How to properly cover a rose for the winter. How to cover tea roses for the winter. Wintering of ground cover roses
Rose is beautiful and capricious plant requiring care. In order for the flower garden not to suffer from frost, it must be carefully prepared. There are several ways to cover roses for the winter. Suitable option selected based on the availability of materials, weather conditions and landing areas.
Do I need to cover a rose for the winter
Sheltering roses for the winter is a mandatory step in care. Proper insulation protect the plant from severe frosts. Roses cover even in regions with a mild climate to protect the flower garden from moisture. In winter, the plant can die not only from the cold, but also from dampness.
The best insulation for plants is snow cover. Therefore, in winter it is recommended to throw a snowdrift on the bushes. If there is little snow in the region, then special attention is paid to the choice of material for shelter.
However, snow does not always guarantee a successful wintering of the rose: it can fall and melt, cover the soil unevenly, and is often blown away by the wind. Therefore, the flower garden is left without shelter only in regions with heavy snowfalls and rare thaws.
Even if the decision is made not to warm the roses, it is important to prepare them for the winter. Bushes are watered and fed, cut off excess shoots.
Features of shelter of different varieties of roses
Park varieties and some hybrids are considered the most cold-resistant, but even they require additional warming. Canadian roses tolerate cold well under snow, even if the upper shoots freeze slightly, the bush quickly recovers.
Important! Be sure to cover floribunda, ground cover, hybrid tea, standard and climbing roses.
Standard varieties are insulated in a special way. These roses are like small trees: they have a strong central shoot, from which flowering side branches extend. For their shelter, they dig the soil on one side and carefully tilt the shoots to the ground. Then they are pressed with arcs and spud.
An alternative option for sheltering a standard rose is to leave it in its natural position. A frame is placed around the stem and the “crown” and a heater is attached.
Most often, difficulties arise when working with climbing varieties. They are removed from the support and fixed to the ground with metal arcs. Shoots can be tied with a rope to make one bunch. A heater is attached on top.
When to cover roses for the winter
When choosing the timing for sheltering roses, they are guided by the weather forecast. Bushes are insulated when stable sub-zero temperatures and the soil will freeze, so as not to cause the plants to rot. At night, the indicators on the thermometer should remain in the range from -7 to -5 ° C.
Approximate dates when it is time to cover roses, depending on the region:
- the middle lane is the end of October or the first half of November;
- Ural and Siberia - the end of September and October;
- south of Russia - November.
Preparing plants for wintering
Before sheltering, roses need to be prepared:
- In September, the flower garden is fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer. Substances are embedded in the ground or dissolved in water before watering. Nitrogen top dressings are completely abandoned so as not to cause excessive growth of shoots.
- 3 weeks before shelter cut off all the buds and leaves. So the plant is prepared for a dormant period.
- The shoots are cut to a height of 50 cm to make it more convenient to cover them. Slices are treated with garden pitch or a special paste.
- For disinfection, flowers are sprayed with a solution of copper sulphate or fungicides Topaz, Oksikhom, Skor.
- The soil under the roses is weeded from weeds, fallen leaves are removed.
- The base of the bush is covered with earth or sand.
- Long branches are bent and fastened with metal staples.
What is the best cover for roses for the winter
To shelter plants for the winter, both artificial and natural materials. It is allowed to combine several heaters at once.
The material for sheltering a rose must meet a number of requirements:
- durability and resistance to any weather conditions;
- vapor permeability to protect plants from damping off;
- accessibility and ease of use;
- durability and the ability to use for several seasons.
Film
Polyethylene film is one of the most popular insulation materials on the market. summer cottages. You can buy it at any garden store. The film is sold in rolls and has a thickness of 0.03-40 mm.
The main advantage of polyethylene is the ability to pass sunlight, protect from cold and precipitation. It has been used for several years, not only in autumn, but also in spring. A serious drawback of the film is that condensation accumulates under it. As a result, the flower may die from its excess.
Advice! If polyethylene is used to cover the rose, it is important to leave holes for air exchange or remove the film when the temperature rises.
Sackcloth
Burlap made from natural fabrics, which is becoming increasingly rare, is suitable for sheltering a rose. In the course of synthetic options with a polyethylene lining. They will protect from the cold, but will not provide air exchange.
Traditional material also does not provide ideal conditions for a rose. Burlap absorbs moisture and freezes when the temperature drops. As a result, all actions for warming flowers are reduced to zero. If you use old vegetable bags, then mold or signs of a fungal disease may appear on the roses.
Nonwovens
Modern non-woven materials are gaining more and more popularity: lutrasil, spunbond, agrospan and others. The canvas is made from thin polymer threads. Such materials allow water and air to pass through, provide thermal insulation, and have a long service life.
If a 60 micron brand canvas is used, then it is used in one layer. With a material of 30 and 40 microns, roses are covered in 2-3 layers. Be sure to choose a heater white color, the black canvas will quickly heat up during a thaw. As a result, more moisture will appear, which will negatively affect the condition of the rose.
Cardboard
The cardboard well protects plants from wind, passes water and air. Usually it is used as a frame on which another layer of spunbond or polyethylene insulation is attached. However, this design will quickly get wet in the spring when the snow melts, so it is removed after the first thaw.
A good option is to use cardboard for the winter as an intermediate layer. First, the plants are covered with a non-woven fabric, then cardboard is laid. Spunbond or polyethylene is attached from above.
Lapnik
The traditional option for sheltering plants for the winter is spruce branches. With its help create air layer and delay the snowmelt. Spruce branches repel rodents. Lapnik will protect the bushes from the bright spring sun.
For shelter, roses take branches from healthy trees. It is not recommended to choose spruce branches with growths or yellowed needles. It must be dried well beforehand. Lapnik is used in regions where weather conditions often change: after thaws, frosts come and vice versa. Spruce branches will provide the bushes with reliable insulation without dampening.
Advice! Lapnik can be thrown over the main cover made of non-woven fabric or film.
Straw
Straw protects roses well from the cold and delays the melting of snow. Its main disadvantage is the soaking when the temperature rises. If the winter turns out to be warm, then the straw begins to cake and compact. As a result, it begins to rot, in some places mold appears. Such a shelter is removed at the first sign of heat: Sun rays do not penetrate through the layer of straw. The soil warms up longer, which delays the growing season of the rose.
In winter, mice find shelter in the straw. Rodents dig passages and damage the roots of plants. They are also attracted to other plantings on the site - apple trees, pears, cherries.
Straw is used in combination with other materials that can protect it from moisture (film, non-woven fabric). If possible, choose mats or sheaves from which moisture rolls down and does not penetrate into the shelter.
Plastic bottles
Another option is to cover the rose plastic bottle for the winter. This method has the same disadvantages as insulation plastic wrap. It is best to use 5 liter bottles with a cut-out bottom. A hole must be made in the lid for air to enter. Peat or other mulch is poured inside the bottle.
Is it possible to cover roses for the winter with polycarbonate
Polycarbonate is suitable for warming roses only in one case - if air exchange is provided. This material protects well from the cold, but does not allow moisture and air to pass through. From the sheets they build a frame resembling a hut. Until frost sets in, you can leave roses under such shelter. When it gets cold, the structure is covered with agrofiber or other material that provides air exchange.
There are 3 main options for sheltering a rose for the winter: mulching a bush, wrapping it with special materials, or installing a frame.
prikopka
The easiest way to cover a rose for the winter is to dig. The shoots are bent to the ground and spud. The main disadvantage of this method is the damping of the shoots during the thaw.
The procedure for digging roses for the winter:
- Spud the base of the bush in early autumn.
- When the time for a full-fledged shelter approaches, the entire bush falls asleep. Be sure to use dry mulch: earth, sand, sawdust, straw. The result should be a small hill 30-40 cm high.
- Spruce branches are thrown on top.
- If possible, in winter, a snowdrift is thrown over the roses.
Around the bush, you can build a fence made of mesh, polycarbonate or thin plywood. Then the mulch is poured inside the structure. Additionally, covering material is attached to the fence.
frame structure
The frame version is quite laborious, but at the same time the most effective. Under such cover, air bag, protecting roses from decay. For its construction, metal arcs, thin pipes, wooden planks, wire, boards, plywood, old baskets are suitable.
Depending on the shape, several types of frames are distinguished: pyramidal, conical, spherical, rectangular. Shrub roses overwinter well under a spherical shelter. For undersized varieties a conical design of 2 boards or plywood sheets is suitable.
The procedure for constructing a frame of metal arcs:
- Around the bush make markings for future supports. If necessary, the bush is cut or bent to the ground.
- 2-3 metal arcs are installed above the rose. To get a solid foundation, they are embedded in the ground to a depth of 10 cm.
- At the top point of the arc, they are fastened with a bar.
- The selected material is attached from above (burlap, lutrasil, etc.).
- Bricks or stones are laid out along the edges of the insulation.
Advice! A frame for a rose can be built in advance, before the onset of cold weather. Material is placed on top and holes are left for air circulation.
Frameless shelter
You can cover roses from frost without installing a frame. This option is suitable for warming old bushes that are difficult to bend to the ground without damaging the shoots. This requires only the material and additional elements for its fastening (stones, bricks, wire, rope).
The procedure for constructing a frameless shelter:
- The rose is bent to the ground. The shoots are fastened with metal staples.
- The bush is covered with the selected material.
- Bricks and other heavy objects are laid out along the edges.
To insulate old bush before winter, it is covered with lutrasil, agrofiber or burlap. Be sure to wrap the stem. The material is fixed with a rope or wire.
Conclusion
How to cover roses for the winter depends largely on climatic conditions and varieties growing on the site. First, the flower garden is watered, fed and cut. To warm the bushes, pour mulch or use synthetic materials. It is most convenient to attach them to the frame to provide an air gap.
Before sheltering, they dig up the soil under the roses (on the bayonet of a shovel), trying not to damage the roots. Shrub shoots and climbing roses you need to bend to the ground and lay on a layer of spruce branches. In order not to break powerful plants, the bushes are dug up on one side and laid, pinning the shoots to the ground.
Then the bushes are spudded - or rather, a mound of dry earth at least 30 cm high is poured to the base of the bush. hybrid tea roses and floribunda, as a result, are almost completely covered with earth. Shrub roses (after they are bent to the ground) spud the base of the bush, you can sprinkle with earth and shoots.
Hilling helps to keep the plant a large number of buds, and in the spring it will be possible to apply any method of pruning. The air temperature under such a reliable earthen shelter (even in the absence of snow cover) remains much higher for some time than outside.
True, you should not rush with hilling roses for the winter either. It's best to do it in two steps. From October 10-15, earth is lightly poured into the base of the shrubs to protect them from unexpected early frosts. And finally spud already before the onset of constant cold weather.
It is undesirable to use pure peat, sawdust or sand - they are very moisture-intensive and with sharp fluctuations in temperature in winter, an ice crust can form around the roses. From its pressure on the bark of the plant, cracks will appear through which the infection will penetrate.
Hilling - best view root system protection. But - attention - the earth is not raked from the flower beds, as this would expose the roots of the plants, but they are sprinkled (this can be compost, humus or just loose earth). In addition, the soil between the rows can be covered with a layer of old straw manure, crushed bark or rotted foliage. When the ground is slightly frozen (in middle lane, as a rule, at the end of October - in the first decade of November), roses cover completely. It is best to do this in dry weather.
One of the simplest materials used to cover roses is a layer of spruce branches or dry foliage at least 10 cm thick. True, it is reliable in relatively mild winters. If there is no spruce branch, you can use oak leaves and plant residues that do not overripe over the winter.
More reliable way shelters of roses - air-dry. Frames 50-60 cm high are installed above the bushes, any insulating material is laid on top and on the side, for example, hydrothermal insulating paper, glassine, cardboard. Cover with plastic wrap. The end sides of the shelter are closed when the temperature drops below -10 C. This method is called air-dry because with it the bushes are protected from the penetration of excess moisture, and the air layer protects the plants from hypothermia. This method is especially reliable in severe snowy winters. But only those who visit their site constantly or come to use it can use it. in early spring: with air-dry shelter already in March, roses need to be aired periodically.
The main covering material is snow, it is he who will most reliably protect roses from frost. Everything else - spruce branches, foliage, lutrasil - serves only to detain him. At 25-30-degree frosts under a layer of snow of 50-70 cm, the temperature does not fall below -4-5 C. Therefore, the shoots are bent to the ground so that they are necessarily covered with snow. With a small snow cover, you will have to throw it in extra. If the snow does not fall for a very long time, then the roses may die, despite all the efforts made. But in those cases when a lot of snow falls from the very beginning of winter and it lies without melting until spring, modern garden roses can winter in the middle lane without any additional shelter.
Illustrations: Vladimir Lukyanov
About, How properly cover roses for the winter Let's talk in our article. After all, a capricious and majestic rose is an adornment of any garden. At the same time, it requires special care. There are species that tolerate any winter well, but there are those sissies who need certain conditions. Let's get acquainted with the features of the shelter and the best designs for tea - hybrid, climbing, standard, bush and park roses.
Wonderful flowers come from ancient rome where the temperature never falls below 3 degrees. And since it is much colder in most of Russia, experts have come up with a way to shelter roses for the winter.
Do I need to cover roses for the winter?
The answer to this question depends on the variety of roses and the weather conditions of a particular region. Age, condition of the plant, and shelter option do not greatly affect how plants tolerate cold temperature. When purchasing a particular type of flowers, you can clarify whether they should be covered. If the climate is warm and the winter is mild, then some even non-hardy varieties can endure it without shelter.
The most winter-hardy species are:
- park varieties (Ritausma, Pink Grotendorst, Konrad Ferdinand Meyer, Hansa, Lavinia, Adelaide Hutles);
- specific or wild roses (Nitida, Glauka, Wrinkled);
- winter-hardy varieties (Skabroza, John Davis, Snow Peyment, Jens Munk, Hanza);
- some hybrid species (Alba, Spinosissima, Rugosa).
All other types of experts advise to cover.
When to hide?
spray roses can be covered at the end of October. If this is done earlier, when it is still warm, the temperature in the shelter can rise, causing roots and shoots to develop. Given that the soil moisture rises, moisture accumulates, the roots can rot. Therefore, when the temperature drops to -5 degrees for more than 7 days, roses can be covered for the winter.
Flowers tolerate the first frosts down to -7 degrees. It is recommended in such weather to start covering the bushes. Roses enter dormancy, stems and roots harden.
But it all depends on weather conditions, the onset of cold weather and the climate of the region.
- In outskirts of Moscow roses cover approximately at the end of October. The term may vary, the main thing is that during the week the temperature varies between + 5-7.
- In the Urals, in Siberia roses cover in September, because the temperature drops earlier. It is recommended to cover in several layers, because the winters in the Urals are severe and the plant needs additional protection.
Advice from experienced growers! The main condition for a good wintering of roses can safely be called a dry shelter. Do not cover wet bushes or use wet foliage, dig in with damp soil or covering material. Due to moisture, rot can appear, pests can start and roses will get sick.
Walkthrough
First stage: preparation
Before winter, it is necessary to carry out protective measures for roses.
During flowering, the plant is depleted, nutrient reserves from the soil are consumed. Therefore, fertilizers in the fall should be special so that the plant does not gain green mass, but prepares for frost.
- For 10 liters of water, you need to take 16 g of potassium monophosphate, 15 g of superphosphate or 10 g of potassium sulfate, 25 g of superphosphate and 2.5 g of boric acid. Apply 4-5 liters of the resulting fertilizer under each bush.
- The folk method of feeding is banana peel or wood ash(for 1 sq. m. you need 3 liters of the bank). In this composition, a sufficient amount of potassium and calcium.
- Complex fertilizer "Autumn", which was created specifically to prepare the roots of roses for the winter.
- Bushes are treated with fungicides, Fitosporin-M or a 5% solution of copper sulphate.
- Roses must be fully mature before being covered. Approximately 3-4 weeks before covering, you need to stop cutting flowers for bouquets. This rule applies to young roses that have been cut for the first time this year. They should fade, thereby naturally stopping the growing season.
Advice! Roses after pruning must be treated with a disinfectant. Bushes are spudded to a height of 30 cm. After that, the roses are ready for shelter for the winter.
- Different varieties roses have different term falling leaves. But be sure to pick or cut off all the leaves. So the plant will be put into a dormant state and the risk of infection will decrease.
- To disinfect the aerial parts of the bushes, it is necessary to treat them with a solution of ferrous sulfate or a fungicide before sheltering. The ground under the bushes should be cleared of debris and weeds.
Watch the video! How to properly cover roses for the winter
Second stage: trimming or bending
Park and weaving varieties of roses can not be cut. Some bush varieties And climbing species that are sensitive to cold should be gradually, 3-4 weeks before shelter, placed on supports that fall lower and lower, so as not to damage or break the stiffened stems. This must be done gradually and carefully.
park roses- bend or cut?
Here opinions are divided. Someone leaves roses for the winter without pruning, so that they endure it better. Such a plant will wake up earlier in the spring and it is unlikely that new shoots will be released. But there is back side this medal: the smaller the above-ground part of the bush, the better it will endure frosts. In addition, leaving the upper parts of the stems increases the risk of bacterial development. Therefore, it is still recommended to do pruning.
On the presented photo four stages of warming stamp roses are visible. The roots are undermined if the trunks do not bend well. The leafy part is covered with spruce branches or dry foliage, and covered with lutrasil from above.
How to bend the bushes roses?
- Dense and not flexible stems are bent in several stages, as mentioned above. You can use old building studs or rods. Such material bends easily, enters the ground well and can last more than one year.
- In order for the bush to become mobile and bend down without harming the plant, you should carefully dig it two or three times with a pitchfork. At the same time, do not dig it out much.
- If the bush has been grafted, it should be bent towards the graft. This is done so as not to break the stem from a strong load.
Stamp And climbing roses are removed from the supports and laid on the ground.
Watch the video! Pruning and sheltering roses for the winter
Third stage: hiding
How and what to cover roses for the winter? There are two types of cover: air-dry or wrap.
- It is necessary to dig in as follows: prepared bushes are spudded with earth at 20-40 cm in height of the stems. The upper shoots are completely covered with dry foliage. Or roses are completely buried in the ground;
- The air type of shelter is the insulation of the roots with foliage or spruce branches, and the above-ground part is a structure made of any materials: plywood or plastic;
- There is an option for wrapping roses, for this it is used thermal insulation material e.g. geotextile fabric.
Features of shelter of different types
Experienced gardeners give shelter tips various kinds roses for the winter
- climbing rose. The stems of this species are not pruned for the winter. Healthy shoots are pinched, and only the sick are cut out. You should be careful with long loops of roses that are sprinkled with earth. For them, you should carefully prepare the place, pour a layer of sand, and a layer of spruce branches on top. On this pillow, the whips removed from the support are carefully laid. On top of them put another layer of spruce branches, and on top of the film.
There is another option for warming climbing roses. A tourniquet is made of lashes, which is placed on a prepared wire frame. A protective frame made of wood or lutrasil is made above them, and covered with a film on top.
- park roses. Varieties of this species are mostly frost-resistant. But young bushes should be covered for the winter. If the winter is predicted to be cold and severe frosts are expected, then you can cover the park rose with a dry method or digging.
- Hybrid Tea rose. For this type of good protection against low temperatures there will be a standard hilling or frame. And the use of spruce branches as an addition will make the winter more comfortable for tea roses.
Watch the video! Bending and pruning climbing roses
The three most popular rose cover designs
Wireframe method
- You can build a frame using a base of metal rods. They are folded into an arc, the edges are deepened into the ground.
- It is better to cover with warming material after the onset of the first frost. When the temperature drops below 0 degrees for 7 days, you can insulate the frame.
- The frame is covered with hilled bushes. For him, you can take the metal rods mentioned above, old wicker baskets, plastic flowerpots of large board sizes, and so on. The frame is built like this:
- the place around the bush is marked;
- a shelter or dome is formed;
- it is covered with covering material, and the plant is sprinkled with foliage or needles, especially if a cold winter is expected;
- on all sides, the insulation is pressed with bricks along the edges so that the roses can be ventilated.
This method is convenient for large rose gardens and flower beds. Insulation is stretched over the frame, if necessary in two layers, pressed from below with boards or bricks.
Frame shelters can be of several types:
- from the rods you can make a small conical frame for undersized species or a large spherical or cone-shaped frame for bush varieties.
- Can be made from wooden beams. The base of the frame is in the center of the flower bed, and metal rods are stuck in arcs on both sides. Covering material is pulled from above.
- You can take three iron rods, stick around the bush and connect with wire. A heater is pulled on top. For bushes that grow sparsely, this method is very convenient.
- For Moscow region and central Russia use air-dry shelter. A frame is installed on a prepared, hilled bush, and a heater is wrapped on top, which is fixed with a rope.
Fence with embankment
The essence of this method is that a fence is made around the bush, insulation is poured inside: foliage, needles, hay, etc. You can use mesh, plywood, cardboard. A fence is made according to the height and width of the bush. Sometimes it is necessary to wrap it with polyethylene so that the insulation does not spill out.
Lutrasil Cocoon
Tall varieties, especially standard ones, are often insulated, leaving the stem on a support, and the crown is wrapped with covering material.
In this case, the root must be spudded. You can wrap the cocoon with lutrasil or other insulation.
Bottom should be tied up so that cold air does not enter inside.
Advice! In rainy weather, it is better to protect the bush from excess moisture. To do this, water is drained from the rose garden, and the bushes are additionally covered with plastic wrap.
Conclusion
It is worth noting that even if roses grow in conditions warm winters, where the weather stays around -5 -10 degrees, they should still be insulated for the winter. Not only is it protection from the cold, it is also a method of preventing the development of rot, late blight and other diseases. The main thing is to choose fit the mind roses and climate type shelter method, then the rose gardens will be healthy and beautiful.
Watch the video! How to cover roses for the winter: the surest way
Not so long ago, the cultivation of roses in the conditions of central Russia, the Urals and even Siberia has become quite grateful. As it turned out, our roses grow beautifully and delight abundant flowering year after year. However, of course, as plants are quite thermophilic, they require proper preparation for winter and Shelter for the winter. In this article, we will consider how to properly prepare roses for wintering and How to cover roses for the winter. After all, it is proper preparation And Shelter of roses for the winter are the key to further growth, development and well-being of the "queen of flowers" in your garden.
Before the shelter of roses, which is produced with the onset of stable cold weather, around the end of October - beginning of November, roses must be prepared for wintering.
Preparing roses for winter
- Preparation for the wintering of roses begins in July, because it is from July that nitrogen fertilizers should be excluded from feeding roses. This is done because when nitrogen is received, the plants begin to grow in mass, many young and tender shoots appear, which are undesirable in the second half of summer. Young shoots that appear in September or October instantly turn black at the first frost, rot and are a hotbed of infections and diseases for roses that go into winter. She becomes weakened and may not survive the winter. Therefore, starting from July, roses (as well as most other perennials) should be fertilized only with phosphorus and potash fertilizers.
- In mid-September, they make the last top dressing with potassium and magnesium fertilizer (for example, potassium magnesia), which will contribute to a good wintering, as well as good flowering next season.
- Also, from September, you should stop cutting roses for bouquets.
- If at the beginning of summer, the buds of young bushes are removed, and faded flowers are removed from mature ones, preventing the seeds from ripening in order to increase flowering and stimulate the growth of new shoots, now all flowers should be allowed to bloom, and the fruits should ripen so as not to awaken new growth buds .
- In late autumn, the foliage of roses can be removed. This will help to prepare the roses well for winter, but do not do this too early, so as not to awaken the growth buds, do it around the end of September. If you have a lot of roses, and the bushes are large, you can not remove all the foliage, but remove at least diseased leaves so that they do not cause various diseases and infections of the bush during wintering. Inspect the bushes and remove all leaves with various spots, blackening, dry leaves, and then burn them.
- Do the last cleaning of your flower beds with roses, weeding and loosening.
- Before wintering, you can treat roses with fungicide preparations for various rot and diseases (for example, iron or copper sulfate) or sprinkle with ash.
- Now we are preparing the roses directly for shelter. You can do this in two ways. Either the bush is cut to the height of the shelter, or the rose branches are bent to the ground. Both methods have advantages and disadvantages. In the first case, the advantages are a reduction in pruning work in the spring, and the disadvantage is that the cut ends of the branches under the pressure of the snow cover can pierce the shelter. In the second case, the disadvantage is a more laborious process, the advantages are the preservation of a larger bush volume and earlier and more abundant flowering.
- If the shoots of roses are very thick and it is problematic to bend them to the ground, they are bent in several stages. First tilt slightly, fix, after a few days fix at a lower distance from the ground and so on until tilted to the ground. To fix roses, you can use specially prepared hairpins, making them from thick wire or from electrodes, more voluminous bushes with big amount shoots are fixed with the help of bush holders.
- Also, in order to bend down bushes with very hard shoots, you can lightly dig them with a pitchfork, this will not bring much harm to the bush.
- bend spray roses, just like the standard ones, it should be in the direction of the vaccination so as not to break it.
How to cover roses for the winter?
So, we have prepared roses for wintering, and with the onset of stable cold weather in late October - early November, they should be covered. It is traditionally believed that it is time to cover the roses if the temperature on the street during the day begins to hold steadily around -5 degrees. Best for Shelters of roses for the winter use non-woven material - lutrasil. This is such a modern covering material that allows you to keep warm, does not let moisture into the shelter, and at the same time allows plants to breathe. The advantages of this material over others traditional materials for shelter - with a film, for example, obvious. Since the film does not breathe and it is necessary to constantly monitor the roses, especially during thaws, during opening, airing and closing them, lutrasil breathes, allows moisture vapor to escape from their shelters, but does not let drops into it, thus almost eliminating the risk of damping out roses. Also, this material transmits light well and it is easy for roses to get used to the light in the spring after removing the shelter, they will not need to be shaded from the light even in the first days after removing the shelter. The use of non-woven material - lutrasil - allows you to cover the roses early before the rains and open later, with the beginning of bud growth, without fear of dampening. Also, this material allows you to grow in a flower bed with roses and other perennials, since such a winter shelter will not harm their wintering. Thus, it is an indispensable material for sheltering roses, especially for those summer residents who do not have the opportunity to constantly come to the garden. However, even when using such a shelter, dampening is possible if the area is damp enough, ventilation during thaws is still necessary in this case, although not so often.
Some sources also advise covering roses with spruce branches. However, it serves rather not for shelter, but for keeping snow from open blown areas.
Lutrasil is commercially available in various degrees of density; of course, it is worth choosing the most dense one for winter shelter. For reliability, it can be rolled up in two layers.
It is best to cover the rose garden entirely with a large whole piece of non-woven material, since when covering a large area, wintering results will be better than if each bush is covered separately.
Above the flower garden with bent or cut roses, arcs or other holders are installed to form the frame of the shelter so that there is air inside, and everything is already covered with non-woven material from above. The edges are pressed down with something heavy: stones, bricks, logs.
I wish you a good winter to your beauties and lush flowering next season!
How to cover climbing roses for the winter 2 ways
The rose is deservedly called the queen of flowers, and its climbing variety is an elegant princess. Their unsuccessful overwintering and, as a result, their death cause particular pity among flower lovers. Climbing roses - very beautiful plant with juicy green leaves and fragrant and delicate buds. Rarely, when without these flowers does vertical gardening and decoration of architectural structures. A well-groomed plant will always delight its aesthetic appearance And pleasant aroma, but for this it is necessary to provide him with the correct, comfortable wintering.
Why is it necessary to cover climbing roses for the winter?
Let's talk about how to cover climbing roses for the winter, so as not to look with pity at a dead plant in early spring. In no case should you rely on the good frost resistance that inexperienced gardeners talk about. Climbing roses are able to withstand temperatures not lower than -3 degrees, a further drop in temperature is very dangerous for them. In addition, thaws that often alternate with frosts also pose a threat to the plant. As soon as the thermometer rises above +3 degrees, sap flow is activated in the stems, the vegetative process begins. A sudden cold snap will cause freezing of the juice, damage to plant tissues, the formation of cracks in the stems and infection with putrefactive organisms. Therefore, they must be covered for the winter, avoiding negligence and disastrous results.
Preparing the plant for shelter for the winter
In order for the plant to overwinter well, it needs to provide not only the right shelter, but also organize preparatory process, which should start with the last summer days. Climbing roses stop fertilizing with nitrogen compounds, but continue to apply potassium-phosphorus top dressings. This will allow the shoots to ripen better. The first such top dressing is recommended in August, for the solution you will need:
- potassium sulfate (10 g);
- superphosphate (25 g);
- boric acid (2.5 g);
- 10 liters of water.
The resulting amount of solution is spent on a plot of 4 square meters. The second feeding with such a composition is carried out in the first days of September. At the same time, you need to significantly reduce the watering of roses, do not loosen the soil. You can not cut the buds, so as not to activate the growth of new shoots. If the plant still continues to actively bloom and develop, the vegetation must be stopped by pinching the shoots and bending the stems near the buds themselves.
Before sheltering a climbing rose, you need to remove the petioles and leaves from the lower parts, and remove the lashes from the supports. Then the plant will gently bend down to the surface of the earth under the weight of its own weight. If the plant has wounds or cracks, they can be sprinkled charcoal or process with ordinary brilliant green.
Wintering climbing roses: when and how best to cover the plant
To organize a shelter, you must choose dry, warm weather, simply speaking, a fine day. The stems are twisted with a tourniquet or in the shape of an oval, and too thick shoots are gently bent to the ground and pinned. To secure the stems, special wire supports are installed so that they do not touch the soil surface. To warm the ground, you can put dry leaves, and to protect against field mice, put two or three tablets of naphthalene.
Above the stacked shoots of roses set wooden roof duplex shape. To cover the entire structure, a polyethylene film of such dimensions is used so that it can cover both the side parts and the ends. Before the onset of frost at 3 degrees, the end parts of the protective structure must be open. This will be a natural hardening for lashes. Then the film is stretched completely, after which the ingress of moisture under the shelter stops.
Such a reliable shelter will allow you to save roses until the onset of the first spring days. They are not afraid of severe frosts and snowy winters, because under this structure the temperature will not fall below 8 degrees below zero. You can see a layer of frost on the stems, you do not need to remove it. So the plant is protected from sudden thawing during thaws. If, however, the warming is prolonged, it is recommended to slightly open the ends of the structure so that the kidneys do not rot. If the winter is relatively warm and snowy, they can be left open permanently.
How to cover climbing roses for the winter in a simpler way?
Gardeners like to use another way to shelter a rose, less laborious. After the preparation, the lashes are laid on the ground on a layer of dry leaves or needles, sprinkled on top with such another such layer, and then covered with roofing felt and a piece of polyethylene. This method may not be suitable for areas where winters are too snowy. Under the weight of snow, the structure can press against the ground, and the plant will not have enough air. Thus, the construction of the frame is the most reliable and optimal way to shelter both large and small bushes of climbing roses.
When the first warm days come, the shelter cannot be removed. For climbing roses, temperature changes in early spring, as well as the sun's rays, can be dangerous. First, the ends of the structure are opened, and when the soil completely thaws, the entire frame is removed. So the plant will gradually begin to get used to the sunny color and will not get burned.
Climbing roses are undoubtedly one of the most whimsical and demanding plants. But such attention to it will be rewarded: roses will delight you with chic and abundant flowering!
Ludmila www. rasteniya-drugsvennie. en
Google
When to cover roses for the winter in the Moscow region and how
Hilling and pruning rose bushes are also elements of preparing the plant for wintering. At the same time, opinions about how it is right and when it is best to carry out the procedures are also different. It largely depends on growing conditions. rose bush. So, for example, in regions with warm soil, gardeners prefer to loosen the ground by 5-10 cm instead of hilling. This allows the bush to breathe better, and hilling, on the contrary, leads to debate. As for the Moscow region, both stages take place.
to the menu
2.1 Hilling the rose bush
The hilling process is necessary for warming the roots and new ground shoots. Hilling also prevents the appearance of cracks on the stems. Before working directly with the soil, the stems and the ground around the roots are carefully sprayed with a solution. Bordeaux liquid(3%) and water. Also, the bush can be processed iron vitriol(5 %). The purpose of such an event is to prevent infections and fungi.
Hilling a rose bush
After the earth and branches dry out, you can do the hilling itself. The weather for this must be chosen exceptionally dry. Hilling height for roses of any variety is 20-30 cm. If the soil in the root area is hard, it must be fluffed to a depth of 2-5 cm. After that, the earth is carefully raked under the stems. Instead of regular earth, gardeners also make mounds of compost or dry peat. This provides additional nourishment to the plant.
After the mound is made, the ground around the rose is covered with a film before the onset of frost. This prevents the soil from getting wet, which means it is less susceptible to frost.
to the menu
2.2 Pruning roses for the winter
Pruning is carried out so that the extra and unripe parts do not pull nutrients from the main branches. In addition, crown aeration and access to light for young shoots are increased. After such a procedure, the overwintered bush develops much faster and more evenly.
First of all, when pruning, unripened new shoots are removed, which did not have time to gain strength by winter. Such parts of the bush will not have time to ripen anyway. And in order to save nutrients, they are cut off. As for other important points of the procedure, the following tips should be taken into account:
The optimal period for work is the end of October. But, it is worth remembering that the listed rules are universal for each variety. But, also each variety has its own moments. So hybrid and tea roses feel best if the stems are cut to a level of 50-60 cm above the ground. In polyanthus roses, unripened shoots must be cut off. They are cut to the very root. Also, the plant is cleared of damaged or diseased parts.
Preparing roses for winter autumn pruning sheltering roses Planting roses in autumn
Marina, what kind of rose do you have? What type and variety? In what form do you have it - a cutting, a seedling with open roots or closed roots, container? Have you already purchased a rose or are you just going to?
Before winter, only those varieties of roses that are adapted to local conditions are planted. If your rose was brought in a container from a country with a milder climate than ours, then during the autumn planting it most likely will not survive, no matter how you cover it.
If a seedling with roots is intended for planting, and not a stalk, then this should be planted now - Autumn planting is done from mid-September and usually until mid-October.. It is important to choose the moment so that the rose has time to take root, and a further drop in temperature would prevent it from starting to grow (that is, the plant would “understand” that it was necessary to prepare for wintering). If you guess with the time of planting, then roses planted in autumn even take root much more successfully than those planted in spring.
Now it’s better to hurry up, the rose must take root before frost, otherwise it will not overwinter. Young roots usually form 10-12 days after planting, before the onset of frost, they must have time to harden and harden.
For planting, you need a dug hole measuring 40x40x40 cm. spill it well with water, add 2-3 shovels of earth mixed with humus to it. If you have a seedling with a closed root system, then you need to dig a hole to the size of an earthen coma (4-6 cm more). Seedlings with an open root system are soaked in water for a day before planting, then too long roots are cut off, leaving 20-30 cm.
Shoots should also be cut. Only 2-3 of the strongest shoots are left, shortening them so that 2-3 dormant buds remain on each. The remaining shoots are cut under the base.
The seedling prepared for planting is lowered into the hole, the roots are straightened around the poured mound of earth with humus. Then they fall asleep with earth, tamping it well. Grafted roses are deepened so that the place of budding is 2-3 cm below the surface. Own-rooted roses can be planted below the level of root formation - then they grow new additional roots.
After planting, the seedling is well watered.(water temperature 16-18°С), and then sprinkled with earth, leaving only the upper part of the shoots outside. For hilling, the earth is not raked from under the roots, but a new one is added. In the spring, after removing the shelter, you will need to unwind the bush.
cover roses, planted with seedlings before winter, you need the same as ordinary ones already growing in your garden. After the first night frosts come and freeze upper layer soil, on the ground with which the roses were piled, they put spruce branches, then dry leaves or shavings are poured with a layer of 15-20 cm, and then another layer of spruce branches. Then, plastic or metal arcs 40-50 cm high are installed above the roses, they are covered with a layer of wrapping paper (kraft paper), and then with a film, pressing its edges with stones. While the temperature is above minus 10 ° C, the film is pressed loosely, leaving slits for ventilation. In the spring, the film is slightly opened more to avoid debate. Shelter is finally removed when the threat of frost has passed.
This method is called air-dry, because there is air space between the shelter and the roses. There is another way, when lustrasil or spunbond is spread over the spruce branches, this method is considered less reliable in severe frosts, but if it is not possible to regularly ventilate the greenhouse, you should use it.
Pruning roses for the winter is a must. This also applies to roses already growing in the ground and newly planted seedlings. Cut off unripened shoots, otherwise these shoots will rot under cover and infect the plant with a fungus. Naturally cut off and all the leaves, buds. Only lignified shoots should remain, with dormant buds. At the same time, these abandoned shoots are also shortened - in climbing large-flowered roses by a third of the length, in small-flowered climbing roses they are not cut, and in other types of roses, the shoots are cut to half the length. All plant debris should be destroyed (do not leave under the bush).
If you bought a seedling with fresh, just hatched, awakened buds, then it is better not to plant this one. It should be tried to save until spring. The apartment is definitely not the best. the best place, but if it is possible to arrange it for the winter on a glazed balcony or in an extension where the temperature does not drop below zero, then it will winter normally, and in the spring it will be necessary to plant it in the garden. You can also arrange seedlings for the winter in the "prikop" - roses are buried in a trench. If you dare to plant, then you first need to let the seedling take root, and then cut off all the young shoots, then cover as usual.
If you plant a rose from a cutting, donated by one of the acquaintances who cut their roses in the fall, then you can try to plant it like that. A hole is dug 50 cm deep, 2/3 filled with freshly cut grass, and topped up with peat and compost. All this is spilled with water. Cuttings are stuck into this prepared soil mixture. You can root cuttings this way now and until the end of October. For the winter, a greenhouse is built over them according to the method described above. In the spring, the greenhouse is opened for ventilation, and then removed when the risk of returning frosts disappears. Cuttings covered in this way successfully winter, and in the spring they begin to grow.
Finally, we add that if you have not bought it yet planting material, but just thinking, and at the same time you are a beginner, as for caring for roses, then postpone your purchase until spring and plant roses in the spring. The fact is that if you have never covered roses for the winter, it is likely that when doing this for the first time, you will make some mistake - and the roses planted in the fall will die.
There is an opinion that it is better for beginners to plant roses in the spring, and already experienced rose growers can do this in the fall., yes, they themselves usually like it much more autumn plantings roses.
Dear readers, you can ask us your question about flowers on the page “ Your questions”, we will try to answer it and publish the answer on the pages of our website.
How roses are covered for the winter at the end of autumn
|
Leaves and unripened shoots are cut off, all plant cuttings are removed from under the bush. |
They spud the bush with earth, adding it additionally, and not raking it. |
|
They cover the bush with spruce branches, leaves, and then again with spruce branches. |
Lutrasil is placed on top of the spruce branches or a micro-greenhouse is arranged. |
|
Sometimes they are limited only to spruce branches, without covering anything additional on top. For resistant varieties of roses, this is quite enough if the winters in your area are snowy enough. |
No, not all. Species and vintage garden roses(with a few exceptions: Chinese, Bourbon, tea) even in the harshest winters do not need shelter.
This special winter hardiness of them is explained very simply: they bloom, as a rule, once, finish their growth early, and their wood has time to mature well and prepare for winter.
Modern garden roses were created specifically to delight us with their continuous flowering from early summer to late autumn. And the "eternal" flowering is accompanied by a long growth of shoots, which in the middle lane do not have time to ripen in winter.
Therefore, almost all modern roses need shelter. And the most winter-hardy of them - shrubs (shrabs) - too. The only exception among modern shrub roses is a group of wrinkled rose hybrids: they also bloom early, and their re-flowering is not very plentiful.
What determines how successfully roses overwinter?
Firstly, from the winter hardiness of a particular variety. Winter hardiness of varieties within the same garden group is different. Secondly, on the state of the plant and its readiness for winter. Third, the weather. And, finally, from the ways of shelter. It is clear that not all of these factors are subject to human control.
Is it possible to prepare roses for winter?
We cannot influence the weather, but we can prepare the roses as much as possible for the upcoming winter trials. There are fairly simple agricultural practices that make rose shoots ripen better.
As you know, nitrogen promotes the formation of a vegetative mass and delays the growth period. Therefore, from the second half of summer, fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers is excluded. In August and early autumn, roses are fed only with potash-phosphorus fertilizers, which stop growth, promote the maturation of wood and increase plant resistance to cold.
Another effective technique is pinching growing shoots in early autumn. Due to the removal of the growth point, the growth of the shoot in length stops, and useful substances are deposited in the kidneys and tissues.
Watering and loosening are also reduced to a minimum, and faded flowers are not cut off - for the same reason, so as not to stimulate further growth shoots.
From October 15 to October 20, the leaves are gradually cut off - first on the lower, and then on the remaining branches, removing unripened shoots. The plant is deprived of natural respiration and the ability to feed through the leaves and is forced to prepare for winter.
Can the plant be hardened off?
The stability of roses, as we have already said, largely depends on their condition at the time of the onset of frost. It is clear that a strong, healthy and hardened plant will better endure both sudden changes in temperature and cold.
Rose bushes, which had good healthy foliage (not affected by insects and diseases) in summer and early autumn, accumulate a large supply of carbohydrates, and this contributes to their successful wintering. Excessive cutting of flowers with long leafy shoots weakens plants.
Roses growing in the shade also winter worse, since with a lack of lighting they accumulate less carbohydrates. A slight decrease in temperature (slightly above 0 °C) in the middle of autumn, on the contrary, contributes to its accumulation.
By the way, the main covering material is snow, it is he who will most reliably protect roses from frost. Everything else - spruce branches, foliage, lutrasil, etc. serves only to detain him. At 25-30-degree frosts under a layer of snow of 50-70 cm, the temperature does not fall below - 4-5 degrees. C Therefore, the shoots are bent to the ground so that they are necessarily covered with snow. With a small cover of snow, you will have to throw it in extra. If the snow does not fall for a long time, then the roses may die, despite all the efforts made. But in those cases when a lot of snow falls from the very beginning of winter and it lies without melting until spring, modern garden roses can winter in central Russia without any additional care.
With further cooling (-2-8 ° C), the cells in the tissues of the plant are dehydrated, and carbohydrates are converted into sugars and fats - substances that protect plants from frost. That's why you can't cover roses too early - plants must go through all the natural processes, that is, finish growth in a timely manner and go into a dormant state.
But, unfortunately, hardening is a reversible process. Acquired resistance to frost may be lost again if, after a significant drop in temperature, a long warm and humid autumn suddenly sets in. Roses will start to grow and use up the accumulated reserves of carbohydrates, and if frosts hit hard after that, it will be difficult for plants to survive such drops.
Is it necessary to prune roses before wintering?
The purpose of autumn pruning is to prepare the bush for shelter. Therefore, single-flowering park roses and wrinkled autumn rose hybrids are not pruned, their shoots are not bent to the ground (with a few exceptions, for example, the Rugelda variety), since they do not require shelter.
Shoots of hybrid tea, floribunda, polyanthus, miniature roses are cut to half their length. Re-blooming shrub roses, climbing large-flowered growing season can reach a height of 1.5 m or more. At the end of October, they are cut by a third. Climbing small-flowered roses are not pruned, only at the beginning of September they pinch the growing point.
If you have not cut off the leaves of the roses beforehand, do it just before the shelter. It is impossible to cover leafy plants, as the process of respiration and evaporation of water will continue. under cover high humidity can cause rotting not only of the leaves, but also of the shoots.
Leaves rotted over the winter become disease spreaders. To prevent fungal diseases, all leaves and cut branches must be removed from the flower beds and burned, and the plants should be treated with a 3% solution of Bordeaux mixture.
Unripe, diseased and weak shoots will not tolerate low temperatures and can cause the death of the entire plant. They are removed to the ground.
How to properly cover roses?
Before sheltering, they dig up the soil under the roses (on the bayonet of a shovel), trying not to damage the roots. Shoots of scrubs and climbing roses must be bent to the ground and laid on a layer of spruce branches. In order not to break powerful plants, the bushes are dug up on one side and laid, pinning the shoots to the ground.
Then the bushes are spudded - or rather, a mound of dry earth at least 30 cm high is poured to the base of the bush. As a result, cut hybrid tea roses and floribunda are almost completely covered with earth. Shrub roses (after they are bent to the ground) spud the base of the bush, you can sprinkle with earth and shoots.
Hilling helps to keep the plant a large number of buds, and in the spring it will be possible to apply any method of pruning. The air temperature under such a reliable earthen shelter (even in the absence of snow cover) remains much higher for some time than outside.
True, you should not rush with hilling roses for the winter either. It's best to do it in two steps. From October 10-15, earth is lightly poured into the base of the shrubs to protect them from unexpected early frosts. And finally spud already before the onset of constant cold weather.
It is undesirable to use pure peat, sawdust or sand - they are very moisture-intensive and with sharp fluctuations in temperature in winter, an ice crust can form around the roses. From its pressure on the bark of the plant, cracks will appear through which the infection will penetrate.
Hilling is the best way to protect the root system. But - attention - the earth is not raked from the flower beds, as this would expose the roots of the plants, but poured (this can be compost, humus or just loose earth). In addition, the soil between the rows can be covered with a layer of old straw manure, crushed bark or rotted foliage.
When the earth freezes slightly (in the middle lane, as a rule, at the end of October - in the first decade of November), the roses are completely covered. It is best to do this in dry weather.
One of the simplest materials used to cover roses is a layer of spruce branches or dry foliage at least 10 cm thick. True, it is reliable in relatively mild winters. If there is no spruce branch, you can use oak leaves and plant residues that do not overripe over the winter.
A more reliable way to shelter roses is air-dry. Frames 50-60 cm high are installed above the bushes, any insulating material is laid on top and on the side, for example, hydrothermal insulating paper, glassine, cardboard.
Cover with plastic wrap. The end sides of the shelter are closed when the temperature drops below -10 ° C. This method is called air-dry because with it the bushes are protected from the penetration of excess moisture, and the air layer protects the plants from hypothermia. This method is especially reliable in severe snowy winters.
But only those who visit their site constantly or arrive in early spring can use it: with an air-dry shelter in March, roses need to be periodically ventilated.
How to cover standard roses?
About shelter standard roses You need to take care even when they land. That is, immediately determine in which direction they can be bent so that the stem does not lie, for example, on the track. In order not to break the trunk, the bend at its base should be on the side opposite to the slope (Fig. 1).
At the trunk, the crown is pre-cut (in accordance with its belonging to garden group), then the plant is dug up on one side, bent to the ground and the root is spudded (Fig. 2). Pinned if necessary.
Spruce branches are laid under the trunk crown, go make a litter of coarse sand, and another layer of spruce branches is laid on top, fixing it with a film or non-woven material.
For greater reliability, the top can be lightly sprinkled with earth. It is impossible to lay the crown of the bole below the soil level, since water will accumulate in the lowland during thaws or in spring, the shoots will get wet and rot.
Pay attention to this:
 |
 |
 |
||
| Building a garden | All about garden plants | Building a house | ||
 |
Share it. Thank you! 0
Pasta with tuna in a creamy sauce is a dish from which anyone will swallow their tongue, of course, not just for fun, but because it is insanely delicious. Tuna and pasta are in perfect harmony with each other. Of course, perhaps someone will not like this dish.
|
Thus, if you are struggling with the question “what is the difference between sushi and rolls?”, We answer - nothing. A few words about what rolls are. Rolls are not necessarily Japanese cuisine. The recipe for rolls in one form or another is present in many Asian cuisines.
|
The solution of environmental problems, and, consequently, the prospects for the sustainable development of civilization are largely associated with the competent use of renewable resources and various functions of ecosystems, and their management. This direction is the most important way to get
|
The minimum wage is the minimum wage (SMIC), which is approved by the Government of the Russian Federation annually on the basis of the Federal Law "On the Minimum Wage". The minimum wage is calculated for the fully completed monthly work rate.
|