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Floor in a private bath. How to make the floors in the bath: advice from the masters. Video: Options for creating high-quality floors in the bath

Steam room - the main branch of the bath, has special requirements. The room should perfectly retain heat, not be afraid of dampness and high temperature. Currently, there are a large number of building materials and technologies that allow developers to choose an acceptable option for themselves, taking into account personal preferences and financial capabilities. But not only does this affect optimal choice floor in the steam room.

As mentioned above, during the selection, the developer takes into account the desires and possibilities. But professional builders do not recommend focusing only on these factors, there are several more very important points.

Foundation type

Three types of foundations are used for baths: screw or concrete pile, columnar and shallow tape.

1. Concrete or metal pile foundations it is recommended to use on sloping construction sites and waterlogged unstable soils. A feature of pile structures is a large open space between the floor and the ground. This situation has both positive and negative sides. The presence of a distance between the floor and the ground improves the ventilation of the underground space. This has a positive effect on the humidity regime, wooden structures dry quickly, thereby increasing the operating time of the floor in the steam room. Another plus is that in most cases it is not necessary to make special water receivers, it is poured onto the ground, the main part is immediately absorbed, a small amount can flow outside the perimeter of the bath. The negative side - the floors are quickly cooled, the surface is cold, especially in winter. It is necessary to take special construction measures to increase the comfort of staying in the steam room.

   

   

2. columnar. The cheapest options for foundations for a bath. Most often, the underground space is open. The positive and negative sides are the same as those of the columnar ones.

   

3. Shallow-depth tape. Stronger constructions withstand significant forces. They make it possible to build large baths with various premises. The disadvantages include the complexity of arranging the floors in the steam room. The fact is that the vents provided in the tape cannot provide the same effective ventilation as a completely open space. This worsens the operating conditions of the floors in the steam room; in order to prevent the appearance of negative processes, it is necessary to thoroughly impregnate all wooden elements with antiseptics. Any impregnation is a chemical composition that adversely affects living organisms. From a biological point of view, a person is an ordinary living organism, and also reacts negatively to aggressive compounds. But these are not all problems. In such baths under steam rooms, you should definitely do sewer systems for water drainage. Additional work complicates and increases the cost of the floors in the steam room, requires highly qualified specialists.

The above features various types foundations must be taken into account when choosing the option of floors in the steam room, regardless of the wishes of the developers.

Prices for screw piles

screw pile

Soil type

Only two types of soils influence the technology of building floors in a steam room.

1. clayey do not absorb moisture, all water for a long period of time is on their surface. As a result, the humidity in the underground space is high, and the processes of wood decay are accelerated. Under steam rooms on such soils, it is necessary to install a water drainage system.
2. sandy soils quickly absorb moisture and can take a large amount of it. Such physical parameters make it possible to simplify the installation of floors under the steam room and washing room as much as possible.

The climatic zone of the bath

Everything is simple here - the colder the climate, the warmer the floors in the steam room should be. It is strongly not recommended to install cement floors in the northern regions.

The specified information should be taken into account when choosing a floor option in the bath, but it is not enough to make an informed final decision. You need to learn more about the features of the floors, their pros and cons.

Types of floors in the steam room

This parameter also influences decision-making, it should be kept in mind and compared with the type of foundations, the physical characteristics of the soils and the climatic zones of the location of the building.

Table. Types of floors in the steam room.

Types of floors in the steam room	Short description architectural features and performance
	The simplest and cheapest design, all the old baths had such floors in the steam rooms. Between the boards, gaps about 5 mm wide are left, the slope of the flooring is not required. Water flows to the ground and soaks into it. There is no need to be afraid that streams will appear near the bathhouse, they do not wash in the steam room, but take a steam bath. Accordingly, little water is consumed. The disadvantage of leaky floors is the low surface temperature. But this problem is not critical for several reasons. Firstly, the legs do not stay on such a floor for a long time, you just need to reach the shelf installed on a hill. Secondly, a short stay on cold surface does not cause a cold, but hardens the body, improves the functioning of the immune system. Thirdly, if the soles of the feet are very sensitive to low temperatures, then you can make wooden lattices and walk on them.
	The boards are tightly pulled together with social devices, the side surfaces can be flat or have a tenon / groove connection. Such floors necessarily have a slope to one side and a drain. The slope is small, about a centimeter running meter. The drain is given underground with a further tap outside the perimeter of the steam room. These are more complex floor designs in the steam room, but in their own way performance characteristics outperform the leaking ones.
	Used only in exclusive expensive baths. Foundation - cement-sand mixture or concrete, no underground. Be sure to arrange a separate drain, the finish coat is ceramic tiles or porcelain stoneware. Professional builders strongly do not recommend installing such floors in a steam room with a high air temperature. The fact is that the tile has a high thermal conductivity, the hot floor quickly gives off heat, it can be too hot for the feet. In terms of cost and complexity of manufacturing, they occupy a leading position among all options for floors in a steam room.

For traditional wooden baths, it is better to do. Larch is considered the best breed, it is not afraid of moisture, in direct contact with water, strength increases. The disadvantage of larch is its high cost. In this regard, most developers are advised to make floors in the steam room from conifers wood.

Step-by-step instructions for making a floor in a steam room

For example, we will consider a rather complex and expensive floor in a steam room - non-leaking with insulation. This option is used in cases where there are small children in the family, for them it is necessary to create increased comfort of staying indoors.

Initial data. The steam room is being renovated, the floor is being changed due to the presence of cracks that created inconvenience for small children. Production material - coniferous boards, the front surface will be covered with a special resistant varnish. Durable waterproof extruded polystyrene foam is used as a heater. Work on laying the floor in the steam room is done in two stages. At the first stage, the old coating is dismantled, a revision of the condition of the wooden elements is made and Maintenance. At the second stage, a new floor is laid in the steam room.

Dismantling

Step 1. Remove skirting boards around the perimeter of the room. Undermine them carefully to protect the surfaces of the boards from mechanical damage use wooden linings.

Step 2 Unscrew the screws securing the floorboards.

Practical advice. Never use black self-tapping screws, they are very afraid of moisture and quickly oxidize. Oxidized hats not only worsen appearance the floor of the steam room, such hardware is then very difficult to unscrew. Most often, the boards have to be torn off, and after that they remain big holes. Problem areas must be patched up, it is long and difficult. In addition, seal marks will always be visible.

Step 3 Inspect floor structures for mold and rot, if problems are identified, they must be eliminated.

Step 4 Remove the sex lags. Damaged areas must be removed from the surface of the lumber, for this you can use an electric planer. It is recommended to wipe the surface of the walls under the skirting boards with any antiseptic. The lags must be impregnated with the same composition.

At this preparatory work is completed, you can proceed to the flooring of the new floor of the steam room.

Important. During the construction of the bath, be sure to make effective ventilation of the premises. After taking water procedures, the steam room and washing room should be dried as soon as possible, this cannot be achieved only by opening the doors. High humidity and high temperature are the main enemies of lumber. No amount of impregnation will prevent boards from rotting if they are constantly wet and warm.

New flooring in the steam room

The floor will be made with a slope, draining the water into the tray. All lumber should be impregnated. As long-term practice shows, the best antiseptic is used car oil. If a specific smell is alarming, then the logs can be held outside for several days; in sunny, warm weather, it will quickly disappear. In addition, in our version, the floor of the steam room is solid, which is an additional guarantee of the absence of unpleasant odors while taking procedures.

Step 1. Determine the level of the floor and the angle of the boards. Tilt direction from front door to the opposite wall of the steam room. You can make marks using an elementary water level or using a modern laser device. The second option allows you to make markup faster, but not every amateur has such professional tools at home.

The upper plane of the plinth should be about five millimeters below the threshold, taking into account its width, mark the lines for the location of the floor boards. On the opposite side, do the same operations, do not forget about the slope.

Step 2 Fasten the lags according to the marks. It is much easier to fix them with special perforated metal corners. They hold up great big weight and provide an opportunity, if necessary, to correct the mistakes made. The corners are fixed to the side and bottom surfaces of the log, due to this, the reliability of the structure increases.

Perforated corners have many holes, but this does not mean that a self-tapping screw must be screwed into each. On one side, no more than three pieces are required. Extra holes are provided so that you can choose the optimal place for fixing the screws. There are knots and cracks on the sawn timber; hardware is not installed here.

Practical advice. The surface of the log is strictly horizontal, and the floorboards are at an angle. In this regard, they do not come into contact with the entire surface of the supports. Don't worry, it's much better for a couple. The fact is that the floor does not have large loads, the boards will not sag. And the presence of a small gap between them and the lags accelerates the drying process of lumber, which has a positive effect on the duration of operation.

The lags are much easier and faster to set up on the rope. To do this, fix the first and last exactly on the marks, pull the rope between them and use it as a template for attaching all the others.

Step 3 Proceed with the installation of the water tray. Some models must first be adapted for a steam room. To do this, a grinder with a disk for metal cuts off extra planes that prevent it from being securely fixed to wooden logs. The master must choose a specific refinement scheme on the spot, taking into account all the features of the steam room floor. The purpose of refining a standard tray is that the boards should fit snugly against its surfaces, the appearance of leaks should be excluded.

Check the position of the floor plane again before installing the tray. From the opposite wall, it is recommended to place the tray on the entire surface of one board; for this, it is laid perpendicular to the rest. It is much easier to lay one whole board perpendicular than to use many short pieces. This should be considered at the stage of measurements and preparation of lumber.

To drain water from the receiving tray, lead pipes to the receiver. They can be brought outside, or you can install the receiver inside the steam room. How it's done?

1. Prepare a container. The volume depends on the expected amount of water, but in the vast majority of cases, a plastic or metal barrel of one hundred liters is enough.
2. Dig a hole of the appropriate size in the corner of the room, install several metal bars or corners in diameter at the bottom. Capacity will be based on them.
3. Turn the barrel upside down and gently lower it into the hole. Fill the gaps between the container with sand or earth.
4. Make holes in it and attach drain pipes to them.

Step 4 Nail slats or pieces of boards for the crate (subfloor) to the bottom of the log. Insulation plates will be laid on them. It is needed in order to increase the comfort of staying in the steam room for young children. Wooden slats should also be impregnated with any anti-rotting solution.

Step 5 It is recommended to prepare the floor boards in advance in length. If there are problems with the dimensions of the bath (the angles are not equal to 90 °), then the length of each board will have to be adjusted separately. To facilitate further installation, fitted boards should be numbered.

Practical advice. It is more profitable to prepare the boards before installing the insulation layer: it is dangerous to move along it, it creates significant restrictions on movement.

Do not forget that the end of each board must fit snugly into the groove of the drain tray. Work on fitting the floor will have to be done manually, carefully use carpentry tools. Never violate safety regulations. Professional builders say that tools should not be feared, otherwise it will be difficult to work. But they must be respected, the only way to prevent injury.

Step 6 Install insulation in niches. For a steam room, a thickness of five centimeters is enough. It may seem to inexperienced developers that this is not enough, because all building codes and regulations recommend a thickness of the insulation layer of at least ten centimeters. In regions with a cold climate, this parameter increases to 25 cm. The recommendations are correct, but only for residential premises, those in which people are constantly. The stay in the steam room is short. During this time, a layer of insulation 5 cm will not have time to warm up to its full thickness, there will be no loss of active thermal energy. And after everyone has accepted water procedures, heat loss does not matter.

The gaps between the insulation and wooden structures must be carefully foamed. It is recommended to use ordinary mounting foam, it is inexpensive, and the positive effect of the application is significant. If there is no practice of foaming, then it is better to learn a little, and then get to work.

Practical advice. If the amount of material is calculated correctly, then the protruding foam does not interfere with fixing the floor boards in the steam room. Cut off the excess should only be in exceptional cases. The fact is that during solidification, the pores close, water does not get inside the foam. And after cutting off the excess, air pores open, moisture calmly penetrates into the thickness of the foam. The negative consequences of such a situation are well known to all.

Step 7 Start laying boards on the floor, pay attention to the previously made numbering. If the boards are dry and even, then no problems arise. If they are warped due to high humidity or improper storage, then each will have to be pulled together. This is not very difficult to do, but you need to buy finished fixture for tightening or make it yourself.

Each board is fixed at the edges with two hardware. You can use self-tapping screws (long and expensive) or ordinary nails. The length of the nails is selected depending on the thickness of the boards. But there is one mandatory requirement: the depth of nailing in the log must be at least two board thicknesses. Otherwise, the risks of loosening pilaf in the steam room are high. For example, if the thickness of the boards is 25 mm, then the length of the nails should be approximately 70 mm.

Step 8 The gaps between the floor and the walls along the perimeter of the room can also be foamed. This will be additional sealing.

Step 9 Nail the plinth. If your elements are made of plastic, then you do not need to cut off the protruding foam, we have already told you why. Skirting boards are fixed with small nails or self-tapping screws.

On this, the work on laying the floor in the steam room is completed, you can proceed to the finishing coating of the front surface.

Finish coat

As a topcoat, it is allowed to use a special stable varnish. Before applying the surface should be sanded, dust thoroughly vacuumed. For grinding, it is better to use an electric machine, it not only facilitates the work, but also significantly improves the quality. Hands never like this smooth surface not to do.

Acrylic wear-resistant varnishes have proven good performance in practice. If the manufacturers are responsible, then the floor will be used for a long time, no periodic repair work due to the wear of the finish coating will not have to be done.

You can cover with an ordinary paint brush, the number of layers is at least two. Moreover, during the coating with the second layer, the brush should move in a perpendicular direction to the first. For steam rooms, it is recommended to do three or four layers of varnish, due to this, the duration of operation increases. Each subsequent one is applied only after the previous one has completely dried, there is no need to try to reduce the number of layers by increasing the thickness of each. Such a gross violation of coating technology has extremely negative consequences.

At the end of the work, it is recommended to ventilate the steam room for several days, during which time unpleasant odors and harmful substances will be completely removed. chemical compounds. After the first warm-up, the ventilation must also be repeated, and only then is it allowed to enter the steam room.

Prices for floor boards

floor boards

Video - Wooden solid floor in the steam room

Video - Draining water from a bath on screw piles

The installation of floors in the bath is a very important process and has its own fundamental features. Failure to comply with which will lead to the construction of a cold floor and its rapid decay. An improperly made floor and the drain of used water under it can cause unpleasant odors in the bath.

Everyone wants to spend time comfortably and profitably in a bathhouse in which the floor is properly and evenly arranged, where you don’t have to step barefoot in dirty puddles or jump from grate to grate.

It is impossible to imagine a bath without water procedures. And where there is water, the issue of its withdrawal or discharge must be resolved. Thanks to this, the floor will prolong its operation for a long time.

For the manufacture of floors in the bath, wood and concrete are used everywhere. And how to make it yourself, using simple materials, we will consider in different ways.

And in the dressing room (rest room or locker room), and in the washing and steam rooms, the floors should be warm. Gradually, step by step, we will consider the construction of floors in the best options in these rooms and in this article.

Step-by-step guide for installing the floor in the bath

Before proceeding with the installation of floors in the bath, you need to decide which floor to choose and how to mount it: suspended directly along the logs or laid on the ground with insulation. And the soil inside my bath is what: sandy and dry or clayey and often wet. And where the water will merge, I need to help the water find a way out of the bath or it will stagnate and gradually dry out on its own. Here we need an objective approach and the same answer.

In general, it is customary to subdivide the floors in the bath: into:

• Leaking wooden
• non-leaking wooden
• Concrete with insulation and covered with tiles on top

All other floors are varieties and modifications of the above. Consider the device of these floors separately, as well as in a combined version, it all depends on their purpose and operating conditions.

The device of the floor in the rest room is not leaking wooden.

Very often, a rest room in a bath combines the concept of a dressing room and a dressing room. In this room, its operation is always dry inside, as in a residential building. To lay the log, it is necessary to lay columns of 400 x 400 mm made of reinforced concrete and brick. The upper plane of the support posts should be flush with the upper plane of the strip foundation. Align if necessary.

Consider a non-leaking wooden floor as a suspended option. In the picture we see a backing beam, it is also called a beam and logs are mounted on it. You can start installation without beams, right along the logs.

Lay logs 150 x 150 mm impregnated with an antiseptic agent on the waterproofing of the supporting posts and the edge of the foundation. Nail cranial bars 50 x 50 mm to the lower edges of the lag and lay a rough flooring of edged boards, 25-30 mm thick, on them. Coat the boards of the rough flooring with an antiseptic. Let dry.

Lay parchment or unrefined paper on the rough flooring with a whip of 200 mm, if the insulation mineral wool or roofing material, if expanded clay of different fractions in size is poured as a heater.

Then, on top of the logs, a clean floor is laid from floorboards with a quarter. Boards are rallied according to standard rules. Usually, floorboards are made from softwood, as it is cheaper than larch.

Along the perimeter of the room, the boards should not reach the walls by 2 cm. There should be a distance of 15 cm between the insulation and the top board for ventilation and there should be air vents in the foundation walls.

How to make a floor in the washing department and steam room?

About the arrangement of floors in these two departments, the most important ones, for the sake of which the bath is being built, it is necessary to speak and show a lot and in more detail. The floors in these rooms can be: wood leaking and non-leaking or concrete with insulation and covered with tiles on top.

At present, thought does not stand still, and with its development, new proposals appear. The author of the idea proposed below combined the washing rooms and the steam room with one common volumetric underground. Leaking wooden floors have been installed in both rooms. Consider their device.

1. Leaking floors in the bath:

There has always been a leaking or pouring floor in Russian baths. That's just where the water goes under the floor - this important question solved in different ways, depending on constructive solutions and smart approach. Let's say right away - in the steam room and in the sink, a leaking wooden floor with slots of 5 - 6 mm is being built. In the underground between these two rooms there should not be a strip foundation, but a columnar one is allowed.

When the boiler is kindled, the movement of cold and warm air through the underground. Air moves through open door and through a special window in the interior wall. The premises of the bath warm up well, the floor becomes warm and you can bathe and wash, which means pouring water. We watch a video about the movement of drains outside the bath.

There are different schemes for the release of effluents from the bath, and then they will be considered for comparison and selection.

The basis for a leaking wooden floor is an expanded clay concrete screed arranged on the ground and it is sequentially done as follows:

• On the base of the soil of the steam room and washing departments, a layer of sand is poured, leveled and compacted first, then a layer of crushed stone. Total thickness 250 mm;
• This layer is covered with a thick plastic film in 3 layers with a rise along the perimeter to the walls. The edges of each layer are glued with frost-resistant tape. This layer serves as a waterproofing layer.
• Lay down metal mesh with cells 80 - 100 mm.
• Guides are mounted with a slope towards the drain drain. Lighthouses are fixed by slides. A slope equal to 3 cm per 1 m of guides is observed.
• Expanded clay concrete is laid between the guides and leveled by the rule in compliance with the slope.
• Make a grout of cement mortar and smooth out all the bumps well.

Expanded clay was chosen as a heater. It has a number of positive qualities - it is an environmentally friendly material obtained by accelerated firing of fusible clays. It has high performance and can reduce heat loss by 50 - 75%. Expanded clay gravel is inexpensive compared to other popular heaters.

It is weatherproof, fireproof, odorless, does not emit harmful components in case of fire. Concrete prepared using expanded clay is much lighter than crushed stone. Fractions are used different from 5 to 30 mm.

For reliable setting, cement grade M400-M500 is used. Experts advise adding a plasticizer. Proportional composition for the preparation of the mixture: 2 parts of expanded clay, 1 part of water, 1 part of cement, 3 parts of sand.

It is not difficult to mix the composition yourself. It is necessary to prepare a construction mixer and a large metal container. And you can cook and concrete mixer.

From practice, it is advised to soak expanded clay in water so that it does not float. In the process of mixing, expanded clay concrete acquires a characteristic gray color. It is necessary to pour in place immediately after kneading. The solution is poured between the beacons from the corner of the room to the funnel. Complete drying of expanded clay concrete occurs in a month. You can find out the readiness by placing a glass jar upside down, it should not fog up.

This is how a leaky wooden floor is made with a base of expanded clay concrete. At the location of the drain, make a shield or cover to access the funnel and clean it of debris and broom leaves.

2. Concrete floor with insulation and tiling.

In this option, there is a strip foundation between the washing room and the steam room. Therefore, each room should have its own drain with a ladder.

Both for the washing room and for the steam room, such a floor is made and it is well maintained. It is made in exactly the same way as the base of expanded clay concrete, only to increase the thermal performance, dry expanded clay is additionally poured onto the metal mesh and the thickness of the expanded clay concrete layer is increased.

Then in the usual way lay ceramic tiles with grouting and with a slope towards the drain. Additionally, they make a border of tiles on the walls around the perimeter.

Wooden shields are placed on top of the tiles on the floor, strong and securely made. Still, the tile floor slips.

Any floor ends with a drain and it is best if it is thought out before the foundation is erected, in order to lay knocked together boxes of boards or metal pipes as a case in the body of the foundation. And, objectively speaking about where you will have a drain well, outside the foundation, with the location of the drain inside, dig trenches and lay PVC sewer pipes with a slope. Make a slope of at least 3 cm per 1 m of pipe.

Put special frost-resistant sewer pipes with a diameter of 110 mm, because the pipes are durable, and you want more comfortable conditions over the years - that means a reserve. Maybe in the future you will make a toilet and dish sink in the rest room or install a shower cabin with an electric water heater and pipe cold water for the summer period.

Sewer pipes in the trench must be insulated with ready-made Energoflex polyethylene foam. It is sold in various lengths and different diameter with a cut along the pipe, so it is simply put on it and the seam is sealed. Trenches with pipes can be covered with sand, expanded clay, then earth.

With the arrangement of drains with ladders, the washing room is connected by a PVC pipe to the steam room and then the drains go beyond the walls of the bath into a drainage well. Eat good video about this theme.

Consideration should also be given to life situation when, when arranging the drain, you did as described above in the article, but for some unknown reason, the smell from the external well penetrates into the bathhouse and you feel it. No need to get upset, because there is a constructive way to avoid this. This will help a special device in the gangway. Look carefully at the pictures with the ladder.

It is not at all difficult to understand the device of this ladder, which is installed in the drain hole. In the second color picture, you can see how air bubbles from the external well with a smell try to get inside the bath, but the water seal prevents them. A red cap is put on top of the outlet and it seems to float in the drain water.

If water gets into the drain from time to time and there is a possibility of the water seal drying up and, accordingly, the appearance of unpleasant odors from the sewer, then to eliminate this problem, drains with a “dry” siphon “Primus” are used. He is in front of you in the picture.

If there is water in it, the siphon works like a regular siphon, and when the water seal evaporates, the drain hole is blocked by the movable upper part of the siphon (cap).

Usually, ladders are installed in the baths with vertical outlet and non-freezing siphon brand HL310N.2

3. Non-leaking wood floors

Non-leaking wooden floors in the washing room and in the steam room can be done by the owner of the bath himself, but more difficult than the previous options. Here it is the principle of arranging this floor.

The picture shows two types of a non-drip floor device: with a drain in the center of the room and with a drain closer to the other opposite wall.

The slope of the floor is created by arranging a cut in the body of the log. A non-leaking floor is made of two layers of flooring: rough and finish. The boards must be of coniferous species, and the final floor is made of higher quality boards, without knots and gaps.

The direction of the boards is towards the drain. The drain itself is mounted in different ways, more often from a galvanized sheet. And then, whoever knows how: you can go into a pit, and then into a pipe and a well, or you can make a ladder with a “dry” siphon and also connect it through a pipe to a well on the street. Access to the ladder must be for cleaning and repair.

The picture on the left shows the presence of all layers of a non-drip floor. This floor is considered hinged, wooden and warm. It is also made, but more often specialists are invited to install it.

If you yourself dare to do the installation of such a floor - consult a specialist, it will not be superfluous, but will only give self-confidence.

Water through the drain gutter can be diverted to a pit, which is made of reinforced concrete. From the drain pit sewer pipe go to the outer well.

After bath procedures, the floors in the bath should dry out in order to prolong their operational capabilities for a long time. To do this, someone then heats the bath. But the installation of a ventilation duct near the wall of the bath with an outlet to the attic will not interfere with the floor and will make it possible to “breathe”.

Between the upper finishing floor and the upper waterproofing, which lies on the insulation, there must be an air gap of up to 150 mm.

The galvanized sheet is simply stuck into the body of the log and fixed with an overlap on the floor.

And so around the perimeter of the bathhouse.

The ventilation duct is made of boards tightly or from an ordinary galvanized thick sheet.

I hope the article was useful for you. Build yourself and strive to improve your living conditions. Good luck!

The bath is a specific structure, the construction of which has special requirements. When building a Russian bath, it is important to take into account two main features of this building: high humidity and high temperature. The floor in the bath is the coldest place, while the materials for it should only have natural origin. If they contain synthetic components, they will release toxic substances when heated. The floor in the steam room has its own characteristics, since this part of the bath is characterized by the highest temperatures. How to make a floor in a steam room?

Primary requirements

The floors in the bath must meet certain safety requirements. It is necessary to choose a coating for bath pilaf, taking into account injury safety indicators. It is better to refuse tile covering, as the slippery surface of the floor can lead to unwanted injuries. The design of the floor is formed taking into account the high humidity of the room. If you prefer to see boardwalk in your steam bath, then it should be made only from coniferous wood, resistant to both moisture and decay processes.

The floor in the steam room is preferably made solid. In this section of the bath, there is no need to create a leaky structure. The coating may not have slots, but it must be sloped towards the drain, which is located above the drainage pit. Experts recommend covering the edges of the floor with a waterproof baseboard. Such a plinth will act as a protective barrier and protect the wooden floorboards from rotting. The bottom edge of the walls under the baseboard will be closed, so moisture cannot penetrate under the wall sheathing.

As an additional covering in Russian baths, removable lattice panels are often used. Such panels can be placed in the steam room. Wooden lattices are impregnated with antiseptic agents before use and dried well after each procedure. Removable panels, if necessary, can be easily replaced with new ones, as they are inexpensive.

A tiled floor in a steam room of a Russian bath is not entirely appropriate, not only because of the slippery surface. This coating is very hot, so the tiled floor in the steam room can burn your feet. The use of wooden gratings easily solves this problem.

If you want to make a concrete floor in the bath, then you must first consider its insulation. As heaters, mineral or basalt wool is most often used. As a cushion of insulation, a base of crushed stone and sand is poured, after which they are engaged in hydro and vapor barrier.

For long-term operation of floors in a steam bath during construction, it is necessary to provide ventilation holes in the foundation. They will supply the flow fresh air necessary to dry the floor, prevent decay processes and eliminate unpleasant odors.

For floor covering in the steam room choose natural materials, the use of linoleum, laminate or other similar coatings in the bath is not allowed: when their surface is heated, you can be poisoned by the released toxic elements. Chemical compositions woodworking should also be used with great care. The best option would be to completely abandon them, if this is not possible, then pay attention to funds produced specifically for such purposes.

You can make the floor in the steam room of the bath with your own hands, the main thing is to choose not only good Construction Materials for the floor, but also to choose high-quality fasteners. All parts must be resistant to moisture and high temperatures. Ordinary nails quickly become rusty and leave dirty streaks on the wood, and hot fasteners can even cause a burn.

Draft floor

The floor of the bath should consist of rough and finish coatings. Modern floor designs for bath rooms involve a combination of a concrete base and a top boardwalk. Old ways, including a wooden base, are a thing of the past. This method of arranging the floors of the bath is not effective due to the rapid deterioration of the rough coating from moisture and decay.

A concrete screed for the floor in the steam room is made at an angle to the drain. Baths do not provide for water drainage from this room, since it is already in the washing department: it makes no sense to organize another drain. Work begins with the laying of boards on the supporting beams and laying a waterproofing layer of polyethylene film. The film is covered in several layers, the walls of the steam room around the perimeter are pasted over with a damper tape.

The concrete floor in the steam room will expand under the influence of high temperatures, the damper tape, acting as a shock absorber, will protect the walls from mechanical stress. All work can be done by hand concrete base poured according to the principle of a standard screed. The solution is poured onto the prepared base to a height of 10 cm; for the strength of such a screed, a reinforcing mesh should be laid before pouring.

After the concrete has dried, it is necessary to lay a layer of thermal insulation materials. The floor in the steam room is not involved in the heating of the bath, and the concrete base has a low temperature. Experts advise installing a layer of polystyrene on top of the concrete base, which will reflect heat back into the steam room.

When the insulation is fixed, you can proceed to the installation of beacons and pouring the finishing screed. Beacons are installed taking into account the slope of the surface to the hole for water drainage. Finishing fill is made with a standard cement mortar with the addition of liquid glass: this substance will become an additional binding element and moisture protection.

wooden flooring

The final floor covering in the bath may be different, you can leave a concrete screed or cover it with tiles or porcelain stoneware. Under these conditions, during the operation of the facility for a comfortable visit to the bath, you will have to use wooden gratings. by the most the best option finishes can be recognized as a wooden floor, such a coating is appropriate to use in the steam room of the bath, and in the washing department. Plank floors are the best solution for a bath. They are made of environmentally friendly material, are pleasant to look at and retain the very spirit of the Russian bath.

Boards before laying are pre-treated with special compositions for baths. Impregnation will protect the wood from water and the spread of fungus and mold. Then on rough coating lags are installed. Usually they are attached to the walls of the log house on the corners or staples. Specialists mount them in masonry even during the construction of walls. To understand how the junctions of the lag with the walls should look like, it is recommended to consider a photo of the process of arranging a wooden floor in a bath.

Logs must be installed strictly horizontally, in the course of work it is necessary to constantly check with a level. It is not required to make a slope of the final finishing floor; the final coating will be installed on even logs. The floor in the steam room is exposed to moisture. In order for water to drain onto the concrete base, the boards should be installed with some gaps. The optimal distance can be considered a value of 0.5-1 cm - such gaps will not create inconvenience when visiting the bath, and water will flow down freely. When leaving gaps, it must be taken into account that after several visits to the steam board, under the influence of humidity and temperature, they will expand slightly, and the distance between them will noticeably decrease.

The boards are fixed to the joists with self-tapping screws. The heads of the self-tapping screws should not protrude over the board, so they should be sunk deeper into the wood, and then sealed with a special heat-resistant compound.

You can make a wooden floor in a steam room with your own hands in a few days, but making a concrete base takes much more time. Subject to all the requirements for arranging the floor in a steam bath, you will receive a high-quality coating that is resistant to the specific conditions of the room and ready for continuous use.

In order for the floor in the steam room to last as long as possible, you need to know a few important points. Any work requires an action plan, therefore, before starting work, it is strongly recommended to start drawing up a drawing of a future bath. In the process, it is necessary to determine the parameters of the structure and its premises, the location and dimensions of the main internal structures. Wooden flooring with a concrete base takes up a lot of space and reaches a minimum of 20 cm in height.

How to make a reliable floor in the steam room? In order for the floor to serve you as long as possible, the wood for its manufacture must be as dry as possible. If the humidity of the boards is high, then the entire flooring will lead after the first use of the steam room for its intended purpose. Wood must be well impregnated with special protective substances, sometimes the procedure can be repeated more than once. The better the material is protected, the longer it will last.

When installing wooden flooring, gaps must remain not only between the boards, but also between the flooring itself and the wall. The reason for this arrangement of boards is the same: the wood will swell over time and rest against the wall. To avoid distortions of the walls and floor, experts advise leaving a distance of a couple of centimeters around the perimeter of the steam room.

From any synthetic materials and chemicals containing toxic substances, it is better to refuse. The harmful elements emitted during heating can spoil your health, and the bath is a place where both the soul and the body are cured.

Once a person becomes the master country house, he has a quite predictable desire to have a bathhouse as well. This building is very easy to construct with your own hands, and you do not have to spend large financial resources. When building a bath, close attention should be paid to the floor structure - a well-mounted coating will ensure the outflow of water, and will not rot, and will not stop functioning ahead of time. In addition, a pleasant appearance will always please the eye.

In order to adequately cope with the task, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the types of flooring and the specifics of their application.

Peculiarities

It is very important to pay attention to the design and implementation of the floor structure in the bath. If everything is done with high quality, it will be possible to provide high comfort to everyone in the room, as well as the durability of its service and versatility.

The peculiarity of the floor in the bath is that it performs several equivalent functions. Firstly, the coating ensures the safety of movement of a person who is at the junction of "two elements". Secondly, in the steam room area, it is responsible for removing excess water. Thirdly, it is an important part of the whole structure of the sauna house. It is worth adding that the floor also contributes to the retention of heat in the room.

Most often, the floor in the bathhouse is made of wood and concrete. Sometimes a brick is used, which differs high cost and complicated installation procedure.

Floor device

To design a steam room, one of two basic types of floor is used: leaking and non-leaking. The leaky one is always represented by a wooden structure made of floorboards, which is mounted on a supporting lag system. As for the logs, they are mounted at a certain height on the support pillars, lower crown or concrete screed. In order for the water to descend unhindered, a tiny gap is left between the rugs.

A non-leaking floor is made of wood or concrete. It is a monolithic coating with a small slope, in lowest point which cuts a hole connected to the sewerage system. Through it, the used water is sent to the drain hole.

Both varieties show certain advantages and disadvantages. A leaky floor collects pretty soon, but just as quickly it fails. It is worth adding that if it is not insulated, then the temperature in the steam room will be problematically low.

The non-leaking layer demonstrates a complex structure, which allows for high-quality waterproofing and thermal insulation. In the event of a breakdown, you will have to completely remove the final layer, while for the leaking one, removing only part of the rugs is enough.

materials

According to experts, it is best to make the base of the floor from concrete, especially if there is a desire to build a capital building of brick or stone, with several rooms, which will be used throughout the year. The concrete floor must be supplemented with a water drainage system and provided with waterproofing. This design is strong and durable, it is not afraid of water, steam, or temperature changes. Concrete floors can be used for up to 45 years without additional repairs.

However, there are also certain disadvantages. Firstly, they are cold, so you have to insulate with an additional coating, for example, tiled or bulk. Secondly, concrete floors require significant investments, both financial and labor. Concrete floors can be poured in three stages.

If a small bathhouse is being built, operated only for summer season, that is, it makes sense to choose a wooden floor. It is quickly and easily built from environmentally friendly materials (preferably a larch board), looks very attractive and creates a unique atmosphere of an old Russian sauna in the steam room.

Unfortunately, such structures are not durable, because in any case, wood will lose its original characteristics, being treated with water and temperature changes. From this it follows that it is worth being ready to re-lay the floor after a certain period of time.

When installing wooden floors, it is recommended to choose coniferous trees- fir, larch, pine and others. Since such wood contains a large amount of resin, it will be less susceptible to moisture, and the released essential oils will positively affect the health of those taking water procedures. It is worth adding that softwood floorboards, when wet, will not become slippery, which means they will prevent falling.

Wooden structures are divided into leaking and non-leaking. The pouring floor does not have insulation, therefore it is suitable for bathhouses located in the southern regions, or for options operated exclusively in the warm season.

A non-leaking floor is built from two layers of boards. The upper one, which will go on top of the lag, is preferably constructed from a pine or hardwood board, and the lower, dry one, can be equipped with a heater.

Logs are installed on the embedded beam in the case of a column foundation, or on the edge in a situation with a strip foundation. Contact points are insulated with roofing material coated with bitumen, eurobitumen or similar waterproofing material.

If the bath begins to stand on screw piles, then a hanging, leak-proof plank floor will be a good option. An additional layer of insulation will help you use the bath at any time of the year.

Wooden floors should not be painted or treated with chemical solutions. This is unlikely to add durability, but it will deprive the boards of the opportunity to breathe and fill the steam room with a unique coniferous aroma. The most acceptable solution would be to carefully sand the boards before starting construction. You can also cover the floor with a heat-resistant varnish on water based withstanding up to 120 degrees. The elastic coating resists moisture, fumes and dirt from penetrating into the boards.

The two-layer composition is applied to the sanded and disinfected coating using a paint brush. The whole procedure is carried out in a ventilated room at a temperature of 5-30 degrees. Only after the varnish has dried after 2-3 hours is it allowed to start laying the floor covering.

Preparatory work

Having decided to create a floor in the bath with your own hands, you need to start with high-quality preparatory work. The owner must deal with the type of soil that is present on his territory. If sand, then this is the best option, because in order to equip spaces for outgoing drains, you only have to fill in gravel 25 cm thick. If there is soil that does not filter well, for example, clay, then you will have to make a tray for moving liquid waste outside the bath .

In the case of large-scale bath buildings, it is also worth considering the supporting pillars in advance. Under each column with a cross section of 25 cm, a small foundation is prepared or sand is rammed. An asbestos pipe with the required diameter, buried in the ground, will become a good support. The soil is rammed around, and then it is poured into the finished formwork cement mortar. Before installation, the lag columns are aligned.

Before installing the floor, it is also necessary to remove excess rubbish, roots, large stones and the like from the ground. If inner part bearing blocks are clearly damp, then work will have to be postponed until they are partially dry.

Installation

A concrete floor is a conventional screed made from a solution of sand, cement and special fillers such as crushed stone, gravel or natural marble chips. Ready mixes are sold in all hardware stores in a dry form and are completely ready for use. The mixture is diluted with ordinary water, according to the step-by-step guide, mixed with a perforator with a suitable nozzle and used for its intended purpose.

If the screed will be the final coating or light boards will be fixed to it, no additional ingredients need to be added to the mixture. If the concrete is to be covered with tiles, then it is recommended to introduce gypsum and anhydrite into the initial composition. You can do it yourself or purchase a suitable option in the store.

The concrete floor is mounted on logs or directly on the ground. If you follow the step-by-step instructions, then first of all you have to create a system for removing water. It is a construction of a small hole dug in the ground and two pipes. The pit measures 40 x 40 x 30 centimeters and its walls and bottom are to be covered with concrete. On one side of the pit, a pipe with a cross section of 20 cm is inserted, which will go into the gutter or into autonomous septic tank. The second pipe will connect the pit to the bath itself.

It is recommended to provide it with a valve to prevent unpleasant odors from entering the steam room. In addition, it is recommended to make “vents” from asbestos pipes in the basement of the bath. They will help to eliminate unpleasant "olfactory effects".

At the second stage, it is necessary to prepare a platform on which the screed will be placed. To create a "pit", the top layer of soil is removed, then sand, brick breakage, gravel and crushed stone are poured into the resulting recess. A layer of the first three components should reach a thickness of 25 cm, and gravel - 10. Everything is well compacted and poured with a mixture of sand and cement, up to 6 centimeters thick.

It is important that concrete layer turned out to be sloping towards the prepared hole with pipes.

After the mortar has dried, thermal insulation and waterproofing are laid. Mineral wool and foam plastic or vapor barrier and felt insulation are used as insulation. Roofing material or ordinary roofing material can act as a waterproofing polyethylene film. The last material is placed under the thermal insulation and on top of it. At the next stage, a metal grid is mounted for high-quality reinforcement.

Finally, from the far corner to the exit from the steam room, the main screed is poured. Immediately you need to level the solution with a trowel and, if necessary, correct the flaws, which will require the help of another person. The floor will dry out for 2-3 days, and then boards or tiles can already be mounted on top. The trim is also laid at an inclination of 2 cm in the direction of the drain. If the concrete is chosen for the final floor, then it needs to be processed: leveled and sanded. Drain holes for comfort and aesthetic appeal should be covered with wooden bars.

The concrete floor is quite cold, so it is also recommended to prepare special wooden gratings for people to walk on. These grilles are dried after each visit to the bath. The same constructions apply in the presence ceramic tiles. They allow you to limit slipping on the floor and excessive heating of the tile.

The floor in a wooden bath is created in two different ways. The first allows you to make a leaky coating, and the second - non-leaking. In the first case, suitable for beginners, a deck of boards is mounted at intervals of approximately 3 mm to remove liquids. Through them, the water moves immediately into the hole for drainage. The dominant trump card is the fact that such a floor can be removed and dried, which means that it will not rot and can be used for a longer time.

The plot of land is leveled and sprinkled with gravel. Next, a usually clay surface with a pit is formed. If the choice is given to a cement screed, then it must be provided with waterproofing. Wooden logs, which should be pre-treated, are mounted on supports through a gap of 50 cm - so the air can freely blow over the structure from all sides. Then the flooring is laid, leaving gaps of 2-3 mm between the walls, floor and boards. A slope for water drainage is arranged under a wooden deck, for which gravel is used. The descending water will be directed to the filter well.

Such a design can last up to 6 years if the coating is periodically dried. It is recommended to collect it from larch or coniferous species, but in no case from oaks, which are very slippery when wet. The boards should be 4–5 cm thick. Usually, leaking floors are used in summer cottages, where the owners come periodically during the summer season.

The second type of wooden floors is non-leaking with a drain, which is chosen by the owners of year-round heating bathhouses. The floor is placed on a concrete screed with a slope, which is formed so that the water flows down without problems and is directed to a sump adapted for this. These coatings can last up to 12 years, due to the presence of draft and heat-insulating layers.

First of all, a hole is made with pipes according to the algorithm given for concrete floors. Then the site is prepared, and, if desired, a concrete screed is poured. The floor base is covered with roofing felt for waterproofing and expanded clay foam for insulation.

The logs are mounted on solid bedside tables, which are cut out of reinforced concrete and decorated with brick or concrete stands, through a gap of 50 centimeters. Then the intermediate base is installed. The height at which the lags are planned is determined depending on the height of the embedded beam (with a columnar foundation) or concrete "tapes" (with a strip foundation). Logs are placed in parallel with the narrow side of the steam room away from the walls of the bath - it is recommended to consider a gap of 3–4 cm. Cuts should also be made on the logs to achieve an inclined surface.

A water collector with dimensions of 40 x 40 cm and a depth of 30 cm is placed between the supports and compacted concrete mortar or clay. At a height of 2 cm from the bottom, a pipe is mounted at an angle so that the liquid calmly enters the cesspool.

The "lower" floor of low-grade boards, fixed from the bottom of the beams, is covered with another layer of insulation and roofing material, as well as vapor barrier, which will protect all previous levels from liquids. After that, with a slope of 10 degrees, a finishing layer of tongue-and-groove boards is mounted. The mounting groove must fit inside the structure. The slope arises due to the fact that the clearing in the lag increases on the side that goes to the collection point.

It is important that the boards adjoin closely, and the coating is attached to the joists with screws and nails at an angle of 45 degrees. Boards are selected with a thickness of 3–5 cm. The foundation for the stove-heater is mounted after installing the log, but before laying the flooring.

Upon completion of all these works, the room is dried, the boards are finally nailed, and the floor itself is supplemented with skirting boards. The plinth should be mounted so that the flowing moisture cannot be under the slats. This means that there should not be any gaps, and the sheathing should lie down on the baseboard itself.

Warm floor

The warm floor in the bathhouse allows not only to achieve the optimal microclimate in the room, but also to dry it with high quality. Thus, there is an extension of the duration of the operation of the finish and lower floors. The underfloor heating system is actually expensive, but it creates additional comfort for its owners.

To design a heated system in a bath, you can use two methods: water pipes or an electric cable. The first option is rather complicated in terms of installation. Water pipes are heavy, especially under water pressure. This means that you will have to make reinforced reinforcement of the floor screed. It is a closed pipeline system through which, due to the operation of the pump, the liquid heat carrier moves. Usually it is water, but antifreeze, ethylene glycol and other varieties are also allowed. In order to equip such a system, you will need a boiler, pump, plastic or copper pipes, as well as fittings.

The design is complex, so it will be problematic to identify the cause of the leak, especially if there is a concrete screed. And in case of serious damage, you will have to change the entire system. The disadvantages of the water floor in the steam room also include:

• installation complexity - many bends, it is difficult to maintain the necessary gaps between the pipes;
• the use of a water pump is a plentiful waste of energy resources;
• difficult temperature control.

There are two ways of laying a water floor: concrete and flooring. The first is similar to laying electronic cables, but is thicker. The pipe laying step reaches 40 cm. Sharp bends and kinks that interfere with the circulation of the coolant should not be observed. The second is carried out on a special basis made of wood or polystyrene foam. In addition, a warm floor can also be mounted on a wooden surface.

For the installation of a floor with water heating, pipes made of metal-plastic, polyethylene or steel are most often used. Their laying is carried out in two ways: "snake" or "snail". The first method is available only to professionals, as it is considered very laborious. Its main disadvantage is that the floor surface experiences different temperature conditions. At the entrance, they are usually the highest, and the farther away, the colder. The fact is that the water supply occurs from one side, and leaves - to the other. The second laying method allows you to evenly distribute heat throughout the floor.

For the construction of the electrical system, factory "cable floors", film infrared models or rod infrared mats are used. Very often there are concerns about the safety of using an electric heated floor in a steam room or washroom. The owners are worried that due to a breakdown there will be a threat of electric shock. However, this option is impossible, because the possibility of the appearance of liquid in the system tends to zero. The design warms up under the action of high temperatures and dry air, and even in the event of a breakdown, moisture simply does not have time to get inside.

Electrical cables are quite simple and in every way easy to install. They are sold ready-made "submarines", which remains to be placed on the floor surface and poured with concrete. The cable must be laid on a mesh base. This system has no special problems with repair and installation. In addition, it is equipped with temperature sensors.

Infrared electric underfloor heating is said to be the most affordable and easiest way to provide auxiliary heating. Thermal film, sold in rolls, is rolled out on the coating, and strips with heating elements are glued to the base with a primitive adhesive tape. There is no need for a cement screed, nor for additional waterproofing and thermal insulation.

Tile adhesive is immediately poured on top of the film, and tiles are mounted, usually from porcelain stoneware or clinker. The floor covering can be placed directly on the warm layer, but the craftsmen still prefer to leave it between the film and floor cladding insulating layer.

Infrared floors are completely sealed and electrically safe and can be used even on floors with wooden components. The maximum heating temperature is 45 degrees and is very comfortable for visitors.

Elements of a rod infrared heat-insulated floor are also called mats. The heating elements in them are rods that are attached to the power wires. The rod "joins" are made in parallel, so the failure of one rod will not lead to disruption of the entire system, which is very thoughtful. The core floor is mounted in tile adhesive or cement screed.

Conventional underfloor heating is placed on thermal insulation, then leveled with a screed, on top of which the final coating is placed. Professionals also recommend not saving on waterproofing, which can prevent condensation from appearing during the work process. As a waterproofing, a simple polyethylene film is used, as a heater - mineral wool, expanded clay, expanded polystyrene and penofol.

Do not forget that when choosing a warm floor, it is extremely important to correctly approach the purchase of the final floor covering. If it is a tile that heats up quickly, you will have to put wooden grates on top.

Design

There are a huge number of options for finishing bath rooms: steam rooms, washing rooms, rest rooms. However, the design of the flooring is not particularly original - as a rule, it is concise and functional, and other decorative elements are responsible for the aesthetic component. Usually the choice depends on personal preferences and financial capabilities. The main criteria are still the use of natural materials, minimalism and convenience.

The following materials are suitable for the floor:

• tree- looks natural, creates the right atmosphere, affordable and environmentally friendly;
• concrete- durable, but aesthetically unattractive, and the problem of cold is still acute;

• tile- a bunch of color solutions, it is possible to pick up non-slip models;
• porcelain stoneware- looks aesthetically pleasing, but slippery, so if applied, it is better for a rest room, matte or polished.

The traditional finish of the steam room involves the use of hardwood lining as a wall covering. Such walls warm up quickly, but their temperature is considered comfortable for casual touches. In no case should pine lining be used to decorate a steam room, since this base, when heated, produces toxic substances. For the ceiling, a lining made of class A or B linden is suitable. If there is a desire to decorate a traditional Russian bathhouse, then a linden croaker with a bast will be the best finishing option.

The floor in the steam room can be made of wood or concrete, and a block of tiles can be placed near the stove. If it is decided to cover the entire surface with tiles, you will have to take care of wooden grates that will not heat up.

Most often, preference is given to wooden coatings. The interior should be lively, natural and without the presence of synthetic materials.

If preference is given to a steam room - a sauna, then you can use a variety of design solutions. For example, combine lining with stone, and brick with granite slabs and a block house. However, for the floor, only wooden coverings are again recommended.

For the washroom, as a rule, combinations of wood and ceramic tiles are chosen. For example, it can be softwood, which has high water-repellent characteristics and an attractive appearance.

The tile must be anti-slip and retain comfortable temperature. Otherwise, a special mat is required.

In the vestibule or rest room, aesthetic combinations of porcelain stoneware, natural stone, wallpaper and plaster are used. The design is carried out by a harmonious combination of furniture, accessories and finishing materials. There are no special requirements, the only thing is that the rest room tunes in the right way and allows you to spend time comfortably.

So that the process of installing the floor in the bath goes “without a hitch”, experts recommend following a number of regulations.

• For insulation, you should choose materials that are least responsive to elevated temperatures and humidity. That is, it is better to simultaneously organize not only heat, but also hydro and vapor barrier.
• The bars should be laid correctly so that the liquid has the opportunity to descend along the joint line.
• If there is a possibility of moisture filling the space under the floor, it is necessary to lay a gap from the internal backfill over the ground to the wooden base. Its size reaches 15 centimeters.
• Fiberglass floor pads on waterproofing will make movement on the floor inaudible. They are made in the form of a thick tape, which is extremely convenient.

• Wooden materials must be treated with an antiseptic. It is desirable to use a composition that can destroy all microorganisms and prevent damage to boards and beams. In addition, all wooden details pre-dried or purchased already in this form. If this is not done, the material will curl during operation, cracks will appear and the shelf life of the floor will be significantly reduced.
• If it is necessary to arrange ventilation, it is important to organize it correct conclusion. Usually a separate pipe path follows the wall to the attic. If the foundation is monolithic, then it is recommended to make holes that will connect the ventilation gaps with the air outside.
• If the area of ​​​​the steam room is large, then one drain will not cope with all the water. It will be necessary to think about a few so that the material does not rot too quickly.
• Pouring floors not only eliminate moisture, but also lead to heat loss. In this situation, it is necessary to insulate the foundation and the basement of the log house, and place the sauna stove below the floor level.

• The floor in the steam room rises relative to ground level. And in a separate washing room, on the contrary, it should be lower than in other rooms.
• It is necessary to leave a ventilation gap under the floor. It can be installed with a height of 10-15 cm.
• It is worth mounting the finishing floor so that there is an angle of inclination in the direction that is directed along the length of the boards, and not in width. This will help extend the life of the products, since the direction of water is also one of the causes in the processes of decay.

• To prevent the board from bursting when screwing in the screw, you need to work at an angle of 45 degrees.
• In no case should you use linoleum, laminate and other synthetic coatings in the baths, even in the rest room. In any case, such materials will begin to heat up and release substances that can poison the body. In the dressing room, such a coating should be placed on top of a special flooring that makes it possible to dry the floors.
• Selected boards must be edged or tongue-and-groove. Their thickness varies from 25 to 30 mm.

Beautiful examples

High-quality processed concrete screed on the floor will go well with wooden walls and ceilings. The materials for the latter can be boards and lining, forming an original combination. A large window, a laconic stove and simple wooden shelves will perfectly complement the interior.

The tiled area under the heater can become a bright accent of the steam room and, echoing the washing room, combine two interiors into one. You can add brutality to the room if you replace it with natural or artificial natural stone. He, in turn, will require inserts on the walls of the steam room itself.

The floor in the bath differs in its structure only in the steam room and washing room. The rest of the baths are operated in the usual humidity regime.

In the article, we will consider in detail the arrangement of floors in the steam room and talk about how to lay them with your own hands.

The choice of the design of the floor of the steam room and washing

The usual solution would be wooden floors. Their main advantage is the health benefits of wood, environmental friendliness and practicality. Despite the relatively short service life of wooden floors in a steam room, they are not so difficult to change, and the total cost will still be lower than the arrangement of a concrete floor.

In the steam room and washing room, a fair amount of water constantly falls on the floor, which should be diverted to the pit, drainage system, or simply into the ground under the bath. IN constructively to solve this problem, wooden floors are divided into leaking and non-leaking.

The leaking floor provides a gap between the boards. Water seeps freely into the underfloor. Then it is absorbed into the soil, if its filtering capacity allows it, or is discharged into a pit, for which a clay castle or concrete base is formed with a slope in one direction.

The second option is a non-leaking floor in the wet rooms of the bath. Such a floor is made with a non-removable coating and is replaced only at the end of its service life. A slope for collecting and draining water is provided here along the surface of the floor covering towards the tray or funnel.

A floor with a removable coating can and even needs to be disassembled and dried regularly until the bath is in use. Fixed floors due to susceptibility to decay during high humidity change completely about once every 7-8 years.

A concrete base under a leaking wooden floor in a bath significantly increases the durability of the structure, and also affects comfort - even after many years there will be no musty smell from under the floor. However, the arrangement of a concrete base significantly increases the cost of arranging a bath, so if the parent soil under the building has a high drainage capacity, then it is easier to get by with preparing a filter layer.

Materials and tools

To cover the floor in the steam room and washing room, wooden elements made of deciduous (linden, aspen) and coniferous (pine, larch, cedar) wood species are used. All wooden floor structures must be treated with antiseptics.

For flooring you will need:

• wooden beam for logs 50 (100) x100 mm;
• floor board 35 mm thick;
• cement M300, M400;
• sand of medium fraction;
• expanded clay for the heat-insulating layer;
• ordinary clay brick for posts under logs;
• waterproofing (roofing material).

It is important to choose the right protective wood impregnation. It should be suitable for baths due to high temperature and humidity. The easiest way to process wood is impregnation sunflower oil for two approaches.

Tool

The floors in the steam room are arranged using a tool for laying a concrete base on the ground and wood flooring bath floor.

Tools for working with concrete. 1. Rake-stroke. 2. Cement grater. 3. Trowel. 4. Ironer. 5. Corner ironer. 6. Rule. 7. Bubble level. 8. Pendulum profile

Woodworking tools. 1. Construction corner. 2. Staple. 3. Hammer. 4. Electric planer. 5. Clamps. 6. Hacksaw for wood. 7. Bubble level. 8. Screwdriver. 9. Drill. 10. Circular saw machine

Leaking floor from individual boards with chamfers

To prepare the soil base for the floor structure, it is imperative to remove the fertile layer, no matter how thick it is.

Leaking floor over concrete base. 1. Ground. 2. Expanded clay concrete. 3. Cement strainer. 4. Gutter. 5. brick pillar ik. 6. Waterproofing. 7. Lags. 8. Floor board

Flowing floor on the ground with filtering capacity. 1. Ground. 2. Sand cushion. 3. Gravel. 4. The foundation of the supporting column. 5. Brick pillar. 6. Waterproofing. 7. Lags. 8. Floor board

It is important at this stage to decide how and where the water will be drained outside the building. For this, a tray (200x150h mm) is provided in the concrete base, into which water flows. The bottom of the tray is made with a slope towards the drain pit (30x30x25h). It is better to locate the pit closer to the place of the external water collector. From the pit, water flows through the drain pipe to the sump.

The slope of the surface for water runoff is 2-3 cm per meter in the direction of the tray. It is created either by leveling the ground under the floor, or by filling (sand and gravel) under the concrete base. General level the floor in the steam room and washing room is 30 mm lower than in adjacent rooms with normal humidity.

A sand and gravel cushion 10–15 cm thick is laid on the compacted soil. It is necessary to fill and compact the sand in layers of no more than 5 cm, wetting it with water. Next, a heat-insulating layer of expanded clay concrete is laid. The approximate consumption of raw materials per 1 m 3 of concrete is:

1. without sand:
   • cement M300, 400 - 250 kg;
   • expanded clay - 720 kg;
   • water - 100-150 l.
2. with sand:
   • cement M300, 400 - 230 kg;
   • expanded clay - 440 kg;
   • sand - 195 kg;
   • water - 100-130 l.

It is best to prepare a concrete solution in a concrete mixer or order

It is also possible to use another light filler (shungizite, perlite, expanded vermiculite, crushed stone of porous rocks, etc.). The thickness of the expanded clay concrete layer can be taken as 150 mm. Concrete is laid in strips no more than 2.5 m wide on a base moistened with water. To limit the strips, rails are installed, they also serve as beacons for determining the thickness of the layer. The thicker the insulation layer, the warmer the floor.

Be sure to observe the slope towards the gutter or funnel to collect and drain water

A cement-sand screed 40 mm thick is laid on the layer of expanded clay concrete. The composition of the mortar (M100) cement / sand: one to three. Before the mortar sets, it is necessary to iron the surface with cement milk. Cement is mixed with water to the state of liquid sour cream. The surface is covered with an even thin layer of the mixture. This is done to increase the water resistance of the concrete base.

Under the logs, brick columns are installed from solid clay ordinary bricks (250x250 mm) on a cement-sand mortar. The distance between the posts is 0.8–1.0 m in the center. 2 layers of roofing material are laid on their surface. Next, the lags are laid. The floorboards of the leaking floor have chamfers along the edges for water drainage. The gap between the boards is 5-6 mm.

Important! Do not use sand-lime bricks, hollow stones, silicate blocks in damp and wet rooms.

Such a floor is made removable in order to be able to dry the floorboard to increase its service life. Boards can move when walking on them, they are often caught with nails, landing nests up to 5 mm deep are prepared under them in the logs, or spacer strips are stuffed on the boards along the edges.

Leaking floor made of removable panels

The floor covering of the steam room and soap room can be made from removable wooden shields. The boards of the shield are laid with a gap on the transverse bars 50x50 mm. The size of the shields is taken for reasons of ease of removal and drying.

The floor structure is the same: compacted soil, compacted Sand and gravel, insulation - expanded clay concrete 150 mm thick. On a cement-sand mortar 10–15 mm thick, a ceramic floor tiles. The floor has a slope that is directed towards the drain tray. Removable shields are installed on the tile so that the lower bars are located along the water drain.

The sequence of works of a non-leaking floor

A non-leaking wooden floor involves a continuous flooring of tongue-and-groove boards along the logs. First determine the location of the support columns. They are placed at a distance of 0.8–1.0 m from each other, measuring the distances in the centers. A concrete pad 100 mm thick and 70 mm wider than the size of the post is prepared for each post.

Solid non-leaking floor over the ground. 1. Ground. 2. Sand cushion. 3. Expanded clay or other bulk heat-insulating material. 4. The foundation of the supporting column. 5. Brick column. 6. Waterproofing. 7. Lags. 8. Floor board

A solid, non-leaking floor must be laid with a slope. The gutter can be placed in one of the logs located close to the wall. 1. Ground. 2. Sand cushion. 3. Expanded clay or other bulk heat-insulating material. 4. Brick column on a concrete base. 5. Gutter. 6. Floor board

Supports for logs are made of concrete or ordinary clay bricks on a cement-sand mortar. The size of the columns is 250x250 mm. The height of the supports must correspond to the upper edge of the embedded beam (columnar foundation), or the top of the strip foundation.

The direction of laying the log should be perpendicular to the direction of water flow. Wooden elements are necessarily isolated from concrete or brick with two layers of waterproofing (roofing material). Expanded clay bedding 15 cm thick is made on the compacted soil.

An uninsulated floor option is shown in the figure. In this case, the boards are supported on one side by a wall lag, on the other - by a lag-gutter. The tray is covered from above with a wooden ladder.

The insulated floor involves logs with cranial bars to which the black floor is attached. Next, a vapor barrier is laid (membrane, polyethylene, polypropylene films), a layer of heat insulator (mineral wool board, polystyrene) is laid on it. On the thermal insulation layer is laid roll waterproofing(roofing material).

Insulated non-leaking floor. 1. Soil, sand cushion and bulk insulation. 2. Brick pillar. 3. Logs and rough wooden floor. 4. Insulation. 5. Logs and finished floor laid with a slope towards the gutter. 6. Gutter. 7. A vapor-permeable membrane is laid on top of the subfloor, waterproofing is laid on top of the thermal insulation layer

There must be a gap of at least 3 cm between the clean floor and the waterproofing. The lag size in this case is 100x170 mm. Skull bar - 40x40 mm. For logs, only a solid beam must be used.

Grooved boards are laid along the lags. Boards are sewn with nails or self-tapping screws to the logs through the tongue. This method of rallying boards is called "parquet". Its advantage is the absence of hats on the surface of the board.

Each board is attached to all the lags. They should fit snugly against each other. The gap between the boards should not exceed 1 mm. For rallying the boards, staples or clamps are used. Nails for fastening are used 2–2.5 times longer than the thickness of the boards. The end of the plank floor does not reach the wall by 10–20 mm. In the future, the gap is covered with a plinth.

Drainage of water from the floor surface occurs due to the slope of the floor in two directions. A hole is made at the drain point and a siphon is installed. The slope of the floor can be done by adjusting the height of the log.