Tomatoes in bags. Growing tomatoes in bags. the requirement for the package to be tight and not spread
This method is one of the best for getting strong and
healthy seedlings.
A very convenient way to grow tomato seedlings in bags,
using this method, tomatoes can be grown on the windowsill.
This method of growing tomatoes in a bag has a lot
advantages. You can take any packages used from under
cereals, pasta, dairy products, garbage bags. And
special bags for seedlings, they are strong enough and
voluminous, they include about 2 liters of earth. Can you imagine
how big seedlings can be grown in this quantity
earth.
What is the advantage of growing seedlings in this way?
Packages can be easily adjusted in height, poured when
the need for soil, in such packages also need to be done
drainage hole. These bags are very strong and dense and
will last you more than one year. If it is not possible to buy ready-made
packages, use any packages that are in the house.
the requirement for the package to be tight and not spread,
since seedlings will grow in it before planting in the ground, but preferably
so that at least 1 liter of land is placed in it, then the seedlings
really get strong and tall.
Now let's move on to the method itself.
We take the package and turn it up so that it becomes up to
10 centimeters. We pour the earth into the bag, it can be our own
garden soil, but it must first be steamed in the oven
at a temperature of 180 degrees. After the earth has cooled down,
you can add coconut substrate, perlite, vermiculite, also
at your discretion, you can add biohumus. But all these
additives must be made after the earth is steamed in the oven
and cool down. The looser and more fertile land you get,
all the better.
Then we will dive two to three week old seedlings into this package.
It is very convenient to dive seedlings with a teaspoon, pry
carefully, being careful not to damage the roots. Do it in a package
deepening, almost to the very bottom and plant seedlings in it.
When planting, immediately remove the cotyledon leaves and sprinkle
land to this level. This way of growing in a package is very
suitable for tall and large-fruited tomatoes. Although I
I tried planting undersized tomatoes, it also turns out great.
For better survival, water the seedling well, the better
root system, the easier the seedlings will take root.
Now consider further steps for growing such
seedlings. For two or three weeks, seedlings can not be touched at all, earthen
whom will be filled with seedlings, the roots will grow and
seedlings will grow up. When the seedlings grow up, you will see when
the barrel will stretch, unscrew the bag one turn and fill everything
space by earth. After another two to three weeks, again
unscrew the package one turn. Cut off the bottom leaves
Let's wait until the wound dries up and again add the earth. And so we will
repeat until the whole package is filled with earth and the seedlings are
big.
This method is very good for getting an early harvest. I think that
you will like this method very much and you will be satisfied with the result.
Also in the package you can grow seedlings without picking.
Take the package, fold it up to a size of about 5 centimeters and
fill it with earth to a height of 3 - 4 centimeters, this will be quite
enough. And we will sow tomato seeds there, lay out
them neatly on the surface of the earth 5 - 6 pieces and sprinkle with earth
layer up to one centimeter. From above, the soil still needs to be watered.
On the package, sign the variety of seeds and their quantity, so that in
further not to get confused and determine what germination of seeds.
Then put a plastic bag over the top to create
greenhouse effect and put the bag in a warm place. Before
seeds will germinate they can be kept in both light and dark
place. The main thing is that the place was warm 25 - 28 degrees.
Good tomato seeds germinate in 5-6 days. Once
the first light loops will appear; transfer the bag to a light
place. And the temperature must be reduced to 20 degrees, in order to
so that the seedlings do not stretch. When the seeds sprout, it will be possible
choose the strongest one. If the seedlings are all strong
they can be planted in other packages. If you have phyto
lamps, then at the beginning it is better to grow seedlings under them, and then
One of alternative ways growing tomatoes is planting in bags. This method has a number of features and advantages compared to traditional planting in the ground. It is recommended to resort to growing tomatoes in bags with limited space and sowing at home.
The spread of the method is due to a large number of advantages. Their list includes the following:
- bags can be placed in any convenient place: both in the apartment and on outdoors;
- when cold snaps occur, it is enough to transfer the plants to a warm room;
- in dense containers, moisture evaporates more slowly, which reduces the number of waterings;
- harmful insects do not penetrate the soil, which often infect the roots of plants when grown in beds;
- a small amount of soil warms up faster and cools more slowly, which favorably affects the development of roots.
The only drawback of the technology is that when using fragile bags, they can tear. For this reason, the choice of material must be given special attention.
Suitable varieties of tomatoes for growing in bags
It is more convenient to grow undersized varieties of tomatoes in bags, which, despite their compact size, bring a bountiful harvest.
These varieties include: Red Pearl, Cascade Red, Micron-NK. Tall varieties can also be grown using this technology, but it will be more difficult to care for them.
What you need to grow tomatoes
Before planting tomatoes, it is necessary to carry out a number of preparatory actions. To grow vegetables, you will need to choose the right bags, fertile soil, supports for fixing plants. As additional funds you can prepare fertilizers, disinfectants and covering material if you plan to grow in regions with a cool climate.
What bags are needed
For convenience, large sugar bags with a capacity of 30 to 50 kg should be used. Such containers are characterized by high strength and the ability to better pass air and moisture in comparison with polyethylene. Drainage holes in bags are very easy to make - cutting off the corners on both sides.
Suitable soil
Tomatoes grown in bags require a soil mixture with a neutral acidity index. In acidic or alkaline soil, plants will develop more slowly and worse, which will negatively affect fruiting. To make the soil looser, vermiculite granules or sawdust. Humus or rotted manure is poured into the base of the bag, which makes it possible not to use additional fertilizers until the first ovaries are formed. Experienced gardeners often use only compost as a filler.
supports
You can fix the plants with the help of rails, wire and ropes, which are pulled at a low height, and the shoots are tied with twine. For added security, you can use wooden stakes. Installing supports allows you to keep tomato bushes in upright position, which is especially important when grown in open space.
Soil preparation and technology for planting tomatoes in bags
The basis for obtaining a large harvest is proper preparation soil and compliance step by step technology landings. The landing process requires the following steps:
- Fill the bags with compost or humus and loose soil. Depending on the size of the container and the variety of vegetables, the substrate should fill the bag by ½ or ⅓ of the total volume.
- Turn the top of the bag over to the outside.
- Moisten the soil in which the seedlings are grown in advance, and carefully remove the seedlings, trying not to touch the roots.
- Make small indentations in the soil of each bag, water them and plant 2 seedlings.
The nuances of growing
Depending on where the bags will be placed, outdoors or in greenhouse conditions, there are certain nuances in caring for plants. Compliance with all the features allows you to avoid the death of plants and consistently get a crop.
In the open field
When growing tomatoes outdoors, special attention must be paid to air temperature. In case of a cold snap, you will need to unfold the free edge of the bag and cover the seedlings. If the temperature drops to a critical level, it is enough to temporarily transfer the containers to the room.
in greenhouses
When placing bags in greenhouse conditions, it is not recommended to over-moisten the soil, since excess moisture slowly leaves the container, resulting in rotting of the roots. As the seedlings grow, it is necessary to fill the bags with soil to cover the roots growing from the stem.
Agrotechnics and plant care
The process of caring for tomatoes after planting in bags is in many ways similar to agricultural technology when grown in the classical way. However, there are several features that affect the activity of development and fruiting of plants. Observing ground rules care and taking into account all the nuances, it will be possible to grow large and healthy fruits in due time.
Irrigation and fertilization
Watering tomatoes in bags is necessary as the soil dries. Before irrigation, you should make sure that not only the upper part, but a deeper layer has dried up. It is enough to check the condition of the soil at a depth of 4-5 cm. You should not use a large amount of water, since excess moisture often provokes the development infectious diseases and the spread of decay.
If plants are grown outdoors, watering should be done exclusively at the root.
The introduction of dressings into the soil contributes to the rapid and proper development of bushes, as well as intensive fruiting. In the case when the soil mixture consists of humus or compost, fertilizers begin to be applied only when the ovaries are formed. In other situations, top dressing is applied before planting seedlings, during the flowering period and 7-10 days before the expected fruiting.
Garter and bush shaping
Plant tying is required when growing tall varieties and when placing containers on the street. By fixing the bushes, it will be possible to prevent their damage due to the severity of the fruit and wind gusts. Also, fixation ensures the growth of the stem in vertical position without breaks.
The formation procedure includes the removal of excess foliage, deformed and old branches, and rotting parts. The formation of bushes has the following advantages:
- nutrients from the soil come only to healthy parts of plants;
- bushes acquire a decorative appearance;
- penetrates to the fruits large quantity natural lighting, which favorably affects the ripening time and taste characteristics.
Soil loosening
After each watering, loosen the soil to ensure better aeration. The access of oxygen is necessary for the roots of plants for active development. At the first stages, loosening is carried out to a depth of 3-5 cm, with further development bushes loosen a layer up to 12 cm deep.
pasynkovanie
A large number of varieties of tomatoes in the process of development grow side shoots. If stepchildren are left on the stem, they will begin to actively grow and form brushes with fruits. With a strong growth of the bushes, the fruits become smaller and lose their taste.
In order to remove shoots in a timely manner, it is necessary to regularly inspect the plants.
Stepchildren can be removed manually or using special equipment. Hands break off the shoots to the side. If a small stump remains on the stem after breaking, this will not affect the development of the plant. It is more convenient to cut the stepchildren with sharp garden shears, previously disinfected in a solution of potassium permanganate. Scissors should be treated after each cut plant, so as not to spread possible infections.
Some varieties of tomatoes form into several stems. Determinant varieties when grown in the middle lane are recommended to be formed in 3-4 stems, and in the southern area - not to pinch. On medium-sized determinant varieties, it is better to leave 2 stems.
Yield Features
The yield indicator when planting tomatoes in bags is not inferior traditional ways cultivation. When creating favorable environmental conditions and comprehensive care, the fruits grow large and juicy.
Common Mistakes
Beginning gardeners often make mistakes when planting plants in bags. The most common mistakes include the following:
- Absence in containers drainage holes through which excess moisture escapes.
- Use of dark fabric bags that do not leak sunlight, air and lead to drying of the roots. It is better to use translucent or light containers.
- Growing tomatoes without installing supports that help the plants bear the weight of the ripening fruit. Also fixation is necessary element care when growing tall varieties.
- Planting varieties that are not suitable for growing in separate containers. A certain part of the varieties is able to develop correctly and bear fruit only when they are in open space and unprotected ground.
Within the framework of the article, without discussing possible other methods of protecting tomatoes from diseases, I will only talk about my environmentally friendly and working method. I must say right away that this method for greenhouse cultivation and not for open ground.
Greenhouse, fruit change and how tomatoes become infected
the realities of our modern vegetable garden almost all of them had their tomatoes “driven” into the greenhouse. And although in part I always plant bushes of small-fruited tomatoes of ultra-early varieties somewhere in open ground in order to get “full-fledged” ground tomatoes (we know that glass or polycarbonate isolate some part of the spectrum sun rays, and at least a little, but disrupt photosynthesis), still the main tomato impact force is in a greenhouse. In it - late-ripening, tall, large-fruited varieties(and hybrids) of tomatoes, which outside simply will not take place in the Middle lane due to an elementary lack of heat.
The modern polycarbonate greenhouse, one might say, has revolutionized the tomato business. It not only keeps heat better due to the layer of air in polycarbonate, it is quickly assembled and relatively inexpensive, and therefore is available to gardeners as much as 2-3 copies. What does it give? Fertility Opportunity!
When tomatoes are grown in a row from year to year in the same greenhouse, then tomato diseases are guaranteed, there is nothing to even discuss, no method will help. It is possible to make an ideal fruiting plant with 3 small greenhouses(4m x 3m each).
Alternation is best done according to the scheme:
- Nightshade (tomatoes, eggplant, peppers)
- Pumpkin (melons with watermelons)
- Greens (very different, in a young form, continuous renewal of crops throughout the season, including early radish and carrots, from April to November).
Today it real opportunity for each owner of the site, it is only necessary to appreciate the unique dignity of such a goal and then achieve it.
In short, I make an introductory conclusion, before presenting the method itself:
Today, growing tall bushes of tomatoes with huge fruits in a greenhouse is no longer a question, everyone will be able to do this, but to make sure that they are not amazed by late blight, this is worthy of attention.
It has always been "one of my topics".
Before that, I had dealt with the problem of tomato diseases and, in particular, late blight, for many years, deciding on principle to find a way to cope with it ironically, and environmentally friendly. I read everything about her, tried everything, conducted countless different new tests, looked for any possible ways, techniques, means of protection.
The result was “a method of growing tomatoes in bags”, since then there has been no phytophthora.
If you want - agree, if you want - no (I won't be surprised!), And I justify it this way, based on my experience and checks. IN natural environment wild tomato - in the conditions of the mountainous soils of the Andes, there are no earthworms, but in our country they are poisoned by the mucus of earthworms. Yes, as amazing as it sounds!
In the case of this particular crop, severe poisoning, when fatty worms gather under the bush due to watering in August, weakens the plant, and at some point it “breaks” and lends itself to phyta.
A small number of worms (single medium-sized worms) does not pose a danger, but still their presence is undesirable, they do not need to be condoned. Preparing the ground for bags, I try to choose better bags, always sealed from below.
Practice has shown that if you do not let "our favorites of the public" (I mean, respect for earthworms among supporters organic farming) to the roots of tomatoes, then they demonstrate miracles of endurance, contrary to the rules of agricultural technology that have developed in our country.
Judge for yourself: for the sake of verification, at first I abundantly watered all adults, with green ovaries, plants in the greenhouse cold water straight from the hose, then he battened down the greenhouse for the whole night, so that in the morning there was fog there, and water dripped from the ceiling - and so, gentlemen, A WHOLE MONTH - there was no late blight. As there was no other disease.
Tomato is tropical plant, he is not afraid of dampness, on the contrary, he loves it.
When you find some strong trump card, this allows you to expand the scope of the usual rules of agricultural technology for each given crop. Same for tomatoes. Let's say I have long switched to growing 3-month-old seedlings instead of the generally accepted 2-month-old.
I think that for Middle lane 3-month-old seedlings are much more appropriate (tomatoes do not suffer from seedling overgrowth, unlike cucumbers and other pumpkins, for which 1 month is already the limit beyond which it is better not to go over in overexposure of seedlings at home). However, everything is in order.
Growing tomatoes in bags without diseases
Any method, perhaps, hone, improve, bring to mind. So I improved the "method in bags" from all sides for several years. I will briefly outline all of his current technology from the very sowing of seeds, everything that can affect success.
The soil
In fact, it is better to start long before sowing seeds: in the fall.
It would be good to freeze the soil in the bags, this will definitely kill all the earthworms, and for this it is more correct to fill the bags with fresh fertile soil in the fall and then put them right in the greenhouse in their permanent place. In the spring they brought a bush of seedlings and put it right in the pot on top of the bag: the roots through the drainage holes will soon grapple with its soil. The larger the containers for seedlings and the drainage holes in them, the better, of course (modern plastic garden containers black, in which seedlings are sold in fruit nurseries, is an example of drainage outlets for roots).
If you fill the bags in the spring, you will first have to sort through each bucket with your fingers, but then loosen the soil mixture well.
Bags
Of all the tried boxes, materials and bag options, up to white grocery bags from the supermarket, ordinary black garbage bags were recognized as the most practical (in terms of convenience, cost and efficiency), they are sold in rolls in the household departments of supermarkets, the so-called increased strength, volume 90-120 liters. Use a single or double bag - it's up to you.
If you have now hastily come up with some other option, then most likely I have experienced it, so do not immediately discard the "garbage" ... If only because they are airtight at the bottom and will save you irrigation water. From wicker bags, for example, water flows out and you have to repeatedly water the lump until it is completely soaked. And so - he poured the bucket at a time and is calm.
By the way, not everyone knows that an adult tomato bush pumps through itself an average of 3-6 liters of water per day, without powerful irrigation it will not pour the full mass of the crop.
By the way: a black garbage bag gives a squat lump, while higher "standing" structures hide the height of plants, they are less profitable in a greenhouse. The density of plants and the number of bushes in the greenhouse is also up to you.
Soil mixture: quantity and composition
The volume of soil in the bag can be small, 3-4 buckets, the harvest will be. Although it is clear that for the full development large bush, up to the ceiling, it is more reliable to give filling from 10 buckets. And the harvests prove it.
The composition of the soil mixture for tomatoes can be very different, if only in the aggregate there were all necessary elements nutrition. In other words, highly nutritious soil is needed. The system is closed.
Plant fattening in a greenhouse can not be particularly afraid and nitrogen can not be saved. Relatively speaking, for 6-8 buckets of clay garden soil, you can safely give a bucket of manure humus (compost), and even there a glass of ash or its substitutes, say, a mixture of phosphorite and dolomite flour, and even then shed the whole lump once with a solution of humates of the full composition with microelements.
Although, of course, you can take the soil and simpler. Simply, it would be a shame if the business does not burn out due to a lack of some elemental sulfur or magnesium in the midst of fruiting plants. And the source of sulfur is any organic matter, the source of magnesium is dolomite ... Everything should be!
Varieties of tomatoes and sowing for seedlings
It is better to take the largest-fruited, mid-ripening and late-ripening varieties suitable for your region in the greenhouse - it is well known that you have specimens of 1-1.5 kg hanging there. The nuance is such that it is desirable over time to select varieties or, whoever likes it, hybrids that have shown themselves best in bags: mainly to taste. This is how all varieties are obtained along the shaft, but in terms of the quality of the fruits, the difference is noticeable.
And the second nuance is that 2-3 plants should be added to tall tomato varieties (2-3 separate bags smaller size) ultra-early varieties for open ground, for the sake of earlier production of red tomatoes, already from the end of June (for example, the variety Far North shows himself well).
Sowing seeds for 3-month-old seedlings in late January - early February. Lighting is required until 11-12-hour daylight hours, somewhere before March. Along the way, it is very desirable to harden the seedlings for cold (near zero temperatures), for drought (do not water until the leaves are wilted), for overflow, for overheating in the sun under a cap from a transparent bag. They should already “know” everything before moving into the greenhouse. To do this, it is desirable to sometimes transfer them there during the daytime. solar time in March-April, sometimes leaving all night (no frost).
Planting seedlings in a greenhouse
The timing of the final transfer of seedlings to the greenhouse, depending on the region of the Middle Strip, is in late April - early May. She is not afraid of light frosts in a polycarbonate greenhouse, unless there is a strong wind at the same time (otherwise, the seedlings have to be completely evacuated to the house).
The early final transfer of seedlings justifies itself in comparison with the "reinsurers" who are waiting for stable warm weather. Seedlings, we, as experienced people, always grow with a numerical reserve, precisely for the sake of freedom in hardening. Yes, and at the time of hardening, and then already in the greenhouse, there is always a risk of running into severe frosts, such that the bushes “sag”, but the hardened plants usually do not die, most recover, and the single fallen ones were just weaklings and in a timely manner weeded out. This is normal growing, producing very hardy plants. However, the “method in bags” will take place completely and without any hardening at all.
Care: shaping, tying and watering
Caring for planted tomatoes in bags in May, June, July and August is quite simple. Their roots are always warm, and even bask in the sun, unlike the "soilers", so they are actively developing.
Stepchildren often have to be removed, forming bushes into two main stems (in fact, they can be formed in any way, and in 1 or 3-4 stems, just to control the garter and prevent the thickening of the dams like yeast on plants).
Without frequent garters, the stems will fall and break under the weight of the ovaries. A powerful harvest must be vigorously defended...
The experience with the rationing of the ovaries, when 2-3 largest brushes are left, did not justify itself. Somehow it turns out that with the “bag method”, the more ovaries, the higher the yield.
Watering is the first thing in current care.
Best of all, watering every 2 days, about a bucket per nose, shows itself.
Of course, when in a greenhouse or next to it stands cast iron bath or a barrel for heating water in the sun, then in the evening we only successfully water warm water. In fact, in the garden (if there is more than one greenhouse), there is not enough such water all the time, and you have to water it directly from the hose.
Even in care, it is important to avoid overheating of plants during the day in the sun, opening all doors and vents wide open. The absence of side holes (they are only at the ends) is probably the only serious drawback polycarbonate greenhouses. That's why I choose only short greenhouses, because in a long greenhouse in the "calm" air is not pumped through the middle, a hot plug forms there.
The "pockets" of the corners of the greenhouse are also vulnerable, there, too, signs of overheating of plants are most often observed: a characteristic narrowing and bending of leaf plates. Hardening seedlings of seedlings with "heat", as described above, helps here.
Results
The method turned out to be so reliable that all the fruits on the bushes ripen, even the already completely residual and small ones, drawing the last reserves from the once powerful stems. Fresh, perfectly clean red fruits hang until November, sometimes on already dry plants. It is very convenient for current consumption.
Summarizing.
positive sides this method has much more than negative ones. The method was developed, among other things, for growing tomatoes in just one greenhouse, it made it possible to avoid soil fatigue during the permanent cultivation of tomatoes in the same place. It was understood that every year they would have to fill the bags with fresh earth rolled in a wheelbarrow or brought in buckets, and send the used earth to be healed for compost. In the system of 3 greenhouses, everything is simpler: you can dump the earth right here and not carry it in buckets.
When it is usually objected to me that this method is too laborious, then I dare to disagree. For me personally, “too laborious” is when you cherished seedlings all spring, then took care of the greenhouse all summer, spent a lot of time, effort, water and fertilizer, and then all this went down the drain in one night due to phytophthora, including the self-sufficiency of the greenhouse did not take place - this is really “too expensive”.
Series "Secrets of the Garden and the Garden with Pavel Trannua"
The essence of the method is that planting tomato seedlings in bags, perhaps expect high yield . To implement this idea, you need suitable bags, a substrate for filling, a place where they can be placed, garter supports and healthy seedlings. This method of growing tomatoes is not too different from.
IN this case we are talking about how to grow tomatoes in bags, when seedlings need to be planted not in open ground in vegetable gardens, but in bags with soil, which in large assortment sold in specialized stores.
Growing tomatoes in bags, you need to carry out standard procedures: watering, top dressing, garter, loosening, pinching. Tomatoes, unlike many vegetables, do well when grown in bags. It is very easy to transplant plants in this way: tomatoes in bags can be easily rearranged from one place to another without worrying that the roots or stems will be damaged.
Advantages and disadvantages
Among the advantages of this landing method are the following:
The disadvantages of this method of growing tomatoes include:
- When moving bags of tomatoes may tear, given the lower openings. But they are necessary to prevent rotting of rhizomes in tomatoes and stagnation of water in the soil.
- The color of the bags should be chosen light, because dark shades attract heat, and because of this, the tomatoes will grow poorly and overheat greatly, and it will also be necessary to increase the amount of water for irrigation several times.
- It is possible to overdo it with watering. If you do not watch it in time, then the tomatoes will die.
- The need to use additional materials unlike the conventional method of planting crops.
- You need to think in advance about the preparation and time for planting and caring for tomatoes.
- It will take a very frequent watering. It is necessary to consider the location of the bags on the site so that the well or column is nearby.
Water should be poured directly into the drainage column, otherwise from an excess of moisture root system plants can rot.
Preparation
Pouches
Large sugar bags can be used to grow tomatoes this way.(by 30 or more kilograms), since they are more durable, well pass air and water than similar polyethylene ones.
In this case, it is necessary to cut the corners to form special drainage holes. But this does not interfere with planting tomatoes to take and plastic bags.
When preparing materials for planting tomatoes pay attention to the color of the bags: it is better that they are light colors, but if there are none, then dark bags should be wrapped with light (white) material so that their rhizomes do not overheat. And the material from which the bags are made is not so important; they can be made of polyethylene, or you can take bags that previously contained sugar.
seed
It is possible to buy seeds in a specialized store or prepare them first with your own hands. Before planting tomatoes in the soil, you need to prepare the seeds 62-67 days before that - there should be 55-60 days + a week for germination (details on how to grow tomato seedlings Chinese way, read, and from you will learn about the no-dive method of sowing seeds).
Seeds must first be calibrated in a 3% solution table salt (3 g per 100 ml of water). Within a few minutes, empty seeds will float, while good ones will sink to the bottom. Then the seeds must be disinfected in a solution of potassium permanganate or a solution of hydrogen peroxide for thirty minutes. Next, you need to harden the seeds in the refrigerator for two days at a temperature of + 1 ° C.
If you use purchased seeds, then you need to follow the expiration date. Seedlings will sprout much better if the seeds are with the shortest shelf life.
Rest of the material
The soil: In order to increase the yield of tomatoes, it is best to prepare special soil before planting them. Pre-prepared should not be strongly alkaline or acidic, it is better to make it neutral. To obtain the effect of friability, vermiculite, sawdust and sand should be added to the ground.
In order not to feed the tomatoes in the future before the ovaries appear, you need to fill the bags half with humus, and fill the second part with ordinary earth. Compost can also act as a filler.
Supports for tying tomatoes: You can tie tomatoes with a rope, wire or rail, which should be pulled over the bags, to which the bushes will be tied with twine. Wooden supports can also be inserted into the bags.
Detailed instructions: step by step
In a container of sugar
It is best to use white sugar bags for planting tomatoes in this way, as they have a strong density compared to polyethylene. Then you need to take a spatula and pour two buckets of compost soil into the bag.
In the case of using sugar bags, then you don’t have to worry about the holes. According to a special production technology, they have already been done in advance. Thanks to white color plants will not overheat and rhizomes will develop faster.
First, growing tall variety tomatoes means filling the third part of the volume with soil. Secondly, if there is a landing undersized variety, then the bag is filled exactly half. Then the bags must be placed tightly to each other in the greenhouse, and the upper part of the bag should be turned out.
Landing goes like this:
- The nutrient mixture should be poured into a bag.
- From the container, two or three plants should be transplanted into each bag, depending on their height.
- Tomato rhizomes should be sprinkled with earth on top, the neck should be at ground level.
- The soil must be carefully compacted.
- Then the planted seedlings should be watered.
- Next, you need to move the bags of tomatoes to the greenhouse. If the cold has passed, then they can be taken out into the garden.
In polyethylene bags
- In the case of using a plastic bag for planting tomatoes, cut holes for seedlings, while cutting off the top of the bag along the cut line for this.
Such bags are best designed for planting three tomato seedlings in one bag.
- Next, you need to make drainage holes on the sides of the bag.
- Then you need to make small holes in the soil for planting seedlings. The dimensions of such holes should correspond to the dimensions of the container from which the plant will be planted.
- The seedling should be carefully removed and transplanted into the dug hole.
- As a support, you can take small pegs or pull a rope.
- At the end of planting, tomatoes must be plentifully irrigated.
How to care for tomato seeds before and after planting?
Before planting tomatoes in bags, it is necessary to carry out high-quality disinfection of seeds. Seeds should be soaked in advance in hydrogen peroxide or in a solution of potassium permanganate. In the case of buying seeds, the need for this procedure is automatically eliminated. Before planting, the seeds should be germinated in advance: you need to put them in warm water and wrap in a damp cloth for a few days before germination.
Also, they must be dried to flowability. It is necessary to make special grooves at a distance of several centimeters from each other with the help of a pen, water well and sow the seeds at intervals of about three centimeters. Then you should cover the container with a transparent film until germination, periodically moistening and ventilating.
What result should be expected?
When growing tomatoes in bags, the fruits ripen much earlier than when growing traditional method(approximately two to three weeks ahead of schedule). Tomatoes grown in bags significantly outnumber those plants that grow in bags on each bush. open field.
Tomatoes with this method are much juicier, larger (you can learn about the difficulties and features of growing large tomatoes). Their weight can even reach one kilogram. Such fruits do not crack, and their pulp is much denser and more fleshy than the fruits of tomatoes growing in the beds.
Common Mistakes
- Excessive watering. It is not necessary to fill the soil too much, since the outflow of excess moisture from the bag is quite slow, and the roots may rot.
- Insufficient disinfection before next landing tomatoes.
- After harvesting, the earth can be thrown into compost pit, and save the bags, as they can be used more than once. But before the next planting, you must definitely treat the bags with a disinfectant, especially if the tomatoes are sick.
- Insufficient care of plants with a decrease in temperature. When it gets cold, you need to unfold the upper free edge of the bag and cover the seedlings; for a while, you can drag the bags to a more insulated room.
- Insufficient disinfection. First of all, it is necessary to carry out disinfection of seeds, soil and containers for growing tomatoes to prevent the occurrence of diseases, and not to treat plants for diseases.
Exactly thanks to planting tomatoes in bags, it is easy to protect them from frost in the spring, to create favorable conditions for the development of plants and obtaining a good harvest.
Many gardeners are constantly trying to find all sorts of ways to increase the yield of grown products and simplify the planting process itself. We advise you to look at our materials about other non-standard methods growing tomatoes:,.
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One unusual method of tomato cultivation is growing plants in bags, a method sometimes referred to as "container cultivation". The use of such agricultural technology allows you to accelerate the entry of crops into fruiting, which means you can get a crop much earlier. In addition, planting tomatoes in bags reduces the cost of heating the greenhouse, respectively, this method is cost-effective.
How to grow tomatoes in bags in film greenhouses
The specificity of the method of growing tomatoes in bags is the use of 80-85-day-old seedlings for planting in special containers with a transforming bottom, which makes it possible to increase productivity. These containers are polyethylene bags measuring 320 x 250 mm with a substrate height of 240 mm.
The peculiarity lies in the fact that the film is welded on the sides, and stitched from the bottom with a thread so that it rots in 2-3 weeks and the roots penetrate the soil.
In order to grow tomatoes in bags as productive as possible, seedlings are cultivated, as usual, in 10-cm pots up to 60 days, and then transplanted into containers and placed in the seedling compartment, 16-20 pieces per 1 m2 up to 80-85- day old. Tomatoes in bags are placed in a permanent place in spring film greenhouses, without deepening into the soil, according to a scheme of 70 x 30 cm. Tomatoes in bags are watered more often than in soil crops, due to more fast drying soil. Due to the better water-physical properties of the substrate in the container, more favorable temperature regime, especially in greenhouses without soil heating, the development of plants is accelerated, a more productive type of plants is formed due to the increased productivity of the leaves. Thus, the economic productivity of photosynthesis, i.e., the ratio of the mass of fruits to the mass of leaves, at the beginning of fruiting in plants in container culture was 2.5 times higher than in ordinary culture.
As a result, it doubles early harvest and 30% overall - in comparison with in the usual way cultivation and simultaneous planting of seedlings. In this case, we have an example of how limiting the growth of the root system contributes to the formation of a productive plant type. But very often there is fattening of plants, when the growth of leaves is to the detriment of fruit formation.
This can be avoided by optimizing nitrogen nutrition and limiting root growth through container culture, reducing soil moisture or increasing salt concentration in the root zone, as is done abroad.
Planting bags of 80-85-day-old seedlings 20-25 days later than a conventional crop of 60-day-old seedlings gives the same agrotechnical efficiency, but saves heat at the most cold period cultivation.
