Fir - planting and care. Sunshet Agrosuccess - protecting plants from sunburn and drought How to transplant fir from the forest
Pine on the site can be planted anywhere - this is the most unpretentious plant from all conifers. Pine can grow on such poor soils that no other can grow on. large plant. The same goes for sunlight.
Unlike pine, which can thrive in sunny open spaces, fir and spruce gravitate more to shaded areas on the site.
And if pines can be planted with south side house or garage, then it is better to plant on the north side of the building. This is especially true for regions with hot and often dry summers, when it is not possible to regularly water coniferous plants.
Even with regular watering, transplanted spruces and firs often dry out in the second year and lose needles a lot, despite the fact that in the first year after transplanting they felt pretty good.
How to protect coniferous trees on the site
To coniferous trees on the site did not suffer from hot summers, you can protect them in accessible ways:
1. Plant conifers in groups, especially fir and spruce. You can protect a group of firs and spruces from the south side with young birches or lindens, whose foliage in summer will serve as a kind of shield from the rays of the scorching sun.
2. Can be on summer period fence conifers trees light slit shields on the south side, which will give a moving shadow during the day.
3. Try to plant spruces and firs also on the western side - there they will not be harmed by the summer sun at sunset.
When choosing a place for planting fir trees, it is necessary to take into account the type of planting:
- In alleys, the distance between plants should be 4-5 m,
- In groups, fir trees are planted 3-3.5 m apart,
- In hedges, seedlings are placed in a checkerboard pattern, leaving up to 2.5 m between them.
The largest area is needed for balsam fir, surrounding itself with young shoots.
Fir can be planted or transplanted in spring (in April) or in autumn (from late August to early October). Almost all types of firs like moist (without waterlogging), deep, rich and well-drained loams. If the water in the area stagnates, this can lead to a slowdown in the growth of firs and their damage to various fungal diseases.
Fir trees are quite shade-tolerant, so both sunny and shady places are suitable for planting, but they acquire a typical crown shape only when good lighting. However, one must not forget that in winter time young plants need shading, since closer to spring (with an increase in daylight hours), their needles may suffer from the sun.
Fir trees are wind-resistant plants, but powerful, deep root system develops in deep soils. In mountainous areas or on heavy clay substrates, the development of the main root may be suspended and the root system is formed branched and superficial, which often causes a decrease in wind resistance of plants. In particular, the surface root system is characteristic of balsam fir (Picea balsamea) and subalpine fir (Abies lasiocarpa).
How to plant a fir
For planting fir, it is preferable to choose cloudy, warm days, and it is best to plant fir in the rain. It is desirable to take 5-7-year-old plants as planting material. Preparation of the seat begins at least 2 weeks before planting seedlings.
A hole is dug 60-80 cm deep. Its width depends on the size of the root system of the selected plant. When planting fir on heavy clay soils, drainage from broken bricks or gravel should be made at the bottom of the pit (you can use cans and beer cans, laying them in a layer of 20 cm).
The bottom of the pit must be loosened to a depth of 10-15 cm and filled halfway with a nutrient mixture, which includes:
- Clay soil (2 parts)
- Leaf ground or humus (3 parts)
- Peat (1 part)
- River sand (1 part)
Then you need to add sawdust (10 kg), nitroammofoska (200-300 g) and mix again.
After that, they form a mound, sprinkle it on top with garden soil (already without fertilizers) and, placing the roots horizontally, plant a plant on it. The pit is also covered with garden soil, making sure that the root collar of the seedling is at the level of the soil surface.
Details on planting trees can be found in the video tutorial: How to plant a tree correctly. Follow the link and see - everything is very clear and detailed.
We plant thuja in the fall, we do it right
The advantages of this plant are that it is relatively unpretentious in terms of the amount of moisture and soil quality.
Thuja is photophilous, so it is very important to choose a place suitable for planting where the plant will feel comfortable. It will also grow in a shady area, but in this case it will be rare and lose its splendor and decorative appeal.
When shearing, this plant is given various forms suitable for a particular composition - for example, in the form of a ball, or vice versa - a tall tree.
Thuja is often called the Tree of Life, because this plant is used for medicinal purposes - it contains useful essential oils.
Although the thuja is unpretentious in relation to the soil, it is still better to choose fertile and well-permeable soils. It is favorable for this plant when there is enough moisture, otherwise the thuja begins to turn yellow and crumble.
If you come to the choice right place in order to plant this plant in compliance with all requirements, it will need only minimal care, while always remaining an evergreen decoration of the landscape.
Learn all about the fastest growing tree species.
Don't know how to drain flowers? Read this article.
Planting process
Make sure the root collar is level with the ground.
Pit preparation
Before you start planting a plant, you need to prepare landing pit. It is dug up depending on the development of the root system, usually up to one meter in diameter.
Drainage
If wet or heavy soils are used for planting, a layer of drainage must be poured into the pit, 10-15 centimeters high. Broken brick, expanded clay and other hard materials can be used as it.
We fall asleep with a substrate
From above, the landing pit must be covered with a layer of a mixture of peat, sand and earth. Also, if necessary, you can add fertilizers necessary to strengthen the root system.
When planting, the root neck of the plant must be placed exactly at ground level, and be very careful in this. You can’t deepen it very much or, conversely, raise it above the surface - the plant will simply dry out and die if something is done wrong.
The root neck is the place where the trunk passes into the roots, as a rule, here the trunk gradually changes color from green to light brown
A thuja seedling in the fall must be fed for full rooting and for them to survive the stress of planting as soon as possible.
For example, it can be dry top dressing with potash and phosphate fertilizers, the main thing to remember is that in the spring you need to take breaks of 2-3 weeks so as not to overdo it.
In addition, it is necessary to provide the seedling with daily watering and weekly sprinkling from a hose. With this procedure, dust and dirt are removed from the plant, which is very important for arborvitae. When very hot weather sets in, this must be done every morning and evening.
(See also a more general article about planting thuja)
Planting thuja in western autumn How to do it right Photo
The first argument in favor autumn planting- planting thuja in autumn is easier than in another season. Rainy weather itself provides watering of the root system and irrigation of the crown of a young seedling.
The second argument is the possibility of more rational use strength and time. Having done necessary work in autumn, we free up time for important spring chores.
The third reason to plant thuja in the fall is the favorable prices for seedlings. Nurseries sell planting material in large numbers and affordable price, and container plants are often offered at substantial discounts.
The fourth advantage is the presence in the garden of free natural materials that can be used when planting. Autumn fallen leaves are well suited for both preparing a nutrient mixture and for mulching tree trunks.
Features of planting thuja in the fall
To properly plant thuja and avoid mistakes that lead to death coniferous plant, certain conditions must be met:
- Maintain planting dates: thuja with an open rhizome is planted from late August to early October, and a container seedling - until the end of October.
- Do not use any top dressing when planting in the fall, except for preparations that stimulate the formation of roots.
- Use mulching to warm the fragile roots of the plant.
- Protect the crown of a young thuja from frost and sunburn.
Planting process
Before planting thuja in the fall, they collect 8-10 buckets of fallen leaves or coniferous needles.
Having chosen a suitable place for the plant, a seedling is planted in a few steps.
Step 1. They dig a hole in two bayonets with a depth and a diameter of 70–90 cm, folding the upper sod layer separately from the ground.
Step 2. Sod is laid at the bottom of the landing pit, placing it with grass down, crushed bayonet shovel and crush with their feet.
Step 3. Pour a layer of leaves 3–5 cm thick.
Step 4. Add some earth and tamp. Repeating the process, fill the pit with alternating layers to the level of the seedling.
Step 5 Install a container with thuja in the center. Check the location of the root collar, given that initially it will be necessary to fill the soil 5-8 cm above the surrounding surface, based on the draft.
Step 6. Pawn right amount earth, trampling each layer.
Step 7. Mulch the trunk circle within a radius of at least half a meter with a mixture of leaves with pine needles or other organic material. For reliable protection from winter frosts, the thickness of a kind of blanket should reach 6–8 cm.
Planting thuja is completed with abundant watering from a watering can. In dry autumn water procedures for a coniferous plant, repeat every week.
Thuja shelter for the winter
All varieties of western thuja in adulthood normally survive the winter without additional shelters. But the landings of the current year, the protection of the ground part is required without fail. They cover the thuja with the arrival of stable frosts, for which they build over the plant wooden frame or install wire arcs.
From above, the structure is covered with burlap, rolled up in several layers with gauze or a special non-woven material.
In the spring, with the onset of thaws, the shelter is opened from the north side for ventilation. After the snow melts, the winter protection is completely removed and shading is arranged on the south side.
It is better to purchase thuja western for your garden in specialized nurseries that guarantee the viability of the plant in your climate. Everything else depends on competent landing And right conditions development, together ensuring the survival of a coniferous seedling.
Fir - planting and care. In this article, we will provide some tips. proper fit and caring for a tree from the pine family - fir.
Place to land
An alley can be a place for planting fir. In this place, it is desirable to keep the distance between the trees from 4 to 5 m. This tree is also planted in groups. In this case, in the process of planting between plants, it is necessary to maintain a distance of 3 to 3.5 m. In addition to the options listed, this beauty sits down to create a hedge. In this case, it is advisable to keep a distance of about 2.5 m. And plant in a checkerboard pattern. A place for landing by any of the listed options must be chosen in the shade and on a calm side.
Fir - when and how to plant?
According to the advice of many gardeners, a fir tree should be planted in April or late summer - early autumn. For landing you need:
gloomy rainy day;
soil with a normal level of moisture;
loam (better).
The described process includes several stages:
14 days before planting, it is necessary to dig a hole 60x60x60 (the size must correspond to the volume of the root system of the sprout)
pour 2 to 3 buckets into the pit;
let the water soak the earth;
dig the bottom for half a shovel;
put a layer of 5-6 cm of broken brick or rubble in the recess;
separately mix 3 shovels of humus, 2 - clay, 1 - sand, 1 - peat, 200-300 g of nitrophoska and 10 kg of sawdust.
Add some of this mixture to the hole.
wait another 14 days before planting: it is necessary for the soil to settle.
plant a seedling on a hill with a mixture: the neck of the plant should be parallel to the surface of the site;
unravel the roots of the sprout;
close the sprout with the second half of the mixture and press it well,
water the fir.
Advice it is better to plant a seedling when it is from 5 to 10 years old, then it takes root better.
Fir - seedling care
With proper care for the sprout of a young tree, you must:
loosen it to a depth of 10-12 cm;
the soil around the trunk, not close to the root collar, young fir should be sprinkled with peat or sawdust. The topping layer should cover 50 cm in diameter and 5 to 10 cm deep.
Tip 1. When planting a moisture-loving variety of fir, it should be watered around March 2 once a season, especially during dry times.
When planting a regular variety, top dressing can be done after 2 or 3 years. Watering is not necessary: enough natural rainfall.
Tip 2. For the winter, young plants around are covered with dry needles and peat.
Tip 3. In the first years of life, a fir tree must be covered with cut branches of a coniferous tree, protecting it from the spring cold or summer sun.
Fir - transplant
In the event of a transplant, you must:
dig a seedling without damaging the roots, for this it is necessary to make a circle from the trunk with a diameter of 30-40 cm;
move to a new location;
When transplanting an adult fir, you need to prepare the plant a year in advance, marking a circle with a diameter of about 30 cm so that it adapts to the new parameters.
moving the tree to a new place, preferably with an assistant.
Important! When transferring a seedling to a new place, it is necessary to save the earthen clod in which the root system is located.
Pine trees, like many other plants, are susceptible to various diseases.
For fir pests are:
spruce hermes;
shoot moth;
Shishkov fire.
In the process of combating the listed pests, specialized tools can best help. One of these funds needs 20 g per 10 liters of water. The solution will help in the fight against yellowing of the leaves.
In case of yellowing of the needles of the tree and the appearance of a fungus on the shoots, it is necessary:
cut diseased branches;
process slices with garden pitch;
burn infected branches and fallen needles;
spray the crown with 2% Bordeaux solution.
Fir - crown decoration
To form a crown, it is necessary to remove dry and broken branches of the plant in the spring season. This process needs to be done in early spring before the appearance of juice in the trunk of the tree. Trees of the pine family reproduce vegetatively using a handle on which a bud is located. The root system grows and develops gradually: within 8-9 months in a natural way. After reproduction, a young seedling develops a natural crown under the influence of the environment.
Young seedlings grow slowly for 10 years, then the growth process accelerates.
In addition to propagation by cuttings, pine species can be propagated using branches: the lower branches take root naturally, making it possible to obtain new shoots, and seeds: fresh seeds are needed for this.
Fir - types
There are several varieties of firs in the world: balsam, balsamic Nana, Siberian, Korean, Nordmann (Caucasian), One-color, White (European), white-bark (bud-scale), whole-leaved, phraser, Subalpine, Arizona.
Specifying all possible types Let's take a look at the most popular ones:
1. In the first place balsamic. This tree has a trunk with a height of 15 to 25 m. The crown is pin-shaped, dense. The bark of the plant changes from ashy gray color to reddish brown. The branches are arranged in tiers. It has dark green needles and dark purple buds. This tree is unpretentious to shade, humidity and air temperature. Fast growing. Habitat: North America and Canada. Especially popular in North America.
2. Balsamic Nana. Shrub with a height of 0.3 to 0.5 m. It has thick, fragrant, short needles.
3. Siberian. The tree has a height of about 30 m. The crown is dense in the shape of a cone. This plant retains dark green needles for ten years. The lower branches sometimes take root. Cones ranging in size from 5 to 8 cm have a cylindrical shape and a blue tint. This type of fir has decorative forms:
- Candelabra-shaped;
- weeping;
- With multi-colored needles.
Location: Siberia.
4. Korean. Tree height from 5 to 15 meters, and a width of about 2-3 m. The crown is in the shape of a cone. The branches are arranged in layers. The crown is thick. The bark is light gray with a purple tinge. The needles of this species have a dark green color with a white border. Purple cones. Unpretentious: desirable wet place for planting, located in a sunny place.
There are several subspecies of the described plant:
- "Brevif-lia" - with a crown in the form of a circle;
- "Silberl-cke" - with blue-green needles that wrap around the tree trunk;
- "Picc-l-" - with a flat spreading crown;
- "Blue Standard" - with dark purple buds.
5. Subalpine (mountain). The tree has a trunk with a height of 15 to 30 m. The crown is dense in the shape of a cone. The needles are pale green in color. Cones in the process of growth have a bright red color. The presented species has several subspecies:
- "Glauca" - with long gray-steel needles;
- "Argentea" - with needles of a silvery shade and growth up to 8 m;
- "C-mpacta" - with sickle-shaped blue needles
- "Green Gl-be" - with dark green needles.
Having listed the five popular pine species, we note that in this article we have indicated several important points in the process of planting and caring for fir. Let's recap them briefly:
a young seedling needs prepared soil with good moisture in the shade for planting;
the seedling must be 5-10 years old;
when transplanting, it is necessary to prepare a new place for a tree and save its native land;
feed after 2-3 years;
water 2-3 times a season in case of drought.
Fir transplant
Fir belongs to the pine family and most often grows in coniferous forests. There are more than 50 varieties of this plant in the world (starting from shrubs about 50 centimeters tall and ending with giant 80 meter trees).
Special decorative varieties firs, which are quite popular and are used for landscaping household plots and recreation areas, city parks and squares.
Such fir can be purchased by contacting the seedling nursery. There they will pick up a plant for you and at the same time tell you how to care for it so that the fir will please the eye for many years.
Conditions under which fir can be transplanted
A young fir tree tolerates a transplant quite easily, which cannot be said about three or four summer plants, in which the survival rate is rather weak. To transplant mature tree certain conditions must be met. So fir can be transplanted only in early spring, at a time when there is a lot of moisture in the soil. It is advisable to cut the roots at a distance of 30 centimeters from the trunk a year before transplanting. This must be done twice in the spring and autumn of the previous year. After each pruning of the roots, they should be watered with “root” or “heterouaxin”. This event will contribute to the growth of the urinary roots, which will improve the survival of the plant. A year after the procedure, you can start transplanting an adult plant.
The procedure for transplanting an adult fir is practically no different from planting a seedling purchased in a nursery. If desired, you can buy fir with a landing in Moscow in a specialized 
nursery and if you do everything right, the plant will delight you with green needles throughout your life. Indeed, under favorable conditions, fir can live for three hundred years.
Fir Planting Instructions
In order for the tree to take root, you must perform the following steps:
- Fir should be transplanted preferably in April, before the buds begin to swell or in autumn.
- fir shade plant, so it can be planted both in the shade and in sunny areas. But at the same time, do not forget that a beautiful crown is formed only in good light.
- The plant grows well on moist, but not waterlogged, loamy soils.
- A pit for planting a seedling is prepared in advance with a depth of 60-80 centimeters, and the width is according to the size of the rhizome. The finished pit is filled with a nutrient composition, which consists of the following components: humus, coarse sand, peat and clay soil.
- The seedling is installed at the landing site with straightened roots and sprinkled fertile soil. In this case, the root neck must be placed at ground level.
- After transplanting, the plant is well watered.
- Two, three years after planting, 100-125 g/sq. m. Kemiry station wagon.
- Only moisture-loving types of fir should be watered. But it should be borne in mind that fir does not tolerate strong waterlogging and may die.
If there is an additional free space in the dacha and plot that is not occupied for utilitarian needs, then this beautiful plant how fir will decorate it very much (both the very notorious “place” and the whole site as a whole).
Despite the fact that fir and fir oil, based on their useful properties these are leaders in the frequency of use in recipes traditional medicine, planting fir on the site will rather bring only aesthetic pleasure. Brewing her needles from scurvy I think no one needs modern Russia, (with all its disadvantages in the field of medicine) still will not arise, and fir oil in pharmacies is not so expensive. We ourselves, having sorted out a bunch for the sauna essential oils, now we use only fir.
The main plus of fir for use in the landscape design of the site is the needles that do not fall for a long time, which do not become “rusty”, that is, they do not turn red. The fir crown is soft and dense, easily tolerating shaping.
Fir (lat. Aies) belongs to the Pine family (Pinaceae), the genus includes about 50 species distributed in the temperate zone of the Northern Hemisphere. Most often used as holiday trees Nordmann fir, noble and balsamic. Christmas wreaths and garlands are made from fir branches.
A neat, well-defined crown, most often of a small diameter, dense branches located almost from the very base of the trunk, shiny dark green needles make fir trees attractive and decorative.
These trees have long been used for park plantings, mainly suburban ones, since city air has a bad effect on appearance conifer beauties.
Strict firs are good along the front alley. They look great in group landings alone or in combination with birches, maples, mountain ash. Fir makes excellent hedges along the edges of the site. A single fir can decorate a lawn or adjoining territory. Dwarf forms look great in.
In plantings, fir trees perfectly coexist with other large conifers (spruce, pine, larch), and their dwarf forms- with low counterparts, ground cover flowering perennials, heathers, erics, .
Read also:
Biological properties and features
Fir - large, 10-80 m tall coniferous trees. The crown starts almost from the ground and has a neat conical shape. The trunk is 0.5-4 m in diameter, covered with smooth gray bark, although there are species in which the bark is rough, mottled with deep cracks. The root system is pivotal, in most firs it goes into the soil to a great depth. The needles are soft, flat, usually with a rounded top. The upper side of the needles is dark green, shiny, the lower side is matte, with two white stripes on the sides of the midrib.
Fir - monoecious plants, pollen and seed cones are on the same specimens. Seed cones are cylindrical, elongated, directed upwards, and not downwards (as, for example, in spruce), so a fir that has reached reproductive age and without decorations looks like a wonderful Christmas tree with candles on the upper branches.
Another feature of fir cones is that when ripe, they break up into separate scales, releasing seeds, and the central rod remains on the branch. Seeds are small, winged, dispersed by the wind.
Fir: varieties and types
The following species and their garden forms are most commonly used.
Balsam fir (Abies bahamea) is the most common species of the genus in North America. More than other fir is resistant to waterlogging of the soil. Lives up to 150-200 years. Reaches 15-25 m in height.
The root system, unlike other species of the genus, does not lie too deep, so a strong wind can knock down trees. Frost-resistant, quite different rapid growth. The first cones appear at the age of 20-30 years.
It is used for group and single landings. The species is unsuitable for cultivation in the southern regions, where it suffers from a lack of soil moisture and dry air.
There are a number decorative forms, including dwarf ('Hudsonia, 'Nana'), with bluish needles ('Glauca'), with white-colored needles at the ends ('Argentea'), with yellow-motley needles ('Variegata'), columnar ('Columnahs) creeping ('Prostrata).
Korean fir (Abies koreana) forms mountain forests in the southern regions of the Korean Peninsula. Tree up to 15 m tall, growing very slowly in the first years of life.
Cones before ripening become bright, blue, sometimes with purple tint, and they form already 15-year-old specimens.
Differs in winter hardiness and decorative effect (not too large sizes, bright cones). There are decorative forms: with dark purple cones ('Blue Standard), slow-growing, with short needles and small cones (Brevifolia), undersized, with a rounded dense crown and silver needles ('Silberzwerg'), dwarf with a spreading flat crown (' Piccolo').
Caucasian fir, or Nordmann (Abies nordmanniana), forms forests in the western part of the Caucasus Mountains and in Turkey. Reaches a height of 60 m with a trunk diameter of 2 m. The crown is narrow, cone-shaped. The species is characterized by rapid growth and longevity (lives up to 500 years). Winter hardiness is low, even in adulthood, there are a number of decorative forms (‘Pendula, ‘Aurea’, ‘Albo-spicata’, ‘Gtauca’).
The single color fir (Abies concolor) comes from the mountainous regions of the southwestern United States and northern Mexico. Reaches a height of 40-60 m, the needles have a bluish tint. It grows quickly, lives up to 350 years. It is not afraid of strong winds and air smoke, it is very drought-resistant and frost-resistant. Pretty light-loving.
There are decorative forms: a compact tree with blue and white long needles (‘Violacea’), dwarf, with long blue needles (‘Compacta Glauca).
Correct planting of fir
Fir is unpretentious. They put up well with shading, especially in the first years of life, when partial shade is almost a prerequisite for growing. Grown up specimens develop better in full sunlight. Most species of fir have a deep root system and, therefore, high wind resistance.
Fir trees do not tolerate dry air and its pollution with smoke and gaseous impurities, so they are not often seen in city parks.
It is best to plant these plants in April or in the second half of August - September. 5-10-year-old seedlings have the highest survival rate. On heavy soils high level groundwater arrange drainage. A 20-cm layer of crushed stone or broken brick is laid at the bottom of the landing pit.
From the size of the earthy coma on the roots. When planting, remember that the root neck should remain at the level of the soil surface. The width of the pit is at least half a meter, it can be a little more (60-70 cm).
It is useful to prepare for planting soil mixture in the composition: clay, humus (or leafy earth), peat, sand (2: 3: 1: 1), complex mineral fertilizer is also added, and on heavy soils with drainage - up to 10 kg of sawdust. The recommended distance between firs in alley plantings is 4-5 m, in loose groups - 3-3.5 m, in dense ones - up to 2.5 m.
How to form a crown at a fir
In the spring, these conifers clean the crown, removing dry and badly damaged branches. Fir trees have a neat, strict crown shape, but if for some reason additional formation is required, it is carried out in early spring, before the start of sap flow. Sometimes not only large trees, but also dwarf and creeping cultivars need to form the crown.
Most species and decorative forms of fir are successfully grown without any shelter for the winter. However, it should be remembered that young specimens in the first year after planting are more vulnerable to low temperatures. Usually they are covered with spruce branches, which protects both from spring matinees and from sunburn, especially severe when snow melts. It is useful for the winter to cover the trunk circles of young plants with a dry leaf or mulch with peat.
A noble and graceful fir plant will decorate any garden plot. She has a wonderful coniferous aroma, unpretentiousness in cultivation and durability. This beauty will do a great job christmas tree, which can be decorated annually right in the garden.
Fir: description and types, nuances of cultivation
Due to the variety of species and varieties, fir can perform various decorative functions. Dwarf varieties serve as the highlight of rockeries. The tree looks great in single and group plantings. If the territory of the site allows, you can plant a whole alley of fir trees.
Korean fir
This fir is native to the Korean Peninsula. She is best known big amount varieties. There are varieties with green and blue needles, various forms and sizes.
Some of the best varieties are:
- Molli - the variety is ideal for small areas;
- Brilliant - in 10 years its growth will be no more than 20 cm;
- Tundra - has light green needles, grows slowly, blue cones;
- Blue Emperor with bright blue needles grows over 2 m in height;
- Silberlocke is pillow-shaped, becomes pyramidal with age, can grow up to five meters in height, needles have a bizarre shape and color;
- Oberon- dwarf variety no more than 30-40 cm in height;
- Blauer Pfiff - dazzling blue needles, height up to 3 m.
Korean fir is resistant to frost, unpretentious in care, for conservation bright color needles, it is desirable to plant it in well-lit areas.
Siberian evergreen tree
This is the most common variety of fir that can be found. It grows not only in Siberia, but also in the Urals, in the north-eastern part of Russia, it is found in China, Mongolia and Kazakhstan. Siberian fir tolerates severe frosts well, but is unstable to air pollution, so it is rarely seen in city parks.
Caucasian fir or Nordman
This fir is sold in garden centers for outdoor cultivation. She is thermophilic, the birthplace of her growth is the Caucasus. Nordmann fir does not tolerate frost well, but is well adapted to the dry climate of the southern regions.
Decorative single color tree
This fir cannot be confused with any other tree. She is tall and powerful, her needles are thick, up to 7 cm long. The single-color variety is considered the most drought-resistant, therefore it is suitable for the southern regions, but it also tolerates frost very well. This fir is the most sun-loving, therefore, planted in the shade or partial shade, it loses its decorative effect and begins to hurt. One of the best is the Compacta variety, with a dense crown. IN young age it has a conical shape, then grows in width. It grows slowly - at 10 years old it does not exceed 1 meter in height.
balsam fir
Compared to other firs, this one is considered the most short-lived, lives no more than 200 years. The famous Canadian balsam is made from the bark of this fir. It is not suitable for southern regions with a dry climate. One of the best is the Nana variety. This is a dwarf slow-growing variety, the height of an adult plant does not exceed 80 cm.
White-bark or bud-scale fir
This fir comes from the Far East. At a young age, it has a light, almost white bark. This is one of the few varieties that can be used in urban gardening, it tolerates polluted air well.
Fraser Fir
This fir is popular as a Christmas tree due to its aroma, resistance to needle shedding, and regular pyramidal shape. This variety prefers a cool climate, has a large varietal diversity and has long been known to gardeners.
Tall evergreen tree noble
Noble fir is native to North America and grows north of the Cascade Mountains. The height of an adult tree reaches 60 m, life expectancy is 700 years. The crown is cone-shaped, with aging the tree becomes domed. The needles are bluish-green.
subalpine fir
This fir has the most beautiful needles - bright and refined. The tree is loved by florists and landscape designers. In nature, it is found in the mountains of North America. This species can be damaged spring frosts, but tolerates winter frosts normally. best grade with bluish needles, Compacta is ideal for small areas.
Preparation of fir before planting
Planting and caring for fir is not particularly difficult. The most important stage of preparation is the choice of a healthy seedling. It is purchased at specialized garden centers or in stores.
How to choose seedlings
For planting, you need to choose seedlings in containers. They can be planted all year round except for winter. The root system of such plants is well developed, but most importantly, an earthen ball around the roots is preserved, which is very important for coniferous crops.
The microorganism mycorrhiza lives on the roots of fir, which helps fir absorb moisture and nutrients.
The microorganism dries up 10–15 minutes after the roots are exposed. Therefore, fir seedlings with an open root system cannot be bought - they will not take root.
Site and soil preparation
Fir trees are shade-tolerant, but develop better in open, sunny places. They prefer fertile, breathable soil that retains water well.
For planting, prepare the site, dig it up, free it from weeds. To improve the composition of the soil, you can mix two parts of soddy land, one part of peat and one part of sand.
Landing in open ground
One of the first conditions for the proper planting of fir is the choice of location. It should be well lit by the sun.
Young firs are afraid of sunburn. When spring comes, the needles may turn yellow and crumble. To prevent this from happening, it is advisable to shade the plant on a hot afternoon with burlap, spruce branches or hay.
It is advisable to tie a young fir to a peg so that it does not twist out of the ground during a strong wind.
What time of year to plant a tree
A seedling purchased in a container can be planted in spring, autumn and even summer.
It has a well-developed root system, which is practically not damaged during proper planting.
But it is best to plant a tree in early spring, before bud break, or in autumn, long before frost.
Technology of planting seedlings
- For fir, you need to prepare the right landing hole. It is dug 20 cm wider than the container and 30 cm deeper.
- The root neck of the seedling cannot be buried; it should only be lightly sprinkled with earth.
- At the bottom of the landing hole, you can pour a layer of drainage from broken bricks or expanded clay. This is especially important if groundwater comes close to the soil surface.
- The drainage is covered with a layer of earth from above, 100 g of nitroammophoska mineral fertilizer is poured and mixed with the soil.
- The fir seedling is taken out of the container and placed in the prepared planting hole, without disturbing the earthy coma around the roots.
- They fill the space in the hole with fertile soil and lightly tamp down to fill all the voids.
Immediately after planting, the seedling should be well watered. At least 1 bucket of water is consumed per plant. soil trunk circle be sure to mulch with peat or pine chips.
Fir care in the open field
Growing fir in the garden special efforts does not require. This is the most beautiful and grateful plant that responds to the slightest care and attention.
It is important to choose the right type of tree for planting in your area. Fir needs regular watering, weed removal and mulching of the trunk circle.
The tree does not need frequent feeding, it is rarely affected by pests.
How to water correctly
Fir does not like excessive dryness and stagnant moisture; it needs moderate soil moisture.
After landing young tree watered once a week, pouring at least 1 bucket of water. In summer, in hot weather, weekly watering is also desirable. The tree does not like excessive drying of the soil.
Fir is responsive to crown sprinkling. It can be watered over needles from a hose or watering can. Sprinkling is done in the evening or in cloudy weather.
Loosening and mulching the soil
It is impossible to loosen the soil deeply, as the roots located near the surface can be damaged. Weeds are removed around the tree, loosened upper layer soil after watering and mulch to reduce evaporation of moisture. Sawdust, wood chips or peat are used as mulch, pouring them with a layer of 6 to 8 cm.
Top dressing and fertilizer
When planting fir on the site, mineral fertilizers are applied to the hole. These fertilizers are enough for 2 or 3 years, then the plant must be fed.
Fir does not really need fertilizers, as it is an evergreen tree. The best fertilizer for her is good humus or compost. You can apply mineral fertilizer once a year - 30 or 40 grams of nitroammophoska per 1 square meter trunk circle. Fertilizers are applied in spring or early autumn. It is impossible to fertilize a tree in late autumn - grown young shoots will suffer during frosts.
Technology of pruning and shelter for the winter
Fir trees are naturally endowed with a beautiful crown.
As a rule, they do not need pruning.
In the spring, they inspect the tree and cut off broken or dried branches. This is done in early March, before the start of sap flow, so as not to harm the tree.
An adult tree does not need shelter, young seedlings in front of severe frosts can be covered with spruce branches and agrofibre.
Diseases, pests of fir and methods of dealing with them
If fir grows in good conditions, it is not affected by diseases and pests. A tree can get sick after stress - a hot and dry summer and rare watering.
On a weakened plant appear fungal diseases, the root system is sick, the trunk and needles are affected. A diseased tree is treated with systemic fungicides.
If on the needles or branches are visible harmful insects those who have chosen a tree are treated with systemic insecticides. Repeat the procedure several times until the pests are completely destroyed.
Propagation of an evergreen tree
You can grow a new tree from cuttings or seeds. This process will take a long time, a small fir seedling grows very slowly.
seed method
To collect the seeds of the cultivated fir you like, the green cones are also tied with gauze. When the seeds are ripe, they will not fall to the ground and birds will not peck them. collected material sown in open ground or into a moist substrate in a container.
Reproduction by cuttings
- Cuttings are cut from the branches of the previous year, they should have an apical bud.
- Sections are treated with a growth stimulator and placed in a moist, light substrate.
- Moisten the soil with a spray bottle.
- Can do small greenhouse, covering the stalk with transparent plastic bottle or package.
- When the seedling takes root, the greenhouse is removed.
Fir in landscape design: ideas
Fir looks great in the garden. This evergreen adorns the backyard all year round.
There are several options for planting fir for garden decoration:
- In the center of a flower bed or lawn, one or more plants can be planted to create a kind of living sculpture.
- Along a fence or building wall for a beautiful backdrop of flowers and deciduous plants. Fir can be planted along with other conifers - junipers or thuja.
- Several firs in a row - to delimit parts of the garden, create a living alley or hedge.
Some types of firs grow very large, they create shade and oppress other plants in the garden. This must be taken into account when landing. Currently, there are many miniature and undersized firs that will decorate a small garden plot and will not even interfere with flowers in a flower bed.
To coniferous compositions looked attractive, you need to carefully choose the color of the needles and the shape of the crown. You can combine blue and bright green varieties, the trees are round and cone-shaped.
By creating landscape composition on personal plot, it is necessary to take into account not only the size of adult plants, but also their compatibility with each other. For example, fir does not grow well next to spruce, pine and cedar.
Fir is a responsive and patient plant. With proper care, she will delight the owners with a bright color of needles and a wonderful aroma for more than one year.
fir tree
Choosing a site for successful cultivation
The common fir is a rather undemanding tree. Too young plants cannot bear abundant Sun rays, because of which the place of rooting of the cuttings should be shaded. For successful rooting and growing fir garden plot, in the country, or in any other place, you need to take care of the quality of the soil in advance (the soil must be fertile) and make good drainage. Ideally, the plant feels very good near water bodies.
Replanting grown trees should already be in a bright area. The tree perfectly tolerates windy weather, thanks to its powerful root system, which takes root deep underground.
Seedling selection and planting
At the time of planting in the soil, the seedling must be at least four years old. If you plant younger seedlings of the tree, there is a high probability that they simply simply cannot take root. At the moment, fir can be ordered on the Internet, purchased in special nurseries, or on the market. At the time of sale, the root system of the seedling must be in a special container. When choosing a seedling for planting, it is necessary to pay attention to the color of the needles - healthy plant it should have a rich green color. If places with yellowed needles are noticeable on the tree, it is better not to buy such ones.
Fir seedlings
How to plant fir (process description)
As described above, the best period for planting fir, autumn or spring is considered. First of all, you need to prepare a landing site (in the country, in the backyard, etc.). Given the diameter of the root system, it is necessary to dig an appropriate hole. 2 buckets of water are poured into the planting hole. After the water has soaked into the ground, a layer of soil should be removed from the bottom of the hole, about half the bayonet of a shovel. Instead of a removed ball of soil, a layer of broken brick or rubble (about 5 centimeters high) is filled up, which will play the role of drainage.
After carrying out these manipulations, it is necessary to bring into the pit fertile mixture, somewhere in the middle of a dug hole. 200 grams of nitrophoska and 10 kilograms of sawdust are added to the prepared soil. 2 weeks after preparing the hole, you can plant a future tree in it. The roots of the seedling need to be straightened, free space covered with soil, the pit is compacted and watered.
If several trees are planted on the site at the same time, the distance between the seedlings should not be less than 3 meters. Planting fir to create an alley of several specimens - the distance between the planting holes is at least 4 meters. Their future development will depend on the correct location of the trees, since the availability of the necessary space provides the fir with all the necessary nutrients.
