Raspberries in the garden, from planting raspberries to harvesting, useful tips. How to plant raspberries in the spring
Greetings, dear gardeners! We all love raspberries and want to grow plenty of this wonderful berry. Today we have access to the most different varieties raspberries: yellow and black, early and late, remontant and standard. The story begins with a landing. When to plant raspberries and how to do this correctly important work? Let's talk about this today.
A competent laying of a raspberry plantation creates the basis for an excellent harvest for many years to come.
Standard raspberry seedlings - offspring
The gardener does not need a seed method for propagating raspberries; this is the lot of breeders. It is also difficult to cut this berry crop - special fog installations and special technologies are needed.
But you can grow raspberries from root cuttings: for this, rhizomes are taken from young bushes,
cut into pieces 10 cm long and buried in loose soil not too deep (in spring or autumn); dormant buds wake up in season - and shoots grow.
The division of the bushes is not practiced, it is of very little use. It is categorically not recommended to use adult bushes for planting: they are difficult to accept and grow poorly in the future.
A normal seedling of red and yellow raspberries is young plant- root growth (offspring), grown a little away from the main bush.
In black raspberries (such as the Cumberland variety) and some varieties of hybrid blackberry, shoots do not form. They grow long lashes, touch the ground and grow into it with apical buds; then roots appear there, a young shoot comes out. This is how black raspberry seedlings are formed - “stem offspring”.
Choose the time
In what month are raspberry offspring planted? There are several reasonable options:
- in autumn - after leaf fall;
- in spring - as soon as the snow melts;
- young shoots ("nettle") - at the end of spring;
- the whole season - seedlings with a closed root system.
The last option is not the best for raspberries. This berry crop planting material in pots it is frail and develops slowly at first. Seedlings with an open root system tend to be more vigorous.
Specific dates
Raspberries with an open root system, dug out in August, should not be planted, and even early autumn is not a very suitable time. During this period, the shoots are not yet fully ripe - neither the trunks nor root neck; the buds of renewal have not yet been laid. It is best to wait for natural leaf fall, or at least approach this time.
In the Moscow region, in Central Russia, in Altai, in the south of the Urals and Siberia, an excellent time for planting raspberries is the end of September and October. There is no need to be afraid that it is too late: it is the sleeping or falling asleep plants that successfully tolerate the transplant. If, nevertheless, leafy seedlings are taken, then all foliage must be removed from them as soon as possible so that it does not evaporate moisture.
Autumn planting of raspberries (as well as gooseberries and currants) during the leaf fall or immediately after it is the most correct option.
It is more appropriate to postpone the event to spring only in the conditions of a cold swampy lowland (although it is generally difficult to grow this berry plant in such places).
If the planting is still done in the spring, then the sooner the better (again, while the plants have not yet begun to grow). Some varieties of large-fruited raspberries (such as the standard Tarusa) and blackberries take root more successfully in the spring, especially in cold regions.
short pruning
Very important point – correct pruning planting material during autumn or spring planting.
The main part of the seedling is the roots and the root collar with the rudiments of the kidneys. The trunk is not needed, it is cut as short as possible, leaving a stump of 5-10 cm.
It is not recommended to save most of the stem. The buds will try to flower and fruit, which will weaken the young plants. You should not strive to get a crop in the first year, it is better to allow the bushes to take root reliably and grow good renewal shoots. They will bear fruit next season.
But overgrown annual shoots can bloom, but in the first year the crop rarely ripens. Any varieties reveal their potential only in the third year.
Inspection
If there are gall swellings and disease spots on the stem, then this is not too scary. The trunk is cut short, infected trimmings are burned. But if there are cones or wormholes in the root neck, then this is unsuitable planting material. You can only try to take root cuttings from it.
If the bumps are visible on the roots themselves, then it may be root cancer. If the lesion is severe, then the plant is burned entirely, it cannot be planted. With a small number of growths, the seedling is preserved by cutting off the infected pieces of the rhizome.
Reproduction "nettle"
This method is especially good for propagating your own raspberries.
Approximately in the month of May (in the Middle lane), young shoots begin to break through next to the raspberry bushes. It is called "nettle".
For transplanting, choose a cloudy (preferably even rainy), cool day. Young shoots 5-10 cm high are dug up with a piece of rhizome, chopping off with a shovel or pruning a rhizome that stretches from the mother bush.
The plants are immediately planted, watered well (you can use Kornevin's solution), and mulched. In the early days, shade from the scorching sun. If by autumn the seedlings grow well and get stronger, then next year they bear fruit.
Accommodation
- Microclimate
Raspberry plants are very fond of moderately moist soil, but do not tolerate stagnant water and especially prolonged flooding. In swampy lowlands, young shoots do not ripen well and winter hard. For such places, the most unpretentious traditional varieties and remontant raspberries with a one-year development cycle are selected.
dry hillocks and high beds for this berry crop is also not suitable, as well as slopes with a rapid outflow of water. Roots are more comfortable in trenches just below ground level, with excellent mulching.
- Lighting
Where is it better to place this berry crop - is it only in the sun, or is it also possible in the shade? Well, of course, she needs a lot of light. Bushes should be illuminated by the sun, ideally from top to bottom. The sunniest places are assigned to the remontant variety and the blackberry, from the traditional varieties - early and late-ripening, as well as capricious super-large-fruited.
A few bushes can be placed in the shade of a house or other building (but not under trees). We are talking about ordinary raspberries, not remontant. Fruiting in partial shade will be later and longer. But here diseases and pests attack more strongly, and young stems ripen worse and do not always successfully hibernate. For a shaded place, you will have to select the most unpretentious and winter-hardy varieties.
Landing patterns
A good option is placement in one row, from south to north.
If several rows are adjacent, then optimal distance between them is 2.5-3 meters (for low standard and low remontant varieties, 1.5-2 meters are allowed). This will ensure proper ventilation.
At what distance to make planting holes in one row? Classic variant- 70 cm. For remontant varieties, 90-100 cm is recommended, for sprawling black raspberries and blackberries - even more.
Neighborhood and crop rotation
Is it possible to plant different varieties of raspberries side by side? This is perfectly acceptable if they have similar characteristics and require the same care. There is no change in berries due to pollination.
It is very undesirable to plant young raspberries immediately after raspberries, on an old plantation - due to soil fatigue and accumulated infections. This berry should not be placed after garden strawberries, bulbous plants, roses, representatives (tomatoes, petunia flowers, potatoes, etc.) - they have common diseases.
What can be planted next to raspberries? Any cultivated plants apart from those already mentioned. In addition, with strawberries at raspberries common pest- weevil. And the neighborhood of raspberries and apple trees is also harmful. Such dangerous pest raspberry buds and berries, like a raspberry beetle, when it comes out of wintering, it first feeds on the nectar of apple flowers, and then flies to raspberries.
Soil preparation
If the soils are strongly acidic, then they are first deoxidized. With a little acidity, raspberries coexist calmly. But the need for raspberries in organic matter is great. 1-2 buckets of mature humus - manure or herbal - must be brought into each seat.
Also add a good handful. A handful of granular mineral fertilizer with potassium and phosphorus will not interfere. It is good to populate raspberries a year after plowing green manure.
Disembarkation procedure
Bare raspberry roots should not be exposed to the sun and wind. If root system processed clay mash, then before planting this clay must be washed off. Seedlings are placed in the holes one or two pieces.
How deep should they be planted? The root neck is buried under the ground quite a bit, a couple of centimeters, just to cover the rudiments of the kidneys. Landings are well watered and a must.
Video about choosing a seedling and planting raspberries
Goodbye dear friends! Happy landing!
With all respect, Andrew
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04.09.2017
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Planting raspberries in the fall - we calculate best timing and ways
Planting raspberries in the fall will allow you to get a delicious harvest next year. But, it is worth considering the timing and time, the quality of planting material and other factors. Great importance has the depth to which rooting is carried out, so only the right set of measures will lead you to success ...
Raspberry planting dates and methods
Planting raspberries in the fall is the optimal time for its reproduction, according to many gardeners and gardeners. At this time, the shoots have time to take root and get stronger before the onset of cold weather, and the hot dry period, as happens during spring transplants, does not threaten them.
Start work not earlier than replacement buds appear on the root collar. At early varieties raspberries this happens in September, in later ones - by October. Finish transplanting raspberries a month before frost. Heat-loving varieties are best not transplanted in winter.
The timing of planting raspberries depends on the climatic conditions of each region. An important factor is the weather. If the autumn is warm, then in the Urals and Siberia you can plant raspberries in early September, but in case of bad weather, it is better to postpone this process until spring - the shrub may freeze out.
In the Moscow region and throughout middle lane Russia can not be afraid of such a force majeure, so planting raspberries in the fall next spring will bring the first harvest. In the south, for example, in the Kuban or Ukraine, raspberries are planted from the end of September to the end of October. In good weather, this is possible until mid-November. Before winter, the seedlings will have time to take root and the next year they will become full-fledged shoots. - not such a complicated process as it might seem at first glance, the main thing is to follow clear instructions.
Time garden work may change depending on weather conditions. Raspberries are propagated by lignified and green offspring, root and green cuttings, dividing the bush. Root offspring are separated from the bush and thus receive planting material. The best seedlings are 8-10 cm high, with a well-developed rhizome lobe.
You can also transplant green cuttings. Then, in the spring, they are temporarily added dropwise in the garden, grown, and by the autumn they receive developed annual shoots, which are planted in a permanent place, and next year they already receive the first harvest.
Planting raspberries from root cuttings is convenient if you want to avoid diseases that often affect the stems. They dig out an adventitious root, divide it into 10-centimeter segments, plant it on a separate bed and grow cuttings that grow from the buds on the roots.
Planting raspberries in the fall - preparing the site
Raspberry grows well in the southern part of the garden, the southwestern side is also suitable, but there should be at least one meter to the buildings. Raspberry is sunny berry, she does not like cold drafts and shadows. You can plant raspberries along the fence, then they get protection from the wind and more securely covered with snow.
The culture is moisture-loving, therefore it feels bad on dry slopes, on which water does not linger. The land should not dry out too much, but the swampy area is also not suitable. The depth of groundwater is not higher than a meter.
Raspberry loves chernozem, light sod-podzolic soils. Soddy sandy loamy soils are also acceptable, but sandy ones require annual organic fertilizer. Heavy loams are the worst.
The best predecessors of raspberries are gooseberries, currants, cucumbers, onions, garlic, gourds, legumes. You can not plant raspberries in place of strawberries or nightshade: tomatoes, eggplant, potatoes, they are also undesirable as raspberry neighbors.
If you grow raspberries of several varieties, the yield is always higher. Prepare the soil on the site: dig, remove weeds. High acidity must be reduced by adding slaked lime a couple of years before the planned planting of raspberries. Humus or compost is added to clay soil. Peat soil is recommended to be diluted with sand in the amount of 4 buckets per square meter.
Fertilize the soil - add humus or compost per square meter - 5-6 kg, superphosphate - 50-60 g or phosphorus - 20 g, as well as potassium sulfate - 50 g or potassium - 25 g. You can replace fertilizer with ash - 100 grams per square meter. They bring everything two months before planting the bushes. Please note that remontant varieties require twice as much fertilizer.
Autumn planting technology
For planting raspberries in the fall, only the most powerful shoots are suitable - annual shoots that have grown from the roots, from adventitious buds. The thickness of the main root of the seedling should be at least a centimeter, the length of the roots should be at least 15 cm. If you bought a plant, then before planting, hold the roots in water for a couple of hours, adding a root formation stimulator (Heteroauxin, Kornevin, etc.). If you are transplanting your raspberries, try to dig up a seedling with a clod of earth without injuring the root system.
Raspberry planting in autumn different ways. The cluster scheme involves landing in pits in rows, the interval between which is 2 meters. Shoots in rows are planted every 1 meter, two seedlings can be placed in each hole.
At ribbon scheme plants are planted frequently, at a distance of 0.5 m or even 0.3 m in a row, and as they grow, it turns out solid wall, or tape. It can be 45 cm wide, and if you let it grow - about a meter. If there are several tapes, observe an interval of 2 m between them. A crop planted in a tape way bears fruit faster, but it is more difficult to care for it.
It is convenient to use the trench version of planting raspberries - moisture accumulates in the recess and nourishes the roots. But, if groundwater lies close, for raspberries, on the contrary, high beds are arranged.
A trench is dug half a meter wide and about the same depth. Plentifully spill the moat with water, put half a bucket of humus in each hole, add 50 g of superphosphate, potassium sulfate and wood ash and start landing.
How deep to plant raspberries? The roots are immersed in the hole so that the kidney at the base of the shoot is just below ground level. Strong deepening slows down the development of the plant, and with shallow planting, the basal buds can dry out and freeze out.
The roots are covered with soil, leaving no underground voids, otherwise they may freeze. Make sure they don't poke out of the soil. Each bush is watered with a bucket of water. Shoots are tied to stakes or trellis. The branches on the seedlings are cut off, leaving only one 20-centimeter trunk.
The soil surface is mulched with straw, humus, pine bark or sawdust. Mulch prevents moisture from evaporating, prevents overheating of the soil, and prevents the development of weeds and pests.
How to plant raspberries so that they do not grow? Its roots in the first year extend to a meter from the planting point, and in order to limit the raspberries, create a border at this distance - for example, from pieces of slate dug vertically at a depth of 30 cm.
Most gardeners try to plant young raspberries in the fall, but is it really necessary? Let's look at the advantages of such a planting and the technology for carrying out this agrotechnical event.
Why is it better to plant raspberries in the fall
Planting raspberries in the fall is considered more appropriate, as the seedlings take root better and get used to it faster. environment, and in the spring they begin to actively develop, without wasting energy on adaptation.
Compliance with the rules of planting work and successful wintering allow you to harvest the first crop the next year.
In the first year after planting, fruiting shoots must be cut off. Raspberries planted in spring do not have time to take root properly, because with the onset of heat inside the plant begins active movement juices, aimed at the growth of the green part, and the roots simply do not have vitamins. And a bad root system, in turn, negatively affects the overall development.
By planting raspberries in time in the fall, gardeners give it the opportunity to take root before the cold weather. Also worth noting climatic conditions during this period of time - in most regions of Russia, prevails 
cool and humid weather, which is ideal for the formation of roots. In the southern regions, there is a long warm autumn with precipitation and mild winters, so it is better for residents of these areas to plant raspberries in September, as the plant is moisture-loving and does not like too much high temperatures characteristic of summer. Important! In the middle lane you need Special attention spend the wintering of young seedlings so as not to destroy the raspberries.
A small layer of snow on raspberries will give good protection from freezing temperatures, but snowdrifts can destroy all plantings. Often sheltered seedlings begin to rot, so take care of creating a space with dry air in advance.
Only in the north, spring planting is considered preferable to autumn, this is due to the impossibility of guessing exactly when the frosts will come. In addition, this region is characterized by snowless winters and severe frosts which destroy even adult plants. But if you do not delay planting raspberries and create good conditions for wintering, then you can not be afraid that the seedlings will not take root.
Gardeners often wonder when to plant raspberries in the fall. It is believed that the best time is at the end of September - beginning of October. Although according to by and large raspberry, which has a closed root system, does not care what month it will be planted, the main thing is to have time 14 days before the soil freezes.
However, for the future proper development and high yield it is important to consider the cycles of plant development. So the planting of bush raspberries should take place after the end of the vegetative period, when replacement buds appear on the neck of the root. At the same time, the growth rate of the bush will decrease and the foliage will begin to fall. In early varieties, this time comes in September, and remontant raspberry develops until the beginning of November.
Unfortunately, the rules of aging are observed only experienced gardeners taking cuttings for propagation from their own bushes. But beginners have to be content with purchased seedlings, which do not always meet all the requirements. To grow such raspberries, you need to make more efforts and use auxiliary nutrients. When buying cuttings, pay attention to them appearance and frost resistance. They must have from one to three mature stems, 7 millimeters in thickness and a well-developed root system.
Important! In non-southern regions, it is better to postpone the planting time of raspberries with low winter hardiness until spring.
Purchased seedlings from open roots you need to plant as soon as possible or at least wrap it in a damp cloth to prevent drying out.
How to choose a landing site
Having found out which planting dates for raspberries in the fall are considered the best, it's time to choose a place for 
raspberry. This crop grows well in light soil with a sufficient amount of fertilizer. If there are several types of soil in the garden, it is recommended to plant the seedlings in small groups. This event will increase the overall fruiting period of raspberries.
Also, when choosing a place, you need to consider how comfortable the raspberries grown there will be in subsequent years. Shrubs should develop freely and not interfere with each other.
Make sure that there are no groundwater and lowlands with cold air nearby. Best for raspberries South side garden and the presence of a number of small buildings that protect from the wind.
The rows of this crop are usually planted from north to south, so that the outer bushes serve as additional protection, and all plants receive enough light.
Planting raspberries
Before you properly plant raspberries in the fall, you need to prepare seedlings, especially if they are dug up from your own garden. Choose only young cuttings coming from the roots of the parent bush. They should be tight and well formed. You can turn a whole bush into planting material by dividing it into parts, leaving one shoot each.
Important! Before the planting procedure itself, soil preparation and raspberry pruning should be carried out. Fertilizers, humus and vitamins are introduced into the ground. And the seedlings are cleaned of foliage and cut so that the plant is no higher than 30-35 centimeters in height.
Pruning will certainly speed up the process of engraftment of the plant, and in the future will allow it to actively develop and bear fruit. Otherwise, all the forces will be spent on adaptation, and not the formation of shoots. Gardeners recommend making a special nutrient mixture for the roots by mixing mullein, clay and root.
Herself step-by-step instruction for planting garden raspberries in the fall is no different from the spring procedure.
- Usually raspberries are planted in rows, if there are several varieties in the raspberries, then there should be 4 meters between them free space. In a limited area, the distance can be reduced to one and a half meters.
- Make special holes, the depth of which is about 30 centimeters, every 60 centimeters.
- Loose humus and other nutrients are added to the hole.
- Having placed the roots horizontally, cover them with earth without tamping. Important! Do not bury the plant too much in the ground, also make sure that the roots do not point upwards.
- Water the planted shrubs with sufficient water.
This crop responds well to soil mulching. Free land around the shrubs is covered with sawdust or hay, which helps to keep moisture inside and slow down the growth of weeds. IN winter time organic matter rots and provides additional nutrition.
Wintering of a young raspberry
Having figured out how raspberries are planted in the fall, you can take care of preparing for the first winter. Before the onset of cold weather, the seedlings need to be bent down, laid on top of each other. Be sure to tie them with twine or secure them closer to the ground with homemade hooks. In this position, they will remain until spring. Important! Carry out the procedure in the afternoon, when the shoots bend easily.
It is not enough just to press the cuttings to the ground and forget about them until spring. Make sure in winter period the raspberry was covered with snow, pour it into empty places. Raspberry seedlings even in winter require Fresh air, so be sure to knock down the ice crust.
In fact, the answer to the question of how to plant young raspberries in the fall is quite simple. Need to take care of right choice seedlings and prepare the soil.
Undoubtedly, garden plant raspberry is one of the most unpretentious. But to get a bountiful harvest, the rules for planting raspberries and the simplest agricultural practices are simply necessary to follow.
How garden raspberries grow and how they look (with photo)
From fruit berry bushes raspberries on garden plots is the most popular, delicious and luxurious. Every year we look forward to the raspberry miracle - flaming berries and a specific raspberry flavor.
Raspberry is a widespread crop, grown everywhere in almost the entire territory of Russia. It bears fruit regularly, because, unlike other crops, it blooms late and is not damaged by return frosts. Likes soils containing sufficient nutrients.
Look at the photo: garden raspberry is a typical semi-shrub with a perennial underground part, consisting of a rhizome and adventitious roots extending from it, and an above-ground part, represented by annual shoots and biennial stems:
The main mass of raspberry roots lies in the soil layer of 5-20 cm, and only individual roots penetrate to a depth of 50 cm. good soils the deeper the roots can spread, the higher the yield of bushes.
Raspberry grows as a root offspring culture: its root offspring appear from adventitious buds on the roots of the mother plant. In the second half of summer, many buds form on adventitious roots, from which, by autumn, shoots do not emerge from the soil surface. In the spring of next year, underground shoots start to grow and come to the surface, forming annual shoots-offspring by the end of summer, which are located around the bush on different distance. Annual shoots (replacement shoots and offspring) in the first year of life grow in length (up to 1.5-2 m).
They grow especially strongly in June before the harvest begins to ripen (lower growth). Then the shoots grow at the top, forming new, shorter internodes. Simultaneously with the growth of the shoot, leaves are formed, in the axils of which 2-3 flower buds are formed (main and additional). They germinate, as a rule, only next year (the exception is).
When growing garden raspberries, do not forget that the strongest, well-developed buds are in the middle part of the shoot. By autumn, the shoots finish growing, shed their leaves, become woody (ripen), which is necessary condition to prepare plants for overwintering.
The following year, in spring, their growth resumes, and by autumn they turn into annual root offspring, which are connected by roots with mother plants for another year or two. Annual offspring usually have an aerial part without lateral branches. Flower buds form in the axils of their leaves. They bloom and form fruit branches of various lengths: at the end of the shoot they are short, and towards the base their length increases.
Fruit twigs that have grown almost at the base of the fruiting shoot are the longest and often do not bear fruit.
In subsequent years, from the base of each fruit-bearing shoot, one or the bottom of the replacement shoot most often develops. A new replacement shoot grows on the shoot of the previous year, so the underground stem branches and gradually grows upwards, rising 5-10 cm above the soil surface.
The formation of new root suckers and young roots located in favorable soil conditions, leads to the fact that after 5-6 years the growth of replacement shoots in the mother bush noticeably weakens and their productivity drops sharply, the bush ages and dies.
Even with good care raspberries in one place are not recommended to be grown for more than 7-8 years.
The number of annual shoots in the bush depends on the variety. On this basis, raspberry varieties are divided into 3 groups: with high shoot productivity (up to 25 shoots), with medium (up to 15) and weak (up to 5-10).
In the zone of the southern region, raspberries begin to bloom at the end of May. The period of flowering and ripening of berries stretches up to 30-40 days. About a month after the start of flowering, the first berries ripen. Raspberry flowers are bisexual, so almost all of its varieties are self-fertile, however, with cross pollination the number of normally developed berries increases significantly.
Here you can see in the photo what raspberries look like cultivated on household plots:
Where to plant raspberries on the site: choosing a place for planting bushes
First you need to decide where to plant raspberries on the site in order to create optimal conditions for it. It is necessary to plant raspberries in separate beds so that the root offspring do not clog the garden.
Before choosing a place to plant raspberries, always consider that this plant is larger than others. berry crops demanding on heat and moisture. With a lack of moisture, the leaves dry out prematurely, and the berries are small. With an excess of moisture, the shoots do not ripen well and often freeze slightly in winter.
In areas with sufficient rainfall, the raspberry planting site should be chosen on a hill or on a slight slope to ensure the runoff of excess water.
And where to plant raspberries if you live in areas with insufficient rainfall? In this case, shrubs should be allocated flat areas. At the same time, there should not be depressions on the beds, since stagnation of irrigation water leads to rotting of the roots.
In the central zone of Russia the best place for planting raspberries - plains or slopes of the southern, southwestern and western directions. The slope should not be too steep.
Planting and caring for raspberries will be complicated if you plant bushes on excessively moist, swampy or very dry, open mounds, steep slopes, eastern and northeastern hillocks.
Do not plant raspberries along the road side of the site, by the road, because the berries are covered with dust, and they are not washed before eating or harvesting.
You can not plant raspberries in the lowlands. ground water should be no closer than 1.5 m from the soil surface. Very elevated places are also unsuitable for raspberries, from which snow is blown away in winter, and water flows in spring and summer, which leads to rapid drying of the soil.
You can not plant raspberries between the rows of fruit trees, this worsens the water-nutrient regime and makes it difficult to care for fruit trees, and for raspberries.
Raspberries should be planted in a sunny place, but protected from the prevailing easterly winds, in an area not occupied by the roots of other perennials.
Growing garden raspberries: how to plant bushes on the site
How to plant raspberries and when is the best time to do it? You can plant raspberries in spring and autumn, but early autumn is preferable, since the seedlings have time to take root before the onset of frost and start growing early in the spring.
Before planting raspberries on the site, the ground must be prepared accordingly. For spring planting, the site is prepared in the fall, for autumn - in a month and a half. He digs up the soil with a full bayonet of a shovel, clearing it of rhizomes of perennial weeds and incorporating organic and mitral fertilizers.
When planting raspberries in the spring, it should be remembered that her buds start growing early and a delay in planting leads to drying of the plant and poor survival.
Raspberry seedlings should have strong fibrous roots no shorter than 10 cm. The aerial part of the seedling must be pruned. Uncut - the next year they form very weak shoots that will not give a good harvest.
Before planting raspberries, you need to dig the “correct” holes: they must be of such a size that the roots fit freely in them and do not bend up. When planting, the roots are carefully straightened, and the soil around them is compacted.
After planting, abundant watering is carried out, then the soil near the seedlings is mulched with sawdust, humus or other material in order to keep moisture in the soil during spring planting, and during autumn planting to protect the roots from freezing in winter.
Make sure that the root neck of the seedling is at the level of the soil, and the root bud is covered with earth and not exposed after watering.
As you can see in the photo, when planting and caring for raspberries, shrubs can be placed in ordinary or tape methods:
With an ordinary plant, plants are planted at a distance of 70 cm. In subsequent years, 8-10 annual shoots are left in each bush.
With tape placement, plants are planted thicker. Moreover, you can plant them in one line 30-50 cm apart and in two lines with a distance of 1.5-2 m between them and between plants in a line of 50 cm. With a two-line planting, a tape is formed faster, which allows you to get a full crop earlier . In subsequent years, the width of a single-line tape should not exceed 1 m, since the care of the soil and plants is difficult in a wider tape.
- Varietal, healthy, with a well-developed root system offspring are suitable for planting.
- Before planting, raspberry plants are sorted into strong and weak, planted separately.
- For better lighting Plant rows of raspberries are arranged from north to south. On slopes where there may be soil erosion, rows are made across the slope.
- With late autumn planting (end of October - November), raspberries should be spudded.
These photos show how to plant raspberries so that the bushes take root quickly:
Raspberry propagation methods by cuttings and root suckers (with video)
There are several ways to propagate raspberries: root offspring, root cuttings, green shoots and dividing the bush. The main and most productive way is reproduction by root offspring (root growth), which annually grow near the bush.
The offspring grown during the summer before planting in the fall are separated from the mother plant at the beginning of leaf fall. Before digging, they are cut so that the offspring has a height from the root of no more than 70-80 cm. To propagate raspberries, root offspring take well-developed annual shoots with a thickness of at least 5-10 mm, having 1-2 large buds at the base.
Raspberry varieties that form a small number of root offspring are propagated by root cuttings. To propagate raspberries by cuttings at a distance of at least 30-40 cm from the mother plant in the fall, when the growth of plants ends, they dig up the roots, cut them into segments 10-20 cm long and pencil-thick and store until spring in the basement in wet sand. In the spring they are planted in well-fertilized soil.
When planting, root cuttings are laid in rows in rows to a depth of 10-12 cm, the grooves are covered with loose earth and the cuttings are watered until rooting. During the summer, weeding and loosening are carried out as necessary. By autumn, good planting material grows from root cuttings, which are planted in a permanent place.
Particularly valuable varieties are propagated by green shoots. As the offspring appear, they are dug up with a clod of earth and transplanted to a separate bed for growing or immediately to a permanent place. After planting, the plants are regularly watered until rooting and shaded. By autumn, well-developed annual plants grow from green shoots.
Raspberry propagation by dividing the bush is used very rarely when the variety does not produce root offspring. To do this, early in the spring, before the buds swell, or in the fall, after the end of growth, raspberry bushes are dug up and divided into parts, while ensuring that each individual part has well-developed roots and several healthy young shoots. Parts of the bush with an old rhizome should not be taken.
The raspberry propagation video shows how this event is performed:
How to water raspberries and fertilize bushes with fertilizers
Another important aspect how to properly care for raspberries - watering plants. Over the summer, depending on weather conditions, they make from three to five waterings approximately at the following times: the first - at the end of May, the second - in mid-June, the third - at the beginning of July, the fourth - at the end of July or early August and the fifth - in October .
Raspberries should be watered as abundantly as possible - surface watering is excluded. The soil under the plants should be moistened to the depth of the main roots - 15-20 cm.
It is impossible to be late with the post-harvest (fourth) watering, otherwise the growth of plants is delayed, the wood does not ripen well and the winter hardiness of plants decreases.
October - winter - watering is carried out in order to create favorable conditions for overwintering raspberries.
Fertilizing raspberries with fertilizers is another important agricultural technique for the successful cultivation of shrubs. For proper fit, care and propagation of raspberries, when preparing the soil for raspberries per 1 m2, 1 bucket of humus or compost, 300 g of wood ash and 80-100 g of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are introduced.
On young plantings in the early years, you can limit yourself to feeding raspberry bushes organic fertilizers, which are introduced early in spring and autumn in the form of mulch, and in the summer in the form of a fermented infusion of mullein or bird droppings.
On fruit-bearing plantings, humus or well-rotted compost can be used for top dressing at the rate of 5-6 kg per 1 m2 of area occupied by plants. In the spring, nitrogen fertilization is necessary 1-2 times (15-20 g of carbamide or ammonium nitrate per 1 m2), then before flowering and after harvesting, apply 60-80 g per 1 m2 complex fertilizer(Nitroammophoska or any organo-mineral); in autumn, 2-3 weeks before the end of the growing season, give phosphorus-potassium top dressing. The dose of fertilizers is adjusted in accordance with the strength of the growth of the bushes and the yield.
It is also useful to apply liquid top dressing with a complete mineral water-soluble fertilizer (“Mortar”, “Aquarin” or “Agrolux” is normal according to the instructions) for root irrigation and foliar spraying.
How to care for raspberries (with video)
Plant care. On a young bed in the spring, the survival rate of autumn planting plants is checked, the dead are removed or replaced with new ones. Care consists mainly in the systematic loosening of the soil and weeding. The beds are loosened to a depth of 4-5 cm, so as not to damage the roots.
It is very important in the first years to cause a strong growth of shoots in order to form full-fledged bushes and in subsequent years to receive high yields. For this purpose, the plants are fed and watered regularly.
In order to avoid breakage and bending of the shoots, they are tied up on a wire trellis when the plants are placed in a tape. With bush placement, the shoots are tied to stakes that are driven between the bushes. When tying shoots are created Better conditions lighting, which contributes to a more friendly ripening of berries.
On the beds of fruit-bearing raspberries in the spring, the condition of the overwintered shoots is checked. Due to the prolonged autumn growth, the tops of the shoots do not ripen and, as a rule, freeze slightly in winter. The frozen top is cut off in the spring to a well-formed bud. Even with a good overwintering, it is advisable to remove the top, since the buds on it are poorly developed and produce an insignificant crop.
In the first half of summer, especially careful care of the soil is necessary, which must always contain a sufficient amount of moisture to ensure the growth of numerous shoots and the formation of a crop.
When caring for and propagating raspberries, as root offspring are formed in the tape or in the bushes, they must be normalized. In summer, when weeding, all weak young shoots are removed, leaving the strongest, spaced at least 10 cm apart from each other. 10-12 young shoots are left in the bush, and no more than 15 in the tape per 1 m2.
After harvesting, the fruiting stems are cut to the ground, leaving no stumps at the soil surface, and burned.
Timely cutting of fruiting stems cleans the bed and creates the most favorable lighting conditions for the growth of young shoots and laying the next year's crop.
In order to prepare the plants for overwintering, at the beginning of August they pinch the top of the shoot, which stops growth and the shoot becomes more woody.
Watch a video on how to care for raspberries throughout the season:
Raspberry ripening is gradual and stretches for about a month. Berries are usually harvested in a day or two, depending on weather conditions. The last harvest of raspberries can be done in three to four days.
The berries are harvested as soon as they turn red and are easily separated from the stalk, in no case do they allow them to become dark crimson in color. Overripe lose their qualities. Berries must be picked dry. You can shoot them wet only in case of prolonged wet weather.
Berries intended for transportation or storage for several days must be removed with the fruit bearing; Otherwise, they spoil very quickly. Picked berries are carefully placed in a container. Wash your hands thoroughly before work. Containers for collecting raspberries should be no more than 2-3 kg. You can not pour berries from one container to another, as they are very wrinkled and quickly deteriorate.
