≡× MENU

• Repair
• Repair
• Interior Design
• About everything
• About plumbing

Step-by-step laying of paving slabs. Do-it-yourself paving stone laying is a proven technology. Characteristic qualities of paving slabs

In the process of beautifying the area around country house or cottages, responsible owners cannot do without the organization of paths, areas in front of the house or in the depths of the garden, intended for summer holidays or car parking. The easiest way, of course, is to roll them into asphalt or concrete, but these materials by no means add aesthetics and exclusivity to the site. Therefore, in recent times, most of the owners of estates stop at paving slabs.

It is quite possible, but it will take a lot of time, so it is better to do this work with an assistant. The process should be carried out strictly in stages, and each of the technological steps should be performed carefully and slowly.

Tools and materials for work

Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare everything necessary for this - working equipment and materials.

• Of the tools you will need:

- Shovels - bayonet and shovel for excavation.

— Rake for leveling bulk building materials.

- Wooden stakes or pins from pieces of reinforcement, as well as twine (cord) for marking the territory.

- Rubber mallet for leveling tiles and borders.

- Building level and tape measure.

- Brush or broom for spreading sand over the laid tiles.

— Rammer manual or mechanical, depending on the size of the improved area.

- A long, even pipe or guides for leveling the sand, if the tiles will be laid without a cement-sand mixture.

- A grinder with a disc for cutting stone. You can’t do without it in cases where you have to cut paving blocks.

• From the materials for the work you need to purchase:

A) The paving slab. It can be made using different technologies and from various materials. Accordingly, its characteristics are somewhat different. Some basic properties different types paving slabs– in the attached table:

Performance	Polymer tiles	Concrete vibrocast	Concrete vibropressed
Average density in kg/m³	1650-1800	2320-2400	2200-2400
Mass water absorption	0.15	4-4,5	5,5-6,5
Compressive strength, MPa	17-18	40-50	40
Bending strength, MPa	17-25	6-7	5-5,5
Frost resistance, cycles	Over 500	300-400	200-300
Abrasion, g / sq. cm	0,05-0,1	0,3-0,4	0,5-0,7

In addition, when buying paving slabs, it is necessary to take into account other points that are important for the reliability and aesthetics of future paths and sites. For example, for a site that will not experience heavy loads, it is quite suitable, having a thickness of up to 60 mm. If it is assumed that a car will drive into the area to be paved, then it is necessary to choose paving stones with a thickness of 60 or more millimeters.

At the same time, of course, the owners must decide on the configuration of the tile, its colors, etc. different types and shades of blocks allow laying out mosaic drawings, therefore, if there is a desire not to be limited to simple “gray” paving, then you should think in advance about the pattern and, accordingly, the number of tiles of a particular color and shape. It is possible that the table with some popular models of paving slabs below will help with this:

Tiles in masonry	product name	Dimensions in mm			Weight in kg	Quantity, pcs. in 1 m²	Single tile view
		L	B	H
	3.F.6 "Wave"	240	120	60	3.6	40
	3.F.8 "Wave"	240	120	80	4.66	40
	1.P.4 "Rectangle"	197	97	40	1.9	50
	1.P.6 "Rectangle"	197	97	40	1.9	50
	1.P.8 "Rectangle"	197	97	40	1.9	50
	1.K.6 "Square"	197	197	60	5.43	25
	1.K.6 "Corner"	197	197/97	60	4.05	34

L- length, IN — width, H-height

What else do you need to pay attention to Special attention when choosing a tile other than the above characteristics? There are criteria for evaluating paving blocks that have been practically tested:

- The quality of a tile can be determined without looking at the characteristics by hitting one block against another - if a dull sound is heard, then too much water has been added to the mixture for making paving stones. If the sound upon impact turns out to be ringing, then the tile is made according to the technology and is of high quality.

- If you liked paving stones, which have a very bright color, but its cost is quite low, then, most likely, low-quality coloring pigments were used, which, firstly, are unstable in themselves, and secondly, they significantly reduce the strength qualities of the tile.

It is very important to buy tiles from the same production batch, because otherwise the blocks may differ not only in size and color, but also in the composition of the mixture from which they were made.

Like all Construction Materials, paving slabs must be purchased with a "reserve", based on 15% more than the area of ​​​​the proposed paving. Spare blocks will be needed in case of a random fight, marriage, damage and inevitable waste during cutting.

b) Borders for fencing a paved area.

V) Geotextile, the size of which must exceed the laying area by 200 ÷ 250 mm on each side, so that it is located on the walls of the recesses for laying layers.

G) Materials for laying litterlayers — sand, gravel or crushed stone, cement. Their number is calculated depending on the area to be covered, the number, type and expected thickness of the backfill layers.

e) Paint can bright color. It is convenient for them to do preliminary markup without any effort. The paint can be replaced with lime, which is scattered, marking the edges of the future path or platform.

e) Reinforcing bars for site concreting. It is far from always needed - it will be required only if the base for the masonry needs to be strengthened.

Having prepared everything you need, you can proceed to marking work on the site.

Prices for paving slabs

paving slabs

Carrying out the marking of the territory

The first thing to do is to determine and mark out the area where the platform or path that needs to be paved will be located. For preliminary stage you will need a tape measure and a spray can of bright color paint. Measurements must be started from the house, gate, fence or other building, to which the tiled area will adjoin.

It all starts with marking...

The required distance along the length and width is measured from the building, while marks are made in the form of dots or lines with paint. If the path is covered with tiles, then several more measurements are taken along its direction in order to maintain the specified width. It is recommended that the area parameters be adjusted to the size of the tile, that is, it is best to set dimensions that are multiples of the tile parameters so that it has to be cut as little as possible.

Having made a preliminary marking, which will set the direction or determine the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site, you can proceed to the exact marking with the installation of pegs and pulling the cords.

In any case, all measurements and drawing lines start from one specific reference point, to which the further location of all other landmarks is tied.

Let's assume that the corner of the house is taken as a reference point. In this case, near it and to the width of the track or platform, as well as at their end, pegs are hammered onto which the twine is pulled, limiting the place where further work will be carried out.

When marking the main area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe path or resting place, one must not forget that curbs will have to support the construction of all layers, for which it is also necessary to provide a place on one or both sides of the laid paving slabs.

1 - pegs;

2 - twine;

3 - soil after soil removal;

4 - backfilling with sand.

Preliminary site preparation

The preparation of the site is carried out in different ways, depending on its purpose, since paving slabs are laid out not only for paths and places for recreation, but also for parking lots that require higher strength. Therefore, site preparation and laying of layers may vary.

In any case, whatever the site is intended for, after determining its exact location, go to preparatory work, which consists in digging a relatively shallow pit. Its depth will depend on the materials of the laid layers and their thickness. For work, you will need a bayonet and shovel shovel, as well as a wheelbarrow for transporting cut soil.

The top layer of soil must be removed to a thickness of up to 150 ÷ ​​200 mm, together with the roots of all plants located on this site. This fertile soil should not be taken out of the site - it can be used for arranging

If additional reinforcement is necessary for the construction of the site, then the pit is deepened to 400 ÷ 500 mm.

The site freed from the soil should be fairly flat, it would be nice to walk along it with a hand rammer to compact the top loosened soil. If serious depressions have formed on it during the excavation of the soil, they must be sprinkled with soil and additionally compacted these places, bringing the entire surface to the same level.

These work are carried out in the same way for laying tiles on a wide variety of sites or paths, but further preparation work can vary greatly.

First option

First of all, it is worth considering how the bedding layers are laid for areas that will not be exposed to these are paths, recreation areas or pedestrian areas in front of the house, blind areas around it.

In this case, the following materials are laid in the prepared pit on the soil surface - geotextiles, crushed stone or gravel, sand and a cement-sand mixture. It should be noted that sometimes paving slabs are laid simply on a compacted layer of sand.

Following this scheme, the backfill layers must be laid as follows:

• Geotextiles are laid on the ground, which will prevent vegetation from growing through the laid layers and paving slabs. In addition, it in a certain way performs a kind of reinforcing function.
• Above is a layer of gravel or crushed stone, which is poured with a slight elevation at the center of the site or paths - this must be done so that the water does not linger on the paved surface, but flows towards the curbs. Then the gravel is leveled and rolled, but the shape of the sloping "hill" is preserved. The compacted layer should be 100 ÷ 150 mm.

Compaction of gravel "cushion" with a vibrating plate

• After the gravel is compacted, the site around the entire perimeter or along the future path is fenced with curbs.

The curbs enclosing the site are installed between it and the vertical edge of the soil located along the perimeter of the area (or along the path). Curb blocks are fixed on, laid on a compacted pillow of crushed stone or gravel. The evenness of the curbs is measured according to the level, and if necessary, corrected rubber mallet.

Enclosing blocks can also be placed on top of a sand bank. In any case, the trench for their installation should have such a depth that after laying the tiles, the curb rises above it by the level of the paved area by 50 ÷ 60% of its height.

• Further, gravel is poured layer of sand spread over the surface with a rake, well moistened, and then compacted. In compacted form, the thickness of the sand layer should be from 50 to 100 mm.

You can compact the sand using a manual rammer, a roller or a special rammer - this will depend on the size of the area being prepared.

Ramming cement-sand mixture

• The next step is preparing a sand-cement mixture and spreading it on top of the sand, then moistening and also compacting. In the compacted state, the thickness of this layer should be 20 ÷ 40 mm.

The second preparation option is for heavy loads

This preparation option is carried out if the site is intended for parking. It is clear that for such a purpose a stronger and more reliable base is required so that the surface does not sag over time. This is exactly the option when the pit should have a depth of 400-500 mm.

• In this case, a backfill of sand is made on the prepared and compacted soil. It is moistened and compacted, and when finished, the sand layer should be 100 ÷ 150 mm. To accurately determine the thickness of the layers, their value can be marked in advance on the walls of the pit. To do this, the height is measured with a tape measure and marked with paint from a spray can through a thin tube, around the entire perimeter of the pit.
• In the same way, the next layer is laid, consisting of gravel or an average fraction of crushed stone. It is also leveled and compacted, and in the compacted state should be at least 100 ÷ 150 mm. This "cushion" will serve as a reliable base for the next layer.
• To strengthen the foundation for paving stones, a reinforcing metal grating with cells of 80 × 80 or 100 × 100 mm is laid on the gravel layer. The finished grating can be replaced with metal bars of reinforcement 6 ÷ 8 mm thick, which are laid in the form of a grate and fastened with a wire twist.

• Guide beacons are installed on the grate. They are raised to the height of the screed thickness, which should be about 100 ÷ 120 mm. The beacons are set at the building level and fixed on the slides from the concrete solution.
• While the mortar dries, curbs are installed around the site, and if they are not provided or they are planned to be installed later, then for the screed, at its height, a formwork of bricks or boards is installed.
• After the solution under the beacons has set, concrete can be poured onto the site, consisting of sand and cement, in a ratio of 3: 1. The solution is distributed over the surface, thicker than the beacons, and then, with the help of a rule that is led along the guides, as if on rails, it is leveled to their level. It is advisable to fill the entire site in one go. If you have to postpone the filling of part of the site until tomorrow, then it is recommended to cover the already filled area plastic wrap. The screed is left to set and harden - this period will last from 7 to 12 days. In order for the screed to be more durable, it must be moistened daily with water for 3 ÷ 5 days, starting from the day after pouring, and then covered with plastic wrap.
• When the screed is ready, along its perimeter on concrete mortar curbs are installed. This option is suitable if the enclosing elements have a small height. The solution under the curbs should also grab, and only after that you can move on to the next layer.

• Temporary beacons 20 ÷ 40 mm high are installed on a flat fenced concreted surface - this is the height that the next dry layer, consisting of sand and cement, should have. It is kneaded in advance and poured onto a concrete platform, and then distributed with a shovel and rake, and after that it is leveled by the rule according to the beacons.

Third option - when laying tiles on the sand

This option is most often chosen when, apparently, because it is less laborious than the two described above. In this method, paving is carried out on a sand cushion.

1 - soil;

2 - curbs;

3 - concrete solution;

4 - crushed stone;

5 - sand;

6 - paving stones.

• If this laying option is chosen, then the pit should have a depth of 200 ÷ 250 mm, but along its perimeter or along the edges of the path a trench is dug 100 ÷ 150 mm deeper than the main pit. This trench will be necessary for the installation of curbs - preparations for the main work begin with them.

• Crushed stone of the middle fraction is poured into the trench and compacted, with a layer of 50 mm.
• A thick concrete solution is laid out on top of it.
• Curbs are exposed and leveled on it. Having installed them, you do not need to wait until the concrete grabs - you can immediately proceed to the next operation. The height of the curb should be calculated in such a way that after laying the tiles, it rises above it by 70 ÷ 80 mm.

• At the bottom of the entire pit between the curbs, gravel backfill is made, which is leveled and compacted. In compacted form, the thickness of this layer should be 100 ÷ 120 mm. The crushed stone layer serves as a reinforcing component of the structure, as well as its drainage, which will prevent water from stagnating under the tiles.
• Sand is poured on top of the crushed stone, wetted, compacted, and then its surface is leveled according to the sand installed deep into the beacon guides. The thickness of the sand layer should also be 100 ÷ 120 mm.

It should be noted that the leveling of compacted sand on large areas it is better to do it as the tiles are laid, so as not to do this work twice. When part of the site is paved with paving stones, it will be possible to level the entire surface, and do further work standing on the already paved section of the site, that is. carry out the installation of tiles from yourself.

Paving slabs

It must be said right away that tiles are laid equally on a sand and sand-cement cushion. The main thing is that the surface is well prepared.

Half of the success is a site very carefully prepared for paving

• Before you start laying tiles on a prepared surface, you need to understand the design of the docking of blocks of different shapes and sizes. This "training process" can be carried out on a normal flat surface, such as a workbench. and will consist of two ÷ three types or sizes of tiles, then in order not to get confused, it is best to draw up a diagram that you can keep next to you during work.

• In the event that there is a stop line for the first row on the site, for example, the wall of a house, then you can start laying from it. It will be easier to mount the tiles, starting from the installed curb, as it has flat surfaces and already leveled horizontally.

• The first row of masonry is carried out along a straight line, and it should consist of solid tiles. If figured tiles are laid, then its cut-off parts, which will make the outer rows even, are laid after the installation of paving stones is completed on the main area of ​​​​the site.
• The tile, laid on a sand or combined cushion, is well pressed against its surface and tapped with a rubber mallet.

Continued styling curly tiles: edges - "locks" must match

There is always a small gap between individual paving blocks, from 3 to 5 mm. If you look at quality tiles carefully, it is clear that this gap will be provided by special profile protrusions, which are vertically located on the side faces.

• Next, comes the second row, provided for by the scheme. If a paving stone with different size and curly edges, then the joints between the two rows will become a kind of castle that will not allow one tile to retreat from the other.

The third and subsequent rows are mounted in the same way.

• If there are obstacles in the way of masonry, for example, a canopy pipe or a sewer hatch, whole tiles are installed around them, and laying out the halves should also be left at the end of the work, when the whole tile is laid on the entire site.

Areas around incoming interference are temporarily left - they can be permanently tiled later

• Reaching up to before waiting area under drainpipe(if paving is being done around the basement of the building), first check installation and deepening of the storm water inlet itself with a grate, and connecting a discharge pipe to it. Then this entire structure is covered with a layer of sand with an appropriate seal, and then paving slabs are laid on top.

• Having laid out a certain area, the paving stones are immediately “swept”, that is, the gaps between the individual tiles are filled with a mixture of sifted dry sand and cement (the usual proportion for this is 5:1 or even 6:1). The dry mixture is poured onto the laid tile, and then the entire surface is swept with a brush or broom with a little pressure, thus filling all the gaps between the tiles with this composition.

• When the entire surface is covered, you can begin to fit and install the cutting parts. The remaining empty spaces are carefully measured, then a cut line is marked on the tile, along which a cut is made using a grinder with a set circle on the stone. The remaining empty areas of the site are filled with finished fragments, and then the same backfilling and sweeping is carried out using a dry sand-cement mixture.

• After the laying of paving slabs is completed, it is recommended to carefully compact it by walking over it with a vibrating plate, which will level the entire surface to one level and make the paved area more durable.

• If a path that has turns and bends is lined with paving slabs, then there may be wider gaps between the tiles in the turning areas, but they should not exceed 7 ÷ 8 mm. If such a gap is not enough, then cut out the fragments desired configuration or purchase a special tile that is designed for turns and is made taking into account the required angle.

The process of laying paving slabs is quite laborious, but the result will not only please the eye, but also add comfort while walking along garden plot In any weather. Having made an effort and listening to the recommendations, a caring owner will be quite able to pave the paths and sites of the site on his own, but this will require patience and, of course, desire.

And in conclusion - a video, which, we hope, will also be useful in the initial development of the technology of laying paving slabs:

Video: a small visual lesson on laying paving slabs

Depending on the conditions of further operation, the type of soil and the depth of groundwater, paving stones are used for laying different technologies, the difference of which lies mainly in the structure of the base necessary for preparation.

Necessary materials and tools

To build a paving stone walkway near your home, you will need the following materials:

• river or washed sand of medium or coarse fraction;
• gravel or crushed stone fraction no more than 40 mm;
• cement grade not lower than PC400;
• paving stones with a thickness of at least 60 mm;
• curbstone;
• or other similar material.

The amount of materials depends on the coverage area, the chosen technology for preparing the base and how the paving stones will be laid by hand.

When performing work, you will need next tool:

• and wide capacity for finished building mixtures;
• or manual tamper;
• angle grinder (grinder) with a diamond disc;
• bayonet and shovel;
• building level at least 1 meter long;
• plaster rule;
• rubber and metal hammer;
• mason's trowel and spatula;
• cord and stakes;
• soft brush;
• buckets.

In case of device concrete base, you will also need soft knitting wire and a hook for knitting reinforcement.

Work order

Laying paving stones with your own hands consists of several stages, which include:

• planning and layout on the ground;
• soil development;
• backfilling of the drainage layer;
• arrangement of the base for paving stones;
• stone laying;
• finishing work.

Acquire necessary materials is possible only after the exact plan of the track is drawn up, its area, the length of the sides are determined and the laying technology is selected. Only in this case you will be able to correctly decide how to lay the paving stones with your own hands and curb stone necessary for the arrangement of the backyard territory.

Mapping and marking the track

Marking and excavation.

Before starting work, draw on paper detailed plan site with an indication of all buildings and garden trees. After that, apply a diagram of the future paving stone path on it. In this case, it should be borne in mind that the distance to tree trunks should be at least one and a half meters. This is required so that the growing roots do not damage the bases and do not violate the integrity of the coating in the future. The slope of the surface should be directed away from the buildings.

The width of the track can be arbitrary, but it must be a multiple of the size of the paving stones. This will reduce the need to cut the stone during installation. The recommended width is 0.8-1.2 meters, excluding the size of the curb.

The breakdown of the contours of the pavement paths on the ground is carried out with the help of hammered stakes and a cord stretched over them in accordance with the plan. In this case, the breakdown width is made taking into account the dimensions of the curb stone and adding 8-10 cm on each side.

The height of the stretched cord on both sides should correspond to the upper level of the laid coating and be 5-8 cm above ground level. This can be achieved using the building level.

Soil development works

Geotextile laying.

Before laying paving stones, the first step is to remove the top layer of soil for the construction of a multi-layer base. The depth of the earth tray depends on the selected type of top layer of the base, which can be sand, cement-sand, concrete or gravel.

In each of these cases, the bottom layer is a drainage of compacted rubble or gravel 15 cm thick. A leveling layer of sand 3-5 cm is poured on it and after that an upper bearing layer 10-15 cm thick is laid. The top of the paving stones should be 5-7 cm above ground level. Thus, the depth of the earth tray for garden paths will be 30-35 cm.

The device of the drainage-support layer

Track device with and without geotextiles.

After excavation, the bottom of the trench should be well tamped and a geotextile sheet spread over it. It is able to pass moisture in only one direction. In addition, it will prevent the possible germination of weeds.

A layer of crushed stone or gravel is poured onto the canvas, the thickness of which depends on the height of the curb stone, the top of which will be flush with the garden path. The layer must be well compacted. It is a bearing support that transfers loads to the ground, and, in addition, performs drainage function to remove moisture coming from the surface.

Curb stone installation

Border installation.

For marking, remove the stakes with a stretched cord and install them inside the tray to the width of the pavers. The height of the cord must match the surface of the track. It will also be a guideline for installing a curb stone in height. As a result, the inner top edge of the border should match the position of the cord.

If it is necessary to raise a stone, sand is poured under it, and landing down is carried out by hitting a heavy hammer through a wooden gasket or removing part of the rubble. The correct installation of curbs should be checked by the building level.

Fixing stones in a fixed position is done using concrete mix, which is poured on both sides. After the concrete has hardened (after 72 hours), crushed stone should be added, bringing the total layer thickness to 15 cm.

A layer of sand 3-5 cm thick should be poured over the rubble and spilled with water so that part of the material fills the voids between the stones. If this is not done, then in the future the sand will still settle under the influence of incoming moisture and a subsidence of the base may form. The sand itself is needed in order to fill the voids in the rubble, create a dense monolithic layer and smooth out the sharp edges of the rubble on the surface.

The choice of the type of base for laying and its device

The basis for laying paving stones can be made of:

• clean coarse sand;
• dry cement-sand mixture;
• compacted gravel and cement mortar;
• reinforced concrete.

Laying of paving slabs is carried out using a rubber mallet with checking the necessary slopes with a building level.

The sand base is used in case of small weight loads on the surface. When paving a yard with parking passenger car or pavement on the street, it is recommended to lay paving stones on a cement-sand or crushed stone base.

Reinforced concrete is used in the case of pavement in places of movement of passenger vehicles, in parking lots or in the presence of heaving or unstable soils.

When choosing a sand layer as a base, sand is poured into the space between the installed curbs in such a way that its surface is below the upper edge of the stone by the thickness of the paving stones minus 1 cm.

Cement-sand base

Diagram of a concrete base.

A dry mixture of sand and cement grade PC400 is prepared in a volume ratio of 1:4. For getting quality composition, mixing is recommended to be done in a concrete mixer until a completely homogeneous composition is obtained.

The cement-sand mixture is poured on top of the crushed stone compacted and sprinkled with sand with a layer of such thickness that it does not reach the upper level of the curb, exactly the thickness of the tile. At the same time, the layer thickness should be at least 10 cm and not more than 15 cm. If this condition is not met, then crushed stone should be added, covered with sand again, spilled with water and compacted.

The paving stones are laid on a permanently poured layer of a mixture of cement and sand and settled down for fixation with a rubber mallet.

gravel base

For this type of base, a layer of gravel is poured over the rubble and carefully rammed. The thickness of the layer should provide a distance from the top of the curb to its surface equal to the thickness of the paving stones plus 1-2 cm.

Laying of piece material is carried out on cement-sand mortar prepared in a ratio of 1:4. To ensure better masonry, it is recommended to add either liquid detergent.

1 of 3

Concrete reinforced base

This type of base for laying pavers is the most durable and stable. It is used in case of large weight loads on the surface or with unstable soil structure.

For its device, they lay inside the road tray steel reinforcement, tying all the bars together with wire, or use a finished reinforcing mesh. For correct location reinforcement inside the structure, it is raised above the crushed stone layer by 4-5 cm, placing it on stones or metal supports.

To prepare a concrete mix, cement, sand and crushed stone are mixed in a volume ratio of 1:2.5:4. Concrete is poured at a time with a layer thickness of 10-12 cm so that its surface does not reach the top of the curb by the thickness of the paving stones plus 1 cm.

Laying of piece materials is carried out after 92 hours on a special tile adhesive with careful filling of the joints with the same material.

Seam sealing

Seam sealing.

After finishing the tiling, it is necessary between the stones. This technological operation necessary in order to compact the tiled structure by creating a single monolith.

As a joint filler, use the material on which the paving stones were laid. That is, with a sandy base, sand is used, and with a gravel base, cement mortar is used.

Popular layout methods

Despite the fact that paving stones have a fairly simple geometric shape with a surface in the form of a square or a rectangle, a wide range of colors and various ways its styling allows you to create interesting original patterns. The most popular include:

• classical form, with a parallel arrangement of identical elements;
• "braid", with a parallel and perpendicular layout of stones;
• "herringbone", with laying tiles at an angle of 90 degrees to each other;
• "weaving", in which the alternation of longitudinal and transverse strips of material is performed;
• "chaos", or random mixture, using paving stones different size and flowers laid arbitrarily;
• a radial or circular pattern that creates circular compositions;
• two-color "chess", laid out according to the principle of a chess field.

When doing work with your own hands, you should not strive to create a particularly complex pattern. As a result, the surface of your track may not look too refined, but the quality of the coating will be ensured.

Paving slabs in the country or in the courtyard of a country house are capable of performing not only decorative function but also utilitarian. In order for it to look beautiful and withstand the load on it without problems, it must be correctly laid.

Many homeowners prefer to have hired professionals take care of the process, believing that they will perform all the necessary operations as well as possible. But some people do not trust hired workers, and prefer to do all the important manipulations on their own.

How possible is it to lay paving slabs with your own hands? It is quite possible to do this, the main thing is to have step-by-step instructions at hand. It describes in detail the sequence of all upcoming operations and the order in which they are performed.

Laying the yard with paving slabs: preparation

Before starting work, you need to carefully consider them and draw up a plan. This will guarantee a long and reliable service life of the manufactured coating. Laying out the entire yard with tiles is not very rational and cost-effective.

But paths are necessary on any site - it can be quite difficult to do without them. Therefore, it is necessary to calculate the required number of tracks, their size and configuration, so that they connect the residential building with various outbuildings and other buildings.

Then, in any weather, the homeowner and his household will move along neat clean paths. Yes, and green spaces will suffer much less.

Why paving slabs? This material is increasingly being used both in industrial construction and in private.

The benefits of such pavement obvious. Installation work is not particularly difficult. The tile does not "float" during the heat and does not burst from severe frost.

She looks beautiful and is not capricious in care. The tiled area passes moisture well, which is useful for both soil and plants.

Step by step instructions for laying tiles

Important notes that will help you lay the tiles correctly

Do not start work immediately after the rain, especially during it. The soil and pillow should be well dried out. In order for the tile not to start to spread after a while, the humidity indicators should be minimal.

Laying paving slabs: work progress

To carry out the work you will need - cement, curb, sand and tiles directly. The required tools are pegs, a rule, a rammer, a broom, a nylon thread, a rubber mallet, a trowel and a level.

We start with marking the site, or rather, with determining the contour of the future path.

The site is marked with wooden pegs, which are connected with a nylon cord. It must be correctly tensioned exactly to the level, as it will become a guide when laying tiles.

To properly equip the base, you will have to cut and remove a layer of turf, then level the resulting surface, moisten and compact with a special rammer.

• If the soil is dense enough, then often it does not need such manipulations. Plant roots and stones found in the ground should be removed.
• If the soil is not removed, then the path will be, as it were, slightly raised above the surface of the site. The consequence of this may be its washing away with rain or melt water.
• The resulting compacted bed is covered with gravel or crushed stone 15-20 cm high.
• If the path is intended for the movement of cars, then this figure should be increased to 40 cm. (Geotextiles can be laid under and on gravel).
• For leveling, sand is poured on top - its thickness should be approximately 2 cm.

Border for paving slabs

What is a border for? Its purpose is to prevent the tiles from spreading and highlight the path. Is it mandatory to use it?

No, often when laying out the tracks with tiles they do without additional finishing. The base under the curb must be carefully leveled. It is best to place it on a special concrete lock. For paving slabs in a private area, it is quite possible to use a plastic border.

Substrate preparation: options for laying paving slabs

The bases for paving slabs can be different - there are three types in total. Depending on the type of base chosen, the way the tiles are laid also changes.

On the sand. The space between stretched cords or curbs is covered with sand. The thickness of such a pillow should be 5-6 cm. The sand is well soaked and left to dry, after which it is leveled and compacted. The tile is placed on slightly damp sand (never wet).

On concrete. There can be two options here: when the concrete base is already available, and its device specifically as a substrate for tiles. This method is considered not very rational.

The point is that the cement monolith retains water (does not let it through). It accumulates between the tile and the base - when severe frost freezes, causing deformation of the track.

On a cement-sand pillow. On the prepared base (with the soil removed, leveled and rammed), another sand layer of 3-4 cm is poured, a reinforcing mesh is placed on it. Next, a mixture of cement and sand is placed on it in a ratio of four to one.

Technology of laying paving slabs

Tiles should start to be placed from the very bottom point in the upward direction. Competent masonry should be carried out in a way “from oneself”.

In other words, while doing the work, the specialist moves along the already laid path so as not to endanger the prepared base. If a circular tile installation method is used, then activities begin in the center of the pattern.

Individual tile elements should be placed diagonally, not in even stripes. So it will be easier to align them in the process. First, a rope is pulled along the width of the future path, along which the initial row of material will be aligned. Every two or three times the correctness of the horizontal is verified by the level.

The tiled element is placed in the place prepared for it, and brought to the correct position by soft tapping of the hammer.

If necessary, sand can be poured under it. A gap of 2-3 mm left between the tiles is usually quite enough for moisture to escape. In order for the gap to have one value over the entire distance, special crosses can be used. But in practice, they usually do without them.

Laying turnkey tiles: grouting

In order for a do-it-yourself path to be beautiful and durable, you will have to take care of proper processing seams. They are usually filled in two passes.

First, dry sifted sand is applied to the freshly made path. Using a brush or broom, it is leveled over the surface and swept into the seams.

The next layer that should be poured onto the track is a sand-cement mixture or sand. He is treated in the same way as the first.

Then, with a sprayer or with the help of other improvised means, the path is moistened quite intensively - until puddles appear. If there is a border, then the distance between it and the tile is covered with a mixture too. You can purchase a mixture for factory-made seams.

In order for the paving slab track to serve for a long time, you need to know how to properly care for it. Such a coating does not need any special procedures: it should be regularly swept and washed occasionally.

Then she will retain her original appearance and remain elegant for as long as possible. In winter, you should protect it from damage by not using rough metal products - shovels, ice axes and crowbars.

Paving slabs in the courtyard of a private house or in the country house perform two functions - aesthetic and utilitarian. The key to the quality implementation of both is correct styling paving slabs.

Many trust this to professionals, hoping that they know their business. Is that so? Will the hired worker always perform the installation better than the owner himself?

The main thing is to know how to lay paving slabs with your own hands.

It will be a good help step-by-step instruction, in which, in addition to the order of work, all the nuances of this rather simple and exciting process. Where the result is shown with the first laid tile.

Preparation for laying paving slabs

Planning is a guarantee that a homemade track will not let you down for a long time.

• Plot layout. Few people dare to lay out the entire space on the site with tiles, just as it is difficult to do without paths, at least from the gate to the cottage and outbuildings. Perfect option- think over the paths to the house and from it to the main buildings on the site. So the lawn is preserved, and in the rain it is not necessary to knead the dirt. In addition, you do not have to uproot trees and other perennial plantings.

• Material selection. Paving slabs are gradually gaining ground from other types of paving. The main advantages: ease of operation, the ability to dismantle the coating, does not “float” like asphalt from heating, does not burst from the cold (frost-resistant), and is not demanding in care. The path, lined with paving slabs, allows moisture to pass through, thereby not harming the soil and soil (environmentally friendly).

• Tile. When choosing a tile, you need to know that, according to the manufacturing method, it can be vibrocast (possibly independent production) and vibropressed (made in industrial environment). Varies in color, thickness and shape. Requires a device with a different composition of the base. All these factors determine the technology of laying paving slabs.

Tiled paths and grounds - parameters

Comparative analysis of tiled pavement is provided in the table

The type of soil also affects the choice of base for paving slabs. Moving ground requires a concrete base, even under footpath, and dense allows you to get by with a sand-cement cushion and under the car.

Laying paving slabs with your own hands - step by step instructions

General tips and rules on how to lay paving slabs correctly:

• provide drains for water drainage. If paving slabs are laid on sand, then water will go into the gaps between the tiles, and if on a concrete base, then a transverse, longitudinal or transverse-longitudinal slope is required. Thus, water, rain or melt, will not collect between concrete and tiles. Therefore, the possibility of swelling of the track sections is excluded. The optimal slope of paving slabs is 1 cm per 1 meter. Please note: the gap for water drainage must be placed between the curb and the tile sheet;

• correlate the size of the tile with the dimensions allotted for the track. The wider the track, the larger the tiled elements should be (subjective opinion), or vice versa, from small tiles. It would seem that large tiles will make the layout faster and easier, but in fact, it may turn out differently. The large dimensions of the tile are directly reflected in the mass, the weight of paving slabs 40x40 cm is 15-16 kg (depending on thickness). As a result, such plates are difficult to lift, move, level. While adjusting the height, you will have to lift the weight several times to add sand;

• lay (bring) communications before laying paving slabs. Otherwise, it will need to be dismantled and reassembled. If there is no need for communications yet, then conditions can be created for their installation later. To do this, under the track in the most likely places for the passage of future communications, it is recommended to lay plastic pipes diameter 50 mm;

• installation of paving slabs is not carried out during rain or immediately after precipitation. The soil and the laid pillow should dry out. Optimal Humidity grounds are a guarantee that the tile will not spread over time;

• the base for laying paving slabs must be perfectly flat. The sand used for backfilling should not contain clay or other impurities;

• choose optimal size tracks. It is reasonable to select the width of the track, based on the size of the paving slab, plus a value equal to the sum of the gaps between it. Thus, it will be possible to avoid time-consuming and not always beautiful trimming of tiles. The same applies to patterned layout. However, this approach is only possible when laying tiles with the correct geometry. Use of imitation natural stone, circular pattern, complex geometry does not always make it possible to do without cutting. In this case, you need to consider the exact location of individual whole and trimmed elements.

Stage 1 - Layout of paving slabs - schemes, patterns, drawings

For creating beautiful path from the tile you need to make the right sketch. A drawing or scheme for laying paving slabs will help not only visualize the project, but also calculate the required amount of material.

The choice of laying scheme is influenced by the shape (geometry) of the tiles (see photo) and the planned layout design.

Significant room for maneuver creates the use of paving slabs rectangular shape, co standard sizes 100x200 mm, type "paving stone" or "brick". They provide the most styling options.

Traditional options for laying paving slabs:

1. Geometric styling. It can be represented by colored canvases or illusions.

By playing with colors and laying out tiles, you can create unique design garden paths. Examples in the photo (rhombus, square, circle, new and old city, parquet, checkerboard, fan, coil, butterfly, wedge sheet, hexagon or honeycomb).

2. Illusions 3D - paving slabs with 3D effect. Laying tiles with a pattern that creates a three-dimensional stereoscopic (three-dimensional) image is a tricky technology of optical illusion.

An example of which is provided below, has no scheme in the classical sense. It involves laying out tiles in an artistic mess. If the tile is monophonic, then the size of the tiles varies when laying out, if it is multi-colored - the colors.

4. Artistic layout of paving slabs, the photo of which is provided below, gives an idea of ​​the diversity various options styling. The complexity of the drawing is determined by the skill or perseverance of the master.

Stage 2 - Preparation of material and tools for laying paving slabs

For work you will need: sand, cement, tile, curb. Of the tool is useful: nylon thread, pegs, rubber hammer, long rule, level, rammer, trowel, broom. In case of trimming, you need a grinder with a disc for cutting concrete. Knee pads are a handy thing, because the work takes a lot of time with an emphasis on these parts of the body.

Stage 3 - Marking for laying paving slabs

The marking of the site is to determine the contour of the future track. The place along the entire perimeter is indicated by pegs, between which a nylon thread is stretched. Due to the fact that it serves as a guide for laying out tiles, it must be pulled strictly according to the level.

Stage 4 - preparation of the base for paving slabs

To build the base, you need to remove the top layer of turf, level the bed, pour it with water and compact it with a tamper. Dense soil does not need such work. There are stones, roots of trees and shrubs in the soil - all this should be removed.

Note. You can leave the soil, but then the path will be much higher than the rest of the cover on the site, which can lead to it being washed away by melt or rain water.

The resulting bed is covered with a drainage bearing layer, for example, crushed stone or gravel 150-200 mm high. For car track(platforms) layer thickness increases to 400 mm. Many people lay geotextiles under gravel and on it to eliminate the possibility of erosion of the pillow. groundwater. 20 mm is poured on top of the crushed stone. sand to level the base.

Stage 5 - Technology of laying paving slabs

Step-by-step instruction

1. Installing a curb for paving slabs or a curb

The purpose of the curb stone is to mark the path and protect the tile from spreading. But there are examples of laying paving slabs without a border.

Installation of a border is made on the leveled basis. For greater reliability, it is laid on a concrete base (concrete castle).

You can install a plastic border for tiles

The border can be installed flush with the tile or protrude by a few cm. It is recommended to lay the tile just above the curb (border) by 5 mm, this is a shrinkage gap.

There are three types of foundation:

Laying paving slabs on the sand.

In this case, the distance between the curbs (or stretched thread in their absence) is filled with sand. The height of the sand layer is 50-60 mm. Before work, the sand is poured with water using a sprayer and left to dry a little. Then it is leveled and rammed. The display is made on wet, but not wet sand.

.

On the base prepared at the fifth stage, the second layer of sand (30-40 mm) is laid, on which the reinforcing mesh is laid. From above, the mesh is covered with a mixture of sand and cement in a ratio of 1: 4.

Laying paving slabs on a concrete base.

The composition of the "pie" is shown in the diagram.

Note. Laying tiles on concrete the best option. This is due to the fact that the concrete base does not allow moisture to pass through. Water is trapped between concrete and tiles and sub-zero temperatures leads to deformation of the track.

3. Laying tiles

Simple rules for high-quality and efficient work.

How to properly lay paving slabs:

• the tile is laid out from the bottom point upwards;

• masonry is carried out by the method from oneself. That is, when performing work, the master moves along the already laid path so as not to damage the compacted and leveled base;

• installation of tiles in a circular way starts from the center of the pattern.

• the beginning of the montage falls on the optically visible boundary, i.e. to the place where the eye first falls: Entrance door, porch, veranda, gazebo, etc.

• tiles are not laid out in even rows, but diagonally. This makes it easier to align horizontally.

Starting laying, the first step is to stretch the cord along the width of the track, and the first row of tiles is leveled along it. The horizontal should be checked with a level every 2-3 rows.

"Landing" paving slabs The tile fits into the place intended for it and is installed precisely by easy tapping it with a rubber mallet. If the tile falls under it, sand or a mixture is poured.

The gap between paving slabs is usually 2-3 mm (enough for water to escape). The exact gaps are maintained with the help of crosses (but, this is a theory, it does not occur in practice).

Some manufacturers have provided for the presence of limiters (remote locks) on the tiles, allowing installation without the use of accessories on same distance from each other.

The material was prepared for the site www.site

Appeared new technology- paving slabs glowing in the dark. Installing such a tile will allow you to mark the boundaries and secure movement along the path in dark time days. Luminous paint is applied over the tiles and is absolutely safe for users and the soil.

Another option for decorative lighting of the path is LED paving slabs. In this case, during the laying process, brick blocks are mounted - LED lights powered by electricity or solar panels.

Stage 6 - Grouting paving slabs

In addition to understanding how to lay paving slabs, you need to know how to seal the seams. Filling the joints between paving slabs is carried out in two approaches. To begin with, a thin layer of clean, sifted, dry sand is poured onto the laid tile. Using a broom or brush, the backfill is scattered between the seams. Then a layer of sand is poured onto the track (if the base is sandy) or a sand-cement mixture in a ratio of 1: 1 (for a cement-sand or concrete base) and the seams are also filled with a broom (spill).

You can purchase a ready-made dry mix for filling the joints of paving slabs: M150 (120 rubles / 25 kg) and Quick-mix PFN (1650 rubles / 25 kg).

At the end of the work, the path is watered with water using a sprayer. Watering is carried out until puddles form on the path.

Important. The distance between the curb and the tile is not concreted, and is also covered with a dry mix.

Note. Professionals advise vibrocompaction of seams with a special board, but users say that this is unnecessary in private construction.

Paving slab care

It is not enough to know how to lay paving slabs, you also need to provide her with constant care so that she lasts the billing period. Simple maintenance consists of periodically sweeping and washing the paving slab path (in order to colored tiles remained just as beautiful. IN winter time metal shovels should not be used for snow removal, but crowbars, ice axes should not be used for icing, and the track should also be sprinkled with anti-ice compounds containing salt.

Water repellent for paving slabs

The porous structure of concrete acts like a sponge - it absorbs water. Hygroscopicity plays its detrimental role in winter, when water penetrates into the pores of concrete, freezes, expands and destroys the structure of the concrete base. As a result, the appearance of microcracks, dents, shells, discoloration.

To prevent this, protective impregnations are used - water repellents for paving slabs.

Water-repellent compositions (materials, additives, liquids) do not protect the tile from fading in the sun and abrasion, but only impregnate the surface of the concrete and thereby prevent “soaking” with water (they provide a water-repellent property).