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Pepper care in the open field and in the greenhouse. Peppers in a greenhouse, planting, growing and care Early ripe peppers growing in a greenhouse soil temperature

Sweet bell pepper contains many vitamins. It is considered an antidepressant and serves as a preventive measure for many diseases. To have this vitamin on your table at any time of the year, you can plant it in your own greenhouse. And in order for the harvest to be rich, it is important to know the features and subtleties of caring for this fragile plant.

Soil preparation for planting

Since pepper is very thermophilic, you need to plant seedlings when average daily temperature air will be 10 degrees Celsius. A polycarbonate greenhouse is well suited for growing peppers. It is she who protects against temperature extremes.

Planting seedlings is best done in late spring - early summer. Do not plant pepper in cold soil, it should be warm, for this you can place manure on it.

It is best to start preparing the garden for planting with autumn period. So that the soil does not freeze, hay or grass should be buried to a depth of about 30 centimeters in the fall. Thanks to this method, you can also warm the earth in the spring.

Before planting pepper, the soil must be properly prepared. First, it must be dug well so that it is loose. After that, add fertilizer. To do this, a mixture of the following ingredients is made:

• 1 glass of ash;
• humus;
• 1 glass of double superphosphate;
• 25 grams of saltpeter for each sq. soil meter.

You need to fertilize the soil 24 hours before planting pepper, and right before planting, you should dig the ground again.

The soil for pepper should not be acidic. Dolomite flour can help remove acidity. Using it is very simple: scatter 15-20 days before planting 100 grams of flour per square. meter of beds prepared for pepper.

If you don't know what the acidity of the soil is, it can be easily determined. Take a teaspoon of soil, but not from the very top layer, put it on a dark flat surface and pour 9% vinegar. If foam appears, then there is more alkali in the soil, if there is little foam, then there is a sufficient amount of both alkali and acid in it, and if there is no foam at all, then the soil is acidic.

Pepper planting

Before planting, seedlings should be well watered (2-3 hours before planting). Planting peppers is best in the evening. During landing, you must consider the following rules:

• Do not plant peppers in the place where tomatoes previously grew. The best soil for pepper - after cabbage.
• Don't plant near different varieties peppers: sweet and bitter, as all peppers can become bitter.
• When planting, you need to ensure that only the root of the plant is in the soil. If there is also a stalk, then this can slow down the growth of the pepper.
• Before planting, add peat to each hole in the greenhouse, it will help the roots to be healthy.
• Peppers should be planted at a distance of at least 30 centimeters from each other. If the pepper is undersized, then 20-25 cm will be enough.
• The distance between the beds should be about 80 centimeters.
• After planting, fertilize the soil surface, and especially the planting site of each bush, with humus. This will help the pepper get used to the new conditions faster.

Read more about how to properly plant seedlings bell pepper in the greenhouse, you can see in the video clip:

top dressing

• 10 grams of ammonium nitrate;
• 30 grams of double superphosphate;
• 20 grams of calcium nitrate.

This proportion is calculated for 10 liters of water. Water all planted plants with this remedy.

In addition to such top dressing, you also need to use organic, because it brings the ripening time of pepper closer. To prepare it, mix mullein with water in a ratio of 1: 4. Let it brew for about a week. After that, add the same amount of water and mix. It is desirable to use such top dressing in the evening when watering.

Care

The temperature in the greenhouse for pepper should be at least +16 degrees. Sweet pepper is a heat-loving plant, but the temperature should not exceed 35 degrees. In this case, it is necessary to create a shadow for the pepper.

Peppers need to be watered often, with a small amount of water. Don't water too much - the roots may start to rot.

Pepper is unpretentious, it grows and ripens at room temperature and does not require special growing conditions. However, he needs competent care: garter, top dressing, weeding and mulching.

After the first feeding, described above, the second is carried out after 2 weeks. It is made from the same ingredients, but the minerals in the composition are doubled.

It is also very useful to feed the pepper with nettle infusion. To prepare it, mix nettle with water 1:10 and let it brew for two days. During the season, it is necessary to feed chicken manure 4 times, mixing it with water 1:10. This type of fertilizer should be alternated with a foliar fertilizer, for example, with a mineral fertilizer such as nitrophoska. 1 tablespoon should be diluted with a bucket of water.

Remove in hot, humid weather side shoots, especially on the lower stepchildren. If the weather is dry, then this is not worth it. It is also worth removing the flower from the bush, which is located in the center and grows from the first branch. This will help you get more yield.

During the growing season, pepper must be pruned, removing the longest shoots - processes located below the main fork of the stem and inside the crown. Hold this event every 10 days.

Peppers need to be mulched with straw with a layer of about 10 centimeters. Thanks to this, the plant can be watered less often, and it will also be protected from diseases. Straw does not let the sun through, so use it in greenhouses that are not heated, only after frost. And if there is heating in the greenhouse, then you can mulch the pepper at any time after planting.

It is also necessary to tie up the pepper, as it is very fragile. This is done after mulching. It is best to tie to a trellis installation, but you can simply tie it to pegs. Be careful not to damage the plant.

Peppers do not grow well in dense soil, so it is worth loosening it once a week. This should be done carefully, with a small rake, without touching the roots of the plants.

Pests and diseases

Frequent pests affecting peppers in the greenhouse are Colorado potato beetles, aphids, May beetle larvae, bears and ticks. For prevention, you need to regularly carefully examine the plants.

If you find a spider mite on a pepper, Fitoverm and Lepidocide are best for removing it.

Mix all the ingredients and make balls out of them, spread them around the greenhouse.

In order for the harvest not to be spoiled by the bear, fill the holes one hour before planting the seedlings clean water. After planting, spray the peppers with a spray bottle. Every season 3 times it is necessary to spray wood ash on the plants. This will help the pepper from diseases and pests.

Among the diseases of pepper, the most common are: macrosporiosis, top and white rot, black leg and late blight.

Bush formation

It is necessary to form a bush in order to increase the yield. There are varieties of pepper that do not need to be formed, among them are weakly branching varieties and hybrids of pepper: Swallow, Topolin, Zodiac, Florida, Barguzin, Dobryak and others.

If the pepper bushes are undersized - about 50 cm, then it is enough to simply cut off the weak shoots. High - become heavy and large, and there are not enough nutrients for fruit development.

Tall bushes are those whose height is more than a meter. Under such conditions, diseases develop and pests appear. To avoid this, you need to make the bush less frequent, as well as improve the conditions: lighting, temperature and humidity.

The formation of a bush occurs in several stages:

• If you grow seedlings yourself, then you should start forming a bush when the stems are about 15 cm tall. At this height, the stem begins to divide into branches. A bud appears at the place of their connection. It's best to remove it.
• When you transfer the seedlings to the greenhouse, plant them in such a way that the bush can be increased by several branches. Usually these peppers are planted 4-6 pieces per 1 square meter.
• To form a bush, you need to remove excess barren shoots and cut the plant. Shoots and leaves should be removed, which are located below before the first branching.
• Branches that form after branching are called lateral branches of the first order. They grow in stems with leaves. In the axil of these leaves, shoots, stepchildren are formed. They should be removed with a pinch.
• The middle branch of the first order is divided into 2 shoots. You need to leave the stronger one along with the leaves and buds. A weaker escape must be removed.
• The same must be done with the branches of the third order.
• When inspecting the plant, always remove budless shoots and yellow leaves.

All these actions must be performed until the growth of the bush reaches 1-1.2 meters. Then you need to cut off the top of the plant, this will help redirect all the vitamins from the stem to the fruits themselves. And a month and a half before harvesting, it is necessary to cut off the tops of all orders.

Harvesting

You can harvest when the weather turns cold. Frosts are not terrible for pepper in a greenhouse, but in this case its development and ripening stops.

In order to increase the yield, pluck the fruits as soon as they ripen. Do this at least once a week. However, it should be remembered that ripe peppers should be eaten almost immediately, and slightly unripe ones are suitable for canning and freezing.

Pepper in a greenhouse is able to grow any summer resident who knows the basic rules for planting and caring for this plant. In summer it can be grown on own garden, but in the cold season, greenhouses will come to your aid. Thanks to them, you have a great chance to create the right conditions for growing this crop.

Knowing when it is better to plant peppers, how to prepare the soil, what kind of greenhouse to use, and much more, is necessary for both novice gardeners and those who have been growing plants for more than a year. To do this, we recommend that you read our article and find answers to all your questions.

The rules for planting bell pepper in a greenhouse will help you avoid mistakes in the process of growing this crop. It is necessary to plant pepper with special care, since the fate of the crop depends on it. In general, the landing process can be divided into two stages: preparatory work and the landing itself. We will talk about each of them in more detail in our article.

Soil preparation

Soil preparation is a set of actions in which a gardener fertilizes the ground. by special means or dig it up so that the seedlings take root and take root. This is very important process, since not only the yield of pepper, but also the life of the plant as a whole depends on the condition of the soil. If there are not enough trace elements necessary for the culture in the soil, then the sweet pepper bushes will simply wither.

So, here are some tips, following which you can quickly and easily prepare the soil for planting peppers in your home greenhouse.

1. First you need to prepare the site on which the pepper will grow. The land must be fertile, it is desirable to take it from the garden. It is better to remove the top layer of soil where cabbage, onions or carrots have grown before.
2. Bring soil into the greenhouse better in autumn a few weeks before frost. Then it must be mixed with compost, based on the proportion of five kilograms of fertilizer per square meter of soil.
3. Then immediately dig up the beds, plunging a shovel into the ground to a depth of at least ten centimeters.
4. Before planting, the land should be treated with organic, nitrogen and phosphate fertilizers.

After that, the soil will be ready for you to plant seedlings in it. At the same time, take into account the fact that the plant cannot be planted in soil with high acidity. Therefore, before planting, it is better to add dolomite flour to the soil, based on the proportion of two tablespoons per square meter.

Landing

Planting pepper in a greenhouse is an equally important process that requires care and accuracy. The planting technology itself is quite simple, but it has several nuances that both beginners and "experienced" gardeners need to know.

First you need to determine whether the seedlings are ready for planting. You can do this by following the signs:

• sprouts should be a rich green color without yellowness and darkened areas;
• from the moment of sowing the seeds in pots, at least fifty-five days must pass;
• the beginnings of buds have already appeared on the seedlings;
• the number of leaves on the sprouts is at least twelve pieces;
• seedling height not less than twenty-five centimeters.

After making sure that the seedlings are ready for transplanting into greenhouse soil, it is also necessary to take into account that the air temperature in the greenhouse should be at least fifteen degrees above zero. If the greenhouse is not heated, then naturally such a temperature can only be obtained in May. If there is heating, you can plant a crop starting from the end of March.

After all the checks and preparations are over, you can get down to business. How to plant yourself Bell pepper in a greenhouse, our article will tell you. To properly plant a crop, follow the following recommendations:

1. First, equip the beds for planting seedlings. The distance between rows should be at least fifty centimeters, but the distance between the bushes depends on the variety of pepper. Vigorous plants should be planted at a distance of at least thirty-five centimeters from each other, medium-sized - at least thirty, and the lowest should be at least fifteen centimeters apart.
2. In the garden, make holes in accordance with the distance indicated above for a particular variety of bell pepper.
3. About two liters of water should be poured into each hole so that the contact of the seedling roots with moist soil is closer.
4. When planting sprouts in the ground, try not to deepen them too much into the ground, as this will negatively affect the growth rate of the plant.
5. Plant the bell pepper in the holes, cover it with earth very carefully, then lightly trample the soil with your palm, without touching the sprouts.
6. On top of the soil, you need to lay out fertilizer in the form of humus, and then pour the plant with water in the amount of one liter per bush.

That's all. As you can see, nothing complicated. However, it is not enough just to plant peppers to get a quality crop. It is necessary to carefully monitor and care for seedlings, since planting and caring for pepper in a greenhouse are the main stages in growing a plant. You will learn more about this in the next section.

How to care?

You need to carefully take care of the bell pepper in the greenhouse, since in the first two weeks of growth the plant will be very weak, and it will certainly seem to you that it is about to die. But in fact, this is a normal seedling reaction to planting in greenhouse soil. At this time, it is very important to provide the plants with high-quality and proper care so that they gain a foothold and bear fruit in time.

The first two weeks you need to monitor the following parameters:

• lighting (peppers that grow in the shade will give very small and tasteless fruits);
• temperature conditions (the temperature in the greenhouse should not be lower than twenty-three and not higher than twenty-nine degrees above zero);
• regularity of watering (so that the plant is not sluggish, you should water it at least twice a week, but you don’t need to overdo it, otherwise the roots of the bush will begin to rot);
• air penetration to the roots (the soil should be periodically loosened);
• air humidity (for comfortable growth, it should not exceed seventy-five percent).

Further care, when the bell pepper seedlings are accepted and the formation of the bush begins, will be somewhat easier. All you need to do is water the plants in time approximately once a week (at least ten liters of water per square meter of bed), mulch the pepper with sawdust or straw once or twice before fruit set, provide top dressing in the form of organic fertilizers (during during flowering and during fruit set), as well as periodically tie up shrubs.

Growing and caring for peppers in a greenhouse are the main factors that every gardener should know about. However, there are some features that are important for every gardener to know.

Growing features

Also, bell peppers in the greenhouse must be tied up so that the trunk of the bush does not bend or break under the weight of the fruit. This must be done very carefully, since the stalks of bell pepper are very fragile, and you can easily break them, which will negatively affect the growth and yield of the crop.

Many gardeners, growing sweet peppers in a greenhouse, say that harvesting is also important point. You need to collect fruits thirty-five to forty days after the start of flowering. It is better not to cut off, but to cut off the stem of the pepper, so as not to damage the entire plant, the trunk and stems of which are very fragile.

Another point is the material of the greenhouse. It is recommended to grow sweet peppers in a home-made or ready-made polycarbonate greenhouse, since it is this material that is able to retain heat well and let through sunlight exactly in the amount that this culture needs.

Knowing all these simple rules, you can easily grow pepper in a greenhouse, getting a large and high-quality crop and not spending a lot of time on caring for and growing a crop.

To get a bountiful harvest of vegetables, it is necessary to provide plants with comfortable conditions existence. These are light, heat, moisture and nutrition. Bulgarian pepper growing in a greenhouse needs regular top dressing throughout the growing season.

There are two types of dressings: root and foliar.

• Nutrient solutions, dry granules of long-lasting fertilizers and humus in the form of mulch are introduced under the root.
• Foliar feeding is the spraying of a nutrient solution on the leaves of a plant.

Important! The solution for spraying is prepared in a concentration twice as weak as for watering under the root. Processing of plants must be carried out in cloudy weather or in the evening to avoid burns to the foliage.

The standard frequency of fertilizing for sweet peppers is once every 2 weeks, starting from the age of the appearance of a pair of true leaves. The composition of the soil in which the plant is planted matters. If the soil is fertile or has been thoroughly fertilized, the number of top dressings is reduced to 3-4 per season.

Important! Watering with a nutrient solution under the root is carried out only on wet ground. Peppers are pre-watered with ordinary clean water so that the roots do not get burnt from the fertilizer.

Plants need a full spectrum of nutrients, but nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus are especially important for them.

1. Nitrogen fertilizers affect the growth of green mass. Peppers need nitrogen at the very beginning of the growing season, when the stem and leaves are actively increasing in size.
2. Potassium and phosphorus influence flowering and fruit set. These elements are given to the plant during the period of flowering and ripening of the crop.

There are other substances necessary for the plant in microdoses: manganese, zinc, iodine, magnesium, iron. Their deficiency weakens the plant, reduces resistance to adverse conditions and diseases.

There is a conditional division of fertilizers that are used to feed bell peppers. These are mineral fertilizers and organic matter. The former are obtained artificially, by isolation from rocks and as a by-product of technical production. Organics is what nature gives: humus, manure, ash.

Adherents of organic farming prefer to use only organic fertilizers and folk remedies (decoctions and infusions of herbs, bread) so as not to harm the environment and get an environmentally friendly product.

Most farmers advise to combine mineral and organic fertilizers, since the effectiveness of some folk remedies small.

mineral

The chemical industry offers gardeners and gardeners mineral fertilizers:

• in the form of granules, for direct application to the soil;
• powder for dissolving in water;
• in the form of a ready-to-use solution.

There are separate, narrowly targeted compounds (for example, urea - nitrogen fertilizer) and complex preparations (superphosphate).

For bell pepper, the following mineral fertilizers are used:

• urea is a nitrogen fertilizer that slightly acidifies the soil (dosage - 30 g per 10 liters of water);
• superphosphate - granules containing phosphorus are applied to the soil at a rate of 40 g per 1 sq. m;
• potassium sulfate, potassium sulfate - potash fertilizers(dosage of application 25-30 g per 1 sq. m.);
• ammofoska - a complex fertilizer for vegetables containing phosphorus and nitrogen;
• Azofoska is a granular complex preparation containing potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen.

In addition to these fertilizers, in garden stores you can buy complexes of trace elements containing magnesium, boron, zinc, copper, manganese, and iron. For example: MagBor, Ferrovit, blue vitriol.

When using mineral fertilizers in the greenhouse and open ground, one should be aware of their toxicity and follow the rules for use:

• wear special work clothes and equipment personal protection- gloves;
• do not use food utensils for diluting preparations;
• dilute drugs with water in strict accordance with the instructions, without exceeding the dosage;
• do not exceed the recommended short fertilizing.

Due to the high concentration of the active substance, fertilizing with mineral fertilizers is carried out only after abundant watering of the plants with clean water. This will help to avoid burning the roots with the nutrient solution.

This group includes substances consisting of organic compounds:

• livestock manure and bird droppings;
• compost made from plant residues and grass;
• peat;
• green manure (plants that are specially planted on the site for subsequent incorporation into the soil).

For top dressing of peppers, manure of cows, horses and goats (sheep) is used, after preliminary composting for 2-3 years. The rate of manure application to the soil is from 5 to 10 kg per 1 sq. m, depending on soil fertility. Horse dung considered the best for arranging high warm ridges in a greenhouse. It warms up well, but does not burn the roots of plants.

On a note. Manure tends to extinguish excessive acidity of the soil.

Bird (chicken) droppings are highly concentrated. It is applied under pepper in the form of an aqueous infusion, at a dosage of 1 kg of litter per 15 liters of water. The solution contains a maximum of nitrogen, therefore it is used in the first half of the growing season of pepper.

Composting of plant residues from the garden, weeds, fallen leaves is actively practiced by gardeners who are unable to purchase manure. Compost aged 3-5 years is a valuable complex fertilizer that is applied to the soil before planting a crop, in the same doses as manure.

On a note. You can improve the quality of the prepared compost by watering the pile with Baikal.

Instead of humus, gardeners often use biohumus, a waste product of dung worms. Biohumus is applied to the soil, dissolved in water and the plants are watered under the root. Biohumus is rich in all substances necessary for pepper and does not harm nature.

Sowing green manure (mustard, rye, clover, phacelia) is practiced to improve the soil and enrich it with nutrients. When green manure grass grows 20-25 cm, it is crushed and plowed into the soil, where the green mass rots. In the greenhouse, green manure is sown after harvesting the main crops.

For gardeners, the industry offers ready-made compositions for feeding pepper, in which all the elements necessary for the plant are selected in the correct concentration. They can combine organic and mineral fertilizers in optimal proportions.

The most popular brands are: OMU, Vegetable Kemira, Kind Force, Agricola, Hera, Forte, AVA. It is enough to apply prolonged fertilizers (OMU, AVA) once when planting seedlings in a greenhouse, and the plant will be provided with food for the whole season.

On sale you can also find humic fertilizers - extracts from organic fertilizers (manure, peat, silt). Preparations do not harm plants and the environment, contain essential nutrients and trace elements.

As affordable, inexpensive and non-harmful top dressings, there are:

• herbal infusion;
• ash;
• yeast infusion;
• iodine.

Ash from burning grass, hay, straw and wood, a rich source of phosphorus, potassium and trace elements for the plant in an accessible form. Ash powder can be applied to the soil to reduce acidity, at a dose of 250-300 g per 1 sq. m.

To feed seedlings and adult peppers, an ash infusion is prepared: 2.5 st. spoons of powder pour 5 liters hot water(but not boiling water!) and insist for a day. Before use, the infusion must be filtered.

Green herb infusion is a source of nitrogen for peppers. It is prepared right in the greenhouse, stuffing a barrel with chopped grass by a third and pouring it with water. The grass sours for about a week, during this time the mass is stirred several times. The finished infusion is diluted 3-5 times and the peppers are watered under the root, spending 0.5 liters per adult plant.

Iodine has the ability to increase the yield of sweet peppers and makes the fruits tastier. A vial of iodine tincture, which is sold in a pharmacy, is dissolved in a bucket of water. Plants are sprayed with a solution at the time of fruit set.

Yeast infusion or dry bread is a complex fertilizer, containing all the basic elements needed by pepper. To prepare the infusion, 10 g of dry yeast or 1 kg of crackers is poured into a bucket of warm water and infused for 2 days in a warm place. To speed up fermentation, you can add a little sugar or old jam to the container. The finished infusion is diluted twice with water and poured under the plants.

Bring great benefits to pepper milk serum. It not only nourishes the plant, but also protects against many diseases. A glass of whey is dissolved in 5 liters of water and the plants on which the crop is ripening are sprayed.

After planting pepper seedlings, plants need to be given time to adapt to a new place. The inevitable damage to the roots during transplantation will not allow the pepper to fully absorb the nutrients. Plants return to normal 12-15 days after transplantation.

2 weeks after planting

At this time, peppers are still actively growing and preparing for flowering. For plants, a complete set of elements is used: nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.

1. Pepper is watered with an infusion of chicken manure or the soil is mulched with humus. From mineral fertilizers use ammonium nitrate (40 g per 10 liters of water) or urea.
2. Phosphorus and potassium will give the plant wood ash or superphosphate and potassium sulfate.

You can use the finished composition for feeding bell peppers during this period of time.

During flowering and ovary formation

At this time, peppers can be watered. herbal infusion or grain fertilizer. This will give the plant the nutrition it needs.

To prevent buds and ovaries from falling off, use powder boric acid by dissolving 10 g in a bucket of water. Plantings are sprayed with the solution.

The preparations "Ovary", "Bud" will help the abundant formation of the ovary. It is useful to spray the plants with a preparation containing trace elements.

During the fruiting period

Fruit growth takes a lot of energy from plants, so peppers are fed every 2 weeks. Use these fertilizers, alternating them:

• herbal infusion or bread fertilizer;
• superphosphate 30 g and potassium sulfate 20 g per 10 liters of water;
• potassium humate 1 g per 10 liters of water (solution consumption 1 liter per plant).

Feeding pepper during fruiting - video

Additional top dressing

Use of crushed eggshell for introduction into the soil under peppers, serves good source calcium for plants.

At the time of fruit pouring experienced gardeners spray plants with whey to feed and protect against fungal infections. For the same purpose, tincture of iodine is used.

To carry out top dressing as efficiently as possible, it is recommended to do a soil analysis in the greenhouse. The analysis will give an idea of ​​what type of soil the soil in the greenhouse belongs to and what elements it lacks.

The appearance of plants may indicate a lack of some element:

• yellowing of foliage indicates a lack of nitrogen;
• too violent development of greenery indicates an excess of organic matter;
• reddening of the leaves - peppers lack trace elements.

Healthy plants have bright green foliage, with well-developed even leaf blades.

Water for dissolving fertilizers is taken settled or rainwater, with a temperature of +25-30 degrees.

It is necessary to store mineral fertilizers in a hermetically sealed container, in a dark and dry, cool place.

The best dressings for sweet peppers and application periods - video

Pour this pepper for rapid growth and increased yield - video

Regular fertilizing allows the plant to form a crop that exceeds its capabilities. A balanced feeding of peppers will not harm the plants and will not be deposited in the fruit with nitrates.

Culture is demanding on the environment, timely implementation of agricultural measures.

Full care for bell pepper in a greenhouse from planting to harvest will allow the plant to get everything it needs for growth and development, which will positively affect the number, size, and quality of fruits.

It is important to know how to properly care for it, since even a small mistake can cause the death of a bush.

Benefits of greenhouse cultivation

Bulgarian pepper is a culture of southern latitudes that does not tolerate cold, temperature changes, drafts and other adverse conditions. Creating and maintaining an optimal environment for plant growth and development significantly reduces the risk of bush death or poor harvest. The likelihood of infection or damage by pests is also reduced.

Planting and caring for sweet peppers in a greenhouse has advantages over open ground:

• the possibility of early planting seedlings;
• reduction of the growing season;
• providing a favorable microclimate;
• protection from wind, hail, dew, rain;
• facilitating basic care;
• increase in productivity;
• reduction in material costs.

microclimate requirements

Proper cultivation and care of peppers in a greenhouse will allow you to get a large crop of large fruits while creating a favorable environment. Particular attention should be paid to lighting, temperature and relative humidity, ventilation.

It is important to plant seedlings in nutrient soil, to ensure timely and sufficient watering, top dressing, to form bushes at certain stages of development.

Drafts, sudden changes in temperature, lack or excess of moisture should not be allowed. You should choose the right neighbors and predecessors if upper layer the ground does not change.

illumination

It is necessary to grow pepper in a greenhouse while providing 12-hour daylight hours. Lack of light will lead to stretching of seedlings, stunting of an adult plant, a weak ovary, excess - to a slowdown in the formation of buds. In cloudy weather, you need to organize the backlight with a wide range of lamps, suitable for sodium, mercury, metal halide.

The culture does not tolerate shade well, which should be considered when choosing neighbors in the beds. For the same reason, peppers should not be planted too closely or neglected in the bush formation procedure that is necessary when growing in a greenhouse.

Temperature regime

Indicators change depending on the stage of vegetation optimum temperature. From sowing to the appearance of the first shoots, provide +25-30 °C, 6-7 days after sprouting +13-16 °C during the day, +10 °C at night. At further cultivation favorable indicators + 20-27 ° C in daytime, +13 °C at night. For laying fruits, + 25-30 ° C is optimal.

The critical temperature for seedlings will be + 5-6 ° C, for adult bushes -1 ° C. At temperatures above +30 ° C, the ovaries fall off, the pollen becomes sterile, which negatively affects the yield. With a heating system in a polycarbonate greenhouse, you can maintain the desired temperature throughout the year. When film coating, focus on weather conditions.

Humidity level

At the seedling stage during the growth period and before planting, the optimal air humidity is 60%, soil - 70-75%. When transferring pepper seedlings to a permanent place of cultivation, the air must be moistened by 80%, the soil - by 90%. Until the end of the growing season, maintain 65% and 80%, respectively. The lack of moisture will lead to shedding of flowers, a decrease in the size of the fruit. Excess will cause decay, the development of fungal infections.

Preparing for planting seedlings

Every year, the design needs to be prepared for spring work. The main part can be done in the fall, and before planting the seedlings in the greenhouse, it remains to create a favorable microclimate. Regardless of the materials from which the building is made, and the crops growing in it, the main activities are:

• cleaning from plant residues;
• Creation warm beds;
• washing, disinfection of the frame;
• topsoil preparation.

The main thing is that before spring planting building was clean. Part of the work can be carried out immediately before the transfer of seedlings.

In autumn, wash the greenhouse with soapy water. Carefully inspect the joints for mold or bacterial plaque. After processing, ventilate and dry.

Disinfection

For disinfection of polycarbonate buildings, spraying, sprinkling or fumigation with preparations is used. complex action. Processing is carried out after preliminary washing of all structural elements and cleaning the soil from plant residues. Metallic profile enough to wash with a solution of potassium permanganate. wooden details impregnate with building antiseptics, coat with lime sediment.

Wash glass and polycarbonate shields from the outside with household chemicals, inside with a solution of potassium permanganate or a composition containing chlorine. Carry out work in special clothing and gloves. Remove inventory and containers from the greenhouse during processing. Before entering, it is recommended to lay a rug soaked in copper sulfate, ammonium nitrate, chlorinated lime.

Smoke bombs for fumigation are considered the most effective, but expensive way. You can replace them with metal baking sheets on hot coals, in which pieces of sulfur are placed (50-80 g per 1 m3). Spraying is carried out with a solution of bleach, blue vitriol or chloropicrin. Sprinkle with slaked lime.

Soil preparation

To equip warm beds, disinfect the soil, remove the top layer of soil. For disinfection, pour boiling water or a solution of potassium permanganate. Put a thick layer of straw and sawdust or compost on the bottom, then manure. Pour previously removed earth from above, cover with a dark film or mulch with dry grass and leaves. In winter, cover with snow, removing the film, if any.

In the spring, dig up the soil, improve the clay structure by adding sand. A day before planting seedlings, apply fertilizer - for 1 m² you will need 25 g of saltpeter, 1 tbsp. superphosphate, 1 tbsp. wood ash, humus. In the case of an acidic environment, neutralization will be required. Apply liming in autumn or add spring dolomite flour. Before transferring seedlings, loosen the ground, form holes, and water.

seedling planting technology

Changing growing conditions is difficult for bell pepper, so it is necessary to smooth this process as much as possible. 2 weeks before the procedure, seedlings need to start hardening off. Young seedlings should gradually get used to the sunlight.

The implementation of the main agrotechnical measures will accelerate the process of adaptation. Prepare the soil in advance, nutrient soil is needed during this period.

The main thing to consider when planting seedlings in a greenhouse made of polycarbonate or other material:

• permissible neighbors in the beds;
• the term for the transfer to a permanent place of cultivation;
• scheme and landing rules.

Compatibility with other cultures

It is allowed to plant nightshades (peppers, eggplants, tomatoes) together due to similar microclimate requirements. The danger lies in the fact that they have the same diseases and pests, if measures are not taken in time, then all plantings will suffer. Neighborhood with onions, basil, carrots, coriander, green manure is acceptable.

You can not have beans, fennel, kohlrabi nearby. Hot peppers it is undesirable to plant next to each other, as they can pollinate with each other. Incompatible crops, if necessary, are allowed to be distributed at different ends of the greenhouse.

Planting dates for seedlings

There is no exact date, you should focus on weather conditions, the time of sowing and emergence of seedlings, the formation of 8-12 leaves with buds, the type of construction. In the Moscow region, Moscow, the middle lane, planting is carried out in late April-early May. In St. Petersburg, the optimal time for the transfer of seedlings is the end of May. If the greenhouse is equipped with heating, it is possible earlier.

In the Urals and Siberia, one should be guided by the end of May-beginning of June. Cultivation of peppers in regions with adverse weather conditions in film greenhouses should be carried out after the threat of frost has passed. The soil should warm up above +10 °C. The plant is 25-30 cm high, has 2 inflorescences.

Landing pattern

Pepper seedlings should be planted in accordance with the recommendations for each variety. For undersized varieties, make holes at a distance of 25-30 cm from each other, for tall ones, the planting distance is 35-40 cm. Leave 60-70 cm between rows.

plant pepper better evening, in cloudy weather. Do not destroy the earth ball, carefully transfer the seedlings by transshipment to prepared holes in a greenhouse or greenhouse. Do not deepen too much, culture has root collar, so plant at the same level as the pepper grew before. Preliminary preparation seedlings consists in abundant watering the day before, the first 3-5 days after transplantation cannot be moistened. Culture slowly adapts to new conditions.

Features of the formation of a bush

The greenhouse environment is an indication for the mandatory procedure. Thickening will negatively affect yields, is fraught with the development of diseases, slowing down development.

It is important to properly shape the bushes so as not to reduce the ability to bear fruit and the rate of fruit ripening.

Bulgarian pepper growing in a greenhouse should:

• pinch;
• form;
• tie up.

Carrying out procedures depends on the variety, often they are needed for the entire growing season. Pay special attention to plants whose shoots are very fragile. Agrotechnical measures carried out in time contribute to the direction of the forces of the plant and nutrient juices to the formation, growth and ripening of fruits.

Formation and pinching

First of all, the crown bud is broken. The only exception is the need to obtain seed material, then it should be left, allowed to fully ripen and cut to extract the seeds. Caring for sweet peppers in a polycarbonate greenhouse necessarily includes shaping and pinching, as the plants grow taller, the fruits form larger.

The culture is formed in 2-3 stems. To do this, to the point of branching of the main shoots (at least up to 15-20 cm), it is required to break off all the leaves and twigs. Next, break out all unnecessary stepchildren, especially weak ones growing inside the bush. When pinching, excess shoots, flowers, leaves are removed. It is recommended to leave 15-25 ovaries on one bush, then large fruits are grown. When removing the shoot, you need to leave 1 leaf, because the ovary located under it feeds on it.

Pinch the main stems several times during the growing season. When the fruits go into a state of technical ripeness, cut off the leaves on this pepper trunk. Remove them for the last time no later than 1.5 months before the end of the harvest. The same terms for the final pinching of skeletal branches. You can’t remove all the leaves at once, the plant may die, you need to cut no more than 2-3 pieces at a time.

Tying up

When preparing the greenhouse, it is required to install trellises and stretch the wire at a height of 2 m. Using ribbons or twine attached to it, tie the bushes. For undersized varieties you can install a support next to each plant. Carry out the garter of sweet pepper in the greenhouse carefully, trying not to damage the twig. Make a loose loop of twine, as for eggplant, wrap the stem at the bottom. Tie the rest of the shoots around a few more times during the season.

Subtleties of care

It is possible to increase the yield of pepper in a greenhouse, if it is grown correctly, follow all agrotechnical recommendations. A favorable microclimate will greatly facilitate care, but for a demanding culture it must be constantly maintained. Some nuances may be associated with varietal affiliation, therefore, when buying seed material, you should read the description.

Ventilate the greenhouse every day, avoiding drafts. Plantings are regularly reviewed for signs of ill health, nutrient deficiencies, severe thickening.

The culture is pollinated independently, but a slight shaking of the bushes favorably affects the formation of fruits.

You need to take care of sweet pepper in a greenhouse, observing:

• watering mode;
• carrying out dressings;
• loosening;
• mulching;
• bush formation;
• prevention of diseases and pests;
• maintaining an optimal microclimate.

Watering mode

The most important measure for caring for bell pepper in a greenhouse is to provide it with moisture. The first 3-5 days after planting the seedlings do not water. Then you need to use only settled warm water, since plants can die from cold. The procedure is carried out in the morning, if necessary, repeat in the evening. It is optimal to water 1 time in 2 days. During flowering and fruiting, reduce the frequency to 2 times a week.

Water consumption per 1 bush - 0.5-1 l. When using a hose, keep the pressure low so that the roots do not become bare. Culture responds better than others to drip irrigation.

Top dressing mode

Growing sweet peppers in a greenhouse involves the regular introduction of organic and mineral additives. Organics are necessary for the formation of green mass. It is forbidden to use fresh manure, you can make humus or compost. Bird droppings make the environment acidic, therefore it is also undesirable for peppers, but it is permissible to use it in a 1:20 dilution. Feeding with infusions of herbs has proven itself well. From mineral fertilizers, preference is given to complex ones, designed specifically for this crop.

The first time to feed the plants 2 weeks after transfer to the greenhouse. The reference point is the young leaves that form after the seedlings take root in a new place. Get good harvest You can, fertilizing every 14 days after that. Carrying out foliar dressings, especially when symptoms of a lack of any nutrient appear.

Loosening and mulching

Cultivation of pepper in a greenhouse requires the removal of a dense earthen crust that forms after watering. Air access is necessary for the root system, otherwise the bush may die. Mulching is carried out in order to facilitate care, since it eliminates the need for loosening, prevents the growth of weeds, and retains water in the soil.

You can mulch the soil with straw, husk sunflower seeds, compost or sawdust.

Diseases and pests

When growing bell peppers in a greenhouse, regularly check the bushes for signs of infection or insect infestation. The most dangerous:

• mosaic;
• bacterial cancer;
• white rot;
• fusarium;
• greenhouse whitefly;
• spider mite;
• wireworm;
• slugs.

Plant protection is provided by prevention. When symptoms of ill health appear, immediate action is required using approved biological products and alternative methods. Sick bushes should be immediately removed from the beds and destroyed, since the infection will spread quickly through the greenhouse, not only pepper, but also neighboring crops, primarily nightshade, can suffer.

How to speed up the ripening of peppers in a greenhouse

All agrotechnical measures can be divided into careful maintenance and incentive measures. The first will avoid delaying the formation and ripening of fruits. The second in an unheated greenhouse will add 2 weeks to the end of the fruiting period, contribute to accelerated maturation. Peppers ripen in a heated building all year round.

You can get a harvest faster if you provide:

• regular loosening of the soil to a depth of 5-7 cm;
• foliar top dressing with infusion of ash;
• collection of fruits that have reached technical maturity;
• pinching the crown bud, pinching the shoots below the fruit;
• sufficient lighting and temperature.

Harvesting

The fruiting of greenhouse-grown peppers continues until the onset of stable cold weather. In heated structures, you can harvest all year round. Early-ripening varieties ripen in 90 days, late-ripening - in 130 days. It is recommended to remove the fruits when they reach technical maturity - normal size, but the color is not characteristic of the variety. Carefully cut the vegetable with scissors along with the stalk. Unripe peppers can lie up to 2 months and reach biological ripeness.

The shelf life of such fruits is longer, they are convenient to transport. With physiological ripeness, the crop will not be stored for a long time, therefore it requires processing.

Bulgarian pepper in the greenhouse gives high yield. When grown in closed ground it is easier to create a favorable microclimate. It is important to pinch plants in time, leaving no more than 2-3 stems.

Summer weather is unpredictable, so the greenhouse has become a common sight on suburban area- it is easier for vegetables to create comfortable conditions in it. The choice of tall, productive varieties of pepper allows intensive use of the area and a stable harvest.

Latino F1

An early ripe hybrid, the fruits of technical ripeness reach 100-110 days from germination. The hybrid is super-yielding, up to 16 kg of fruits are harvested from a square meter. The shape of the fruit is cuboid, the walls are thick (1 cm), the size is 12 × 12 cm. When ripe, the fruits are red.

Actor

Tall variety, bushes (1.5 m) need support, branches are tied up several times during the season. The fruits are thick-walled, cone-shaped, with a rounded tip, red when ripe. An average-sized fruit weighs 300 g. The yield of one bush is about 4 kg, about 14 large fruits.

Valuable qualities of the variety: disease resistance, universal purpose, resistance to temperature extremes, excellent taste.

Montero

High yielding, early maturing variety. large fruits will please with taste, juiciness, wall thickness of 9 mm. The average fruit weight is from 260 g, for record specimens - 900 g. The bushes need support, they are high - 1.20 m and above. The yield is decent - 16 kg per square meter.

Red Bull F1

Large hybrid. The length of the cylindrical fruits is 20 cm, the average weight is 250 g. The record fruits can weigh about 400 g. The juicy pulp is thick (10 mm), fragrant. The color of ripe fruit is red. The purpose of the variety is universal (freezing, salads, canning, for stuffing). 9 kg of fruits are harvested from a square meter, the ripening period is in the range of 110-125 days.

Valuable qualities of the hybrid: long-term storage, stable immunity to the tobacco mosaic virus, forms ovaries in low light, pods collected at the stage of technical ripeness quickly ripen.

Claudio F1

A promising hybrid of the Dutch selection. The bushes are medium in height, sprawling, upright. The size of the fruit is large, weight is from 100 to 200 g, the shape is prismatic, the wall thickness is 6-8 mm. The color of ripe pods is red, ripen early (80 days). The pulp is fragrant, juicy. Declared yield 300c/ha, marketable yield 94%.

Valuable qualities of the hybrid: it tolerates heat well, is resistant to TMV, lying, transportable. The hybrid loves heat and regular top dressing. It responds to good care with a worthy harvest.

Gypsy F1

A hybrid from Holland from Seminis. The main advantage of the hybrid is early ripening, technical ripeness occurs 60 days after transplanting into the greenhouse. Bushes are low (50 cm), but require support. The fruits are not large, weighing 120 g, conical, red. The pulp is without bitterness, sweet, with a pronounced peppery aroma. Walls 5-6 mm thick, chambers from 3 to 4. The size of the fruit is ideal for stuffing.

Valuable qualities of the hybrid: good taste, the same size of pods, keeping quality, transportability, high yield - 4.2 kg per square meter.

orange wonder

Excellent large-fruited variety, early (95-110 days). The bushes are powerful, high 80-100 cm, with good care can grow up to 1.1 m, require a mandatory garter. The variety has an enviable yield of 7-14 kg per square meter. The fruits are orange, large, fragrant.

Up to 8 fruits weighing from 200 to 250 g are removed from one bush. The walls are of average thickness from 5 to 10 mm, the thickness depends on the quality of care. The shape of the fruit is cuboid.

The variety is valued for its high yield, good taste, long storage period, safety during transportation.

Star of the East F1

A series of hybrids Star of the East chocolate, golden, red. It makes no sense to list all the colors - there are many of them. The hybrid Star of the East chocolate enjoys special love for summer residents. The fruits are large, weighing up to 350 g, the original dark brown color.

The yield is high - 8 kg per square meter. The average ripening period is 110 days. The shape of the fruit is prismatic, thickness 10 mm. Spreading type bushes, about 70 cm high.

Everything you need to know about seedlings and planting

Growing seedlings for a greenhouse

Seedlings are planted in an unheated greenhouse at the end of May ( middle lane), in a greenhouse with heating - from mid-April. More exact dates depend on the weather. Seeds begin to sow for seedlings in February, finish in mid-March. The age of the seedlings before planting in the greenhouse: 50 days when growing without a pick, 60 days - with a pick.

For seedlings you will need:

• a transparent plastic container with a lid;
• priming;
• containers with a diameter of 4 cm;
• daylight lamp with a power of 60 watts.

Take purchased soil, for reliability, buy two types from different manufacturers, mix in a ratio of 50:50, pour into a container with a layer of 7 cm. Pour the substrate warm water with potassium permanganate and leave for 12 hours in a warm place.

It is important to illuminate the seedlings throughout February and March for 12 hours - from 7 am to 7 pm. The distance from the lamp to the seedlings is no more than 15 cm. After 19 hours, close the seedlings from the light, as the culture needs a short daylight hours.

Sow seeds in increments of 2 cm in a row, 4 cm between rows, sprinkle with soil (1 cm), sprinkle the surface with water from a sprayer. Close the container, open in the morning and in the evening for ventilation.

best temperature for seed germination 28° C, seeds germinate after 7 days. Seedlings dive into separate pots in the phase of 3 leaves (do not take into account cotyledon leaves).

How to choose strong seedlings

Not all summer residents are engaged in growing seedlings. It is important to know how to choose healthy seedlings in the market (in the store). First of all, we estimate the height of the plant. The growth of healthy seedlings at the age of 50-60 days is 25-30 cm. By this time, there should be from 7 to 12 leaves on the bush.

Overgrown seedlings take root more difficult, later come into bearing. The brownish color of the roots is a sign of overexposed seedlings.

The dark green color of the leaves without signs of pests, the buds that are tied, speak of healthy, hardened seedlings, ready for transplanting into the greenhouse.

Preparing seedlings for planting

During transplantation, the plant is under stress. Proper preparation seedlings helps to reduce it. Hardening seedlings - key moment, it starts two weeks before planting in the greenhouse. Seedlings begin to take out during the day. The first days for a short period of time from 20 to 30 minutes, by the end of the second week - for the whole day.

The day before planting, water the seedlings and be sure to treat them with a growth stimulator, anyone will do: Energen, Epin, Narcissus-V. Processing will not only reduce transplant stress, but also increase plant immunity and protect against diseases.

Preparing the soil in the greenhouse

In autumn, the preparation of the greenhouse begins. First, the plant debris accumulated over the summer is removed, then they begin the laborious process of preparing the soil:

• a layer of earth 5-10 cm is removed and taken out of the greenhouse;
• the soil is dug up on the bayonet of a shovel;
• a solution is being prepared Bordeaux mixture(1.5 g is enough for 1 liter), dug up soil is poured with a solution;
• new soil is brought into the greenhouse, enriched with humus (10 kg per sq. M), compost, river sand, rotted sawdust;
• lime is added to acidic (pH below 5.5) soil at the rate of 300 g/sq. m, the soil in the greenhouse is deeply dug up;
• in winter, cover the soil in the greenhouse with snow.

In the spring, as soon as the soil in the greenhouse thaws, continue the preparation. Dig up the soil again, while adding a glass of ash per unit area, 2 tbsp. l phosphate fertilizer (superphosphate), 1 tbsp. l potassium (potassium sulfate). 10-14 days before planting, water the soil with Fitosporin-M solution.

Planting seedlings of pepper

Planting scheme - the number of plants per square meter is determined based on the variety. Tall varieties - up to 5 roots per square meter, undersized ones can be planted on the same area up to 8 pieces. It is not necessary to deepen and spud the bushes.

Deepening and hilling not only will not benefit young plant, they will significantly slow down its development.

It is imperative to remove the first few buds (2-3) from seedlings, while young seedlings will switch to root formation.

Pepper cultivation technology

The technology of growing crops in a greenhouse differs from the technology of open ground. Additional efforts will be required to create a microclimate.

Required microclimate

The microclimate is the temperature of the soil and air, their humidity, the level of illumination and its duration, the composition of the air and its movement. Required conditions it is easier to create if the greenhouse is installed correctly: at a distance from tall buildings and fences, oriented from north to south, equipped with a sufficient number of vents.

Light regime for peppers in the greenhouse

Pepper is very fond of light. During the entire growing season, he needs 12 hours of lighting, longer lighting is not needed, as it slows down the formation of buds. In cloudy weather, adjust the level with the help of artificial lighting. Lamps should have a wide spectrum.

Photosynthesis requires blue light, red light for growth and flowering, and yellow light for chlorophyll production. It is worth buying lamps with a reflector.

Types of lamps for greenhouses:

• metal halide;
• mercury;
• sodium.

Watering and fertilizing peppers in a greenhouse

The plant is negatively affected by excess and lack of moisture in the soil. Soil moisture around 85% is optimal. Provide it with frequent but moderate watering. The first month after transplantation, seedlings need 4 liters per square meter. m. As the volume of water per unit area increases.

The main thing in watering is regularity. Irregular watering during the formation of fruits leads to their deformation, cracking.

Water in the morning strictly under the root. So that a crust does not form on the soil, loosen it after each watering. You can use mulch - a layer of dry grass (5 cm) or dark spunbond retain moisture, prevent the formation of a crust.

It takes 10-14 days to adapt the seedlings after transplantation, at this time the seedlings should not be disturbed with unnecessary care. In the daytime, plantings should be shaded from the bright sun with white covering material.

Plants for growth, flowering, fruit set need potassium, phosphorus, nitrogen and a number of other trace elements.

At the end of the second week, carry out the first feeding. At this time it is better to use organic fertilizer made from cow dung. An infusion is prepared in a large container, 10 parts of water are added to 1 part of manure. After 3-5 days, the fertilizer is ready. 1 liter is enough for one watering can.

You can use mineral fertilizers instead of manure. Prepare a solution for feeding immediately before use, for 10 liters of water you need:

• 20 g of ammonium nitrate;
• 40 g of superphosphate;
• 30 g of potassium sulfate.

Feed the plants a second time in two weeks. Prepare an infusion of herbs, add the whole complex of mineral fertilizers to it. The third time is when the first fruits are formed.

Bushes should be inspected several times a week, according to appearance determine what elements are missing and make up for the deficit in a timely manner. For example, with a lack of potassium, leaves curl, a lack of phosphorus says purple the bottom of the sheet. The gray shade of the leaves is a signal of a lack of nitrogen.

With a deficiency of one or another element, foliar top dressing should be carried out.

Temperature, humidity and ventilation

It is necessary to know the critical air temperatures at which normal development is disturbed. Plants stop producing fruit if daytime temperatures are 16°C or lower. High temperatures of 30°C and above prevent normal pollination, and flower shedding can be observed.

For peppers, the optimum daily air temperature is 25°C, soil - from 18 to 22°C.

To maintain a certain air temperature in the greenhouse, automatic ventilation systems are mounted. The controller allows you to adjust the air temperature: if necessary, turns on the fans, opens the windows.

Ventilation helps to reduce air temperature. When organizing ventilation, it must be remembered that this culture does not tolerate drafts, so you need to open doors and vents on one side.

In the heat, plants protect from the sun's rays. different ways: cover the upper part of the greenhouse with lime, hang a thin covering material from the ceiling or garden net.

Bush formation

Healthy seedlings quickly move away from the stress received during transplantation and are actively growing. The formation of a bush helps to direct all the forces of the plant to flowering and fruiting.

Here are the rules to follow when forming a bush:

• remove all leaves up to the first fork;
• pinch the crown bud in the first branch;
• leave 2-3 shoots growing from the first branch - they will form the skeleton of the bush;
• branches of the first order will branch, forming branches of the second order, leaving strong shoots;
• remove all stepchildren.

Pinching the shoot, leave one leaf. The leaf will feed the ovary below.

On the bush you need to leave from 15 to 25 ovaries. Rationing the harvest, get the fruits big size. About a month before the end of the growing season, you can pinch all the tops. By removing growth points, all plant resources are concentrated on the formation and ripening of fruits.

Harvesting

Here are the rules to follow when harvesting peppers in a greenhouse:

1. Fruits that have reached technical ripeness should be collected at least once every 7 days.
2. Cut the pods with the stalk, use tools: scissors, secateurs.
3. The pods plucked at the stage of biological ripeness are sent for processing, they are not stored for a long time.

Ripe fruits should be stored at a temperature of 1 ° C, maintaining an optimum humidity of 90%. If at the same time the fruits are shifted with layers of paper, they will easily retain their presentation for 2 months.

Fruits plucked at technical maturity ripen within a month at a temperature of 10 ° C, at a higher temperature ripening occurs earlier.

Diseases and pests

Consider the diseases and pests that you have to deal with when growing peppers in a greenhouse. Most often, greenhouse peppers suffer from the tobacco mosaic virus. You can lose up to 30% of the crop. Often planting peppers in a greenhouse suffer from bacterial cancer: the fruits become stained, the leaves lose their natural color, fall off.

Damage to the crop is caused by outbreaks of gray rot of fruits. The plants themselves remain alive, the quality of the fruits suffers, they become covered with weeping spots. Closer to autumn, signs of alternariosis may appear on the bushes: black spots on the leaves, black mold on the fruits.

Bushes affected by the mosaic are destroyed, the soil is shed with a fungicide solution.

At the first appearance of other diseases, emergency measures are taken:

1. remove damaged fruits and parts of the plant;
2. chalk is added to the fungicide solution, the affected areas are coated with the resulting suspension;
3. spraying plantings with copper sulphate.

Of pests greenhouse pepper it is worth noting aphids and spider mites. During fruiting chemical treatments undesirable, so it is worth fighting aphids in the early stages with simple folk methods.

Dilute in warm water laundry soap, add an infusion of wood ash. Wash the leaves and stems of the pepper with this composition. After a few days, repeat the treatment, aphids may reappear from eggs laid by adults.

Most often, the spider mite attacks plants in the heat; it multiplies well with increased dryness of the air.

With a large number of ticks, use drugs:

• Actellik;
• Akarin;
• Apollo.

Growing vegetables in a greenhouse is no more difficult than growing them outdoors. Healthy seedlings, competent care, disease prevention, pest control - the minimum that is needed to obtain decent harvest peppers in the greenhouse.