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When is the right time to transplant strawberries? Transplanting strawberries to a new place in spring, summer and autumn: timing and methods of reproduction

Gardeners often wonder when it is possible to transplant Victoria. Should I do this in the fall, or is it better to wait for the new season and divide the overgrown bush in the spring? You can find answers to these and other questions in our article.

When Victoria is transplanted: general concepts

Strawberries grow every year. New leaves, whiskers and peduncles appear in the process of its formation. Growth stops only in the fourth year of the plant's life. This often results in lower yields. To keep fruiting in full force, you should take care of a new strawberry plantation. When is the best time to transplant Victoria? Usually this process takes place in spring (before flowering) or early autumn. For reproduction, young rosettes formed on long shoots are used. They grow from the mother bush. It is best to take sockets from a plant no older than three years. After the young shoot takes root, it can be planted in a new place. For a good harvest, it is best in autumn. Bushes during the winter period will have time to get stronger and take root in a new place. If the plan cannot be fulfilled, then transfer the transplant to the spring. The yield will be a little lower, but you will definitely not be left without berries in the summer. In the spring, you can start transplanting as early as April. Of course, one must be guided by weather conditions region.

Location selection

When transplanting Victoria, it is best to choose a well-lit place. Pay attention to the fact that there are no shadows from the trees. It is desirable that the soil be slightly acidic and loamy. If the place is swampy, then you will have to do drainage. On acidic soils notification should be made. A place where legumes used to grow is well suited for planting. It is not recommended to use the soil after planting cucumbers and representatives. A couple of months before planting, you need to prepare the soil. The earth should be dug up, cleared of weeds. When digging, add a little humus, you can also scatter superphosphate. You need to water the prepared area the day before planting Victoria.

Technology

When transplanting Victoria, weather conditions play a huge role. It is best to do this in cloudy weather so that the hot sun does not burn the leaves. Dig up rooted young plants from the ground and remove the lashes on which rosettes grow. Shake off the soil from the roots, pinch them a quarter of the length. When a Victoria is transplanted, its roots are usually dipped in a mixture of clay, water and manure. Holes for young plant best done at a distance of 30 cm from each other. Between the rows, about 70 cm should be retreated. Make sure that the landing point is at ground level, and not higher. After transplanting, Victoria needs to be watered, and the soil sprinkled with peat. Ordinary sawdust will do. You can use a special mulching material that is left in the garden for the winter.

A big harvest of strawberries is a real reward for a gardener for all his work. Experienced gardeners know that abundant fruiting of berries occurs in the second and third year of transplantation. If this procedure is not carried out, the berries will be crushed, and the culture itself will degenerate in a few years. In this article, we will tell you how strawberries are transplanted in the fall.

Benefits of an autumn transplant

Strawberry is a perennial plant from the Rosaceae family, which begins to grow from the beginning of spring until the ripening of the last fruits. The amount of harvest directly depends on the place you choose to plant. Everyone knows the fact that strawberries begin to shrink over the years. To avoid this, it needs to be rejuvenated every 3-4 years.

Many are wondering when it is better to transplant strawberries so that they adapt faster. Experienced gardeners say that best time for transplantation is autumn. This is because, thanks to frequent rains, crop care at this time is minimized. Also, the rains will help the young seedlings to take root properly, since a high level of moisture is maintained in the soil at this time.

The best transplant time is September. In warm regions, this procedure can be postponed until October. Even in this case, young seedlings will have time to build up leaf mass for a successful winter.

Thanks to the transplantation of strawberries in the fall, the bushes will bloom next spring and will delight you with a small harvest. Of course, the fruiting will not be as large as that of two- and three-year-old rosettes, but the berries will grow good. With a spring transplant, you can not wait for the crop.

How to transplant strawberries in autumn

Strawberries must be transplanted, adhering to all the rules. When choosing a landing site, preparing planting material and carrying out the transplant process itself, there are many nuances that should be taken into account. But first things first.

How to choose a place to land

First you need to choose a place for planting young bushes and prepare the soil. This issue must be approached with all responsibility. Plant health and the future harvest depend on the place allotted for the beds. When choosing a place, you need to remember about crop rotation. For strawberries, good predecessors will be:

• garlic;
• parsley;
• legumes;
• radish;
• leaf salad;
• carrot;
• beet;
• green manure.

These crops will prepare the soil well for future strawberry plantings. However, do not forget about the plants, after which you should not plant. These include cucumbers, tomatoes, cabbage and potatoes. If strawberries are planted in their place of growth, then the risk of infection with verticillium wilt increases significantly.

The plot for the beds should be located in a well-lit and calm place. If on your territory it is impossible to transfer the landing to another, more favorable place, then you need to disinfect the soil. To do this, you can use a solution of potassium permanganate or fungicides.

How to prepare the soil

Strawberry bushes are quite unpretentious to the ground, but they grow and bear fruit best on looser soils with a slightly acidic reaction. Before transplanting, it is necessary to prepare the bed - dig and fertilize. At this point, by fertilizing the land, strawberries can be provided with all the necessary nutrients for several seasons to come. During the transplant, you can make:

• rotted compost;
• humus;
• chicken manure.

Fertilizer consumption is as follows: 1 bucket of top dressing per 1 sq. m. beds.

The day before transplanting, the bed should be well watered. Holes should be formed immediately before planting the bushes. The distance between rows should be at least 50 cm, between plants - 20-25 cm. Such a planting scheme will ensure the most complete development of strawberries. Bushes can be planted not only in beds, but also in a carpet, as well as in a checkerboard pattern. Choose your landing method.

Selecting seedlings for transplanting

In August, after harvesting, strawberries begin to throw out tendrils with young rosettes. This time is considered the most optimal for the selection of seedlings. In addition, the plant can be propagated by dividing the bush. But in this case, only young bushes that have grown in the summer are suitable.

Rooting tendrils can be left directly on the beds, but some gardeners prefer to root them in prepared separate containers. So, the autumn strawberry transplant will be carried out more efficiently. In addition, it will be possible to grow seedlings in the winter.

When 4-5 leaves appear on a new outlet, it becomes a full-fledged bush that needs to be planted from the mother. Before transplanting, the lower leaves must be removed from the young bush. Due to this, the strawberry root system will spend less energy on feeding the green mass. This will lead to a more harmonious development of the strawberry bush.

It should be remembered that only the first 2 tendrils should take root from each bush. All the rest can be removed, otherwise the seedlings will be weak and small.

Only those plants that have a well-developed root system are suitable for planting. The root lobe should not exceed 5 cm in length. Old bushes are not suitable for transplantation - they still will not bring the expected results. Remember that the bushes need to be dug up before planting, it is better to do this with an earthen clod together. If it is not possible to transplant on the same day, then wrap the roots with a wet rag and place in a plastic bag.

Transfer

Many are interested in how to properly transplant strawberries in the fall, because the yield depends on it. For transplanting, it is better to choose a cloudy day, so that later you do not need to shade the beds.

The transfer instructions are as follows:

1. After you have dug the holes, fill them with water.
2. Dip the roots of the bushes in a mixture of water, clay and manure. This will greatly speed up their survival.
3. Place seedlings with a lump of earth in the holes.
4. Cover the bushes with earth, lightly tamp with your palms and pour again.
5. Mulch the soil with straw or sawdust.

With further proper care, the seedlings will take root and the next season will yield a crop in a new place.

Aftercare

After the strawberry transplant is completed, the following care activities should be carried out:

• after watering, loosen the soil between the rows;
• after a week, check the survival rate of the plants. If there are dead bushes, then others can be planted in their place;
• after a month, loosen the soil again to a depth of 3-4 cm;
• if the weather is dry in autumn, then water the strawberries every week. For her, only settled and sun-warmed water is suitable;
• if the planted bushes began to bloom, then the flower stalks must be removed;
• with the onset of frost, insulate the beds with coniferous branches;
• in the spring, as soon as the ground warms up, remove the mulch.

It must be remembered that strawberries are very tender plant, which needs to be looked after all year round. One of the most important events in this matter is strawberry transplantation. It should be carried out every 3-4 years, it is better to do this in the autumn. The work of the gardener will be justified, because in such a simple way you can significantly increase the yield. And strawberries, as you know, are considered one of the most delicious and healthy garden berries.

Did you come across this material because you most likely need to either plant or transplant strawberries to a new place? Basically, it's the same thing, you need to create a new strawberry patch in one of the possible ways. To be honest, this occupation is not too simple, but absolutely necessary. About why, when and how to do it most correctly and rationally, will be discussed in the article below.

Why and why is it necessary to transplant strawberries?

One of the features of the development of strawberries is the gradual increase in the diameter of the bush due to the growth of new rosettes (it would be more correct to call them horns), which in the future negatively affects its fruiting.

When strawberry bushes grow like this, they become crowded, nutrition begins to be lacking, so the plant should be updated (rejuvenated) to return to its optimal productivity, i.e. plant or transplant (for example, if you initially planted bushes at too close a distance from each other).

Interesting! Strawberry bush development scheme:

• an annual strawberry seedling has 1 horn (this will be the mother root);
• for the 2nd year of life - already 2-3 horns (the most abundant harvest);
• for 3 years of life - already 6-9 horns (yield is noticeably reduced).

Thus, strawberries can grow well in one place (without transplanting), as a rule, no more than 3 years. Actually, you yourself will notice how the bush grows, and the berries themselves begin to shrink.

In other words, the strawberry itself will tell you when it needs to be replanted, because there are certain varieties and hybrids that can normally bear fruit for more than 3 years, of course, with proper care and regular feeding.

What needs to be done to continue to get bountiful harvests of tasty and large strawberries? And here's what:

• for the 2nd year, it is mandatory to propagate strawberries - with a mustache or by dividing the bush;
• in the 3rd year, overgrown bushes should either be disposed of (thrown away and not tormented), or the old bush should be divided.

By the way! Some summer residents who do not have problems with a place to plant (in the sense that the plot is large and not planted) do not get rid of old strawberry bushes, since the most delicious jam is obtained from small and fragrant berries.

When is the best time to transplant strawberries to a new place?

It is impossible to unequivocally answer the question of when it is better to transplant strawberries - in spring or autumn (more precisely, in the summer-autumn period). But you can highlight the advantages of landing in each of the seasons:

• The advantage of transplanting in the spring is the fact that during this period there is a lot of moisture in the ground and the air is not hot. During this time, young garden strawberries will have time to take root and develop a good root system.
• If transplanted in the fall, then before the onset of frost, the strawberry bushes will also have time to take root very well and give young green leaves. In addition to this obvious advantage, autumn time it often rains, which means there will be no need for frequent watering. In addition, at this time it is corny more time than in the spring turmoil with seedlings.

Transplant in the spring

The optimal time for transplanting strawberries in the spring directly depends on your climate zone and current weather conditions. As a rule, on average in the south (as well as in Ukraine) it is the months of March-April, in the middle lane (Moscow region) - the end of April - May, in the Urals and Siberia - the second half of May-beginning of June.

The general rule for determining the right time to transplant strawberries is the moment when the soil completely thaws and the air temperature rises to +10 degrees. Although, if the soil has already thawed, but the temperature is zero (and according to the weather forecast, it will only rise), then the procedure can be carried out, strawberries can survive light frosts.

Important! The main advantage of transplanting strawberries by dividing the bush in the spring is the fact that you can get a harvest (albeit small) in the year of division.

As for the suitable methods of transplanting (propagating) strawberries, in the spring this can only be done by dividing the bush, or by planting seedlings grown from seeds. It will not work to propagate bushes from mustaches, since they begin to form only in summer.

Video: strawberry transplant in spring

Summer transplant

You can transplant strawberries in the summer. But it is very undesirable to do this if there is a strong heat, for example, in July. But it is in August (2 weeks after fruiting) that the most auspicious time for transplanting strawberry bushes to a new place.

Important! Strawberries should not be planted in the summer heat due to the fact that the roots cannot yet properly receive nutrition from the ground, and hot air causes the leaves to evaporate moisture strongly. As a result, such bushes will either take root for a very long and painful time, or dry out (without proper care).

If you still decide to plant strawberries in the middle of summer, then you need to take care of it very carefully, namely, water it almost every day by sprinkling (but the drops should be small).

Transplant in autumn

Clarification! Rather, it is correct to talk about the summer-autumn transplant.

The best time to transplant strawberries is the beginning of autumn, that is, approximately the month of September. One of the main advantages of transplanting in autumn is the fact that at this time strawberries can be propagated, in addition to dividing the bush, planting seedlings grown from seeds, as well as using mustaches that will grow back over the summer. But it is necessary to root the mustache in the summer, in June-July.

However! If you live in the northern regions, for example, in the Urals or Siberia, that is, you have frosts early, then in the fall (or at the end of summer) you should not transplant strawberries, it is better to do this in spring (or summer) so that the bushes have time to take root normally .

Video: transplanting strawberries in the fall

Methods of propagation (transplantation) of strawberries

There are only 3 propagation methods for strawberry bushes:

• dividing the bush (horns);
• mustache rooting;
• growing seedlings from seeds.

Video: 3 ways to propagate garden strawberries (strawberries) - seeds, mustaches and dividing the bush

Rooting mustaches (or rosettes)

Before you start rooting your mustache, you should take a closer look to take the most productive strawberry bushes for propagation. Moreover, you should take no more than 3-4 mustaches from one bush, and remove the rest.

Important! In such uterine bushes, for good, all flower stalks should be cut off and not allowed to bear fruit, so that they direct all their forces to the mustache, although, in principle, this is not necessary.

Step-by-step instructions for breeding strawberries with a mustache:

1. Remove all flower stalks in advance.
2. To speed up, as a rule, only “children-daughters” (the first rosettes) are chosen on the most powerful and well-formed mustaches. It is precisely under them that you need to bury them in the ground or put small pots or cups next to them (digested ones retain moisture better, but if you, for example, high beds, then it makes no sense to dig in), which should be filled with garden soil and compost or humus in equal proportions.
3. Lay the socket in the center of the landing container.
4. Fasten the mustache on both sides of the socket with an aluminum wire eyelet or an unbent paper clip, or similar “fasteners”.
5. Cut off the mustache (continuation of the shoot) that is not connected to the mother bush (so that the plant receives more nutrition).
6. Containers with rosettes now need to be watered regularly (1 time per day). If it is very hot, then you should do it 2 times a day.
7. When the roots fill the entire cup and 4-6 leaves appear (as a rule, it takes 1-1.5 months), the plant can already be separated from the mother bush by cutting off the uterine mustache with a pruner.
8. That's it, you can transplant a fresh strawberry seedling to a new place, and first, of course, you need to pull it out of the ground and cut off its own mustache that has formed in it.

Step-by-step instructions for transplanting a young strawberry seedling to a new place:

Important! You can read about planting strawberries with a closed root system in summer and autumn. Here. Or use the shorter guide below:

1. Dig planting holes depending on the size of the containers in which the sockets were rooted.
2. Sprinkle wells with plenty of water.
3. Carefully remove the plant and transplant into the hole. In this case, the most important thing is to place the growing point of the bush (heart) at ground level. If you go too deep, the plant will swell, plant high - expose the base of the roots, from which the bush will dry out and simply freeze in winter.
4. If you forgot to disinfect and protect the beds before transplanting, then you can do it now, namely, shed it with phytosporin, and it is desirable, including getting on the leaves. Or just water generously.
5. Mulch the garden.

By the way! About why to mulch garden strawberry beds and about the various ways of this, of course, a very useful event, you can learn from this article.

Important! This method of propagation of strawberries is completely non-traumatic, and the survival rate of bushes is almost 100%.

Video: mustache propagation of strawberries

Division of the bush (reproduction by horns)

Step-by-step instructions for dividing a strawberry bush:

1. Dig up an adult overgrown bush along with an earthy clod. This must be done carefully (without damaging the roots), carefully digging with a shovel from all sides.
2. Place the strawberry bush in a wide container.
3. Now you need to get rid of all the old dry leaves and shoots. Then release the roots from the ground.
4. Next, lower the bush into a basin and fill it with water so that the roots are completely in the water, so it will be easier to clean (wash) them from the remaining earth.
5. In the process of soaking the earthy coma, the bush will, so to speak, share itself, you just need to help a little with your hands, separating the horns from each other.
6. All other horns (not separated on their own) should be cut off from the mother plant with a knife, while it is important that each horn has an apical bud and roots (see the diagram of the old strawberry bush in the first paragraph of the article).
7. Each division now needs remove excess leaves(leaving 2-3 central ones on 2 stalks, the greenest and freshest, and the rest should be cut with scissors about 1/2 - to reduce the evaporation of moisture by them), peduncles And trim old (dark) roots, leaving the youngest (light).
8. Now, for better survival, the roots can be disinfected in a Fitosporin solution, and also treated in one of the growth stimulants, such as Kornevin, Epin or Zircon. Or use the old way: dip in a clay-dung mash, which is very easy to prepare. To do this, you need to take 3 parts of clay and 1 part of manure, and then dilute with water until you get "thick sour cream".
9. Everything, seedlings can be planted in open ground or, alternatively, slightly grow up by planting them in separate pots.

A step-by-step guide to the further planting of divided strawberry seedlings (horns):

1. Choose a place and prepare (fertilize) the bed.
2. Dig planting holes depending on the size of the root system.
3. Sprinkle wells with plenty of water.
4. Carefully place the seedling in the hole and dig in.
5. The most important thing in this case (when planting a plant with an open root system) is not only to correctly position the growth point of the bush (heart) at ground level, but to stretch the roots well vertically (without bending). If you bury it too deep, the plant will swell. If you plant high, then expose the base of the roots, from which the bush will dry out and simply freeze in winter.
6. Water generously.
7. Mulch plantings.

Worth knowing! The propagation method by dividing the bush is applicable to any type of strawberry, including remontant.

Video: propagation of strawberries (garden strawberries) by dividing the bush (horns)

Note! When dividing an old bush, delenki, most likely, will no longer produce a strong and stable crop, since these are already quite depleted bushes. Therefore, this method should be used only in exceptional cases, for example, if the bushes have frozen over during the winter, or if it is a beardless variety (which is almost non-existent now).

seeds

Important!Detailed information about the reproduction and cultivation of strawberries from seeds (planting seedlings) at home, you can by reading this article on our website..

Rules for transplanting (planting) strawberry seedlings and answers to frequently asked questions

Below you can find answers to current questions about the correct transplantation (planting) of strawberry seedlings.

When is the simplest strawberry transplant (without breeding and dividing the bush) to a new place?

In the spring before flowering (before the peduncles are thrown out) or at the end of summer-autumn (2 weeks after the end of fruiting).

How to move a bush from one place to another?

1. Remove old leaves (dark green) with spots, and you can also trim the leaves further (to reduce moisture evaporation)
2. Trim the mustache (if the transplant is in summer-autumn)
3. Prepare a large hole for planting according to the size of an earthen coma and shed abundantly.
4. Dig up a bush along with a clod of earth and take it to a new place right on a shovel, carefully lowering it into a wet hole.
5. Sprinkle lightly with water.
6. Mulch as desired and necessary.

Video: transplanting strawberries to a new location - expanding strawberry areas by planting dense plantings

Preparationbeds (soil) for transplantation

To prepare a new place (soil) for transplanting strawberry bushes, you will need:

1. Try to completely rid the bed of weeds.
2. Spill with phytosporin (for disinfection) and let it stand for a couple of days (or this can be done after disembarkation).
3. Loosen immediately before planting.
4. Scatter wood ash so that it covers the entire area with a thin layer (1 liter jar per 1 sq. meter), or a similar potash fertilizer (for example, 20 grams of potassium sulfate).
5. Then add superphosphate (40-50 grams per 1 sq. Meter).
6. Pour excellent humus or well-rotted manure (6-8 kg per 1 sq. meter).
7. Some gardeners recommend digging the bed onto a shovel bayonet to mix fertilizer with the ground, others (as in the video below) advise planting directly on a layer of fertilizer.

Note! Supersphosphate will not work if you have acidic soil, it will only work on neutral or alkaline soils.

Video: soil preparation for transplanting strawberries to a new place

Is it possible to transplant flowering garden strawberries?

Yes, you can, but it is recommended to remove all flower stalks without fail so that the plant does not waste extra energy, but focuses on root survival in a new place. But still, it is better to carry out all breeding procedures either before flowering (before throwing out flower stalks), or after the end of fruiting (after 2 weeks).

However! You can also transplant flowering strawberries (but only young bushes), while you must definitely save the earthen ball (transfer the bushes directly on the shovel). In this case, the strawberry bushes will not notice anything and will continue to bloom further. But if the roots become bare during the transfer, then soon they will drop the flowers themselves and start to hurt ...

Is it possible to transplant (plant) strawberries to the old place?

Yes, you can, especially if you treat (spill) the bed with phytosporin (for soil disinfection). But still, it is better to plant garden strawberries after greens (lettuce, sorrel), onions and garlic, carrots, beets, radishes and legumes. Categorical is not recommended to plant after potatoes, cabbage, tomatoes and peppers.

At what distance to plant?

It is most convenient to plant strawberries according to the most standard scheme: 60-70 by 25-30 centimeters (tape in 1 row or rows). But there are various ways of planting - both simpler (solid carpet) and complex (tape in several lines).

Care for strawberries after transplanting

It is necessary to take care of the transplanted bushes of garden strawberries carefully, but in general care is quite simple - regular watering is basically necessary.

So, after transplanting, the bushes should be watered every day for at least 1-2 weeks. However, you need to try not to overdo it and not flood, especially if you mulched a strawberry patch. Approximately as many strawberries are needed to somehow settle in a new place. Further watering should be carried out as the earth dries up.

In the first year, there is no point in additionally feeding strawberries, because. when transplanting, you have already fertilized the bed well.

Note! It is equally important to properly prepare strawberries for winter (especially transplanted and young ones), namely, to cover them correctly and well. You can find detailed information in this material.

Proper transplantation is exactly what strawberries lack to resume the greatest productivity and prospects for a rich harvest. It is worth taking a closer look at interesting offers for transplanting a strawberry bush and choosing the most optimal for you.

Contrary to popular belief, after the harvest, with the advent of autumn, country work does not end. During this period, gardeners are waiting for a lot of work on their site. Transplanting strawberries to a new location is one of those.

Why transplant strawberries

The peculiarity of this berry is that after growing in one area for several years, its yield decreases, and after that it completely ceases to bear fruit.

Every year, the bushes produce new tendrils, peduncles, leaves. This growth ensures productivity. By the 4th year, it stops, respectively, the yield drops. To avoid this phenomenon, a transplant is performed. When should strawberries be transplanted? You will find the answer to this question below.

Did you know? The name "strawberry" came into use in the 18th century, before that the berry familiar to us was called nutmeg strawberries.

When to transplant strawberries

Planting can be carried out in any season from spring to autumn. Consider the features of the work depending on the season, in order to answer the question: “When is it better to transplant remontant strawberries: in spring, summer or autumn?”.

Transplant in the spring

Spring events are held in April, when the active growth of the root system and bush begins. This process must be completed before flowering begins. What to look for:

• Before transplanting, remove bushes that have not survived wintering, diseased and stunted.
• Dig up the selected plants under the root.
• Holes should be made deep and spacious, a layer of sand should be poured to the bottom.
• Be careful not to dig the bush too deep, but also not to expose the roots.
• Compact the soil well, then loosen the top layer.
• Top dressing should be done only after two weeks after transplantation.

Important! Bushes transplanted in spring bloom, but do not bring a crop.

Summer strawberry transplant

Transplantation is carried out in the summer when there is a desire to expand the plantation, or the bushes have grown too much and need to be rejuvenated. Nuances of summer seating:

• Spend in July-August, after fruiting.
• Young plants need to be shaded.
• Only a few shoots are left on the donor bushes.
• The beds are prepared in advance, introducing compost or manure into them, dug up twice and only then proceed to planting.

It is better to plant strawberries next to tomatoes, parsley, garlic, onions, beans, cucumbers, raspberries, sea buckthorn, mint, clematis, grapes and marigolds, since these plants have a beneficial effect on it.

Transplanting strawberries in the fall

Autumn strawberry transplantation is considered the most optimal and correct. Care of transplanted bushes is minimized due to the presence of rains at this time of the year. Let us dwell separately on the features of transplantation in the fall.

Features of autumn strawberry transplant: why autumn?

As mentioned above, the presence of precipitation favorably affects the rooting of new bushes, the absence of bright sun does not dry them out. Before the first frost, the plants have time to get stronger, grow leaves. Most of the seedlings planted during this period successfully survive the winter. A big plus of autumn planting is that at this time the work in the garden is significantly reduced and you can easily allocate time for this event. In addition, with such a transplant, the crop can be obtained in the next season. If we talk about when you can transplant strawberries in the fall, then it is preferable to do this in September.

How to transplant strawberries in autumn

To obtain the maximum result, when strawberries are planted, a number of rules and conditions are observed.

Choosing a transplant site: lighting, soil, predecessors

Garden strawberries are unpretentious to the ground, but loose, slightly acidic soil, which is pre-fertilized with organic matter, is suitable for best results.

Important! For transplanting, choose a cloudy and calm day. Before you transplant strawberries in the fall, you should treat the soil from pests. An important indicator when choosing a site for a new plantation is what crops grew on the site before. It is recommended to plant strawberries after:

• carrots;
• beets;
• legumes;
• greens;
• radish.

It is better to refrain from choosing the sites on which they were grown:

• potato;
• cabbage;
• tomatoes;
• cucumbers.

Rules for transplanting strawberries in the fall

To get a crop next year, two-year-old seedlings are used for transplantation. How to transplant strawberries in the fall:

1. Choose seedlings with well-developed roots, at least 5 cm, and the presence of 4-5 leaves per bush.
2. Old bushes do not transfer to a new place.
3. If you use purchased seedlings, you must disinfect them. To do this, the roots are immersed in hot water(about 50ºС) for 15 minutes, then soak for 10 minutes in cold water.
4. To increase the chances of survival, the roots are wrapped in a mixture of clay, manure and water.
5. Immediately after planting, seedlings must be watered with water at a temperature not lower than 15ºС.
6. After planting, apply mulch in the form of straw or sawdust.
7. The distance between the bushes should be about 25 cm, between the beds about 80 cm.

Did you know? The brighter the berry, the more vitamins and other useful substances it contains.

Care for strawberries after transplanting

With the moment when you can plant strawberries in the fall and how to do it, we figured it out, now let's talk about leaving. The rate of rooting and leaf growth, and, consequently, readiness for winter, depends on subsequent care. This is ensured by regular loosening of the soil around the plants, watering, treatment from weeds and pests. In the first week after planting, the bushes are watered every 2 days. After rooting, watering is reduced, but make sure that the soil constantly remains slightly moist. Watering should be done so that water does not fall on the leaves. There is no need for top dressing, because before planting strawberries in the fall, the soil has already been fertilized and this is quite enough for young plants. Pest control will help get rid of insects that hibernate in upper layers soil. To do this, the loosened earth is watered with a solution of Karbofos (3 tablespoons per 10 liters of water), after which the plants are covered with a film for 3 hours. Check out the variety of strawberry varieties: "Queen", "Chamora Trusi", "Fresco", "Zenga Zengana", "Kimberly", "Malvina", "Asia", "Marshal", "Lord", "Mashenka", "Russian size”, “Elizabeth 2”, “Korolea Elizabeth”, “Gigantella” and “Albion”. Prevention from pests can be carried out using the following composition of natural ingredients:

• 3 art. l. vegetable oil;
• 2 cups of liquid soap;
• 2 tbsp. l. wood ash;
• 2 tbsp. l. vinegar.

This mixture must be poured with 10 liters of water and the garden bed (the soil and the plants themselves) must be treated. If antennae begin to appear on the bushes, they must be removed. All the forces of the plant should be directed to the development of the root system.

We wish you a rich strawberry harvest and hope that the information provided on replanting in the fall and care will help to increase it.

Repair strawberries: planting and care

​Related Articles​

Strawberries respond well to loosening the soil - this provides unhindered air access to the roots,

Some varieties of remontant strawberries, unlike ordinary strawberries, also bear fruit on mustache rosettes (for example, Cardinal, Since the advantages of the variety are rarely transferred to strawberry bushes grown from seeds, this propagation method is the least preferred, therefore it is extremely rarely used. In the process planting, it is important to consider that the soil around the planted plant should not be dry, so it is better to pour loose earth or humus around the hole.This will allow the plant to “breathe” and the soil to retain moisture.

First harvest

The best soil composition for strawberries is sandy or medium loamy with neutral acidity. Previously, the soil should be cleared of weeds, especially perennials, as strawberries grow in one place from 3 to 5 years. It is good when garden strawberries are planted in place of legumes, onions, garlic, carrots or celery.

A rich selection of mid-ripening strawberries allows you to choose the optimal variety that is suitable both for weather conditions and for the capabilities of the gardener himself.

Popular varieties of remontant strawberries

maturity dates;

It is customary to plant remontant strawberry seedlings on previously cleared weeds, loosened and fertilized beds already in early May. This is done as follows: a hole is dug in the garden, it is watered with water, the roots are sprinkled with a special preparation and planted in the hole. The soil near the seedlings should be well compacted.

• Large fruits.
• "Irma";
• To get a strawberry crop was not the only goal of lovers of fragrant and exquisite berries. Among citrus fruits, strawberry crops, there are remontant varieties. The French origin of the word "remontant" means "blooming again." That is, during the season, the culture blooms several times and produces a crop. Usually gardeners get fruits twice, in rare cases more. The peculiarity lies in the fact that immediately after fruiting, remontant strawberries from seeds, seedlings immediately begin to tie flowers and buds. Thus, one bush provides the grower with a large number of berries. Fruiting begins in mid-spring and ends in late autumn.
• Kills weeds and retains moisture in dry weather. Loosen the soil after each heavy rain or watering.
• Geneva), therefore, in these varieties, the leaves are not cut, and the mustache is used for a “vertical” culture. Since plants are able to produce crops on newly formed rosettes on the whiskers (sometimes even without roots), you can create beautiful, solid vertical walls by tying the whiskers to coarse mesh or other devices.
• In order to get a crop from seeds, you should select the largest berries, cut off the upper part with seeds from them, grind and let them dry. The resulting seeds are freed from the pulp, soaked for a couple of days in clean water and sown in pots or peat tablets. After the sprouts appear, they should be thinned out, and hardened off before planting in open ground. To do this, the seedlings are taken out for a short time to fresh air.
• Watering is done warm water once a week, but if it is very hot, then it can be increased. During the first flowering, all flowers are removed so that in the year of planting the plant gains maximum strength. But next year, strawberries will give a good harvest.

How to plant remontant strawberries

The most popular varieties among summer residents are strawberries or strawberries, planting, growing and caring for which are simple even in bad weather conditions.

palatability;

Landing in open ground

Growing remontant strawberries involves performing some simple steps. For example, a gardener needs to know when to prune and how to care for remontant strawberries. But in order to provide the roots with much-needed air exchange, you should constantly loosen the soil near the bushes. Periodically, you need to add earth so that the roots do not become bare. This strawberry variety needs to be watered not only with a watering can, but also with a ladle.

Ampel remontant strawberries begin to bear fruit already in the month of May, the last crop is harvested with the onset of frost. Each bush forms at least 20 flower stalks, which gives almost 1.5 kilograms of berries from one bush. Also culture in warm conditions lays a crop at any time of the year, which gives a guarantee to get fruits even in the cold period. The berries are dense, fleshy, sweet, have an exquisite aroma.

"Lyubasha";

Strawberry ampel remontant

In order to be guaranteed to get a double crop, you should carefully monitor the crop, water it abundantly, and feed it with fertilizers. To prolong autumn fruiting With a strong defeat of strawberries with gray rot

• Both adults and children love sweet and fragrant garden strawberries, but it's a pity that you can enjoy it in the Moscow region for only a month - from the end of June to the end of July. And I really want these berries to be in the garden longer. That is why recently, more and more often, gardeners have been breeding remontant strawberries in their summer cottages, which bear fruit continuously or in waves until almost mid-autumn.
• The recommended scheme for planting strawberries in one row at a distance of 50 cm between the bushes. Between the rows there is also a gap of 50 cm. If the plot is small, then it is permissible to grow in 2 lines, between which a distance of 30 cm is made. It is undesirable to plant more often, since the plants will not be able to develop properly and will produce small berries.
• Planting dates depend on the strawberry variety and climatic conditions terrain. Most often this is the end of April-May or the end of August-mid-September. The main thing is that the soil is warm for at least another three weeks, so that the plant has time to take root.

These include varieties of medium-late or late ripening. The most famous of them are:

Yield and fruit size.

When the bushes bloom, they must be fertilized with minerals intended for strawberries and an infusion of bird droppings.

For planting ampelous remontant strawberries, a soil mixture of sand and humus should be prepared in a ratio of 3: 5.

Choosing a remontant strawberry variety - video

Remontant strawberries: features of cultivation and care

Features of the remontant variety

Tribute, etc.

The only negative is the remontant strawberry, "Queen Elizabeth", "Fresco" cannot "boast" as garden large fruits. The berries are small and poorly preserved. The reason is the constant loading of the bushes, the continuous "work" of the plant. Because of this, the "forces" are depleted, the culture begins to hurt, weaken and gives small berries.

(until the end of September, and sometimes until October 10-15), in a warm and long autumn, remontant strawberries are grown under translucent polymer film. Under such shelter, the berries tolerate low night temperatures and early frosts well. Fruiting is more abundant, in addition, the film inhibits the development of gray rot.

How to plant remontant strawberries

The soil should be abundantly sprayed with a 2% solution of potassium chloride or infusion of ash (500-700 g per 10 liters of water).

Remontant strawberries have a long period of flowering and fruiting

Experienced gardeners advise planting one variety of strawberries on the same bed, and not mixing species to save space.

If planting is done in the fall, then in the spring it will give a bountiful harvest of garden strawberries. Planting and care in the fall is as follows:

​Late dutch variety"Vikoda", which gives juicy and tasty berries up to 120 g of weight, similar to cockscombs. This species matures in mid-July, with virtually no whiskers, making it easy to care for. It has increased frost resistance, which makes it best candidate for growing in areas with a cold climate.​

​Currently, breeders around the world have developed many excellent varieties, but there is no ideal variety that suits all soils, climates and seasons. Planting and care, reproduction garden strawberry depend on its variety, and that, in turn, on the timing of ripening.

Weeding is recommended. If berries are found lying on the ground, they must be lifted with a special wire support. To achieve an increase in the size of the berries helps the regular breakage of the antennae.

Caring for blooming strawberries

The prepared mixture is heated in the oven at a temperature of 80-100 degrees for 3 hours. Planting should be done in February, March. Seeds are gently scattered on the surface, pre-moistened. The container is covered with a transparent film. The first sprouts appear in a month, to speed up the process, the container must be placed on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator for 3 days. Then the pots are set in a room with a temperature of 22 degrees, after the appearance of leaves, the seedlings are dived, and stored in a room at a temperature of 15 degrees. Landing in the ground is possible when 6 leaves appear at a distance of 25-30 cm in a checkerboard pattern. Normal care - weed removal, soil loosening, watering, fertilizing.

When choosing strawberries, first of all, pay attention to taste. This parameter is determined only by the test of a ripe berry. Also, to choose, you should plant several varieties and, after fruiting, decide which one is best suited for planting.

Cover remontant strawberries on August 8-10 (in the Non-Black Earth Region), pulling the film over light portable frames or

After that, the plantation

(about 4 months) due to the peculiarity of the growth of shoots (horns) and inflorescences. For the formation of flower buds of remontant varieties, relatively high daily temperatures (not lower than plus 15 ° C) and a long daylight hours (14-17 hours) are required, while ordinary garden strawberries lay flower buds in autumn with a short daylight hours (10-12 hours). and low air temperature.​

Garden strawberries, planting and caring for which do not differ from ordinary varieties, are becoming popular due to their ability to produce crops for many months in a row (from May to October). This quality of remontant varieties is used by both lovers of this berry and those who grow it for sale.

Garden strawberries: planting and care, reproduction

Site preparation, which consists in applying 10 kg of rotted humus (manure) and 50 g of mineral fertilizers per 1 m2 of land.

Choosing a variety of garden strawberries

​The Red Gauntlet variety from Scotland is unusually productive, medium-late, with very large, juicy dark red berries. It is resistant to diseases, winter-hardy, unpretentious.

The greatest demand among summer residents is for breeding varieties suitable for both jam and fresh consumption. For commercial cultivation, varieties that tolerate transportation well, have dense large berries that are stored for a long time are more suitable.

• If an aphid is found on strawberries, they fight it with a special solution, the ingredients of which are a few cloves of garlic and 3 liters of water. Such a solution must be infused for a week, after which the bushes are processed through a spray bottle.
• According to the recommendations of professional gardeners, remontant strawberries at home in winter should be exposed several times to frost for a short time. Frozen and dried bushes are cut off, the container is covered with material.
• Gardeners are increasingly interested in remontant strawberries from seeds, as the variety is cleaner. For planting, it is desirable to use soil intended for vegetable crops. The humidity of the earth should be at least 70-80%, without lumps. A dense container with a diameter of 15 cm is suitable as a container, prepared soil is poured into it, leaving 3 cm of the surface free. Seeds are poured over the soil and sprinkled with a small layer of dry soil, irrigated with thin streams of water.
• Repair strawberries at home will please the lover with fragrant berries that can be obtained in late autumn days. The main thing is to know what a remontant strawberry is, planting and caring for a crop.
• Constructing tunnels according to the size of the beds.
• fed with mineral fertilizers

On the horn depending on the location

Early varieties of garden strawberries

Spring is considered the best time to plant these varieties, but in fact it can be done in summer and autumn. Before this, it is important to add up to 70 g of superphosphate to the soil, up to 30 g of ammonium nitrate and up to 30 g of potassium salt per 1 m2.

Dig up the site a couple of weeks before planting. It is important that the earth is compacted by this time.

• Breeders around the world have tried to develop varieties suitable for growing even in the most unfavorable conditions of a short and cold summer.

• Early varieties include garden strawberries, cultivation, care, planting and ripening time of which falls in the spring. The most in demand are:
• To get rid of unnecessary attention to your wasp berries, cups with sweet compote are placed around.

In French, the word "remontant" means "to rise again" or "to bloom again." Remontant varieties of berries differ in their ability to bloom and delight with fruits throughout the season. This property is inherent in raspberries, strawberries, strawberries and even citrus crops. Gardeners are in particular demand for remontant strawberries, which bear fruit twice during growing season. And here they are easy to understand: who doesn’t like a double harvest of their favorite berry?

Mid-season varieties of strawberries

​Repair strawberries in a greenhouse require more care. Backlight is needed, if the days are short, should be adjusted artificial lighting. The more light, the more seeds will sprout. The entire container is covered with a transparent material - a film and installed in a room with room temperature. The first shoots will appear after 3 weeks, which are watered 1-2 times a week.​

• After the first year of planting, remontant strawberries from seeds, seedlings give in relation to the second fruiting only 30%, the second time 70%. Often after the first harvest, remontant strawberry bushes die. But if the first season was successful, the bushes live up to 3 years. For those who need to get large fruits, you need to abandon the first harvest. All flower stalks should be removed, and in the spring. The berries of the next harvest will be the same size as garden varieties.​
• When growing strawberries
• (Ammonium sulphate - 25 g, superphosphate - 20 g, potassium sulfate - 25-30 g), pour warm water under the root, loosen the bushes and lightly spud. If possible, hilling is replaced with bedding from rotted manure or sifted compost.

Terminal, apical and lower axillary inflorescences are formed

Late varieties of garden strawberries

Watering the remontant strawberries is done with warm water daily, as it loves moisture very much, after which the soil is necessarily loosened.

It's important to stick to correct scheme landing. Strawberries planted too close will give a small crop of small berries.

• A separate category includes remontant garden strawberries. Planting and caring for it is not difficult, but the crop is harvested throughout the season. This type includes:
• The American variety "Hanei", which ripens early and amicably, gives a high yield, is not afraid of pests, diseases and bad weather. The berries are suitable for both personal use and industrial cultivation.​

Remontant strawberry

It also happens that some bushes of this strawberry die after the first batch of harvest. At best conditions a remontant strawberry bush can last 3 years.

• Large-fruited remontant strawberries of different varieties grow well on open soil. To do this, you need to grow seedlings from seeds and plant them in early May on the site. The soil should first be loosened, cleaned of dry grass, weeds, fertilized and moistened the soil. In the holes you need to plant a bush, taken out of the container along with a clod of earth, carefully water and sprinkle the root system with a special preparation "Kornevin". The soil around the bush should be compacted so that there is no cavity left inside.
• To propagate strawberries through tendrils, the gardener needs to abandon the second crop, since the mustache takes strength from the main bushes, and berries cannot be expected. On the contrary, it is necessary to feed the earth with fertilizers, microelements, nutrients. Thus, strawberries will not waste energy on the formation of peduncles and rosettes.

under cover, you need to monitor the air temperature. If the temperature during the ripening of the berries there is above 25 ° C, the film is lifted to ventilate the plants.

Site selection and soil preparation for planting garden strawberries

Due to the laying of a large number of generative organs and the formation of many inflorescences, and hence berries,

, moreover, under conditions of a long day and high temperature, they develop very quickly, in 2-3 weeks, therefore remontant varieties are early. These varieties include

The only difference in the care of such varieties is the constant feeding of plants with nitrogen and potash fertilizers. Phosphorus fertilizers are enough to be applied to the soil at planting. Since several harvests greatly “exhaust” strawberries, providing them with useful substances is a guarantee of their survival.

Before frost, plants should be watered, loosen the soil and feed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

Domestic variety "garland". One of its most striking qualities is the continuous flowering and fruiting throughout the season, regardless of the weather and daylight hours. "Garland" gives large, juicy and fragrant berries How on suburban area, and when grown on balcony trellises or in flower pots. Easily adaptable and suitable for small summer cottages where space is saved.​

Variety "festival chamomile" comes from Ukraine, belongs to very early species. The first "wave" gives berries up to 50 g of weight, has high yield, excellent taste and strong aroma. This garden strawberry, planting and caring for which does not require much effort, is unmatched among early varieties.

Planting dates for garden strawberries in the fall

When planting in the fall, tearing off the first-order antennae from the bushes is highly discouraged. Instead, they should be rooted in disposable plastic cups filled with soil. Cups are collected at the end of the season, then they are separated from mother plant and planted in the garden. The distance between the bushes should be about 20 cm. They need to be watered quite a bit. Remontant strawberries should survive the first frosts, after which all the leaves from the bushes are cut off, and the bushes themselves are covered with something non-woven.

In order for the second harvest to be as rich as possible, it is necessary to be able to correctly limit the initial one. For this purpose, flower stalks are trimmed.

• During the growth, flowering and fruiting of remontant strawberries, the earth should be loosened, watered, fertilizers added, and weeds removed.
• Modern gardeners, unlike their older colleagues, can easily purchase remontant strawberry seeds and seedlings. In a specialized store or agricultural company, there are many varieties of crops that bear fruit several times a season. Each of them has its own unique properties. Gardeners prefer varieties that are especially sweet and tasty, with hard and fleshy large berries. In addition to taste, the resistance of the culture to microbes, diseases, and transportation is taken into account.​
• The rest of the care for strawberries is the same as in open ground: loosen the soil, remove weeds, water the bushes
• Remontant varieties need very fertile soil and good care
• Ada, Mount Everest, Sakhalinskaya, Red Rich, Selva, Moscow delicacy, Cleter, Star, Geneva
• The first flowers in young plants are recommended to be plucked - then the second harvest will be a tasty and large berry. Remontant strawberries bear fruit for 2-3 years, subject to constant feeding, frequent watering and regular loosening of the soil.

Before the onset of frost, it is necessary to mulch the aisle. Leaves or straw are suitable for this.

The American cultivar 'Brighton' is excellent for commercial cultivation as it bears fruit 10 months of the year. Gives a high yield of large berries up to 50 g of weight, does not depend on the length of the day and the weather. On the contrary, on cloudy days and autumn coolness, the berries become even more bigger size. Winter-hardy and resistant to pests and diseases variety.

Planting strawberries in spring

The Kent variety from Canada is preferred by those who like to get two crops in a summer. Young rosettes of this strawberry give a second harvest in late August-September. The berries are juicy, large, suitable for conservation and fresh consumption.

Today there are few gardeners who would not grow strawberries on their plots. Garden strawberries, planting and caring for which have become commonplace even in regions with short and cool summers, do not require the closest possible attention. The main thing is that the varieties are selected according to the climate and soil composition.

People who are attracted to growing remontant strawberries should be aware that planting and care is done in a certain way.

In pest control, solutions of garlic diluted with water are used. Three heads of garlic are bred with 1 bucket clean water. Infuse for a day, spray and water around the bushes. Scarecrows, rustling packages will help you from annoying sweet-toothed birds. If ants bother, they also don't like the smell of garlic. The wasps will be distracted from the sweet berry by jars of sweet compote, which should be placed around the perimeter of the area with large-fruited remontant strawberries.

Popular brands include:

warm water under the root. The tunnels are removed with the onset of frost.

Remontant and beardless garden strawberries

. Until green berries appear, the bushes are fed every 10-14 days with infusion of slurry (1: 8) with the addition of 200-250 g of ash per 10 liters of water. Feeding consumption - 10 liters per 5 running meters row.​

The remontant garden strawberry is in great demand among gardeners. Planting and caring for it does not differ from other remontant varieties, but it is practically not susceptible to pest attack, tolerates winter better and rarely gets sick.

For the winter, young strawberries should be covered with spruce branches or brushwood.

To date, breeders have been able to breed varieties so that garden strawberries grow on plots. Planting and care, pest control are minimized. It is important when planting to choose the right place and fertilize the soil so that further cultivation strawberries has become a favorite thing, not troublesome.

It is advisable to “dilute” early varieties on the site with mid-season varieties in order to get a crop throughout the summer.

Today on domestic market and abroad there are up to 5000 species of this plant. Planting, care, varieties of garden strawberries (strawberries) depend on and are conventionally divided according to ripening time. To enjoy this delicious berry all summer, you can plant early, medium and late varieties, if the size of the site and the climate allow it. The optimal number of species in one area is considered to be 5 varieties of different ripening periods.​

Propagation of strawberries

As usual, the first step is to select the desired variety. This can only be done by sampling the berries, so you should grow a few at once, and then make the final choice.​

This variety is especially attractive for those who like to grow remontant strawberries at home.

Strawberry remontant Queen Elizabeth;

Repair strawberries can freeze even in autumn

At the beginning of mass flowering (late July - early August) to improve setting and increase the mass of the first

Remontant strawberry cultivation tricks, care

• Varieties neutral day

Among these varieties, there are varieties that are not affected by the length of daylight hours. They can be grown outdoors, indoors, and even at home in flower pots. For winter shelter, you can use corn stalks, which will allow the plants to "breathe", but at the same time will warm them.

The most important actions aimed at growing beautiful and delicious strawberries, - landing and care. Strawberries (garden strawberries) are demanding in terms of location, lighting and soil quality. Mid-season varieties are suitable for those areas where spring is later and heat is established by the end of May. Growing garden strawberries, planting and caring for them do not differ from the work that is usually carried out on berry plot. These include: When choosing a variety, first of all, you need to consider: For planting remontant strawberries, the most suitable soil is used for growing vegetables. To prepare such soil, it is necessary to 1 kg land mixture add 750 ml of water, and then mix thoroughly (there should be no lumps), then its moisture content will be 70-80%.

Strawberry "Fresco" remontant; when the frost hits, and there is still little snow. Therefore, after removing the film, the plants are fed with wood ash at the rate of 1 tbsp. spoon on a bush, loosen with a bayonet, spud or cover with humus or peat to a height of 8-10 cm, lifting the leaves. You can mulch the beds with dry sawdust with a layer of 5 cm. On top of the mulch, the beds must be covered with the first snow. Sheltered strawberries are not afraid of winter thaws and spring frosts.

The berries of the plant are treated with a solution of boron, manganese and zinc, 2 g per 10 liters of water. All sprayings are done in the evening or on cloudy but not rainy days. ​Differing from remontants and regular short-day varieties in that they can be programmed to produce berries approximately three months after planting throughout the year (if grown in a greenhouse). In the conditions of the Non-Black Earth Region, they bear fruit from late June to late autumn. These include Tristar, Tribute, Ulster, Brighton, Hummi Genta. But when cultivating these varieties, gardeners have difficulties with reproduction, because they (with the exception of the Tristar variety) form few mustaches and rosettes.

The most popular ways of propagating garden strawberries are dividing the bush and planting mustache shoots.

In order to grow healthy and high-yielding garden strawberries, planting and care in spring are carried out differently than in autumn.

Most varieties love the sun, and even a slight shade can affect the yield of the plant. Therefore, it is better to plant strawberries in open space, away from trees and their shadows. The domestic fireworks variety, which has bisexual flowers and produces large fragrant and tasty berries, tolerates transportation well and is suitable for both commercial and personal cultivation. The variety is frost-resistant and high-yielding.

Its requirements for the composition of the soil; The next step is to fill a dense container (10-15 cm in diameter) with pre-prepared soil, about 3 cm of space must be left on top. Advantages of the brand:

beardless remontant strawberry;

Tatyana Nikitochkina, Dmitry Nikitochkin, candidates of agricultural sciences Against slugs and grape snails

Having received the first harvest, you should take care of the second

The second way is the most natural for this plant. For it, the strongest and most fruitful mother bushes at the age of 2-3 years are used, from which shoots are taken after harvesting. It is important to take the sprouts closest to the main bush, as they are stronger, which means they will take root quickly and without problems.

If strawberries are planted in the spring by seedlings, then it should be remembered that they cannot be kept for more than 2 days, but it is better to plant them immediately in a pre-prepared and fertilized place. In this case, it should be borne in mind that strawberries are best suited Smooth surface or with a very slight slope with south side area protected from drafts and flooding.​

The English "lord" is preferred by those gardeners who have a small plot, as it can be grown in one place without the risk of reducing yields up to 10 years. Produces large, sweet and fragrant berries with an extended ripening period, which are stored for a long time and easily tolerate transportation. Belongs to the universal variety.​

drought and frost resistance; Strawberry seeds are scattered on top, then they should be sprinkled with dry earth and sprinkled with water from a spray bottle. In order for as many sprouts as possible to appear, sunlight must fall on the seeds. Frost resistance.

hanging;

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, which are sometimes more than usual, pollinate the soil along the rows of plants with tobacco dust mixed with ash or slaked lime(1:1) at the rate of 20-25 g / mg. In dry weather, against slugs, you can sprinkle dry superphosphate around a strawberry plantation or garden bed. (August-September). To enhance re-blooming, it is advisable to mow or cut the leaves immediately after harvesting the first summer crop, without damaging the apical bud.

The division of the bush is carried out in strawberries aged 2 to 4 years, which have a well-developed and healthy rhizome. The division of the bush is carried out in spring or autumn, for which it is dug up, cut in half and planted in prepared holes. It is important that each piece has a rosette with leaves.​

In order for the plant to quickly adapt and take root, experienced gardeners dip its roots into clay slurry. During planting, it is necessary to straighten the roots so that they are not tangled with each other, and insert them into a well-moistened planting hole. Only the roots are sprinkled, so planting deep garden strawberries is not recommended.

Groundwater close to the surface (less than 80 cm) can also adversely affect the yield and quality of berries, so in this case, strawberries should be planted on raised beds. for which it suits even those who come to the country only on weekends. Gives a very high yield of beautiful and delicious berries, which do not shrink even by the end of the season. It tolerates winter well, is resistant to fungal diseases and gray rot.

resistance to diseases and pests;

• Containers on top must be covered with a transparent polyethylene film and placed in a warm place. At the end of 3 weeks, the first shoots will show themselves, they require periodic watering.

Long fruiting period.

It is necessary to start work on transplanting strawberries in the spring as early as possible, immediately after the snow has melted and there is no danger of night frosts. Usually favorable conditions for transplantation develop already in early April. But you can also postpone transplanting work to the end of April - the beginning of May, but during this period strawberries will grow much more slowly.

And yet autumn is the most better time for transplanting strawberries. At the beginning of autumn, it is still warm enough for the bushes to get stronger and take root before the onset of frost, but there is no longer a burning sun that threatens the delicate leaves. sunburn.

Transplanting strawberries to a new place: when and how

The best time to transplant strawberries is between September and October.

Planting victoria in autumn

One of the popular varieties of large-fruited garden strawberries is called Victoria. In summer, it flaunts on the beds of most summer cottages, since the requirements for its cultivation are not too high, and a bountiful harvest more than pays for all the effort expended. This berry is planted both in spring and in autumn. Consider in the article how to properly plant Victoria in the fall so that it does not suffer in the winter and pleases with juicy fragrant fruits in the summer.

Choosing a site for planting victoria

This berry belongs to remontant varieties, which allows you to delay the planting of Victoria until late autumn. However, it is better to avoid extremes, after all, the plant must have time to take root, otherwise there is a high risk that the bushes will die in winter or give an extremely low yield in the first year. Victoria landing is carried out on a well-lit, flat area, closed from the winds. If you grow plants in a lowland, they often get sick and give low yields. Also in the lowlands it often happens high humidity, which negatively affects the winter hardiness of garden strawberries. The windy area is especially dangerous for winter period- if the wind blows snow from the site, then the plants will die from frost.

Victoria's predecessors

Victoria is a picky berry in planting in terms of crop rotation. Being perennial plant, she does not live in one place for more than 4 years and requires a transplant. The plant will take root well if legumes, beets, onions, carrots, oats, rye, dill and garlic grew on the site before it. It is strictly necessary to avoid such predecessors as cucumbers, cabbage, potatoes, tomatoes, nightshade and strawberries. The area where strawberries have already grown will be unsuitable for planting Victoria for at least 5 years.

Soil preparation for autumn planting

Before planting Victoria in the fall, you need to take care of summer training soil. Usually, gardeners a month before the intended planting add humus to the soil (about 3 kg per square meter) and dig it up, then level it and trample it down. It is important to get rid of the roots of other plants and insect larvae during digging.

How and when should strawberries be transplanted?

Sandy loamy soil is ideal for Victoria, so sand is often added when digging.

Rules for planting garden strawberries victoria

Directly planting Victoria in the fall is no different from planting in another season. The soil is loosened to a depth of about 8 cm, furrows are made in it and they are watered abundantly. Correct fit Victoria requires the following distances between bushes - 25 cm between plants in one row and 60 cm between beds. If the roots of Victoria exceed 7 cm, they should be cut. It is important to lower the roots vertically into the ground to ensure the rapid growth of the root system, and place the apical bud strictly at ground level. The Victoria planting technology involves further compaction of the soil near the bush, watering it and mulching it with sawdust with a layer of 5 cm. strawberries.

Care for Victoria planted in autumn

It cannot be said that caring for Victoria requires some intricate actions. In dry weather, watering is required, it is also necessary to loosen the soil around the bushes and weed it. As for the care after the autumn planting, it is important to take care of the shelter of the plants from frost. Do not rush when the first autumn frosts begin, give Victoria the opportunity to experience them for herself, in some way to harden. When the temperature drops to -6 ° C, you can cover the plants, for example, cover them autumn leaves a layer of 15 cm. Be sure to remove the shelter in early spring so that the plants do not rot and die.

Who among summer gardeners does not wait for summer to enjoy strawberries from their garden? And so that the garden will please year after year excellent harvests, strawberries need to be properly looked after, in particular, transplanted on time. You can learn about when you can transplant strawberries from our article.

When should strawberries be transplanted?

The need to transplant young strawberry shoots usually arises in the fourth year after planting, when the old bushes finally weaken and are not able to give a full harvest.

When else can you transplant strawberries?

You can transplant strawberries, in principle, at any convenient time - in summer, and in autumn, and in spring. Naturally, for transplanting work, dormant periods are chosen when strawberries do not bloom and do not bear fruit.

When to transplant strawberries in spring?

It is necessary to start work on transplanting strawberries in the spring as early as possible, immediately after the snow has melted and there is no danger of night frosts. Usually favorable conditions for transplantation develop already in early April.

Strawberries in autumn - planting, transplanting, feeding and care

But you can also postpone transplanting work to the end of April - the beginning of May, but during this period strawberries will grow much more slowly.

When to transplant strawberries in summer?

In summer, strawberries should be transplanted in late July - early August, choosing cool evenings for this and watering the beds abundantly to prevent them from drying out. To land on strawberry patch did not take the crust, its surface should be mulched.

When is the best time to transplant strawberries in the fall?

And yet autumn is the best time to transplant strawberries. At the beginning of autumn, it is still warm enough for the bushes to get stronger and take root before the onset of frost, but there is no longer a burning sun that threatens the delicate leaves with sunburn. The best time to transplant strawberries is between September and October.

Summer strawberry transplant

You can transplant strawberries both in early autumn and in summer time. The process of transplanting strawberries in the summer is not much more difficult, but requires some additional knowledge. In this article we will consider the basic rules and advice of experienced gardeners.

Can strawberries be transplanted in summer?

Beginners in gardening do not always dare to transplant or plant plants in general. summer period for fear of ruining the seedlings. Therefore, the question of whether it is possible to transplant strawberries in the summer quite naturally arises sooner or later for any summer resident. Meanwhile, it is quite acceptable to rejuvenate strawberries in the summer, the main thing is to do it at the right time, in the right weather and in accordance with all the rules. But not every bush is worth disturbing. The fact is that strawberries should be transplanted only when the mother bush is ready for this. To understand how many years to transplant strawberries, you should familiarize yourself with the characteristics of this plant.

In the first year after planting seedlings, strawberries adapt and gain strength in order to please you with a bountiful harvest next season. And then within two years you will be able to harvest berries. After three years, the bush becomes old and the fruiting is significantly reduced, and this is where it comes time to transplant.

You can transplant strawberries in the summer and thereby rejuvenate the mother bush, but this should be done correctly. Below we will consider the basic rules and subtleties of this case.

How to transplant strawberries in summer?

So, for starters, you should wait until the harvest is completed. It is also necessary to prepare and choose a bush correctly.

When can strawberries be transplanted?

Different varieties give a different number of shoots. If the variety you have chosen is valuable and there is a desire to propagate it, it leaves only two or three shoots. Large quantity will simply deplete the mother bush.

As soon as fruiting is completed, we begin to feed the young. At this very time, you choose strong bushes and leave several powerful shoots on them. Experienced summer residents always adhere to two basic rules: never work on a hot day and choose exceptionally strong and well-rooted bushes.

Now consider the basic tips on how to transplant strawberries in the summer:

• a change of place is required (carrots, beets with radishes, onions and garlic, celery and lettuce are considered the best predecessors);
• the soil under strawberries is depleted very quickly, so the land must be fertile, and top dressing should be regular and timely;
• if summer is dry and hot in your latitudes, look for places between tree plantings, otherwise the berries may burn;
• ideally, transplanting should begin at the very end of summer, when the weather is cloudy and occasional light rain pours;
• many gardeners advise choosing exactly two-year-old seedlings.

Before transplanting strawberries in the summer, the selected area is dug up and fertilized. The best additives will be either rotted manure or compost. Then they dig up the site again and begin the landing.

They prepare not only the soil, but also holes for each bush. This preparation lies in right choice size: the depth should be sufficient so that the roots can hang freely. Between plantings, the distance is about 40 cm. As soon as the hole is ready, it is watered abundantly and a bush is immediately planted.

As for planting material, it must be freshly dug up. Don't let the roots dry out. Two bushes are planted in each planting hole. Never bury them too deep to avoid rotting. Next, you should especially carefully care for the first few weeks and properly prepare for wintering.

Proper planting of strawberries

How to plant strawberries in order to get a big and tasty harvest. June is the month of strawberries, because the most fragrant and sweet berry. To enjoy your berry, you need to plant strawberry bushes correctly and on time. Let's figure out together how to do it right and when to plant a strawberry mustache.

What variety of strawberries to plant?

There are quite a few varieties of strawberries. To stretch fruiting and get berries during the summer, choose varieties with different terms maturation. Varieties differ not only in fruiting time, but also in the size, taste and shape of the berries.

It should be remembered that some varieties produce large berries, but there are only 2-3 of them on a bush. Other varieties, with an average size of berries, will give a lot of berries on one bush. We choose seedlings correctly

Choosing the right seedling

When buying strawberry seedlings, pay attention to the bushes. Good strawberry bushes should have 3-4 leaves, a good lobe of roots. Do not buy old bushes that have already exposed horns. Seedlings must be young!

When to plant strawberries?

Strawberries are usually planted in early spring or autumn. In spring, bushes are planted from early May - until the end of April.

In autumn, strawberries are planted from August 15 to September 20. However, most people traditionally plant the berry in the spring in order to get the first fruits almost immediately.

Where to plant strawberries?

Strawberries grow best in fertile loose soils. They do not like strawberry bushes of shading and close standing of groundwater.

If you plant strawberries on a slope, then choose a southwestern warm slope for it.

How to plant strawberries

When planting seedlings with open roots, you need to make such a hole so that the roots of the bush do not wrap, but are evenly distributed. In the case of seedlings in closed pots, the holes must be made according to the size of the earthy coma.

It is important to ensure that when planting a strawberry bush, the heart is not buried. If after watering the seedlings sagged slightly, then it is better to immediately raise it a little.

Strawberries are almost never propagated with seeds, since the seeds will not retain the signs of the mother plant !!!

When planting, choose how best to place the bushes: in rows, in a checkerboard pattern or in double ribbons.

Some summer residents prefer to grow strawberries on a special material - geotextiles. In this case, there are not so many weeds, but it will be more difficult to root mustaches from mother plants.

strawberry seedling care

Strawberries are easier to plant than to care for.

How to transplant strawberries in the fall

Plantation care consists of numerous weeding, loosening, timely watering and top dressing.

It is also necessary to constantly remove the whiskers that grow on strawberries all summer. If you do not trim the mustache, then the berries will become smaller, and the plants will grow in a carpet.

It is important to protect strawberries from pests and diseases. Processing must be carried out in a timely manner.

Remember, it is impossible to grow strawberries in one place for more than 4-5 years.

How to plant strawberries in spring?

There are not many people in the world who would be indifferent to strawberries. But those who would like to acquire their own strawberry plantation are probably much more. We will talk today about whether it is possible to plant strawberries in the spring and how to do it correctly.

Can strawberries be planted in spring?

As with most perennials, strawberries can be propagated in autumn and spring. Autumn (more precisely, late summer, as it takes place in the last decade of August) planting justifies itself in regions with a warm climate and mild winters. In more severe conditions, it is recommended to plant strawberries in the spring, so that the bushes have time to take root and grow stronger before the autumn weather deteriorates. But you should not wait for a full-fledged harvest in the year of spring planting.

How to plant strawberries in spring?

Step 1 - find the right place

In order for strawberries to feel at ease in the garden, you need to choose the right place for planting them. It is best if the site is located on a small hill, oriented to the southwest. The soil must be both loose and nutritious, and also protected from the possible accumulation of melt or groundwater. In this case, you must definitely pay attention to the plants that grew in this place last season. Ideal predecessors for strawberries would be legumes, root crops or green manure, but planting strawberries after nightshade is highly discouraged.

Step 2 - prepare the garden

Strawberries are rather "gluttonous" plants that require an increased amount of nutrients. Therefore, in the fall, the planned site must be dug up, carefully selecting the remains of weeds from the ground, and at the same time introducing organic matter (humus or rotted manure) and mineral complexes into the soil. Particular attention should be paid to the acidity of the soil - it should be no more than 5.5-6.0 pH.

Step 3 - choose a landing method

Strawberries can be planted in the spring both in the traditional (uncovered) way and on agrofibre. For traditional planting, choose one of the following bed planning options:

1. Planting in separate bushes. At the same time, strawberries are planted at intervals of 50-65 cm, and then mustaches and weeds are carefully removed. This is a rather laborious method, but it justifies itself due to High Quality harvest.
2. Planting in rows. Strawberries are planted in rows at intervals of 20 cm between bushes and 40 cm between rows. Care, as in the previous case, requires a lot of effort.
3. Nest planting. Strawberries are planted in the shape of a hexagon, with one plant in the center and the other six at a distance of 10 cm from it.

   When to transplant strawberries

   This method makes sense when there is a need to place a large amount of planting material in a small area.

4. Carpet planting. With this method, the mustache is not removed and the strawberries grow in a “wild” way, forming a kind of carpet.

How to plant strawberries in the spring on agrofibre?

Landing on agrofibre is carried out as follows:

How deep to plant strawberries in spring?

Placing a bush when planting at the desired depth is one of the keys to a successful survival of seedlings. The most important rule is that the “heart” of a strawberry rosette should in no case be below the soil level. It is optimal if it rises a little above the bed, or in extreme cases is flush with it.

Remontant strawberries bear fruit several times a year or even throughout the season. So I got one at my dacha 4 years ago. Now it's time to transplant it, so in this article we will consider in detail how strawberries are transplanted.

Once a neighbor came to me with a large bucket of 25 liters in her hands and said:
“I planted my strawberries ... there are a lot left, take them. Plant in a damp place - you will eat berries until the frost, just do not forget to water. It reproduces with antennae for the first year, and all subsequent years only the rhizome grows. Therefore, after a few years, strawberries will have to be planted. ”

Of course, I was delighted with such a visit. I found a suitable place and planted saplings, which began to take root to the last - a considerable bed turned out. And at the same time she thought how many of these strawberries she had, that so many remained after the transplant.

Strawberries turned out to be not simple, but ... no, not golden. Usually such varieties are called remontant, but for mine this name is not entirely suitable. There is such a thing as a strawberry of a neutral day, or more correctly called a garden strawberry of a neutral day. It differs from remontant in that immediately after planting, it begins to lay buds for the next crop, not paying attention to the length of daylight hours or the time of year. Even planted in autumn in November, it can bloom and even some berries will ripen if the temperature allows.

For the winter, strawberries of a neutral day go green and with flowers. The spectacle, of course, is still something ... there is snow all around, and strawberry flowers stick out of it. If there was a greenhouse, it would be possible to harvest berries all year round.

I didn’t particularly plant strawberries - I mulched, watered from time to time and that’s all. No dressings, treatments with drugs or other manipulations. Berries were enjoyed from the beginning of spring until the very cold. 4 years have passed, the bushes have grown so that the berries began to shrink, the thickened plantings began to suffer from diseases. I had to seriously think about how to seat them.

When is the best time to transplant

It is customary to transplant strawberries either in autumn or early spring.

Transplanting strawberries in the fall considered more preferable. After all, for the remaining warm days, strawberry bushes have time to take root, get stronger, and during the winter, by spring, the root system develops well. And in the spring you can enjoy the first harvest.

If you decide to transplant in the fall, then know that you need to finish transplanting strawberries 20 days before the soil freezes. Although there are situations when plants planted at a later date also take root well and give a bountiful harvest. But for this, favorable wintering conditions must be met - under a snow layer of 20 cm or more. As a last resort, it is necessary to cover the landings with spruce branches, sawdust, needles or other mulch and do not forget to remove it in the spring.

Transplanting strawberries in spring is less popular, since in this case a quick harvest is excluded. Ordinary strawberries do not bear fruit at all, and remontant strawberries will begin to yield only closer to the middle of summer. If you decide to transplant strawberries in the spring, it is better to do it early, even before the flower stalks appear. If time is lost, and flower stalks have already appeared, then they must be removed during transplantation so that the plant does not waste energy on maintaining them.

In my case, everything happened completely out of technology. It did not work out to meet the deadlines for transplanting strawberries. I was going to plant bushes in the fall, as expected. But the vicissitudes with the weather did not allow this to be done. At first it was hot, hot, very hot for transplanting, we were afraid that the strawberries would just burn. And then it got too cold. And so my strawberry garden went untransplanted into the winter. Spring came ... only it came for a long time, until May itself, so when the weather allowed us to come to the dacha, everything that could bloom was already in full bloom. And all at once and at the same time: and an apricot, and a cherry, and a sweet cherry, and an apple tree, and a strawberry.

I looked at my strawberries and realized that I was ready to sacrifice this year's crop, but it needed to be transplanted right now. Because if not now, then when?

The weather turned out to be successful, the temperature was +14 +18°С, not too hot, the soil was moist. Nature itself seemed to be pushing that it was time to start planting, not postponing for the fall.

Preparing the soil and planting material for transplanting

Strawberry is a moisture-loving plant. Therefore, for transplanting, I chose a low place on a site without perennial weeds, especially with strong roots. It is also important that the site is not flooded in the spring, otherwise the plants may rot.

Growing remontant strawberries is recommended on fertile, well-drained soil, sandy loam, for example. After all, for constant fruiting, the plant draws all the nutrients from the ground. So that the soil does not quickly deplete, before transplanting to the site, it is necessary to fertilize 6 - 8 kg of humus per 1 m 2 and two glasses of wood ash. If the soil is heavy, then you can add 1 - 2 buckets of sand.

When preparing the site, it is necessary to try to remove strawberry pests from it - the larvae of May beetles and wireworms.

The main feature of neutral day strawberries is the absence of mustaches or aerial shoots that take root in the soil. When it comes time to plant a bush, it is a large cluster of strawberry sprouts, each of which has its own small roots and is attached to a central lignified root. In the photo, you can clearly see what a dug-up bush of remontant strawberries looks like.

How to prepare strawberries for transplanting:

• First, we completely dig out the bush and shake off most of the earth.
• Then we carefully try to disassemble the rhizome by processes. If necessary, it can be torn off from the central root. The main thing at the same time is that personal roots remain on the process, at least 5-7 cm long. If a very small root remains - 1-2 cm, the seedling may not take root or will soon die.
• We cut off the old leaves from the shoot and if there are peduncles, we leave only a couple of young leaves. This is enough for the bush to take root well. We pay attention that the leaves are healthy, without signs of damage by diseases or pests.
• We dip the root part of the process into a container with a chatter and leave it for 1 - 2 hours.

Thus, several dozen future strawberry bushes can be soaked for a while. Usually they use earthen or clay chatter, but I came up with a better recipe.

A drug "Fitosporin-M" not only fights late blight and other fungal diseases well, it is also a valuable humic fertilizer. Having soaked the roots of strawberry seedlings in the Fitosporin-M solution, we not only disinfect the roots and prevent the development of diseases, but also nourish the plant with valuable substances.

After a couple of hours, you can start planting strawberries in open ground.

Carpet and ordinary landing method

When choosing a method for planting remontant strawberries, it is necessary first of all to take into account the convenience of harvesting.

The carpet method assumes that the plants will be at a distance of 20x20 cm from each other. Those. in a row between bushes there will be 20 cm, and between rows - 20 cm. Over the years, the bush grows and fills the free space. For normal fruiting, 10–15 cm should remain between the garden strawberry bushes. When growing in a carpet way, the soil will have to be fertilized every year in different ways.

The ordinary method differs in that the distance between plants in a row is 20 - 25 cm, and between rows is 70 cm. Usually, the free aisle is filled with young bushes that have taken root from the mustache. But after all, we have remontant strawberries, which means that we will have to focus on the fact that the bush will grow in diameter.

As a result of a simple analysis, it turns out that a carpet or solid method is suitable for planting strawberries of neutral day varieties.

Landing technology:

• We dig holes at a distance of 20 - 25 cm from each other. You can use a small garden spatula. The depth of the hole is 10 - 15 cm. Focus on the length of the roots of the seedling that you are going to plant. If you see that the root is voluminous and long, as it happened more than once with me, then make a larger hole so as not to injure the rhizome too much.

• We take out a seedling of strawberries / strawberries from a container with a chatter and lower it into the hole. We lay out a few seedlings like this. One seedling for each hole.

Important! If the seedlings are small with short roots, you can plant two in one hole at once.

• Fill the hole with water and wait until it is absorbed. It is extremely important that the water, as it were, draws the roots into the ground.

• Then fill the hole with soil. At the same time, we make sure that root collar strawberry seedlings were always on top or at the level of the soil. We try not to deepen it.
• We compact the soil around the root system.
• We water the bush again.

For watering strawberry seedlings, you can use the Fitosporin-M solution or other top dressing.

The procedure for all seedlings is the same. Don't be scared if it's too much. Remember, at the beginning of the article, I wondered how much the neighbor of this strawberry had, that there were so many left? So I was convinced from my own experience that initially it could not have been much. After transplanting, my strawberry plantation has grown considerably and has increased 5-6 times. It's good that I had so much free land. But I will go to the next transplant with a large bucket for the neighbors.

Caring for transplanted bushes

Strawberries are moisture sensitive. Therefore, timely watering is the main agricultural technique. Especially in summer, when the heat is +30 °C. After all, strawberries like a temperate climate more - not too warm + 15 - + 18 ° С and humid. So you need to try to create at least some comfortable conditions. To do this, the soil must always be moist at a depth of 2 - 3 cm.

The easiest way to achieve this is mulch plantings. In addition to the fact that the mulch will save life-giving moisture, it will restrain the growth of weeds, and you will not have to weed often. Yes, and loosening after the rain is also not necessary. The earth will always be moist, airy and permeable.

As a mulch for garden strawberries, you can use straw, sunflower or buckwheat husks, wood shavings, humus, needles, hay and other materials.

I use regular hay and am very satisfied. During the summer, you have to add mulch a couple of times, as it settles and rots slowly. And during the winter, the hay decomposed completely, saturating the upper fertile layer with useful substances.

If ordinary strawberries can be fed only once a year, then care for remontant strawberries is somewhat different. After all, she bears fruit all the time.
In early spring carry out the first dressing using complex fertilizers. And then every 3-4 weeks we make preparations for the root or foliar feeding, but they must not contain nitrogen. Processing strawberries on a leaf works well.

If for some reason you do not want or cannot mulch strawberry plantings, then remember that it is necessary to remove weeds from the site in time, they take away nutrients. After each rain or watering, it is necessary to loosen the soil so that a crust does not form.

It is also important to treat strawberries with antifungal drugs, otherwise you can lose not only the crop, but the entire plantation of plants.

In one place, garden strawberries remontant abundantly bear fruit for 3-4 years. With good care, this period can be extended to 5 - 7 years, after which the strawberries must be transplanted to another site. Strawberries can be returned to the old place no earlier than after five years.

Gives growth. In this case, leaves, mustaches and peduncles appear. In the fourth year of life, the growth stops, the yield decreases. In order to get a good harvest of large and ripe berries again, it is necessary to rejuvenate the plant. For this, it is carried out in the spring, it is uprooted, the young rosettes of the plant are transferred to a new place. For propagation of strawberries, a bright, well-ventilated area is selected. It is not recommended to grow this crop under shrubs and trees.

Young rosettes are chosen as seedlings, which are formed on long tendril shoots. They grow from the mother plant, so they are no different from it. Seedlings should be no older than three years old, they are sufficiently formed and have a developed root system, while the plant is not yet “tired”, it will produce abundant inflorescences with subsequent fruits.

Strawberries are transplanted in the spring so that the plant has time not only to take root, but also to adapt to a new place and conditions. This culture does not grow well in shady places, but it is unpretentious to soils. Of course, it is desirable that the earth be slightly acidic loamy. In the event that the groundwater is shallow or the place chosen for planting strawberries is swampy, it is recommended to make good drainage. If the soil has an acidic pH, then you can carry out such a simple manipulation as liming.

A strawberry transplant in the spring (early May) is very effective. Some experienced gardeners break up a plot a year before planting and sow it with peas or beans. In a relatively short period of time, a large amount of minerals, especially nitrogen, will accumulate in the soil. In autumn, legumes are harvested and the earth is dug up. Two months before planting, that is, in the month of March, it is necessary to prepare the soil. To do this, we dig it up again, mixing it abundantly with humus. Since strawberries are transplanted in the spring, when the soils are especially poor in minerals, it is recommended, in addition to organic fertilizers, to add superphosphate and potassium-containing substances to the ground. During the day after planting, the land is watered abundantly.

The most favorable planting of strawberries in the spring in cloudy weather. At seedlings, antennae and yellowed leaves are cut off. The sockets should already have a good root system. Many gardeners recommend shaking off the remnants of the earth from the roots. After that, the roots are cut to a quarter of their length. Before planting, they are dipped in a pre-prepared solution, which includes clay and manure.

Strawberries are planted in even rows at a distance of 25 centimeters from each other, both in length and in width. In some cases, landing is carried out in two lines at a distance of 30 centimeters, as a rule, this method is used to save space. After all the seedlings have been moved to open ground, the bed is watered abundantly. The earth is sprinkled with peat on top. Sometimes If strawberries are planted in the fall, it is better to pick up a special mulching material that is left in the garden for the winter.