How to plant raspberries: proper planting, care, fertilizer seedlings. When is it better and how to plant raspberries
With the onset of warm spring days, many summer residents are thinking about expanding their garden or, conversely, creating something new. Raspberry is a shrub that can be found in many personal plots. This is explained by the fact that the plant does not require special care and is not whimsical to weather conditions. However, despite this fact, you should know some rules and pay attention to seemingly minor nuances. They will help preserve the harvest and avoid unforeseen surprises, such as the death of seedlings. So, let's talk about everything important in order.
Planting dates for raspberries
Novice gardeners sometimes wonder: "When to plant raspberries?" On this occasion, today there are many opinions: some say that this should be done in the spring, others in the fall. Only correct option no, however, it has been observed that in the spring, shrub seedlings take root better.
According to the advice experienced gardeners, best option planting plants - mid-April - early May, when the buds have not yet blossomed on the trees.
It is necessary to make plantings exactly in the above time period, because the summer heat is not yet on the street, and the soil has the moisture necessary for plants. If you plant a shrub a little later, then it is likely that it will not take root and ruthless Sun rays it will be destroyed, and if earlier, it may die due to frost.
Choosing a place for the future raspberry
Very responsibly, you need to take the place where the raspberries sit. The area should be protected from the winds and well consecrated. As a rule, such a site is located near the fence. You also need to be prepared in advance for the fact that in a few years the raspberry can grow very strongly and interfere with the normal development of crops. To prevent this from happening, gardeners come up with all sorts of barriers, for example, they dig in (to a depth of 50 cm) slate around the perimeter of plantings.
IMPORTANT! In the area where raspberries will grow, rainwater should not accumulate. The shrub from an excess of moisture develops slowly, the fruits are small. Also, this culture does not tolerate the proximity of groundwater.
Preparing the soil for raspberries
It is believed that raspberries are not a capricious crop and grow on almost any soil. However, it is still necessary to carry out some manipulations with the earth. In particular, a little humus is added to the holes or trenches. The nutrient layer should be about 10 cm thick. If there is no humus, then dry foliage or grass can be used instead.
The main methods of planting raspberries
There are three methods of planting raspberries: trenches, cuttings and seedlings. To understand the differences, let's general characteristics each of the above methods.
Buying planting material
Buy planting material can be in special nurseries or agricultural markets. The price category is different, it directly depends on the variety and age of the seedling. On average, the cost is 200-300 rubles for one young bush.
When choosing, pay attention to the root system. It must be powerful (have many branches). Otherwise, the plant can take root for a very long time.
Making calculations: basic raspberry planting schemes
In order for raspberry bushes to develop well, you need to know correct scheme landing. Basically, a formula that has been proven over the years is used: the distance between rows should be approximately 1 m. 20 cm, and between bushes - 20 cm.
As for the planting depth, it depends on the chosen method. If seedlings are planted in holes, then a depth of 20 cm is enough, and if in a trench, then at least 40 cm.
Raspberry: basic care after planting
- Watering. Raspberries do not need constant watering, except perhaps on initial stage(after landing). During this period, you need to water the plant 1 time in 2-3 days. Subsequently, raspberries will have enough precipitation.
- Mulching. We must not forget to periodically mulch the soil around the shrub (lay out dry grass). This allows you to retain moisture.
- Weeding and loosening. At the initial stage, when the raspberry bush has just been planted and has not yet gained strength, you need to make sure that there are no weeds around the plantings. Also, experienced gardeners recommend loosening the soil in the hole from time to time, this will allow the roots to “breathe”.
- When the transplanted raspberry grows, you need to prune the plant. This is necessary so that the bush stops growing up and starts to shoot side shoots (branches).
We add, no matter what method you choose for planting raspberries, it will still have to be transplanted to another place sooner or later. If the shrub constantly grows in only one area, it will cease to bear fruit.
In general, even a novice gardener can have a well-groomed raspberry in his garden. The main thing is to choose good planting material and know the basic rules for caring for this plant.
Planting raspberries - video
Raspberry cultivation is considered by some a simple matter. But many don't know to grow a rich and tasty harvest of berries, you need to know some secrets planting and caring for this seemingly undemanding culture.
Where to plant?
By choosing the right place for planting raspberry bushes, you will provide yourself with a stable harvest of tasty and fragrant berries.
Usually, gardeners allocate the most junk places for planting. It is not right. In this case, the yield is insignificant.
For the berry to be sweet, you need the sun. Raspberries moisture-loving plant. Therefore, the places for it must be chosen:
- Solar.
- Protected from the winds.
- Wet, but not swampy (it's good if we accumulate a lot of snow in this place in winter).
- With fertile soil.
When is the best time to plant, fall or spring?
Raspberry bushes can be planted in any, warm season, But best time for planting still autumn.
In autumn, the best ratio of temperature and humidity. Bushes rooted in autumn grow faster in spring and get sick less.
At spring planting the plant takes a long time to take root and the survival rate is less than with autumn planting.
Soil preparation for raspberry bushes must be done in advance. If the bushes are planted in autumn, then landing pits prepare a month before landing.
During spring planting, the pits are prepared in the fall. Seedlings not planted for some reason should be buried in the fall. In the spring, it is important to have time to plant the buried plants before the buds awaken.
Basic Methods
Raspberries are planted on the site trench, hole or hole method. And the method according to the Sobolev method is also interesting. What is the difference?
Trench
Raspberries planted in a trench saves time on care. Less watering, it is convenient to cover for the winter, the yield of berries increases.
Rules for landing in trenches:
- Choose a well-lit place.
- For uniform illumination of the raspberry trench, direct the trenches from north to south.
- The length of the trenches is arbitrary, but with a depth of 60-70 cm and a width of 40-50 cm.
- If there is more than one row, then the distance between them is at least 1.5 m.
- Heavy soil with loam must be lightened. At the bottom of the trench, pour a layer of 10-15 cm of gravel or sand. Mix the soil with humus. Sprinkle mineral fertilizers on top of it per 1 sq m:
- 200 grams of phosphorus;
- 60-70 grams of potassium;
- 300-400 grams wood ash.
- you can use complex fertilizers: 200 grams of nitroammophoska or nitrophoska.
- Mix everything thoroughly again. From above fall asleep 10 cm fertile land. Leave 30-40 cm of free space to the top of the ditch.
- Reinforce the edges with ribs. They shouldn't crumble. Suitable for strengthening: boards, roofing material or polycarbonate.
- From the ends of the trench, install T-shaped posts. Height 1 m.
- Stretch 2 rows of wire. From the ground 30-40 cm and on top of the posts.
- Plant the seedlings in a line with a distance of 1 m between plants.
- Dig holes. Put up a plant. Cover with soil. To make the plant stand firmly, compact the soil around the bole.
- Water in two doses, in small portions until the soil is completely saturated with moisture. After watering, the soil around the raspberries is recommended to be mulched. This will prevent it from drying out and get rid of extra hassle for weeding and loosening. Peat, humus, needles or compost are suitable as mulch.
- Seedlings as they grow should be tied to a wire. Start the garter from the lower tiers.
The trench method of growing raspberries is effective, but optional and suitable for large raspberries.
Pithole
If you have a small amount of raspberries, then it is more advisable to plant it with a hole or by the bush method, followed by fan-shaped crown formation. Pits should be prepared two weeks before planting.
Landing rules:
- Dig holes with a depth and width of 35-40 cm. The distance between the holes is from 0.6 m to 1 m.
- Fill with fertile soil:
- 5-6 kg of humus;
- 150 grams of double superphosphate;
- 50 grams of potassium sulfate;
- 200 grams of wood ash.
- Pour the mixture at the bottom of the pit, and put 10 cm of plain soil on top.
- Put a barrier around the perimeter of the raspberry. Suitable boards, roofing material, slate or polycarbonate.
- In sabers, cut the roots to healthy ones. Trim the shoots. Leave 35-40 cm.
- Lower the plant, straighten the roots and cover with soil. Seal around the bole.
- During boarding root collar should be 3-4 cm above the soil level. After the earth shrinks, it will be at the soil level.
- After the raspberries are planted, they should be watered. Watering should be done in 2-3 doses in small portions. Until the soil is saturated with moisture.
- Mulch the soil around the trunk. For this, humus, peat, sawdust or chopped grass are suitable.
According to Sobolev
According to gardeners, growing only a few raspberry bushes in the country according to the Sobolev method, it is possible to get up to 5 kg of berries from a bush.
So what is the method:
- Preparing beds and planting sites. We choose a well-lit place and arrange the ridge from north to south or from east to west.
- Put together boards from boards or make from slate. It is important that the bed is 20 cm above the soil level.
- The width of the beds is 1 m. The length is as much as the raspberry bushes. Between plants, the distance is at least 1 m. Rarely planted bushes are better illuminated, blown. They are easy to take care of. The level of diseases decreases. This increases the yield of raspberries.
- Raspberries are planted on the ridge in early autumn.
- Pits are dug 30 * 30 cm wide. Planted one seedling at a time.
- Make wallpaper.
The yield of raspberries by this method is also depends on correct pruning . In the spring, after the raspberries give young shoots, carry out the first pruning.
In late May or early June, cut at a distance of 80-100 cm from the ground. At this height, it is convenient to take care of the bushes. They do not bend to the ground under the weight of the harvest.
In the second year, carry out a second pruning of bushes. side shoots should be cut to 10 cm. With this pruning, the bush becomes like a small tree.
It produces many flower stalks on which berries are tied. As a result, the yield on the bushes increases.
According to the Sobolev method it is better to transplant strong offspring to a new place, and cut the rest of the growth. Thus, the usual variety turns into a remontant. The bush bears fruit until late autumn.
In addition to pruning, raspberries also need proper care, which consists in watering, fertilizing and mulching.
Having formed a bed according to the Sobolev method, the gardener does not need to dig and loosen the soil. Raspberry is a moisture-loving plant, therefore there should be timely watering and you should not allow the land to dry out.
To retain moisture in the soil, add mulch to the ridge. If possible, then as mulch it is better to use fresh manure. Manure goes like fertilizer, and covers the soil from drying out and weeds.
If there is no manure available, then we mulch the bed available means. The layer of mulch should be at least 10 cm.
Despite the manure of the beds, possible nutrient deficiencies. You can determine it by the type of plant: the shoots become thin and weak, the color of the leaves changes - they curl, spots appear and the edges dry out.
In this case should be fertilized with organic: pour mullein infusion or chicken manure with wood ash.
How to make an infusion: in a third of the container, collect cow dung and fill to the top with water. Insist 2 days.
For irrigation, it must be diluted in water 1:10. That is, take 1 liter of infusion in a bucket of water, add a glass of wood ash. Mix thoroughly and pour over raspberries.
Before covering raspberries for the winter, you need to cut the fruiting branches under the root. Young stems of the current season should be bent gently to the soil and pinned with forks.
Now cover the bent stems for the winter. Cover with doomed branches, and cover with non-woven fabric, tarpaulin or any other material at hand. IN winter period artificial shelter will cover with snow, which will save it from freezing.
How to grow raspberries from seeds
Many varieties of raspberries can be grown from seed. The process is laborious, but interesting. What is needed for this?
- Buy raspberry seeds in the store or pick overripe berries of the variety you like.
- Squeeze a berry through gauze. Get a porridge. We dilute this gruel with water and wash the seeds. Empty seeds will float to the surface. They are not needed. Collect and dry the rest.
Seeds can be planted in open ground or grow seedlings in pots at home.
In the open ground
In early September, on a specially prepared bed, seeds are planted at a depth of 2 cm. Top cover with humus and sand.
We leave the seeds for the winter. The seeds will sprout in spring. Further care as usual.
In flower pots
To grow raspberry seedlings in pots, seeds must be stratified. To do this, place the seeds in a wet napkin for two weeks in the refrigerator.
After planting in pots or a special box. Prepare loose soil mix peat and soil in a ratio of 50 * 50.
Plant in pots in March: plant the seeds to a depth of 0.5 cm, water every 3 days. It should also be fertilized every 10 days with urea.
After the seeds germinate, we grow seedlings before the onset of heat. Then transplant raspberry seedlings into open ground.
Now you know about how to grow raspberries different methods how to care for her, how to grow raspberries from seeds. This will help you grow a good and tasty crop of raspberries.
Gardeners always have a lot of questions about how to grow raspberries, how to grow them so that they are tasty, sweet. Raspberry - very useful plant, which can be seen on almost every garden plot. This is one of the most delicious berries our gardens. But who among us did not notice on the bushes, now worms, then some kind of clumsy, hardened raspberries? Why did the twigs suddenly dry up with fruits that did not have time to ripen? We have selected the most frequently asked questions and tried to answer briefly.
How to choose the best place for raspberries?
Those gardeners who set aside a corner of the garden for her or plant her along the hedge are doing the right thing. This makes it easier to take care of her. But still, the corner of the garden is preferable, since it is there that a large amount of snow accumulates during the winter.
What is the best soil for raspberries?
Fertile, moist soils are most suitable for growing. The best for her are sandy-clayey, alluvial-meadow, which are more saturated nutrients, than others. Heavy clay soils and soils oversaturated with limestone are unacceptable for her.
How to prepare the soil for raspberries?
5-8 kg of manure, 70-80 g of superphosphate, 20-25 g of potassium sulfate are applied to the area intended for planting - this is per 1 sq. m. Scatter fertilizers evenly over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe site, dig it deep.
Do I need to plant several varieties of raspberries side by side for better pollination?
Most raspberry varieties are self-fertile, so there is no particular need to plant pollinating varieties nearby. Of course, you can plant several varieties side by side, but this will not interfere with pollination.
When to plant raspberries?
The best time of the year for planting or transplanting seedlings is autumn - late August - September. In the spring, you can plant only as an exception.
How to plant raspberry seedlings?
Pits for planting raspberries usually have dimensions of 30 × 30 × 30 cm. The seedlings are positioned so that after filling with soil they are below the ground (6-7 cm). The roots must be carefully straightened and covered. The soil around the seedling is compacted. For better conditions when watering, the soil is raked from the trunk - a small depression is made so that the water does not spread. After watering, the soil around the seedlings is mulched with peat, hay, straw, fallen leaves, and other mulch.
Do I need to prune raspberries after planting?
Need to. If not cut, then, firstly, it will give a small crop, secondly, new young shoots will not form, which will give a new crop, and thirdly, cut plants take root better. Therefore, immediately after planting, the stems are cut with secateurs, leaving stumps no more than 20-25 cm tall.
How far apart should raspberry seedlings be planted?
Between rows, a distance of 1-1.2 m should be left, and between seedlings - 50-60 cm.
How to propagate raspberries?
The main methods of reproduction are propagation by seeds, vegetatively. Reproduction by seeds amateur gardeners practically do not use. Usually, plants grown in this way rarely take valuable qualities from the original parent varieties. The vegetative method involves the use of young shoots from the roots (root offspring) or dividing the bush for propagation. This is the cheapest, fastest way.
How, when and why to care for raspberries?
If you do not take care of planting raspberries, then it will overgrow with weeds, which greatly deplete the bushes. There are few young shoots, they are weak. The berries become small, their taste deteriorates, the yield decreases.
Autumn digging between rows is required. First, excess young shoots are removed, and then they dig up the soil between the rows.
In the spring, before bud break (end of March-April), the soil between the bushes must be loosened. Deeper between rows - 10-15 cm, and next to plants - shallow - 5-7 cm, so as not to damage the root system.
From the beginning of the appearance of leaves and until the collection of berries, they are loosened two more times.
After harvesting, they loosen again, and then do not touch the aisles until autumn - annual shoots should ripen well.
How, when to water and how much water do raspberries need when watering?
Raspberries love watering. Most moisture is required when it blooms, when it is tied, the berries ripen - from May to August. The first time (of course, if there is no rain) they are watered before flowering (end of April), the second time - the end of May. Be sure to water 1-2 times when the berries are poured. Water for the last time after harvest.
Irrigation rate - 1-2 buckets of water for one plant. It is most convenient to water through the furrows, which are made on both sides of the row - a distance of 20-25 cm from the bushes.
How to cut raspberries?
Immediately after planting, the raspberry stalks are cut off, leaving stumps 20-25 cm high. In the second year, 2-3 young shoots are left - the rest are cut with secateurs to the ground, leaving no stumps.
As soon as the entire crop is harvested, all two-year-old shoots that have already fructified are cut out.
It is also recommended to prune in the spring, since after winter it is usually clear which shoots are weak, which ones were sick. Young shoots are cut out if there are a lot of them or they grow too often. No more than 10-12 young shoots are left per bush.
How to rejuvenate raspberry bushes?
In older bushes, the number of young shoots usually decreases. Sooner or later, the yield of such bushes decreases. Experienced gardeners know that yields can be restored by removing the old rhizome. In this case, there is an increase in the growth of young shoots. In parallel with the removal of the old rhizome, increased doses of organic and mineral fertilizers. Such rejuvenation should be carried out every 5-6 years.
How and what fertilize raspberries?
It is best for raspberries to alternate the application of organic and mineral fertilizers. The dosage is as follows - 1.5-3 kg of manure + 1 tablespoon (30 g) of superphosphate + 1 tbsp. spoon of potassium sulfate (30 g) per 1 sq. m. Organic matter (manure) is applied in autumn during deep digging of row spacing. Superphosphate is applied in the spring before bud break during the first loosening. Potassium sulphate - at the end of flowering. Fertilizers are evenly distributed over the surface of the soil, dug up or loosen it.
How long, how many years can raspberries grow in one place?
At good care you can grow it for 12-15 years without changing the planting site.
What are the fungal diseases of raspberries, how to deal with them?
Blue-purple spotting (didimela)
Signs: blue-violet spots appear on the stems at the point of attachment to the cutting - the leaves fall off, and the cuttings remain and droop. The culprit of the disease is the spores of the fungus overwinter on young raspberry shoots.
Control measures: remove, burn diseased shoots; spray with copper-containing preparations (chorus, Bordeaux liquid, HOM, others).
Drying of shoots (koniotirium)
This fungal disease manifests itself in the drying of shoots, sometimes along with berries.
Control measures: cut, burn the affected shoots; spraying with copper-containing preparations.
Anthracnose
Spores of the fungus infect shoots, berries, leaves, spots with a purple border appear on them.
Control measures: removal, burning of affected shoots along with leaves, berries; Spraying in late autumn, summer (2-3 times in 2 weeks) with copper-containing preparations that prevent the reproduction and development of the fungus.
Raspberry leaf rust
With this disease, light yellow spots appear on the upper part of the leaves, a little later in the same places, but orange-yellow pimples are visible from the bottom of the leaf, which eventually acquire a dark rusty color - these are spores of the fungus. The fungus that causes the disease overwinters on fallen leaves.
Control measures: spraying fallen leaves with copper-containing preparations. In the spring, the obligatory first spraying after the leaves bloom, repeated - after two weeks.
Raspberry leaf spot
Signs of the disease: white-dirty spots appear on the leaves. Fungus spores overwinter on fallen leaves.
Control measures: as soon as the first manifestations of the disease are noticed, spray with copper-containing preparations; fallen leaves are recommended to be burned.
What are the viral diseases of raspberries, how to deal with them?
From viral diseases the most famous are: yellow mosaic, witch's broom, yellow leaf venation, viral (infectious) chlorosis.
Witch's broom (growth, bushiness)
With a witch's broom disease, numerous thin shortened shoots form on the raspberry shoots - they become like a broom. Berries are tied much less.
yellow mosaic
With yellow mosaic disease, pale green spots first appear on raspberry leaves, which then turn yellow.
yellow veining of leaves
With yellow venation of the leaves, yellow stripes appear along the veins.
Infectious (viral chlorosis)
With infectious (viral) chlorosis, by mid-summer the leaves turn yellow, first along the veins, and then the entire leaf turns yellow, as in autumn.
All these diseases are viral in nature.
Control measures: root removal of diseased bushes; treatment with drugs that destroy pests - aphids, cicadas, others that are carriers of pathogenic viruses, for example, Actellik, Iskra, Karbofos, Kemifos, and others.
How to prevent the appearance of worms in raspberry berries?
The culprit for the appearance of wormy berries is the raspberry beetle. It hibernates as an adult in the ground, appears in the spring, eats buds, flowers. Raspberry beetle females lay their eggs inside the buds, flower buds, green raspberries. Beetle larvae (worms) live in berries, feed on them, and pupate in the soil. This cycle is repeated once a year.
Control measures: in the fall, dig up the soil, that is, disturb the wintering place of the raspberry beetle. And in the spring, spray the bushes until the leaves appear with one of the following preparations: Fufanon, Kemifos, Karbofos.
How to deal with raspberry agrilus?
Raspberry Agrilus is a beetle of a light gray-greenish color. Female beetles lay their eggs under the skin of raspberry stems. The emerging larvae make spiral passages inside the stems - the shoots die off.
Control measures - cutting, destruction (burning) of the affected shoots - this is the only way.
How to deal with stem raspberry gall midge?
Raspberry stem gall midge is a small mosquito that usually appears in May-June. Female mosquitoes lay their eggs under the skin of raspberry stalks. Larvae (worms) live inside the stem, feed on its pulp. Cones, outgrowths appear on the stem at the site of introduction of the larvae, inside which there is usually one larva, rarely 2-3. The stem at the site of the growth is easily broken. Sooner or later, nutrition stops coming to the top of the stem, the leaves wither, the shoots die off ahead of time, the crop dies.
Control measures: cutting off the affected branches, burning them; processing raspberries with mosquito repellents - infusions of tobacco, mullein, leaves walnut, bird cherry, nettle, wormwood, etc. Spray in the evening, as mosquitoes begin their activities at nightfall, all night.
How to deal with raspberry kidney moth?
Butterfly raspberry bud moth begins its vigorous activity during the flowering of raspberries - it lays eggs inside the flower. The caterpillar feeds on the juices of the flower, and then hides under the bark of the stem. In spring, the caterpillars penetrate into the kidneys, eat everything inside, and pupate there.
Control measures: spray during the swelling of the kidneys with a 30% solution of karbofos.
How to deal with leafworms, aphids and mites - raspberry pests?
leaf rollers
There are many varieties of leaflets. The common behavior for them is great mobility, when they are discovered, they begin to squirm violently and try to "escape" by descending on cobwebs. Leafworm caterpillars feed on leaves by buds. At the same time, the leaves are wrapped along the length or width of the sheet, which is why they are called leaflets.
Control measures: effective late-autumn and summer spraying with Actellik. In early spring, before bud break or in late autumn, spraying with preparation No. 30 is effective.
Aphid
Aphids suck juices from raspberry leaves, from shoots, berries. In this case, the affected leaves curl, the shoots stop growing. Aphids are dangerous because they are carriers of viral diseases.
Control measures. The drug Bi-58 is effective against aphids.
Ticks
A variety of ticks inflict great harm raspberries - the leaves turn pale, fall off, the berries remain small, tasteless. Late autumn in early spring before the leaves bloom, I advise you to treat the bushes with preparation No. 30, before the appearance of fruits - Bi-58.
How to deal with bacterial raspberry cancer?
It should be noted that almost all types of raspberries are unstable to bacterial cancer. It is impossible to save diseased plants; they must be destroyed. Measures for the prevention of seedlings before planting are relatively effective. Carefully select seedlings before buying, inspecting the roots - there should be no growths, thickenings. Drugs against bacterial cancer no raspberries yet. Do not plant it in place of plants removed due to disease for 2-3 years. The soil can be improved by planting legumes in this place for several years.
8 minutes to read
Raspberries are often called the queen of the garden. This name is well deserved, because it is one of the most popular berry crops grown on household plots. Raspberries deserve the love of summer residents because they are used in cooking as sweet fragrant berries, and leaves, and even branches of a bush. However, the plant is picky in planting and care. Consider how to plant raspberries in the summer.
Plant features
Raspberry is a perennial deciduous shrub. In one place, this representative of the genus Rubus can grow 5-8 years or more without losing high yield. Remontant varieties are distinguished by the fact that they bear fruit several times a year.
Reference. An interesting feature raspberries is that the berries appear on lignified stems of the second year. After fruiting, the branch dries up. A year later, new replacement shoots grow from the rhizome.
After 5-7 years at the raspberry bush at the base of the last year's shoot, instead of two or three, only one bud sprouts. The more years the shrub, the less fruit-bearing replacement shoots it forms. Therefore, the bush needs rejuvenation. And in order to always have fresh raspberries on the table, the gardener needs to know how to properly plant and care for her.
fruiting raspberries
A characteristic feature of most varieties is its ability to grow rapidly:
- root system it can take a diameter of about 4 m, and the depth of the roots is 1.5 m. This property helps the shrub to better tolerate drought, but adversely affects the yield;
- in summer, many weak buds form on adventitious roots in the form of tubercles, from which grow by the next season root shoots. They are cut with a shovel by 5-7 cm. If you do not prevent the appearance of such shoots, the quality of fruiting will decrease.
Varieties and groups of raspberries
Depending on the degree of density, raspberry varieties are divided into three groups:
- the first group includes the varieties Gusar, Skromnitsa, Meteor, Indian summer. They can be planted quite close, as the shrubs are distinguished by a moderate amount of overgrowth. The number of replacement shoots in most cases equals the number of fruit-bearing stems;
- the second group includes varieties that are characterized by a rare growth of shoots. Such shrubs have a loose appearance - these are Hercules, Maroseyka, Pokus;
- the third group consists of varieties that abundantly give young shoots. Shrubs of the Heritage variety, Polan will need to be thinned out.
Raspberry propagation
Raspberry varieties Hercules
Propagating a shrub vegetatively is available in several ways:
- The division of the bush. This procedure is carried out in the spring before bud break or at the end of the season after leaf fall.
- Root offspring. In autumn, planting material with well-developed roots and bud rudiments is chosen.
- Young offspring. In summer, raspberry shrubs are propagated by cuttings in the first decade of June.
Important! If the gardener does not want to destroy the shoots and use it more rationally - better way than using it to propagate raspberries is hard to imagine. But to get healthy and strong bushes, you should strictly follow some rules for planting raspberry cuttings: choosing a place, preparing the site and cuttings, and planting technology.
Choosing a place for planting raspberries
In addition to the fact that raspberries prefer places well lit by the sun and protected from the wind, you need to take into account some more nuances of choosing a site:
- it is undesirable to place raspberries in the beds where strawberries, peppers, eggplants, and potatoes were previously planted;
- it is not recommended to breed perennials again on those soils where there were old raspberries;
- a favorable place is the soil after harvesting parsley, dill, onion, garlic, legumes, calendula;
- it will be extremely successful to place young plantings in the area after the alkaloid lupine - it perfectly cleans the soil from the beetle, which causes irreparable harm to the raspberries.
Site preparation
The soil for raspberries must meet the following conditions:
- The composition of the soil is light loam.
- Groundwater - no deeper than 1.5 m.
- The earth should contain a large amount of fluorine and calcium.
Raspberry varieties Heritage
Before planting under raspberries, a nutrient soil mixture is prepared:
- 10 kg of humus or compost;
- 400 g of ash;
- 100 g of superphosphate;
- 50 g of potassium sulfate.
Preparing cuttings for planting
Planting material, whether it be shoots or root cuttings, must be prepared:
- Old, weak and damaged roots should be cut off.
- Treat the cut points with crushed charcoal.
- Cut off the top of the seedling - the shoot should be no more than 20 cm long.
- All leaves on the shoot are removed.
- The stalk is placed in water for a while, before planting, shake and straighten the remaining roots.
Reference. To propagate a favorite variety, a gardener needs only one single lignified shoot, green offspring or root cutting no more than 10 cm long, 3-5 mm in diameter. If there is a choice, it is preferable that the cuttings are larger and already have buds.
trench preparation
Raspberries are planted in rows in trenches. The distance between seedlings is kept 50-80 cm, between rows - about 1 m. The trenches are prepared in the following sizes:
- width - 60-70 cm;
- depth - 40-50 cm.
Row aisles are mulched to keep weeds out. Sometimes it is enough to throw sheets of old cut linoleum there. In the future, this will greatly simplify the care of raspberries.
At the edges of the rows, columns are dug in, between which 2-3 wires are pulled. Later, raspberries will be tied to them. A third of the trench is filled with prepared nutrient soil mixture. After planting the seedlings, the remaining volume is covered with a layer of fertile soil.
Planting raspberries
Raspberry cuttings can be planted in several ways. The simplest is planting seedlings of 2 pcs. in one landing hole:
- The cuttings are immersed in the ground to the depth of the thumb.
- After planting, the earth is not recommended to be compacted, the soil around the seedlings is slightly pressed.
- Each cutting is tied at the top to a stretched wire. In the future, you will need to tie up the shoots growing from the roots.
- Watering requires moderate, mainly in dry weather.
If there are few cuttings, they are advised to use them as sources of sprouts, which are subsequently rooted. For this:
- when the cuttings begin to peek out of the ground, they are spudded and the nutrient mixture is poured on top to a thickness of 2-3 cm;
- when the sprout grows above the ground and gives 2-3 leaves, it is cut off at the level of the appearance of the cutting;
- cut sprouts are planted in the ground to take root.
At the end of summer, the shoots of the first year can be propagated by dropping the tops. For this, a special nutrient substrate is prepared from peat, compost and wood ash. Pots are molded from this mass, which are installed on a gutter at a height of 20-30 cm above the ground. The stem is tilted to the pot and the top is planted there. Plantings need to be watered.
Propagation of raspberries by layering
For faster rooting, the stem is wrapped in a plastic bag:
- The bottom of the bag is cut off, one side is tied to the pot.
- Pull it over a sprig of raspberries and tie around the stem.
- Such wrapped nurseries are watered 2-3 times a week without removing the package. To do this, water is poured into the gutter.
In the last decade of September, the rooted shoot is cut off from the mother bush. It is planted without taking it out of the nutrient pot. This type of reproduction gives top scores than rooting the top directly in the ground. From a sharp bend, the branches often break, the cuttings take root worse, and the raspberries themselves develop poorly.
If weather do not allow cuttings to be planted directly in open ground, they can be rooted in protected ground. For this, the nutrient substrate is prepared from a mixture of peat, sod land, sand in ratios 2:1:1. Planting depth in a box is about 3-5 cm. Care consists in regular watering.
Raspberry care
In the year of planting, thanks to the rich nutrients soil raspberries do not need top dressing. Of the mandatory agricultural practices for care is the provision of irrigation during dry periods.
The formation of a bush begins when the planted shoot reaches 15 cm in length. At this stage, it is pinched for the first time. When the newly formed shoots grow by 20 cm, they are pinched again. The third pinching is carried out as soon as the stems of the third order stretch to 20 cm. Subsequently, a well-branched shrub is obtained, which is capable of producing about 3 kg of berries.
An adult plant needs pruning. The shrub has a two-year fruiting cycle. The shoot of the first year does not produce a crop. Berries appear in the second year of life, after which the stem dries up, and other replacement shoots grow. Pruning is carried out according to the following scheme:
- The bush is carefully examined to highlight 6-7 strong young shoots.
- The rest must be cut to the ground.
- After harvesting, the fruiting shoots are removed.
Important! In progress sanitary pruning in early spring, no more than 15 cm of the top is removed. The middle part of the shoot produces less fruit than the top. The lower part of the stem practically does not bear fruit.
Raspberry roots are located close to the surface of the earth, so they do not dig the soil near the shrub. Loosening the soil is carried out only in the aisles. After that, mulching is performed.
Raspberry propagation by cuttings
Plant residues of crops, freshly cut grass, compost, humus are used as mulch. The layer is made thick, sparing no raw materials. Such mulching retains moisture well and protects the roots from overheating on hot summer days.
Fertilization
Fertilizer is applied under raspberries in spring, summer and autumn.
- In the spring, nitrogen fertilizers are applied, fed with urea, ammonium nitrate. The procedure is carried out before mulching. For 1 square meter of raspberries, 8 g of fertilizer is required.
- In summer, during flowering, a mineral complex containing nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium is introduced; after fruiting, potassium-phosphorus top dressing is carried out; at the end of the growing season, raspberries need phosphate fertilizers.
- In autumn, green manure is used as a fertilizer. Clover, white mustard are planted in the aisles of raspberries in the middle of summer, and after harvesting in the fall, the mowed green mass is embedded in the soil.
Organic fertilizers are a good help. In the spring, raspberries can be fed with a solution of mullein (1:10) or bird droppings (1:20). Bone meal is applied under bushes in summer. At the end of the season in trunk circles pour wood ash.
Adhering to such simple rules you can get a good fruiting bush in a few months. Choose quality planting material, root it properly, apply enough fertilizer - and on your personal plot always will be excellent harvest raspberries.
Raspberry planting (video)
https://youtu.be/FWQ8ST-_jBo
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Before planting raspberries, you need to decide on the optimal timing for this process. There are many opinions on when to do this. Most gardeners prefer it, as they have many advantages. Firstly, the plant does not dry out and does not require constant abundant watering, as in summer. Even ordinary precipitation will be enough to maintain all the vital functions of the seedling.
Now a little about how to plant raspberries in autumn optimal time. To define it. It is necessary to look at the stem itself, several replacement buds should form on it. At this time, you can safely dig out the process, transfer it to new house. Early ones form several replacement buds already in the second decade of September, but late varieties can oversleep until the middle or even the end of October. You can’t dig too early, it’s better to be a little late with this process, since the new bush will not be able to take root due to the lack of a sufficient number of roots in the system. And, of course, you can propagate a "dummy" that will not bring the required number of berries. Therefore, we wait, we monitor the formation of kidneys.
Before planting raspberries, you must definitely look at the weather forecast so that the next 3 weeks will not be sub-zero temperature and even at night. The plant must take root qualitatively, form several lateral roots, only in this case it will be able to wait out the winter under the cover of snow without any problems. If you do not have time to do everything in the fall, it is better to “preserve” the seedlings in the basement until spring, only then place them in the soil. To do this, you need to drop them into plastic bottle with a cut throat, pour water, make high-quality drainage. At low temperatures(+5-7 degrees) and periodic watering, they can easily stand for 3-5 months, after which they will need to be transferred to prepared pits.
Apart from autumn planting practice spring, summer landing. In the first case, the operation is carried out around the beginning of April. It is necessary to shorten the stems to a height of 20-25 centimeters, even if they have already grown a little and much higher. It is necessary to choose only with a good root system so that white shoots are present- the first sign that the plant is "alive". You can do this in the summer, around the beginning of July, when one-year-old seedlings are transferred, separated from the mother bush. The disadvantage is that reverent care is needed, constant watering, the installation of a darkening fabric so that the process does not burn out, and much more. That is why summer, spring operations are less popular with experienced gardeners and, in general, give preference to autumn care.
In autumn, you can not cut off the leaves - they will fall off themselves after transplantation, but in the spring you need to leave 2-3 pairs, no more, since weak roots will not be able to give right amount moisture to the stem to nourish the leaves. As a result, there is a high probability of drying out.
Choosing the best location for a new plantation
Before you plant raspberries in the fall, you need to choose the right place for it. There are several criteria for making the right choice.
The first is a place protected from the wind, this requirement is mandatory if you want to receive annually good harvests. Bushes love warmth, calmness, especially in autumn, when the temperature drops to 5-7 degrees. Even with this relative warmth, your plantation can freeze, because a strong wind significantly increases the heat exchange of the bark, and the movement of juice at this time is even greater. Thus, the most dangerous time for raspberries - the beginning of frost, when it is too early to wrap the bushes, figure it out, and the risk of frostbite is high.
Second important point- bright place If you read somewhere that raspberries grow better in the shade, this is only partially true. It grows, perhaps a little better, but it bears fruit very poorly. She is like watermelons - she needs a lot of light, moderate humidity, otherwise it is simply unrealistic to wait for good fruiting. It cannot be the lower tier in the front garden, the trees above it will significantly reduce the number of berries that you could get. That is why it is necessary to place the raspberry tree in an open area, which will be illuminated throughout the entire sunny day. It is better to water a few extra times, but to collect a large number of berries in the summer.
A well-drained site is the key to success. The "pitting" method of landing gradually faded into the background, the trench became the leader. It allows the best way optimize watering, fertilizing a large number of bushes at once. It is necessary to first prepare the place and dig grooves 40 cm wide and up to 40 centimeters deep. Next, apply organic fertilizers and let stand for several months. That is, it must be done somewhere in August or even earlier. An indispensable step in preparing the place is ash - it will improve the taste of the berries, make them juicy, sweet.
The location of the trenches is desirable to be done along the north-south compass needle. This is important enough, as they will catch more light, as a result, they will develop faster and bear more fruit. We immediately lay the distance between the rows at 90 centimeters, do not allow the growth to win back the free space for passage from you - there will be almost no sense from it, but there are more than enough inconveniences.
We have already figured out how to plant raspberries correctly, now let's move on to the soil. Bushes do not grow on peat bogs, pure black soil, clay. Even if they grow, they are short-lived or unproductive. The best option is sandy and sandy soils. The only drawback is the lack of fertilizer, so you have to constantly feed the plants organic fertilizers and potassium nitrate for fruits. There must be drainage in the soil, otherwise the roots will feel bad. If you plant in a trench, then you need to fill in at least 10 centimeters of rubble, 10 centimeters of sand, and only then proceed to fertile soil and sandy soils.
Fertilizer and aftercare
Before you properly plant raspberries, you need to take care of fertilizers. They should be applied not only annually, but also immediately after the root system gets to a new place - it needs to grow well and provide the leaves with all necessary components. The first step is to apply nitrogen fertilizers. 100 grams per 1 square meter will be quite enough. Saltpeter or diluted chicken manure 5% will do. These are the largest sources of nitrogen, but remember that nitrogen can burn the roots, so direct contact of these substances with the stem of the plant should not be allowed. If the ground is sandy, then the dose nitrogen fertilizers should be divided into 2 parts. 1 to be applied immediately after transplantation, the other in 2-3 weeks.
Foliar feeding is not necessary. They only stimulate the growth of the vegetative mass, which the root system does not have time to provide with all the necessary substances. It is recommended to apply foliar fertilizer only after 6-7 pairs of leaves are formed, and the dose should be reduced by 50% so that there is no excess nitrogen and leaf plates are not burned.
How to plant raspberries in autumn without loss - storage of outsider seedlings
It often happens that there is much more planting material than was necessary, or the planting dates have unexpectedly passed. It is at such moments that “preservation of seedlings” for the winter becomes relevant. If you don’t know how to properly bottle them or how to plant raspberries in the spring from such a “bun”, it doesn’t matter, now we’ll figure it out.
The first step is to check the roots of the plant, it is necessary that light color. Next, we take a few kilograms of sawdust and fill it with water - this will be the right substrate for conservation. Putting it all in plastic bag(or in a two-liter plastic bottle, if there is only 1 seedling) and place it in the basement until the time when the temperature in spring is at least +5 degrees. Planting material should be stored at a relatively cool temperature, no more than +7 degrees, so that the exchange of juice in the plant is minimal. This will allow him to make an artificial winter, growth will improve significantly during the onset of heat.
It is not necessary to fertilize the substrate, the main task is to limit it from all useful substances, warmth, so that raspberries begin to grow only at the beginning of April or even later, and all this time they “slept”. Now we figured out how to store, how to plant raspberries in the fall, so as not to lose anything. Then you only need to periodically water the front garden, pick berries on time - you are guaranteed a big harvest!
