occur.

IMPORTANT!!!

When we make an object in a horizontal position, there is a possibility of unwanted objects getting into the resin mass, such as: hair, eyelashes, residues of dried paint on special sleeves. clothes, etc.

Specialist. cloth:

• paper painting suit
• rubber gloves (gloves are very important point because there is hair on the fingers
• a headdress, a shower cap is suitable for these purposes.

Consider the three most popular options for making countertops:

• monochrome
• combined colors
• with fillers and decorative attachments to the resin mass

Single color:

1. The application surface must be dry and clean
2. If the surface is absorbent, for example, made of wood (), then it should first be abundantly primed with resin to cover the pores. If this is not done, then when pouring with resin, it will begin to be absorbed and air bubbles will crawl out.
3. Now we take the resin and dyes, get the desired shade and pour it onto the surface
4. Let it stand for 10-15 minutes and use a building hair dryer or burner to remove air bubbles.
5. Leave for 48 hours, then you can grind and polish (if required). Full set of strength 7 days at room temperature.

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Combined colors:

1. Everything is the same as in the one-color application, but other colors are added.

with fillers and decorative attachments to the resin mass:

This production is the most responsible and demanding attention of the master!!!

1. we have already talked about a dry and clean base, now it is worth noting that decorative attachments and fillers must also be 100% dry. Sometimes customers ask what will happen if you pour a slice of lemon, a fresh rose, moss, etc. We answer: if the filler is not dried, then whitishness will appear at the moment of contact between wet objects and the resin, this is the reaction of the resin with water.
2. Light attachments must be glued to the base, otherwise they will float. If the fillers and decors do not have high altitude, let's say 1-5 mm, then you can pour the resin at a time.
3. If tall and complex objects () are used as decor and filler, such as: stones, spanners, chain etc. objects that have texture and recesses, then you should be patient and fill in several operations. Filling of intermediate layers is recommended to be done no later than 48 hours.
4. When pouring layers, the state of the resin should be monitored, because. in some cases, there are recesses and pores in the poured objects and decors, the resin gradually penetrates into these places and squeezes out the air, respectively, the bubbles rise to the top and must be removed by heating (hair dryer, burner). This resin penetration process can take up to three hours depending on the structure of the item. The easiest way is to pre-dip or smear the object with quality resin, and then immerse or pour resin.

After applying the last layer of resin, the product needs to gain strength, at room temperature this happens in 7 days, you can speed up the process of curing by placing in a thermal chamber, optimum temperature 25°C, thus curing occurs in 3-4 days.

An example of processing objects with resin and pouring:

Photo gallery: epoxy resin tables and countertops:

Handmade products at all times aroused admiration and respect. On our own, each of us can make unique, inimitable things, decor and household items, furniture. At the same time, a person does not need any special knowledge or skills. Enough great desire, imagination, ideas, devices, equipment of substances, which can act as improvised means, as well as the hands of the master acquired and naturally.

Recently, for about a couple of three years, it has been especially popular among craftsmen. This is an excellent substance for creating various interior items, in particular a table, and to be quite precise, countertops. It is not necessary to use the services of professionals and place an order for manufacturing in the workshop. All the same you can do without outside help. It remains only to be patient and provide yourself with a place for creativity.

How to choose the right chemicals

Any production begins with the purchase of consumable raw materials. In our case, the main thing is to choose epoxy directly for this product. Since it will take a lot, we immediately exclude expensive options such as brands for optics and jewelry.

There are several fundamental rules that will help you make the right purchase.

1. Transparency must be complete. This provides an opportunity to realize the most daring projects. The product will look perfect if you install the backlight from below. To do this, you can take a phosphor or led strip. It will also look good to tint with color while maintaining transparency or the substrate of any other materials, such as wood. As for people with experience, they create real masterpieces in the form of 3D figures.
2. Slow curing is another condition. This feature allows you to form various patterns at different stages of solidification or tint the future masterpiece with fragments. Filling is done when the mass is in liquid state. Parts are formed when it acquires viscosity.
3. Loss of volume at the time of solidification is excluded.
4. The low viscosity is necessary so that bubbles do not form during mixing.

Preparatory stage before starting activities

To start implementing the idea, you first need to prepare. We will need:

• working room with room, low, temperature (ideally temperature regime should be higher, then the work will end much faster) and the optimal amount of free time;
• raw materials for creating a special template (plastic with low porosity, acrylic, polyethylene);
• grouts, as well as (plasticine to grout cracks, paraffin or well-known petroleum jelly, so that the resin mixture can be easily removed from the matrix);
• measuring containers in which to place the hardener and epoxy. According to all the rules, the main component must be weighed, for which purpose specially provided scales are used, which, unfortunately, not everyone has. Modern manufacturers have taken care of the permissibility of fluctuations in proportions, which allows you to measure the components by volume;
• voluminous dishes intended for mixing, as well as necessary equipment, building mixer;
• tools for grinding (it is recommended to use a grinder with a set of different-grained skins);
• a set consisting directly of the epoxy itself and a hardener;
• diverse additives, including phosphors and pigments;
• details for the decor of the future finished product, which include slabs (processed wooden layers, their edges are unprocessed). This also applies to quartz sand. different colors, which provides the effect of a "stone" surface when polished, balls of multi-colored glass, bottle caps and much more.

This approach to production allows you to save quite a lot of money.

Order of actions

As with any material, equipment, first of all, you need to study the instructions. This way you can avoid mistakes and rather unpleasant surprises. After reviewing the instructions and recommendations, having learned the theory, you can proceed to practical tasks.

Some useful information

To help the home craftsman, experts offer some simple but important tips.

1. Workplace before starting labor activity it is desirable to cover plastic wrap. If during the work the epoxy gets on it and hardens, it is extremely difficult to remove it.
2. Remember that your workshop should be clean, dust-free.
3. Do not allow water to enter the working mixture. It can hurt.
4. How more material, the faster it freezes. With a fill thickness of 1-2 cm, it will be possible to start further work after a day. A thin layer of 1 mm does not always completely harden even after two or three days.
5. To speed up the hardening process, the room is often heated. It is better not to do this until the resin thickens.
6. Ideally, choose brands for work that are characterized by low viscosity.
7. Remember that worst enemy such a product remains ultraviolet radiation especially direct sunlight. When dyeing (adding dye), the level of exposure to light becomes much lower.

Pros and cons of epoxy resin countertops

Epoxy resin, in terms of the purpose of its application, is a very multifunctional material: a huge number of a wide variety of products are made from it - from small jewelry to floors, other surfaces and massive worktops. It is the latter that will be discussed today.

Epoxy resin is, in fact, a complex consisting of two certain types raw materials: the resin itself and the hardener for it. After mixing the resin with a hardener, the same solid material. Resin can fill the bumps of the old table, as well as cover the surface with a certain ornament or composition.

The main advantages of epoxy resin countertops:

• - Do not shrink, so that the surface after drying the resin will be perfectly flat.
• - Well resists any mechanical impact: dents, cuts, scratches, bumps, etc.
• - Differs in the increased moisture resistance.
• - Resistant to modern chemical cleaning agents.
• - With the use of dyes and additional protection, it is immune to the harmful effects of ultraviolet rays.
• - If the transparent epoxy resin KER 828 is used for pouring, the countertop will not need expensive maintenance.

The main disadvantages of epoxy resin countertops:

• - May release harmful substances at high temperatures.
• - Care must be taken when working with epoxy resin.

However, all shortcomings are easily leveled. So that the resin does not emit toxic substances, it is enough just to cover the finished epoxy resin countertop with varnish. And when working, it is enough to observe simple measures precautions: work in a ventilated area and use personal chemical protection equipment - a respirator and gloves.

Types of epoxy resin countertops KER 828

1. Tabletop made without a supporting surface.

Or, as they call countertops, which are made entirely of epoxy resin. That is, we pour resin not on any support - a piece of wood, old table etc., but pour the resin directly into the mold. Thus, our finished product will be a solidified epoxy resin monolith.

2. Tabletop made with a supporting surface.

IN this case an already prepared surface is poured with resin - chipboard, an old table, furniture, a piece of timber, etc. In pursuit of interesting ideas, many craftsmen pour entire dioramas, creating interesting conceptual products. Finished countertops of this format look very lively and interesting.

3. Combined type of countertop.

Another interesting view pouring countertops with epoxy resin. As a rule, it is used when the base, which is poured with resin, is not a whole product, but is significantly supplemented with epoxy raw materials, creating bizarre shapes. For example, this may look like a countertop, in the monolith of which is enclosed wooden beam or the like.

Making an epoxy resin countertop

Epoxy resin countertops, cast as a monolith without a base, look very impressive due to their transparency, fancy colors (if a dye was used) and inclusions of decorative elements.

First of all, you need to make calculations - how much resin you need to make your product. To do this, it is necessary to calculate the volume of the cavities into which the resin will be poured, and based on this, knead the required amount of raw materials.

In order to make such a countertop, we will need to assemble the formwork - a form into which the resin will be poured.

First, you will need to select the glass elements you need along the length, thoroughly clean them and degrease them. Then the glass is assembled into a form - formwork. It is important that there are no cracks, flashes and holes in the joints of the glass, through which the epoxy mole can pour out of the mold. You can fix the glasses together using spring construction clamps, and cover up the gaps with ordinary plasticine from the outside of the formwork so as not to violate the internal contours of the corners.

If you are working with a base that you plan to pour resin on, please note that it must be completely dry and clean before pouring. This will provide best level adhesion in the final product.

Then all the internal surfaces of our formwork must be treated with a release agent. It is important to lubricate all areas that our KER 828 clear epoxy will come into contact with during casting.

After our formwork is assembled and prepared for casting, it is necessary to deal directly with the epoxy itself.

As a rule, in the case of transparent epoxy resin KER 828, you need to add the hardener to the raw material in a percentage - 10% of the hardener from the total weight of the resin. After adding the hardener, the mixture must be thoroughly mixed, but this must be done smoothly so that excess air does not form in the raw material. The hardener itself must be added according to the application technology, because if the hardener is not enough, the polymerization process may not go through, and therefore our resin will not harden. But if you add too much hardener, then the resin will “boil”, becoming unsuitable for further use.

Also, on this stage a variety of dyes and additives can be mixed into the resin.

So, when everything is ready, let's start casting!

It is necessary to pour the resin slowly, slowly, at one point. With this casting technology, the resin itself will displace the formed air bubbles under the pressure of its mass. You also need to remember that when casting KER 828 transparent epoxy resin, the maximum casting layer must be observed. It is equal to 2.5 cm. If there is more layer in one pour, then the resin can also “boil”, be careful! You can make a thicker layer of the countertop through layer-by-layer pouring. But for this you will need to wait until the previous layer is completely polymerized.

Complete polymerization, or hardening of the resin occurs within 2-3 days. At this time, it is impossible to remove the product from the formwork. But after this time, you can disassemble the formwork.

At this stage, you just need to finish the job. Namely - to do the grinding part. Remember to work in a ventilated area using individual funds respiratory protection!

Conclusion

Thus, anyone can make a tabletop from KER 828 transparent epoxy resin. For this, it is not necessary to have any exclusive knowledge in the field. carpentry and have a knack experienced master. However, the final products - epoxy resin countertops, which will come out from under the hands of a novice master, will also look dignified and beautiful. The main thing is to follow the rules of work and casting technology.

You will succeed, keep it up!

The epoxy resin table is the crowning achievement of the modern furniture industry. For many years now, such tables have been a luxury item that can truly decorate. The editors of the site have worked in this direction, collecting detailed information about what an epoxy table is, what types it is, and how you can make it yourself from improvised materials.

Looking at one or the other building material, you always wonder how good it is, and whether its advantages really outweigh all the disadvantages. The positive qualities of epoxy resin are as follows:

• increased strength to mechanical damage and moisture resistance;
• long service life;
• ease of care;
• the possibility of implementing various design solutions;
• availability for independent work- only a little skill and knowledge of a certain technology is required;
• low cost - epoxy resin for pouring countertops is relatively inexpensive, if we consider it on a par with, solid wood or . And in terms of quality characteristics, they are in no way inferior.

Epoxy resin is not an ideal material in every sense. Products from it also have disadvantages:

• sensitivity to processing by any abrasive compounds - remain unpleasant;
• improperly prepared resin can subsequently disrupt the quality of the final product;
• some types of epoxy resins are not resistant to ultraviolet radiation and eventually begin to give off yellowness;
• release of toxins. They begin to be released into the atmosphere only after prolonged contact with high temperatures, so you should not be afraid to put a hot dish or cup on an epoxy table. But soldering on such countertops or burning them is highly discouraged.

Note! Epoxy resin does not ignite or melt even when in contact with an open flame. But it will poison the air pretty much.

Types of epoxy resin tables and their features

Looking closely at buying an epoxy resin table and considering the prices, you come to the conclusion: in fact, they are all similar to each other. And such products can be divided into several groups.

Epoxy resin countertops without backing

The epoxy table top is a separately manufactured element that can become both part of the table and in.

You can simply buy an epoxy resin countertop and install it on your support base. It remains only to choose right size and advantageous design.

Epoxy resin, wood and other supporting elements

Epoxy resin countertops are also made on any supporting structures. Most often it is a base made of metal, plastic or solid wood. Someone manages to adapt the bases from old stools and as a support for countertops.

As a rule, craftsmen, for greater reliability, make the supporting elements and the countertop a single whole, pouring epoxy directly on them into a pre-installed formwork.

Wooden table with additional filling and epoxy resin

tables from wooden elements and epoxies are incredibly popular today. At the same time, in many designer models there is nothing extraordinary - just beautiful (sometimes ugly beautiful) pieces of wood, whole wooden arrays filled with resin. For example, like the tables made of wood and epoxy in the photo below.

In such interesting tables other decoration elements can be added: phosphorus for a night glow, sea pebbles, glass, sparkles, shells - only the imagination of the creators will be the limitation here.

Note! Light objects must be glued to the base, otherwise they will float when pouring!

Table made of slab and epoxy resin - style and incredible beauty

Making tables from wood, or rather from slab and epoxy resin, is the trend of the season. First of all, because the slab - saw cut wood - has a unique texture, shape and pattern. It's like fingerprints: there are no identical cuts, each one is unique in its own way. Therefore, products made from them are highly valued by both aesthetes and manufacturers.

1 of 5

Making such a table or countertop yourself is not so difficult. You just need to choose the right slab and fill it with a transparent or colored epoxy resin.

Epoxy resin river table

A table made of liquid glass and wood, the so-called "river", deserves special attention. In fact, these are two slabs, between which epoxy is poured. blue color perfectly imitating the waters of a clean river. Some models also have, completely covering the entire surface. Here, as they say, the taste and color.

Some craftsmen add phosphorus to the epoxy, which turns such a table into a kind of night light. Tabletops with the so-called multi-stage slab look especially interesting, giving mystery and depth. You can also buy tables with fish, reefs and entire marine colonies inside epoxy filler. But such products are rare. It's easier to make such beauty yourself.

Related article:

: properties, composition, characteristics, selection of the right components and options for using different solvents and plasticizers, instructions for use and an overview of current prices - read in the publication.

If you decide to buy a table made of wood and epoxy resin: we focus on a review of prices and basic quality criteria

Eh, to love - so the queen, to steal - so a million, to buy a table - so from epoxy! If you are an adherent of just such views, then pay attention to the small nuances when choosing such furniture, so that later you do not complain about armless craftsmen.

It should be noted right away that any epoxy furniture is handmade. Therefore, the risk of marriage is great. Still, the human factor in the manufacture of such furniture plays a decisive role. What should be a quality epoxy table:

• no chips, cracks, abrasions and other defects - even the smallest ones. We are not shy and look under the countertop;
• we look at the thickness of the countertop - it should be the same on all sides. No slopes and distortions;
• we carefully look at the epoxy - no bubbles, no matter how the seller explains that this is all as it should be for greater decorativeness. Air bubbles in the hardened epoxy resin are a sign of the wrong technology for working with it, this drastically reduces the quality of the final product;
• you need glass on the surface or not - you decide. Keep in mind that the glass on the countertop is the most short-lived element, unlike epoxy and wood.

As already noted, epoxy resin tables are handmade. And that means that such an exclusive will cost a lot. For example, small coffee tables you can buy in the price range from 11,000 to 30,000 rubles - or more. Dining and office tables cost from 50,000 rubles - it all depends on the model and prices of the master. The prices shown are current as of September 2018.

Epoxy table manufacturing technology

For those whose hands itch to make their own epoxy table, we will show you how to do it correctly and inexpensively.

How to choose an epoxy resin for a table - reviews and recommendations

After reviewing a bunch of videos about how easy and simple it is to work with epoxy resin, you just want to make a tabletop with your own hands. Just from what? For a beginner in this field, the choice of epoxy can be confusing. What types and brands do not exist!

"ED-20"- one of the popular and inexpensive resins used both for pouring furniture and for decorations. Popularity deserved by its low cost. This plus is balanced by a minus - the yellowness of products. Of course, yellowness is not acquired immediately, but over time, and only if the poured resin fell under the influence of direct sun rays. It is also characterized by increased ductility, which is not good when working with resin, especially for beginners. To solve such problems, you can purchase an epoxy plasticizer - for example, EpoxyMax DBP.

Feedback on the plasticizer for epoxy resin DBP EpoxyMax:

Read more on Otzovik: https://otzovik.com/review_4632884.html .

"Art-Eco"- crystal clear and transparent resin, designed to work with products of small thickness, including countertops. When working, it is recommended to use hardeners. Of the negative points, yellowness is noted on transparent products under direct sunlight. This disadvantage is eliminated by the use of dyes, which can also be purchased from this manufacturer.

"QTP-1130" – perfect option for pouring tables and countertops, provided that the thickness of the epoxy layer is no more than 3 mm. It is easy to work with it - no additional plasticizers and hardeners are needed. It has self-leveling, which is very convenient for beginners.

"EP-SM-PRO"- inexpensive composite epoxy resin. Good for working with wood. It mixes uniformly, practically no bubbles appear, transparency is good, it solidifies to the end and relatively quickly. It has a liquid consistency, which must be taken into account when forming the formwork - it can leak even through small cracks.

Feedback on working with epoxy resin Composite project EP-SM-PRO:

Read more on Otzovik: https://otzovik.com/review_6214951.html

PEO-610KE, EpoxyMaster 2.0, EpoxAcast 690. Products made from these resins are not afraid and have crystal transparency. It is pleasant to work with such compositions - they are not viscous, they quickly and completely freeze, they have a slight tendency to self-leveling.

"ArtLine Crystal Epoxy"– suitable for working both with jewelry and for filling small thickness tables. Liquid, transparent, well leveled with a spatula. Products are transparent and without distortion. Bubbles practically do not form and are easily removed. It does not have a very good reaction with some types of dried flowers. If you work with just such a filling, determine in advance whether there is a conflict between the epoxy and the herbarium. Feedback on the use of a similar epoxy resin is below.

Feedback on the use of epoxy resin "ArtLine Crystal Epoxy":

Read more on Otzovik: https://otzovik.com/review_6603877.html

"MG-EPOX-STRONG"- epoxy resin for universal purposes, more recommended for pouring countertops and tables. It has excellent quality and operational characteristics. It's a pleasure to work with her. Suitable for pouring thick tables and for working with various fillers - from weightless phosphorus to heavy pebbles and coins. At the same time, no yellowness, high mechanical strength and resistance to high temperatures.

1. A drawing is made, according to which the supporting structure, formwork and fillers, if any, are worked out in detail.
2. Depending on the type of epoxy resin chosen, the consistency and appropriate dilution proportions are selected for further work.

Note! Some compositions are not diluted, you can work with them almost immediately - and this leads to an increase in the cost of the final product.

Manufacturing of the supporting structure

In our small master class, we will look at how you can make simple materials available to everyone, resulting in designer furniture.

Illustration	Action Description
	You will need: two circles of wood, which will act as a stand, glue, preferably epoxy-based, a thick furniture border, epoxy itself and filler - beer caps. In our master class, a purchased design was used.
	Collecting supporting structure. Thoroughly degrease the surface and primer.

Formwork preparation and filling

We make the first fitting - we lay out the filler around the perimeter of the countertop in order to understand how thick the furniture tape should be glued.

Illustration	Action Description
	It all depends on the thickness of the decor, it is necessary that it be buried in epoxy by at least half.
	We carefully glue the tape on the table top, as this is not just a formwork, but part of our table.
	We lay out the decor on the countertop exactly as it will look in the final edition. We remember the location and remove everything.
	We take glue and apply it to the back of the lid.
	Glue all the covers to the countertop. We do this carefully, since each smudge of glue will be visible on a transparent surface.

Epoxy preparation

How to prepare epoxy resin - the instructions on the package will tell you. In our case, we used Epoxy Master 2.0. This is a two-component composition. If you need to add colors, add color only to component "A" until you get the desired shade. Mix thoroughly.

Note! In order for the pigment to dissolve better, put it for some time in a battery or in a water bath, the temperature of which will not be more than 40 ° C, but not less than 30 ° C. If the resin overheats, it can be thrown away.

Add component "B" - hardener, in a ratio of 100:35, as indicated in the instructions. Mix thoroughly. If bubbles suddenly form, then the resin can be heated with a hair dryer, while stirring until they evaporate. The shelf life of the resulting solution is approximately 7 hours.

How to pour epoxy on a countertop

The most important stage of work is pouring with resin. The most important thing here is to follow the instructions exactly. The diluted composition is carefully poured from the middle. Under the weight of its gravity, it will begin to level out. If the tabletop area is large, then expand the fill radius. When the entire volume to the edges of the formwork is filled, we carefully level the epoxy resin with a trowel. If the surface is not equal to the thickness of the formwork, add the missing grams as carefully as possible and level again. We leave our countertop to solidify to the end.

In principle, we got the final product, which you can use for your own pleasure. The use of Epoxy Master 2.0 does not imply final polishing of the item. But if you still need it, we recommend watching a video on how to make an epoxy resin table with your own hands.

Epoxy resin, although harmless in a solidified state, can cause irritation of the skin and mucous membranes in the working state. Therefore, we work with it only in rubber gloves. good quality– without the risk of sudden breaches. Such gloves will need to be discarded immediately after one pouring session.

Also, do not forget about glasses, a respirator. The latter may not be worn - it all depends on the type of epoxy used. Read the instructions carefully before buying. We also cover all parts of the body with clothes - no open skin. Be sure to work with epoxy only in well-ventilated areas where you and your household do not sleep and are not in a row for more than 5 hours. If the curing time of the resin is more than 3 days, dust and organic filters must be purchased.

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Every home owner has a desire to create a unique kitchen interior. Some try to use already finished projects, available in large numbers in design magazines. Some homeowners who have the opportunity to allocate substantial sums for the decoration of the kitchen turn to eminent designers who are able to develop an original interior design using exclusive materials. In such projects, designers often use marble slabs to decorate the room, from which they are made various items interior - worktops for work and dining table, bar counters, as well as window sills. However, the cost of such a finish is so high that it is not affordable for a homeowner with an average income. What to do if family budget does not allow you to allocate a significant amount for finishing the kitchen? How to add uniqueness to the room, but at the same time manage with the lowest possible costs? There is a simple solution to these questions: you can try to finish the kitchen by making interior items with your own hands.

A concrete countertop, at low cost, looks quite expensive and stylish.

The first step to creating an original kitchen interior will become a concrete countertop, which in its own way appearance almost indistinguishable from marble tiles.

Such a do-it-yourself tabletop will become the pride of its creator, and its cost is affordable even with a minimal budget.

Drawing development

First of all, you need to decide how the future table will look like and what its dimensions will be. In the manufacture of countertops for the kitchen, the edges of the surface must necessarily fit exactly against the walls. Since it is usual to install kitchen table where the sink is located, use the corner of the room, then you should make sure that it has correct form, that is, the walls converge at an angle of 90 °. If the angle has other dimensions, then it is necessary to take this into account even at the stage of drawing work.

Creating an accurate tabletop drawing is the most important stage of work, since the quality of the finished product depends on the thoroughness of its development. In the process of developing a drawing, it is necessary to provide for the creation of a countertop from several parts. The weight of the finished product in its entirety is large, so dividing it into parts during manufacture will make it easier to move and process them, and will also protect against cracking.

When making a table frame with your own hands, it is necessary to provide for the strengthening of its central part with transverse boards, as well as docking on them separate parts countertops. For the frame, hardwood boards are used. If desired, you can use ready-made cabinets with drawers. It all depends on the imagination of the home master.

Materials and tools

After completing the drawings according to the sketches prepared in advance, you should take care of purchasing the materials from which the original countertop will be made.

To work, you will need the following materials, the amount of which is determined by the size of the future product:

To make concrete countertops, you will need sheets of plywood.

• hardwood boards;
• plywood sheets;
• plastic sheets (sheet thickness 18 mm);
• cement and sand (in a ratio of 2: 3);
• small reinforcing mesh;
• polymer concrete made on acrylic resins;
• silicone sealant;
• glue spray;
• decorative components ( broken glass, small pebbles, shells);
• coloring pigment (if you want to get a colored countertop).

It is impossible to do without the tools necessary to create a tabletop with your own hands. Therefore, care should be taken to prepare the following tools:

A screwdriver makes a mold for casting a countertop and mounting a frame.

• electric Grinder with reinforced insulation against moisture;
• set of polishing wheels;
• tool for (trowel, trowel, leveler);
• screwdriver (required when making a mold for casting countertops and mounting the frame);
• wood saw;
• building level.

Form creation

The quality of the cast billet fully depends on the accuracy of this stage of work. For the base of the form are used plastic sheets, and along their perimeter a side is mounted, the height of which must be at least 50 mm. It is this thickness that a layer of concrete should be in order to provide the necessary strength of the countertop.

All joints of the form must be filled silicone sealant. If the countertop provides for the installation of a sink and a tap, then at this stage it is necessary to take care of the place for their installation. The hole for the pipe is made very simply - for this, in right place it is necessary to install a ring from a PVC pipe, previously wrapped in polyethylene.

After the concrete hardens, the pipe is easily removed from the finished structure. The place intended for the installation of the sink is fenced with sides, it will remain free. If the countertop has rounded corners, then silicone inserts can be used for this.

It's not that hard to make them. In the corners of the form are installed plastic glasses or rings and free space filled with silicone sealant. After it hardens plastic products are removed. Now inner part forms should be lubricated with machine oil (you can use drying oil) to prevent the solution from sticking.

If the use of decorative elements is envisaged, then they should be evenly distributed along the bottom of the finished form, fixing them with a spray adhesive. Then, at a height of 25 mm, a wire mesh is attached, giving the product strength. It is used as reinforcement.

Preparation of concrete solution

After the form is ready, you can start mixing the solution. The main components of the solution: cement M 500 and clean river sand. First of all, 1 part of cement and 3 parts of sand are mixed. It is possible to add a small amount of fine gravel. Then concrete plasticizer and water are added to the resulting mixture. Ready solution should be in the form of a paste or cream.

The concrete mixture is made from M500 cement, sand and water.

If you want to get colored concrete, you should add a special coloring pigment to it. If a uniform color is needed, then the pigment is added to the dry mix, and to obtain characteristic "granite" stains, the pigment is diluted with water and added to the finished concrete solution.

Before proceeding with the pouring of the solution, the form is set in a strictly horizontal position with a horizontal level check. Ready, thoroughly mixed solution is carefully poured into the prepared mold in several steps.

The surface of the mold is covered with a film and aged for at least 10 days. Then the film is removed, and the form is disassembled into its component parts. Further processing of the product can be carried out after another week. During this period, the concrete blank, created by oneself, will dry completely.

Grinding and polishing

The grinding process takes place in several stages. Initially, a coarse grinding disc is used, processing all sides of the workpiece with it. However, more attention is paid to the front side, previously located at the bottom of the countertop mold.

To give the table top smooth surface, it is polished with a hard drive.

With the help of rough processing, irregularities are removed, the pores close to the surface are opened, and the surface becomes visible. decorative elements(if used). After rough grinding, the surface is treated with a prepared mixture consisting of an acrylic sealant and a small amount of cement.

This mixture, with its consistency resembling sour cream, is evenly applied to the surface. At the same time, the revealed voids are filled. After some time, the mixture shrinks, so it is applied again, and the excess is removed.

After drying, the surface is sanded again, but the disc is now used with at least 50 abrasive units. If necessary, another treatment with an acrylic mixture is carried out, and then the final grinding is performed using a 100 abrasive disc.

The last step in making a tabletop with your own hands is polishing the product. When polishing, grinding discs are used alternately, having abrasiveness from 400 to 1500 units. The surface is polished slowly and thoroughly, while working it is necessary to constantly moisten the polishing wheels.

After the end of the polishing process, the surface of the tabletop created by oneself looks smooth and shiny. At first glance, it is difficult to distinguish from natural stone. final stage work is to treat the surface to protect it from contamination with a special sealant and install the finished countertop in the place intended for it.

A do-it-yourself countertop can be supplemented with window sills made in the same way, which will give originality to the interior of the kitchen. If the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room allows, then you can create a flower container that imitates natural stone.