Lily diseases and their control. Brown spots on lilies
Nutritious bulbs of lilies are very fond of not only rodents, but also more small pests. In addition, succulent stems and fleshy leaves of plants infect viral and fungal diseases that spoil appearance flowers and can even completely destroy them.
To cure a lily, first of all, it is necessary to correctly determine the cause of its damage. Read this article to learn how to determine which pest has settled on your beauties, as well as distinguish between fungal and viral diseases.
Fungal diseases of lilies
Lily is affected by fungal infections found in many flower crops. The spread of rot is promoted by high humidity, improper care, lack of preventive measures.
Of all fungal diseases gray rot- the most dangerous. Initially, the disease strikes lower leaves plants, but very quickly covers all parts of the flower.
signs
The first signs of gray rot are brown round spots, which in the process of development are transformed into brown mucous tissue with a gray coating. Gray rot spreads in rainy and damp weather, as well as with sudden changes in temperature. Affected lilies do not die, but only slow down in growth and lose their decorative effect.
Control measures
It is difficult to stop the disease, since the pathogen overwinters in bulbs and plant debris. Therefore, before planting, the bulbs must be soaked in a 0.5-1% solution of the TMTD disinfectant or in a 0.25-0.5% suspension of Fundazol. When the first signs of the disease occur, the flowers are treated once every 1-1.5 weeks with a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid or another fungicide (Fundazol, Hom, Oksikh).
Fusarium
Fusarium is a rot that affects the bottom of the lily bulb. A plant that develops normally during the growing season dies during wintering. The cause of the disease is dampness, application organic fertilizers containing spores of the fungus.
signs
Fungal infection begins at the bottom of the bulb. In the place where the scales are attached to it, the lily bulb turns brown and falls apart. It is almost impossible to recognize this disease on a growing flower, since it can develop normally due to supra-bulbous roots that are not damaged by the fungus. However, in winter the plant is doomed to inevitable death.
Control measures
Disinfect the soil blue vitriol and formalin 2-3 weeks before planting the bulbs. Soak the bulbs themselves for half an hour in a 0.2% solution of Fundazol. Spray plantings every 1-1.5 weeks with a 0.1% solution of Fundazol or Bavistin. It is also possible to carry out treatments with a 0.2% solution of Topsin-M or Euparen.
Phytium is a disease of lilies that causes rotting of the roots, as a result of which the development of the culture is disrupted: the plant receives less nutrients and moisture. The affected lily loses its decorative effect, blooms weakly.
signs
The tops of the leaves turn yellow, the lily dries. The roots of the bulb are covered with brown spots.
Control measures
Remove affected plant parts. Before planting, disinfect the soil with a 0.4% solution of colloidal sulfur, soak the bulbs for half an hour in a 0.2% solution of Fundazol.
Blue mold infects bulbs during storage.
signs
White spots of hyphae of the fungus with a greenish coating on the bulbs. When digging up the bulbs, you can see that they have turned yellow, and their roots have died.
Control measures
Rejection of diseased bulbs. Compliance with storage rules. Ventilation and disinfection of storage.
Penicillosis
Penicillosis affects all parts of the lilies and provokes their decay.
signs
Bulbs, flowers, stems are covered green coating. Sick plants lag behind in growth, form weak flower stalks.
Control measures
Observe storage rules. When the first signs appear, pickle the affected bulbs in a 0.2% solution of potassium permanganate.
Rust
This disease is transmitted through plant debris contaminated with fungal spores.
signs
The first signs of the disease are small colorless spots that turn yellow over time. Red spore pads appear on the surface of the spots. As a result, the stems and leaves of lilies dry up.
Control measures
Remove and burn affected leaves. Spray the plants with a 0.2% solution of Zineb and regularly feed with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. Re-plant lilies in the area where the bulbs affected by rust grew, not earlier than after 3 years.
Lily virus diseases
Viral bulbous diseases are spread by insect pests (aphids and thrips) or flower growers themselves through an infected garden tools.
Cucumber and tobacco mosaic viruses
A fairly common disease of lilies, which is carried by aphids.
signs
Viruses of cucumber and tobacco mosaic appear as light strokes and annular spots on leaves and flowers. As a result of the defeat, the stem of the lily is deformed and stops growing.
Control measures
Regularly inspect lilies and remove suspicious leaves, destroy specimens affected by mosaics. Disinfect garden tools. In order to combat the carrier of the disease (aphids), spray plantings with a 0.3% solution of Karbofos.
Tulip variegation virus
This virus settles inside the cells of lilies. Most often, aphids from tulips are transferred.
signs
The variegation virus disrupts the pigmentation of the petals, resulting in flowers with strokes, strokes, spots of a different color. Sick bulbs of the next generation decrease in size, the plants weaken, the variety gradually degenerates.
Control measures
Spray plantings with a 0.3% solution of Karbofos to protect them from aphids. Regularly inspect lilies and remove suspicious leaves, destroy specimens affected by mosaics. Disinfect garden tools.
rosette disease
The occurrence of this disease in lilies provokes a whole complex of viruses.
signs
Lilies affected by this virus are characterized by thickening and yellowing of the stem and the absence of flowers.
Control measures
Spray plantings with a 0.3% solution of Karbofos to protect them from aphids. Regularly inspect lilies and remove suspicious leaves, destroy specimens affected by mosaics. Disinfect garden tools before any manipulations with bulbs and aerial parts of plants.
Lily pests
There are about 15 types of pests that infect lilies. These small insects weaken plants and are carriers of viruses. We list the most dangerous of them.
spider mite
This pest feeds on the juice of young shoots, which inhibits the growth of lilies. red eggs spider mite can live in the soil for up to 5 years.
signs
Lily leaves curl, the plant itself gradually dries up. On closer inspection, white eggs and adult red spider mites are visible on the leaves.
Control measures
If a pest is found, spray the plants soapy water, 0.2% solution of Karbofos or acaricide (Apollo, Aktofit, etc.).
Pisk beetle (lily beetle, bulbous rattle)
Bright red beetle-squeaker lays larvae on the leaves of lilies Pink colour, covered with green-brown mucus, which can deprive plants of almost all leaves.
signs
Visible to the naked eye larvae and adults of the pest.
Control measures
Spray the plants with a 0.2% solution of Karbofos or another insecticide (Inta-Vir, Decis).
A lily fly starts inside an unpainted lily bud. Damage will become noticeable when the fly larva has already done its "work" and pupates in the ground.
signs
Etched pistils and anthers of stamens in flowers.
Control measures
Destroy damaged buds. Spray the plants with a 0.2% solution of Karbofos or another insecticide (Ditox, EC, etc.).
Medvedka
Medvedka eats roots, bulbs and stems of lilies.
signs
The presence of a bear on the site can be seen from the holes in the soil. If you notice that the lily is dying, and numerous passages come to the surface of the earth around the plant, most likely the reason is the defeat of the bear.
Control measures
Arrange traps for the bear in the ground. For example, manure pits or slate shelters where the insect will crawl to bask and lay eggs. Collected in one place, the bear will be easy to destroy. In late autumn, you need to dig deep into the ground to destroy the wintering stages of the pest.
Khrushch (May beetle larva)
Like the bear, the beetle larva eats the underground parts of the flower, which leads to its death.
signs
White fleshy larvae are visible in the ground. In case of damage, the death of the plant occurs.
Control measures
Dig the soil deeply before planting, select the larvae of the beetle from it by hand.
This pest lays eggs on the soil surface in May-June. Young individuals hatch from the eggs, which are introduced into the bulb, causing it to rot.
signs
In late spring - early summer, small black flies begin to circle around the lilies, which hang in flight and make a characteristic murmuring sound. If you notice these pests, chances are they have already laid their larvae in the soil.
Control measures
Spray the plants with a 0.2% solution of Karbofos or another insecticide (Inta-Vir, etc.). In autumn, dig the ground, mulch with peat. Before planting the bulbs, powder with Bazudin.
To reduce the number of pests, planting lilies should be kept clean, maintain normal soil moisture, remove plant debris, destroy pests, spray plants with insecticides.
We hope that now, if suddenly your lilies start to "mope", you can easily determine the cause of their ill health, clearly identify the pest or disease and "declare war" on them in time. Take good care of your plants and don't let them get sick.
Care for lilies after flowering consists in cutting them and sheltering for the winter or digging up the bulbs and their proper storage. In early autumn, a survey of stems, leaves and bulbs is carried out.
When diseases are detected, flowers are treated. In order to prevent the occurrence of diseases, during the year the soil is enriched with fertilizers and regular feeding of lilies.
At the end of summer, lilies, with a natural lifestyle, fade. The stem and leaves turn yellow and fall off, and some of the roots die off. Garden lilies need to be prepared for winter.
Frost-resistant lilies are cut 15 cm from the root, sprinkled with a small layer of peat (up to 10 cm), covered with fallen leaves in autumn. Oriental hybrids lilies do not tolerate excess moisture. To avoid wetting the bulbs and roots during the spring snowmelt, plantings are covered with plastic wrap.
Trumpet and Orleans hybrids, some other lilies do not tolerate cold winter V middle lane. Their bulbs must be dug up. All lilies require repotting every 3-5 years. Their tubers also need to be dug up and stored.
When the lilies are dug up, they should not be left in the sun. The bulbs are immediately cleaned in a cool place. If the roots of the bulb dry out, then the flower will not sprout when planting. If the roots lie under sunbeams a short time, you need to cover them with wet rags and wait a while until they absorb water.
The bulbs with roots removed from the ground must be thoroughly washed and treated in a 0.2% solution of foundationazole. To store the bulbs, you need to choose a container, often this plastic bag with perforations. The bulbs are wrapped in it without tying and stored all winter at a temperature of 5 ° C.
Treatment and prevention of lilies from diseases and pests after flowering
Lilies, like other flowers, are susceptible to various diseases. Caring for lilies after flowering includes their cure for dangerous diseases that a flower could get sick in summer or early autumn. While the lily is growing in the garden, only the external manifestations of the disease can indicate the presence of ill health.
If you notice strange pigmentation, any damage to the stem, leaves or flowers, by the fall, bulbs of any kind of lilies are not left in the ground. Depending on the symptoms of the disease, after flowering, and sometimes without waiting for its end, treatment measures are taken.
Lily diseases that need to be treated after flowering:
Botrytis - gray rot.
Fusarium is a bacterial soft rot.
Mosaic is a viral disease.
Botrytis - gray rot
The appearance of slightly noticeable spots of a yellow tint, spreading along the lower part of the sheets, is replaced by distinctly bright gray spots, fluffy in texture. They gradually grow and cover the leaves completely, soon moving to the stems and flower heads.
Wet weather allows fungal spores to completely line all parts of the lilies. As a result, the entire aerial part of the plant is affected. Leaves and stem become covered with brown spots, and then fall off.
Prevention of gray rot carried out immediately after the flowering of lilies.
The fungus is especially active in a humid environment.
The most favorable environment is wet plants that do not have time to dry before night and moist, cool air after rain. The wind easily spreads spores of fungi that cause gray rot.
From a strong wind or hypothermia, lilies get stressed, their immunity decreases, as a result, the leaves are easily affected by botrytis.
Heavy showers begin in autumn, at a time when the lilies have already faded. Many lilies are not dug out of the ground every year. Even when digging, you need to let the lilies stand for a while already without flowers, so that the bulb gets stronger before next landing. You can protect lilies from fungus after flowering by adhering to traditional preventive methods.
Before the onset of the rainy season, you need to install a wooden or metal carcass- it is enough to drive four pegs along the edges of the flower beds with lilies. Pull plastic wrap over the pegs with a slight slope to one side. The precipitation will not accumulate on the flowers and will not be able to provoke the appearance of the fungus. Do not use agrofibre as a shelter, it passes water well. Themselves, if necessary, water the lilies only under the root in the morning.
If the plants are already sick, you should immediately cut off the affected parts of the plant or its entire aerial part. Affected vegetation must be burned or disposed of in another way. The main thing is that the fungus, the spores of which are always present on the affected plants, does not get into the ground. In the ground, he will wait out the winter, move to newly planted plants and destroy new sprouts of lilies or other plantings.
In case of disease, a white saliva-like mass will form on the tubers and roots. In the absence of treatment, the aboveground and underground parts of the plant are covered with sclerotia. Such plants can be saved from the disease. It is necessary to thoroughly wash the tubers with roots running water and soak them in a suspension of foundationazole (0.5%) or TMTD pesticides (1%) for 20-30 minutes.
Fusarium - bacterial soft rot
If the bulbs are slightly damaged or the infection is not yet visible, but there is a suspicion of its presence, sprinkle the bulbs with sulfur and coal in a 1: 1 ratio.
Soft rot occurs when the bulb is damaged. Most often it comes from improper storage. The best prevention- gentle handling when digging and packing the bulbs, storing at the optimum temperature. A lily becomes ill with Fusarium if, after digging, it has not been thoroughly dried.
Bulbs and roots rot from heavy rainfall. Bulb protection methods high humidity on the street - the construction of a frame covered with plastic wrap. Some lily hybrids, such as Asiatic and LA hybrids, are dug up in the second decade of August, since it is very difficult to keep them from moisture.
Mosaic
Along the edges of the leaves of lilies, oval, elongated, white, sometimes black spots with white stains appear. Leaves and flowers grow skewed, crooked, flowers and buds have irregular shape, sometimes white stains form on them. Soon the entire aerial part of the flower rots and dies. The disease is caused by aphids, mites and the ingress of viruses into the lily juice into the stem through secateurs.
There is no cure for this disease, but preventive precautions must be followed. The stem of the lily is always cut before wintering, regardless of whether the bulb and roots are removed. To cut the stem, you need to use secateurs with replaceable metal blades, which must be changed after cutting each flower and disinfected in alcohol or boiling water.
Slightly but noticeably drooping, sluggish plants, even without characteristic leaf spots, may already be infected. viral disease. At the slightest suspicion, you need to examine the plant very carefully, if not one of the symptoms is revealed, it is advisable to dig up the bulb and soak it in phytosporin (4 drops per 200 ml).
Careful prevention of plants is necessary, as mites and aphids multiply very quickly. In spring, they quickly fly from one flower to another. Over the summer, more than half of all plants can get sick with a viral disease.
Top dressing and fertilizers for domestic lilies
It is useful for lilies to apply mineral fertilizers. In the spring, fertilizing with the addition of nitrogen is applied:
ammonium nitrate 1 tsp per 1 m²;
nitroammophoska 1 Matchbox to a bucket of water.
Liquid complex fertilizers- suspensions or solutions containing 1-3 active ingredients. For example, superphosphate - 20 g per 10 liters of water; liquid potash top dressing - 15-20 g of potassium chloride or potassium salt per 10 liters of water, in dry form 15-25 g per 1 m².
In summer it is recommended:
wood ash 5-6 times per season;
mullein infusion.
In autumn, nitrogen-free mineral fertilizers are useful mix from a solution of 30-40 g of superphosphate with 15-20 g of potassium salt.
Organic fertilizers for lilies are contraindicated. They do not bring benefits, but cause the development of fungal diseases.
As a preventive measure against diseases, domestic lilies should be sprinkled with Bordeaux liquid (1%) every 3 years.
Lilies are prepared for winter in two ways. Frost-resistant hybrids are cut, left in the ground and carefully covered with peat, leaves, and sometimes a film. Frost-resistant, repotting, or diseased lilies are also pruned and dug up. Each dug bulb is carefully examined, if symptoms of the disease are detected, treatment is carried out, if necessary, burned. Bulbs must be handled with care to preserve planting material in a good condition.
For domestic lilies, you need to regularly introduce complementary foods, add fertilizers to the soil.
Proper care of lilies will help keep beautiful flowers in your garden and home for a long time.
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Natalia Dishuk February 12, 2014 | 6340
If lilies appeared on the leaves brown spots, then the plant suffers from gray rot. How to deal with it?
Gray rot especially often develops in climatic zones with moderate temperatures and big amount precipitation. Most often, she suffers from perennial flower crops (lilies, peonies, tulips) in open ground. Pathogenic infection accumulates in the soil, roots, bulbs, and especially on the aerial parts of the plant during long-term cultivation in one place. In summer and spring, the infection spreads from diseased plants to healthy ones through water and air. Spores during the growing season scatter and fall on healthy plants, settle on the soil and weeds. Mycelium and spores overwinter on plant debris in the soil and in the basal rosette of leaves. Optimum temperature for their development - 16-21 ° С.
Control measures
- Plant only healthy bulbs in an open, well-ventilated, sunny area.
- Do not overfeed with manure and nitrogen fertilizers- this reduces the resistance of plants to diseases.
- Kill weeds and pests that weaken plants.
- Affected parts of plants, without waiting for the end of the growing season, cut and burn.
- In no case do not bury them with plant debris. If there is an infection in the area of the bulb, before planting, pickle in a fungicide solution (Topsin-M - 0.2%; Fundazol - 0.2%; Bordeaux liquid- 1%; copper oxychloride - 0.5%; Bayleton - 0.1%, Azofos - 2%). You can also shed the soil around the lilies with a solution of Maxim. It is effective against many fungal diseases, incl. gray rot. The fungicide kills the infection around and on the surface of lily bulbs.
- But since the infection of stems, leaves and buds occurs mainly on the surface, it is more effective to spray the aerial part of the plants 2-3 times (with an interval of 16-20 days) with fungicide solutions before the disease and in case of its signs (specks on the leaves).
Often, gray rot affects the entire plant: leaves, buds, stems, flowers and seed pods, sometimes bulbs. First, dark brown spots appear, later turning pale in the center. On the leaves, they become transparent with darker, watery edges. The spots increase in size, merge, cover all the leaves and cause them to die. When the bulbs are damaged, the same spots appear on the upper lobules. When the stem is damaged, the entire upstream part of the plant turns brown and dries out. Sick buds do not open, turn brown. All diseased parts of plants in wet weather are covered with sporulation of the fungus.
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