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When trees are cut. How to prune fruit trees in the garden - types and diagrams

Recently, in a hardware store, I met my gardener friend, Sergei Ivanovich Stepashin. I talked to him. He bought garden pitch and two new pruning shears. A woman stood nearby and asked: “Why are you going to the garden so early? There is snow up to the waist!” Sergei Ivanovich answers her that it is time to do pruning, otherwise the juices in the trees will wake up.

But the woman again objected in disbelief: “What juices? Apple trees will bloom only in May, there is still a lot of time before that, you will have time. It's hard to cut in the snow. I come to the garden in mid-April, so there are still snowdrifts behind the house.”

Expressing her concern about the inconvenience associated with the snow, the woman was surprised that Sergei Ivanovich chose the most expensive tool. “They would take that secateurs over there, cheaper.What's the difference than to cut the branches? It’s good that my apple trees are young, they don’t need to be cut at all.”

And then an experienced gardener read a “lecture” to a talkative customer. All advice was very valuable, and at my request, he allowed them to be published.

Sergey Ivanovich is an experienced gardener. Everyone goes to him for advice, because in any year he is with the harvest. pruning fruit crops he considers very important. It ensures the health of the tree and good, stable yields. There are three main conditions that must be met.

1. Let's start with the timing. Pruning is carried out in late winter or early spring, when the threat of frost with temperatures below -15C has passed (in Central Russia, usually from late February to mid-late April). Therefore, dear gardeners, if you come to the garden only by mid-April, then this deadline for cutting!

Apple trees bloom really late and do not show signs of life for a long time. But hidden processes take place in them, including sap flow. If pruning is carried out during this period, then the wounds do not dry out for a long time and the branches flow through them with juice. Stone fruit cultures awaken much earlier, they must be cut first.

2. Pruning fruit trees should be carried out from the first year after planting. Young apple trees also need pruning, like any other. You can not wait until the crown is overgrown and it will have to be thinned out a lot. This is no longer a pruning, but an execution for a tree. Proper pruning involves the formation of the crown from the "childhood" age, that is, the gradual, annual removal of unwanted branches and shortening, changing the shape of the selected skeletal branches.

3. You need to trim only with a sharp tool. You should be aware that not every tool is suitable for trimming. Cheap secateurs and loppers are made of soft metal that quickly becomes dull and burrs. Their blades severely injure tissue. good tool Made from high quality steel that holds a sharp edge very well. This pruner also lasts much longer. Naturally, their price is higher.

Why form a crown

When forming the crown, special attention is paid to the choice of future skeletal branches. They must meet the following requirements: departure angle - 40-60 degrees; in one tier - no more than three branches.

Compliance with the departure angles is necessary so that in the future the tree, without installing supports, holds a crop of up to 500 kg. At acute angles of departure, the connection between the branch and the trunk is weak, and the stress “to tear” is quite large. In especially fruitful years, even large branches break. Sometimes the tree breaks in half.

Branches with an acute angle of departure are either cut out or bent back by installing spacers (Fig. 2.).

It is also necessary to observe the condition that there should be no more than three branches in one tier. Otherwise, the crown thickens, and in low light, the yield decreases, the taste of fruits deteriorates, shoots ripen worse and diseases begin to develop.

Pruning young seedlings

Pruning begins in the first year after planting. seedlings of spring and autumn planting cut the same way. The meaning of this pruning is to balance the roots damaged during digging and the aerial part. Sometimes this is done in the nursery.

Annual seedlings without branching, they are cut at a height of 80-100 cm above the soil level (Fig. 1, a). This stimulates the formation of lateral shoots from which skeletal branches will be formed.

In a branched seedling 1-2 years old, all side branches are removed at a height of 60-70 cm (Fig. 1, b). Often, gardeners feel sorry for the seedling, believing that "he still has nothing to cut." But such pruning forms the stem of the future tree. All branches below 60 cm are simply not needed. Below, they are poorly lit and produce a small crop. Over time, they will still have to be trimmed, but the wounds will be larger.

Branches located above 70 cm are shortened by 1/3-1/4 part. Usually this is done over the 3-5th kidney, counting from the base of the shoot (see Fig. 1, c). At the same time, the principle of subordination of branches is observed. The central shoot (leader, or conductor) should be 15-20 cm higher than the side branches, and the shoots located higher along the stem should be shorter than those below. Usually, a two-year-old seedling has 3-4 lateral branches that are shorter than the conductor. In the case when all branches are developed approximately equally and the central shoot is not the leader in growth, a strong pruning of the side branches is carried out in order to achieve the principle of subordination of tiers. Sometimes a seedling has duplicate shoots (if two adjacent buds have developed on the stem). Leave one, the most well-located branch, and the second is cut into a ring.

Principles of crown formation. The angle of origin of the skeletal branches is 40-60 degrees; in one tier - no more than three branches; the leader should be higher than the side branches; the branches of the upper tiers should be shorter than the lower tiers.

After the winter, it may turn out that the leader is broken or very cold. In this case, it is replaced by the most powerful, closely spaced shoot, tying it vertically to the stump left by the conductor, or to a peg stuck in the ground.

The same pruning rules are followed for a three-year-old tree and older. Moreover, the principle of subordination of branches is also observed for lateral skeletal branches. Overgrowing branches on them should be shorter than the side conductor. Figuratively speaking, the principle of subordination can be represented as a kind of “rounded triangle”, into which the tree itself must fit after the formation of the crown and its skeletal branches (Fig. 3).

IN further pruning a young tree is carried out in order to create a light, sparse crown. This should be done not only in spring, but also in summer. For example, already in the summer you can see which shoots grow inside the crown. They are removed immediately while they are still green. Young shoots growing down, pinch. Duplicate shoots are cut or transferred to another position using stretch marks. ” green pruning” is the most forgiving form of pruning.

You can find this article in the newspaper "Magic Garden" of 2011 No. 6.

Required event. Its goal is to improve health, direct its growth in the right direction and achieve abundant fruiting. Pruning in no way contradicts, but quite the contrary - it keeps pace with the laws of nature, relying on them. In fact, this is an imitation of natural processes, which is one of the measures for caring for cultivated garden trees and preventing them from running wild.

Thanks to competent pruning, each branch of the tree receives the necessary amount of light and its own space, without interfering with others. Pruning is also used as a therapeutic measure for various fractures due to natural processes.

Finally, by cutting off old dead branches, you free the tree from excess load and allow it to direct its efforts to growth and development, and you save yourself from the danger of breaking off dry branches that can collapse at the most inopportune time and place.

In this article, we will look at the types of pruning fruit trees, find out when it is better to prune them - in spring or autumn, summer or winter, and also study a video for beginners.

Pruning a garden is a procedure that has great importance for plant health and crop quality. It regulates the metabolic processes within the tree, redistributing vital resources and directing them to the required parts of the tree.

Together with other agricultural methods pruning balances all parts of the tree:

• roots;
• wood;
• leaves;
• fruit.

In the course of existence, the fruit tree is constantly changing, growing at different speeds in different time, directing forces:

• to strengthen the root system;
• to increase green mass;
• for intensive growth;
• for flowering and fruiting;
• to protect against disease;
• to prepare for a period of calm and so on.

His age, physical condition, state of health is changing. In this regard, the goals for which “surgical intervention” is done are different, and the type of trimming depends on them.

Based on the intended goals, share six types of pruning:

1. - delays aging and prolongs life.
2. Formative- models appearance crowns.
3. Regulatory- regulates fruiting.
4. Restorative- brings parts of the plant into tone.
5. Sanitary- heals the tree and relieves excess weight.
6. supportive- refreshes and rewards with new forces.

Let's take a closer look at each type.

Anti-aging

After the tree begins to bear fruit, after 2-3 years it is necessary shorten too long branches, which will “wake up” adnexal buds, limit the growth of branches, form a crown, rid the plant of dead fragments and give it the opportunity to improve. This measure is also applied if the flowering activity has decreased.

In addition, such an event will significantly improve the aesthetic appearance of the tree. Rejuvenating pruning involves the removal of thickening and hanging branches and excess top shoots, skeletal and semi-skeletal branches are made from located in a good place. Such a procedure can be carried out both in autumn and at the end of winter and at the beginning of spring approximately every three years.

Formative

With the help of forming pruning, it simulates the appearance of a tree, the load on its skeletal part, and allows the plant to develop evenly.

Did you know? It is curious that if the procedure is carried out in February, the branches will go into intensive growth, while the Marchcropping will slow down this process.

Formative pruning goals:

• acceleration of the onset of flowering;
• increase in productivity;
• well-groomed appearance;
• ensuring uniform access of the sun to the crown;
• increased endurance;
• ease of access to the branches for harvesting and care.

Carry out a formative pruning young tree, 3-5 years after its planting.

Formative pruning is not a one-time event, using this technique for several years the crown of the tree is gradually formed by evenly placing well-lit branches in it throughout the skeletal part of the tree. An adult tree that has lost a skeletal branch due to breakage, aging or death, or acquired one, may also need it.

Regulatory

With adjustable trim the already formed crown is preserved in the desired form, branches are provided with uniform lighting, excess young shoots are removed. With its help, the gardener maintains a balance of growth and fruit yield and creates conditions for wood renewal and growth intensity.

It is held from the end of February to April, and also from August to September, it is actively used in industrial gardens.

Restorative

If the plant is damaged for some reason, give it back the opportunity further development recovery pruning will help. With her help form a crown of acceptable size, achieve a balance of its constituent parts, control the number of growing shoots and improve illumination. After such an intervention, fullness returns to the crown, it becomes able to grow and bear fruit.

During the event, diseased and broken branches are removed. It is also used:

• to trees injured mechanically or frostbitten;
• if tree for a long time not cut off and now has a rather neglected look;
• when excessive growth of the crown has occurred, interfering with neighboring plants and making harvesting and necessary care difficult;
• if it has become difficult for light to break through the dense branches of the crown and the lower branches are deficient sunlight.

Sanitary

Sanitary pruning is carried out as planned treatment and as an ambulance. Like most medical measures, it should be carried out as needed when the plant is sick, has acquired dried or broken branches, or frostbitten them.

This is done at any time of the year, the only obstacle is frost, and best time the beginning of summer is considered when the tree woke up. Regular and annual sanitary pruning will improve the health of the tree, give it a decent appearance, thinning the crown, and prevent infectious and fungal infections.

It should be remembered that an overly radical procedure will entail consequences in the form of a too thickened crown. You should also consider the age of the tree and its size.

supportive

held regularly during the life of the plants. It helps to support their growth and health, as well as fruiting, pursuing the following goals:

• do not let out growing branches beyond the boundaries of the formed crown;
• keep the crown in a state of permeability to the sun;
• avoid exposure of large branches;
• rid the skeletal branches of the young shoots that annoy them;
• maintain the health and tone of the tree for active growth and stable fruiting.

Determining factors and timing of pruning

The main load on the gardener falls at a time when the frost has already passed, but has not yet begun, that is, from the end of February and throughout almost the entire spring. During this period, there is no longer any need to be afraid that frost will damage the freshly cut plant, and at the same time it will not lose nutrients along with the cut parts.

In some cases, the possibility of pruning up to the flowering period is allowed.

Did you know? In the city of Piedmont, Italy, an unusual double tree grows. It turned out from, on the top of which a cherry seed that had been brought in knows how sprouted. Developing, the cherry pierced through the trunk of the mulberry, and now they are a single whole, each remaining itself.

Early spring is the time when fruit trees are pruned. The first "swallows" in this matter are, and indeed pome fruits. Stones start a little later.

The determining factors for a particular type of trimming are:

• tree species;
• condition of fruit trees.

If the plant is planted in autumn, it must be corrected before the juices wake up. This applies to both pome and stone fruit crops. If the frosts have severely damaged the branches, it makes sense to wait until the time when the damage is clearly marked.

apple trees- the most stable crops, which are less affected by adverse conditions. It is with them that the work on recovery, rejuvenation and correction begins, and ends with them.

The branches of apple trees are prone to freezing at the ends even in frosts, it is better to clean this kind of damage closer to mid-May.

With cherries, cherries and plums, the principle approach is as follows:

• strong cherries or sweet cherries should be pruned after harvest;
• if the cherry is weak, circumcision in winter will help - this will stimulate the growth of new shoots in the spring;
• it is recommended to prune the plum during the harvesting process, or in the middle or end of June.

Pinching shoots in summer time to save the plant strength for more important things. autumn pruning fruit trees - sanitary.

Important! In the event that the branchesbroke under the weight of snow, ortrunk split during a snowstorm, pruning should be done as soon as possible.

spring

You can start pruning fruit trees in the spring after the main frosts subside, but it will be right if the gardener waits for the time when is the sap flow going to start.

This time is considered the most suitable, since the tissues of the plant during this period are already prepared for the processes that are about to begin to occur in them. The cut in such conditions will heal as quickly as possible - of course, if it is done correctly and processed properly. If a formative procedure is required, it may well be waited for, or even dispensed with in another year.

So, the basic rules that every gardener should follow:

• the earliest when you can start cutting is the time when the main frosts are gone, but it is better to wait until the moment you are ready for the juices to start moving;
• the cut is made above the eye growing from the crown in the outward direction, making it smooth and even from the inside to the outside.
• the skeletal branches with which the trunk continues remain longer;
• weak trees are cut short, leaving two or three eyes, on strong trees eight or more eyes remain.

In summer

The concept of " summer pruning"includes several techniques carried out with green shoots that have not had time to acquire bark, in order to thin the crown for access to sunlight:

• pinching- in order for shoots to grow from the awakened buds, which will have time to prepare for wintering;
• tweezing- for the development of a full-fledged formation of wood in the uterine branch, which will help accelerate and improve fruiting;
• breakout- to remove young shoots of no value for the crown, it is easily tolerated and does not need to be processed;
• fracture- a rarely carried out technique in order to give the growing branches the required direction;
• pruning- to obtain a flower bud near the beginning of the shoot already in the year when it began to grow.

Thus, summer pruning of fruit trees facilitates work in spring and autumn, helps to save nutrients inside the plants and improves fruiting.

Did you know? Designers have learned how to form various objects, such as furniture, from a living growing tree using various agricultural techniques, including pruning.

autumn

Autumn pruning is carried out mainly for sanitary purposes; or, if it is planned to rejuvenate the tree in the spring, protective links are left. This technique is also good at this time of the year for a very. Trimming trees in the fall begins then, when the leaves come.

If you cut off a one-year-old shoot, frost can damage not only the place where the cut is located, but also a decent area around, and this definitely cannot be called successful healing. It will be difficult for such a tree during wintering, which will have a bad effect on the kidneys in the spring. The risk is higher the further north the garden is located.

However, if the need arose for sanitary pruning, the above considerations are losing their relevance, vital indications are important here, as they say in medicine. Those affected by the disease must be treated so that the infection does not spread further, and even more so does not pass to neighboring plants. In such cases, the amputated affected parts must be burned.

Fruit trees do not respond well to autumn pruning, and some may die or get very sick after it - for example, plum, cherry or pear. It will also not affect young seedlings in the best way.

in winter

Winter pruning is more appropriate in southern regions where frost is rare and winters are mild. She is good because:

• plants get less stress, as they are in hibernation;
• the cuts made are more accurate and of high quality;
• it helps that there are no leaves at all, and all the branches are very clearly visible.

The procedure is performed on warm winter days, when it is not lower than -5-7 ° C outside - when it is colder, the wood becomes especially fragile.

When a tree is damaged due to strong winds, icing of branches or excessive snow weight, and, even more so, threatens to further split or break, the gardener does not have to question whether it can be cut. You need to cut it, you just need to wait for the first opportunity, namely, the decrease or absence of frost.

What to do after pruning

Any circumcision leaves a wound surface on itself, from which moisture evaporates. It is also, in fact, an open gate for all kinds of infections. Small sections can heal on their own, while large areas, from 2.5 cm in diameter, need to be processed.

Important! In young peach and apricot, when planting and pruning, even the tiniest wounds need to be lubricated until the tree gets stronger and grows. In an adult apricot and peach, small sections can no longer be processed.

No matter how sharp the saw or hacksaw that was cut, in any case, the surface after it will not be smooth, so it needs to be cleaned with a sharp garden knife. Then - handle special means intended for wound healing; for example, or oil-based paint.

You can not use any other paints, in addition to oil, - the solvents that make up their composition will have a detrimental effect on the tree, penetrating into its tissues through a fresh cut. To apply the product, use a spatula, brush or cut knot.

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Tree pruning is the key to any gardener's success. Fruit trees need constant and careful care. Only in this case they will give a regular and abundant harvest. Surely, many gardeners have encountered such a phenomenon that a neighbor in the dacha collects more fruits from one plant than you do from the entire plot. This suggests that your neighbor is taking proper care of his trees, which you, unfortunately, neglect. In this article, you will learn why pruning fruit trees is needed and how to do it correctly.

Purpose of tree pruning

This procedure is carried out in order to prolong the life of plants, stimulate their growth and obtain a large yield. After all, fruit trees personal plot planted for the purpose of producing fruit. Besides, Pruning your garden helps protect your trees from pests and possible diseases.

In general, plants need comprehensive care, one pruning will not be enough to get a bountiful harvest. It is necessary to fertilize, water and spray the garden. And then your fruit trees will be beautiful, healthy and, most importantly, fruitful.

What tree pruning plays big role in obtaining a harvest does not mean at all that this event should be carried out when it pleases. Exist certain deadlines and methods of carrying out this procedure. Failure to follow these rules will have the opposite effect on the trees and you risk instead blooming garden receive a PIECE OF SCANTED PLANTS.

Trimming types

By removing extra branches from the crown of a tree, you greatly slow down its growth. Experienced gardeners have long noticed such a feature, the larger the tree, the smaller its fruits. The following types of plant pruning are currently practiced:

crown forming

This is done to obtain a bountiful harvest by forming the correct crown of the fruit tree. Typically, such pruning is carried out in the period from 2 to 4 years of the life of a seedling in your area.

Branches are pruned in such a way that stronger shoots form a reliable frame that protects weaker and thinner branches. This should be done in such a way that the branches inside the frame receive a sufficient amount of sunlight. It has been noticed that trees with a properly processed crown begin to bear fruit earlier and give more yield..

Regulating fruiting

It is from this procedure that the regularity of the harvest depends. The essence of such pruning is as follows: depending on the variety of the seedling, the shoots are shortened by a certain number of buds. This number can vary from 3 to 12.

Restorative

It consists in removing old, broken or diseased branches.

Anti-aging

This type of pruning is relevant only for mature trees. Old branches are removed or shortened, only young shoots remain. It is recommended to carry out such a procedure approximately once every four years.

Trimming methods

Novice amateur gardeners are concerned about the question of how to properly prune trees? We have already told you about the types of this procedure. Now it is worth talking about the methods. There are currently two known methods. Let's talk about each of them in more detail.

Shortening

The bottom line is cutting off young shoots. This is done in order to prevent the growth of shoots outside the crown..

This is done as follows: choose a shoot that grows outward and has more than one kidney. For example, if there are three buds on the shoot, it is recommended to cut one. The following year, the cut branch should produce three young shoots. One of them will definitely grow in the direction the gardener needs, that is, not outward from the crown, but parallel to the ground. This shoot is left, the other two are cut off.

thinning

Such pruning of fruit trees is considered the safest for plant health. In this case, the branches are not cut, but removed completely.

It is necessary to delete the branch at its very base. Usually in this place there is a barely visible fold of the bark. This crease should remain intact. Then the cut site will quickly tighten with bark, which will significantly reduce the risk of disease.

Tool selection

The choice of tools for circumcision fruit trees plays a big role. Tools should be not only comfortable, but also well-sharpened.. This will allow not only to quickly carry out necessary work, but will also bring less discomfort to the seedling.

Here is a list of tools that should be in the arsenal of any gardener:

Secateurs

This is probably the most popular and frequently used tool in gardening. When buying such garden shears, you need to pay attention to following points: weight, sharpening and operation of the mechanism.

If you purchase a tool that doesn't fit your hand or works hard, the job of pruning fruit trees will take a lot of time and effort.

Hacksaw

Inexperienced gardeners often use ordinary carpentry tools to work in the garden. This is fundamentally the wrong approach. A construction saw, although it will provide a faster process of work, will cause irreparable harm to the tree. Therefore, it is best to purchase a special garden saw.

Air pruner

This tool according to the principle of operation does not differ from ordinary garden scissors. The only difference is the telescopic design of the fixture. Thanks to it, without using a ladder, you can cut branches located at a decent height from the ground.

petrol saw

This tool is used to trim thick branches from old trees.

How to properly prune to increase the yield of a tree

Many novice gardeners do not pay due attention to this procedure. Why bother with pruning if the tree bears fruit so well, they say. But high yield will be only in the first three years, then it will sharply decline.

The crown plays an important role in the fruitfulness of the tree. It is recommended to cut and form it from the beginning of planting the seedling in the ground. The crown should not be very thick and high. Otherwise, the abundance of branches will not skip Sun rays, which will hinder fruit development. In addition, it is very problematic to process and spray heavily thickened trees. Accordingly, the plant will often get sick.

Pruning the garden is also needed so that the branches grow in the same direction. The chaotic pile of branches not only reduces the yield, but also makes it difficult to collect it. Therefore, all shoots that grow strictly up or down are recommended to be completely removed.

Horizontal branches should not be removed, it is on them that the most fruit is formed. In extreme cases, you can cut them slightly so that the branch does not break from the abundance of fruits.

Do not leave dried, broken or frozen branches. They affect not only the yield, but also the lifespan of your garden.

IN winter time, especially with the onset extreme cold it is recommended to prune the crown. This will allow the plant to recover faster after frost and, accordingly, give more yield.

When to prune

Why you need to prune fruit trees and how to do it right, we figured it out. Now we should talk about what time of the year it is better to do this.

pruning garden trees held at any time of the year. But it is worth considering some factors. For example, the region of the country where your garden is located. Considering the vast expanses of our Motherland, each of its regions has its own climatic conditions.

For example, in the south it is recommended to do this, because there are no very coldy. IN middle lane Russia, and in the north of the country, do not prune fruit trees. Otherwise, during severe frosts, the tree may get sick and die.

Given these features, we can conclude that the optimal time for cutting branches is early. Until the buds start to swell. Therefore, first of all, they pay attention to old trees. Buds on them are formed much earlier than in young plants.

Also has its own characteristics. In general, experienced gardeners and biologists advise choosing for pruning the period when the garden is resting.

Security proper care behind the trees and shrubs in the garden will guarantee fast growth and their bountiful fruiting. The gardener is required to prune the trees in the garden every year, which will not only allow the formation of the correct crown, but also prevent the crown from thickening, which can lead to the development of various kinds of fungal and infectious diseases. We will tell you in more detail how to properly prune trees in the fall, which will greatly simplify the care of plantings in the garden.

What is pruning for?

Fruit trees should be pruned in autumn in two ways.: thinning and shortening. This improves the growth of perennials by preventing them from mechanical damage snow, strong wind, forms the correct growth of the crown, and also allows you to remove branches that no longer bear fruit, but are able to take food from the tree, which in turn worsens the yield.

Such works are not particularly difficult, so everyone, even a novice gardener, can handle them. It is only necessary to correctly determine the time when this work is performed, as well as correctly determine those branches and shoots that need to be removed and shortened. Having understood the principles of this work, you can easily carry out such an annual autumn pruning of trees and shrubs in the garden, simplifying your garden care and improving its fruiting rates.

Varieties of the procedure

To date It is customary to distinguish three types of pruning perennial plantings in the garden:

• Sanitary.
• Formative.
• Anti-aging.

Sanitary pruning involves the removal of broken, dried and diseased branches. Such pruning can be carried out in spring and autumn or at the beginning of winter.

Formative pruning of trees and shrubs in autumn is necessary for young and adult plantations, especially during the period of active growth. Such work involves thinning and shortening of shoots, which in turn improves the penetration of light inside the crown, the gardener gets the opportunity to control growth, stimulates the development of side shoots and fruit formation. Most often, formative pruning is carried out in the spring, but such work is allowed to be done in the fall, which allows you to remove all incorrectly growing shoots and form the correct crown.

Anti-aging pruning is performed on old trees that are beginning to bear fruit poorly and require special attention. When performing this work, the top of the tree is cut off, the crown opens, old shoots and branches are removed. All this allows to improve fruiting rates, which in turn prolongs the life of garden trees.

Tool used

To complete this job, you will need next tool:

You should also take care of the presence of a garden pitch, which is used to process and disinfect the cut site. You can buy such a garden var in most specialized stores or make it yourself on the basis of drying oil.

Step-by-step instructions for pruning young trees

For proper trimming you need:

Scheme for beginners

Pruning mature trees in autumn for beginners is not particularly difficult and is performed using the following technology:

Rules for caring for old trees

Usually, by 15–20 years after planting trees, their yield indicators are significantly reduced. You can solve this problem by carrying out appropriate rejuvenating pruning of the garden. Such work is carried out in September or October, after the leaves have completely fallen. With such a rejuvenating pruning, the top is cut off and the lateral processes are removed, which are already five or more years old.

Extra shoots inside the crown are removed, which can interfere with the growth of young shoots. Also, when performing such work, all broken, dry and diseased branches should be removed. Proper implementation of such rejuvenating pruning will allow you to get excellent yields in a year and a half, which will last for 4-5 seasons.

Common Mistakes

Common mistakes include the following:

Such spring and autumn pruning is performed and fruit trees in regions with temperate climate. But in the northern regions in the fall, when there is already a possibility of frost, it is not recommended to carry out such manipulations with trees and shrubs.

The timing of the autumn pruning will directly depend on the climatic features in your area. It is best to do this work in October, when the trees shed their leaves, the harvest will be harvested, but there will be another 2-3 weeks before frost.

It is necessary to carry out autumn pruning of apple trees after the foliage has completely fallen off and harvested. Usually this work is done by gardeners in October and November. All broken, rotten and old branches are removed. Experienced gardeners recommend removing shoots that grow close to each other, which leads to a significant thickening of the crown. All shoots that grow at an acute angle or are directed inside the crown are removed.

All cuts after such pruning of the apple tree should be treated with paint based on drying oil or garden varnish. Existing wounds on dry branches should be treated immediately, but hemp from young shoots is covered with var only a day later.

At right choice the time of this procedure, the apple tree will easily endure such pruning, and next year growth will improve significantly, numerous new shoots will appear, the correct crown will be formed, and in the future the gardener will be able to get apple orchard excellent harvest.

One of the features of pear trimming is that it is recommended to perform such work in a year. Sanitary autumn pruning of such fruit trees is allowed only with a stable plus and no danger of frost in the coming weeks. Remember that pears should not be pruned in cold weather, since such trees do not tolerate frost well, subsequently they get sick a lot and bear fruit poorly.

With formative pruning, the top is shortened and no more than five main lateral skeletal branches are left, forming pyramidal crown. Every five years, it is worth performing a rejuvenating pruning, which avoids thickening and maintains yields at the proper level.

Correct autumn pruning plum

Plum and other stone fruit trees will require appropriate attention from the gardener. Proper autumn pruning will ensure high-quality preparation for winter sleep, and subsequently such trees grow actively and bear excellent fruit. This work should be performed immediately after the leaves fall no later than the first days of November.

Pruning plums in the fall is not particularly difficult:

pruning fruit trees

Autumn pruning of fruit trees will significantly improve the fruiting of the garden. It is necessary to perform such work with cherry plum, shadberry, sea buckthorn, quince and viburnum only after the leaves have fallen. We can recommend that you limit yourself to only necessary measures, remove damaged branches and shoots growing at right angles to the main crown.

If rejuvenating pruning of fruit trees is necessary, then the removal of one or two skeletal branches is allowed, and all branches that are already 5 years old and which practically do not bear fruit are cut off. In the subsequent planting, after performing such a rejuvenating pruning, they quickly restore their yield indicators, which persist for 5-7 years.

Shrub pruning technology will depend on the specific type of planting in the garden. So, for example, two-three-year-old raspberries should be cut to the very bush, leaving only the rhizome in the ground, after which the soil is mulched and high-quality thermal insulation is performed. But red and black currants should be cut in winter using a different technology, removing only old two-three-year-old branches, while forming a powerful bush with several skeletal shoots.

When it is necessary to remove not only the old fruit-bearing branches, but also the young shoots that appeared in spring and autumn can reach a height of 2-3 centimeters. Such young shoots will subsequently bear fruit poorly, so they should also be removed, leaving only one rhizome. A strong raspberry, even after such a serious pruning, will be able to quickly increase its green mass next year, delighting the gardener with a magnificent harvest. delicious berries.

Trimming methods

Pruning fruit trees has a variety of purposes. Gardeners distinguish several main methods of pruning:

1. Formative. considered the most important. It contributes to the correct formation of the crown and determines the general shape of the trees on the site. Held in early spring before the juice begins to flow.
2. Regulatory. Needed to correct an already formed crown. Extra shoots are removed, overloading the tree and preventing good lighting. The period is during the summer.
3. Recovery. It is carried out if the plant needs rehabilitation. Dry, damaged branches are removed. This increases the flow nutrients to updated escapes.
4. Anti-aging. Allows old trees to renew, increase the growth of young fruit-bearing shoots. Promotes the awakening of dormant buds, activates flowering. Held in early spring.
5. Sanitary. It is intended for the prevention of diseases and the improvement of trees damaged by exposure to external factors. Plants can be infected with a fungus. The branches begin to dry, the bark turns black and flakes off. To prevent the tree from dying completely, all diseased shoots are removed. Some branches are broken under the influence weather conditions and begin to die off, they should also be removed.

Wood processing after pruning

In order not to weaken the vital functions of the plant, after pruning, it is necessary to immediately treat the wounds. On healthy trees cut points, especially large ones, can be covered with garden pitch. It prevents cracking and remains on wood for 2 years.

Small sections up to 3 cm in diameter can be coated with water-based acrylic paint. Also suitable for this purpose Oil paint on natural drying oil or minium. In the absence of such funds, you can use ordinary clay. When cutting diseased plants, treat the tools with alcohol or a solution of manganese.

The surface to be treated must be dry, smooth and even. All protruding particles must be removed. Overgrowing of the wound starts from the bark, it should not exfoliate.

Tightly adhering to the cut surface, the putty provides protection against leakage of juice and drying of the branch. It is necessary to process even small sections, since the juice flowing down them is a favorable environment for the reproduction of harmful microbes.