Facade painting. Painting the facade of the house: choose the type of paint for the facade of your house, painting options. Advantages of the proposed facade painting technology
Well, it seems that the times of plastic and steel facades have come, and painting the facade of a house should become a thing of the past as a kind of anachronism. But a person does not live by siding alone, and therefore people still try to revive the external walls of the house with the help of paint and give them an attractive look.
The question, of course, on the one hand, is simple. And on the other hand, they are so diverse, the technology of painting facades has stepped forward so much that it’s worth once again sorting out this issue.
Why paint the facade?
External painting of the facade of the house performs two functions: aesthetic and protective. If a person is greeted by clothes, then the first impression of the house and its owners is made by the facade.
Painting a house with facade paint can also emphasize individual architectural features buildings, highlight the architectural elements of the outer walls.
Moreover, it is she who is the final stage, as a result of which a country house or cottage gets a finished and attractive look. The protective aspect of this process is also obvious, because it is the facade that takes, how to say, the first blow of the external environment: wind, moisture, rain, snow, sunlight and other weather influences.
The main stages of painting
It only at first glance may seem that painting the facade of a building is a simple and simple process, and therefore accessible to everyone. However, the way it is, but without the help of specialists here, nevertheless, one cannot do. And although anyone can paint the facade, only a professional can do it easily and efficiently, ultimately saving money for the owner of the home.
Modern house painting as a process consists of several stages. Let's consider each of them in more detail.
Preparatory stage
The first stage can be called preparatory, it is produced before painting the facade of the house. It itself is divided into two stages. First of all, it is necessary to evaluate the external walls. It consists in the fact that the type of material from which the walls of the building are erected is determined. As you know, modern housing is built in most cases from brick, but others are also used. Construction Materials, for example, slag concrete, concrete, gas blocks and other wall materials, which are then.
Recently, wooden log cabins have become fashionable again. The latter, as a rule, are varnished and their own separate technology is used there. , read on our website in a separate article (follow the link).
All others are often plastered, so the same methods are used to paint them.
But regardless of what material the building is built from, the main stages for all types of houses are the same and in many ways similar, differing only in nuances caused by the specifics of a particular material.
It is at this stage that it is worth using the services of experts who can give useful advice, which in the future will protect the owners from the need for alterations, which means unnecessary financial costs.
Then you need to prepare the walls themselves for painting. Clean them from dirt, dust, old paint if the house has already been painted before. If necessary, wipe the cracks or cover up the pits, if there are any.
For what? Then, that painting the house with facade paint is done in several fairly thin layers. And if you do not prepare the surface in advance and do not make it perfectly even, then after the painting is done, it will be impossible to look at what happened without regret. The walls of the house will be painted, but there will be no “new” look due to defects, depressions, dents and pits.
Padding
The second stage will be the primer of the walls. It also consists of two stages. Using special impregnations, the walls should be degreased. In order for the paint to adhere well to the surface of the facade, a special primer should be applied to it.
For old walls, it is best to use modern deep penetration primers that come with paint systems.
Painting
Having completed all these preparatory work you can actually start painting. Painting of the walls of the facade is carried out with various tools.
Some skill will require painting the walls with a roller or spray gun.
In any case, brushes are indispensable. They will have to be used for painting in hard-to-reach places.
How to paint the facade - the choice of paint
Already according to their original purpose, houses are built in order, as they say, to have a roof over their heads, to protect a person from heat and cold, wind, rain, snow, hail.
Depending on a particular area, the impact of these factors may be different in intensity. Even after a few kilometers, there may already be a different microclimate. Somewhere winds can blow stronger, in another place - high humidity.
And all these external factors, therefore, for its better protection, it is necessary to paint, while not forgetting about the aesthetic side.
Choosing facade paints
What is the best way to paint the facade of the house? That's right, facade paint. To her and only to her. No oil, pentaphthalic paints or nitro enamels are suitable for this. They can paint the fence or the floor in the barn, but not the outer walls of your home.
Modern technology for painting facades involves the use of complex systems for cleaning, priming, painting and protecting the paint layer. Several of these systems from global manufacturers are always available for sale in a large hardware store.
One point - you should not use the composition for cleaning the old paint and varnish system from one system, the primer from the second, and the paint from the third.
Sometimes paintwork components from different systems from different manufacturers are very poorly compatible. For example, you will not put a part from Moskvich in Toyota, will you? Here is the same situation.
All these nuances should be taken into account when choosing paint, and the color factor is not so significant. Now the market offers a wide color palette of paints, so choosing the color of paint to your taste is quite simple. More important is the ability to choose the right quality paint.
Features of choice
The price factor in many cases is decisive, but, nevertheless, you should not save on paint. As a rule, cheaper paints are not so wear-resistant and durable, fade faster under the influence of ultraviolet rays, and are washed off faster under the influence of external precipitation. After some time, you will have to paint the facade of the house again.
Paints intended for interior and exterior use have the same disadvantage, even though the price may be high. The paint must be weatherproof.
If the surface of the façade has already been painted, then the new paint should be of the same type that was used before.
If earlier oil or acetone paints, lime were used, now a new group of paints has appeared on the market. Recently, acrylic water-dispersion facade paints, which have excellent technological and operational properties, have been very popular.
scaffolding
Then you need to provide access to the wall surface, i.e. build forests. They will be needed at all stages of work, both preparatory and priming. Not to mention the fact that painting the facade of a house without scaffolding is impossible.
It is unrealistic to paint the entire facade of the house from a ladder, you can only paint over it in this way small areas outer walls.
You can make forests from improvised materials, on wooden base or steel pipes. And you can use inventory quick-gathering scaffolding or a tower - round.
If, on one floor, then painting the walls with facade paint can be done from the scaffolds. Or you can use a roller with a long handle, but then you will not be able to touch up the defects in the upper part, under the roof overhang.
Features of priming external walls
After the walls are cleaned of dirt and dust, all cracks are wiped and holes are covered, if any, it is advisable to apply a primer. In addition to providing better paint adhesion to the facade surface, it also provides antiseptic biological protection against mold, fungus or microorganisms.
On the places where the putty material was applied (cracks, pits), after its final drying, it is necessary to apply a primer using a brush.
After waiting for the necessary time for the primer to dry completely, specified in the instructions, you can start priming the entire wall. You must strictly follow the instructions. However, it is advisable to use a brush to apply the primer. This method provides a more thorough application and deeper penetration into the material of the surface of the facade.
If the house is located in an area where adverse weather factors are especially strong (for example, high humidity), then after the first layer of primer has dried, another one can be applied - the facade painting technology for extreme conditions implies this.
Final preparation for painting
In fact, almost everything is ready for painting the house. For greater convenience, it is advisable to cover places that do not require painting with paper or masking tape. This is especially true when several colors are used to decorate the house.
Windows also need to be covered with something in order to avoid the need to clean them from accidentally getting paint in the future. It can be a plastic film, a piece of plywood of the appropriate size, in the end, put a newspaper on the wet glass.
Features of painting in two colors
The paint is selected, the surface of the wall is prepared, you can proceed to the painting itself. If the design of painting the facade of the house involves a decision in several colors (for example, white edging is supposed around the windows), then you must first paint these smaller decorative elements with a brush.
In order to achieve a sharper edge, you can use masking tape, but not entirely necessary. After all, later, even if there were “arrivals” on the main surface of the wall, they will be covered with the main facade paint.
This sequence is preferable to first painting the walls in the main color, and only then proceed to painting small decorative elements. Even if there are streaks, they can be wiped off calmly and without problems. After completing this stage of work, the brush must be thoroughly rinsed. It may still be needed in the future.
After waiting for the paint applied to the decorative elements to dry, you can proceed to the main front of work. It is also desirable to cover them with something. Since they are usually small size, then masking tape is quite suitable for such purposes. It will also allow you to make a more strict border between two different colors.
Painting tools
Now the question arises which tool to choose for painting the facade wall. For painting use brushes, rollers or spray guns. It all depends on the area to be covered.
tassel
Using a brush allows you to apply the paint more thoroughly and evenly, but this option is suitable for relatively small surfaces.
It may happen that one brush will not be enough. You should also be very responsible in its acquisition, check if the villi fall out.
But this method is available to most people, especially if the facade is painted with their own hands.
Roller
The roller allows you to quickly cover large surfaces, but its use requires some skill. If there is no experience in using it, then it is better to entrust the matter to specialists.
With inept use, stripes of different color saturation may appear on the surface of the facade, and you will have to paint the wall again. Hard-to-reach places should be tinted with a brush.
Airbrush
It seems easier and faster to work with an airbrush. The main thing here is to keep it constantly at the same angle and at the same distance from the surface to be painted and drive it evenly.
Any hardware store or DIY - supermarket offers a wide range of spray guns, with which walls can be painted with facade paint at a professional level.
In order to choose an airbrush, you will only have to select the appropriate article on a profiling site or forum, where they not only tell you how to properly paint the facade of a house.
But they also offer help and advice in choosing a painting tool. It is on such sites and forums that you can find out which spray gun is worth buying and which is not, which one is useful for your case.
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Painting the facade is appropriate for both new buildings (in order to give aesthetic appearance building), and as a renewal of old surfaces after repair. If you decide to ennoble or renovate the facade of your house, then first you need to learn how to properly paint the facade.
Different walls (brick, wood or plastered surface) require a different approach to work. Below we will talk about how to properly conduct them.
Brick wall
Used to update brick wall painting method, you can easily mask all defects, level the surface, and most importantly, give the building the necessary color.
Note! If you do not take into account all the rules for painting a brick facade, you risk depriving your house of the main thing - vapor permeability. In other words, it will turn into a sealed damp box.
The main criteria for future work:
- Make sure you need to paint. Today, manufacturers offer a choice of many options for bricks, ranging from shapes to a variety of colors. In fact, it will last a long time in finished form, and if you resort to painting it, then after 5-6 years you will have to renew the coating.
- Don't paint new walls. If you paint fresh masonry, then you run the risk of encountering various defects that will appear later. It is necessary to wait until the natural shrinkage of the walls occurs.
To start painting, you must first carry out preparatory work:
- Remove all traces of mold and fungal deposits (if any) from the surface, for this special compounds are used.
- After that, you need to remove with the help of an iron brush and water all the "efflorescence" from such compounds.
- If necessary, masonry joints should be renewed and all cracks should be sealed with putty.
- Then let the surface dry completely. If you paint a wet wall, then later the paint may swell and burst in these places.
- At the end of the preparatory stage, the surface is primed, but just do not use alkaline solutions.
You need to paint starting from the top of the wall. To do this, you can build scaffolding. Work is carried out using brushes of various widths. For example, if it is better to paint the brick directly with a wide brush, then it is more convenient to process the seams with a thinner brush.
Note! Even though the brick solid material and one coat of paint to give color will be enough, it is better to treat the surface in three layers. This approach will increase the moisture resistance of the coating.
Unlike a brick wall, a plastered surface requires a different work technology. In order for the painting of the facade of the house with your own hands to go right, you need to do this in several stages, between which a certain period of time is maintained.
If you need to paint a new plastered facade, then wait for the plaster to dry completely. When repairing the surface, close all cracks and smooth out irregularities. After that, the entire surface should dry for 4-5 days. It is desirable to process the wall with sandpaper so that the surface becomes as smooth as possible.
A primer should be applied to a smooth smooth surface of the facade, which will greatly facilitate the application of paint and improve quality. It is better to prime in several layers. After that, it is also necessary to allow the surface to dry.
Note! It is better to paint a plastered wall with a roller in several layers, with the necessary drying time for each. The time required for this is indicated on the can of paint.
wooden facade
Wooden walls can be painted even without preparing the surface in advance, in any case, the paint will cover all defects, but the only question is how long the layer will last. No matter how expensive paint you buy, it will still not change the structure of the old wood and after a while you will need to repaint the surface again.
One way or another, at first it is still better to carefully prepare the surface.
Grinding. Sanding means removing old layers of paint or varnish with a special machine. If processing of an unpainted surface is required, then the top layer is removed from the tree - 1 mm.
Padding. Primer is produced special formulations with antiseptics. Treat not only horizontal boards or logs, but also the ends, because through them moisture is absorbed more intensively.
Painting instructions wooden facade:
- You need to start work with the top logs or boards.
- Joints are best painted with a beveled brush from the bottom edge of the board. Such a brush will more subtly allow you to process in-depth places.
- Wide parts are painted with a wide brush at regular intervals to prevent the paint from running off.
- In some places, the paint may be more deeply absorbed, and the color of the surface will be noticeably different. In this case, you need to paint over it again.
Note! After painting, inspect the surface and check the uniformity of the painted layer. When a thicker layer of paint is applied in some places, after drying it is very different from the general surface. Only applying a uniform layer will make the painted surface perfect.
It is possible to carry out such work on your own, but before you paint the facade of the house, you need to choose the right materials, i.e. paint.
- First of all, these are outdoor works, and the material must be resistant to ultraviolet radiation and precipitation.
- So that the paint does not peel off over time, it is better to choose an option with high vapor permeability. This is especially true for wooden houses.
- Elasticity - not less than important element which the paint should have. Such material does not deform after possible shrinkage of the building or deformation of the surface.
Choosing the right paint is quite difficult, but the right choice will directly affect the quality of the coating and how long it lasts.
For example, the most economical option is paint on water based will give the surface a cleaner look. In addition, this is the most profitable solution in financial terms. Such paints are more suitable for brick or plastered surfaces.
Acrylic paint is suitable for any surface. Its service life reaches 7 years. It has good hydro-repellency.
Oil paint is more suitable for wood or plaster walls. It has a good binding property and will create a reliable surface protection for 10 years.
As you can see, there is nothing difficult in self-painting there is no facade, the main thing is to choose the material and carry out the preparatory work. If you already have experience of such works, share it with our readers.
Video
Watch the video on the selection of facade paint for different surfaces facade:
Painting the facade of a house traditional look finishing of the external surfaces of the walls of buildings, which has been used for many decades and is one of the most available ways. Paint and varnish compositions not only give the house an aesthetic appearance, but also are a reliable protective agent against external atmospheric influences and the negative influences inherent in our time of industrial emissions.
Such staining can be used as a finish for surfaces from the most different materials both natural and synthetic. Paints and varnishes become an excellent protective agent for wood used in the construction of houses in various forms, even and embossed mineral plaster surfaces, as well as for other materials.
The main types of facade paints
For each type of facade surface, there is a type of paint that will reliably protect the walls from rain and snow, sunlight and wind, biodegradation and erosion. Therefore, it is necessary to figure out which composition is optimally suitable for repair and finishing works for the façade to last long years without the need for restoration.
Water based paints
Water-based colorful compositions are among the most popular for finishing the facade. They are distinguished by high technical and operational and decorative characteristics, such as vapor and gas permeability, elasticity, high hiding power and almost complete absence of smell.
Water-soluble paints are most often produced in white and tinted with special color pigments, which is very convenient if you plan to use several shades for painting a house. So, a white base composition and various pigments are acquired, and then they are mixed.
However, if this process is planned to be carried out independently, then it is necessary to produce at once the entire necessary volume of the paint composition necessary for a certain area. If you are not sure that everything will turn out well, then you can choose the right color in the store and order its manufacture.
Water-soluble paints are divided into acrylic, silicate, silicone, as well as mixed formulations.
- acrylic paint easy to use, so it is quite popular for facade finishing work. Similar compositions are made on an acrylic organic basis and are well suited for various surfaces, except for those made of lime and silicate materials.
Acrylic facade paint - a good solution for exterior decoration
Such paints attract both an affordable price and a solid set of positive qualities. More detailed information about such compositions, in comparison with other materials used for facade decoration, is available in the article of our portal.
- Rubber (latex) paint - This less common type of water-based paint composition consists of acrylate polymers with the addition of a latex component and a color pigment that gives it a rich shade.
Rubber acrylate paint is suitable for surfaces made of various materials- this is concrete, metal, plaster, wood, drywall, brick and others. It is often used to update finishes previously coated with oil, alkyd or other types of paints.
Solutions are very economically consumed, easy to apply and dry fairly quickly. The coating of this composition is highly resistant to temperature extremes, to ultraviolet radiation, humidity and other adverse effects.
Unlike other water-soluble compositions, such paint is most often produced in tinted form and is presented in a wide range of shades.
latex paint prices
- Acrylic silicone solutions combine positive traits silicone and acrylic compounds. Their main purpose is to cover facade walls made of materials such as brick, concrete, cinder blocks or covered with mineral plaster.
Such compositions are resistant to atmospheric influences and industrial emissions, have water-repellent qualities and have high vapor permeability, well resist the development of mold, fungus, mosses, lichen. In addition, the paint is an environmentally friendly product and does not emit harmful fumes when heated or exposed to ultraviolet rays.
- silicate paints are made on the basis of potash liquid glass, and are excellent for coating mineral surfaces such as concrete, stone and plastered facade walls.
Paints are highly resistant to ultraviolet rays, so they do not lose their color for many years. In addition, the applied coating is characterized by increased strength, resistance to temperature extremes, adverse atmospheric and other influences.
The peculiarity is that the facade requires special preparation - priming with a solution also only on a silicate basis. In addition, if the surfaces were painted with silicate paint, then it will no longer be possible to update with any other paint in the future - for silicate, all other compositions fit extremely poorly. You will either have to reuse silicate, or carry out deep cleaning from the old cover.
Improved types of silicate paints are currently being produced - these are silicate-ash and polysilicon, which are excellent for applying to walls made of organic materials. The disadvantages of these innovative colorful materials can be attributed to their high cost.
- Silicone facade paint is both water-repellent and vapor-permeable. The solution is resistant to external influences, is not subject to chalking, has the property of self-cleaning (rainwater easily washes away all impurities), is resistant to the appearance and development of mold, vapor permeable and water resistant. In addition, after drying, no internal stresses are formed in such a coating, since it is characterized by high elasticity.
This type of paint goes well with any acrylic compounds, therefore, in order to improve the qualities of acrylic paints and to achieve certain savings, they are sometimes mixed with each other.
Prices for silicone facade paint
silicone facade paint
- Polyvinyl acetate paints are also used for finishing facade walls, but they are not popular, since in terms of their performance they are significantly inferior to acrylic-based compositions. This paint quickly loses its qualities, including decorative ones - it fades, turns yellow, and is damaged by mechanical stress.
The biggest advantage of such compositions is their low price. However, it hardly makes sense to succumb to the temptation, hoping that the paint will withstand the pressure of an aggressive environment for more than one or two years, depending on weather conditions region. It is recommended to apply this paint only on primed silicate plaster - on other surfaces, it will not linger for a long time, nor will it create any significant protection for them.
- Lime compositions used to cover plastered surfaces. This variant of paints today can be found in a ready-to-use form or in a concentrated paste, which is diluted with water immediately before use. Lime mortars include antiseptic substances in their composition that prevent the appearance of various types of fungal formations on the surface. The compositions are tinted before use with mineral coloring pigments.
- cement paints are sold as dry mixes and are mixed with water before use. The binder in this type of paint is Portland cement, which, interacting with polymer additives and dyes, creates an aesthetic, durable, moisture-resistant and vapor-permeable coating on plastered walls. It is impossible to say about the high popularity of such compositions - apparently, because of the considerable inconvenience in their use and because of the limited scope.
Organic paints
This type of paint includes alkyd enamels and oil compositions, which have proven to be good performance indicators that allow them to be used for finishing facade surfaces. The disadvantages of these solutions are their toxicity and flammability. In addition, with improper preparation of surfaces for painting, under a layer of oil paint, with temperature changes, condensation may form, leading to cracking of the paint layer.
- Oil paints. These solutions are made on the basis of drying oil, to which a coloring pigment is added from finely ground mineral powder, which does not dissolve in the main binder. Therefore, before use, oil paints must be mixed very carefully in order to achieve complete uniformity of the composition. The composition of oil solutions also includes film-forming substances that reduce the drying time of the applied layer.
This type of paint can be used to cover any type of surface, but before applying the paint composition, the walls must be prepared by applying one of the special primers to them.
Modern finishing decorative paints on oil based, unlike old solutions, has high technical and operational characteristics - it is excellent adhesion to primed surfaces, resistance to temperature extremes, moisture and other negative influences.
These paints also have their drawbacks, for example, they quickly lose their original color under the influence of ultraviolet radiation. Therefore, it is recommended to use light shades for painting facade surfaces, since traces of fading are less visible on them. The paint has bad smell, which, however, disappears over time. Drying of the applied layer requires a long time. The walls of the house, painted with an oil composition, require an annual revision for peeling and cracking of the paint.
- Alkyd paints. These compositions are made on the basis of alkyd varnishes, to which coloring pigments and solvents are added. On the packaging of the composition, its purpose is necessarily indicated, that is, the scope. So, enamels are produced that are intended not only for external and internal work, but created specifically for painting, for example, wood, metal, plastered and other surfaces. In addition, there are universal compositions that are suitable for application to any materials.
On the packaging, the manufacturer indicates the scope of application with a marking consisting of letters and numbers, for example, PF-115. IN this case the letters indicate on what basis the paint is made (pentaphthal varnish), the number "1" is suitability for outdoor use, "2" - only for indoor use. Instead, there may be other numbers, for example, "4" - these are waterproof enamels, and "5" - paints with special qualities, for example, glowing in the dark, "6" indicates oil and petrol resistance, "7" - increased chemical resistance , "8" - about resistance to extremely high temperatures, etc.
The second two digits "15" is the code according to the catalog of paints and varnishes (this information is no longer of particular value to the user).
Alkyd enamels have good elasticity and durability, resistance to ultraviolet radiation and temperature extremes. The disadvantages of such paints can be considered low resistance to alkalis, flammability, and a tendency to fade - over time, the painted surface loses its luster, and white paint may turn yellow.
Below is a brief comparative table of the main qualities of the paint compositions most often used for finishing facade surfaces (we are talking, of course, about the use of high-quality paints):
| Properties of colorful compositions | Acrylic water based paints | Alkyd enamels | Oil paints |
|---|---|---|---|
| Application | +/++ | ++ | +/++ |
| Bottling | +/++ | +++ | +/++ |
| The formation of sagging | - | - | ++ |
| Foaming | from - to ++ | - | - |
| hiding power | + | ++ | +++ |
| Spreading | + | ++ | - |
| Drying (up to 1 degree) | 1 hour | from 6 to 12 hours | from 24 to 48 hours |
| Shine | +/++ | +++ | ++ |
| Shine retention | +++ | +/- | + |
| Yellowing | - | +++/++ | + |
| Elasticity | ++ | + | ++ |
| scratch resistance, hardness | + | ++ | +++ |
| Adhesion | ++ | ++ | ++ |
| Weather resistance | ++ | +/++ | +++ |
| Water resistance | +/++ | ++/+++ | +++ |
| «-» - property is not expressed or completely absent | |||
| «+» - the property is expressed to one degree or another, according to the increase in the number of pluses |
How to choose the type of paint for a particular surface?
To be sure that the facade paint chosen for finishing can last a long time, does not crack or crumble, it is necessary to know the requirements that apply to the material intended for such an application.
Facade paint must meet a number of important requirements Facade paint for walls built from different materials must meet certain criteria that you should rely on when making a choice. The parameters of the composition must be necessarily located on the packaging, therefore, when purchasing a finishing material, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with them.
| Evaluation criterion | Short description |
|---|---|
| Weather resistance | The selected paint should protect the wall material from moisture, dust, temperature changes and wind. And this means that the packaging should indicate that the composition is intended specifically for external, facade works and is designed for various atmospheric influences. |
| UV Protection | Ultraviolet has a negative effect on any materials, and if the paint is not yet resistant to moisture, then the destruction process will intensify. Therefore, the composition must be resistant to moisture and UV rays. To do this, it is best to select compositions containing special components that can reflect the sun's rays. |
| Coating strength | So that the coating does not crack and quickly lose its appearance, it is necessary that the safety margin of this value be included in the characteristics. |
| Service life of the coating | The manufacturer usually indicates the service life of the painted surfaces on the packaging, and the longer it is, the better the product. |
| The presence of antiseptic additives | It is recommended to choose a paint and varnish composition that includes protective substances, even if walls that have been previously treated with a sanitizing primer will be painted. From this, the resistance of the wall to biological damage will only increase. |
| Paint consumption | Different paints may have different consumption per 1 square meter of surface. Usually this indicator depends not only on the consistency of the solution, but also on the quality of preparation and texture of the surface to be painted, as well as the method of applying the composition. The packaging indicates average this parameter, and if there is a desire to save money, then you should also pay attention to it. |
| Adhesion | This quality will depend on the compatibility of paint and surface, as well as on the quality of the preparation of the latter. |
| Vapor permeability | The paint must pass steam, that is, allow the wall to "breathe", otherwise condensate will accumulate under the applied layer, which will contribute to the peeling of the paint from the wall and the development of microflora. |
If, studying the packaging, the buyer comes to the conclusion that there was not enough information on it, then he should ask the seller for a passport or certificate attached to the product. And even better - prepare for going to the store in advance, find the right paint on one of the many sites and study its characteristics - most well-known paint and varnish manufacturers have their own proprietary Internet sites in Russian. Then you can go shopping or even order it from home.
Find out, as well as how to choose the best one, in a special article of our portal.
The process of painting the facade of the house
It is not enough to figure out how to choose the optimal paint composition for a particular surface. To obtain a high-quality coating, it is necessary to take into account another important factor - the correct time and conditions for the work.
oil paint prices
Oil paint
- It is not recommended to paint in the spring, during the flowering of most plants, since pollen moved by air masses and an abundance of insects can easily spoil all the work done, sticking to the surface of freshly painted walls. If, nevertheless, it became necessary to carry out the finishing process during this period, then it is best to choose a paint that sets quickly and dries completely.
- You should not make external staining in sunny hot weather, as the colorful compositions will dry quickly and unevenly, without gaining the necessary strength, which will significantly reduce their durability. In the event that staining is scheduled for such a time, it is necessary to at least follow the course of the sun, starting the application process from the shady side of the house, and gradually move to the surfaces on which the shadow will pass. In this way, to a certain extent, the exposure time of a freshly painted surface under ultraviolet radiation can be minimized.
- It is not recommended to start painting the walls in the pre-storm period. There are two reasons for this. The first is that before rain, insects fly in the lower layers of the air, exactly at the level of the walls of buildings, and can also stick to painted surfaces. The second, obviously, is that heavy rain can damage the layers of applied paint or reduce their adhesive ability. In this case, the paint will not last long on the facade, it will begin to crack, peel off and fall off, and adhering insects will spoil the aesthetic appearance of the walls.
- It is recommended to apply paint on the facade at air humidity not higher than 80%. Optimal temperatures the range from +15 to +25 ºС is considered. Temperature limits - from +5 to +30 ºС.
- It is best to start work in the morning, after the morning dew has dried, and finish an hour or two before the evening dew falls, otherwise moisture will reduce the glossy qualities of the coating.
- Favorable for the staining process will be cool and dry, sometimes cloudy weather.
Painting and restoration of facade walls
Timely and correctly carried out preparatory and finishing operations will make the coating reliable, which will significantly increase the time until the need for another cosmetic repair appears.
Preparation and painting of the plastered facade
Repair and painting of plastered surfaces is a rather laborious process that requires a careful approach. Only in this case, the coating will turn out to be durable and able to protect the walls from atmospheric influences.
Work performed step by step, according to the technology presented below, must necessarily be crowned with a successful finale. Repair of plastered surfaces must be carried out before the start of the rainy season and the onset of frost.
| Illustration | |
|---|---|
 | In the example under consideration, the facade plastered with cement-based embossed plaster will be repaired and painted. This is how the house looked before the work, after its operation for 50 years. Its walls will be painted with Tikkurila's ready-to-use HOLVI white lime paint. This paint option is quite profitable, since only ordinary water is required to dilute it. |
 | The first step is to carry out revision measures - to examine the walls that require repair. In order to determine the weak points of the old plaster, the walls are gently tapped with a hammer. Layers that have peeled off or poorly adhered to the wall will make a dull sound - “bubble”. If the old plaster layer has become brittle and brittle during operation, then it must be completely or partially removed, leaving, in extreme cases, only absolutely “healthy” areas. |
 | The next step is to wash off the old paint and salt stains from the surface of the walls, which have come out under the influence of moisture over the entire operational period. For this work, pressurized water is used. |
 | As a result of washing, additional flaws may also be found, which will also need to be removed to the ground. |
 | If cracks and shedding are detected, it is necessary to cut them. This process is carried out using a puncher with a specific nozzle, or a grinder with a stone disc installed on it. The expansion of seams and chips is necessary to get rid of the damage formed along their edges and to achieve penetration of the repair compound to the entire depth of the defect. Expanding and deepening them, it is necessary to reach the area of tight adhesion of the plaster layer to the wall. |
 | In addition to electric tools, manual tools, such as a chisel and a hammer, are also used to remove loose plaster. |
 | Next, cleaned cracks and other damage are thoroughly washed with water, also supplied under pressure. |
 | Then, a thin adhesive plaster layer is applied to the wall, into the prepared and washed crack. It should occupy approximately ⅓ of its depth. You don't need to flatten this layer. Restoration of old plaster is carried out with the same or similar material. The applied layer is left to dry for 12-16 hours. During this period, it must be periodically sprayed with water - then the solution will acquire greater strength and high adhesion to the wall surface and the edges of the old plaster. |
 | While the repair mortar is drying out, in order not to waste time, it is worthwhile to protect the basement surface. The easiest way to do this is with ordinary newspapers. To do this, a paste is applied to the walls of the basement, then newspapers are fixed on it, if necessary, they are passed over them from above with the same adhesive composition. It is very important to check that the top edge of the plinth is well protected, as this will receive most of the splashes of paint during application. |
 | The convenience of this method of protection also lies in the fact that after completion of the work, the newspapers are easily removed from the surface using a jet of water supplied under pressure. |
 | In addition to the plinth, it is recommended to close the door windows and slopes with polyethylene - these measures will protect them from pollution and, therefore, save you from unnecessary, rather laborious work after painting the facade. |
 | When the first layer of the solution in the cracks sets, and the time comes for applying the next one, then before proceeding with this operation, the crack is again moistened with water. Next, the seam is filled with repair mortar until it is almost level with the surface of the old plaster layer. However, it is necessary to leave room for a relief top layer, if present in the old finish. The work is done by throwing a solution. After the seams and recesses are filled with a repair mixture, they are moistened and left to dry for 8-12 hours, depending on the depth of the seam. In the process of drying, the sealed places must also be moistened with water - this will also strengthen the solution and eliminate the risk of cracking after drying. |
 | After the above period has elapsed, the repaired areas, after wetting them, are covered with an upper covering layer of plaster, which will equalize its height and relief with the general surface. A couple of hours after applying the plaster, these areas are wetted and left to dry for another 5-6 hours. |
 | Lime paint is sold ready-made, but before use it requires dilution of the mixture with water to the optimum consistency. |
 | If you want to give the paint the desired shade, you can entrust this process to specialists who will do it on special equipment, or you can do it yourself. Best to choose professional approach, because otherwise the surface after its coloring may have an uneven shade in tone. |
 | Before painting the repaired wall, the surfaces are also washed with water, as wet plaster will be in good contact with this paint composition. |
 | The next step is the final preparation of the paint. Water is added to it, in accordance with the proportions indicated on the package, and then using a construction mixer or an electric drill with a nozzle installed on it, the solution is kneaded. |
 | Painting starts from the upper areas of the walls of the facade. On the relief surface, the lime paint mortar is applied traditionally, using a round paint brush. It can have a long or short pile - the best option choose average length, which will capture the paint well from the container and give it to the surface of the wall with fine relief. |
 | The solution is applied in a circular motion, as it must fill all the relief recesses. It is important to ensure that the paint is distributed evenly over the surface of the wall. It must be remembered that lime contains alkali, which easily corrodes the skin on the hands, so the skin must be protected by wearing rubber gloves. Eyes must be protected by goggles from accidental splashes of paint. |
 | Lime paint is applied in two or three layers, with drying of each of them during the day. |
 | Every 4÷5 hours after applying each layer, it is recommended to moisten the surface with water. The final coat of paint must be applied to one side of the building in one pass, without interruption, to avoid visible joints and seams between passes. After applying the last layer, the surface of the walls needs to be moistened again - this process will make the paint coating more durable and durable. |
 | The result after the painting is completed is obvious, as the surfaces of the house shone with cleanliness and neatness. |
Painting a wooden facade with tinted varnish
The technology for painting wooden surfaces is not overly complicated, but the work itself is quite laborious, since any such finish requires preliminary preparation. Applying paint to wood is recommended to be done with a wide brush, so the process will be quite lengthy if carried out alone. Moreover, in order for the coloring of each of the walls to be even, each layer on the entire visible surface should be done in one go.
So, before proceeding directly to painting work, all walls must be prepared, and regardless of whether the house has just been built, or has been serving for more than a year. These activities are carried out step by step, as well as the process of applying paint itself.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation to be performed |
|---|---|
 | First you need to consider how to clean the old surface of the walls of the wooden facade. There were almost no signs of staining left on it, and in addition, wood, under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, moisture and temperature changes, acquired a gray, gloomy look. In addition, the upper fibers of the wood have softened over the years of use, and if they are not cleaned off, then the new paint will not stay on the surface for a long time. |
 | The easiest way to clean such a complex neglected surface is with a metal brush nozzle, which is fixed on an angle grinder (“grinder”) or an electric drill. |
 | Since these tools operate at high speeds, work will pass fast enough. Moreover, immediately after removing the top layer, the result will be visible, since the wood will acquire a natural color. When working, be sure to take measures to protect the eyes from the possible ingress of fine wood dust, chips, particles of old paint, as well as fragments of the metal pile of the brush. |
 | If the house is only built from a log or timber, even if the material is well processed, it will also have to be sanded, and this will be the first stage in its preparation for painting. New wood, not yet weathered, can be sanded with a vibrating, random orbital or belt sander. If the wood from which the walls are built is rough, has small scratches and villi, then first sandpaper with a grain of 80 ÷ 120 units is used to grind it, and then it is polished to smoothness with fine-grained sandpaper with a grain of 180 ÷ 220 units. |
 | Sanding the material solves two important problems - the old layer of wood is removed and the surface becomes smooth. At the same time, as a result of such treatment, the pores of the fibers are opened in the wood, through which the antiseptic impregnation will penetrate deeply into the structure of the material. If dry wood is chosen for building a house, then after it has been treated with an antiseptic, the likelihood of fungus, mold or moss is practically reduced to zero. If the humidity of wooden parts is 25-30%, then the formation of microflora colonies remains quite probable. Therefore, the better the surface is polished, the deeper the antiseptic will penetrate and thereby create reliable protection not only from mold, but also from other negative influences. |
 | When the surface of the new or old material of the facade walls is sanded, it is cleaned of wood dust with a wide brush or a soft brush. Next, you can proceed to applying a protective antiseptic impregnation to clean wood. Solutions for this purpose are selected on the basis on which the planned topcoat is made, since they must have good adhesion to each other. Water-based solutions are non-flammable and do not have a pronounced unpleasant odor. |
 | It should be noted that for processing it is best to choose a composition that has not only antiseptic properties, but also the qualities of a fire retardant. Such impregnation will protect the wood not only from biological damage and ultraviolet radiation, but also from rapid ignition, which will increase the fire-fighting characteristics of the facade of the building. |
 | If oil paint is chosen for painting a wooden surface, then a natural antiseptic - linseed oil, or solutions in which it is present as one of the main ingredients, is perfect for it. Such impregnations perfectly penetrate the structure of wood and perform the functions of protecting the material from external atmospheric influences and their consequences. |
 | This protective composition is applied with a wide brush, and it is very important that all surfaces without exception be treated with an impregnating composition and hard-to-reach places- internal corners, cracks and recesses. After processing the wood with impregnation, drying of each layer is carried out within two to three hours. Antiseptic can be applied in one or two layers. |
 | When the applied primer is absorbed and dries, the pile is removed, which will appear after the impregnation is applied. Wood villi are a kind of capillaries that will absorb and conduct moisture into the structure of the material, and a similar phenomenon will contribute to the peeling and peeling of paint and varnish coatings. Therefore, this stage of additional grinding is no less important than the primary processing of wood, and it must be carried out very carefully. |
 | The next step is the processing of the polished ends of the beam or log with a special protective mastic. This composition has the consistency of yogurt, it is applied with a wide brush and carefully smeared over the surface. The drying period of the mastic will take a few more hours (at least two or three). And only after making sure that the composition applied to the ends is completely dry, you can proceed to applying the finishing paintwork. |
 | Before applying paint or varnish, the composition must be mixed very carefully, as it must have a completely uniform consistency. Then, if the paint solution is purchased in a multi-liter package, it is recommended to pour it into a container convenient for subsequent work. |
 | Applying a finish coat on a water or oil basis is carried out with a brush in two or three layers with technological intervals in time for drying an aqueous solution - in two to three hours, and an oil one - 48 ÷ 72 hours. |
 | Several layers of paint will create a film of the required thickness, which will protect the wood from moisture absorption, ultraviolet radiation and other external influences. |
 | If the wood is processed and painted correctly, then it acquires pronounced water-repellent qualities. Therefore, water falling on the surface during rain will not linger, easily rolling down the wall. |
 | Well-prepared and covered with two or three layers, the surface will last at least five to six years, after which it will be necessary to revise the painted walls. If damage to the finishing and protective layer is found, then these areas must be cleaned, sanded and applied a couple of layers of the same paint and varnish composition. |
Renovation of old painted surfaces
Over time, even the highest quality painted surfaces still lose their attractiveness under the influence of external influences, so they have to be put in order, updating the decorative coating.
Their recommendations for the repair of previously painted wooden walls is represented by the world-famous Finnish company Tikkurila, whose products are ideal for use in the Russian climate, as in many regions it corresponds to the Finnish one.
To begin with, it is worth highlighting a few important points on the choice of materials and tools for cosmetic and restorative operations, and then consider the process of performing the work itself:
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation to be performed |
|---|---|
 | Quite often, consumers have a logical question about what composition are produced repair work on old surfaces? Tikkurila specialists recommend using the composition on the same basis as was used previously. |
 | For example, surfaces to be restored, which were previously coated with water-based acrylate paints, are very well renewed with PIKA-TEHO paint mortar, and a layer of old oil paint is tidied up with TEHO composition. |
 | This company also produces a universal solution "ULTRA", which is suitable for both oil and acrylate paints. |
 | If there is insufficient information to determine which paint was previously used to coat surfaces, testing should be carried out. To do this, moisten a soft cloth with alcohol and wipe the painted surface with it. If a trace remains on the fabric, then water-based acrylate paint was previously used. Oil paints do not react to alcohol, so the rag will remain clean. |
 | Oil paint becomes brittle under the influence of weather conditions, and its film cracks, acquiring a mesh structure. In addition, if you rub it with your fingers, they will leave a mark on them, as if the wall was covered with chalk. |
 | It is not recommended to use transparent antiseptics for wall treatment, as they transmit ultraviolet rays, which as a result leads to the destruction of the wood structure. |
 | The best option for coating would be a tinted antiseptic, as it more reliably protects the wood from the effects of sunlight. Moreover, over the years, a tree tends to darken completely or in spots, which becomes very noticeable through a transparent coating, so the house will not look so aesthetically pleasing. Properly prepared and painted surfaces will require major restoration only after 8-10 years. |
 | Painting wooden walls should be done with a brush, since when applying paint, it seems to be rubbed with a certain effort into the structure of the material. |
 | It is very important for painting wooden surfaces to choose a good quality brush with a wide working part, dense bristles, designed for applying one or another paint. It will capture the paint from the container well and evenly distribute it over the prepared wood surface. |
 | In this example, the process of updating the finish of the wooden walls of the house, previously covered with oil paint, is presented. By following all the recommendations for the repair, you can carry it out yourself and get a very high-quality coating. |
 | The first step is to revise the walls that need updating. If pockets of mold, fungus, moss are found on them, then they must be removed, otherwise over time they will destroy not only the old and new layers of paint, but also the wood itself. It should be noted that such signs of biological damage are most often detected on the north side of the building, where the sun never shines. |
 | To remove mold stains and other contaminants found on painted and exposed wood surfaces, Tikkurila has developed a special chloride cleaner called HOMEEN POISTO. |
 | The product is applied abundantly with a wide brush to the contaminated areas, and so that the solution, together with the dirt being washed off, flows down from their surfaces, so the treatment should begin from the top of the walls. Washing will not only remove the mold that has already formed, but also prevent the appearance of a new one. |
 | After the dirt has drained from the facade walls, it is impossible to wipe the surface - the residues must be washed off with clean water. This process will take place as efficiently as possible if the water is supplied under pressure, that is, flushing is best done with a directed stream of water using a hose. The cleaned wall should dry well at natural temperature, that is, you should not try to speed up the drying with the help of any heating devices, even if the air temperature is only +5 degrees. |
 | Some old painted walls may show raised layers of paint. Delamination can appear both on the north and south sides of the building, as it occurs for various reasons - this may be the influence external factors or poor quality of the process of preparing and painting surfaces during the previous finishing. If such damage to the paint layer is found, then they must be removed. |
 | Cleaning the walls of old paint layers is done with a scraper, a hard metal brush and a soft brush or dust brush. In the process of cleaning the paint, layers of softened wood fiber can also be found under it. They also need to be removed by brushing, as the paint will not last long on a soft surface. To remove these wood damages, it is best to use a metal brush attachment mounted on an electric drill or grinder. |
 | Cleaned to "clean" wood surfaces are additionally freed from dust with a soft brush or a wide brush. It is recommended to carry out this process very carefully, otherwise dust particles may remain on the surface, get under the layers of paint and are quite capable of then appearing through them. |
 | The next step is to treat the cleaned surfaces and areas where the paint has been partially removed with the VALTTI POHJUSTE composition, made on the basis of linseed oil, which is a natural antiseptic. |
 | By the way, the same agent is used not only as an antiseptic primer for temporary coating of wood before the main painting, but also as an effective thinner for oil paint from the same manufacturer. |
 | The antiseptic is applied with a brush. He is able to provide effective protection wood from fungus, ultraviolet and moisture, as the tree acquires water-repellent properties. New wood treated with this agent does not lose its natural color for a longer period of time, blue and other external negative manifestations do not appear on it. |
 | Further, the areas of the wall completely cleared of paint are covered with TEHO oil paint. If the old layer of paint that has remained on the adjacent sections of the walls is not too hard and thick, and also its color does not differ too much from the new coating, then in this case one top coat of paint will suffice. If necessary, two layers of paint can be applied with a time interval of two to three days, depending on humidity and air temperature. |
 | In the presented example, the restored walls of the object are completely covered with TEHO oil paint in two layers. The second one was applied two days after the first one. It is not necessary to apply paint in a thick layer, thereby striving to paint in one go, otherwise it will begin to crack and peel off faster. |
 | Here it is necessary to clarify that the atmospheric negative impacts oil paints are much more noticeable than acrylate ones, as they quickly lose their original color and their glossy qualities. Therefore, when purchasing facade oil paint, it is recommended to choose its light shades. Acrylic paints "PIKA-TEHO" retain their shade and glossy surface much longer, so they are often chosen to create an accent on the walls of a building. In this embodiment, the platbands around the windows are painted with this composition. |
 | The final illustration shows the result of the work performed on painting facade surfaces. wooden house oil formulations Tikkurila |
Well-known facade paint manufacturers
At the end of the article, I would like to say a few words about the most popular manufacturers of facade paints that supply the Russian market with their products that have been proven for decades. Among them are both domestic and foreign companies that have gained popularity due to the impeccable quality of their paints and varnishes.
From domestic manufacturers it is possible to single out such companies as Drevoplast, Olekolor, Rogneda, NEOMID, Senezh, Yaroslavl Paints and others.
Foreign companies whose logos and names are already familiar to many Russians have also firmly established themselves in the Russian construction market. Despite the higher cost of imported products, their demand is not reduced. Such manufacturers include Tikkurila (Finland), ISOMAT (Greece), ADLER (Austria), Alpina (Germany), BECKERS (Sweden), Dulux (Great Britain) and others.
Choosing for facade decoration paints and varnishes, it is best to pay attention to trusted manufacturers who value their reputation and give exact specifications their product, accompany it with clear technological instructions for proper application.
At the end of the publication - a fairly voluminous video in which the reader can learn a lot useful tips on the correct painting of facade walls, so that the finish lasts as long as possible
only briefly reduced interest in such traditional way finishes, such as painting facades. Today, more and more people prefer to paint the house outside, having previously prepared the base for applying the coloring layer. There's more to learn, what and how to paint a house is now quite available.
Facade paint for exterior is represented by a very wide range.
Painting a house on the outside is designed to perform at least two functions - to give the facade an attractive appearance and protect it from harmful effects. environment. And in both aspects, modern house facade paint provides a very wide range of possibilities.
Do-it-yourself painting the facade of a house is quite affordable even without serious professional training, of course, if it is not a multi-storey building that is supposed to be painted. So, for example, structural facade paint allows you to even give the facade coating an original and highly artistic look. It is only important to be guided by a number of practical recommendations on how to apply structural paint and follow the rules of use that are mandatory on the packaging. 
especially careful preparation surface in particular, requires facade textured paint– the walls must be covered with solid, preferably reinforced plaster and primed. And preference should be given to materials from the same manufacturer, since otherwise the primer may differ too much in composition and not match the paint. It is also important to first familiarize yourself with how to apply textured paint correctly.
Painting the facade with an airbrush (spray gun) has its own specifics. In addition to surface preparation, you need to know:
- what kind of paint can be applied to a particular facade with this generally practical tool
- paint consumption when using a spray gun
- Should the paint be thinned and by how much?
- at what temperature can you paint with a spray gun
- how to care for the spray gun, not allowing the paint to dry in the internal cavities of the tool
- how long does this paint dry under specific weather conditions
So how to paint the facade of the house with your own hands, how practical is it and where should you start?
First, you should decide how the painted house should look like, how important it is to protect the facade surfaces from negative factors. And, based on this, decide what color the paint is purchased, one or more colors. And also if special paint is required.
It can be just a weather-resistant facade paint, a siloxane facade paint with high moisture-proof qualities, a latex facade paint, which also has good weather-resistant and moisture-proof properties.
When choosing a paint for painting the facades of buildings, it is necessary to take into account what the operating conditions of the building are. For example, in regions with frosty winters, the frost resistance of the coating is especially important. It is necessary to take into account the purpose of the structure and the vapor permeability of the paint.
Latex paint, with all its undeniable advantages, will not be the best solution for painting a sauna or pool building.
The properties of the material from which the walls of the house are built must be taken into account when choosing facade paints that can be painted, and when preparing the surface for painting. So, for example, if, then either a vapor-permeable (most often water-soluble) paint should be used, or the plaster outer layer of the facade should be treated with a primer for painting. It is worth noting that good preparation surface also allows, if not to reduce the consumption of facade paint by 1m2, then at least to do without a significant excess.
As for the quantity, the packages usually indicate either the consumption of paint per 1 m2 of surface, or the approximate area for which one liter should be enough. Thus, in order to calculate the paint consumption for the entire facade, it is necessary to calculate the area to be painted as accurately as possible and, based on this, purchase paint by adding about 10% for possible unforeseen miscalculations, tool failures, etc.
The main difference between facade paints and interior paints is a higher resistance to external influences, low temperatures, high humidity, etc. The types of facade paints that exist today not only delight with their quality and variety, but also puzzle with the choice.
Here is an incomplete list, which includes only a few of the most relevant types of paint.
- Facade silicone paints. These include silane, organosilicon, siloxane solutions, which are characterized by high hydrophobic (water-repellent) properties. Facade paints based on silicone protect the material of the walls of the house not only from dampness, but also from the growth of microorganisms, as well as pollution.
- Elastic facade paint (rubber facade paint) is one of the modern developments in the field of finishing materials. It also has high hydrophobic properties, is resistant to abrasion and creates an attractive and dense layer that protects the surface of the walls. The disadvantages include extremely low vapor permeability. It should be applied to a clean, dry surface at moderate humidity and positive air temperature.
- Front frost-resistant paint on a cement basis. It has ideal anti-frost properties and vapor permeability, but does not differ in hydrophobicity and a variety of shades. Basically, these are low-key muted tones, gradually losing their intensity under the influence of the environment.
- Lime facade paints for outdoor use. All-weather and resistant to low-temperature influences, also not distinguished by brightness, but vapor-permeable and resistant to the appearance of fungus, mold, etc.
- – modern high-tech facade textured paint based on crushed natural cork, painted in various colors. Cork coating has certain heat-insulating properties, allows you to eliminate the so-called "cold bridges" that violate the heat-shielding properties of the building when sub-zero temperature on the street. The undoubted texture can be called a plus.
- Silicate paints are also a good answer to the question of how to paint the facade without difficulty and reliably. Chemical reaction securely binds them to the surface, and the characteristics of the material make it possible to counteract microorganisms and the effects of the external environment. The disadvantage, in fact, is one: difficulties in repainting. Their improved variety are polysilicon paints - a formula with the addition of silicone resins.
- Acrylic and acrylic-silicone paints based on organic acrylic resin. Positive properties - resistance to abrasion, good decorative qualities, a variety of bright colors, resistance to microorganisms. Negative - low vapor permeability.
In conclusion, you can add ...
Staining, like any facade coating, has its advantages and disadvantages. Moreover, taking into account how many types of special facade paint have appeared on today's market of building and finishing materials, even a non-professional can paint a moderately tall building. But since preparation for painting and painting itself is a rather laborious task that requires skills, tools, and sometimes special equipment, in many cases it is better to entrust the exterior decoration of the house to specialists who have necessary experience and equipment.
MDF manufacturing technology came to our country from America thirty years after the start industrial production ocean material. For external work, plates are not used for several reasons.
- High cost. There are many varieties of lumber that offer better performance at a lower cost.
- Insufficient physical strength. In terms of resistance to dynamic and static loads, the slab does not meet the requirements of developers. It's easy to damage, but hard to replace.
- Susceptibility to precipitation and temperature climatic conditions. There are options for moisture resistant boards, but they are not suitable for sheathing the outer surfaces of walls.
MDF board is used for the manufacture of furniture and interior wall cladding. It is these cases that we will talk about. Painting of MDF facades will be considered only for indoor areas. Let us dwell separately on painting the facades of MDF furniture.
There is no need to list specific brands, and it is impossible to do so. We will only talk about the varieties and brief characteristics paints, taking into account the method of their manufacture. The specific type must be selected taking into account the operating conditions of the MDF board, design preferences and financial capabilities. The range in price and quality is quite large, there are plenty to choose from.
| Paint type | Brief performance indicators |
|---|---|
| Water based | The most popular for painting large surfaces, have satisfactory performance characteristics, are completely safe for residents. They can be white and colored, for interior and exterior use. |
| Acrylic-silicone | Combine the benefits of acrylic and silicone paints, environmentally friendly product. It inhibits the reproduction of microflora and mosses, has high rates of resistance to mechanical stress. |
| Silicone | They repel water, are not afraid of moisture and exposure to high temperatures. Surfaces are easily cleaned of dust and dirt. Due to the high elasticity, the thermal expansion of MDF boards is easily compensated. |
| Polyvinyl acetate | One of the cheapest, recommended for indoor use with minimal risk of damage. During use, the recommendations of the manufacturers should be strictly followed, otherwise delaminations appear. |
| Oily | Traditional dyes, in addition to giving a beautiful appearance to surfaces, effectively protect them from moisture penetration. Primers are recommended to improve adhesion. |
| Alkyd | They have a perfectly smooth surface, are made on the basis of alkyd enamels. Plastic, resistant to abrasion. The disadvantage is that under the influence of direct sunlight they quickly fade. |
Before you buy paint, calculate the surface area and purchase materials with a margin. Consumption is specified by the manufacturer. If it is recommended to coat the surface with a primer before painting, do not simplify the work. Insufficient adhesion of the paint to the MDF board causes peeling. As a result - the need for expensive and time-consuming repairs.
Prices for different types of building paints for wood
Construction paint for wood
Types of varnishes for MDF
The technology of varnishing surfaces is much more complicated than working with paints, but the effect justifies all efforts. When choosing a particular varnish, it is necessary to take into account not only its properties and price, but also the place of application and operating conditions. The following types of varnishes can be used to cover MDF boards.
| Lacquer type | Composition and brief characteristics |
|---|---|
| Alcoholic | They are made from ethyl alcohol and artificial resins. For the price they belong to the low category, the drying time, depending on the conditions and the thickness of the layer, is 20–30 minutes. |
| Alkyd-carbamide | Two-component compositions, characterized by increased strength. Composed of carbamide and alkyd resins, a hardener must be added before use. Differ in the increased durability and excellent gloss. |
| Epoxy | Two-component, increased impact resistance, can have a long contact with water. Used to cover MDF tables. |
| Polyester | Resistant to aggressive chemical compounds, excellent resistance to elevated temperatures. Multi-component varnishes based on polyester resin. |
| Nitrocellulose | The composition contains resins, plasticizers and solvents. They have high water resistance, are polished, mechanical strength is average. |
| Acrylic urethane | Diluted with water, safe for health, have increased adhesion to surfaces. They can stay in conditions of high temperatures and humidity for a long time. |
| Polyurethane | Produced in one, two and three-component. The full hardening time is up to two weeks, they are characterized by increased wear resistance, have a high coefficient of adhesion with all lumber. |
| Acrylic | Odorless, non-toxic, diluted with water. Long-term contact with food products. In terms of performance, they are average. |
This information will help when choosing a brand of varnish, consider the maximum number of individual factors. Keep in mind that the appearance and service life of MDF facades largely depend on the quality of the composition.
Prices for various types of building varnishes for wood
Construction varnishes for wood
Technology for painting furniture facades from MDF
Pretty complex work that requires care, skill and patience. They are made in several stages, each of which significantly affects the final quality. Painting facades is much faster and better done with an airbrush, if it is not there, use high-quality brushes with a soft, durable bristle.
The room should be at least + 20 ° C, if there are a lot of individual elements of the MDF facade, then consider the places for their drying: racks, supports, etc. In most cases, after painting the plates, it is recommended to varnish them, it protects the surfaces from damage, hides small flaws, significantly improves the design look. Varnishing is a complex process that requires special tools and equipment. How MDF boards are varnished, we will describe below, but for now we will focus on painting.
By what criteria to choose paint, we have already told. For furniture facades, we can only add that the color of the paint should take into account the purpose of the furniture and the intensity of its operation.
Step 1. Surface preparation. For furniture facades, in addition to cleaning from dust and degreasing surfaces, sanding with emery No. 150-180 should be done.
It is long and difficult to work manually, and it is almost impossible to achieve the desired quality. We recommend using a professional electric reciprocating surface grinder or a cylindrical grinder.
The edges are ground with special four-sided sponges. It is desirable to work in a respirator. When grinding, do not stop the tool in one place, it must always be in motion. One track must be overlapped by the next by at least a third of the width. You do not need to press the sanding paper hard, if problem areas remain on the surface, then it is better to walk over the entire area again, and not make a recess in one place.
practical advice. Any grinding is accompanied by a large amount of fine dust. Take all measures so that it does not fall into adjacent rooms.
Step 2 Thoroughly clean surfaces from dust. You can’t do with simple brushes, you definitely need a powerful vacuum cleaner or compressor. Check the condition of the parts, if there are sharp edges, remove them. The IMF does not have great strength, sharp corners will certainly crumble.
Step 3. Coat surfaces with primer. Experienced craftsmen recommend using two types of primer, each twice. It is possible to prime with one primer without a break for drying, apply the first layer with horizontal movements of the spray gun, and the next immediately with vertical ones. Adjust the amount of primer, there should be no puddles on the surface. The first primer is used to prevent further absorption of materials, and the second to improve the adhesion coefficient between them. The second is applied only after the first primer has completely dried. Primer consumption per square meter is 80-100 grams.
Practical advice. It is very difficult for novice craftsmen to determine the flow rate by eye. To get the skill, we recommend taking a small piece of MDF, weighing it on an accurate scale. Coat with primer and immediately reweigh. Next, the area of the sample is calculated and the increase in weight is determined. With the help of elementary mathematical calculations, the primer consumption is determined. Little - add more. Now remember how the MDF surface looks like, covered with an optimal layer, and in the future prime with the same amount.
We strongly recommend that you work only with a pneumatic sprayer, you will never achieve "factory" quality with a brush. A professional will always notice traces of villi. Moreover, the sun's rays fall on the furniture at different angles, and such lighting enhances all the shortcomings of the facial coverings. Immediately treat the ends of the structures with a primer.
If you need to paint the reverse side of the plate, then proceed to work only after the front has dried. The drying time is indicated by the manufacturer, but adjustments must be made to take into account the actual indoor climate.
Step 4 Start grinding the soil, use special sponges. If they are not available, take washcloths for washing dishes, on the reverse side they have glued scotch brite. This is a special material used for fine sanding, which not only levels the coating, but also leaves micro-scratches on the surface, which improve the adhesion of the next coating. Movements are arbitrary in various directions. Circular movements of the sponge are not recommended, only reciprocating.
Step 5 Blow off or vacuum any dust that has formed on the surface. It is very convenient to work with an airbrush for another reason - it can cut off the paint supply and use it to clean surfaces from dust like a compressor.
Step 6. Proceed to applying the second type of primer. It is predominantly white in color and improves the performance of the following coatings. It also needs to be primed twice, followed by sanding. Blow dust off the MDF again. The algorithm of actions is no different from the technology described above.
Step 7 The second layer of primer must be carefully sanded with electric tools with fine sandpaper. Do not rush, large flaws will already become noticeable on the finished product. If there is no experience with such machines, then we strongly advise you to practice on unnecessary pieces of MDF. You will learn how to press the sandpaper to the surface with what force, how to move it quickly, how much MDF is removed in one pass, etc.
Step 8 Prepare your paint. The cooking technology is indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging.
Follow all recommendations. We have already mentioned that in order to work with an airbrush, the consistency must be more liquid. Immediately paint twice in transverse directions. You should already have hands-on experience in determining coating quality and paint quantity. Paint consumption ranges from 60–180 g.
After the coating has dried, you can start varnishing the surfaces. For furniture interiors, this is a mandatory step. The varnish not only serves as an additional and reliable protection, but also significantly improves the appearance of MDF products.
Lacquering MDF boards
We will describe how this is done below. But for quality, four main conditions must be observed:
- do not use cheap varnishes;
- strictly follow the technology;
- have necessary tools and equipment;
- have experience in complex painting work.
You will gain experience in performing such work and the ability to use tools during the priming and painting of products, it will already be much easier to work with varnish. You can determine the amount of varnish on the surface by eye, and the spray gun will “automatically” move in the right directions and at the optimal speed.
Step 1. According to the instructions, prepare the varnish, consumption is approximately 100-150 g per square meter.
Start varnishing from the ends of the MDF, due to this technology it is possible to minimize the number of areas with uneven thickness. Varnish that gets a little on the front surface does not pose a threat to the final quality.
After the first layer has dried, treat it with the finest abrasive. Professionals recommend using abrasive fiber No. 1200 according to the international classification. It can be purchased in specialized stores.
Step 2 Remove dust from the surface. Examine surfaces from various angles in a well-lit room. Everything is fine - cover the surface with a second layer of varnish. By the way, some facades are recommended to be varnished with a thickness of up to 0.5 mm, and for this you will have to increase the number of layers to five or more. At industrial enterprises, a different technology is used, where the varnish is immediately poured onto the surface of the required thickness, then the sheets are fed on a conveyor to the drying chambers. At home, this technology cannot be applied.
Step 3. The quality is satisfactory - proceed to fine grinding and polishing of the finishing layer. For fine sanding use Velvet Nos. 1500, 2000 and 3000. Gently but carefully work the surface with each number, removing dust periodically.
Practical advice. The quality of grinding will improve significantly if the surfaces are slightly moistened with water. The varnish will not overheat, during operation, microcracks do not form on the surface from the action of abrasive materials. Microcracks refract light rays, the surface becomes matte.
With each number, walk over the entire surface at least three to four times. The pressing force is somewhat less than when grinding the primer. Sanding takes a lot of time. If you are tired, it is better to move the work to the next day, and not stop completely.
Step 4 Polishing. For polishing, you need a special polishing paste and a perfectly even hard wheel. There are a lot of pasta, it's not a problem to choose. Review the recommendations and compare them with yours. individual conditions. Do not rush, constantly monitor the condition of the surfaces to the light.
If you have a fairly large amount of work, then we advise you to purchase special electric polishing machines. They not only speed up and facilitate the work, but also significantly improve the quality. Apply the polishing paste on the disc with a layer of about 1-2 mm, do not level it, during operation, the excess paste will independently be removed from under the disc and remain on the surface of the MDF. Further, as needed, the rotating disk itself captures the right amount of material.
How final stage you can use rubbing surfaces with compounds that provide a mirror shine.
Prices for the range of polishing machines
Polishing machine
Painting facades of outbuildings from MDF
We mentioned that this material is not recommended for outer skin. But there are cases of its use for temporary decoration of facade walls of small old ones. outbuildings. This is done by those owners whose financial condition does not allow them to purchase new materials; for cladding the facades of outbuildings, they use various used building materials, including MDF panels.
In order to increase the life of the structures, we recommend painting the outer surfaces. Do not skip the primer, the price of the material is available to all developers, it takes a little time to carry out the work, and the effect is obvious. Choose the type of primer according to the type of paint. On the packaging, the manufacturer indicates which primer to use. The primer is done twice, the brush or roller must move in perpendicular directions. If for some reason this cannot be achieved, then prime each layer at least at an angle. In addition to increasing adhesion, the primer reduces the consumption of expensive paints and prevents stains that appear from the base. You can paint with brushes different size and rollers. But rollers alone are not enough, the joints must be carefully painted with brushes.
Step 1. Measure the surface area to be painted. Buy paint taking into account the area and consumption, do not buy paint "back to back", always have a supply of material. You will work more calmly, and the surplus will always be useful for the production of cosmetic repairs.
Step 2 Thoroughly clean the MDF surface from dust, it is advisable to use a vacuum cleaner. Dust particles can be noticeable on the surface of the paint, it is impossible to remove them later. You will have to completely repaint the plate.
Step 3 Get your paint and tools ready. If the material has been stored in a warehouse for a long time, then the composition should be thoroughly mixed before use. When painting the surface with a spray gun, the paint will have to be slightly diluted with a solvent. Which one to choose is written on the package. For a guarantee, you can first pour a small amount of paint into the solvent. If the paint has curled, the solvent is unsuitable.
Step 4 Dip a roller or brush into the paint and start painting the surfaces.
Can be applied with a brush or rollers
Practical advice. Move the brush from top to bottom, so you will see streaks of excess paint and eliminate them in a timely manner. If you paint the opposite, you will have to constantly return to the area previously covered with paint to eliminate streaks. You can not notice them or forget to return - a problem will arise. If the drips dry out, then the removal will take a long time. In some cases, they will have to be cut with a blade and correct the surface of the coating.
Step 5. Paint the junctions with a brush, make sure that there are no traces of villi. In the implementation, you can find low-quality paint brushes, their pile is weak. To avoid leaving it on the surface, rub the brush vigorously against any clean surface before use. Insufficiently fixed hairs will come out and will not create problems during staining.
Step 6. Let the first coat dry, the time depends on the characteristics of the paint. Professional painters do not advise drying with open windows - dust gets into the room and sticks to the paint surface.
Step 7 If the quality of one layer is unsatisfactory, apply a second one. The technology is the same.
While painting surfaces, you can draw various patterns and ornaments. To do this, first draw the contour lines with a pencil. Each color must be pre-pasted with masking tape.
Prices for paint sprayers
Airbrush
How to remove old paintwork
Take off paintwork not so easy, a lot depends on its composition and your capabilities. Consider three ways to clean MDF surfaces.
- Mechanical. Coatings are removed wire brush or spatula. The work is very difficult and not always effective. In this way, only very old peeled coatings can be removed, and even then not from the entire surface. It is much easier to use various electric grinders with coarse abrasive material. We warn that there will be a lot of dust, take measures so that it does not fall into adjacent rooms. For respiratory protection, you need to use respirators or masks. Sandpaper will clog quickly, you will have to change it often.
- Thermal. The paint layer is heated with a building hair dryer (an ordinary one is not suitable!), The coating softens and is removed with a spatula much easier. The disadvantage is that not everyone has a building hair dryer, and buying it for small-scale work is not economically viable.
- Chemical. Various solvents are sold in specialized stores. Surfaces are wetted with them and left for several hours. Practical advice. To enhance the impact chemical drug after soaking, it is recommended to cover the area to be treated with plastic wrap, seal the edges with adhesive tape. Next, soft coatings are removed with a spatula. You need to work only on the street, some compounds are very aggressive. Respiratory protection is mandatory. If necessary, the procedure is repeated several times.
Regardless of the method of removing old coatings, the MDF surface must be sanded before a new painting, there will always be traces of a brush or spatula. In addition, not all areas of the coating can be removed manually.
Prices for different types of paint removers
Paint remover
To paint MDF wall cladding with rollers, buy them with a fine pile. Such rollers leave fewer traces, the paint lays down more evenly and has time to level out during the drying time.
The longer the paint dries, the more marriage it can hide on its own. Quick-drying materials do not provide such an advantage, the surface dries quickly and is poorly leveled.
Absolutely all MDF boards emit chemical compounds into the air. The notorious "environmental friendliness" depends only on their quantity. IN various countries sanitary control authorities establish their allowable norms. What is considered harmful for some is accepted as environmentally friendly and allowed for use by others. The amount of harmful compounds released can be minimized by deep impregnation. This is another reason not to abandon this operation while painting MDF.
If problem areas were found on the surface after the work was completed, then they can be hidden with overhead decorative elements. Now on sale big choice drawings on self-adhesive polyethylene film. With them you will not only hide your marriage, but give the surfaces a beautiful exclusive look.
Pile on MDF boards does not rise, only natural wood has this drawback. When choosing paints and varnishes, pay attention to this feature. By the way, coatings that do not raise the pile during drying are much more expensive than ordinary ones, do not overpay money for unnecessary properties.
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