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How to feed thuja turns yellow in summer. How to care for a thuja in the garden so that it is lush and green

My husband and I planted a beautiful thuja as a hedge in a summer cottage. They thought that there would be no worries with her - they planted it and that's it. But the winter passed and we noticed that this evergreen thuja suddenly turned yellow, and in some places it even turned brown! Not immediately, but we were able not only to identify the cause of the disease, but also to cure our thuja.

Now she pleases us again with her healthy and well-groomed appearance! In this article, I want to tell you what thuja can get sick after winter, how to cure it, how to protect it from diseases and pests in the future. Then your thuja will all year round delight with its evergreen beauty!

First you need to find out if annual yellowing is normal for your thuja variety. There is such a variety of thuja, in which the needles darken before the onset winter season, thus preparing for winter, in order to more easily endure the cold. With the onset of spring, it returns to its green color again.

If you notice that the thuja periodically turns yellow at the bottom of the crown, then do not be alarmed, this is a natural process for her. In this case, it will be enough to remove the yellow processes.

If you often water the thuja that you recently planted, and also move the pot with it around summer cottage or put under the scorching rays of the sun, then it will turn yellow very soon.

And also pets can damage it by digging to its roots or nibbling its needles. Therefore, it is undesirable to let animals near the young thuja.

spring sun rays

One of the main reasons for the yellowing of thuja needles can be spring sun, whose rays are reflected from the snow that has not yet melted, thereby increasing its intensity. It is not surprising that thuja, just waking up from winter cold, often gets a sunburn in the spring.

She can only be saved with the help of a covering material that will protect her from the sun's rays. As a covering material, you can use any burlap, fir branches or kraft paper.

It is desirable to cover it at the end of winter, if there is not enough covering material for the entire shrub, then the thuja can be covered only with sunny side. But do not close it completely, it must have access to air.

If she has already received a burn, then in this case she needs to be hidden in the shade and watered more often. Over time, it will definitely increase the needles and return the original green color.

fungal diseases

Like many plants, conifers are also subject to fungal diseases, from which their needles can turn yellow and fall off. Therefore, first of all, after planting the thuja in the soil, it must be treated with an antifungal solution from foundationol.

Ten grams of the drug is poured into a ten-liter bucket of water and mixed well. It is advisable to periodically water the thuja with this solution. But it can be replaced with Bordeaux liquid.

brown shoots

This is the name of the fungus that causes brown shoots. When the thuja is affected by this fungus, it turns brown very quickly. In this case, it is important to notice the disease in time and immediately remove the infected branches.

Then add fertilizer under the root and sprinkle limestone on top. After every two weeks from June to November, the entire crown of the thuja should be sprayed with 0.2% "Fundazol".

Rust

It often affects young needles, only recently planted. The needles acquire a dark brown color and are covered with red dots. In this case, the affected branches must be cut and burned. And treat the plant with copper-containing preparations.

So that rust does not affect thuja in the future, it is advisable to periodically treat it with this drug. Additional watering under the root "Fundazol" will not interfere.

Phytophthora

This is the most dangerous fungus, which completely destroys the coniferous plant. During this disease, the needles turn gray, noticeably fade, and the trunk, which is most affected, becomes soft to the touch and covered with bloom.

If from the bush appeared bad smell, then this is a signal that the fungus has already penetrated the roots. In this case, the plant must be pulled out and destroyed. After that, the earth must be carefully treated from spores of the fungus so that neighboring plants do not get sick.

Therefore, during the planting of the thuja at the bottom of the pit, there must be drainage, which does not allow moisture to stagnate in the soil. So that the thuja is not affected by this fungus, it must be periodically sprayed with "Fundazol".

Pests

In addition to fungal diseases, thuja, if not cared for, can be attacked by pests from which it can die.

In this case, you need to carefully examine the branches and needles of the thuja with a magnifying glass, since insects are often very small and difficult to notice with the naked eye.

bark beetle

leaf roller

The presence of a leaflet on the thuja is evidenced by small cocoons attached to the needles with the help of cobwebs. This is very small insect in a month it can easily destroy the thuja, eating it. To get rid of the leafworm, you need to treat the affected shrub with insecticides in May, June and July.

False shield

If on the underside of the needles you find yellow-brown small insects, no more than three millimeters in length, then this is a false shield, the most dangerous pest, which for short term can destroy an entire bush.

If there are few of them, then it is simply brushed off with a brush from the branches and bark. And if there are a lot of them, then only spraying with insecticides will help. To false shield in early spring, as soon as the snow melts, it does not attack the thuja, the trunk is wrapped in burlap.

Moth moth

Thuja does not feed on the moth itself, but on its larvae, which it lays in the needles. The larvae themselves are very small, not exceeding four millimeters.

She usually lays her eggs in June, therefore, in this month and July, the shrub must be sprayed with preparations containing pyrethroids so that the moth does not settle on the thuja. But if the thuja has already managed to attack the thuja and damage the top of the shrub, then it remains only to cut it off, and treat the rest of the crown with the preparation.

spider mite

If the needles turned out to be entangled in cobwebs, and small red insects run along the branches and needles, then it means that it was attacked spider mite, an incredibly prolific pest that is difficult to get rid of.

It appears on plants suffering from drought in hot summers and sucks the last juices out of them.

Therefore, so that the spider mite does not visit the thuja, it must be watered in the hot summer. To get rid of the tick, the plant must be sprayed with tincture of garlic. But if the tick has already managed to reproduce a huge offspring, but in this case only acaricides will help.

wireworm

If you notice that the thuja began to get sick often and stopped growing, its branches began to dry out, look at its roots, it is likely that you will see small golden worms there. This is a wireworm that harms the roots of a shrub, destroying its immunity.

To get rid of the wireworm, in late autumn you need to dig up the soil around the plant, drain and deoxidize the ground. If there is a lot of wireworm, then it is mixed into the soil with products containing diazinon.

Aphid

If numerous small gray-brown insects were found on the shoots, then this is an aphid that loves to feed on the sap of a tree, bringing it to a state of drying.

If there are not very many aphids, then you can get rid of it by washing the needles with soap. This should be done weekly, covering the soil with a waterproof film so that soap solution did not penetrate the roots.

If there are a lot of pests that even washing does not help, then spraying the bush with any insecticides will help get rid of them.

So that no insect pests want to settle on your thuja, at the end of spring, as soon as the snow melts, it is advisable to spray the conifers with Fufanon.

Spraying should be repeated twice a month until late autumn. In hot summers, it is better to spray early in the morning or late in the evening. And do not forget to put on during spraying protective suit and cover your face with a protective mask.

Landing and care

Many novice gardeners make the same mistake in planting a thuja, placing it at root collar too deep in the ground or leaving outdoors. And even completely forget about the drainage at the bottom of the pit. Because of this, immunity drops. coniferous shrub, and its roots are affected by rot.

It is also undesirable to plant thuja near groundwater, as its roots will rot, this will lead to drying and dying off of the branches. Thuja is not a moisture-loving plant.

Thuja is not recommended to be planted too close to each other, as they will touch the branches and feel crowded, and therefore they can stop their own growth and throw off the needles. The distance between them should be at least a meter.

The soil for planting should not be too dense, acidic, wet, poor in minerals. The soil must be sod land with the addition of peat.

If the above mistakes were made, then it is better to transplant a coniferous plant into a more a good place And don't forget drainage. The first time after transplanting, it is better to cover it from the scorching sun in order to allow the plant to calmly adapt to a new place.

And be sure to mulch the ground around it with sawdust or peat. Water once a week for the first month, and then less often.

Before the onset of winter, the thuja and some other conifers change the color of the needles. This is a common seasonal phenomenon that has nothing to do with plant disease.

When does the needle change?

In autumn, many conifers change the color of the crown, the needles fall off. The change in its color occurs in conditions of lower air temperature in September-November. This is quite normal and should not be scary. Cooling is a signal for most conifers (juniper, microbiota, thuja, pine, etc.). Their needles begin to turn yellow, acquire a bronze or other shade. For example, in autumn the beautiful green needles of the popular microbiota cross-pair turns brown noticeably. The crown of some species of thuja seems rusty-brown for another reason. This is an abundance of half-open cones with ripe seeds.

Some conifers almost do not change the color of the needles in autumn. At pseudo-hemzies general form tree at this time remains almost the same. Its needles live for a long time, up to eight years. Our green Christmas trees also “molt” almost imperceptibly, their old needles are only slightly different in color. They fall off no earlier than after 5 years. The loss of part of the needles is sometimes jokingly called "autumn needle fall". This phenomenon is explained by the fact that the needles live in different plants an average of three to eight years. Some cultures take longer. When "their service life" ends, they change their former color to a greater or lesser extent and fall off. Any changes in the decoration of coniferous trees are alarming. They are evergreen! In most cases, there is no need to worry. New needles will definitely appear, and the tree will not cease to be evergreen.

autumn needles

The needles of pines and firs fall more from skeletal branches and from the trunk, especially in the very depths of the crown. In many species of thuja, the entire crown turns yellow. More intense in the part that is closer to the central trunk. There less light. Both individual needles and entire branches fall off. In many junipers, spruces and pseudo-hemlocks, part of the needles die off by winter. Before that, it becomes gray-gray, so the general appearance of the tree does not deteriorate. Yes, and the change of outfit is gradual. Pea-bearing cypress often loses entire branches, which before that turn very red.

When growing conifers, sometimes in the fall it seems that the plant is “drying out” from the inside. This is due to the fact that much more old needles turn yellow and fall off in the depths of the crown. This condition is clearly visible in pines, cypresses and thujas.

Conifers in an autumn park in France also turn yellow

What to do?

The crown of conifers should be regularly freed from crumbling needles. This is easy to do by wearing a thick glove on your hand. I remove the needles with a strong jet of water from a hose. Otherwise, it will interfere with the appearance of young needles and accumulate in places where the branches fork. A lot of needles always accumulate under a tree. If it does not interfere with other plants, then the needles can not be swept. It gradually rots and becomes a natural mulch. Of course, with any suspicion associated with the presence of diseases or pests, the fallen needles must be removed.

Other reasons

Unfortunately, changing the color of the needles may also indicate some problems. For example, needles are damaged by brown shyutte. Such a tree does not restore its typical color in spring. He needs to be treated. To do this, use a carcid or Bordeaux mixture. Processing is carried out several times (until complete recovery) with an interval of two weeks. There is another reason for the possible fall of yellowed needles. This is aphids. Spraying with karbofos in early spring helps. In the middle of summer, they are treated with Actellik or Rogor-S. For any suspicion of a fungal infection of conifers, fundazol, HOM, oxychom, ordan, kartocid or commander are used. All are strong enough modern drugs. For prevention, trees can be treated with epin and zircon until the end of June.

Massive yellowing and falling of the needles sometimes indicates that the tree was planted incorrectly (for example, with a large depth). Or in the wrong place (for example, ground water come very close to the soil surface). To these factors, it is worth adding unsuitable acidity of the soil, and for some crops, an unnecessarily sunny and ventilated place. But all these painful conditions have nothing to do with natural discoloration and partial change of needles.

The role of regular watering is also great. Long-term drought worst enemy most of the conifers that grow on our sites. The needles often turn yellow due to starvation of plants. Especially due to lack of magnesium. Therefore, you need to make those balanced complex fertilizers, which are designed specifically for coniferous crops.

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Contrary to popular belief, caring for such a really beautiful coniferous plant as thuja is quite simple. It is only important to take care of the wintering of the plant, for which special preparations have long been developed and successfully tested, for example, Purshat-O.

What is dangerous winter for thuja

As with many crops, winter is a time when thuja is at particular risk. Moreover, it is associated not only with negative temperatures, but also with a strong cold wind and even specific winter burns. If you do not take measures to protect the tree, after winter its needles turn yellow and you can often see broken branches lying around, which especially spoil the appearance.

Snow and freezing wind

Along with the negative temperature effect on the thuja, these factors affect the tree purely mechanically - due to the large mass of snow, as well as as a result of strong winds, the branches begin to bend, freeze and quickly break.

Therefore, wrapping a tree in fabric is very important, especially if we are talking about young cultures. You should also tie them to pegs driven into the ground on the same distance from the trunk.

Damage to conifers by rodents

Another harmful factor is the activity of rodents. Most often, thuja suffers from common voles and ground squirrels. Damage to the bark not only spoils the appearance of the plant, but also adversely affects its stability in the winter.

Therefore, protecting culture from such influences is also extremely important. For this, traps are used, and dry leaves are also placed in animal burrows. walnut, herring heads, animal hair and burdock flowers. It is advisable to additionally wrap the trunk of the thuja with nylon stockings.

Sunburn of coniferous plants in winter

Sunburns can appear not only in summer. In winter, the sun itself heats very little, but its rays are well reflected from the white surface of the snow. As a result, radiation in excess enters the plants, and due to the small surface area of ​​the needles, the greens quickly dry out.

That is why covering needles with natural fabrics that have sufficient opacity is one of the mandatory conditions for thuja in winter. But it can be excluded if Purshat-O is used.

Why does thuja turn yellow

If the individual parts of the thuja turn yellow, this is a normal process., as the branches develop, age, lose their green pigments and die, giving way to new ones. In this case, simply trimming them is enough to speed up the process.

However, when a large number of needles turn yellow at the same time, this is the result of sunburn damage and the drying of greenery. Moreover, this can happen both in summer and in winter.

How to properly prepare thuja for winter

Avoiding the impact of these negative factors is quite real and not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. There are several reliable ways to prepare a plant for winter period, which have already been tested by many years of experience of amateur summer residents and professionals:

1. First of all, in autumn, all old, withered, yellowed branches should be cut. For this, garden or ordinary well-sharpened scissors are taken. It is best to pre-treat them in potassium permanganate or boiling water so as not to introduce bacteria into the plant.
2. Stimulants are used to protect the roots(Kornevin) according to the instructions - you need to have time to do the procedure before the first frost.
3. During autumn, the tree can be watered especially generously, increasing the usual norms by 1.5-2 times, since dry land freezes much faster and is more deeply moistened. Important point- abundant watering can be done after most of the needles have fallen off the tree.
4. Young plants, which are not more than 3-5 years old, must be tied up for wind protection. To do this, pegs are driven into the ground, and strong threads are attached at the level of the lower third of the tree.
5. Mulching around the trunk- this is also a mandatory measure, because otherwise the roots run the risk of severe freezing. The fallen needles themselves are used, as well as peat, leaves, and bark.
6. Finally, young trees must be covered with bags, linen and other breathable materials. The tree is wrapped around in 2-3 layers and tied with a strong rope.

Compliance with these simple rules along with the application special means practically guarantees the preservation of beautiful thuja appearance, as well as the normal growth of the tree in the warm period.

Varieties of thuja (video)

Methods for resuscitation of conifers after winter

Very often, with insufficient care for thujas after winter, yellowing of the needles and the death of branches are observed. Often summer residents simply throw away the plant. However in most cases the tree can be restored. For this, the methods familiar to everyone are used - top dressing, mulching, pruning of affected branches.

Plant nutrition

Immediately after wintering, the soil around the affected plant should be well loosened.. Next, a solution of mullein is added, which is bought ready-made and applied according to the instructions. If the infusion is made independently, then 1 part of dry raw materials is taken per 9 parts of water. Thus, on a standard 10-liter bucket, you can take from 0.5 to 1 liter of solution.

Water must be used necessarily warm (hands should be comfortable). Watered 4-5 liters for each young tree and 2 times more - for older thuja.

Mulching

This is a reliable, proven method that is applied immediately after fertilization. The composition of the mulch is arbitrary, but it is better if coniferous litter is present in it:

• dry needles;
• crushed bark;
• foliage;
• peat, crushed into crumbs.

The ratio of components is approximately the same, and needles can be taken 2 times more. Mulch is traditionally laid out around the trunk at a distance of 30-40 cm.

pruning

A mandatory measure of resuscitation of a plant is pruning that have dried, cracked and turned yellow - i.e. have clear signs of extinction. The procedure is done with ordinary or well-sharpened garden shears, which are pre-disinfected in boiling water or any antiseptic.

The use of drugs

And most effective measure thuja resuscitation is the use of special preparations that help restore growth, and also protect the tree from sunburn and moisture loss. The choice of funds is quite wide, but there are few well-established among summer residents. One of these drugs is "Purshat-O", which you can learn more about in the next section.

NOTE

If the thuja was wrapped in linen sacking for the winter, you should not release it immediately. It is necessary to wait until a positive temperature (daily) is established on the street, and in the first 2 weeks to create a slight shading - otherwise the spring rays can burn the needles.

Resuscitation of coniferous plants with Purshat-O

Means Purshat-O is the best means for protecting plants, since its use allows for year-round care of the crop, even when prolonged absence in the country. Distinctive feature preparation - the presence in its composition of only safe for plants and humans chemical substances, which help retain moisture in the stem, roots and green part.

Description of Purshat-O

The drug is a solution that consists of the following components:

• calcium carbonate and silicon dioxide;
• purified water;
• water-retaining substances (wax emulsion);
• complete replacement of the plant's mechanical shelter;
• reflection of almost all (up to 90%) ultraviolet and infrared radiation, which harms the plant and overheats it;
• sunburn prevention;
• significant reduction in plant water loss;
• increasing the level of adaptation after crop transplantation;
• help the plant recover after a burn.

Thanks to such a complex effect, the wax emulsion, which is part of Purshat-O, allows the plant to feel good during long-term watering due to drought and the absence of a host. Irrigation intervals can be reduced by 1.5-2 times. In addition, the foliage does not overheat in the sun, so the plant is not subjected to heat stress.

NOTE

Along with summer, there is the concept of winter physiological drought: a plant loses moisture for natural reasons during a long cold period, which does not allow it to start fast growth spring. Therefore, the retention of water in tissues with the help of a wax emulsion is very simple and at the same time reliable way problem solving.

Why does thuja turn yellow (video)

Instructions for use Purshat-O

Purshat-O is universal in its action - it is used not only for the care of coniferous trees, but also for seedlings, seedlings, ornamental and fruit trees, shrubs. The processing mode depends on the specific culture (for more details, see the table). A the preparation for work itself is the same in all cases:

1. The solution in the vial should be mixed well for 1-2 minutes.
2. A standard bucket (10-liter) is taken, from 300 to 500 ml of the initial solution is added.
3. The whole mixture is thoroughly mixed. The result is a 3-5% solution (depending on the amount of the drug).

Important! Always pay attention to the consistency of the solution - it should not drain freely from the foliage. the main task- so that the liquid lingers on the surface.

The processing rules are as follows:

1. The most suitable time is the second half of the day.
2. If possible, the weather should be dry and calm (during the rains, the treatment will not have a significant effect).
3. Best way work - the use of a sprayer. If carried out by sprinkling (simple spraying with large drops), the results will be much worse.
4. During processing, the solution must be constantly mixed - then the substance will retain the optimal consistency and reliably cover the foliage.
5. The result of the work should be the complete drying of the drug on the green part of the plant. After that, a decision is made whether to carry out secondary processing.

Features of spraying specific crops are presented in the table.

culture group	benefits for plants	quantity and terms of processing
evergreen coniferous trees	protection against sunburn (winter and spring), heat stress	1-2 times treatment in October or November ( optimum temperature 0 ° C), if necessary in February-March, before and after transplanting large trees, as well as during the summer drought
seedlings and any seedlings	fast adaptation of the plant after transplantation, maintaining a healthy appearance	processing before and after landing in open ground, you can repeat the procedure 3 weeks after planting; optimally combine treatment with fertilizers
ornamental trees and bushes	optimal protection from prolonged drought, burns sunbeams; as a result, plants bloom more and can be watered less frequently	the first procedure - 5-10 days before the expected drought, then every 3-4 weeks, and also as needed; if plants are transplanted from a greenhouse into open ground, they are treated before and immediately after transplantation.
fruit trees (including grapes)	frost protection	end of April and autumn - 1 treatment each

NOTE

It is possible to mix the Purshat-O solution with any other plant care products (fertilizers, pesticides, soil improvers, etc.) only after a positive experiment. If the product in a mixture with other substances does not harm plants, it can be used. It is undesirable to take risks without preliminary testing.

Precautionary measures

The agent is a low-hazard substance (according to the accepted classification, it belongs to the 4th hazard class). However, while working with the drug, you need to take into account a few simple rules that guarantee safety for the body:

1. The most important thing is to avoid getting drops, water dust in the eyes. The container with the substance must be held at arm's length away from the face.
2. It is undesirable to inhale mist, which can be formed during spraying (for this you can use a respirator or a regular medical mask).
3. Finally, care must be taken to ensure that the solution does not come into contact with exposed skin.

In case of accidental contact of the solution with different parts body, you need to perform a few simple steps:

1. If the product still gets into the eyes, you need to immediately stop work and rinse them under a large flow. cold water within 15 minutes.
2. If the solution gets on the hand or other part of the skin, you can simply wash it with soap and rinse the body thoroughly.
3. In case of inhalation of water dust from the solution, you can simply go outside and breathe fresh air within minutes.
4. Finally, in case of accidental ingestion, seek medical attention.

At the same time, according to many years of experience with the use of the solution, extreme health effects have never been observed.

Technology and timing of proper planting of thuja

best term planting plants - spring, because if a tree is planted in the fall, its survival rate will decrease by 10-15%. Landing technology is simple:

1. First of all, you need to choose the right place. For thuja, places with shading are optimal, as well as closed to constant winds. From this description it is easy to guess that the right choice there will be a landing along the walls country house or another structure - besides, such an arrangement of trees allows you to decorate the house well.
2. You can make a single-row or double-row landing. The intervals between the trees should be 1 and 2 meters, respectively. If it's about large varieties, minimum - 4-5 meters.
3. landing pit dug twice as deep as the root, and 3 times larger in volume than the root ball. It is important to leave the root neck on the surface (not in the ground).
4. After digging, 2 parts of leaf and 2 parts of soddy land are introduced into the ground, as well as 1 part of sand and peat. You can add nitroammophox (0.5 kg).

The use of Purshat-O (video)

Trees should be well watered immediately after planting.

There are very few plants that will original decoration garden with any design and concept. Thuja is an excellent example of a coniferous tree with soft, juicy greenery, which not only looks good on its own, but also well emphasizes the merits of other plants.

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How to care for thuja in the garden so that it is lush and green?

If you want to admire the beautiful green plants on the site, then you need to know how to care for the thuja so that it does not turn yellow or turn black. It happens that the thuja loses its color, splendor and beauty after winter or planting, and many novice gardeners do not know how to restore health to conifers. To avoid mistakes and learn how to properly contain thuja on garden plot, it is necessary to remember and apply the rules of agricultural technology in the cultivation of coniferous plants.

How to care for thuja after planting

Depending on when the thuja was planted, it will be carried out further care. Proper planting and a suitable place for the ephedra will be the starting points for subsequent actions, these two important factors have a huge impact on the condition of the plants in the future.

For thuja planted in spring and summer, first of all, thorough watering is required once every seven days, provided that the days are warm, but not hot. If the weather is sunny and the air is hot, increase watering to twice a week. The volume of water introduced under the shrub should be at least one bucket under normal conditions, in extreme conditions - two. Large quantity liquids will be required by an adult and big plant, and in cases where a transplant was performed.

in the photo - a small thuja after planting

The first month of thuja growth is accompanied by mandatory sprinkling, during which the pores open and the plant begins to breathe, you can feel a subtle coniferous smell. The scaly thuja needles actively evaporate moisture, therefore, they constantly need to be replenished with water. Thuja is sprayed once a week; on sunny hot days, sprinkling is required every day. best time irrigation of plants is considered evening, after sunset, but it is possible in the morning if the thuja is not in the sun for a couple of hours.

Tui after planting in the fall require watering and sprinkling in the same volumes as spring seedlings. young plant it is necessary to collect enough moisture to overwinter well; if the autumn is rainy and protracted, watering should be stopped or reduced. An excess of moisture for a period of more than two weeks can lead to thuja disease.

in the photo - planting thuja
in the photo - watering the thuja after planting

There is no need to fertilize the thuja after planting; appropriate top dressing should have been applied when planting. If, for some reason, fertilizers were not applied, and the soil on the site is poor in microelements, then it is better to feed the plant, but this can only be done in spring and summer. When fertilizing in the fall, shoots and twigs will begin to develop in the thuja, which will not have time to form by winter, and may die during severe frosts.

in the photo - thuja in landscape design
in the photo - thuja western "holmstrup"

Thuja after planting is best fed with a solution of Zircon, the drug stimulates the formation of roots, improves water absorption and nutrients plant. The fungicidal and antiviral properties of Zircon will protect conifers from diseases, viruses on early stages development.

Thuja care at different times of the year

Thuja care begins after winter, lasts all spring and summer, ends in late autumn. According to many gardeners, the plant is unpretentious and can grow with minimal attention, however, a number of significant problems arise in the process of growing: thuja is dry after winter, turned black, turned yellow after transplantation, how to water, what to feed and what to do about it? There are answers to all these questions, consider the most common and most important.

in the photo - yellowed thuja branches

When to open thuja after winter? It is not necessary to remove the shelter from the plants immediately with the appearance of the first rays of the sun, especially for young seedlings growing for the first year. Make sure that the ground around the thuja has thawed and warmed up a little, then remove the covering material. Opening earlier, there is a risk of yellowing of the thuja, since warm sun will cause the growth of twigs and shoots, root system ephedra in frozen soil will be at rest, and water exchange is disturbed.

What to do if the thuja turned yellow after the winter? Before proceeding with active actions, you need to find the reason for the yellowing of green twigs and shoots, there may be several of them:

• Spring burning of the coniferous part of the plant. A fairly common occurrence, to avoid this, the plants are shaded already in the month of February, and not in April, when the snow melts. Do not use dense fabrics and matter for, gauze and mosquito net fit quite well. Spunbond is not suitable, as it transmits ultraviolet rays, which are most dangerous for arborvitae in the spring. No need coniferous plants“Wrap in a fur coat”, the greenhouse effect inside will only worsen the condition of the green beauties. If the moment is missed in early spring, water the seedlings warm water and spray the plants with Ecogel - Antistress biostimulant to accelerate growth. With the beginning of summer, it will be necessary to cut off the burnt branches;

in the photo - yellowed thuja

If the thuja turned black after the winter, it is most likely that a fungal infection has set in. Cut off all bad branches and treat with Hom, with reappearance process the fungus again. Trunk circles thuja can be watered with another fungicide. The plant can turn black if pets mark it, protect the plant and treat it with any fungicide.

In spring and summer, as in autumn, thuja is watered as well as after planting, given weather and respecting time limits. Top dressing of thuja begins in early spring, ends in the second half of August, so as not to cause the growth of shoots by winter. In the first year of life, plants are not fed, then fertilizers are applied as needed. Use complex fertilizers for thuja, such as Osmokot (10-15 grams per bush) or Kemira-Universal (100 grams per 1 m² of plantings).

When thuja turns black, there can be only two reasons for this:

1 Impact on needles of animal feces, both cats and dogs.
2 Fungal diseases

In the photo on the left - the result of exposure to animal feces, since the contact zone is clearly monitored. In differentiating the two named causes of blackening of the thuja, it is important to experimentally monitor the duration and progression of the process, the presence of visible fungal spores or fungal plaque, the presence of adjacent areas of damage to the needles different nature, the presence of animals in your or neighboring yard (believe me, you will not see when they mark your favorite thuja). It also happens that the blackening of the thuja is associated with both of the above reasons.

Blackened thuja - what to do. Before the exact reasons for the blackening of the needles are clarified, time may pass during which the condition of the thuja may worsen. Therefore, in any case, apply a single or double spraying of thuja with fungicides against fungal diseases, as this will not harm the plant if you have not done this procedure for a long time.

The first reason is from animal feces the leaves of the thuja turn black at the points of contact of the needles with urine (see photo). The extent of blackening depends on the duration of exposure to the damaging factor. If we consider individual branches, then the areas of blackening on them are initially scattered, that is, they are arranged in a chaotic manner, like splashes of watercolor paint (see photo under the next paragraph). In contrast, for example, from fungal diseases, in which the infection spreads gradually along the course of the shoot. As urine is exposed, the thuja forms a vast area pronounced blackening as if painted over with black paint. In the future, these areas will not be restored. In the photo below you can see a typical example, which is beyond doubt that the thuja turned black from animal feces (clickable photo).

The affected thujas, which we see in the upper photos, are close to death due to the extensive area of ​​\u200b\u200bdamage. In general, the area of ​​lesions largely depends on the height of the animals that "mark" the plant and on their number in the yard. Moreover, the urine of not only dogs, but also cats, however, like all other animals, is destructive for thuja. Below, see my photos of some twigs and plants, how the thuja needles turn black from animal feces (the reason was established correctly with the personal presence of a professional):

In the photo, individual needles turned black at the points of contact. What then happens to them? They begin to dry gradually, lose their luster, then die off and crumble. If you have a low thuja and a big dog in the yard "looked after" it, then the plant will inevitably die if you do not take action. Unfortunately, the needles affected by feces will not recover, and such areas on the thuja will remain "bald" in the future. It happens when animals begin to mark a high thuja from below, so only its lower parts suffer.

What to do if the thuja turned black from animal feces. For starters, you can try to wash off the remnants of bowel movements. plain water. In any case, this will not harm the tuya. Then you need to create a fence that would prevent dogs and cats from marking the plant. You can also use repellent aerosols, which are sold in veterinary pharmacies. Of the natural repellents, I can only advise ground pepper, the smell of which neither dogs nor cats like. Blackened needles must first be combed out with your hands, because if the branch is alive, it is possible that part of the needles can recover. To do this, it will not be superfluous to use resuscitating solutions. For example, to stimulate the growth of new shoots, the thuja crown should be sprayed with growth stimulants, such as Zircon, Epin, etc. These preparations can be sprayed 2-3 times with an interval of 1-2 weeks. Completely dried branches will have to be cut.

The second reason for the blackening of the thuja - from fungal diseases. It should be noted that the vital activity of microorganisms such as fungi is associated not only with a different change in the color of the needles of the arborvitae, but also with the characteristic appearance of fungal sporulation on its surface. Fungi are perhaps the most common problem for gardeners, causing various manifestations of disease in plants.

Certainly, fungal diseases do not immediately cause blackening of the needles, and not all of them lead to such a result. There are many causative agents of fungal diseases, but they also have something in common. For example, the needles first turn red-brown, brown or red, then may darken. On closer inspection of the affected areas, you can see fungal spores in the form of black dots or strokes. There are fungi that cause the needles to rot, as well as the appearance on it in early spring of dense mycelial films or plaque from white, white-gray to dark-brown. Availability in spring period the most dense and dark coating is characteristic of a fairly common coniferous disease, referred to as brown shutte. It was during this period that the presence of a dark coating makes us wonder why the thuja turned black after the winter (see photo). In the summer, when a brown shutte is damaged, black fruiting bodies of the fungus can be seen.

In the first photo on the left, yellowed areas of needles are visible, and inside there are areas of blackening, which, by the nature of localization, cannot be the result of exposure to animal feces. It appears to be a fungal disease. In the second photo from above, areas of blackening are adjacent to areas of browning and yellowing of varying severity, allowing us to make a preliminary conclusion that blackening was the result of an aggravation of a single progressive process, more likely, fungal disease.

With a brown shute, the needles of the thuja first turn yellow, then, as the disease develops, they acquire a darker and even black-brown color. In the middle of summer, the fruiting bodies of the fungus that causes this disease are visible to the eye, they are oval in shape and black in color.

In any case, only a professional can distinguish between fungal diseases, but it is enough for us to know only them. common features and be able to heal the plant. More details about thuja diseases are written in another article: what causes thuja and how to treat it.

Treatment of fungal diseases. Needles are sprayed with any of the known fungicides: foundationazole, copper oxycholoride, Hom, etc. Usually spraying is carried out twice, sometimes three times (depending on) with an interval of 1 to 2 weeks. It should be remembered that an excess of copper leads to slower growth. Then the yellowed needles from living branches are raked out by hand, followed by spraying with a growth stimulator, since new leaves may appear on them, although not a fact. Zircon can be used as a stimulant at a concentration of 4 drops per 1 liter, it can be sprayed several times at weekly intervals. If the plant is weakened, then the crown can also be sprayed with Epin mixed with Cytovit 3 times with an interval of 1-2 weeks. Completely dried diseased branches must be removed and burned, the same should be done with dead plants, as they are a source of infection.