Small white pests of indoor plants. Houseplant pests and how to deal with them
Often the joy of acquiring an orchid is overshadowed by the appearance white bugs similar to small pieces of cotton wool. This description is given by flower owners when they see a mealybug. Because of its resemblance to lice, mealybug bought a second vernacular name- furry lice.
There are 500 varieties of this insect in the world, but plants on the windowsills are more often infected with 2 species: citrus and bristly mealybug.
citrus mealybug
Citrus mealybug females:
- They have an oval body 4 mm in length, pinkish in color, covered with a white fluffy coating.
- They leave behind a viscous sticky secret - honeydew, which attracts other insects.
- Sometimes a soot fungus starts up in the honeydew; the disease does not contribute to the health of the orchid.
- Beetle females live an average of 3 months, but already on the 15th day after birth they are able to breed.
Males, unlike females, look like midges, fly next to the orchid, and can sit on the windows. After hatching from an egg, males live no more than 4 days. They do not have mouthparts and do not require food.
In this species of bugs, like the previous one, only females and larvae are pests:
Signs of defeat
It has the following properties:
- Allows increase yield by 50% in just a few weeks of use.
- You can get good harvest even on low-fertility soils and in adverse climatic conditions
- Absolutely safe
Causes of the pest
To rid the orchid of white bugs, first you need to figure out what caused the infection:
- first of all, weakened plants suffer, they are not able to synthesize substances that repel insects;
- if it is not enough to take care of the orchid, do not remove old leaves and flowers in time, then you can overlook the beginning of infection with white bugs;
- improper watering (waterlogging or drying out of the substrate), attracts pests;
- flaw sunlight, dry air and low temperature external environment leads to a weakening of the protective functions of the orchid;
- due to non-compliance with quarantine, newly acquired plants may have a pest.
How dangerous is the pest?
Dust and fibers from bugs adhering to the honeydew interfere with gas exchange between the flower and environment, besides, a sooty fungus can start in it, which will hit an already weakened flower.
Adult females and larvae feed on the juices of the plant, sucking out everything useful material. If you do not start poisoning insects and treating the flower in time, this can lead to the death of the orchid and the spread of pests.
How to get rid of white bugs?
Mechanical removal
To remove white bugs you need:
Folk remedies
In advanced cases, surface treatment is not enough, so you should adopt several folk remedies for a white bug:
The use of chemicals
To combat insects, the chemical industry produces a huge amount of funds. Their action is directed through the intestines, the respiratory system, some of them are able to poison plant tissues for bugs, some act by contact.
Since the white bugs are well protected from the outside, the use of contact preparations is best used with a large number of young animals that are not yet completely covered with bloom and are vulnerable. For best effect combined or enteric-contact preparations are produced.
To remove the worm, the following drugs are suitable:
- Biotlin;
- Spark "double effect";
- Confidor Extra;
- Bankol.
Aktara
Biotlin
Confidor
Preparations for the fight against mealybugs
When using chemicals, strictly adhere to the instructions for use, since some of them, if improperly processed, can harm the orchid. Do not neglect secondary processing - bugs are able to acquire immunity to poison. The treatment is repeated after 1-2 weeks.
Prevention of the appearance of white bugs
So that bugs do not start on the orchid, and you do not have to treat it, do not neglect preventive measures:
- be sure to observe quarantine for newly acquired plants;
- remove old leaves and flowers;
- inspect regularly;
- from time to time wash under a warm shower (no more than 50 °).
Other Orchid Pests
| Name of the pest | Description |
| Red | It has an oval red body up to 4 mm. Feeds on plant sap. It is difficult to get rid of it because of the survivability of eggs - they are able to remain in the substrate for 5 years. |
| These are small flying insects up to 3 mm in length, the body is elongated with a pair of small wings. Piercing the skin of the leaf, completely deprive it of nutrients.
The damaged leaf first acquires a silver color, then darkens and dies. Because of their high fecundity and small size, thrips are difficult to get rid of. |
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| The females of this species of pests stick to the orchid and feed on the juice. The secreted pad forms a bug on the surface of the body, a kind of shield under which the female lives and lays eggs. Prefers orchids with fleshy leaves: phalaenopsis and cymbidium.
Damaged leaves are covered with small spots, which then merge into one and die. So how are u adult good protection, then it is better to fight with crawling pest larvae and males that fly. |
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| Or, they look like tiny white-winged butterflies that feed on the juice of young leaves. Able to lay eggs in the ground and leaf axils, which first turn yellow, then curl up and die. Pest control must be started as soon as possible, otherwise the flower can be lost. | |
| Gets on orchids more often through an open window. Forms colonies from the bottom of the leaf. It looks like a small green insect, with extensive infestation, aphids stick around the entire plant. The secreted sweet pad usually attracts other insects - this. The leaves affected by aphids begin to wither, then turn black and fall off. |
The best way to control pests is to prevent their spread. When buying, carefully inspect the plant. At home, wash it under a warm shower and put it separately from other plants for a month for observation. It is not recommended to bathe the plants together in the same container, put them on the same pallet, swap the pallets, place the plants too closely. All this increases the likelihood of the spread of pests. The soil for transplanting plants must be sterilized. To increase the resistance of plants, it is important to observe the growing conditions and care.
Applying chemicals protection of plants, it is necessary to strictly follow the instructions for use, which are mandatory placed on the packaging of preparations, as well as observe precautions when working with them. Of the drugs, you should opt for the safest, with a lower hazard class (III or IV). Spray treatments should be carried out on the balcony or outdoors.
It is not always possible to identify the pest at the very beginning, so you need to know them and be able to deal with them.
Mealybug- a sucking insect related to the scale insects, the hemiptera family, the superfamily worms. It looks like a fluffy articulated rounded insect, about 3-5 mm, which, when crushed, releases an orange liquid. Colonies look like pieces of white cotton in the axils of leaves and shoots. With a strong lesion, the colonies are also located on the leaves and trunks, often a sticky coating appears on the leaves. Juveniles are small and very mobile. The waxy coating makes the mealybug not very susceptible to contact preparations. The most effective in the fight against mealybugs are systemic preparations of intestinal action.
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Measures to combat scale insects, false scale insects, mealybugs . Alcohol treatment, treatment with a water-oil emulsion, replacement of the top layer of soil, the main treatment with Aktara insecticide (spray with a solution of 4 g / 5 l and shed the soil with a solution of 1 g / 10 l, 4 times, interval 7-10 days) and auxiliary contiguous treatments (after 1-2 days) with Acarin, Agravertin, Iskra-bio, Karate, Inta-vir, Fitoverm (spraying with a 1% solution, 4 times with an interval of 7-10 days).
Thrips control measures. Hang sticky traps of blue and yellow. The main treatment with Aktara insecticide (spray with a solution of 4 g / 5 l and shed the soil with a solution of 1 g / 10 l, 4 times, interval 7-10 days) and auxiliary contiguous treatments with Akarin, Agravertin, Iskra-bio, Inta-vir, Fitoverm (spraying with 1% solution, 4 times with an interval of 7-10 days, Inta-vir 8 g/10 l). If thrips is found, all plants in the house must be treated. Processing part of the collection may not give the desired result.
Whitefly control measures. Yellow sticky traps, main treatment with Aktara insecticide (spray with a solution of 4 g / 5 l and shed the soil 1 g / 10 l, 4 times, interval 7-10 days) and auxiliary contiguous treatments with contact preparations Akarin, Agravertin, Iskra-bio , Inta-vir, Fitoverm (4 times with an interval of 7-10 days, Inta-vir 8 g / 10 l).
As an additional method, a thermal method can be proposed. At temperatures above +40 ... +45 0 С, thermal shock occurs in insects. It is necessary to heat a closed space with whitefly-infested insects to this temperature, which is easy to do on a glazed and clogged balcony on a sunny day or in a greenhouse.
Aphid- sucking insect from the order Hemiptera green, brown, black, 2 mm. Forms colonies mainly on the tops of the shoots. There are colonies of wingless and winged individuals. When the plant is located outdoors (on the ground) in summer time often indicators of damage are ants that feed on the sweet secretion of aphids, droplets of sticky honeydew are also observed on the leaves.
Measures to combat aphids. Single or double treatment with Actara (spraying at a concentration of 4 g / 5 l and watering at a concentration of 1 g / 10 l), Akarin, Agravertin or Iskra-bio (spraying 5-8 ml / l), or another insecticide according to the instructions. During processing, insects may not die immediately, but after a few hours. All plants in the house should be treated, as aphids move easily.
Weevils- shiny small beetles, body shape from elongated to rounded. A distinctive feature is the presence of a rostrum (an elongated part of the head). They feed on leaves, flowers, roots, sometimes being inside plant tissues. Often, adult insects feed on the aerial parts of plants, their larvae feed on roots. On indoor plants, the presence of weevil can be identified by round or semicircular holes in the leaves. You can not see the weevil right away, because it is nocturnal. The most effective will be systemic preparations of intestinal action.
Weevil control measures. Manual collection of adult insects, spraying with Aktara (4 g/5 l), spilling the soil with Aktara (1 g/10 l), 4-fold treatment every 7-10 days.
Action water-oil emulsion based on the effect of oil blocking the spiracles of insects. To give greater covering power, the oil is mixed with soap solutions. A glass of water is taken a little dishwashing detergent or soap and 2-3 tbsp. tablespoons of machine (can be sunflower) oil, all this is shaken until an emulsion is formed and applied with a cotton swab or brush to all surfaces of the plant, while it is imperative to protect the soil from emulsion drops. The plant is left treated for several hours, then thoroughly washed in the shower. The tolerance of the leaves to such exposure should be checked.
Recently, new systemic water-soluble drugs have begun to appear on the market, which are replacing the old, more toxic ones. Similar in properties to Aktara is a drug Apaches, much more economical, however, there are no instructions for using it on indoor plants. It should be noted that the recommendations for use on the Internet do not coincide with the official ones.
spider mite refers to arachnid arthropods, feeds on cell sap through leaf bites. It is a common pest of indoor plants. Signs of damage: on the underside of the leaf (sometimes on the top) there are small, about 0.5 mm, light grains (as if sprinkled with flour), with a massive lesion, a cobweb is visible. The leaf at the bite is discolored, covered with small yellow spots. Subsequently, with a strong defeat, the leaf falls off. The mite easily spreads through the air, is present always and everywhere, but affects only weakened plants. Strong plants that are kept in optimal conditions are able to resist the mite. Risk factors include too dry air, overheating of a plant or a clod of earth in the sun, drying out of the soil, dehydration (sometimes roots rot and die due to excessive watering), improper feeding, often an overdose of nitrogen fertilizers.
Methods of dealing with spider mites. In order to prevent the plant, it is useful to spray it often with cold (namely cold) water, especially the underside of the leaf. For emergency assistance, it is necessary to wash the plant in the shower and treat with acaricides. IN room conditions it is better to use Vertimek, Fitoverm. However, these drugs do not act on all stages of the tick - at least three treatments are required at +20 0 C after 10 days, or at +30 0 C after 3-4 days. Treatment with Akarin, Agravertin, Neoron will also help (4-fold treatments with an interval of 7-10 days). However, if the rules for caring for the plant are not followed, chemical treatments will only help for a while. To completely get rid of the tick, it is necessary to provide the plant with optimal conditions. Then strong cell walls are formed, which the tick is not able to damage. Effective is preventive irradiation with a medical ultraviolet lamp for 1.5-2 minutes weekly (to prevent the development of a new generation of individuals from eggs, which occurs exactly within 7 days).
About a new safe method of struggle - in the article Essential oil - for mites and nematodes
Methods of combating root-knot nematodes. It is necessary to try to remove severely damaged areas of the roots. heat treat root system and soil by immersion in a large volume of water with a temperature of +50 0 C. Of the chemicals, Fitoverm or Agravertin are recommended when a dry powder is introduced into the soil, but in this form the preparations in retail missing.
Ecogel proved to be effective against nematodes, which was initially considered only as an anti-stress drug. Chitosan, which is part of the Ecogel, strengthens the cell walls so much that the nutrition and spread of the nematode in the tissues of the plant becomes impossible.
About Ecogel - in articles
It should be borne in mind that in some plants the presence of nodules on the roots is the norm, they should not be confused with galls. In members of the legume family, nitrogen-fixing bacteria live in such nodules.
The appearance of this pest cannot be confused with anything. This is a fairly large relative of the scale insect. Mealybug reaches up to 8 mm in length.
Female individuals of "hairy lice" have an undeveloped oval-shaped body, more characteristic of insect larvae. Numerous eggs are laid in special sacs in the axils of the leaves. The shoots on which the pest lives are covered with a sticky wax coating. white color.
Males are not at all like females - they have wings and normally developed limbs, the body is divided into sections and ends in a bundle of tail filaments
With the help of their oral apparatus, females and larvae easily pierce the surface of a leaf, bud or shoot and suck the juices out of it. Young mealybugs are extremely mobile and easily move between plants. Sexually mature males do not feed, because as they grow older, their mouthparts atrophy.
Signs of a mealybug infection
To detect pests, it is enough to carefully examine a houseplant.
Main features:
- drooping appearance, lethargy of leaves and shoots;
- underdeveloped buds, deformed leaves;
- white powdery coating with lumps;
- small "mosquitoes" (male mealybugs) on the windows near the pots;
- the presence of sticky mucus (honeydew) on all parts of the plant;
- the presence of white blotches in an earthy coma during transplantation;
- the presence of white oval insects.
Any of these symptoms may indicate the appearance of a worm. Not a single flower is immune from infection. Citrus, amaryllis, cycad and palm plants, as well as cacti, violets and orchids, should be taken under special control.
Often suffers from an azalea pest, the photo of which is given in the article. The pest attacks young shoots. Leaves stop growing and turn yellow. Azalea, whose photo demonstrates her beauty, struck by insects, is losing its former appearance.
Harm to the plant
The mealybug literally draws all the nutrients from the flowers, disrupting their growth and normal development. Sweet honeydew secreted by females provokes the development of associated fungal infections. Due to the sticky impermeable coating, the green pet's breathing worsens. This can lead to wilting and even leaf fall.
Mealy aphids (another name for mealybugs) do not give preference to a certain part of the plant, hitting everything that comes in its path. Under attack are not only shoots, buds and leaves, but also roots. If treatment is not started as soon as possible, the mealybug will spread to surrounding indoor plantings. In time, he will destroy them all. Therefore, it is necessary to immediately declare war if you notice a mealybug on houseplants. How to deal with a pest will be described below.
Causes of the appearance of the mealybug
Why do these harmful insects appear?
There are several main reasons:
- The presence of eggs and larvae in the soil. It may even be infected purchased soil, therefore it is very important to treat it with hot steam before use.
- Transfer of larvae with newly acquired plants. New pets should be kept separately and periodically carefully inspected. You can put them next to the rest of the flowers only after finally making sure that there are no pests.
- Mistakes in care - low air temperature in the room, stagnation of moisture in the soil, insufficient lighting, excessive fertilization. Improper care significantly reduces the immunity of the plant, provoking various diseases.
- The presence of dust on the leaves, irregular removal of dry parts.
- Untimely replacement of earth in pots. Harmful insects can start inside a compacted earthen coma.
- Poor quality water for irrigation.
Folk methods of dealing with mealybugs
Now you know how dangerous a pest is for plants. You can easily determine that a mealybug has settled on houseplants.
How to deal with such an insect? With a small focus of infection, you can try to get rid of it without special means.
Popular home remedies:
- Infusion from medicinal herbs. To process the plant, you can use horsetail, calendula. Powder purchased at a pharmacy should be brewed with boiling water. After the agent has cooled, the plant is treated with it. To prepare the infusion, use the following ratios: 100 g of horsetail (calendula) per 1 liter of liquid.
- Tincture of garlic. This is enough effective method mealybug control. Peel and mince a medium-sized whole head of garlic. Fill with a liter hot water and let it brew for 4 hours. Tincture of garlic is applied to the leaves and trunk with cotton wool or a sponge.
- Oil emulsion. In a liter of warm water, stir 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Spray the affected leaves with a spray bottle.
- Soap-alcohol solution. For its preparation, it is better to take natural soap, without perfume additives. For 1 liter of water, 1 teaspoon of grated soap and 1 tablespoon of ethyl alcohol. Spray the affected parts of the plant, avoiding getting the solution on the earthen ball. You can carry out the procedure 1 time in 3 days. It is necessary to wash off the applied agent a day after spraying.
- Tincture of lemon and orange peel. A surprisingly simple recipe that allows you to effectively rid the plant of pests. Take the peels of lemon, orange and pour boiling water over them. The ratio is as follows: 30-50 g of zest per 1 liter of liquid. During the day, the remedy should be infused. Then treat your green pets with this infusion using a spray bottle.
Mealybug chemicals
With the ineffectiveness of folk methods or large foci of infection, one has to turn to chemical insecticides.
Widely available effective drugs against mealybugs:
- "Decis".
- "Vertimek".
- "Tsvetofos".
- Nurell D.
- Phosphamide.
- "Bi-58".
- "Actellik".
- Fitoverm.
- "Aplaud".
Special difficulties with such substances should not arise. The main thing is to carefully read the instructions and follow all precautions.
Affected plants should be quarantined. Usually 3-4 insecticide treatments are sufficient. If the pests still remain, you need to change the drug.
Precautionary measures
Make sure that the drugs used do not cause harm:
- Use chemicals only in a well ventilated area.
- Keep children and pets out of the way.
- Use personal protective equipment to avoid poisoning.
Preventive measures
- Periodically inspect green spaces.
- Replant grown flowers regularly.
- Inspect the earthen ball during transplantation. Rinse the soil with hot water (about 55° C).
- Properly care for flowers according to their preferences.
- Timely remove dying parts of the plant. Dried leaves can serve as a convenient shelter for various pests.
- Before planting, scald the pots with boiling water, and steam the soil.
- Observe quarantine measures for new plants.
Insects are an integral part of any ecosystem, but they have no place on the landscaped window sills of apartments. Especially if a mealybug appeared on houseplants. How to deal with a pest, you know. Therefore, use any available methods. After all, healthy home plants without pests are actively developing and delighting the eye with bright greenery and abundant flowering.
Many ornamental plant lovers may notice small black dots on the underside of the leaf. And only a few know that these are thrips on indoor plants - small pests that become especially aggressive in spring and summer, which cause great harm to the culture. Pests suck juice from flowers and leaves, and also carry viral diseases. As a result of their impact, the flowers fall off, the leaves dry up, and excretions of their vital activity appear, on which sooty fungus can settle.
- What is flower thrips
- Signs of damage to flowers by thrips
- Ways to identify and prevent thrips
- Thrips control methods
Most often it goes to dracaena, varieties of palm trees, ficuses, citrus fruits, roses, monstera and laurel. Black dot lesions are not the only manifestation of the disease; viral infections are also observed, passing to adjacent healthy flowers.
Flower thrips refers to dipterous insects, the length of which is from 0.5 to 5 mm. Young pests are painted in green, yellow and pale yellow, adults are found in black, sandy and brown shades. In this way, insects manage to disguise themselves, so they are difficult to detect. The larvae are too small, lay eggs, have a gray or light shade.
There are many types of this pest. So, one of the most dangerous for ornamental crops is the Western California flower thrips, which is an individual up to two millimeters long, located in buds, inflorescences, on leaves. The pest likes to settle on indoor plants such as roses, gerberas, chrysanthemums, cyclamens, etc. Given the location of thrips on indoor plants, their treatment is difficult, since most of the population is not available for chemical exposure.
Signs of damage to flowers by thrips
Typical signs of plant damage by pests are:
- the presence of yellow spots on the surface of the sheets at the beginning of infection;
- the appearance at further stages of the development of the disease of silvery dotted streams (not necessary for all types of insects);
- on the lower part of the leaf, an accumulation of yellow and brown spots, as well as black dots;
- over time, there is a merging of spots and lines;
- holes may appear at the site of the lesions, the leaves wither, fall off;
- when the kidneys are infected with western flower thrips, the deformation of the inflorescences is determined. So, in roses, the flowers remain closed.
Pronounced viral symptoms of crop disease are:
- yellowish or brownish spots of a rounded shape on the leaves;
- the stem is covered with a bloom of black or brown;
- there is a defeat of the bases of the leaves in the form of necrosis.
From the beginning of the infection process to the appearance of signs of activity of the California color triplex, 1-2 weeks pass, during which a new generation is already formed.
Ways to identify and prevent thrips
For early identification and detection of insects, it is recommended to regularly inspect the flowers and leaves of crops, especially from the underside. When visually inspecting, it should be borne in mind that, for example, Western California flower thrips like to be placed in the most illuminated areas, gathering on flowers and top leaves. Adhesive traps of blue and yellow color will become assistants in identifying thrips on houseplants.
Preventive care for pets involves cleaning them of dust, spraying, you need to make sure that there is no strong dryness of the air, that is, maintain sufficient humidity in the room.
Too much nitrogenous fertilizer promotes the development of flower thrips. An insect can get into an apartment with bouquets brought from the street. Liming the pest from buds and flowers is quite difficult, since it is necessary to shake them off and hit them on a table with white paper placed on it, on which insects will remain.
Thrips control methods
It is quite difficult to get rid of thrips on indoor plants, therefore, at the first signs of the disease, it is necessary to isolate the culture, clean it from infected elements (leaves, flowers).
On early stages infection, you can wipe the plant with a solution of laundry soap using a soft sponge. Such a measure will not remove the pest, but only reduce its population. It is recommended to leave the flower in soap for some time under a plastic bag.
Treatment with water with a few drops of machine oil, kerosene or leaf polishing agent diluted in it works effectively. However, it should be remembered here that such agents harm the plant, so their use on crops that have thin and delicate leaves is excluded. Leathery leaves can be wiped 3-4 times with alcohol.
In the event of the appearance of severe damage to flowers by pests, one cannot do without treating thrips on houseplants with the help of chemicals. The number of such products is quite large: Fitoverm, Mospilan, Aktara (as a sprayer or top dressing), Confidor, Intavir, Dantop, Apaches, etc. Specialized stores may offer products under different names. Quite effectively, such a drug as Spintor, an insecticide of natural origin, has proven itself.
The most important thing when buying chemicals is to carefully study the instructions for use, and before processing, wash the plant with water. Chemical treatment will have to be carried out not once, but in several stages. In the period between manipulations, flower stalks should be removed.
If, after treating the culture from the western flower thrips with an insecticide, the pest has returned again, then there is no need to despair. It's worth trying something else. After all, the action of the drugs is different, perhaps another medicine will come to light more reliable and effective.
With a slightly pronounced lesion with flower thrips, you can try folk methods protection. For example, mix 85 gr. garlic, passed through a garlic press, 50 ml. mineral or vegetable oil with 10 ml. laundry soap and 950 ml. water. The mixture should be infused throughout the day. Before use, you need to dilute the solution in a ratio of 1 to 19 with water, that is, by 950 g. take 50 ml of water. mixtures. Spray the plant with the resulting substance.
Spider mites
The most common pest of indoor flowers. Characteristic features damage: pinpoint punctures, whitish or yellowish, are visible in the leaf clearance. Gradually they merge into spots. The leaves turn pale, acquire a grayish tint. Then the leaves dry out, completely lose their color. This is a typical picture, but in some cases the leaves turn red or turn bronze. In some plants, the leaves do not change shape even when the spots are large, in other cases they are severely deformed, twisted.
Photo of a spider mite - a close-up pest
Here are collected photos of the spider mite, for quick identification of the pest on indoor plants. How to distinguish who eats your flowers and how to deal with a pest.
The leaves turn yellow, cobwebs appear on the flowers, dots appear on the leaves, as if punctured with a needle, the flowers do not grow, the tops of the shoots wither - these are signs of a spider mite. Tips from experienced flower growers on how to deal with ticks folk remedies or through chemistry.
Shell mites
A package with orchids arrived, and there black bugs, similar to ticks, run around quickly. Who is this?
Shell mites or oribatids are soil arthropods. By 2015, more than 7,000 species of shell mites have been described. Who are they - pests or useful living creatures? Whether it is necessary to destroy them, by what means to fight. What to do if shell mites settled in pots with orchids.
What shell mites look like, how to distinguish them from herbivorous mites: spider mites, flat beetles and broad mites.
Thrips on indoor flowers are not uncommon, they enter our house from the street, with garden flowers, with purchased indoor plants and with flower cuts (from bouquets). They spread very quickly on domestic plants, suck out juices from them, pollute the leaves with skins and excrement. Thrips is dangerous because it has several stages of development, some of which are secretive - the females lay their eggs directly in the leaf tissue, and the nymphs hide in the ground. In addition, eggs and nymphs have covers that protect them from the action of contact insecticides. Therefore, the fight against thrips goes in several stages.
Photo of thrips - close-up pest
Silver spots appeared on the leaves, discolored areas, the shoots dry and deform, the plant does not bloom, the leaves turn yellow, small black drops or crumbs appear on the surface of the leaves - these are signs of thrips. Look at photos of the pest and compare with your plant.
You may need some tips for dealing with thrips.
From point of view indoor floriculture the danger of scale insects is that due to parthenogenesis - the hatching of females without fertilization, scale insects can breed, all year round, giving out about 5-6 generations, the process of generational change goes on continuously. At the same time, males are extremely rare among indoor scale insects, but if they appear, for some reason they are very frightening. Someone begins to think that this unknown terribly voracious creature. In fact, the life cycle of scale insects, with or without males, is no different. By themselves, males do not harm plants - they simply have nothing to eat. In fact, male scale insects hatch for the sole purpose of fertilization, therefore, all they have are eyes, wings and genitals.
Photo of a scale insect - a close-up pest
What does the shield and false shield look like - brown spots on the stems, petioles, leaves, translucent or with a dense brown shield, flat or convex. The smallest ones are almost imperceptible, but if you scrape it off, press it with a needle, a wet mark remains. What do the leaves look like? various plants, affected by the scale insect, look at the photographs of various plants.
Tips from experienced flower growers on how to cure scabies with folk remedies and with the help of drugs.
Mealybug
The bristle bug or mealybug is a small insect that lives on plants. Its body is covered with a white waxy coating, from which the accumulations of pests look like cotton balls.
The worms cause serious damage to indoor plants, and it is quite difficult to breed them at home. What to look for: if the leaves turn yellow and fall off, the shoots are stunted, small white spots are visible on the stems or under the leaves. The worms climb under the bark of indoor fruit exotics, under the scales of bulbs in hippeastrums and other bulbs, and hide in fluffy hairs on the stems of begonias. Soot fungi can settle on the secretions of mealybugs.
Photo of a mealybug - pest close-up
This pest is not always immediately noticeable: the worms can hide for a long time in the root zone, near the surface of the earth, in the axils of the leaves.
And only when the colony of worms grows numerous and voracious, the pests will be visible on the leaves. But by this time, as a rule, the plant withers, irrevocably turns yellow and dies.
whitefly
The whitefly is a pest of indoor and garden plants, all species easily breed in an apartment, some species calmly winter in mid-latitudes and breed under our windows from spring. The whitefly celandine is especially fond of, which grows under our windows, and spoils any vegetables in the gardens, especially cabbage, and berries.
How to identify a pest - whitefly photo, whitefly control measures.
At home, aphids can harm all year round. They multiply fairly quickly, forming colonies that capture everything. large area. But unlike ticks, aphids are large pests that are easy to see with the naked eye. Aphids focus on the most delicate parts of the plant - the tops of the shoots, buds, flowers. In many plants, the easiest way is to cut off the affected shoots and cut off the flower stalks. In plants that form a rosette, wash the leaves with a sponge with green soap, and clean the leaf axils with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol.
If the aphids are very rampant on indoor flowers, spray the plants with any insecticide. You will be helped by: aktara, confidor, tanrek, fitoverm, inta-vir, spark, spark-bao, deciss and other preparations.
Green potash soap in the gardens too indispensable assistant- It does not smell and is not poisonous to humans. Potassium soap should be diluted at the rate of 20 g of liquid green soap per 1 liter of water. Especially carefully spray secluded places - tops of shoots, axils of leaves, apply a foam cap on the buds. Do not rinse with soapy water!
How to deal with aphids garden plot read: How to kill aphids
Nematode
Nematode happens various kinds, the root usually forms spherical growths or swellings. Stem or leaf nematodes do not form swellings, but cause severe deformation of leaves, stems, buds. The flowers usually don't even open. Begonias, gloxinias, ficuses, and ferns suffer greatly from the nematode. Their leaves wrinkle, as if shrunken, turn brown between the veins, young ones grow immediately twisted, ugly.
Some types of nematodes also form galls on flowers, often the defeat of the nematode is accompanied by symptoms of bacterial infections.
mushroom mosquitoes
Sciarides or mushroom mosquitoes - small annoying midges start up in flowers, fly all over the apartment. By themselves, they do not harm, flowers do not eat, but mosquitoes are a sure sign that plants are systematically flooded. It is necessary to check the soil in pots with flowers, because if waterlogging is not eliminated, the roots of plants can rot.
If mosquitoes have time to lay eggs in the soil, larvae hatch from them, feeding on decaying organic matter, and can partially damage the roots of plants.
mining flies
The larvae of these flies gnaw out the core of the leaves, leaving discolored patterns of moves on them - min. Disfigure the leaves of trees, shrubs, including conifers, and herbaceous plants, in room conditions, violets (saintpaulias), succulents (euphorbia, stonecrop), hibiscus syngonium and other plants can affect ...
root mites
Root and onion mites feed on the underground part of plants - gnaw out bulbs, feed on juicy roots. They are found at the stage when the plant has already suffered greatly - growth is inhibited, the leaves turn yellow, buds and flowers do not form, sometimes the crown dries out one-sidedly - with separate branches, but more often the plant has general signs of starvation - chlorosis. Often, an infection gets into the wounds on the roots and bulbs, and the plant becomes ill with fusarium.
Contributes to a more rapid reproduction of root mites high soil moisture. Very often, affected houseplants, especially small and tender ones, die. The best prevention is soil disinfection and quarantine of all purchased plants.
Occasional pests: woodlice, weevil, enchitrei, caterpillars
There are such pests that appear quite rarely in flower pots - these are enchitrei, wood lice, earthworms can be brought in from the land for planting, weevil or wood lice can get into the house from garden soil. If you have someone crawling in a pot, look here, you may recognize the pest ...
Many of them are not as dangerous as they seem, and sometimes not at all dangerous, for example, podura or enchitreya can eat rotting plant roots, but in themselves do not cause the death of indoor flowers. Plants die from overflow and putrefactive infections.
Podura, springtails, springtails
Some white little fleas are jumping in pots with houseplants. Gray worms swim in the pan after watering. Little brown spiders crawl around the roots. All these are soil inhabitants - springtails, springtails and podura. Harmless, in essence, the inhabitants of the soil rich in humus and organic matter. They come to our house with earth from the garden or with store soil. But as long as the soil moisture is moderate, the bugs are not visible. When the earth inside the pot does not dry out for many days, the roots of plants begin to rot, the podura multiply in large numbers.
Podura is a sign of a violation of the care of indoor plants, systematic waterlogging, frequent watering, or improperly selected soil (too moisture-intensive, heavy, non-porous).
Avoid Appearance indoor pests no one can: neither a novice florist, nor an experienced one. Some, scale insects or aphids, affect many types of indoor plants, others are more selective and prefer certain species and in certain conditions. For example, ticks rarely harm Benjamin's ficus, but the scale insect devours it with pleasure.
If pests are found, you must first get rid of them mechanically by wiping the leaves and stems with a sponge dipped in soapy water. It is imperative to remove damaged buds, flowers, leaves and shoots, if the leaves begin to turn yellow or become stained, they will not recover. If the pest is seen on only one plant, it is better to isolate the flower pot and observe the rest.
Try not to use insecticides unless absolutely necessary, especially class 2 toxicity. All chemicals for pest control are not safe for humans and animals (birds and fish). All of them emit toxic substances in one way or another. Therefore, if it is possible to fight pests with folk remedies, i.e. herbs, onion peel, and by biological means plant protection, then you should definitely try them first.
Currently, the issue of using pesticides (plant protection products against diseases and pests) is approached quite carefully, but for now we can see a warning on the packaging with chemicals about precautions, and they may not be completely safe.
Folk remedies for pests of indoor plants
- Yarrow - 80 g of dry crushed leaves pour 1 liter of boiling water and leave for 36-48 hours, spray against aphids, thrips, ticks.
- Tobacco, shag - 40 g insist in 1 liter of water for two days, strain and dilute with another 1 liter of water, spray against aphids and thrips.
- Onion - 15 g of chopped onion insist in 1 liter of water for 5-7 hours in a tightly closed container, spray against aphids and mites.
- Celandine during flowering - 300-400 g of fresh or 100 g of dry celandine insist in 1 liter of water for 24-36 hours, spray against false shields, aphids, thrips.
- Kerosene -2 g per 10 liters of water + 40 g of laundry soap - against thrips and ticks.
- Dandelion officinalis - 300-500 g of crushed roots or fresh leaves insist 2 hours in 10 liters of warm water, filter and spray against thrips and mites.
- Marigold flowers - a glass of dried flowers is poured into 1 liter of warm water, insisted for 2 days, filtered and sprayed on the affected plants against thrips.
- Alder leaves - a glass of dry alder leaves is poured with one liter of boiling water, insisted for a day. Then heated to 50 ° C, and kept in this infusion before planting the bulbs and tubers for 5 minutes. Thus, carry out the prevention of root mites.
- Wood ash - 1 cup of ash is infused in 5 liters of water, then a quarter of a bar of grated laundry soap is added there, sprayed against ticks and thrips.
Do your flowers get sick even though you meet all the conditions? In this case, it is worth suspecting a pest! At home, which are often far from natural, flowers are more vulnerable. Online diagnostics will help you recognize ticks, aphids, scale insects, etc. Pests of indoor flowers: photos, signs and methods of dealing with them.
spider mite
The most common and insidious pest! Spider mite on indoor plants feels great, especially in winter and early spring. Heating, dry air and high temperatures create favorable conditions for its reproduction. Considering that this flower beetle is very prolific, it can easily migrate to other "neighbors"!
The tick belongs to arachnids and can look different. The most common species are the common spider mite, red and cyclamen.
signs
Regardless of the type of mite, the results of its activity cause the death of the leaf! The harmful insect feeds on flower juice, sucking it out of leaves and young shoots. This is immediately reflected in the appearance of flowers: they lose their brightness, juiciness, fade. On some plants, yellow spots appear, which gradually lead to yellowing of the foliage, on others, the leaves dry from the edges and become deformed. Often, a tick can leave behind a cobweb, which is visible through the gap between the branches and leaves. And sometimes you can see the pests themselves! So, the common white mite is visible to the naked eye on the inside at the base of the leaf. The cyclamen mite prefers fluffy plants, and the red mite even settles on the petals of flowering plants.
Risk group
The common tick affects mainly decorative and deciduous species: hibiscus, Benjamin's ficus, fuchsia, citrus fruits, dracaena, tradescantia, adenium, ivy. Although it is dangerous for all houseplants, succulents are less affected.The cyclamen mite prefers plants with fluffy leaves - cyclamen, violets, gloxinia. The red tick can live on any plant, but its favorite delicacy is flowering species- roses, balsams, callas, orchids, and also citrus fruits.
Treatment and prevention
Most ticks do not tolerate high humidity, so most the best prevention is regular spraying (not only the upper, but also the lower side of the leaf) and warm shower. If pests are already present on the plant, you can wash the leaves with a solution of laundry soap. In the summer, if possible, take flowers to the garden, or to the balcony! At first, spraying with a solution of green soap can help!
If the tick has managed to spread strongly and damage the leaves, you will have to resort to the help of acaricides - chemicals to combat ticks. These include "Akarin", "Agrovertin", "Inta-vir", "Vertimek". "Neoron" destroys not only the tick, but also its larvae, and "Fitoverm" is the safest for the microflora of the plant. To prevent the tick from returning, you need to correct the mistakes in care!
Shield and false shield
Insects from the family of worms, the body of which is covered with a shield. This feature not only determined the name of the pest, but also made it immune to spraying with chemicals. But unlike the previous representative, the scale insect does not move, on the contrary, having stuck to the plant, it remains motionless. So it's easy to find it!
Scale insects are sucking insects, they, like leeches, suck out the juice of a plant, while releasing a sticky liquid that clogs the pores, preventing the flower from breathing. The false shield is a close relative of the shield insect, surpassing it in size. By the way, this malicious family has many varieties: they are round, oval, white, brown, brown from 2 to 7 mm in size.
signs
Affected flowers lag behind in growth and development, drop leaves and buds. Shchitovka on indoor plants in the literal sense of the word “sticks around” the branches and even the main trunk, and can also be hidden in the axils of the leaves. Outwardly, these pests look like droplets of wax, or growths! Small scale insects form clusters resembling plaque along the stems and leaf veins. As a result, leaves and even branches may die, previously covered with red-brown or yellow spots. Scale insects are especially dangerous for young shoots!
Risk group
Deciduous plants (especially ferns, asparagus, ivy, lemons, begonias) are more often chosen as the place of deployment of scale insects, but they can also appear on succulents (ficuses, zamiokulkas), and also often affect orchids.
Treatment and prevention
The provoking factors for the reproduction of scale insects are the dryness of the air and the lack of light, characteristic of winter period. They can also enter the apartment from the street! Weakened, diseased plants, in which metabolic processes are disturbed for one reason or another, are a real bait for scale insects. Healthy flowers with strong immunity are immune from these pests!
First things first, you need to remove the dead parts, as well as remove all visible scale insects. This can be done with a warm shower, a soft sponge (or soft brush) and laundry soap. An alternative would be impregnated lemon juice, or vinegar solution cotton swab. Alcohol can burn an already damaged plant, and oil will clog pores!
At this stage, you can get rid of older individuals that are not affected by insecticidal sprays. In order to destroy scale insects and their larvae that are not visible to the eye, it is better to play it safe and additionally treat the plant with insecticides. For these purposes, the preparations "Aktara", "Aktellik", "Arrivo", "Fitoverm" are used. The most gentle method of struggle is a solution of green soap, but it is effective in the initial stages!
thrips
Another type of sucking pests, which, unlike the previous ones, for the time being, hide in the thickness of the sheet. The fact is that the larval stage occurs inside the leaves, where thrips multiply. By the time they grow up and are outside, they will already have time to do enough damage to the plant! The development cycle lasts about 20 days, after which the larvae turn into insects with a small elongated body 1.5 mm in size, which easily fly from branch to branch and are capable of infecting all specimens in the home collection.
Thrips break the structure of the leaf plate, the leaf is deformed, loses color, darkens, or discolors and gradually dies off. In addition, adult insects, like scale insects, leave behind sticky secretions that clog the pores of the plant and can provoke fungal diseases.
signs
IN initial stage thrips are not difficult to identify by the characteristic markings on the leaves. Chaotic light dots, “strokes” and entire paths appear on the surface of the sheet, which gradually spread, and as a result can merge into one large whitish spot! Adult insects can also be seen with the naked eye - they have a dark oblong body, are able to fly, and, sitting on a flower, leave behind a silvery path of sticky secretions.
Risk group
The pest is omnivorous, but palm trees with large leaves, citrus crops and even succulents (rubber ficus, hoya, monstera, aspidistra, laurel, eucharis, syngonium, senoplia).
Treatment and prevention
The main thing is to notice the first signs of the appearance of thrips on indoor plants in time so that it does not have time to develop from larvae. In this case, you can stop the process with the help of insecticides by spraying and root treatments. After all, being inside the leaf, the pests become invulnerable to external disinfection, for this they are watered under the root! But, in order to exclude the appearance of insects from the outside, the aerial part is sprayed.
At the initial stages, green vegetable soap copes well with this task (you can buy it in flower and garden stores). If thrips has severely affected the plant, use Aktara, Dantop, Apache (for root treatment), as well as Fitoverm, Intavir (for external treatment).
The site flowery-blog.ru advises to regularly inspect inside leaves, spray plants, ventilate the room. Thrips can start up even in the summer, but they, like other pests, choose weaker flowers as their “target”.
Mealybug
In the people, these pests are called "hairy lice", they are the closest relatives of scale insects and are also sucking insects. They called them that appearance- clusters look like cotton wool. Mealybug on indoor plants loves young shoots, leaves and buds! It sucks out the juice, strongly inhibits the growth of plants, causes the death of its parts, young shoots, dropping of buds, buds, drying out and deformation of shoots and leaves.
This enemy sometimes hides in the axils of the leaves, becoming invisible, but multiplies very quickly, so it spreads to the soil, shoots and even roots. More than 2000 species of worms are known in nature, all of them are dangerous for plants! In room culture, it is the white mealybug that is more common.
signs
The worm knows how to hide poorly, it is given out by white cotton-like secretions in which the insect females lay their eggs! Usually they can be seen in clusters in the axils of new leaves, on young shoots. In addition to the "shreds" of cotton, you can also see the pests themselves - they are not large, about 3 mm in size, also white, with an oblong body.
Risk group
It is impossible to say exactly which plants the worm likes! Its purpose can be both decorative and deciduous species, as well as succulents and even cacti. For example, monstera, chrysolidocarpus, nolina, kalanchoe, anthurium, camellia, azalea, clivia, amaryllis, hibiscus, asparagus.
Treatment and prevention
To exterminate an unexpected guest at first is not difficult! It is enough to wipe the leaves, remove white coating and disinfect affected areas. This can be done with a cotton swab or a soft brush. A soap solution is suitable for cleaning, and for subsequent disinfection, calendula tincture, or any herbal alcohol infusion. Good preventive measure is spraying with a solution of green soap. This will help prevent relapse!
With a strong defeat by the worm, more radical therapy is needed - watering and spraying with insecticide preparations - Aktara, Vermitek, Intavir, Tsvetofos, Fitoverm. If the bug has spread, it is better to completely replace the soil in the pot, having previously examined and washed the roots with running water.
It is necessary to periodically inspect the flowers for the presence of an evil insect. Especially young leaves and shoots! The worm does not like moisture, so spray and wipe the plants more often.
whitefly
A sucking insect, about 3 mm long, outwardly similar to a white moth. It reproduces quite quickly, laying eggs in groups on the inner surface of the leaf. Adult insects also stay in groups, sucking juices from leaves and young branches - the most tender parts! As a result, the leaves become discolored, turn yellow and fall off.
These houseplant pests are able to fly, but usually sit lazily on the inside surface of the leaves until disturbed. Feeding, these nasty flies leave waste products on the plants, which subsequently become the basis for the development of the fungus. Most often, the whitefly can be seen in the summer, it is also a garden "dirty" and a frequent guest of greenhouses.
signs
Recognizing the whitefly on flowers is as easy as shelling pears: white larvae remain on the underside of the leaf, forming groups, as well as a characteristic whitish coating. At this stage, the easiest way to deal with the pest!
Risk group
Most often, plants with delicate leaf plates and thin epithelium become victims of whiteflies. These are nephrolepis, tradescantia, pereromnia, fuchsia, pelargonium, Benjamin's ficus, abutilon, balsam.
Treatment and prevention
At the larval stage, the insect can be eradicated by spraying with insecticides, the most effective of which is Aktara. Agravertin, Inta-vir, Akarin, Fitoverm are also suitable. If the insects have already turned into moths, one spraying is not enough, because the white moth is very mobile. In this case, use adhesive tapes that catch flies. They will become traps for flying whiteflies!
Like other aggressors, this one also loves dry air and warmth. Spray and wipe the leaves more often, inspect them from all sides in order to catch the pest in time, ventilate the room more often.
Outwardly, it also looks like a moth, but differs in color (from light green to black), the size of adult insects is about 3 mm. Lives in large colonies, mostly on garden flowers! Ants are an indicator of the spread of aphids in garden conditions, which absorb the sweet secretions of aphids. These secretions attract other insects and serve as a provoking factor for the development of fungal diseases.
Aphids on indoor plants can be found in the summer. Feeding on their juice, the aphid infects young shoots, interferes with development and growth, causes deformation of old leaves and leaf fall. A plant attacked by aphids quickly dies! Therefore, it is important to have time to get rid of the insect until it has become very prolific. Aphids and other pests of garden flowers.
signs
The appearance of aphids can be observed on the apical shoots, buds, young branches, which are stuck around by an adult pest. As a result, the leaves are twisted, deformed. Aphids do not always know how to fly, there are also wingless individuals! Aphid larvae usually hide on the underside of the leaf.
Risk group
Like the whitefly, aphids prefer plants with delicate foliage. The most vulnerable are decorative leafy species with small leaves.
Treatment and prevention
The treatment is also similar to the previous case! Timely treatment with insecticidal and antifungal drugs (Akarin, Aktara, Iskra-bio, Inta-vir, etc.) can help. It is important to quarantine the plant in time and inspect those next to it, because aphids move easily!
If the insect did not have time to occupy the entire plant, you can cope without toxic preparations - give the flower a warm shower using laundry soap, or spray it with a solution of green soap.
Useful materials:
Folk recipes for pest control.
Diseases of indoor flowers: signs and treatment.How to drive away a flower midge. Sterilization of an earthen mixture - methods.
Now thrips, scale insects, mites and other pests of indoor flowers will not go unnoticed, and you will be able to effectively deal with them.
If you have any questions, be sure to ask them in the comments. ✿ If you liked the article, share it on social networks.
houseplant care
To breed indoor flowers, you need to be familiar with the elementary rules for caring for them. Some plants require minimal attention, others (rare or tropical specimens) are very capricious. The slightest mistake leads to their death or loss of a presentable appearance.
First of all, the grower must know how to get rid of pests. There are many types of them. Appear on home flowers: aphids, thrips, scale insects, false shields, spider mites, mealybugs, mushroom mosquitoes, root mites.
1 Harmful and persistent aphid
The simplest and most common pest is the aphid. It comes with or without wings. Individuals are egg-shaped. Dangerous by rapid reproduction. They do not need to have a female nearby. Most often, "clones" simply appear. In terms of species, pests are very diverse, they can be yellowish in color and even black.
Aphids are able to suck the juice from the plant. At the same time, pests release poison. After the toxin enters the leaves, they twist and deform. After a while they die off. The tops of the plant become twisted. Shoots stop growing.
The waste products of aphids (mandrel) heavily pollute the leaf plates of flowers. As a result, there is a violation of the normal life of cultures.
Aphids are carriers of various viruses. They are transmitted with the saliva of the pest. Infection causes great damage to plants.
It is very easy to notice signs of damage on plants. Pests settle in large colonies, most often on the fleshy, juicy and most tender parts of the plant. They leave a residue behind. If there are a lot of aphids, then its larvae can make the plant weak and dilapidated.
If pests are found, it is best to bathe the plant in the shower, and then spray it with a special preparation designed to combat aphids. A week later, for prevention, the plant is treated again.
Types of houseplants similar to palm trees and their care
2 thrips
Thrips occur almost daily. If you pick up an onion and remove the top husk, you can see the second layer. If it is sticky and unpleasant to the touch, has a silvery sheen, then there is a detrimental effect of thrips.
It is not so easy to notice pests on a plant. Its features are:
- elongated body (dimensions can be up to five millimeters);
- unremarkable color (may be black, gray or brown).
Thrips are omnivores. They can devour with appetite both a delicate rose and a prickly cactus. Plant tissue damaged by pests dies. In its place, black dots are formed and big holes. Leaves fall, wither. The plant loses its presentable appearance.
As a preventive measure, you should:
- humidify the air in the room (this type of pest does not like moisture);
- inspect the leaves both on the underside and on the surface;
- arrange shower procedures for flowers from time to time.
After getting rid of the problem, the flowers are treated with a systemic fungicide. This type of pest is able to transfer diseases from one plant to another.
Diseases of indoor flowers and how to deal with them
3 Shield, false shield
There are many varieties of shields. They feed on all kinds of crops. Once on the plant, they begin to secrete a sticky liquid on which the sooty fungus is able to settle.
The body of an adult insect has a hard, waxy shield. This feature of the pest makes it resistant to the effects of drugs, so spraying does not always help. Young individuals do not have such protection, it is a little easier to deal with them.
Individuals (regardless of age) cause serious damage to the plant. They feed on its juice. Even poisonous crops are susceptible to their attack.
After the appearance of the pest, the young shoots of the plant begin to dry. After that, the flower stops starting new shoots. It pours and the stems turn yellow, and then fall off. If you do not get rid of the scale insects at this stage, then you can lose the plant.
For prevention, you should spray the plants, ventilate the room. If possible, cut off the affected part of the flower. Specialized stores sell drugs designed to destroy this type of insect. Inspection should be done every few days.
Geranium Pest and Disease Control Methods
4 Spider mite
Spider mite appears unexpectedly. It is almost impossible to notice it until the plant itself shows that it is sick - spots will appear on the leaves.
At the first sign of the appearance of a pest, white dots can be seen on the reverse leafy side. After that, the leaves dry out, may turn yellow, the buds undergo deformation.
How active the tick will be depends on the temperature in the room. The higher it is, the more he likes it. If the conditions for the pest are not very suitable, then the females can begin to hide in the soil, under fallen leaves, in pot cracks.
When caring for plants, it is better to collect fallen leaves, wipe them with a damp sponge, or bathe flowers in warm water. The surest way to fight is to spray with a solution of effective drugs that can be found in a pharmacy or in specialized stores. It is best to use several types of poisons. Such ticks very quickly adapt to them, and after a while they are not afraid.
If your joints or back hurt, include in your diet ...
5 Mealybug
The mealybug is another indoor plant pest that is a sucking insect. In length, the individual reaches three and a half millimeters. It has an oval-shaped body with growths, a whitish or pinkish color. Such a pest is capable of settling either in the axils of the leaves, or on the stem itself.
An insect has only one pair of wings. Its larvae are able to penetrate the roots of plants. The mealybugs protect the laid eggs with the help of secretions having a cottony structure.
Mealybugs pierce the leaves and buds of the plant, and then suck out its juice. They do this until the culture dries up. Young insects are especially harmful. This is due to their mobility and the need for nutrients necessary for active growth. Those plants that have had the misfortune of being attacked by pests shed their leaves. Their shoots begin to lag behind in development and growth.
During puberty, males atrophy the oral apparatus. They stop drinking plant juices.
The worms secrete slurry, which promotes the development of soot fungus. You can fight the pest manually, armed with a cotton swab. With its help, adults are removed. After this, a spraying procedure should be carried out with preparations that will help exterminate small specimens.
6 Mushroom mosquito (sciarids)
This pest is a black and gray insect with a narrow body and a rounded head. An adult is unable to harm the plant. The danger is represented by larvae that live in moist soil. They gnaw on the tender roots of the plant. After that, the culture begins to hurt, ceases to bloom, fades. The plant may even die.
If there are a lot of midges, then they begin to feed on the ground parts of the plant. Young shoots are destroyed first.
To reveal it harmful insect, you must carefully examine the land in which the flower grows. If the mosquito larva does not get into the field of view, then everything is in order. It will be enough just to destroy those insects that fly. To do this, resort to the help of adhesive tape or dichlorvos. If the larvae are found, then you need to treat the soil with special powders that the flower owner can be advised in the store. Barguzin is perfect for wrestling.
To avoid the appearance of pests, it is not necessary to moisten the soil strongly. Keep the plant in dry conditions.
7 Root mites
Root mites are small in size. They are very tenacious, so it is not so easy to bring them out.
The most famous is the bulbous mite. He prefers to be on the bulbs of flowers such as: gladioli, hyacinths, tulips.
The pest lays huge amounts of eggs after eating away the tissue inside the bulb. Subsequently, the bulb breaks up, becomes soft and loose.
This type of mite is very fond of a humid environment. The best way to prevent is to store flower bulbs and tubers in a cool, dry place. In such an environment, such ticks are much less likely to survive and reproduce.
Ticks are found in almost any substrate. They might even be helpful. Thanks to them, the microflora that lives in the soil can function normally. There are even predators who are ready to eat other plant pests, while these types of mites are not dangerous for the flowers themselves.
The best way to control pests is to prevent their spread. When buying, you need to carefully examine the plant. Wash it at home and put it away from others for observation. It is not recommended to bathe the plants together in the same container, put them on the same pallet, swap the pallets, place them too closely. All this increases the likelihood of the spread of pests. The soil for transplanting crops must be sterilized. To increase the resistance of flowers, it is important to observe the conditions of cultivation and care.
When using chemicals, it is necessary to strictly follow the recommendations set out in the instructions, as well as observe the precautions when working with them. You should opt for the safest drugs.
If the treatment did not help and pests reappeared on the plant, you should not despair. The methods of action of the drugs are different and, perhaps, another remedy will be more effective.
It is impossible to guarantee protection against all pests. But you need to competently approach the cultivation of flowers. If you treat plants with care, attention, give enough time to care, then the house will always be green. Insects will not be able to significantly harm the flora if the owner does this.
How much excitement we bring diseases of our favorite plant. Only yesterday it looked great, and today you found traces of aphids or shiny tubercles of scale insects on its leaves. It is important to know in advance how to help him in such cases. How to deal with numerous enemies: insects, molluscs, rodents?
Let us consider in more detail each type of pest that causes trouble to indoor plants.
Aphids are a typical type of sucking insect. You can notice it with the naked eye, despite the fact that it is very small (about 2 mm). There are up to 200 of its species. At the end of winter, in spring, it appears on houseplants. In warm, stuffy rooms, aphids occur throughout the year.
The most common color of the insect is green, but there are gray, orange, yellow, black. Another name is known - greenfly. Although only males have wings.
The aphid is located in whole colonies on the underside of the leaves, on buds, young shoots and tender tops of the stems. It reproduces very quickly. Individuals reach full maturity in 7 days. The insect is saturated with the juice of plants, weakens them and is able to completely destroy them. In addition, it spreads viral diseases.
Failure to comply with growing conditions is the cause of the spread of aphids:
- excessive fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers;
- irrigation disturbances;
- illness.
Aphids are easy to recognize. Roses, abutilons, fuchsias are more often affected by it, and ficuses, milkweed, are not afraid of it.
How to get rid of aphids
The defeat of aphids is an unpleasant phenomenon, but must be eradicated.
Ways to get rid:
- Rinse with warm water. Used for minor damage to the plant. The method is not suitable for large plants or if they are just transplanted.
- Pinching the affected shoot.
- The use of oil aerosols and further processing with infusions of tobacco, wormwood.
- When using pesticides, it must be remembered that the frequent use of certain drugs contributes to the development of immunity in aphids.
Important to remember! Studying the instructions will allow you to avoid purchasing drugs containing the same active substance.
Effective remedies: pirimicarb, permethrin, derris, syphos, resmetrin, feverfew. Plants are treated once every 8 days. Only 4 procedures.
All processing work is best done outside, in the bathroom. Keep it straight Sun rays do not fall on the leaves before they dry. Dead insects remain on the plant. They are recommended to be washed off after the termination of the drug.
Special sticks and balls impregnated with insecticides, ready-made aerosols are sold.
Shchitovki
Scale insects are another representative of sucking pests. The most famous are ordinary, brown and false shields. Insects got their name from the waxy shiny shell that covers them. They stick to the leaves, stems and trunks of the plant. Thanks to the shield, it is difficult to recognize them. You can see only hatched vagrants looking for places to hide.
The damage to the plant by the scale insect is judged by yellow, brown or whitish spots on the leaves. The leaves lose their shine, they fade.
The shape of the body of the false shield is oval, its length is about 3 mm. The color ranges from yellowish grayish in larvae to yellowish brownish. Sometimes it is confused with aphids. It can damage cacti, palm trees.
Constant inspection with a magnifying glass or palpation with fingers reveals raised plaques on the plant.
How to deal with scale insects
Shield protection is a dense shell. The fight against them begins with the removal of insects. They take a thin hard brush or toothbrush, moisten it in alcohol, vodka or prepared soapy water and process the leaves once every 7 days for a month.
A few recipes for processing indoor plants:
- Prepare an emulsion. Beat until foam 10 g of soap with a glass of water. Combine with 30 g of machine oil. The soil is covered with foil. The composition is used to treat the leaves, stems and trunk of a damaged plant. After 12 hours, the emulsion is washed off. After two treatments with an interval of 10 days, scale insects die.
- You can take one small onion, 5 cloves of garlic or 50 g of hot pepper, chop, insist in 1 glass of water for a day. Strain. Treat the plant.
- If the moment is missed, there are many scale insects, chemical methods are used - treatment with insecticides: actellik, fosbecid, selinon.
Ticks
There are up to 10 thousand different ticks. Flower growers are troubled by cobweb and root onions.
Spider mites settle in the lower part of the leaves. They got their name for the cobweb, which appears at the place of its attachment to the vein. The appearance of a cobweb means that the lesion is serious. The leaves soon turn pale, turn white, turn yellow, dry out.
Ticks are resistant to most pesticides. It's hard to fight them.
Ways to deal with spider mites:
- removal of damaged shoots, leaves, flowers;
- washing with a shower or wiping with alcohol, soapy water(recipe for plants with large leaves);
- transfer of a diseased plant to a separate place;
- treatment with special preparations.
It is important to know! Treat with strong chemicals only on the street or on a loggia with an open window. It is advisable to carry out 4 procedures with different acaricides with an interval of 3-4 days. The pest may return. It is better not to rely on folk methods, but to use special means: nissoran, pyrethrum, oberon, sunmite, apollo, actellik. Acaricide is a special preparation for the fight against spider mites.
The enemy of bulbous and corm plants is root onion mites. They are located at the bottom of the bulbs. If during transplantation you notice that the bottom is damaged, then try to disinfect the bulb: heat it at a temperature not higher than 40 ° for 7-10 days, sprinkle with chalk.
Strawberry or cyclamen mite infects saintpaulias, balsams, cyclamen, pelargoniums. Ticks are located on the tops of shoots, in buds. It differs from the spider mite in that it spreads in wet conditions. When these pests are found, it is better to destroy the plant.
These are very small sucking insects. They develop rapidly at an air temperature of 20-28°. A decrease in temperature below 10 ° leads to a loss of their activity.
Damaged parts of the plant become discolored, turn brown and die. The leaves appear leaden. But unlike spider mites thrips do not have cobwebs. Plant growth slows down, flowers are deformed. It is the thrips that harm the flowers. You can see them jumping next to the plant.
Thrips control:
- increase watering and air humidity;
- spray with contact insecticides once every 8 days with re-treatment 4 times;
- cut off damaged leaves;
- use naphthalene balls to repel thrips.
Effective means: decis, karbofos, fitoverm.
greenhouse whitefly
She is a small white fly. They often appear in greenhouses. They multiply quickly. Affect the lower part of the leaves.
The whitefly can be found on balsams, pelargoniums, fuchsias, begonias. She settles on plants with tender leaves and flowering ones.
For catching it, special plates coated with glue are used. Place them directly into flower pots or hung nearby. Insecticides only affect adults. Recommended regular spraying after 10 days with drugs: pyrethrum, resmethrin, pirimifosmethyl, permethrin. You can buy insecticidal soap.
Recognition is complicated by the lack of obvious signs. If you see a plant dying, look at the roots. The presence of swellings on them is a sign of a nematode.
The plant must be burned. Don't just throw it away.
Sciarid mosquitoes are brought into the soil room from the garden. Gradually, the larvae, similar to small worms, become small black flies. They do not cause any particular problems. Only larvae can damage the roots of small or weakened plants.
The reasons for their appearance:
- excessive soil moisture;
- the presence of a substrate enriched with organic fertilizers.
Watering the soil with malathion or permethrin will help kill these insects. Make sure the soil dries out well between waterings.
Prevention measures
Gardening Tips:
- new plants should not be immediately placed next to their own, let them stand separately for 14 days;
- conduct regular inspections of the leaves from below;
- indoor flowers love cleanliness, spray them more often;
- do not install plants close to each other, crowding promotes the spread of pests.
Folk pest control methods help only at the initial stage. If the moment is missed - use chemicals.
